Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

40d:Noble

2008-10-18T16:03:43Z

Thatguyyaknow:

[[Noble]]s are [[dwarf|dwarves]] that have special duties in addition to or instead of the duties of normal dwarves. Some nobles also have various privileges that normal dwarves do not, and will demand certain accommodations, like a [[Room#Room_grades|better office]].

Settings specific to each noble can be set on the [[Nobles_Screen|Nobles & Administrators Screen]], accessible via the {{key|n}} key.

== Appointments ==

These are nobles you can appoint through the Nobles & Administrators Screen.

* [[Expedition leader]]: Listens to the complaints of other dwarves to make them happier. Uses [[social skills]]. Needs an [[office]] in order to meet with outpost [[liaison]]s. It is not possible to reassign this post – at least while the original holder of the title remains alive. Your initial expedition leader is chosen based on managerial skills. You will find that your broker is often 'volunteered' for this job by the other dwarves. Note that if there is no obvious candidate for Expedition Leader, it is chosen randomly. Additionally, if your Expedition Leader is slain and you do not choose a new one, a random dwarf will be volunteered for the job after about half a season.
** [[Mayor]]: Promoted from expedition leader at 50 dwarves. Unlike the expedition leader, he requires decent housing and will make [[mandate]]s. The dwarf who acts as mayor is replaced by election every couple of years, but can also be re-elected.

* [[Outpost broker]]: Utilizes the [[appraiser]] skill and [[social skills]]. Is the person you send to the [[depot]] to do your [[trading]]. Lets you see the imported/exported wealth of your fortress.
** Changes name according to the status of your [[fortress]].

* [[Manager]]: Utilizes the [[organizer]] skill. Allows the use of item build queues through the {{K|j}}obs -> {{K|m}}anager screen. Will need an office to do this (validating work orders) once your fortress has twenty dwarves.
** Changes name according to the status of your [[fortress]].

* [[Bookkeeper]]: Utilizes the [[record keeper]] skill. Lets you see the stocks of your fortress. Needs to do occasional jobs in an office of their own if you want precise stock keeping: otherwise, stock numbers will only be precise to one significant figure (e.g., 7163 -> 7000, 7823 -> 8000).
** Upgrades to [[treasurer]] at 100,000 fortress wealth.
** Further upgrades to [[grand treasurer]] at 200,000 fortress wealth.
** Further upgrades to [[hoardmaster]] at 300,000 fortress wealth.

* [[Sheriff]]: You may choose a dwarf to become the Sheriff after your fortress reaches a population of 20.
** [[Captain of the guard]]: Promoted from the sheriff once you reach 50 dwarves, along with the [[mayor]]. Activates [[fortress guard]].

There is substantial overlap between the expedition leader and the outpost broker's skills, so you may wish to assign them as the same person if you have time for one dwarf to both meet with traders and meet with the outpost liaison. The same office can be used to take stock and to conduct meetings, saving on real estate and decorating costs in the early game.

== Immigrant Nobles ==

These nobles appear in [[immigration]] waves and cannot be appointed by the player.

* [[Dungeon master]]: Trains and cares for [[animals]] and performs miscellaneous metalsmithing tasks.
* [[Philosopher]]: Has no labor options turned on, but has no requirements and makes no mandates.
* [[Baron|Baron(ess)]]
** Upgrades to [[Count|Count(ess)]] at 110. {{verify}}
** Upgrade to [[Duke/Duchess]] at 140.
* [[Baron Consort|Baron(ess) Consort]]: Arrives with the [[Baron|Baron(ess)]].
** Upgrades to [[Count Consort]] at 110. {{verify}}
** Upgrade to [[Duke/Duchess Consort]] at 140.
* [[King]]/Queen: Ruler of your parent [[civilization]] and upgrades your fort to Mountainhome
* [[King Consort]]: Occasionally same gender as the King, although this has been fixed in the dev log.
* [[Advisor]]: Arrives with the King's entourage.
* [[Hammerer]]: He will enforce the law with his mighty [[hammer]].
* [[Tax collector]] : Activates [[dwarven economy]]. {{verify}}

== Room Requirements Summary ==

The nobles require various rooms assigned to them. As a quick reference, here is a summary of those rooms:

{| border="1"
!Noble!!Quarters!!Dining Room!!Office!!Tomb
|- align="center"

!Advisor
|Great Bedroom||Great Dining Room||Throne Room||None
|- align="center"

!Baron(ess)
|Decent Bedroom||Decent Dining Room||Decent Office||Tomb
|- align="center"

!Baron(ess)'s consort
|Decent Bedroom||Decent Dining Room||—||Tomb
|- align="center"

!Bookkeeper
|—||—||Meager Office||—

|- align="center"
!Captain of the guard
|Quarters||Dining Room||Office||—

|- align="center"
!Count
|Great Bedroom||Great Dining Room||Throne Room||Mausoleum

|- align="center"
!Count consort
|Great Bedroom||Great Dining Room||—||Mausoleum

|- align="center"
!Duke
|Grand Bedroom||Grand Dining Room||Opulent Throne Room||Grand Mausoleum

|- align="center"
!Duke Consort
|Grand Bedroom||Grand Dining Room||—||Grand Mausoleum

|- align="center"
!Dungeon Master
|Quarters||Dining Room||Office||Burial Chamber

|- align="center"
!Hammerer
|Quarters||Dining Room||—||—

|- align="center"
!King
|Royal Bedroom||Royal Dining Room||Royal Throne Room||Royal Mausoleum

|- align="center"
!King Consort
|Royal Quarters||Royal Dining Room||-||Royal Mausoleum

|- align="center"
!Manager
|—||—||Meager Office||—

|- align="center"
!Mayor
|Decent Quarters||Decent Dining Room||Decent Office||—

|- align="center"
!Broker
|—||—||Meager Office||—

|- align="center"
!Sheriff
|Modest Quarters||Modest Dining Room||Modest Office||—

|- align="center"
!Tax Collector
|Modest Quarters||Modest Dining Room||Office||—
|}

== Meager Offices ==
The easiest way to give dwarves a meager office is simply to assign them a single seat in your communal dinning room.
[[Category:Nobles]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2008-09-16T21:24:33Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Wrestling */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that fated your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

If you start out with a high [[weapon]] [[skill]] (except [[bow]]s and [[crossbow]]s) and also an above novice [[armor]] and/or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] [[skill]], you'll start out with [[armor]] and/or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] as well.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mayor's house. You will see the Mayor (purple) and probably several [[drunks]]. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the drunks and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid. Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' travel a considerable distance before allowing you to travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
Fighting is extremely detailed in adventure mode! This adds a lot of fun in the battle, since there are so many ways to injure your opponents/victims.

=== Ranged ===
If you have a [[weapon | bow]] or [[weapon | crossbow]], you can shoot [[arrow]]s or [[bolt]]s at enemies. You can also throw anything you can carry at enemies. Ranged attacks are highly efficient when you hit.
To fire your bow or crossbow, press {{key|f}}, and move the marker to the enemy you wish to fire upon, and press {{key|Enter}}. Same with throwing stuff, only press {{key|t}} and choose which item to throw, then choose the victim.
''Note: Throwing is slightly bugged, but in a good and fun way. You can throw captured flies, socks and even [[vomit]] if you want, with lethal effects. (Sand piercing lungs, flies piercing hearts etc..)''

=== Close combat ===
To fight a [[creature]] by hitting it, you just need to walk towards the [[creature]]. Alternatively, you can press {{key|A}} and choose your target. After you've pressed {{key|A}} and are given the list of targets to attack, you can use {{key|Enter}} to choose between a normal attack and [[wrestling]] before selecting which opponent you wish to target.
A normal attack will make the adventurer hit the target with whatever [[weapon]] he holds. If he is holding no [[weapon]], he will bash with his [[Armor# Shields and Bucklers|shield]]. If he has neither a weapon nor a [[Armor# Shields and Bucklers|shield]], he will either punch his target or grab a random appendage.
In [[wrestling]], you must spend a few rounds locking the target's limbs to be able to break and splinter them (good times). Alternately, you could try gouging, pinching, or strangling them instead.

=== Wounds ===
Your adventurer will get [[Wound|wounded]] by enemies or falling (jumping) off cliffs. The best (and only?) way to heal, is to press {{key|T}}, and travel at least 1 tile in any direction. Your adventurer will be fully healed then, unless your character has wounds to the neck or head. For more information, see [[Wound]].

== Tips for survival ==
Dying is easy in adventurer mode, especially if you've just started out. Following these simple tips will increase your chance to survive, and reach those nice stats and legendary [[skills]]! These tips are for the faint of heart only. If you like the challenges of the game, feel free to do the opposite of what these tips say.

=== Basic Needs ===
Your adventurer gets hungry, thirsty, and drowsy. Make sure your [[waterskin]] is always filled (fresh [[water]] at the [[Temple|temples]]); you carry 1-2 stacks[5] of [[food]]; and get some sleep sooner or later.

Fresh [[water]] can be found sometimes at [[Temple|temples]] and always in [[River|rivers]]. [[Water]] from [[Murky pool|pools]] is not considered fresh [[water]].

In order to obtain [[water]], you need a [[waterskin]]. Unless you are an [[elf]], you will start with a full one at the beginning of the game, but you can also buy additional ones in the [[Site|towns]].

Move right next to the [[water]] source and press {{k|I}} (capital 'i', that is) to interact in a complex manner with an item. You will be shown your [[inventory]]. Select your [[waterskin]] by pressing the letter shown to its left. If the [[inventory]] is so long that the [[waterskin]] is not shown, you may need to press {{k|/}} or {{k|*}} on the number pad to move through the pages. If you have done everything correctly, the game should offer you one or more options from which specific tile you wish to draw the [[water]]. Simply select one choice by pressing the letter to its left and the remaining free space in the [[waterskin]] will be filled with [[water]].

Note that you can not refill [[Waterskin|waterskins]] that are inside of [[Backpack|backpacks]]. You need to {{k|r}}emove it from the [[backpack]] first. Also note that you can't put [[Waterskin|waterskins]] you are holding directly into the [[backpack]] (it is not accepted as a container for that purpose). First, {{k|d}}rop the [[waterskin]] and then {{k|g}}et it again. It should be put inside the [[backpack]] automatically.

Solid food will eventually rot away. However, if you move on the travel map, you will not consume any food or water. Only if you stay on a [[Site map]] for a longer time will you first feel thirst and later hunger. A normal random [[encounter]] usually never last long enough to even generate thirst. Searching a [[quest]] [[cave]] can take longer (they are quite winding), but usually, you will not go beyond thirst if you only want to find the [[quest]] monster and kill it. Thus, carrying large stocks of food is not recommended, unless you plan something that will take a lot of time.

(''Warning:'' NEVER, EVER sleep in a hostile place, next thing you know you will be cloven asunder by your own sword, or some nasty critters will be feasting upon you)

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some members to your party, you will not only gain extra damage output. You will also have someone else to take the damage instead of you!

When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks. They are found in human towns inside the [[tavern]] with the [[Mayor]] (the building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill wrestling and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

=== Avoid the impossible ===
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

==== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ====
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although i eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And i was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them i threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) i grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

==== Arrows ====
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

=== Training yourself ===
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with pebbles, pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

''Alternate way'' : It could be difficult to repeat the {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} sequence without making mistake. So you can just alternate {{k|t}}-{{k|enter}} quickly : The first {{k|t}} will open the inventory, the second will chose the rock which is in "t" position, and {{k|enter}} will throw it. In the same fashion, when collecting rock, prefer a tile where the rock is on "b" position : If you quickly alternate {{k|g}} and {{k|a}}, sometime you will open the [a]nnouncement panel, wich will slow you down.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable - train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot, and breaking that legendary swordsmans sword hand at the begging of the fight will make him laughably weak. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferrably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alive.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

Alternatively, wait until nightfall, and wrestle a sleeping enemy. Sleeping enemies are unconscious, and cannot detect you if you sneak. The autocombat will cause your adventurer to break limbs, grab and release bits of clothing, and other nonlethal attacks. Occasionally random chance will cause a chokehold; simply step back a tile and then resume. In this manner, you can train wrestling extremely quickly without the dangers of wandering in an undead zone.

Yet another alternative is presented by fish. No harmful wrestling moves can be performed on them so cornering a carp, tigerfish, or milkfish will raise wrestling quickly, while training swimming. Avoid hippopotamus infested waters.

A final option presents itself when exploring caves, there are many weak enemies to be found here, choose one (say a ratman) and walk up to it, grabbing it perform a takedown. Before it can stand up grab its arm and try to break it, as soon as it gets up perform another takedown, continue to break all the joints in both of your <s>toy's</s> <s>victim's</s> opponent's arms and then move on to legs, finaly gouge out its eyes and begin strangling it to death. This gives you plenty of wrestling exp with very little risk as the enemy will only get in one or two strikes before being taken down after which it will prioritise standing back up.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

Another option is to find a body of water with a ramp into it. Walk down the ramp into the water, which will cause you to start "drowning". However, you can simply walk back out after 10 turns or so to stop drowning, and you will have gained some swimming skill. Repeat until you reach novice skill. If you don't have an abandoned fortress set up for this, slopes into water can be found at ocean beaches.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below.

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

==== Armor and Shield Use ====

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor - a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

=== Summary ===
*Recruit some living spear-catchers
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs/sand at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster
[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Maximizing framerate

2008-05-16T18:00:28Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Laptop computers */

Dwarf Fortress is an extremely CPU-intensive application that currently requires a fast, modern machine ([[System_requirements|recommendations]]). The objective of this page is to help you reduce game lag, a crippling problem for many players.

Please mark all advice with the most recent game version it is known to work for. This game is under rapid development, Toady One clearly intends to reduce lag where possible, and so methods that worked in, say, v0.27.169.33g may not a few months later.

== Advice for v0.27.176.38c ==

=== World size ===
Reducing the generated world size will make a large improvement in speed on computers with low physical memory. The world itself is generated faster, smaller, and it will take less time to save and load.
* When starting the game pick the "Design New World With Parameters" option.
* Select medium or smaller by using the arrow keys.
* Generate the new world.
* Start a new game in the smaller world.
Smaller is not always better. If you make your world too small then there will be nothing interesting on it. So try medium first before going smaller. Pocket dimensions are generated extremely quickly but are mostly just for testing mods.

== Advice for v0.27.169.33b-g ==

=== OpenGL ===
* If framerate is extremely slow with an otherwise CPU-friendly fortress and a decent machine, your graphic card's interaction with the OpenGL code used by the game may be at fault. Updating your drivers usually works; you may also have to adjust some settings in your graphic card's control software, such as turning vertical synchronization off.

=== Game options ===
In the folder "\data\init" is a file named "init.txt". Edits to this file can greatly increase game speed. Keep backups for safety and to save yourself having to re-enter values every time you upgrade.

* [SOUND:OFF]: Slightly increases speed. Cost is lack of sounds.
* [FPS:YES], [FPS_CAP:100]: Handy indicator of how fast your game is running.
* [G_FPS_CAP:15]: Controls refresh rate. Lower values often boost speed dramatically ... at the cost of less frequent visual updates, which can pose a problem during battles.
* [VSYNC:OFF]: Attempting to synchronize refreshes can kill game speed for some players (depending on your OS, graphics card, and OpenGL settings).
* [PRIORITY:HIGH]: This option automatically makes the game run in high priority. This will probably prevent your computer from effectively running anything at the same time as the game and, for some players, causes major lag in the DF interface as well. Still worth a try, though. [PRIORITY:REALTIME] devotes even more resources to Dwarf Fortress, but has been known to cause stuttering gameplay. Increasing priority will make the game difficult to kill using task manager if it locks up.
** This happens because things like screen output and HD access are not entirely part of DF. Further, a dual-core machine can use realtime priority without fear of consequences, at least so long as DF is single-threaded.
* [TEMPERATURE:NO]: Turning off temperature greatly increases speed. It also kills off some rather nice lava warming effects, stops rivers from freezing and (importantly!) thawing, makes glacial maps less interesting, and prevents sudden deaths from exposure. You're well-advised to stick with "warm" or "hot" fortress sites if you turn temperature off and your source of water is a stream.
* [WEATHER:NO]: Turning off weather increases speed noticeably.
* [CAVEINS:NO]: Turning off cave-ins increases speed only fractionally.
* [POPULATION_CAP:40]: Keep your population under control to prevent the game bogging down. Pathfinding for numerous dwarves can bring even a fast machine to its knees.

=== Fortress site ===
* Moving fluids are the major source of lag in most maps at game start. Magma and (to a lesser extent) running water are CPU hogs in the current version. If you haven't got the hardware to run DF with a magma site, suck it up and go without. Gigantic major rivers lower the framerate significantly. Aquifers (until tapped) and stagnant pools seem not to cause major speed issues.
* Avoid elevation extremes. The fewer the z-levels, the faster the game runs.
* Minimize map size. Smaller maps get you substantially more speed.
* Avoid caves, towns, ruins, or anything populated. Everything in them invokes the pathfinding code frequently.

=== Fortress layout and gameplay ===
* Narrow paths and bottlenecks cause the pathfinding algorithm to repeatedly recompute a faster route for each dwarf (and pet) as the paths empty and clear. Use large hallways and multiple stairways to connect any two spots where lots of dwarves will want to be.
* Keep wandering pets and wild animals to a minimum and cage livestock. The AI for all of these has become more efficient of late and each one costs much less CPU time than a dwarf, but sheer numbers matter.
* Avoid designating very large areas for chopping, gathering, detailing, or mining, especially if many dwarves do these things.
* Some observers suspect that having massive numbers of objects in stockpiles also impacts FPS; others believe any effect is minor{{verify}}.

=== Cheating ===
* Fully revealed areas are faster than hidden ones. Running reveal.exe will make the game faster.

=== Non-factors ===
The following things ''don't'' have a significant effect on game speed, at least as tested.

* Fullscreen or windowed (if OpenGL settings are compatible with the game)
* Use of graphics, choice of graphics tileset
* Size of tiles
* Number of z-levels mined out (fortress pathfinding complexity matters; mere distance up and down doesn't)

== Advice for v0.27.169.33a ==
* Upgrade.

== Advice for earlier versions ==
* If framerate is always slow at startup, your graphic card's interaction with the OpenGL code used by the game is likely to be at fault. Turning off vertical synchronization and updating your drivers usually works.
* Put animals in cages. Never keep them behind locked doors and reduce wandering pets to a reasonable number.
* Do not specify huge areas for mining or (especially) detailing.
* Open up \data\init\init.txt. Turn off TEMPERATURE and WEATHER and reduce POPULATION_CAP.

== Hardware- and OS-specific Advice ==

=== Dual Processors ===
* Go into task manager and set the affinity of Dwarf Fortress to one processor, and then set all the programs that use significant resources to the other. If Dwarf Fortress ever utilizes more than one processor, this will of course become irrelevant; currently, however, very few programs do and the best use of a dual processor is to give DF its own processor.
* Vista's START command can be used to set affinity at run-time with the AFFINITY switch.

=== Laptop computers ===
* Frame rate is higher when running off mains power. This is because laptops reduce CPU performance to extend the battery life.
* You can disable that feature in MS Windows, at the expense of the battery running out much more quickly.
* Some laptops may overheat if you run Dwarf fortress for too long, keep you laptop cool if you find that after a while FPS suddenly drops.

===Dual monitors===
* Display DF entirely on one screen (no overlap to the second screen whatsoever).

==See also==
*[[System requirements]]

[[Category:Guides]]
{{Game_Interface FAQ}}

40d:Water

2008-04-27T09:48:16Z

Thatguyyaknow: Started tidying up this page into an article rather than a collection of facts, still needs more work.

'''Water''' is a fluid found all over the world. It [[flow]]s from mountain springs, forming the world's [[ocean]]s, [[lake]]s, [[river]]s, and [[brook]]s. Water falls as [[rain]] and [[snow]], and freezes into [[ice]]. Water is home to [[aquatic creatures]]. Most creatures can [[Swimmer|swim]] in deep water, and like all fluids, air-breathing creatures can [[Swimmer#Drowning|drown]] in it. Water comes in two varieties: '''freshwater''', which makes up almost all inland water, and '''saltwater''', which fills the seas; these are home to different aquatic creatures. If dwarves do not drink they will become dehydrated(thirsty) and if they do not quench that thirst then they will eventually die. Injured dwarves will only drink freshwater, though normally dwarves prefer their [[Alcohol|booze]].

In addition, water can be ''stagnant'' or ''[[Murky pool|murky]]''. This may cause dwarves to have unhappy [[thought]]s if they drink from it.

When water comes into contact with creatures and objects, they become "[[Contaminant|contaminated]]" with it. [[Soil]] and [[stone]] becomes [[damp]] or [[mud]]dy, which can be used for [[Agriculture|farming]].

Water is displayed with the symbols {{Tile|≈|#008|#999}} and {{Tile|~|#008|#999}}, sometimes with different blues, brown, and white to show ripples, [[pollutant]]s and [[flow]]. (The game can be [[Technical_tricks#The_look_of_the_game|configured]] to show the depth instead). Dark-colored water symbols indicate the water is one [[Z-level]] below the camera level. Water has 7 depth levels per tile, with 1 being perhaps ankle-deep, and 7 filling the tile completely. [[Dwarf|Dwarves]] and other [[humanoid]]s can walk through water up to depth 4. At 4 they can choose to walk or swim, any deeper and they must swim to pass through the tile.

Every material sinks in water.{{version|0.27.176.38c}}

The [[Map tile|tiles]] above [[brook]]s are treated as [[floor]] tiles. They are passable to creatures, and objects do not fall into them.

==Water Flows==
Water above a depth of 1 will tend to flow towards any adjacent tiles, and can move diagonally, the depth will spread out evenly so a tile of 7/7 water will become seven 1/7 tiles, or if there are only two it can expand to it will become two 2/7 and a third 3/7 though the 3/7 will move around. Water can be stopped by most solid tiles, including [[floodgate]]s, [[wall]]s, [[door]]s, [[hatch]]es, and [[building]]s. Exceptions are [[grate]]s and [[bars]] which are specifically designed to allow liquids through. [[Waterfall]]s occur when water has the opportunity to fall through open space. Waterfalls will continue falling straight down until hitting either [[floor]] or another body of water.

== Water in Fortress Mode ==

In addition to drinking, pools and rivers can be used for [[fishing]]. To specify a pool of water as a water source, fishing zone, or [[pond]], you need to create [[activity zone]]s at the level above the water. The "level above the water" is the level at which the surface of the water is at foot-level instead of ceiling level. Water can be [[bridge]]d, and can also be used to make a [[moat]].

Water can be moved by [[digging]] channels or tunnels, using [[bucket]]s, or by constructing a [[screw pump]]. Dwarves will use buckets to fill a [[pond]]. [[Screw pump]]s (operated by dwarf or [[Power| machine power]]) can move water vertically and horizontally. Transferring water down channels/holes to lower levels can be hazardous due to [[water pressure]].

[[Cave lake|Lakes]] can be drained by digging into the side of them. Rivers can also be redirected in this manner. It is only possible to dig directly up into a water-filled tile using stairs. Fish and other aquatic creatures will stay in the water as it moves, but may end up on the ground if the water becomes too shallow. Drained lakes that are [[outside]] are filled by melting ice and snow, but not by rain.

Tiles adjacent to a water-filled tile are labeled "damp" and flash the water symbol when accessing the {{k|d}}esignations menu. When a miner discovers a damp tile, he cancels the mining designation, the game pauses, and the camera centers on the tile. This happens for every damp tile discovered, and each must be designated again before a miner will dig it out.{{version|0.27.176.38c}} Digging under a water-filled tile does not actually drain it, even though you receive multiple warnings about damp tiles. If a tile already appears to be damp when it is designated, no warning will be given.

Somebody who falls into water, for example, a [[kobold]] thief, will then have a "water covering" on nearly every part of their anatomy. This is listed under {{k|v}},{{k|i}}nventory and is shown in green.

[[Water wheel]]s can be used to generate mechanical power from flows.

The water in a tile can be destroyed by closing a [[floodgate]] or [[door]] on it (via a [[lever]]), by lowering a [[bridge]] onto it, or by [[evaporation]]. Thus water mass is not conserved and it is possible to run out of water on maps without an infinite source(such as an [[ocean]] or [[aquifer]]). It is also possible to get rid of excess water by letting it flow into a [[river]].

==See also==
[[Water depth]]

[[category:Map_tiles]]
[[Category:Physics]]

40d:Chasm

2008-03-12T19:12:53Z

Thatguyyaknow: Removed bone supply, if you can prove it feel free to re add

Chasms appear similarly to rivers, but are not visible on the Local/Region/World maps. They are similar to the DFv0.23 chasms except that they are not guaranteed, seem to use the same river-generation code for the fortress map (a "chasm tributary" has been observed), and are bottomless.

A chasm may be open to the top of the mountain, or it can be hidden underground until discovered by a [[miner]].

Chasms are much more common on named [[mountain]]s and [[volcano]]es, along with other special features such as [[cave river]]s.

The presence of Extreme Cliffs (20+) on the Local Map may be, but is not necessarily, indicative of a chasm.

Chasms can also appear in a rounded shape, as below:

[[Image:chasm.PNG]]

== Uses ==
These uses are meant to be used with the lowermost level of the chasm. (Where you can see no lower)

=== Platform-chasming ===
A technique of building a platform over the chasm, and then severing the platform from the wall, can permanently dispose of garbage or excess stone set on top. The severed platform will disappear into the darkness below, and never be seen ever again.

=== Garbage dump ===
It is possible to chasm refuse as it was in earlier versions. Designate a garbage dump [[activity zone]] over the chasm and adjacent walkable tile. Monsters may also spring from the chasm, and were provoked by the chasming of refuse in previous versions. It is unknown if these events still occur. Given that this technique still works, you can dump anything in your fortress by selecting {{key|k}} and marking items for {{key|d}}umping. Also you can use [[standing orders]] to dump particular types of [[refuse]].
Dwarves may cancel the dump task due to creatures in the chasm below, even if those creatures can't reach them {{version|0.27.169.33f}}

== Hazards ==

Dwarves fighting near the edges of cliffs have a propensity to dodge right off the precipice, falling to their deaths.

The chasm is also home to many types of hostile creatures, including [[iron man|iron men]], [[troglodyte]]s, [[giant cave swallow]]s, [[antman|antmen]], [[giant cave spider]]s, [[ratman|ratmen]], and [[batmen|batmen]].

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

40d:Metal

2008-02-29T22:23:42Z

Thatguyyaknow:

'''Metal''' is a [[material]] extracted from [[ore]] at a [[smelter]]. It is then sometimes combined with other materials to form an '''alloy''' metal. An alloy usually improves on the properties of its components to give more uses and [[Item value|value]]. The metal [[bar]]s resulting from the [[smelting]] are used to make items such as [[weapon]]s, [[armor]], and [[furniture]] at a [[Metalsmith's forge|forge]].

==Alloys==
Many metals can be mixed together to create alloys, in a few cases these alloys will result in an overall increase in value or the resultant alloy will be more powerfull for use in weapons or armour. However a large number of alloys result in no overall increase in wealth. The main use of these alloys is to allow you to dilute down any valuble metals you import.

== List of metals ==

"Reaction" indicates the recipe for an alloy metal; this does not include the [[fuel]] used in their creation.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Metal
! Colors
! Value
! Density
! Weapon/Armor
! Other uses
! Reaction
|-
![[Copper]]
|{{Tile|*|#808000|#800000}}||2||8.93||66%/66%||Ranged weapons, ammo, picks
|-
![[Nickel]]
|{{Tile|*|#c0c0c0|#008080}}||2||8.80
|-
![[Zinc]]
|{{Tile|*|#c0c0c0|#008080}}||2||7.13
|-
![[Tin]]
|{{Tile|*|#c0c0c0|#008080}}||2||7.28
|-
![[Lead]]
|{{Tile|*|#808080|#c0c0c0}}||2||11.34
|-
![[Bismuth]]
|{{Tile|*|#f0f|#800080}}||2||9.78||||Only used to make Bismuth Bronze
|-
![[Nickel silver]]
|{{Tile|*|#fff|#c0c0c0}}||3||8.65||||||Nickel x2 + Copper + Zinc
|-
![[Lay pewter]]
|{{Tile|*|#008080|#c0c0c0}}||3||7.28||||||Tin x2 + Copper + Lead
|-
![[Trifle pewter]]
|{{Tile|*|#c0c0c0|#008080}}||4||7.28||||||Tin x2 + Copper
|-
![[Fine pewter]]
|{{Tile|*|#fff|#c0c0c0}}||5||7.28||||||Tin x3 + Copper
|-
![[Bronze]]
|{{Tile|*|#808000|#800000}}||5||8.25||75%/75%||Ranged weapons, ammo, picks||Tin + Copper
|-
![[Billon]]
|{{Tile|*|#c0c0c0|#008080}}||6||8.93||||||Copper + Silver
|-
![[Bismuth bronze]]
|{{Tile|*|#ff0|#808000}}||6||8.25||75%/75%||Ranged weapons, ammo, picks||Tin + Copper x2 + Bismuth
|-
![[Brass]]
|{{Tile|*|#ff0|#808000}}||7||8.55||||||Zinc + Copper
|-
![[Sterling silver]]
|{{Tile|*|#fff|#c0c0c0}}||8||10.49||||||Silver x3 + Copper
|-
![[Pig iron]]
|{{Tile|*|#808080|#c0c0c0}}||10||7.85||||Only used to make steel||Iron + [[Flux]] stone
|-
![[Iron]]
|{{Tile|*|#808080|#c0c0c0}}||10||7.85||100%/100%||Ranged weapons, ammo, picks, anvils
|-
![[Silver]]
|{{Tile|*|#fff|#c0c0c0}}||10||10.49||50%/-||
|-
![[Black bronze]]
|{{Tile|*|#800080|#808000}}||11||8.93||||||Copper x2 + Silver + Gold
|-
![[Electrum]]
|{{Tile|*|#ff0|#808000}}||20||8.65||||||Silver + Gold
|-
![[Rose gold]]
|{{Tile|*|#f0f|#800080}}||23||19.32||||||Gold x3 + Copper
|-
![[Steel]]
|{{Tile|*|#808080|#c0c0c0}}||30||7.85||133%/133%||Ranged weapons, ammo, picks, anvils||Iron + Pig iron + Flux stone + Coal
|-
![[Gold]]
|{{Tile|*|#ff0|#808000}}||30||19.32
|-
![[Aluminum]]
|{{Tile|*|#fff|#c0c0c0}}||40||2.70
|-
![[Platinum]]
|{{Tile|*|#fff|#c0c0c0}}||40||21.40
|-
![[Adamantine]]
|{{Tile|*|#0ff|#008080}}||300||0.200||500%/500%||Everything except beds
|}

''(Silver has a 50% armor multiplier, but can't be used to make armor)'' 

== Raw file ==

This is for reference until the metal articles are written. Then, it will be deleted.

<pre>matgloss_metal

[OBJECT:MATGLOSS]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:IRON]
[NAME:iron][ADJ:iron][COLOR:0:7:1]
[VALUE:10]
[SPEC_HEAT:450]
[MELTING_POINT:12768]
[BOILING_POINT:15150]
[WEAPON][WEAPON_RANGED][AMMO][DIGGER][ARMOR][ANVIL]
[DAMAGE_PERC:100]
[BLOCK_PERC:100]
[SOLID_DENSITY:7850]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:GOLD]
[NAME:gold][ADJ:golden][COLOR:6:6:1]
[VALUE:30]
[SPEC_HEAT:129]
[MELTING_POINT:11915]
[BOILING_POINT:15141]
[SOLID_DENSITY:19320]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:SILVER]
[NAME:silver][ADJ:silver][COLOR:7:7:1]
[VALUE:10]
[SPEC_HEAT:230]
[MELTING_POINT:11731]
[BOILING_POINT:13892]
[WEAPON][AMMO]
[SOLID_DENSITY:10490]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:COPPER]
[NAME:copper][ADJ:copper][COLOR:6:4:0]
[VALUE:2]
[SPEC_HEAT:385]
[MELTING_POINT:11952]
[BOILING_POINT:14611]
[WEAPON][WEAPON_RANGED][AMMO][DIGGER][ARMOR]
[DAMAGE_PERC:66]
[BLOCK_PERC:66]
[SOLID_DENSITY:8930]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:NICKEL]
[NAME:nickel][ADJ:nickel][COLOR:7:3:0]
[VALUE:2]
[SPEC_HEAT:444]
[MELTING_POINT:12619]
[BOILING_POINT:15243]
[SOLID_DENSITY:8800]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:ZINC]
[NAME:zinc][ADJ:zinc][COLOR:7:3:0]
[VALUE:2]
[SPEC_HEAT:390]
[MELTING_POINT:10755]
[BOILING_POINT:11633]
[SOLID_DENSITY:7135]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:BRONZE]
[NAME:bronze][ADJ:bronze][COLOR:6:4:0]
[VALUE:5]
[SPEC_HEAT:435]
[MELTING_POINT:11868]
[BOILING_POINT:14140]
[WEAPON][WEAPON_RANGED][AMMO][DIGGER][ARMOR]
[DAMAGE_PERC:75]
[BLOCK_PERC:75]
[SOLID_DENSITY:8250]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:BRASS]
[NAME:brass][ADJ:brass][COLOR:6:6:1]
[VALUE:7]
[SPEC_HEAT:377]
[MELTING_POINT:11656]
[BOILING_POINT:14068]
[SOLID_DENSITY:8550]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:STEEL]
[NAME:steel][ADJ:steel][COLOR:0:7:1]
[VALUE:30]
[SPEC_HEAT:500]
[MELTING_POINT:12718]
[BOILING_POINT:14968]
[WEAPON][WEAPON_RANGED][AMMO][DIGGER][ARMOR][ANVIL]
[DAMAGE_PERC:133]
[BLOCK_PERC:133]
[SOLID_DENSITY:7850]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:PIG_IRON]
[NAME:pig iron][ADJ:pig iron][COLOR:0:7:1]
[VALUE:10]
[SPEC_HEAT:500]
[MELTING_POINT:12106]
[BOILING_POINT:13968]
[BRITTLE]
[SOLID_DENSITY:7850]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:PLATINUM]
[NAME:platinum][ADJ:platinum][COLOR:7:7:1]
[VALUE:40]
[SPEC_HEAT:130]
[MELTING_POINT:13182]
[BOILING_POINT:16885]
[SOLID_DENSITY:21400]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:ELECTRUM]
[NAME:electrum][ADJ:electrum][COLOR:6:6:1]
[VALUE:20]
[SPEC_HEAT:180]
[MELTING_POINT:11828]
[BOILING_POINT:14968]
[SOLID_DENSITY:8650]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:TIN]
[NAME:tin][ADJ:tin][COLOR:7:3:0]
[VALUE:2]
[SPEC_HEAT:210]
[MELTING_POINT:10417]
[BOILING_POINT:14684]
[SOLID_DENSITY:7280]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:PEWTER_FINE]
[NAME:fine pewter][ADJ:fine pewter][COLOR:7:7:1]
[VALUE:5]
[SPEC_HEAT:210]
[MELTING_POINT:10417]
[BOILING_POINT:14684]
[SOLID_DENSITY:7280]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:PEWTER_TRIFLE]
[NAME:trifle pewter][ADJ:trifle pewter][COLOR:7:3:0]
[VALUE:4]
[SPEC_HEAT:210]
[MELTING_POINT:10417]
[BOILING_POINT:14684]
[SOLID_DENSITY:7280]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:PEWTER_LAY]
[NAME:lay pewter][ADJ:lay pewter][COLOR:3:7:0]
[VALUE:3]
[SPEC_HEAT:210]
[MELTING_POINT:10417]
[BOILING_POINT:14684]
[SOLID_DENSITY:7280]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:LEAD]
[NAME:lead][ADJ:lead][COLOR:0:7:1]
[VALUE:2]
[SPEC_HEAT:130]
[MELTING_POINT:10589]
[BOILING_POINT:13148]
[SOLID_DENSITY:11340]

[MATGLOSS_METAL:ALUMINUM]
[NAME:aluminum][ADJ:aluminum][COLOR:7:7:1]
[VALUE:40]
[SPEC_HEAT:900]
[MELTING_POINT:11188]
[BOILING_POINT:14534]
[SOLID_DENSITY:2700]

temperature values unknown, used nickel
[MATGLOSS_METAL:NICKEL_SILVER]
[NAME:nickel silver][ADJ:nickel silver][COLOR:7:7:1]
[VALUE:3]
[SPEC_HEAT:444]
[MELTING_POINT:12619]
[BOILING_POINT:15243]
[SOLID_DENSITY:8650]

temperature values unknown, used copper
[MATGLOSS_METAL:BILLON]
[NAME:billon][ADJ:billon][COLOR:7:3:0]
[VALUE:6]
[SPEC_HEAT:385]
[MELTING_POINT:11952]
[BOILING_POINT:14611]
[SOLID_DENSITY:8930] used copper

temperature values unknown, used silver
value is weighted average of 3 silver and 1 copper
[MATGLOSS_METAL:STERLING_SILVER]
[NAME:sterling silver][ADJ:sterling silver][COLOR:7:7:1]
[VALUE:8]
[SPEC_HEAT:230]
[MELTING_POINT:11731]
[BOILING_POINT:13892]
[SOLID_DENSITY:10490] used silver

temperature values unknown, used copper
also called shakudo or hepatizon depending on the proportions
(some have no silver)
got the name from black corinthian bronze, though these proportions
are more like regular corinthian bronze/brass
I just wanted the liver-colored one, dropped "corinthian"
because it sounds too location/culture specific
value of 11 is the weighted average value of 2copper/1silver/1gold components
[MATGLOSS_METAL:BLACK_BRONZE]
[NAME:black bronze][ADJ:black bronze][COLOR:5:6:0]
[VALUE:11]
[SPEC_HEAT:385]
[MELTING_POINT:11952]
[BOILING_POINT:14611]
[SOLID_DENSITY:8930]

temperature values unknown, used gold
value is weighted average of 3 gold and 1 copper
[MATGLOSS_METAL:ROSE_GOLD]
[NAME:rose gold][ADJ:rose gold][COLOR:5:5:1]
[VALUE:23]
[SPEC_HEAT:129]
[MELTING_POINT:11915]
[BOILING_POINT:15141]
[SOLID_DENSITY:19320] used gold

bismuth itself is brittle, but you can alloy it with tin/copper to make a light-colored bronze
[MATGLOSS_METAL:BISMUTH]
[NAME:bismuth][ADJ:bismuth][COLOR:5:5:1]
[VALUE:2]
[SPEC_HEAT:123]
[MELTING_POINT:10488]
[BOILING_POINT:12815]
[BRITTLE]
[SOLID_DENSITY:9780]

you can make a lighter colored bronze by adding bismuth,
used temp values from bronze, used by incas, at least according to one source ha ha
[MATGLOSS_METAL:BISMUTH_BRONZE]
[NAME:bismuth bronze][ADJ:bismuth bronze][COLOR:6:6:1]
[VALUE:6]
[SPEC_HEAT:435]
[MELTING_POINT:11868]
[BOILING_POINT:14140]
[WEAPON][WEAPON_RANGED][AMMO][DIGGER][ARMOR]
[DAMAGE_PERC:75]
[BLOCK_PERC:75]
[SOLID_DENSITY:8250] used bronze

[MATGLOSS_METAL:ADAMANTINE]
[NAME:adamantine][ADJ:adamantine][COLOR:3:3:1]
[VALUE:300]
[SPEC_HEAT:7500]
[MELTING_POINT:25000]
[BOILING_POINT:50000]
[WEAPON][WEAPON_RANGED][AMMO][DIGGER][ARMOR][ANVIL][ANY_USE]
[WAFERS]
[DAMAGE_PERC:500]
[BLOCK_PERC:500]
[SOLID_DENSITY:200]
[DEEP]</pre>
[[Category:Metals]][[Category:Materials]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2008-02-04T22:17:22Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Throwing */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[elf]], [[dwarf]] or [[human]]) and start out in either a town of your race or in a previous fortress you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find caves, abandoned towers and other villages. You can even visit your old fortresses and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the creatures that fated your fortress.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in skills. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear human sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of skills. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a weapon, you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of skills, you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the skills in weapons/armor determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

If you start out with a high weapon skill (except bows and crossbows) and also an above novice armor and/or shield skill, you'll start out with armor and/or shield as well.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mayor's house. You will see the Mayor (purple) and probably several [[drunks]]. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the drunks and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid. Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some buildings. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring armor from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|p}}ut it on, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

== Travelling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a town or group of creatures on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off cliffs is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off cliffs, depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time covers your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a quest, you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the local map. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned fortresses, you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old fortresses, you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old fortresses might prove to be rewarding, since you can find armor and weapons you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your fortress would probably be any left behind artifact weapon or armor. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get artifact-quality weapons and armor.

Also remember to check out any engravings you made while in fortress mode. When checking out engravings in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
Fighting is extremely detailed in adventure mode! This adds alot of fun in the battle, since there are so many ways to injure your opponents/victims.

=== Ranged ===
If you have a [[weapon | bow]] or [[weapon | crossbow]], you can shoot arrows or bolts at enemies. You can also throw anything you can carry at enemies. Ranged attacks are highly efficient when you hit.
To fire your bow or crossbow, press {{key|f}}, and move the marker to the enemy you wish to fire upon, and press {{key|Enter}}. Same with throwing stuff, only press {{key|t}} and choose which item to throw, then choose the victim.
''Note: Throwing is slightly bugged, but in a good and fun way. You can throw captured flies, socks and even vomit if you want, with lethal effects. (Water piercing lungs, flies piercing hearts etc..)''

=== Close combat ===
To fight a creature by hitting it, you just need to walk towards the creature. Alternatively, you can press {{key|A}} and choose your target. After you've pressed {{key|A}} and are given the list of targets to attack, you can use {{key|Enter}} to choose between a normal attack and [[wrestling]] before selecting which opponent you wish to target.
A normal attack will make the adventurer hit the target with whatever weapon he holds. If he is holding no weapon, he will bash with his shield. If he has neither a weapon nor a shield, he will either punch his target or grab a random appendage.
In [[wrestling]], you must spend a few rounds locking the target's limbs to be able to break and splinter them (good times). Alternately, you could try gouging, pinching, or strangling them instead.

=== Wounds ===
Your adventurer will get wounded by enemies or falling (jumping) off cliffs. The best (and only?) way to heal, is to press {{key|T}}, and travel at least 1 tile in any direction. Your adventurer will be fully healed then, unless your character has wounds to the neck or head. Read more about wounds [[Wound|HERE]].

== Tips for survival ==
Dying is easy in adventurer mode, especially if you've just started out. Following these simple tips will increase your chance to survive, and reach those nice stats and legendary skills! These tips are for the faint of heart only. If you like the challenges of the game, feel free to do the opposite of what these tips say.

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some members to your party, you will not only gain extra damage output. You will also have someone else to take the damage instead of YOU!
When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks! They are found in human towns inside the tavern with the Mayor (The building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill wrestling and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that Giant you are supposed to kill.

To recruit someone into your party, press talk{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. Children, peasants, the Mayor and Guards don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

=== Avoid the impossible ===
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself is this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

==== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ====
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

==== Arrows ====
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

=== Training yourself ===
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps alot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit "l" and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. limestone) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with pebbles, pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. Iron men are fun, because they leave behind a nice statue for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and spears damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient. Sadly, that also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind.

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your wrestling? When you are alone with a unconscious creep, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Creeps are always going to try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or river you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. Standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

=== Summary ===
*Recruit some living spearcatchers
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Bars

2008-01-25T15:10:02Z

Thatguyyaknow:

'''''For metal bars see [[Metal]].'''''

Bars are essentially poles that block the movement of all but liquids and light. Meaning that while you can see through bars and let water or magma flow through them, no item or creature can pass. Bars can be both vertical and horizontal, that is they can be instead of walls or floors.

== Usage ==

Bars can be built from the Site a [[Building]] menu ( {{k|b}} ). The hotkey for vertical bars is {{k|B}} and for floor bars it's {{k|Alt}} + {{k|b}}. Floor bars can only built where there is no floor. To remove the floor of a tile, you dig a [[channel]]. Bars can only be built from metal(strangely ashes and coal count as metal was well) and take only one bar to be build. Currently Bars are identical in function to grates but distinctions will be made later[http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=001394]

==See also==
*[[Grate]]

[[Category:Furniture]]

40d:Copper

2008-01-20T19:17:31Z

Thatguyyaknow:

{{Metal|name=Copper|color=#880|bgcolor=#800|
|ore=
* [[Copper nuggets]]
* [[Malachite]]
* [[Tetrahedrite]]
|uses=
* Make [[bronze]] at [[smelter]]
* Make [[brass]] at [[smelter]]
* Make [[lay pewter]] at [[smelter]]
* Make [[fine pewter]] at [[smelter]]
* Make [[trifle pewter]] at [[smelter]]
* Make [[nickel silver]] at [[smelter]]
* Make [[billon]] at [[smelter]]
* Make [[sterling silver]] at [[smelter]]
* Make [[rose gold]] at [[smelter]]
* Make [[bismuth bronze]] at [[smelter]]
* [[Armor]]
* [[weapon|Melee Weapons]]
* [[Crossbow]]s
* [[Bolt]]s
* [[Pick]]s
* [[Metalsmith's forge|Metal crafting]]
|properties=
* [[armor|Block]]% 66
* [[Damage]]% 66
* [[Material value]] 2
}}

'''Copper''' is a [[metal]] used in a large number of alloys. It is also one of the least valuable of the metals. Weapons made out of it do mediocre damage (66%) compared to Iron; similarly, armors have mediocre defense (66%). It may be best to use copper to smelt more valuable alloys rather than making weapons and armors. Of course if you don't have wide access to better metals, copper is still a fine metal to use. Copper weapons are the next best training weapons if you dont have access to silver or trade with the elves.

Copper is smelted (at a [[Smelter]])from [[Copper Nuggets]], [[Malachite]], or [[Tetrahedrite]]

A common use of '''copper''' is minting at a [[metalsmith's forge]], creating [[coins]] which value is multiplied by 10{{verify}}. Minted copper coins are then either used in the [[economy]] system or used as a trade good when trading with [[caravan|caravans]].

'''Copper''' may be combined with other metals at a [[smelter]]. The following is a list of recipes involving copper:
*[[Nickel Silver]] = Copper + 2x [[Nickel]] + [[Zinc]]
*[[Bronze]] = Copper + [[Tin]]
*[[Lay Pewter]] = Copper + 2x [[Tin]] + [[Lead]]
*[[Trifle Pewter]] = Copper + 2x [[Tin]]
*[[Fine Pewter]] = Copper + 3x [[Tin]]
*[[Billon]] = Copper + [[Silver]]
*[[Bismuth Bronze]] = 2x Copper + [[Tin]] + [[Bismuth]]
*[[Sterling Silver]] = Copper + 3x [[Silver]]
*[[Black Bronze]] = 2x Copper + [[Silver]] + [[Gold]]
*[[Rose Gold]] = Copper + 3x [[Gold]]
[[Category:Metals]]

40d:Noble

2008-01-19T14:04:27Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Immigrant Nobles */

40d Talk:Losing

2008-01-19T13:57:34Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Starvation */

" if you dig a hole in a wall diagonally to a water source, water can come spurting out even without you receiving a warning about damp stone." Is this true anymore? The dev notes for today's version (November 1st) mentioned making squares touching water diagonally get the damp marker as well. --[[User:BahamutZERO|BahamutZERO]] 15:51, 1 November 2007 (EDT)

== 26 directions ==

26 directions? Really? I've been digging out tiles UNDER bodies of water trapped in rock, much less diagonal to them along the z-axis, and I haven't run into any flooding problems yet.--[[User:Xazak|Xazak]] 18:44, 3 November 2007 (EDT)

:If you dig a tunnel underneath a body of water, you retain the ceiling overhead. If you were to remove this ceiling (e.g. by digging a ramp of stairway upwards) then the water would certainly flow.

::It would, except digging a ramp doesn't remove the ceiling...in fact it's impossible to dig upwards into water. You can't designate anything on the water tile above, and nothing you do below removes the ceiling...I tried in vain, and was sorely dissapointed. 'Specially since Toady did it one of his movies. Let me know if you get it to work, though. --[[User:Turgid Bolk|Turgid Bolk]] 14:10, 6 November 2007 (EST)

:::Build an upward (or an up/down) staircase on a level below and designate a downward staircase on the level above. Downward staircase is essentially a modification of the floor (ceiling) into a hole with stairs. Water doesn't flow in 16 up/down+horizontal directions (doesn't flow up+horizontal under pressure). Be warned that digging directly below a lake or a river is safe despite "dump stone" warning but digging into stone directly below an aquafier is NOT safe.--[[User:Another|Another]] 02:35, 4 December 2007 (EST)

== Losing is fun ==
What would you say to moving the article to [[fun]] and making this one a redirect? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 18:29, 5 November 2007 (EST)

:That would be so funny! Don't know if it would gel with the rules, though. --[[User:Tarsier|Tarsier]] 19:53, 5 November 2007 (EST)

::Redirected fun to here. ;) --[[User:Turgid Bolk|Turgid Bolk]] 14:12, 6 November 2007 (EST)

== Starvation ==
According to the starvation section you can gather plants if you dont have soil to farm on, but as far as i know plants only grow above soil layers [[User:Thatguyyaknow|Thatguyyaknow]] 08:57, 19 January 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Losing

2008-01-19T13:54:48Z

Thatguyyaknow:

40d Talk:Dungeon master

2008-01-19T12:49:16Z

Thatguyyaknow:

Anyone know what triggers the dungeon master now? I have absolutely NO coins whatsoever and he just showed up at the start of my 4th spring. [[User:Rpb|Rpb]] 11:54, 8 November 2007 (EST)

Is there a point to the image? --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 01:38, 9 November 2007 (EST)

:I think it's there to show what skills the Dungeon Master starts with. Putting the same in plain text would work better, methinks. --[[User:Zirik|Zirik]] 03:08, 9 November 2007 (EST)

::My oppinion also. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 00:45, 10 November 2007 (EST)

He showed up here in summer 1055 with the 'normal'/standard skill level in those four skills mentioned in the article (Animal Trainer, Animal Caretaker, Furnace Operator, Metal Crafter). I've got no coins either. Created wealth was around 70k, around 60-70 dwarves. Maybe it's the number of pets? I have 123.--[[User:SL|SL]] 00:43, 11 November 2007 (EST)

:Probably not. I got him in 1054 with no more than 25 animals, and had passed 70k wealth long ago so that wasn't it either. Number of dwarves? 1054 would have been the first year after I hit 50 dwarves, which might be the case with yours as well. [[User:Rpb|Rpb]] 01:36, 11 November 2007 (EST)

:When I got him, I had 57 dwarves. The requirement is probably 50 dwarves, we all have that number in common. --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 10:19, 11 November 2007 (EST)

:I dont think the requirement is 50 dwarves, i have the dungeon master arrive when i was nearing the 80 Mark, and had a wealth of around 200k. --[[User:Fedaykin|Fedaykin]] 20:48, 15 November 2007 (EST)
::Were you nearing the 80 mark BEFORE or AFTER the migration when he showed up? A requirement of 50 dwarves to trigger him would mean you would probably have 70+ dwarves by the time he actually arrives, since he generally shows up at the same time as 20 other immigrants.
:::It was before the migration ofcourse, ill try it again when i have time [[User:Fedaykin|Fedaykin]] 14:44, 17 November 2007 (EST)
:My numbers were 68 dwarves (I went from 36 to 60+ in the last wave), roughly 2.7M in wealth (and I'd been over 1M for years) in year 1056 with a moderate number of pets and no coins. I'd also dug to the deepest level the first year, in case folks were considering that as a criterion. I have fought numerous slugmen, goblins and kobolds, but nothing exotic (I had to reload after the dragon arrived and burned everything down). Bear in mind that if there's a pop requirement, then it's important how many you have before the DM arrives, but it's equally important how many you had before the ''previous'' wave. Those numbers form the bounds. So if you had 80 before the DM arrived, but 31 of them arrived or were born in that last wave, then this will have been the first time the caravan saw you with 50+ pop. [[User:Doctorlucky|Doctorlucky]] 01:56, 20 November 2007 (EST)

I think his arrival might be related to your stored animals. He seems to arrive for me whenever I get my first goblin in a cage trap. [[User:Moonman|Moonman]] 09:04, 21 December 2007 (EST)
:I just had this happen again. My pop. went from 57 to 80 or so and it was the first wave after I had captured a dragon and some goblins. [[User:Moonman|Moonman]] 09:22, 24 December 2007 (EST)

I can confirm that he does NOT arrive simply at 50 dwarves. Just got an immigration wave that raised my pop from 52 to 60, and no DM.
--[[User:Tyrving|Tyrving]] 02:56, 22 December 2007 (EST)

How about using skill names that are shown in the game? For example armor crafting -> Armorsmith , weapon smithing -> Weaponsmith and so on. Its a bit confusing now with blacksmithing and all.

Have you considered that the DM has /a percentage based chance of arriving once you fortress reaches the population of 50?/ --[[User:Hamenopi|Hamenopi]] 07:13, 17 January 2008 (EST)

I had about 53 dwarves then an immigration wave took me up to 62 but it wasnt until the next wave which gave me 81 that I got him also in requirements says you need to discover hidden site feature, but i havent discovered anything yet. Imported wealth is 128245 Exported is 682 Created wealth is 429483 and on the off chance his arrival is related to animal numbers i have 5 trained and 21 others [[User:Thatguyyaknow|Thatguyyaknow]] 07:26, 19 January 2008 (EST) - I hadnt caught anything in a trap but i had nicked a cougar from the elves. Also I'd smithed a massive amount of gold and copper as well as some silver reckon it might be related to that? [[User:Thatguyyaknow|Thatguyyaknow]] 07:49, 19 January 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Dungeon master

2008-01-19T12:48:45Z

Thatguyyaknow:

40d Talk:Dungeon master

2008-01-19T12:26:32Z

Thatguyyaknow:

40d:Iron man

2007-12-12T12:01:02Z

Thatguyyaknow:

{{minorspoiler}}

The iron man can be found dwelling on maps with chasms or cave complexes. An iron man will never "give in to pain" like normal creatures. When you kill an iron man, he leaves behind a masterpiece iron statue for your taking. Like undead ironmen will ignore missing limbs and never bleed to death, normally found in caves around chasms the easiest method to kill them is dig down on the opposite side and have your marksdwarves take potshots.

{{Creatures}}
[[Category:Humanoids]]

40d:Kobold

2007-12-12T11:55:49Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Kobold Caves in Fortress Mode */ changed cr*p to junk, may as well keep it kinda clean

Kobolds are small humanoids, (slightly smaller than [[dwarves]]). They are technologically backward and use [[copper]] weapons.

Kobold thieves will raid you in [[fortress mode]], generally timing their attacks to coincide with the arrival of [[caravan]]s. They are able to bypass any and all [[trap]]s, and are an excellent reason to channel all traffic in an out of your fortress to a single location, which should be guarded at all times. Once discovered and caught, a kobold can generally be killed by any armed dwarf and even most unarmed civilians.

Kobold marksman parties may occasionally show up to ambush your dwarves outside. This is similar to an elf attack - the kobolds will hold back and kill all dwarves who venture near with their bows. This is not a siege. The kobolds will leave after some time. Because they are archers, these raiding parties can be quite dangerous to an unprepared fortress, especially one reliant on resources such as trees and surface water.

== Kobold Caves in Fortress Mode ==

Occasionally, on maps that have caves present in them, you'll find a Kobold Cave. These pose a possible hazard to your dwarven settlers, as - should they discover you and become irritated at your presence - they can attack your settlement and any wandering dwarves they come across. As mentioned previously, kobolds aren't very tough, but when they gather in large numbers (with more than a few armed kobold guards and other nasty variations of the common kobold thrown in) they can pose a significant threat to your young, underprepared fortress. On the up-side, in the vicinity of the kobold cave and inside the cave itself, you'll find all kinds of random trinkets and other items, with the possibility of valuable goodies being tossed in. If you manage to clear the kobold cave on your map, any potentially valuable junk that they've accumulated is yours for the taking.

== Kobold Caves in Adventure Mode ==

In adventure mode Kobolds live in caves. They will have guards, soldiers, civilians, children, and the occasional quite dangerous weaponmaster. Kobolds are deadly with a bow but generally an easy match in melee, even for a novice adventurer. Kobold caves are full of trinkets, and they often wear clothing, weapons, and small-sized armor.

{{creatures}}
[[Category:Races]]

40d:Aquifer

2007-12-12T11:51:37Z

Thatguyyaknow: Added list of rock layers can/cant - only included in cant layers which might be mistaken for can

An aquifer is a subterranean layer of water-bearing rock or soil. Attempts to mine through them will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with water, effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in loam, and sand, makes it difficult to find great quantities of stone in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

== Where they are found ==
Aquifers are found in soil layers and some porous rock layers.

Layers which CAN contain aquifers:
*[[sandy clay loam]]
*[[silty clay loam]]
*[[loam]]
*[[sandy loam]]
*[[silt loam]]
*[[loamy sand]]
*[[silt]]
*[[sand]]
*[[yellow sand]]
*[[white sand]]
*[[black sand]]
*[[red sand]]
*[[peat]]
*[[pelagic clay]]
*[[calcareous ooze]]
*[[siliceous ooze]]
*[[sandstone]]
*[[conglomerate]]

Layers which CAN'T contain aquifers
*[[clay]]
*[[silty clay]]
*[[sandy clay]]
*[[clay loam]]
*[[silt stone]]
*[[mudstone]]

== Dealing with aquifers ==

The challenges presented by an aquifer may be circumvented in several ways. Firstly, much more of your equipment will likely be made from wood, especially early on, so it may help to be in a heavily forested area. Once you've established your fortress a bit, you will also be able to trade for stone and metals if you run short.

It is also worth noting that it sometimes possible to find some amount of stone above the aquifer. It may help to create exploratory shafts searching for pockets of stone. Be aware that mining along the level immediately above the aquifer will result in patches of 'damp stone,' which will flood if mined out; these squares will flash with water when designating mining areas.

===The ore method===
On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a [[sedimentary layer]] such as [[sandstone]], it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of [[ore]] such as [[magnetite]]. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a [[Utilities|utility]] like reveal.exe.

===The magma method===
If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. The water from the aquifer is not pressurized and magma is chunky, so it is safe to dig channels in aquifer. Though you will have to re-dig a lot of channels due to an element of chance, you can create a pool of magma on the aquifer z-level, and then pinch the pool off from the supply of magma with water. When it cools (which you can hasten with more water) you can dig down through the middle of a 3x3 patch of obsidian without flooding. With larger starting patches, you can dig through multiple levels of aquifer.

===The pump method===
It is possible to pump the water out of an aquifer; though the supply is apparently unlimited it can be pumped out faster than the water seeps in, allowing for a fairly safe area on the z level. This method is somewhat dangerous since problems with your pumps can lead to drowning, however, it allows a larger area to be cleared than most methods and can be done anywhere. It's also easier to plan around a series of pumps than hoping you'll hit rock on the way down.
There is an example of how to get through an aquifer with pumps here: http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-120-aquifercmv

It is possible to expand this meathod to breach multiple z-levels. Just make sure your room on the next level down has a minimum of room allowed for this design. For areas larger than the design, break up the room into smaller areas (6x6 is reasonably workable) and pump them out one at a time from at least three sides (into another section when nessessary, you only need one dry at a time), and building walls on the outer edges. As you pump out additional sections, you can connect them, digging through the dividing dirt walls and building a wall between the two sections you've already built to complete the water-proofing. As a note, pumps can't pump if you build a wall in the space they're pumping from, which is why it is nessessary to either pump from all four sides, or to dig out the space to rewall.

===The ice method===
There is a simple method of getting past an aquifer although it is restricted to a small shaft down, and not possible on all maps.
You will need:
*9 pieces of material suitable for crafting [[Wall|Walls]] and floors.
*1 [[Carpenter]] or [[Mason]] (depending on your wall's building material of choice)
*1 [[Miner]] (using multiple miners runs the danger of one miner digging a channel on the floor another is standing on!)
*A map which freezes

Steps:
#Dig channels in a 5x5 square.
#Dig stairs on the outside of the square to allow access to the next level.
#Carefully dig channels underneath all the other channels and build another stair down.
#Continue down in this way until you're right above the water table.
#Dig channels around a central square.
#Wait for the water to freeze.
#The outer-most blocks of ice on the aquifer level will prevent the inner block from being damp.
#Dig a central set of stairs which will allow you to go through the aquifer level and access the levels below.
#If the map will warm up, make sure to surround the stairwell on the aquifer level with walls.
#This system can be expanded to allow for a bigger stairwell.

Diagram:
*<tt>C</tt> - channel
*<tt>G</tt> - grate
*<tt>W</tt> - wall
*<tt>X</tt> - up/down stairs
*<tt>></tt> - down stair
*<tt><</tt> - up stair
*<tt>I</tt> - Ice/water
*<tt>F</tt> - Floor

Surface level:
<pre>
CCCCC
CCCCC
CCCCC>
CCCCC
CCCCC
</pre>
Intermidiate levels:
<pre>
CCCCC
CCCCC
CCCCCX
CCCCC
CCCCC
</pre>
Aquifer level + 1:
<pre>
CCCCC
CCCCC
CC>CF<
CCCCC
CCCCC
</pre>
Aquifer level:
<pre>
IIIII
IWWWI
IWXWI
IWWWI
IIIII
</pre>

===Differing biomes===
If your local area has more than one biome, you may be able to dig down in one biome to bridge under an aquifer in another. This won't work if the aquifer is present in all biomes, of course, but it may be useful in the case of a surprise aquifer that was not marked on the region selection screen.

== Advantages of aquifers ==

It's worth noting that the presence of an aquifer, while challenging, does offer some slight advantages. Firstly, much of the area underground but above the aquifer will be sand, clay, or loam, all of which can be planted in without requiring any kind of irrigation or flooding, allowing farming to get under way quicker and with less stress. Additionally, the presence of water 3-4 z-levels below ground anywhere on the map makes placing wells a simpler task, as well as ensuring easy access to subterranean water supplies.

{{World}}

40d:Ramp

2007-12-10T18:07:52Z

Thatguyyaknow:

A '''ramp''' is a map feature that allows dwarves and caravans to move between levels. Unlike a [[stair]] ramps have no 'top', they only have a bottom. The tile above a ramp must be clear for it to operate. Ramps are less useful in construction then stairs because they do not provide access to adjacent tiles on the floor above them. Ramps are the only way that [[wagon]]s can move between levels in order to access your [[trade depot]].

== Construction and Materials - ==

There are two ways for your dwarves to construct ramps. The first is to carve them into the earth itself (see [[digging]]), using the ground below or walls of stone, dirt, and ice as a building material. The second is to build a ramp out of materials such as [[stone]], [[wood]] or [[block]]s or [[bar]]s.
* Digging ramps upwards is not much use unless the tile directly above is empty and there access to the side. You may want to use a [[stair]] instead.
* Digging a ramp uses the material in the tile you created, and the colour.
* Constructing a ramp uses the colour of the material used.

== Collapse ==

Be sure to avoid mining out all of the floor tiles surrounding a ramp or staircase above and below it. If you do this, not only will the structures themselves be useless, they'll collapse, both of which can leave your dwarves trapped.

== Removing Natural Ramps ==

Natural ramps cannot be removed like normal ramps, normally this is fine but it may interfere with some defensive plans. If you wish to remove these ramps simply build a wall on them then remove it, the ramp will be gone.

{{Buildings}}
[[Category:Constructions]]
[[Category:Designations]]

40d:Ramp

2007-12-10T18:07:29Z

Thatguyyaknow:

A '''ramp''' is a map feature that allows dwarves and caravans to move between levels. Unlike a [[stair]] ramps have no 'top', they only have a bottom. The tile above a ramp must be clear for it to operate. Ramps are less useful in construction then stairs because they do not provide access to adjacent tiles on the floor above them. Ramps are the only way that [[wagon]]s can move between levels in order to access your [[trade depot]].

== Construction and Materials - ==

There are two ways for your dwarves to construct ramps. The first is to carve them into the earth itself (see [[digging]]), using the ground below or walls of stone, dirt, and ice as a building material. The second is to build a ramp out of materials such as [[stone]], [[wood]] or [[block]]s or [[bar]]s.
* Digging ramps upwards is not much use unless the tile directly above is empty and there access to the side. You may want to use a [[stair]] instead.
* Digging a ramp uses the material in the tile you created, and the colour.
* Constructing a ramp uses the colour of the material used.

== Collapse ==

Be sure to avoid mining out all of the floor tiles surrounding a ramp or staircase above and below it. If you do this, not only will the structures themselves be useless, they'll collapse, both of which can leave your dwarves trapped.
{{Buildings}}
[[Category:Constructions]]
[[Category:Designations]]

== Removing Natural Ramps ==

Natural ramps cannot be removed like normal ramps, normally this is fine but it may interfere with some defensive plans. If you wish to remove these ramps simply build a wall on them then remove it, the ramp will be gone.

40d:Starting builds

2007-12-10T17:04:29Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Cheaper axes and/or picks, with a bit of work (and any other weapons you want) */

== Fortress Site ==
Each fortress site offers particular challenges and opportunities; the starting builds below should be adjusted depending on what sort of fortress you envision ... and what it will take to stay alive where you're going!

=== Mountains ===
Most dwarven fortresses are founded along the edges of mountain ranges on sites that combine abundant ore and access to the outside world. Magma and rare metals lure settlers here, but [[goblins]], [[chasm]] dwellers, and even [[giant eagle]]s are potent threats.

Trees and plants do not grow at high elevations, so you'll want to include non-mountainous areas to obtain lumber and food - or, failing this, to pack a lot of extra food and logs.

Other consideration is elevation range. The game allows access up to 15 levels above the highest peak and 15 levels below the deepest valley, so steeper slopes means much more diggable area. The downside is lag; more levels also means more CPU burden (this can cripple a fortress - be careful).

Be sure to include a stream on the map; running water is (almost) essential for any fortress. In Cold and Freezing climates streams and lakes will often be frozen year-round and your dwarves may quickly die of exposure. Choose Temperate or tropical zones for an easier game.

=== Wooded Plains (with trees and plants) ===
Flatlands with at least some trees and gatherable plants can also make for highly successful fortresses.

Advantages over mountain zones include abundant trees and plants, guaranteed agriculture both on the surface and underground, fewer hostile fortresses and caves, and (unless frozen) more abundant water. There are even (rare) magma vents.

The greatest disadvantage is lack of rock to mine. Fewer elevations means fewer exploitable z-levels. The first few levels below the surface are almost always soil, peat, loam, clay, or sand, none of which offers much (or any) gems, ore, or building material. An [[aquifer]], if present, may bar all access to stone until you freeze, pump out, or find a way through the water.

=== Desert, Glaciers, and Barren (few or no trees and plants) ===
Treeless (or near-treeless) biomes are challenging sites for a fortress: you get most of the disadvantages of a flatland site without having access to nearly as many trees and plants. However, near-lifeless zones such as glaciers are wonderful for those with slower machines, as there's little to burden the CPU but your dwarves and livestock. Deserts and barren areas often have sand; with a sufficient source of energy (preferably magma), you can build almost anything out of unlimited glass.

=== Ocean Side ===

An interesting combination of a few of the above locations, beaches are often a mix of ease intermingled with bouts of extreme difficulty. Minerals and trees are often abundant, as well as farmland and sand, but there is often no drinking water unless the biome has a river.
There is also a likelihood that the settlement will fall between two biomes, potentially hazardous if the player expects a peaceful oceanside meadow, without realizing the ocean is full of amphibious zombie whales.

== Starting Builds ==
Many of the quantities suggested end in a "1" or a "6"; this is to maximize the number of [[barrels]] you start with, since most foodstuffs fit five to a barrel. More barrels will let you build a larger stockpile for your first winter and conserves the [[wood]] you harvest in the early game for beds and other necessities.

=== Basic ===
The first order of business is simply to survive. Here is a simple, somewhat paranoid, way to do this.

==== Dwarves & skills ====
On most (but not all) sites, you'll want to get food, brew drink, mine, make wood and stone items, and trade. Whatever additional skills you purchase, be sure to cover these. If you need more points to buy skills (and it's a good idea to buy lots of skills), remove a battle axe.

* 2 miners
* 1 mason/mechanic
* 1 carpenter/woodcutter
* 1 grower/brewer/cook. He's responsible for making prepared meals and drinks.
* either a herbalist/grower, or a fisherdwarf, or a hunter. The first gets you lots of brewable plants on maps with plants, the second gets you food and bones on maps with water (in maps with dangerous fish such as [[carp]] fishing is suicidal so be carefull), and the third gets you meat and bones on maps with animals. Herbalism is usually the safest of the three.
* 1 spare dwarf. You might make him the leader and broker; if so, give him at least novice [[appraiser]] skill so you know what stuff is worth. You might make him responsible for making trade goods, or turn him into your first soldier, or you might just give him some skills you want to experiment with.

==== Items ====
You want picks, food, and drink. Everything else is optional. The suggestions below assume you spent the maximum possible on skills. We'll pack lots just to be safe.

* 2 [[pick]]s - 1 per miner
* 1 [[battle axe]] - so you can chop wood
* 1 [[Anvil]] - so you can make weapons, trade crafts, and such
* 20 units of drink: [[dwarven ale]], [[dwarven beer]], and [[dwarven rum]] are all good. [[dwarven wine]] you'll get through brewing.
* 30 [[plump helmets]] - They're good to eat and produce 5 units of booze for each one brewed at a [[still]].
* 5 turtles - they get you bones and shells
* 20 [[plump helmet]] spawn - for planting.
* 2 dogs - to guard against thieves and help kill intruders.
* (optional) other kinds of seeds and rock nuts
* (optional) 1 of many different kinds of meats for extra barrels
* (optional) some cheap (5 point) leather to make quivers and bags and such

If the map is treeless, remove the battle axe and spend the freed points on more plump helmets and logs (you're going to run out however many you bring...).

If you're willing to wait a year or two to do any metalworking and you're sure traders will come, remove the anvil and spend the freed points on such things as skills, food and drink, wood, leather, or weapons.

=== '''Rapid Expansion''' ===
A plan for quick growth followed up by heavy immigration works well both as an early game strategy and as an assist for a late game foundation. Starting off with the anvil is also much less troublesome if you drop both battleaxes and make your own picks too. Don't worry though, you'll be digging out cavernous villas in no time, and cheaply too, with this build. Food and stone will be in abundance and you'll have excellent worker time utilization. And due to the early metalworking and spreaded skills your dwarves have, soon you'll have powerful steel-armored warrior workers that'll form the bedrock of a city guard.

Always build a Woodburning Furance, Smelter and Metalsmith shop first, and take apart that wagon for extra logs. Either burn those logs into charcoal, or smelt coal into fuel, and then make your tools.

==== Dwarves & skills ====
By dropping both picks and axes you'll be able to afford a lot of useful skills, and you'll be able to get a metalsmithing shop running within the first seconds of your game, so no precious time is lost. Your Dwarves are divided largely into two groups, your laborers (Butcher, Baker and candle--er, Brewer) and your craftsdwarves. Essentially a Bluecollar/Whitecollar divide to set up a nice class war later. Also, by having such wide assortments of skills, your dwarves will get lots of attribute bonuses and become extremely capable fighters by the time you need to worry about that.

Laborers are given mining and growing skills with some extra to cover food production. The Ranger is the oddball, but will spend his early days gathering plants and hauling items, so fits here. Your first order of business with them is to dig that top later out quickly and get some farms started and fully stocked. Then, as they grow, you can go back to digging out the rest of the base.

* The Baker: +5 Mining, +3 Cooking, +2 Growing.
* The Brewer: +5 Mining, +3 Brewing, +2 Growing.
* The Butcher: +5 Mining, +1 Butchering, +1 Leatherworking, +1 Tanning, +2 Growing. Make some bags for sand and the Quarry Bushes and a butcher's shop before the Ranger starts his hunts.

* The Ranger: +3 Woodcutter, +3 Carpenter, +2 Axedwarf, +1 Herbalist, +1 Ambusher. Be sure to assign a war dog or two to this guy, since he's the only one who needs to go outside. Once he gets an axe, he'll also be a competant fighter and hunter and will start with armor due to +1 ambusher.

Craftsdwarves focus on running shops, building trade goods, and making the outpost as profitable as possible in the first year, to attract additional immigrants that can be thrown into the mines or toil in the mushroom fields. They should have very broad skill bases, but the actual choice of leader is up to you.

* The Smithy: +1 Metalsmith, Armorsmith, Weaponsmith, Furnace Operator, Wood Burner, Stone Crafting, Bone Carving. This guy will cover all of your rarely needed creation skills, and make your picks and axes. After this he usually ends up making scads of stone crafts for sale. Glassworking, gem cutting, and potash making are good as well, and even with novice in all areas you'll build fast enough for these rare items.
* The Foreman: +3 Building Design, +3 Mechanic, +1 Judge of Intent, Appraiser, Organizer, Record Keeper. Building design and mechanical work is extremely quick work, so instead give him nobleman skills to spend the rest of his workhours on. These are extremely useful in the long-term.
* The Freemason: +5 Masonry. It seems a bit silly to give him just one primary skill, but Masons are usually working 24 hours a day on all variety of stone doors, chairs and tables.

There's a variation if you want a more 'compact' design of those last two:

* The Construction Worker: +5 Masonry, +3 Mechanic, +2 Building Design.
* The Lazy Boss: +3 Fishing, +3 Fish Cleaning, +1 Judge of Intent, Appraiser, Organizer, Record Keeper.

This is not as useful or safe, as Fishing is a time-intensive skill, so it takes him away from his recordkeeping job for extended periods and a Carp might kill him. It also forces your Mason to get behind on Queues every time someone needs a trap build or a workshop set up. Halting book-keeping doesn't slow down any production, so the original stat-spread can work out better.

==== Items ====
The only thing you need is your anvil, a few stones and bars of metal, everything else is optional. A point of contention is the Iron Axe you'll be making, as some may prefer it to be steel. Steel Bars cost 150, which is three times the cost of iron, and only provide a small damage bonus and no chopping speed bonus. If you start in an area with [[Limestone]] or [[Chalk]] you'll soon be able to smelt Steel with your functioning metalsmith shop anyway. If you're on a map without trees, well, I suppose you don't need the axe at all. But in that case you'd be better off taking the picks, dropping the anvil, and buying a few hundred logs.

* 1 [[Anvil]] - this is what makes it all possible, and helps you get started faster.
* 3 [[Copper Bars]] - these cost 10 each, and will be your picks. Three for the price of one, literally.
* 1 [[Iron Bar]] - this costs 50, and will be your axe. The 40 extra is worth it for the damage increase you get over copper or bronze.
* 2 [[Bituminous Coal]] or [[Logs]] - you can smelt two coal into 4 fuel for the cost of 2 logs. Inexpesive at 3 each, one can afford to bring more.
* 4 cheap stone - any sort works, such as inexpensive [[granite]]. You'll use these to make your first three buildings.

That's what you need to get started, but this is a guide for the items on your list. This build does not require or recommend bringing plump helmets due to their cost. Instead, encourage your dwarves to eat the turtles and meat out of the barrels and cook wine biscuts. Your farms will be running amazingly quickly anyway, and for half the cost of a single helmet you can make feed several dwarves on baked beer. You'll get enough seeds from brewing the shrooms soon enough.

* 26 of [[Wine]], [[Rum]], [[Beer]] and [[Ale]]
* 36 of [[Rock Nuts]], [[Plump Helmet Spawn]] and [[Pig Tail Seeds]]
* 11 [[Turtles]] - these hilarious little dudes are way better than the monkeymeat you usually set out with, what with all the bones they leave. I use these as 'before farming' rations and build up a good supply of bone bolts. Shells are also valuable to have around.
* 1 of each other 2 cost meat, for extra empty barrels.
* 2 [[Dogs]] - preferably war dogs or hunting dogs. Assign these to your Ranger. Bring a pair so you can make more dogs.
* 1 [[Horse]] - they're relatively inexpensive and will help you begin breeding horses faster, as you are nearly always getting a horse with your wagon. Livestock are a valuable commodity for meat and bones, and you want as many of these as possible 'emergency rations' on hand.
* 4 [[Leather]] - you need leather bags to process [[quarry bushes]] and to gather sand for glass. Four will be enough, and you can get it for only 20.

If you do it exactly as written, you will end up with a few points left over. Grab some extra food or upgrade one of your copper bars to an actual copper pick, if you want a faster start. These foodstuffs will last a very long time if managed properly, so get your farms going and start preparing for next year now.

=== Metalbashing/Glassworking ===
Heavy metalbashing and glassworking requires a site with 1) abundant fuel and 2) raw materials. Magma is ideal but large coal seams or a forest will also suffice. A site with either limestone or chalk means nearly unlimited steel. Any site with "sand" (not "loamy sand" or the like) will permit glassworking. Failing these, any place with lots of rock, trees, and preferably sand will work fine. Your biggest choice when setting up is whether to optimize for a fast start or long-term success.

==== Dwarves & skills ====
Unless you're trying a low-skills challenge, each dwarf should get the maximum possible number (currently 10) of skill boosts; remove a battle axe to free up needed points. Individual preferences can be mighty handy; if you have a dwarf who likes steel, clear glass, crossbows, siege engine parts, or something else equally interesting, he's an ideal candidate for matching skills.

* A carpenter/leader: Points into Carpenter, Wood Cutter, and a bunch of nobles' skills, including at least novice Negotiator and Appraiser. This dwarf should have good inter-personal thoughts/preferences.
* A Mason/Mechanic: Points into Mason, Building Designer, and Mechanic. Adding more points to Mason gets construction materials and furniture faster. More points to Mechanic allows faster trap-setting. Adding Appraiser and/or Negotiator skills gives you a back-up leader or broker. A boost to Wrestling gets you better on-call defense.
* A Farmer/Herbalist (assumes the site has at least some plants): This dwarf will gather the plant material you need to brew drinks. Points into Grower and Herbalist. Leftover skill raises should be invested in a valuable, hard to raise trade skill such as Metalsmith, Metal Crafter, or perhaps Glassworking.
* A Farmer/Brewer/Cook: This dwarf is responsible for keeping your community fed and liquored up. Points into Grower, Brewer, and (optionally) Cook. Leftover skill raises should be invested as for the Farmer/Herbalist.
* A Metalbasher: Points into whatever hard-to-raise skills you most want. Armorsmith, Weaponsmith, Bowyer, Glassworker, and even Siege Engineer can all be good choices depending on your setup. Remember to spend a few points on Furnace Operator and perhaps also Wood Burning.
* 2 Miners/Soldiers: Points into both mining and military skills. The miners first get legendary and then become extremely powerful fighters. Remember that it's much easier to increase Mining skill than most of the military skills (especially Armor User), but also that you'll want capable miners immediately.

With this setup, you have several ways to make the trade goods you'll need to buy what you lack. Metal goblets, stone mugs, handwear, footwear, mechanisms, bone or wood crossbows, prepared meals, or bone and shell crafts are all solid choices.

==== Items (all starts) ====
* 2 [[pick]]s
* 6 or 11 of each of [[dwarven ale]], [[dwarven beer]], and [[dwarven rum]]. With abundant brewable plants and lots of wood you don't actually need any starting booze, but it's nice to have a backup.
* at least 11 [[plump helmet]]s. Bring a lot more if you anticipate problems with gathering brewable plants.
* at least 6 [[turtle]]s. Not only are they good eating, they ensure you have the [[shell]]s and [[bone]]s needed to satisfy [[strange mood]]s.
* 1 of every kind of meat that costs 2 or 4, as each type of meat will be packed in its own free barrel and cooking the meat will release that barrel for use. If you don't like this feature, bring more turtles or plump helmets instead.
* Unless the map is glacial, or you intend only outdoor agriculture, bring plenty of seeds as well. A minimum of 15 plump helmet spawn are essential for a quick start to underground agriculture; rock nuts, sweet pod seeds, pig tail seeds, and cave wheat seeds will diversify your meals and drinks and let you set up for clothes-making. Seeds are packed in bags.
* (optional) some cheap (5 point) leather to make quivers and bags and such

===== Items (fast start) =====
* 1 [[Anvil]]
* no [[battle axe]] ... as long as you're confident the site has either iron or copper.
* only a few logs (just enough to get started with), unless the map has no trees

===== Items (moderate start) =====
* no [[Anvil]]
* 1 [[battle axe]] (at present, steel is the only option)
* few or no logs, unless the map has no trees
* with the points you save by not bringing an anvil, buy logs and metal cages. Each cage can be melted into one metal bar, which is an easy way to ensure stocks of metals you expect your site to lack. That missing anvil will slow you down until you get one in trade (which normally takes about 6 or 7 seasons) and might even cost you a failed [[strange mood]], but it means 50 extra metal bars or enough logs to make beds and barrels for all.

===== Items (slow start) =====
* no [[Anvil]]
* no [[battle axe]]s
* lots of logs - at least 25 on a heavily forested map. You can survive without them, but it's a lot cheaper to buy logs to make barrels than to bring more drink.

===== Cheaper axes and/or picks, with a bit of work (and any other weapons you want) =====

Steel axes normally cost 300 points each. Instead of spending that much on them, you can make yourself iron or copper axes by bringing the resources needed instead, and having one dwarf make them for you. For comparison, you could bring 1 anvil and 2 steel axes for 1600 points. You could bring no anvil and 5 steel axes for 1500 points. Or, you could bring enough resources to make 18 iron axes for 1489 points, or 55 copper axes for 1498 points.

Replace the axes and anvil with:
* 1 [[Anvil]] (1000 points) (I'm only mentioning it here because you CANNOT do this without it, unless you're willing to not have axes until traders sell you an anvil)
* You need to bring three fire-safe stones in order to construct the necessary buildings. (9 points)
* 2 tower-cap logs (3 points each, total 6 points)
* N magnetite/limonite/hematite stones (for iron, 24 points each)
* For additional amounts of jewelry, bring 1 cassiterite and 1 copper ore, which combine to make 2 bronze bars. This is better than copper and takes no additional time. (6 points each)
* To save even more points you can skip the ores altogether if you are travelling to an area likely to have exposed magnetite veins.
* N-1 bituminous coal (3 points each)

To make your axes/picks/whatever: You'll want to build a wood burner, a smelter, and a metalsmith's forge. Burn both logs in the wood burner to get two charcoal. Smelt the coke in the smelter. Each will produce a net gain of 2 fuel (that is, coke/charcoal). Then smelt the magnetite/hematite/limonite, which will use one fuel per piece of ore. Finally you can make iron axes in the metalsmith's forge, using one iron bar and one fuel each. (See http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=11&t=001191 for more detail)

=== Free Equipment ===

Dwarves who start with the ambusher skill get some leather armor for free. Dwarves who start with only military skills get a weapon for free; for example, a dwarf with Ambusher, Marksdwarf, Armor Use, Shield Use, and Wrestler as initial skill choices will show up for your fortress wearing leather armor and carrying a crossbow and bolts. Dwarves with a mix of military and civilian skills can get the free armor from ambusher, but not the free weapons. Social skills count as civilian skills for this purpose.

{{Starting FAQ}}

== Challenge builds ==

If repeatedly defending a besieged fortress isn't difficult enough for you, here are a few challenges you can set for yourself. You might also want to check out the [[Game goals|List of goals]] for other ways to challenge yourself.

=== Hermit ===

* No [[skill]]s
* One [[pick]] and no other supplies

A well known and popular challenge. Kill off the 6 starting dwarves and any [[immigrants]] as they arrive, and try to make a living for the last dwarf.

=== Outcast ===

* No [[skill]]s
* One [[pick]] and no other supplies

Same as the hermit challenge, only with multiple hermits. Turn off immigrants or kill them.

=== Roughing it ===

* No picks

Don't [[dig]] or build at all. Bring no [[pick]]s, and don't ask for them in [[Trade depot|trade]]. Watch as the more "weather-averse" dwarves slowly go mad.

=== Gone to the dogs ===

* One [[pick]]
* A ton of [[animals]]

Replace the starting equipment with an equal value in [[dog]]s or [[cat]]s.

=== ASPCA ===

* No [[animals]]

Don't bring any [[animals|pets]]. Furthermore, due to the possibility of animals being caught in them, don't build any [[traps]], either. If [[immigrants]] bring pets, get rid of them somehow. (If you're a particularly rabid ASPCA member, you could get rid of the pet-bearing immigrants, too, but that's probably excessive.)

=== Diplomacy ===

* Six dwarves with only social [[skill]]s
* One skilled dwarf

Six courtiers of the king's court made some ill-advised remarks within earshot of the king, and as a result have been ordered to go found an outpost. They've hired you to make sure they survive. The six nobles only have social skills and refuse to do any work that is beneath them.

=== Luddite ===

* No mechanics or [[mechanism]]s
* No [[machine]]s

[[Traps]] and moving [[bridge]]s are forbidden, [[farming]] must be accomplished by hand.

=== City-States ===

* No [[skill]]s
* 7 or multiple of 7 of everything you bring

At the start your dwarves split everything equally and move to 7 different locales that are not interconnected. They have to mine their own rooms, plant their own crops, use their own craft piles. This will probably require a bit of cross-fertilization until you get [[door]]s and can lock everyone in, but after that it is every dwarf for him/herself!

===Wooden Town===
Start on any treeless map and make everything that can out of wood. Stone may only be used for crafts to trade and things which cannot be made from wood e.g. mechanisms. Metal can be smelted into bars but these bars must be traded away with no further refinement. This will mean your only defense will be [[marksdwarf|marksdwarves]] with wooden bolts or traps Alternatively start on a map with an [[aquifer]] and do not tunnel beneath it but build all buildings from stone.

=== Dwarves on a Diet ===

==== Fishing Village ====

Give your dwarves only the fishing skill and other fishing related skills (like bonecrafting.) Try to survive off a [[fish]] only diet. Flood the river and build houses above it so the dwarves can fish through their floors. There will be an extra challenge if the river freezes in the winter.

==== Carnivore ====

* No plants or seeds

Only eat strays, pets, and animals you trap and hunt. No farming or plant gathering. Keep all your pets in cages and care for them as little as possible. Eat your dwarves' pets first for an extra challenge. If this upsets your dwarves, ridicule or ignore them. (If you are particularly heartless, you could cage those dwarves as well because anyone that empathizes with animals doesn't deserve any rights either.)

==== Vegetarian or vegan ====

* No meat or fish
* Vegans - no cheese, leather, silk, or shell

A fairly easy challenge. Take no meat and buy no meat. Butcher no animals. Gut no fish. To make your dwarves vegan, use no animal products like the [[Elf|elves]].

==== IOGT / AA ====

* No alcohol

Quite possibly, this is the cruelest challenge that your dwarves can be given. Don't ever brew any alcohol. Build [[well]]s instead and watch your now teetotaller dwarves work slower and slower by the season.

=== Hunting Party ===

* One marksman/ambusher
* Two camp servants (e.g. one cook/brewer/herbalist, one butcher/tanner/leatherworker/woodcutter)
* Four clients, all dabbling in marksman/ambusher but with primarily civilian skills.

No anvil, lots of hunting dogs ... and a haunted wood. (In a terrifying wood, you may find all the trees & plants are dead, severely reducing long-term prospects.)

=== Immigration and Customs Enforcement ===

* One miner/mason/architect
* One woodcutter/carpenter/architect
* Five military dwarves

No anvil, lots of food, in a canyon - spend the first year building fortifications to interdict traffic. Immigrants can build a town around you, but your original dwarves remain dedicated to their mission.

=== Dwarf Siege ===

Start in the middle of a goblin fortress. See how long you can survive, and how many goblins you can kill.

=== Dwarfsicles ===

Select a map region in the northern extremities (or another very cold area), where water is frozen for much or all of the year. All construction that can be undertaken with stone must use [[ice]], instead. Be sure to bring plenty of [[Plump helmet|Plump Helmets]] for brewing drinks!

For an insane challenge, forbid yourself from digging in any material that can yield resources other than ice.

===This. Is. SPARTAAAA===
At least 50% of your dwarves should be military 100% of the time, and train in spears, shield use and wrestling. All other dwarves are 'helots' and shouldn't be given any skills - they can be pressed into the military during times of war, but given no equipment or at most a bare minimum of inferior weapons.

You should refuse trade with caravans, instead attacking them if possible. You should forbid the use of gold and silver; the making of crafts; and the smoothing of walls or any other task that make your fortress 'beautiful'.

You shouldn't create chainmail nor plate armour. You should only brew wine.

Any dwarf that drops his shield should be executed.

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sparta#Society Read more about the real Sparta]

=== Add your challenges! ===

Challenges are fun! Add some!

40d:Dwarf fortress mode

2007-11-30T18:35:34Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Selecting a site */

After creating a new world, most new users will play in fortress mode. In fortress mode, you pick a location in your world, then assign your seven initial dwarves some starting skills and pick items and animals to bring along. When the game starts, unlike previous versions, you will not be presented with the typical |river|field|cliff| layout that we are all used to, but instead with whatever area of the map you picked. There is a new Z axis (up and down) which you probably have to use if you picked a non mountainous area. You can get to the different layers using {{K|>}} (down) and {{K|<}} (up). To [[digging|dig]] to other layers first designate a down staircase, then go down a layer and designate and up staircase below it. You can then build buildings and workshops in the space you have dug out.

=== Selecting a site ===
The most important decision that will lead to success or failiure of your fort is your starting location. Study carefully the options presented so that you select a site that you can confidently play in. Things to consider are vegetation (trees, plants), water (rivers or brooks), temperature (hot, warm, cold, freezing) and locale? (evil, terrifying, calm, sinister). There are [[volcano]]s, if you want magma then find a [[magma vent]] near a volcano. Is there an aquifer stopping you from reacing stone? What minerals do those stone layers contain?

=== Embarking ===
Selecting your dwarves and starting materials.

=== Playing ===
Your view of the ingame world is that of a multi-layered environment which you can move up and down and left to right. Dwarves are represented by little smiles, rocks by blackness and sky by blueness. You have a command menu that lets you set commands that your dutiful dwarves will attempt to follow. The rest of this wiki is dedicated to helping you with these commands.

=== Losing ===
DEATH. Try to avoid this. But don't forget that [[losing]] is fun!

=== Winning ===
Not known! Set your own goals. Survival is one, set your score by how many years your dwarves can thrive for.

=== Goals ===
There aren't really many goals in this game. Any goal would be the ones you set for yourself. 
Here is a list of fun game goals to attempt: [[Game goals | List of Fun Goals]]

=== Compared to the Last Version ===
There is no promise of finding a Cave River, however [[farming]] may now be performed in any [[soil]], such as loam or sand. Complex [[irrigation]] systems are required for farming on bare rock, which must first be covered in mud.

Rather than being able to expect better [[ore]] by simply digging to the right, it is now necessary to look at the geological formation of your potential fortress site to predict what kind of [[ore]], [[stone]], and [[gem]]s to expect.

[[category:Fortress mode]]

40d:Fortress defense

2007-11-30T18:26:39Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Siege weapons */

=Entrance traps=

==Flooded Entrance==

Using a chamber as your entrance alongside a chamber full of water and some machinery you can flood or drain the entrance at will.

The basic premise requires two levers, two screw pumps and two gear assemblies. The amount of power required and the number of additional components needed to get the power to the screw pumps varies depending on distance/setup. One pump is placed to draw from chamber 1 and dump into chamber 2. The other is set in reverse. A gear assembly is placed next to each pump and connected to the main power system. Each gear is linked to a lever. Now at the flip of a switch you can submerge your entrance with water or magma for easy, secure defense against creatures that aren't amphibious or magma-dwelling, depending.

[[Image:Entflood.jpg]]

The picture above shows the design in action. The green pump is currently on while the red has been disconnected through the grey marked axle. The yellow X is just to mark that there is a channel under the axle.

=Mechanical traps=

=Siege weapons=

One effective way to have seige weapons defend your fortress is:

*<tt>.</tt> - floor
*<tt>#</tt> - wall
*<tt>s</tt> - ballista
*<tt>></tt> - Stair
*<tt> </tt> - channel

<pre>
###########################sss
Entrance...............> sss...sss
Entrance...............> sssssssss
Entrance...............> ssssss...
########################sss###
</pre>

Using this design you can cripple an army using a well timed volley (well once armies actually attack you will)

[[Siege engine]]

[[Category:World]]
[[Category:Fortress Defense]]
[[Category:Buildings]]
[[Category:Stub]]

40d Talk:Millstone

2007-11-29T15:34:27Z

Thatguyyaknow:

There is no key for this workshop design template. I don't know what is what. [[User:Schm0|Schm0]] 22:54, 15 November 2007 (EST)

----

Can one millstone handle multiple jobs at once? If so, how many? Do I need to build multiple millstones to grind up my dimple cup farm's large output?
* With the mill plants task on repeat, I've always been limited by bag production and not capacity of the millstone. However I normally build two just because I can power that from one windmill. [[User:Coelocanth|Coelocanth]] 11:14, 27 November 2007 (EST)

----
Isn't the whole z-level (-1) unnecessary? [[User:Vaevictus|Vae]] 07:49, 27 November 2007 (EST)
* yes [[User:Coelocanth|Coelocanth]] 11:14, 27 November 2007 (EST)

Unless you want to power multiple mills then the gear assembly is unecessary too you could put the mill directly under the verticle axel/ windmill

40d:Forbidden

2007-11-29T15:12:32Z

Thatguyyaknow:

Items can be marked "Forbidden", and will not be touched by your dwarves. To make use of such items, you must [[Reclaim items/buildings | reclaim]] them.

Items are marked "Forbidden" when:
*playing [[reclaim fortress mode | reclaim fortress]] mode
*they have been dumped in a [[Activity zone | garbage zone]]
*items in a town are forbidden when you first arrive, the towns inhabitants wont care if you take them though.
[[Category:Designations]]

40d:Cheating

2007-11-27T20:26:58Z

Thatguyyaknow:

==Easy Adamantinite==
copy:

[REACTION:ADAMANTINE_WAFERS]

[NAME:make adamantine wafers]

[SMELTER]

[REAGENT]

[PRODUCT:100:1:BAR:NO_SUBTYPE:METAL:ADAMANTINE]

into the raws replacing. next time you make a world your dwarves will eb capable of creating adamantine from empty air.

==River freeze==
By turning temperature to NO in the .init file, you can freeze the river in cold environments (even during summer), allowing you to do anything you need to do before unfreezing it. This is especially useful for retrieving items or digging tunnels straight up to water sources without them flooding.

==Savescumming==

Savescumming refers to the practice of regularly backing up your saves so you can revert to one if your fortress crumbles to the last. This can be toggled to be done automatically in the init file, so some might not consider this to be cheating.

Another method to save scum is open up task manager (ctrl+alt+delete) and open the Processes tab, and then selecting dwarfort.exe and clicking on end task. This will cause dwarf fortress to close, without overwriting the last saved game. WARNING: closing the game in this manner has been known to cause inflate errors, especially in [[adventurer mode]].

==Memory Editing==

''[[:Memory editing|Main article: Memory editing]]''

Memory editing refers to using an external program to modify numbers within the game. This is at its most useful when choosing what to take with you, as you can give yourself an unlimited number of points. What doesn't work in the new version is giving your starting dwarves tons of prof skills, since there now is a limit in how many skills they can start with. You can still start your dwarves with all proficient skills, but you need to change the skill limit value first on every dwarf you want to do this with.

Don't forget, Cheat-O-Matic is a very easy to use tool for memory hacking, use it to change starting points, the dwarf skill limits, etc.

{| style="width: 100%; background: #ddd; border: 1px solid #777; border-left-color:#bbb; border-top-color:#bbb;"
|+ style="color: #fff; background: #999; border: 1px solid #777; border-left-color:#bbb; border-top-color:#bbb; padding: 0.2em 0.5em; text-align: center" | '''Links'''
|-
! style="text-align: left; padding: 0.1em 0.5em" | Various Memory Hacking Tools:
| [http://wpepro.net/index.php?categoryid=9&p13_sectionid=1&p13_fileid=79?&category=3 WPE Pro/PermEdit/Tsearch], [http://www.artmoney.ru/?threadid=2669677 ARTMONEY], [http://www.developerfusion.co.uk/show/2426/?t=38984 Cheat-O-Matic],
[http://cheatengine.org/?t=38984 Cheat Engine]
|}
[[Category:Guides]]

40d:Murky pool

2007-11-27T16:17:59Z

Thatguyyaknow:

Murky pools are small pools of [[water]] one [[Z-Level]] deep on the surface of the map. Dwarves with the [[fishing]] job active will attempt to [[fish]] in them. In some [[climate]]s during [[winter]], they will refill themselves fully about the time that [[snow]] melts. This is because any ice that melts will always melt to 1 square of 7/7 water regardless of the amount of water that froze.

==Removing==

A murky pool is difficult to remove. Once drained, murky pools cannot be [[digging|dug]] out or into. [[Channel]] designations cannot be placed on top of murky water tiles, and they cannot be dug up into from beneath.

There are two known ways to remove murky pools:
# Dig underneath the murky pool, then dig a channel around the edge so that the pool tiles are connected to [[open space|nothing]]. The tiles will collapse in a pile of rubble, job done. This method does not always work.
# Drain the pool and build [[floor]]s or [[wall]]s on the murky tiles. When removed, the murky pool tiles will be gone. (Leaving [[silty clay loam]] or some such).

[[Category:map tiles]]

40d:Mountain

2007-11-27T16:13:20Z

Thatguyyaknow: edited 3rd scentence- added usually since volcanoes are not always mountains

A mountain is a naturally high elevation usually culminating in a peak. They are usually formed by the collision of tectonic plates or through volcanic activity. [[Volcano]]es are usually mountains, but mountains are not necessarily volcanoes.

As part of a starting site, mountains provide jagged terrain and impassable cliffs. They usually have very limited [[water]] resources, i.e., few ponds or streams, although many streams and rivers originate from the base of mountain ranges. They often have sparse vegetation, and depending on the elevation may lack any sort of usable [[soil]].

The stratification listed for mountains in Dwarf Fortress usually consists of one lighter rock type, generally a sedimentary stone (such as limestone, mudstone or dolomite), and then two further layers of heavy intrusive igneous (such as Granite, Rhyolite, or Gabbro) or metamorphic rock (such as Gneiss, Quartzite, or Phyllite). Stone, and subsequently ores, are always in abundance in mountain [[biome]]s.

It is not possible to start a fortress on an exclusively mountain biome; however, fortress sites can straddle mountains on one side and more (or less) hospitable biome on the other, which will provide more valuable diversity of wildlife and resources.

Mountains imply high elevation in the surrounding area. This can result in a "forest" biome that does not actually have any trees, since above a certain elevation there may be no [[soil]] and therefore no place for trees to actually grow. When choosing a starting fortress site, be sure to check the elevation map (using the tab key), and try to get a mix of low and medium or high elevations if possible.

Unique features such as [[chasm]]s, [[cave river]]s and [[glowing pit|pit]]s are exclusive to mountains.

{{World}}

[[Category:Biomes]][[Category:World]]

Category:Furnaces

2007-11-21T20:41:11Z

Thatguyyaknow:

[[Furnace]]s are a special type of [[workshop]], used to heat and melt material. since they involve the use of fire a firesafe material must be used in their construction.

[[Category:Workshops]]

40d:Trap

2007-11-21T19:39:06Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Upright Spear/Spike */ adjusted introductory scentence to prevent it contradicting the rest of the info

(For traps used to catch vermin, see [[animal trap]]).

Traps are a reliable and cost-effective method for defending any fortress. Unlike soldiers, they're always on duty, and don't need to be carefully managed. On the other hand, they are immobile and can only lie in wait for foes to walk over them. To build a trap, go to the {{k|b}}uild->Traps/Levers menu. You'll generally need one [[mechanism]], and at least one other component depending on the type of trap. They can be built indoors or outdoors, and require a level ground square with no other constructions in them. There are a few monsters, most notably kobold thieves, that are able to pass over traps without triggering them.

==Stone-fall Trap==
The simplest trap to construct, a stone-fall trap is essentially a stone suspended up in the air which is dropped on intruders when the trap is triggered. These are a popular defensive measure early on, as the components needed are readily available as soon as you start mining. A single stone trap will kill or severely maim most humanoid enemies although trolls, magmamen and hardier creatures may take two or three to drop. Mythical creatures such as dragons, hydras and titans will take upwards of five or six. After being used they need to be reloaded with another stone, a task which your dwarves will see to automatically. Stone traps can now be built outside.
:Shortcut {{k|s}}
:Components used: [[mechanism]] and an ordinary [[stone]]

==Weapon Trap==
Weapon traps consist of any number of deadly instruments rigged to a mechanism. When an intruder sets off the trap, the weapons spring out and strike the poor sap. You can add up to 10 weapons to a weapon trap, and they will all attack together when set off. This gives the potential for dealing significant amounts of damage at once. There are also special giant weapon parts you can build that are specially designed for use in weapon traps. Unlike stone-fall traps, weapon traps automatically reset after being triggered, ready to splatter the intruder's friends. But there is a (20%?)chance that the trap will become jammed each time it is triggered. A nearby dwarf will automatically clean a jammed trap; this does not require the [[cleaning]] labor. If there are weapons that require ammunition in the trap, they will also have to be reloaded occasionally. Weapon traps using bows or crossbows will not require cleaning but do use ammo.
:Shortcut {{k|w}}
:Components used: [[mechanism]] and whatever [[weapon]]s you want.

==Cage Trap==
Cage traps capture creatures that set them off in [[cage]]s. After a creature is captured it's stored, cage and all, in an appropriate animal stockpile. Then the trap is reloaded with another cage. You can do all sorts of fun things with [[captured creatures]]. Creatures in cages will be fed periodically.
:Shortcut {{k|c}}
:Components used: [[mechanism]] and a [[cage]].

==Upright Spear/Spike==
These traps will be useless on their own, they must be linked up to a pressure plate or lever to become active, the fact that they do piercing damage makes them usefull against more powerfull foes, additionally their friendly fire means they make extremely usefull and effective anti-immigrant traps.

:I did some testing, and as far as I can tell they don't cause any extra falling damage. I could be wrong about this as I only tested with wooden spikes and maybe they didn't add enough extra to be noticeable, but I doubt it.

:they can, however, be linked to a lever. when pulled, the retract - when pulled again they shoot out doing a moderate amount of damage (5 mid-range wooden spikes pierced both lungs of an elephant and gave it a light liver wound in one shot). The best part is, the lever can be set to repeat which makes the spikes go up and down really fast and causes massive damage to anything walking over them.

:stuff does get stuck in them, sort of. corpses will appear as an item inside the spikes 'building' when they are out (the same way mugs and whatnot appear inside workshops when you first make them). retracting the spikes lets the corpse out. I have no idea if a corpse stuck in them stops them from doing damage to other creatures walking over them.

:a warning - spikes do friendly fire, and the 5 moderate wooden spikes mentioned above was enough to instagib some elven traders and one of my dwarves in 1 shot. ---- Taken from a forum post by BurnedToast [http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=001777]

:Shortcut {{k|S}} (capitalized)
:Components used: [[spear]]s or [[spike]]s.

==Other Traps==
You can create even more elaborate traps with imaginative use of pits, pressure plates, levers, grates, supports, water, magma, and whatever else you can think of. Watching those goblins try to find a way out of your drowning chamber as it begins to fill is really quite satisfying.

{{Buildings}}
[[Category:Traps]]
[[Category:Fortress Defense]]

40d:Trap

2007-11-19T19:06:53Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Upright Spear/Spike */

(For traps used to catch vermin, see [[animal trap]]).

Traps are a reliable and cost-effective method for defending any fortress. Unlike soldiers, they're always on duty, and don't need to be carefully managed. On the other hand, they are immobile and can only lie in wait for foes to walk over them. To build a trap, go to the {{k|b}}uild->Traps/Levers menu. You'll generally need one [[mechanism]], and at least one other component depending on the type of trap. They can be built indoors or outdoors, and require a level ground square with no other constructions in them. There are a few monsters, most notably kobold thieves, that are able to pass over traps without triggering them.

==Stone-fall Trap==
The simplest trap to construct, a stone-fall trap is essentially a stone suspended up in the air which is dropped on intruders when the trap is triggered. These are a popular defensive measure early on, as the components needed are readily available as soon as you start mining. A single stone trap will kill or severely maim most humanoid enemies although trolls, magmamen and hardier creatures may take two or three to drop. Mythical creatures such as dragons, hydras and titans will take upwards of five or six. After being used they need to be reloaded with another stone, a task which your dwarves will see to automatically. Stone traps can now be built outside.
:Shortcut {{k|s}}
:Components used: [[mechanism]] and an ordinary [[stone]]

==Weapon Trap==
Weapon traps consist of any number of deadly instruments rigged to a mechanism. When an intruder sets off the trap, the weapons spring out and strike the poor sap. You can add up to 10 weapons to a weapon trap, and they will all attack together when set off. This gives the potential for dealing significant amounts of damage at once. There are also special giant weapon parts you can build that are specially designed for use in weapon traps. Unlike stone-fall traps, weapon traps automatically reset after being triggered, ready to splatter the intruder's friends. But there is a (20%?)chance that the trap will become jammed each time it is triggered. A nearby dwarf will automatically clean a jammed trap; this does not require the [[cleaning]] labor. If there are weapons that require ammunition in the trap, they will also have to be reloaded occasionally. Weapon traps using bows or crossbows will not require cleaning but do use ammo.
:Shortcut {{k|w}}
:Components used: [[mechanism]] and whatever [[weapon]]s you want.

==Cage Trap==
Cage traps capture creatures that set them off in [[cage]]s. After a creature is captured it's stored, cage and all, in an appropriate animal stockpile. Then the trap is reloaded with another cage. You can do all sorts of fun things with [[captured creatures]]. Creatures in cages will be fed periodically.
:Shortcut {{k|c}}
:Components used: [[mechanism]] and a [[cage]].

==Upright Spear/Spike==
I did some testing, and as far as I can tell they don't cause any extra falling damage. I could be wrong about this as I only tested with wooden spikes and maybe they didn't add enough extra to be noticeable, but I doubt it.
they can, however, be linked to a lever. when pulled, the retract - when pulled again they shoot out doing a moderate amount of damage (5 mid-range wooden spikes pierced both lungs of an elephant and gave it a light liver wound in one shot). The best part is, the lever can be set to repeat which makes the spikes go up and down really fast and causes massive damage to anything walking over them.

stuff does get stuck in them, sort of. corpses will appear as an item inside the spikes 'building' when they are out (the same way mugs and whatnot appear inside workshops when you first make them). retracting the spikes lets the corpse out. I have no idea if a corpse stuck in them stops them from doing damage to other creatures walking over them.

a warning - spikes do friendly fire, and the 5 moderate wooden spikes mentioned above was enough to instagib some elven traders and one of my dwarves in 1 shot. ---- Taken from a forum post by BurnedToast [http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=001777]

:Shortcut {{k|S}} (capitalized)
:Components used: [[spear]]s or [[spike]]s.

==Other Traps==
You can create even more elaborate traps with imaginative use of pits, pressure plates, levers, grates, supports, water, magma, and whatever else you can think of. Watching those goblins try to find a way out of your drowning chamber as it begins to fill is really quite satisfying.

{{Buildings}}
[[Category:Traps]]
[[Category:Fortress Defense]]

40d Talk:Trap

2007-11-19T19:01:48Z

Thatguyyaknow:

Couldn't one generate a mild supplementary food source by putting cage traps out on the map at random? Or create rows of them to catch aggressive creatures that are chasing down a fleeing dwarf. The ability to place them on the surface has some interesting possibilities. [[User:Kefkakrazy|Kefkakrazy]] 04:45, 4 November 2007 (EST)

Will berserk dwarves set off pressure plates? Toady mentioned he was going to stop that from happening [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 19:39, 4 November 2007 (EST)

Does triggering an upright spike with a lever make it retract? I am testing this now.

Will flooding a spiked pit break or cancel the spike trap? I'd test this, but I don't have the channel dug in yet. --[[User:Xazak|Xazak]] 18:30, 5 November 2007 (EST)

I'm pretty sure the "corpse stuck in trap" chance is 50%, according to Toady either on IRC or some forgotten forum post a few months back. I really can't remember for sure. -[[User:EarthquakeDamage|EarthquakeDamage]] 02:31, 10 November 2007 (EST)

RE Upright Spikes: They're are only effective if something falls on them, right? They don't slow and certainly don't hurt anything just walking through them? -[[User:EarthquakeDamage|EarthquakeDamage]] 02:35, 10 November 2007 (EST)

editing info on pike trap according to info on this[http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=001777] topic

40d:Frequently Asked Questions

2007-11-15T19:18:47Z

Thatguyyaknow:

== Frequently Asked Questions ==

This section is dedicated to Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) Asked by many, many people that are indexed into a single section so people don't have to answer them over and over, they simply direct the question asker to this wiki article.

* [[Z-Axis| What The Hell is the Z-Axis?]]
* [[Your first fortress| Ok, I installed Dwarf Fortress. What is the first thing I should do?]] 
* [[Tower-cap | How do I build an underground tree farm?]]
* [[Magma | Where can I find magma?]]
* [[Stone management | How do I get rid of all this stone?]]
* [[Furniture| Why when I try to build a bed/door/chair does it say needs bed/door/chair?]]

40d:Furniture

2007-11-15T19:16:25Z

Thatguyyaknow:

==Furniture==
Furniture refers to a variety of different items created at a variety of workshops, all furniture has a partical use in your fortress. Some furniture must be placed before it can be used, this is done through the build menu.

==List of Furniture==
:[[Cage]]
:[[Chain]]
:[[Animal trap]]
:[[Bucket]]
:[[Barrel]]
:[[Armor stand]]
:[[Blocks]]
:[[Door]]
:[[Floodgate]]
:[[Hatch cover]]
:[[Grate]]
:[[Statue]]
:[[Cabinet]]
:[[Chest]]
:[[Chair]]
:[[Sarcophagus]]
:[[Table]]
:[[Weapon rack]]
:[[Bin]]
:[[Pipe]] section

40d:Carp

2007-11-15T02:20:27Z

Thatguyyaknow:

These little monsters are challenging [[elephant]]s for the post of King of Beasts. Not only because they can drag a fully grown dwarf into the water and nibble him to death, or because they can stare at your fisherdwarf and send him staggering back into a cliff - but also because your rangers will unload their whole quivers on them, oblivious of nearby animals that can, you know, walk on land. Carp will however die after the first winter if you are lucky enough to have a map which freezes, alterantively try draining all the rivers and lakes to air drown them (and most likely water drown your dwarves)

==Explanation==

The carp's status as a cold-blooded dwarf killer is no doubt due to the fact that [[Toady One]] simply used a default bite attack for the carp (as with most of the new beings in v0.27.169.33a). The carp, half the size of a dwarf, has a bite attack which inflicts 1-6 damage points. Compared to the strength of a dwarven punch (1-2 damage points), it is plain to see that it is simply an oversight and will be fixed some time in the future. In addition, carp gain attributes simply by swimming; since fish are always swimming, carp can quickly reach insane levels of stats (this bug has been fixed for the next release after v0.27.169.33a).

The carp's propensity to attack creatures outside of its element and its ability to scare away dwarves—and be attacked by dwarves—it could never really reach are better classifiable as bugs.

{{Creatures}}
[[Category:Animals]]

40d:River

2007-11-15T02:17:34Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Surface Rivers */

== Surface Rivers ==

Rivers are found on the surface of world maps. They vary in width and depth, some being more wide and some being more deep than others. They often flow through deep canyons or just across the flat surface of a level. On levels with cliffs, [[waterfall|waterfalls]] may be found. [[Brook]]s are more shallow than rivers and can be crossed by creatures and dwarves without a bridge.

'''Major rivers, Minor rivers and Brooks'''''

On the surface of the world you can find three different types of rivers.

*Major Rivers are distinguished by a different symbol than just a "-" instead they are an "=" some worlds have no Major Rivers so they can be considered quite valuable. Usually they have minor river tributaries and can often feed large lakes. The difference (if any) between major and minor rivers has yet to be discovered. However major rivers are beleived to lower the fps/

*Minor Rivers are dark blue and usually have tributaries of brooks.

*Brooks are light blue and come from springs.

[[Image:Watersystems01.jpg|298px|thumb|Different sorts of rivers in action]].]]

== Underground Rivers ==

An underground river is, obviously, a river found underground. They are hard to find in the current version of Dwarf Fortress, particularly because you are not guaranteed to have one in your map.

If you are lucky enough to find a cave river, you can use it as the basis of an [[underground forest]] operation.

== Other Important Facts ==

*Rivers presumably contain an unlimited amount of water and cannot be drained.
*Rivers often contain an abundance of [[fishing|fish]].
*See [[water]].

{{World}}

[[Category:Map tiles]][[category:Water bodies]][[Category:World]]

40d:Floor

2007-11-15T02:15:31Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Deconstruction */

A '''floor''' is a [[map tile]] state that creatures can walk on. A floor is formed either naturally (as [[grass]] or soil the ground), by constructing walls (thus creating a floor on the level above) or by building a floor. Floors can be built on natural floors; this distinction is subtle but allows for 'paving'.

Constructed floors:
* count as [[construction]]s and cannot have [[wall]]s built upon them
* can have other types of buildings built upon them, such as workshops
* can be muddied and farmed

Floors enclose spaces making the tile below them [[inside]].

== Construction ==
Floors must be built up tile by tile using {{K|b}} -> {{K|C}} -> {{K|f}}. There is no way to build more than one at a time. Smoothing floors requires the [[Stone Detailing]] skill. Building a floor tile requires the [[Masonry]] skill.{{ver|0.27.169.33a}}

== Deconstruction ==
Use caution when deconstructing floors as the dwarves will occasionally stand on them while removing them. This causes them to fall through to the next level down when they finish which can be quite dangerous.
If the floors created by the construction of a [[wall]] on a lower level are removed than the dwarf removing them will be stuck floating in the air until they are rebuilt. {{ver|0.27.169.33a}}

If you build a floodgate on top of the floor prior to deconstructing it, the dwarf will not be able to stand on the tile while removing the floor, thus preventing them from plummeting to their doom. Alternatively it is possible to tunnel one z-level down and build a bridge out under the floors to be deconstructed, your dwarve will survive and the bridge can then be deconstructed safely.

== See Also ==

*[[Digging]]

{{Furniture}}
[[Category:Constructions]]
[[Category:Map tiles]]

40d:Wall

2007-11-15T02:10:22Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Construction */

A '''wall''' is a either a [[map tile]] or a [[construction]] that blocks access to creatures. The appearence of a constructed wall is similar to that of a [[smooth]]ed wall but it works the same as any filled tile composed of mountain rock, clay or soil. Walls either occur naturally (e.g. a Rough-hewn Andesite Wall), or can be constructed. With constructed walls it is possible to create multi-level [[building]]s such as [[tower]]s complete with roofs by creating [[floor]]s on the layer above. A wall fills the tile it is in and creates a walkable space above it.

== Digging ==
As explained on the [[digging]] page, naturally occuring walls can be dug out using the {{Key|d}}esginations {{Key|d}}ig command, or {{Key|h}} channel command.

== Construction ==

Walls must be built up tile by tile. To do this, ues the {{K|b}}uild -> {{K|C}}onstruction -> {{K|w}}all command. There is no way to build more than one at a time. Walls may be built on any square which does not already contain a structure, provided your dwarves can reach that square (this does not allow for your dwarves to build it diagonally) however any structure which cannot draw support from an adjacent construction (including walls 1 z-level lower) or any unchanneled adjacent floors will colapse. This means it is important to be carefull when building arpund bridges since a bridge will not support a structure and any mason/carpenter who builds a structre off a bridge is ikely to sustain [[wounds]] often requireing a few months bed rest. Walls made of wood must be built by a carpenter, and stonewalls by a mason.
Building a wall will create a floor of the same type as the wall on the layer above it, provided there is no floor there.

{{Furniture}}
[[Category:Buildings]]
[[Category:Constructions]]
[[Category:Map tiles]]

40d:Aquifer

2007-11-12T17:04:35Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* The Pump Method */

An aquifer is a subterranean layer of water-bearing rock or soil. Attempts to mine through them will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with water, effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in clay, loam, and sand, makes it difficult to find great quantities of stone in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

== Dealing with Aquifers ==

The challenges presented by an aquifer may be circumvented in several ways. Firstly, much more of your equipment will likely be made from wood, especially early on, so it may help to be in a heavily forested area. Once you've established your fortress a bit, you will also be able to trade for stone and metals if you run short.

It is also worth noting that it sometimes possible to find some amount of stone above the aquifer. It may help to create exploratory shafts searching for pockets of stone. Be aware that mining along the level immediately above the aquifer will result in patches of 'damp stone,' which will flood if mined out; these squares will flash with water when designating mining areas.

===The Ore method===
On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a [[sedimentary layer]] such as [[sandstone]], it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of [[ore]] such as [[magnetite]]. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a [[Utilities|utility]] like reveal.exe.

===The Magma method===
If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. The water from the aquifer is not pressurized and magma is chunky, so it is safe to dig channels in aquifer. Though you will have to re-dig a lot of channels due to an element of chance, you can create a pool of magma on the aquifer z-level, and then pinch the pool off from the supply of magma with water. When it cools (which you can hasten with more water) you can dig down through the middle of a 3x3 patch of obsidian without flooding. With larger starting patches, you can dig through multiple levels of aquifer.

===The Pump Method===
It is possible to pump the water out of an aquifer; though the supply is apparently unlimited it can be pumped out faster than the water seeps in, allowing for a fairly safe area on the z level. This method is somewhat dangerous since problems with your pumps can lead to drowning, however, it allows a larger area to be cleared than most methods and can be done anywhere. It's also easier to plan around a series of pumps than hoping you'll hit rock on the way down.
There is an example of how to get through an aquifer with pumps here: http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-120-aquifercmv

===The Ice Method===
There is a simple method of getting past an aquifer although it is restricted to a small shaft down, and not possible on all maps.
You will need:
*9 pieces of material suitable for crafting [[Wall|Walls]] and floors.
*1 [[Carpenter]] or [[Mason]] (depending on your wall's building material of choice)
*1 [[Miner]] (using multiple miners runs the danger of one miner digging a channel on the floor another is standing on!)
*A map which freezes

steps:
#Dig channels in a 5x5 square.
#Dig stairs on the outside of the square to allow access to the next level.
#Carefully dig channels underneath all the other channels and build another stair down.
#Continue down in this way until you're right above the water table.
#Dig channels around a central square.
#Wait for the water to freeze.
#The outer-most blocks of ice on the aquifer level will prevent the inner block from being damp.
#Dig a central set of stairs which will allow you to go through the aquifer level and access the levels below.
#If the map will warm up, make sure to surround the stairwell on the aquifer level with walls.
#This system can be expanded to allow for a bigger stairwell.

diagram:
*<tt>C</tt> - channel
*<tt>G</tt> - grate
*<tt>W</tt> - wall
*<tt>X</tt> - up/down stairs
*<tt>></tt> - down stair
*<tt><</tt> - up stair
*<tt>I</tt> - Ice/water
*<tt>F</tt> - Floor

Surface level:
<pre>
CCCCC
CCCCC
CCCCC>
CCCCC
CCCCC
</pre>
Intermidiate levels:
<pre>
CCCCC
CCCCC
CCCCCX
CCCCC
CCCCC
</pre>
Aquifer level + 1:
<pre>
CCCCC
CCCCC
CC>CF<
CCCCC
CCCCC
</pre>
Aquifer level:
<pre>
IIIII
IWWWI
IWXWI
IWWWI
IIIII
</pre>

===Differing biomes===
If your local area has more than one biome, you may be able to dig down in one biome to bridge under an aquifer in another. This won't work if the aquifer is present in all biomes, of course, but it may be useful in the case of a surprise aquifer that was not marked on the region selection screen.

== Advantages of Aquifers ==

It's worth noting that the presence of an aquifer, while challenging, does offer some slight advantages. Firstly, much of the area underground but above the aquifer will be sand, clay, or loam, all of which can be planted in without requiring any kind of irrigation or flooding, allowing farming to get under way quicker and with less stress. Additionally, the presence of water 3-4 z-levels below ground anywhere on the map makes placing wells a simpler task, as well as ensuring easy access to subterranean water supplies.

40d:Hauling

2007-11-11T18:38:35Z

Thatguyyaknow:

Hauling is the process of bringing an object to its designated place, often a [[stockpile]]. Many larger fortresses use dwarfs dedicated to hauling so that their other dwarfs will spend more time working and less time dragging whatever they made to the appropriate stockpile.

40d:Stockpile

2007-11-11T18:37:10Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Refuse */

{{old|0.23.130.23a}}

'''Stockpiles''' are where dwarves will store items of various types. Dwarves with the "[[hauling]]" job on will seek out items that aren't already on a stockpile that accepts them and carry them to the appropriate stockpile. It's important to place your stockpiles carefully to minimize the amount of time spent carrying items to and from them.

== Allocating stockpiles ==

To allocate an area as a stockpile, use the {{key|p}} menu. The right-hand menu pane will list all the stockpile categories, and the appropriate key to press to begin allocating that type. Allocating an area works exactly the same as designating an area. Press {{k|Enter}} to specify the first corner of the stockpile, use the primary movement keys to move the cursor to the opposite corner, and press {{k|Enter}} again. This will create a stockpile of the chosen type that occupies the area between the two corners specified. If the chosen area has parts that cannot be made into a stockpile, like a wall, a workshop, or an already existing stockpile, a stockpile will be created but they will not be part of it.

Removing a stockpile works exactly the same, but choose {{key|x}}: Remove Designation. This will unallocate the area specified. It is possible to create a single stockpile with a shape other than a rectangle by using the Remove Designation tool to remove only part of the stockpile.

== Using stockpiles ==

Once a stockpile has been allocated, dwarves will automatically move items to the stockpile when they are available, and as long as the stockpile has available space. Note that the dwarves will place the item into the empty spot that is nearest to the item, ''not counting any obstructions''. Additional behaviour also includes the fact that dwarves will stockpile the ''newest'' item first, which may not necessarily be the nearest item to the stockpile.

When dwarves need an item for a particular task, they will head to the nearest (again, not counting any obstructions that may lie in the way) item of the correct type, regardless of whether it is in a stockpile or not. Apart from some exceptions, items do not have to be stockpiled at all. Players are generally advised to avoid stone stockpiles, because stone [[hauling]] jobs take an extreme amount of time for unskilled dwarves, due to the weight hauled.

One method to ensure a workshop has raw material on hand is to place a small stockpile next to the workshop. This will speed up production as the crafter in question only has to take a few steps to obtain the material. It also has a useful side-effect, in that as soon as the crafter picks up the piece of material, the stockpile will issue a new task to fetch another piece of that material. Because that crafter is busy, that hauling job will be taken by another dwarf. This speeds up a queue of jobs, as other dwarfs perform the time-consuming distant haul whilst the crafter actually makes the items.

It's not necessary to place stockpiles for all types of objects. If no storage is available for a certain item type, dwarves will seek out items wherever they might lie as mentioned earlier. This can be advantageous -- if you don't have a stockpile for gems, your [[jeweller]] will go pick up fresh gems without waiting for them to be carried to a pile first. However, this also means your jeweler has to spend a lot of time fetching the gems. If you have enough haulers available, it's generally more advantageous to designate stockpiles than not. Also remember that your workshops will get [[clutter]]ed and suffer production slowdowns if you let items pile up in them, so it's important to regularly clear out workshops when they get cluttered. This can be done either by having a stockpile available so that haulers will remove the items or by removing and rebuilding the workshop, which will empty its contents onto the ground.

== Using bins and barrels ==

Ordinarily, each item or stack (e.g. ≡Dwarven Ale Stew [59]≡) of items occupies one space of stockpile room. You can consolidate stockpile space by building [[bin]]s and [[barrel]]s that can hold many items at once. [[Barrel]]s store and preserve [[food]] and [[drink]]; [[bin]]s can store many types of smaller items, such as [[finished goods]], [[metal]] bars, [[ammo]], or [[gem]]s. Building a steady supply of containers helps reduce the space you need for storage.

It is possible to set whether bins can be used in a stockpile with {{key|q}} → {{key|C}} and {{key|q}} → {{key|V}}. For barrels, {{key|E}} and {{key|R}} are used instead of {{key|C}} and {{key|V}}. By default, bins are used in Bar/Block, Ammo, Gems, Finished Goods, Cloth and Leather stockpiles, and barrels are used in Food stockpiles. Also by default, the stockpiles that use barrels or bins to store other items will permit a barrel or bin on each of their spaces; such a stockpile will claim an empty container whenever it doesn't already have one. You can override this by specifying the maximum number of barrels and bins that an individual stockpile is allowed to utilize. To access this stockpile feature, use the {{key|q}} menu and move to the stockpile in question.

"Reserved Barrels/Bins" is a global setting that reserves a certain number of barrels or bins, preventing them from being claimed by a stockpile until they are filled by a task that requires their use. This feature is most often used to ensure that a fortress has ample empty barrels for the production of alcohol, although empty barrels are also necessary for other jobs. You can change this setting in the stockpile menu {{key|p}}. If there are 5 reserved barrels, no stockpile will claim an empty barrel until you have at least 6 lying around. In this way you can ensure that jobs like making alcohol always have free barrels available.

In the case of barrels necessary for producing [[alcohol]] (which will keep your dwarves happy and alert) and [[potash]] (which can be used as fertilizer to increase plant stack size), they do not have to be located on a furniture stockpile. This is because the "Store Item in <container>" task only looks at Furniture stockpiles for available containers. Normal production tasks behave as mentioned earlier, they will just grab the nearest barrel. You can exert some limited control over this by setting a number of reserved barrels; however, you cannot set where these barrels will be.

== Take from a stockpile ==

Another feature of stockpiles, currently in a limited form, allows you to tell dwarves to fill one stockpile not only with unstockpiled items, but also those located on another stockpile that accepts those items. To specify such a flow, use the {{key|q}} menu, and highlight the ''destination'' stockpile. Press {{key|t}}, and confusingly the right hand menu will empty out. Don't worry, using the cursor, highlight another stockpile and press [Enter]. Your chosen stockpile will now list the stockpile it will take from. This will cause items in the second stockpile to be hauled to the first stockpile.

Taking from a stockpile can only happen one way. Telling stockpile #4 to take from #13 will stop #13 from taking from #4. This is probably a good thing, otherwise your dwarves will continuously move items between the two stockpiles. To be truly evil though, you can introduce a third stockpile, at which point #4 taking from #12, #12 taking from #13, and #13 taking from #4, is perfectly valid.

One stockpile can be set to take from any number of other stockpiles, so in theory it is possible to construct supply chains of material. For example, you may have a small stone stockpile next to some mason's workshops, and a much bigger 'central' stone stockpile. Using this feature, you can get your dwarves to keep the workshop stockpile filled from the central stockpile.

== Stockpile categories ==

===[[Ammo]]===
This stockpile contains ammo for all forms of ammunition-requiring weaponry is stored here. It can use bins to consolidate up to 100 units of ammo. Since the only ammo dwarves can currently use is [[crossbow]] [[bolt]]s, it might be wise to disallow arrows and blowdarts.

===[[Animal]]===
Animals stored in [[cage]]s that are not affixed to a location will be stored in these stockpiles. [[Trap]]s used for capturing wild animals and empty [[cage]]s are also stored here.

===[[Armor]]===
Armor of all types is stored here. This kind of stockpile can use bins to consolidate up to 10 items. There is no preference for specific body parts.

===[[Bar]]/[[Block]]===
Bars of smelted metal and blocks of cut stone are kept here after being processed by the smelter and mason's workshops, before being used for other purposes. Weirdly, ashes, potash, charcoal, and coke from the wood furnace, ashery, and smelter will also be stored here. Like with all stockpiles, this can be changed to allow for specific blocks and bars to be stored with custom settings. Bins can be used to consolidate up to 10 bars and blocks.

===[[Cloth]]===
Woven cloth and thread from the loom is stored here. Bins can be used to consolidate up to 10 items.

===[[Coins]]===
Minted coins are kept here. Bins can be used to consolidate up to 3000 coins, which is equivalent to six new coins stacks.

===[[Finished Goods]]===
Finished goods created by the craftsdwarf's workshop, as well as the clothes maker's shop and the leather works, are placed here before being used in trade or other uses. This type of stockpile can use bins to consolidate up to 25 items.

===[[Food]]===
As one would assume based on the name, food is stored here. Unexpectedly, though, tallow, lye, giant desert scorpion venom, and liquid fire are as well. Up to 10 food items may be stored in a barrel (and the stack +Cow meat roast [8]+ would count as eight items). Fresh [[fish]] and animals are brought here before being processed by the butchery and fishery and turned into raw meats. The raw meat is then brought to the kitchen for cooking. Note that prepared food stacks larger than ten (☼Dwarven Beer Roast [200]☼ is possible) will not fit in a barrel, but will not rot once placed in a food stockpile, and still only take up one space. To free up barrels, you may decide to have separate prepared food stockpiles that do not accept barrels. If you cook larger meals, this shouldn't be a problem.
Food stockpiles should in most cases be specified as things like seed stockpiles or meat stockpiles or unprepared fish stockpiles; there are simply too many things that go in them.

===[[Furniture]] Storage===
Completed items from the carpenter's workshop, mason's workshop, and mechanic's workshop will be stored here, along with furniture created from other shops, until placed or used in another building. Since this is a very broad category, like food, generally more specific stockpiles should be created.

===[[Gem]]===
This stockpile stores gems, both cut and uncut, before being used in a construction. It can use bins to consolidate up to 10 gems.

===[[Graveyard]]===
Dead dwarves and pets that have no burial location will be placed here. If placed indoors, decaying bodies will generate [[miasma]], but bones will not removed at the end of the season. 
Are dwarf and pet bones removed at the end of the season ever? --[[User:Savok|Savok]]

===[[Leather]]===
Leather, which is produced at a Tanner's Shop, will be kept here. Like most stockpiles that use bins, it can use bins to consolidate up to 10 items.

===[[refuse stockpile|Refuse]]===
Since dwarves hate rot because of the miasma it spreads when in an enclosed place like a cave, any garbage item that can rot will be stored in a refuse stockpile. Many players prefer to place this stockpile outside your cavern, usually a small distance from the entrance, an alternative to this is to dig channels down from outside creating an outside area inside your fortress you can place your refuse stockpile here and whilst it will be in your fort it wont generate miasma. If placed indoors, decaying items will generate miasma, which will generate a small unhappy thought in any dwarf passing through it. Bones and shells are also stored here, whether they be from defeated enemies or raw food processing. Outdoor refuse stockpiles are emptied at the turn of the seasons, but indoor refuse stockpiles are not, so you may wish to make an indoor refuse stockpile that takes bones from the outdoor stockpile.

===[[Stone]]===
Rough stone will be stored here, as well as ore. Given the extreme abundance of stone, it is very likely for this stockpile to fill up quickly, if the hauling is ever completed, meaning that the player may want to create several stone stockpiles, or possibly one giant one. It is a good idea to position these stockpiles close to your mason's workshop or your mechanic's workshop. An alternative option is to merely make a small stockpile near your masons and leave stones where they lie, eliminating dwarves running around carrying stone all the time. This can have the effect of blocking expandable types of construction if there is not enough space around to move the stones into. Some dwarves regard the existence of stone stockpiles as a sign of divine displeasure, cursing dwarves to scurry around the fortress carrying rock to and fro for all eternity. To avoid stone hauling when you don't want it, set the dwarves to ignore minerals in {{key|o}}rders and options.

===[[Weapon]]s===
Weapons of all types are stored here by default, including the weapons that dwarves do not use and trap components. Bins can be used to consolidate up to 10 weapons of any type.

===[[Wood]]===
Chopped trees are brought to the wood stockpile before being used by the carpenter's workshop. Given the relative scarcity of trees, a wood stockpile need not be too large. It is a good idea to position this stockpile close to your carpenter's workshop.

=== Custom stockpiles ===

With custom stockpiles you can change which types of materials, goods, ect, can be stored in that pile. Any types of things can be mixed, so you could have a stockpile that will hold raw turtle, mechanisms and all stone types apart from onyx if you wanted. Highlighting a stockpile with {{key|q}}, then pressing {{key|s}} will allow you to adjust the stockpile settings or in the {{key|p}} menu you can press {{key|t}} to adjust a custom stockpiles settings before placing it with {{key|c}}.

== Stockpile Settings ==
The '''Stockpile Settings''' screen is weird to use. In the first column are the major categories. In the second column there may or may not be subcategories. In the third you will see the individual items. The second and third columns are only visible when a category is enabled and selected.

You navigate this screen with {{key|+}} and {{key|-}}, and left and right on the arrow keys. {{key|e}} and {{key|d}} are used to enable and disable the categories. {{key|a}} and {{key|b}} are used to allow or disallow all the subcategories. {{key|p}} and {{key|f}} will permit of forbid individual subcategories. These six keys work no matter which column you have selected, though the last 4 will not always be avaliable. {{key|Enter}} will toggle individual item types.

== Notes ==
Some categories will have a special extra type of item(s) that can be toggled with {{key|u}} and sometimes {{key|j}}.
*Categories - Item type
*Animals - Empty cages and Empty animal traps
*Food - Prepared food
*Furniture - Sand bag
*Weapons - Local and Foreign
*Armor - Local and Foreign

If you disable an item or items that are already sitting in a stockpile then they become loose items and your dwarves will move them to a more suitable stockpile should one exist.

One use for this is to have an outdoor stockpile that will accept all refuse except bone and shell, and then an indoor pile near to your craftdwarf's workshop that will '''only''' accept these things. That way, once all the meat has rotted off of any carcases outside, the bones will be brought in for processing rather than disappearing at the end of the season. While this strategy can be useful, it only works if you have set the option for dwarves to gather refuse from outside. Otherwise, the dwarves will ignore the bones in the outside stockpile. This means added risk to your dwarves if they try to gather refuse that is far from your gate, and a potentially large amount of useless hauling.

Another effective use of custom stockpiles is Elven trading. Make a stockpile just for elf-safe trade goods: most categories where it's relevant have a 'materials' option.

This feature is probably most useful for food, furniture, and bar/block stockpiles, to prevent your lye and venom sitting next to the kitchens, your floodgates and mechanisms near the rooms that need statues and doors, your stone blocks next to the forges, and your metal bars by the farms.

[[Category:Stockpiles]]
[[Category:Items]]

40d:Goblin

2007-11-11T16:27:21Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Living among them */

'''Goblins''' are intelligent [[humanoid]] [[creatures]] that live in dark fortresses in the [[mountain]]s. They are primarily interested in killing [[Dwarf|dwarves]]. They will [[siege]] any sufficiently wealthy fortress, and frequently employ [[troll]]s in their armies to destroy [[door]]s and other [[building]]s.

== Living among them ==

Starting a fortress with a goblin stronghold in the local area is not for the faint of heart. If you take on this challenge, be careful in choosing a starting position; if your wagon starts inside the stronghold, your dwarves will come to a brief and bloody end. Reclaiming the resulting miasmal pit causes a bloodless eviction of the goblins and leaves one with a broad selection of odd items scattered throughout the now deserted towers.

===Starting Equipment===
If starting in a goblin fort you should definetly ditch your anvil if you have a soil level you can probably get by bringing less food and less booze thus allowing you to bring lots of dogs, a large enough pack of dogs should be able to at least allow you to survive long enough to escape the fort and start buildign your own any which survive will also provide you with a nice source of meat.

{{Notice Box|In Progress|This article needs to be expanded. Please add appropriate information.}}

40d Talk:Smelting

2007-11-11T16:16:36Z

Thatguyyaknow:

How does the melt option for items work, If I set things to melt and pick melt and item for the smelter it just seems to ignore it and pick ones I haven't marked. But if it works like dump I have no idea how to set a zone for it. --[[User:Shades|Shades]] 17:37, 4 November 2007 (EST)

:Really? mine only melts the items I checked, at least the last time I checked. (I hope). Perhaps it is a bug. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 07:11, 7 November 2007 (EST)

=== Multiple Bars ===

Anyone else notice that when you smelt a multiple bar ore you alwas get the copper in the case of galenga? Perhaps the same is true for tetrdite. At the moment it looks like you get only one bar, while you have a chance for to. At least in my experience. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 07:11, 7 November 2007 (EST)
:Perhaps you might be right. It does not say if you have a chance to get lead in the case of Galena, or if you have a chance to get copper with Tetrahedrite. It may be you always get these bars, and have a chance at a second bar. I will have to check but I didn't look too closely at the time that I did this.--[[User:Chthon|Chthon]] 12:05, 7 November 2007 (EST)

::Just confirmed it, the silver is the addition. The other ones are always generated. Just like the ores say ingame. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 15:18, 8 November 2007 (EST)

===Word Choice===
"Note that galena smelted alone often produces lead which is only used in producing lay pewter, a low quality ore"
Pewter != ore. I would have fixed it, but I'm not sure of the proper wording. [[User:Mephisto|Mephisto]] 09:40, 7 November 2007 (EST)

===Page disconnection===
Has anyone noticed that this page seems to have been disconnected from the rest of the wiki at this moment? If someone knows where I can find a link to it, I'd appreciate it. I only linked where I did because that was where the old wiki had this kind of information. --[[User:Chthon|Chthon]] 12:07, 7 November 2007 (EST)

===20% and 50%===
does this mean once i smelt 5 (or 2) of these bars i will get 1 of that bar or there is a 50/20% chance of getting that bar as well as the other one

40d Talk:Smelting

2007-11-11T16:16:08Z

Thatguyyaknow:

How does the melt option for items work, If I set things to melt and pick melt and item for the smelter it just seems to ignore it and pick ones I haven't marked. But if it works like dump I have no idea how to set a zone for it. --[[User:Shades|Shades]] 17:37, 4 November 2007 (EST)

:Really? mine only melts the items I checked, at least the last time I checked. (I hope). Perhaps it is a bug. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 07:11, 7 November 2007 (EST)

=== Multiple Bars ===

Anyone else notice that when you smelt a multiple bar ore you alwas get the copper in the case of galenga? Perhaps the same is true for tetrdite. At the moment it looks like you get only one bar, while you have a chance for to. At least in my experience. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 07:11, 7 November 2007 (EST)
:Perhaps you might be right. It does not say if you have a chance to get lead in the case of Galena, or if you have a chance to get copper with Tetrahedrite. It may be you always get these bars, and have a chance at a second bar. I will have to check but I didn't look too closely at the time that I did this.--[[User:Chthon|Chthon]] 12:05, 7 November 2007 (EST)

::Just confirmed it, the silver is the addition. The other ones are always generated. Just like the ores say ingame. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 15:18, 8 November 2007 (EST)

===Word Choice===
"Note that galena smelted alone often produces lead which is only used in producing lay pewter, a low quality ore"
Pewter != ore. I would have fixed it, but I'm not sure of the proper wording. [[User:Mephisto|Mephisto]] 09:40, 7 November 2007 (EST)

===Page disconnection===
Has anyone noticed that this page seems to have been disconnected from the rest of the wiki at this moment? If someone knows where I can find a link to it, I'd appreciate it. I only linked where I did because that was where the old wiki had this kind of information. --[[User:Chthon|Chthon]] 12:07, 7 November 2007 (EST)

==20% and 50%==
does this mean once i smelt 5 (or 2) of these bars i will get 1 of that bar or there is a 50/20% chance of getting that bar as well as the other one

40d:Cheating

2007-11-11T09:27:20Z

Thatguyyaknow:

Come on guys n gals, share with us your infinite knowledge of tricks and outright haxxoring the memory.

==Easy Adamantinite==
copy:

[REACTION:ADAMANTINE_WAFERS]

[NAME:make adamantine wafers]

[SMELTER]

[REAGENT:1:METAL_ORE:----]

[PRODUCT:100:1:BAR:NO_SUBTYPE:METAL:ADAMANTINE]

into the raws replacing ---- with any easily available ore on your map. next time you load up df you can get adamantinite from the ore you entered

==River freeze==
by turning tempreture to NO in the .init file you can freeze the river in cold environments (even during summer) allowing you to do anything you need to do before unfreezing it, this is especially useful for retriving items or for digging tunnels straight up to water sources without it flooding

==Savescumming==

!WARNING! Savescumming has been known to cause inflate errors.

Savescumming refers to the practice of regularly backing up your saves so you can revert to one if your fortress crumbles to the last. This can be toggled to be done automatically in the init file, so some might not consider this to be cheating.

Another method to save scum is open up task manager (ctrl+alt+delete) and open the Processes tab, and then selecting dwarfort.exe and clicking on end task. This will cause dwarf fortress to close, without overwriting the last saved game.

==Memory Editing==

''[[:Memory editing|Main article: Memory editing]]''

Memory editing refers to using an external program to modify numbers within the game. This is at its most useful when choosing what to take with you, as you can give yourself an unlimited number of points. What doesn't work in the new version is giving your starting dwarves tons of prof skills, since there now is a limit in how many skills they can start with. You can still start your dwarves with all proficient skills, but you need to change the skill limit value first on every dwarf you want to do this with.

Don't forget, Cheat-O-Matic is a very easy to use tool for memory hacking, use it to change starting points, the dwarf skill limits, etc.

{| style="width: 100%; background: #ddd; border: 1px solid #777; border-left-color:#bbb; border-top-color:#bbb;"
|+ style="color: #fff; background: #999; border: 1px solid #777; border-left-color:#bbb; border-top-color:#bbb; padding: 0.2em 0.5em; text-align: center" | '''Links'''
|-
! style="text-align: left; padding: 0.1em 0.5em" | Various Memory Hacking Tools:
| [http://wpepro.net/index.php?categoryid=9&p13_sectionid=1&p13_fileid=79?&category=3 WPE Pro/PermEdit/Tsearch], [http://www.artmoney.ru/?threadid=2669677 ARTMONEY], [http://www.developerfusion.co.uk/show/2426/?t=38984 Cheat-O-Matic],
[http://cheatengine.org/?t=38984 Cheat Engine]
|}
[[Category:Guides]]

40d:Starting builds

2007-11-10T10:39:17Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Wooden Town */

40d:Starting builds

2007-11-10T10:37:42Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Wooden Town */

40d:Cheating

2007-11-10T10:35:34Z

Thatguyyaknow:

Come on guys n gals, share with us your infinite knowledge of tricks and outright haxxoring the memory.

==Easy Adamantinite==
copy:

[REACTION:ADAMANTINE_WAFERS]
[NAME:make adamantine wafers]
[SMELTER]
[REAGENT:1:METAL_ORE:----]
[PRODUCT:100:1:BAR:NO_SUBTYPE:METAL:ADAMANTINE]
[FUEL]

into the raws replacing ---- with any easily available ore on your map. next time you load up df you can get adamantinite from the ore you entered

==River freeze==
by turning tempreture to NO in the .init file you can freeze the river in cold environments (even during summer) allowing you to do anything you need to do before unfreezing it, this is especially useful for retriving items or for digging tunnels straight up to water sources without it flooding

==Savescumming==

!WARNING! Savescumming has been known to cause inflate errors.

Savescumming refers to the practice of regularly backing up your saves so you can revert to one if your fortress crumbles to the last. This can be toggled to be done automatically in the init file, so some might not consider this to be cheating.

Another method to save scum is open up task manager (ctrl+alt+delete) and open the Processes tab, and then selecting dwarfort.exe and clicking on end task. This will cause dwarf fortress to close, without overwriting the last saved game.

==Memory Editing==

''[[:Memory editing|Main article: Memory editing]]''

Memory editing refers to using an external program to modify numbers within the game. This is at its most useful when choosing what to take with you, as you can give yourself an unlimited number of points. What doesn't work in the new version is giving your starting dwarves tons of prof skills, since there now is a limit in how many skills they can start with. You can still start your dwarves with all proficient skills, but you need to change the skill limit value first on every dwarf you want to do this with.

Don't forget, Cheat-O-Matic is a very easy to use tool for memory hacking, use it to change starting points, the dwarf skill limits, etc.

{| style="width: 100%; background: #ddd; border: 1px solid #777; border-left-color:#bbb; border-top-color:#bbb;"
|+ style="color: #fff; background: #999; border: 1px solid #777; border-left-color:#bbb; border-top-color:#bbb; padding: 0.2em 0.5em; text-align: center" | '''Links'''
|-
! style="text-align: left; padding: 0.1em 0.5em" | Various Memory Hacking Tools:
| [http://wpepro.net/index.php?categoryid=9&p13_sectionid=1&p13_fileid=79?&category=3 WPE Pro/PermEdit/Tsearch], [http://www.artmoney.ru/?threadid=2669677 ARTMONEY], [http://www.developerfusion.co.uk/show/2426/?t=38984 Cheat-O-Matic],
[http://cheatengine.org/?t=38984 Cheat Engine]
|}
[[Category:Guides]]

40d:Cheating

2007-11-10T10:35:14Z

Thatguyyaknow:

Come on guys n gals, share with us your infinite knowledge of tricks and outright haxxoring the memory.

==Easy Adamantinite
copy:
[REACTION:ADAMANTINE_WAFERS]
[NAME:make adamantine wafers]
[SMELTER]
[REAGENT:1:METAL_ORE:----]
[PRODUCT:100:1:BAR:NO_SUBTYPE:METAL:ADAMANTINE]
[FUEL]
into the raws replacing ---- with any easily available ore on your map. next time you load up df you can get adamantinite from the ore you entered

==River freeze==
by turning tempreture to NO in the .init file you can freeze the river in cold environments (even during summer) allowing you to do anything you need to do before unfreezing it, this is especially useful for retriving items or for digging tunnels straight up to water sources without it flooding

==Savescumming==

!WARNING! Savescumming has been known to cause inflate errors.

Savescumming refers to the practice of regularly backing up your saves so you can revert to one if your fortress crumbles to the last. This can be toggled to be done automatically in the init file, so some might not consider this to be cheating.

Another method to save scum is open up task manager (ctrl+alt+delete) and open the Processes tab, and then selecting dwarfort.exe and clicking on end task. This will cause dwarf fortress to close, without overwriting the last saved game.

==Memory Editing==

''[[:Memory editing|Main article: Memory editing]]''

Memory editing refers to using an external program to modify numbers within the game. This is at its most useful when choosing what to take with you, as you can give yourself an unlimited number of points. What doesn't work in the new version is giving your starting dwarves tons of prof skills, since there now is a limit in how many skills they can start with. You can still start your dwarves with all proficient skills, but you need to change the skill limit value first on every dwarf you want to do this with.

Don't forget, Cheat-O-Matic is a very easy to use tool for memory hacking, use it to change starting points, the dwarf skill limits, etc.

{| style="width: 100%; background: #ddd; border: 1px solid #777; border-left-color:#bbb; border-top-color:#bbb;"
|+ style="color: #fff; background: #999; border: 1px solid #777; border-left-color:#bbb; border-top-color:#bbb; padding: 0.2em 0.5em; text-align: center" | '''Links'''
|-
! style="text-align: left; padding: 0.1em 0.5em" | Various Memory Hacking Tools:
| [http://wpepro.net/index.php?categoryid=9&p13_sectionid=1&p13_fileid=79?&category=3 WPE Pro/PermEdit/Tsearch], [http://www.artmoney.ru/?threadid=2669677 ARTMONEY], [http://www.developerfusion.co.uk/show/2426/?t=38984 Cheat-O-Matic],
[http://cheatengine.org/?t=38984 Cheat Engine]
|}
[[Category:Guides]]

40d:Trap

2007-11-09T23:06:07Z

Thatguyyaknow: /* Weapon Trap */

Traps are a reliable and cost-effective method for defending any fortress. Unlike soldiers, they're always on duty, and don't need to be carefully managed. On the other hand, they are immobile and can only lie in wait for foes to walk over them. To build a trap, go to the {{k|b}}uild->Traps/Levers menu. You'll generally need one [[mechanism]], and at least one other component depending on the type of trap. They can be built indoors or outdoors, and require a level ground square with no other constructions in them. There are a few monsters, most notably kobold thieves, that are able to pass over traps without triggering them.

==Stone-fall Trap==
The simplest trap to construct, a stone-fall trap is essentially a stone suspended up in the air which is dropped on intruders when the trap is triggered. These are a popular defensive measure early on, as the components needed are readily available as soon as you start mining. A single stone trap will kill or severely maim most humanoid enemies although trolls, magmamen and hardier creatures may take two or three to drop. Mythical creatures such as dragons, hydras and titans will take upwards of five or six. After being used they need to be reloaded with another stone, a task which your dwarves will see to automatically. Stone traps can now be built outside.
:Shortcut {{k|s}}
:Components used: [[mechanism]] and an ordinary [[stone]]

==Weapon Trap==
Weapon traps consist of any number of deadly instruments rigged to a mechanism. When an intruder sets off the trap, the weapons spring out and strike the poor sap. You can add up to 10 weapons to a weapon trap, and they will all attack together when set off. This gives the potential for dealing signifocant amounts of damage at once. There are also special giant weapon parts you can build that are specially designed for use in weapon traps. Unlike stone-fall traps, weapon traps automatically reset after being triggered, ready to splatter the intruder's friends. But there is a (20%?)chance that the trap will become jammed each time it is triggered. Dwarves will automatically clean jammed traps. If there are weapons that require ammunition in the trap, they will also have to be reloaded occasionally. Weapon traps using bows or crossbows will not require cleaning but do use ammo.
:Shortcut {{k|w}}
:Components used: [[mechanism]] and whatever [[weapon]]s you want.

==Cage Trap==
Cage traps capture creatures that set them off in [[cage]]s. After a creature is captured it's stored, cage and all, in an appropriate animal stockpile. Then the trap is reloaded with another cage. You can do all sorts of fun things with [[captured creatures]]. Creatures in cages will be fed periodically.
:Shortcut {{k|c}}
:Components used: [[mechanism]] and a [[cage]].

==Upright Spear/Spike==
These are not active traps, but a hazard you can place in order to impale trespassers. You can combine these with retracting bridges to create a spike-filled pit trap. You may need to clean the corpses off the pointy bits occasionally.
:Shortcut {{k|S}} (capitalized)
:Components used: [[spear]]s or [[spike]]s.

==Other Traps==
You can create even more elaborate traps with imaginative use of pits, pressure plates, levers, grates, supports, water, magma, and whatever else you can think of. Watching those goblins try to find a way out of your drowning chamber as it begins to fill is really quite satisfying.

[[Category:Traps]]
[[Category:Fortress Defense]]