Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

Yak

2014-10-20T16:20:14Z

Tacomagic: Removed the comment indicating that they need significant pasturing. Grazing change introduced in 40.13 significantly reduced the amount of pasture Yaks need to survive, making them viable for both milk/cheese and wool industry.

{{Quality|Fine|20:34, 3 March 2013 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|meat=13-21
|fat=8-9
|eye=2
|lung=2
|heart=1
|intestine=2
|liver=1
|tripe=1
|sweetbread=1
|spleen=1
|kidney=2
|brain=1
|bone=16
|skull=1
|horn=2
|hair=1
|hoof=4
|cartilage=1
|skin=hide
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{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}
'''Yaks''' are large, [[milk]]able domestic animals. Previous to 40.13, they required significant [[pasture]]land to survive, making them poorly suited as livestock for a [[meat industry]]. However, the grazing change in 40.13 significantly reduced the pasture area required to keep Yaks alive. They now make a reasonable choice for meat industry animals as they produce high quantities of meat while also producing milk.

Yaks can serve as pack animals and are a common sight in [[Trading|merchant]] [[caravan]]s. The males of the species are known as "yak bulls", while the females are known as "yak cows".

Some dwarves like yaks "for their shaggy hair".
[[Image:Bos grunniens at Letdar on Annapurna Circuit.jpg|thumb|left|400px]]

{{Gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Pump-stack method

2014-10-11T21:28:15Z

Tacomagic: /* Appendix B: More efficient top setup */

{{Quality|Exceptional|21:52, 24 September 2014 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. This tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

Links to Kingubu's videos as well as one made by TacoMagic are in the links section at the end of the tutorial.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one column at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one column at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one column at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last column! Once this column is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the right, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one column at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that lack of cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another column into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Appendix A: No Stone Version ==

It is entirely possible to do this method without using any stone at all. It requires 3 more pumps in place of the mechanisms at a net increase in power cost of 15. Doing the method without stone only changes the top of the stack, and the first aquifer level.

To start, follow along with the normal steps until you reach the point just before you build the two pumps on the top of the aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|You want the top to look like this.]]
|}

Instead of building 2 pumps and a mechanism, instead build 3 pumps in a row. After that, you'll want to build a single pump hanging from the southern pump, and the water wheel hanging from the same pump. Of note, the hanging pump will need to be set so that it's pumping towards the pump it is attached to.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_pump_top.png|frame|left|3 pumps all pumping East to West.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_wheel_top.png‎|frame|left|Add a water wheel to the bottom pump, and then hang a pump off the other end. The hanging pump is pumping East to West.]]
|}

From there, proceed as normal until you have the two channels cut into the aquifer level.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_channeled.png|frame|left|This step. First aquifer level, 2 slits channeled.]]
|}

First, build a screw pump pumping towards the wall in the lower left-hand corner. This will hang from the aquifer above. From there, build the two pumps as normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_transpump.png|frame|left|The power-transfer pump. It's pumping East to West, toward the wall.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_pumps.png‎|frame|left|Build the other two pumps as normal, pumping from the East out of the channel there.]]
|}

And that's it. The rest of the breach proceeds as normal. So, the only difference between the normal method and this one is that you're using 3 pumps as power-transfer units. So, if you've got lots of trees and don't want to bring any stone with you, all you need is 15 extra power and you can leave the stone at mountainhome.

== Appendix B: More efficient top setup ==

This is a more efficient layout for the top stack, but it requires a little more planning, and an extra step when deconstructing (unless you don't mind losing a log or four).

To do this version, get to the point where you're ready to dig out your top layer, but instead of a 10x6 chamber, make an 11x5 chamber (or 10x5 if you suspect you have less than 3 aquifer layers). Then follow the steps below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump aquifer effecient top start.png‎|frame|left|Dig out, channel, and dig stairs as above. Make sure to dig out up/down stairs under those downward stairs, failing to do that will cause the pump room to flood. You can do this with a 10x5 chamber if you have 3 or fewer aquifer layers. 11x5 gives you enough room for a second water wheel.]]
| [[Image:Pump aquifer effecient top axes.png|frame|left|Build 2 horizontal axes as above.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump aquifer effecient top third.png|frame|left|Build either a pump pumping from the east or a gear assembly at the end of the staircase axis. This will transmit the power down to the pump stack, removing the need to build anything for power transfer on the first aquifer layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump aquifer effecient top finished.png|frame|left|Finally, build a water wheel off the drain axis. If you want to add another wheel, you will need to channel out another 3 tiles to the west of the drain.]]
|}

From here forward, complete each layer as the continuation of the pump stack. You will not need to build anything special for power-transmission on the first aquifer level since power will transmit from the gear/pump that was built on the staircase. This method of building the top saves quite a bit of power over the standard method shown in the main tutorial.

Of note: The downward stairs provide a place for workers to stand when building and deconstructing the horizontal axis. Using channels will prevent access and cause the axis to show up as unbuildable.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post].

Kingubu's multi-layer pump-stack [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ewHfJw9HCw&feature=youtu.be tutorial video].

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOR8fG4fhX8&feature=youtu.be A single-layer variation video], also by Kingubu.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FmXM6PGUXA&list=UUuVhjOjVRS1cF8tpHa8WPPw Tutorial Video] created by TacoMagic.

[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=9881 A fully-explorable step-by-step Pump-Stack Method sandbox embark]. This was an embark put together by TacoMagic as supplementary material for this tutorial. It includes a readme file with a step-by-step description of the embark.

File:Pump aquifer effecient top finished.png

2014-10-11T21:24:39Z

Tacomagic: Tacomagic uploaded a new version of "File:Pump aquifer effecient top finished.png"

File:Pump aquifer effecient top third.png

2014-10-11T21:24:19Z

Tacomagic: Tacomagic uploaded a new version of "File:Pump aquifer effecient top third.png"

File:Pump aquifer effecient top axes.png

2014-10-11T21:23:56Z

Tacomagic: Tacomagic uploaded a new version of "File:Pump aquifer effecient top axes.png"

File:Pump aquifer effecient top start.png

2014-10-11T21:22:38Z

Tacomagic: Tacomagic uploaded a new version of "File:Pump aquifer effecient top start.png"

Pump-stack method

2014-10-11T20:26:23Z

Tacomagic: Added more efficient top setup

{{Quality|Exceptional|21:52, 24 September 2014 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. This tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

Links to Kingubu's videos as well as one made by TacoMagic are in the links section at the end of the tutorial.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one column at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one column at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one column at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last column! Once this column is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the right, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one column at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that lack of cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another column into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Appendix A: No Stone Version ==

It is entirely possible to do this method without using any stone at all. It requires 3 more pumps in place of the mechanisms at a net increase in power cost of 15. Doing the method without stone only changes the top of the stack, and the first aquifer level.

To start, follow along with the normal steps until you reach the point just before you build the two pumps on the top of the aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|You want the top to look like this.]]
|}

Instead of building 2 pumps and a mechanism, instead build 3 pumps in a row. After that, you'll want to build a single pump hanging from the southern pump, and the water wheel hanging from the same pump. Of note, the hanging pump will need to be set so that it's pumping towards the pump it is attached to.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_pump_top.png|frame|left|3 pumps all pumping East to West.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_wheel_top.png‎|frame|left|Add a water wheel to the bottom pump, and then hang a pump off the other end. The hanging pump is pumping East to West.]]
|}

From there, proceed as normal until you have the two channels cut into the aquifer level.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_channeled.png|frame|left|This step. First aquifer level, 2 slits channeled.]]
|}

First, build a screw pump pumping towards the wall in the lower left-hand corner. This will hang from the aquifer above. From there, build the two pumps as normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_transpump.png|frame|left|The power-transfer pump. It's pumping East to West, toward the wall.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_pumps.png‎|frame|left|Build the other two pumps as normal, pumping from the East out of the channel there.]]
|}

And that's it. The rest of the breach proceeds as normal. So, the only difference between the normal method and this one is that you're using 3 pumps as power-transfer units. So, if you've got lots of trees and don't want to bring any stone with you, all you need is 15 extra power and you can leave the stone at mountainhome.

== Appendix B: More efficient top setup ==

This is a more efficient layout for the top stack, but it requires a little more planning, and an extra step when deconstructing (unless you don't mind losing a log or four).

To do this version, get to the point where you're ready to dig out your top layer, but instead of a 10x6 chamber, make an 11x5 chamber (or 10x5 if you suspect you have less than 3 aquifer layers). Then follow the steps below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump aquifer effecient top start.png‎|frame|left|Dig our and channel as above. You can do this with a 10x5 chamber if you have 3 or fewer aquifer layers. 11x5 gives you enough room for a second water wheel.]]
| [[Image:Pump aquifer effecient top axes.png|frame|left|Build 2 horizontal axes as above.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump aquifer effecient top third.png|frame|left|Channel out the tile just south of the axis over the drain (this prevents flooding) and then build either a pump pumping from the east or a gear assembly at the end of the staircase axis. This will transmit the power down to the pump stack, removing the need to build anything for power transfer on the first aquifer layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump aquifer effecient top finished.png|frame|left|Finally, build a water wheel off the drain axis. If you want to add another wheel, you will need to channel out another 3 tiles to the west of the drain.]]
|}

From here forward, complete each layer as the continuation of the pump stack. You will not need to build anything special for power-transmission on the first level since power will transmit from the gear/pump that was built on the staircase. This method of building the top saves quite a bit of power over the standard method shown in the main tutorial.

Of note: When deconstructing the drain area, you'll need to build a piece of floor adjacent to the axis in order to remove it, otherwise it'll be inaccessible. If you don't care about losing some wood, deconsructing the pump the axis is connected to will drop it into the drain, where it will deconstruct into a log (along with any water wheels that are still connected to it).

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post].

Kingubu's multi-layer pump-stack [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ewHfJw9HCw&feature=youtu.be tutorial video].

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOR8fG4fhX8&feature=youtu.be A single-layer variation video], also by Kingubu.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FmXM6PGUXA&list=UUuVhjOjVRS1cF8tpHa8WPPw Tutorial Video] created by TacoMagic.

[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=9881 A fully-explorable step-by-step Pump-Stack Method sandbox embark]. This was an embark put together by TacoMagic as supplementary material for this tutorial. It includes a readme file with a step-by-step description of the embark.

File:Pump aquifer effecient top finished.png

2014-10-11T20:08:45Z

Tacomagic:

File:Pump aquifer effecient top third.png

2014-10-11T20:05:40Z

Tacomagic:

File:Pump aquifer effecient top axes.png

2014-10-11T20:04:44Z

Tacomagic:

File:Pump aquifer effecient top start.png

2014-10-11T20:01:23Z

Tacomagic:

Pump-stack method

2014-10-09T02:07:54Z

Tacomagic: Added link to additional reference material.

{{Quality|Exceptional|21:52, 24 September 2014 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one column at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one column at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one column at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last column! Once this column is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the right, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one column at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that lack of cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another column into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Appendix A: No Stone Version ==

It is entirely possible to do this method without using any stone at all. It requires 3 more pumps in place of the mechanisms at a net increase in power cost of 15. Doing the method without stone only changes the top of the stack, and the first aquifer level.

To start, follow along with the normal steps until you reach the point just before you build the two pumps on the top of the aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|You want the top to look like this.]]
|}

Instead of building 2 pumps and a mechanism, instead build 3 pumps in a row. After that, you'll want to build a single pump hanging from the southern pump, and the water wheel hanging from the same pump. Of note, the hanging pump will need to be set so that it's pumping towards the pump it is attached to.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_pump_top.png|frame|left|3 pumps all pumping East to West.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_wheel_top.png‎|frame|left|Add a water wheel to the bottom pump, and then hang a pump off the other end. The hanging pump is pumping East to West.]]
|}

From there, proceed as normal until you have the two channels cut into the aquifer level.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_channeled.png|frame|left|This step. First aquifer level, 2 slits channeled.]]
|}

First, build a screw pump pumping towards the wall in the lower left-hand corner. This will hang from the aquifer above. From there, build the two pumps as normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_transpump.png|frame|left|The power-transfer pump. It's pumping East to West, toward the wall.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_pumps.png‎|frame|left|Build the other two pumps as normal, pumping from the East out of the channel there.]]
|}

And that's it. The rest of the breach proceeds as normal. So, the only difference between the normal method and this one is that you're using 3 pumps as power-transfer units. So, if you've got lots of trees and don't want to bring any stone with you, all you need is 15 extra power and you can leave the stone at mountainhome.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FmXM6PGUXA&list=UUuVhjOjVRS1cF8tpHa8WPPw Tutorial Video] created by TacoMagic.

[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=9881 A fully-explorable step-by-step Pump-Stack Method sandbox embark]. This was an embark put together by TacoMagic as supplementary material for this tutorial. It includes a readme file with a step-by-step description of the embark.

Pump-stack method

2014-10-05T04:30:18Z

Tacomagic: /* Links */ Added tutorial video.

{{Quality|Exceptional|21:52, 24 September 2014 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one column at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one column at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one column at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last column! Once this column is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the right, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one column at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that lack of cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another column into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Appendix A: No Stone Version ==

It is entirely possible to do this method without using any stone at all. It requires 3 more pumps in place of the mechanisms at a net increase in power cost of 15. Doing the method without stone only changes the top of the stack, and the first aquifer level.

To start, follow along with the normal steps until you reach the point just before you build the two pumps on the top of the aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|You want the top to look like this.]]
|}

Instead of building 2 pumps and a mechanism, instead build 3 pumps in a row. After that, you'll want to build a single pump hanging from the southern pump, and the water wheel hanging from the same pump. Of note, the hanging pump will need to be set so that it's pumping towards the pump it is attached to.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_pump_top.png|frame|left|3 pumps all pumping East to West.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_wheel_top.png‎|frame|left|Add a water wheel to the bottom pump, and then hang a pump off the other end. The hanging pump is pumping East to West.]]
|}

From there, proceed as normal until you have the two channels cut into the aquifer level.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_channeled.png|frame|left|This step. First aquifer level, 2 slits channeled.]]
|}

First, build a screw pump pumping towards the wall in the lower left-hand corner. This will hang from the aquifer above. From there, build the two pumps as normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_transpump.png|frame|left|The power-transfer pump. It's pumping East to West, toward the wall.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_pumps.png‎|frame|left|Build the other two pumps as normal, pumping from the East out of the channel there.]]
|}

And that's it. The rest of the breach proceeds as normal. So, the only difference between the normal method and this one is that you're using 3 pumps as power-transfer units. So, if you've got lots of trees and don't want to bring any stone with you, all you need is 15 extra power and you can leave the stone at mountainhome.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FmXM6PGUXA&list=UUuVhjOjVRS1cF8tpHa8WPPw Tutorial Video] created by TacoMagic.

Magpie

2014-10-02T13:57:34Z

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Magpie man

2014-10-02T13:57:16Z

Tacomagic: Changed quality rating from "Unrated" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|13:57, 2 October 2014 (UTC)}}
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{{Creatures}}

Giant magpie

2014-10-02T13:56:56Z

Tacomagic: Changed quality rating from "Unrated" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|13:56, 2 October 2014 (UTC)}}
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{{Creaturelookup/0
|wiki=no
|contrib=yes
|kidney=2
|spleen=1
|sweetbread=1
|tripe=1
|intestine=1
|liver=1
|heart=1
|lung=2
|gizzard=1
|brain=1
|meat=17
|fat=11
|skull=1
|feather=1
|bone=24
|skin=hide|contrib=no}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}
It is a very big bird. For those who do not know what it is, it is relatively harmless and runs away
if approached.
{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}

Currency

2014-10-02T13:56:18Z

Tacomagic: Changed quality rating from "Unrated" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|13:56, 2 October 2014 (UTC)}}
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{{av}}

The game's '''currency''' is measured in "☼", called "dwarfbucks" or "db's" by some players. Each item has a specific trade [[value]] in ☼, determined by what kind of object it is, what it is made of, and (sometimes) how well it was made. Dwarfbucks are an important measure in [[trade]] for bartering goods, allowing both the [[merchant]] and [[Appraiser|trader]] to judge whether the bartered [[trade good]]s are equivalent or not.

[[File:DorfCoin.jpg|208px|thumb|right|This is a stack of 4 Scythe 2008 pewter coins. This is a pewter currency of Scythe from the year 2008. On the front of the coin is a well-designed image of a dwarf.]]

==Coins==
[[Metal crafter]]s may strike physical coins out of any [[metal]] at the [[metalsmith's forge]]. This process requires one metal [[bar]] and one unit of [[fuel]], and produces one [[stack]] of 500 coins. Each stack of coins has an effective item value of 10, meaning that the value of a stack is 10 x [[material value]] of the component metal, and a given coin is (10 x [[material value]] / 500) of the value of the metal bar that produced it. For example, [[silver]] has a material value of 10, so a stack of 500 silver coins will be worth 10 x 10 = 100☼, and each silver coin in the stack will be worth 10 x 10 / 500, or 0.2☼ (fractional ☼ values are never displayed).

Coins have their own [[stockpile]], and a [[bin]] in such a stockpile can hold over 100 stacks of 500 coins each. Coins are named based on the year they are minted and the name of your civilisation, and each coin in a given stack will be identical. For example if the year is 1058 and the name of the civilisation is Olon Ibesh, each coin in a stack of silver coins will be an "Olon Ibesh 1058 silver" coin. The coins also depict images and figures from the history of the civilisation. The images replicated on the coin can be of quality, but this does not translate into a quality grade of the coin itself. Every material and every year will get its own pair of images.

===Coins and the Dwarven Economy===
Coins are intended for use with the [[dwarven economy]], but the economy is not currently enabled. In previous editions [[copper]], [[silver]], and [[gold]] coins had monetary value in addition to their intrinsic value, and dwarves would keep personal stacks of coins as part of their personal accounts. Coins of other metals were widely known as "collector's coins."

===Coins and Combat Training===
It is possible to construct [[danger room]]s which train dwarves' [[armor user]] skills by flinging coins at them.

== Adventure Mode ==

Coins are very commonly found in [[Adventure mode|Adventure Mode]]. Virtually any intelligent being (dwarf, human etc.) you find will have coins in their inventory. Each civilization maintains its own currency, and coins minted by one civilization will not retain their value if you travel to a town belonging to a different civilization. For this reason, it can be more practical to exchange excess coinage for other small and valuable objects like [[gem]]s. Coins are also useful for throwing at enemies.

Coin values in Adventure Mode:
* Copper Coin = 1☼
* Silver Coin = 5☼
* Gold Coin = 15☼

As a curiosity, coins with quality levels can show up in adventurer mode. Bandit leaders receive quality equipment, which often results in them carrying coins with improved quality.

{{Category|Items}}
{{Category|Economy}}

Currency

2014-10-02T13:55:43Z

Tacomagic:

{{Migrated_article}}
{{quality|unrated}}{{av}}

The game's '''currency''' is measured in "☼", called "dwarfbucks" or "db's" by some players. Each item has a specific trade [[value]] in ☼, determined by what kind of object it is, what it is made of, and (sometimes) how well it was made. Dwarfbucks are an important measure in [[trade]] for bartering goods, allowing both the [[merchant]] and [[Appraiser|trader]] to judge whether the bartered [[trade good]]s are equivalent or not.

[[File:DorfCoin.jpg|208px|thumb|right|This is a stack of 4 Scythe 2008 pewter coins. This is a pewter currency of Scythe from the year 2008. On the front of the coin is a well-designed image of a dwarf.]]

==Coins==
[[Metal crafter]]s may strike physical coins out of any [[metal]] at the [[metalsmith's forge]]. This process requires one metal [[bar]] and one unit of [[fuel]], and produces one [[stack]] of 500 coins. Each stack of coins has an effective item value of 10, meaning that the value of a stack is 10 x [[material value]] of the component metal, and a given coin is (10 x [[material value]] / 500) of the value of the metal bar that produced it. For example, [[silver]] has a material value of 10, so a stack of 500 silver coins will be worth 10 x 10 = 100☼, and each silver coin in the stack will be worth 10 x 10 / 500, or 0.2☼ (fractional ☼ values are never displayed).

Coins have their own [[stockpile]], and a [[bin]] in such a stockpile can hold over 100 stacks of 500 coins each. Coins are named based on the year they are minted and the name of your civilisation, and each coin in a given stack will be identical. For example if the year is 1058 and the name of the civilisation is Olon Ibesh, each coin in a stack of silver coins will be an "Olon Ibesh 1058 silver" coin. The coins also depict images and figures from the history of the civilisation. The images replicated on the coin can be of quality, but this does not translate into a quality grade of the coin itself. Every material and every year will get its own pair of images.

===Coins and the Dwarven Economy===
Coins are intended for use with the [[dwarven economy]], but the economy is not currently enabled. In previous editions [[copper]], [[silver]], and [[gold]] coins had monetary value in addition to their intrinsic value, and dwarves would keep personal stacks of coins as part of their personal accounts. Coins of other metals were widely known as "collector's coins."

===Coins and Combat Training===
It is possible to construct [[danger room]]s which train dwarves' [[armor user]] skills by flinging coins at them.

== Adventure Mode ==

Coins are very commonly found in [[Adventure mode|Adventure Mode]]. Virtually any intelligent being (dwarf, human etc.) you find will have coins in their inventory. Each civilization maintains its own currency, and coins minted by one civilization will not retain their value if you travel to a town belonging to a different civilization. For this reason, it can be more practical to exchange excess coinage for other small and valuable objects like [[gem]]s. Coins are also useful for throwing at enemies.

Coin values in Adventure Mode:
* Copper Coin = 1☼
* Silver Coin = 5☼
* Gold Coin = 15☼

As a curiosity, coins with quality levels can show up in adventurer mode. Bandit leaders receive quality equipment, which often results in them carrying coins with improved quality.

{{Category|Items}}
{{Category|Economy}}

Currency

2014-10-02T13:55:14Z

Tacomagic: Fixed Redlink

{{Migrated_article}}
{{quality|unrated}}{{av}}

The game's '''currency''' is measured in "☼", called "dwarfbucks" or "db's" by some players. Each item has a specific trade [[value]] in ☼, determined by what kind of object it is, what it is made of, and (sometimes) how well it was made. Dwarfbucks are an important measure in [[trade]] for bartering goods, allowing both the [[merchant]] and [[trader]] to judge whether the bartered [[trade good]]s are equivalent or not.

[[File:DorfCoin.jpg|208px|thumb|right|This is a stack of 4 Scythe 2008 pewter coins. This is a pewter currency of Scythe from the year 2008. On the front of the coin is a well-designed image of a dwarf.]]

==Coins==
[[Metal crafter]]s may strike physical coins out of any [[metal]] at the [[metalsmith's forge]]. This process requires one metal [[bar]] and one unit of [[fuel]], and produces one [[stack]] of 500 coins. Each stack of coins has an effective item value of 10, meaning that the value of a stack is 10 x [[material value]] of the component metal, and a given coin is (10 x [[material value]] / 500) of the value of the metal bar that produced it. For example, [[silver]] has a material value of 10, so a stack of 500 silver coins will be worth 10 x 10 = 100☼, and each silver coin in the stack will be worth 10 x 10 / 500, or 0.2☼ (fractional ☼ values are never displayed).

Coins have their own [[stockpile]], and a [[bin]] in such a stockpile can hold over 100 stacks of 500 coins each. Coins are named based on the year they are minted and the name of your civilisation, and each coin in a given stack will be identical. For example if the year is 1058 and the name of the civilisation is Olon Ibesh, each coin in a stack of silver coins will be an "Olon Ibesh 1058 silver" coin. The coins also depict images and figures from the history of the civilisation. The images replicated on the coin can be of quality, but this does not translate into a quality grade of the coin itself. Every material and every year will get its own pair of images.

===Coins and the Dwarven Economy===
Coins are intended for use with the [[dwarven economy]], but the economy is not currently enabled. In previous editions [[copper]], [[silver]], and [[gold]] coins had monetary value in addition to their intrinsic value, and dwarves would keep personal stacks of coins as part of their personal accounts. Coins of other metals were widely known as "collector's coins."

===Coins and Combat Training===
It is possible to construct [[danger room]]s which train dwarves' [[armor user]] skills by flinging coins at them.

== Adventure Mode ==

Coins are very commonly found in [[Adventure mode|Adventure Mode]]. Virtually any intelligent being (dwarf, human etc.) you find will have coins in their inventory. Each civilization maintains its own currency, and coins minted by one civilization will not retain their value if you travel to a town belonging to a different civilization. For this reason, it can be more practical to exchange excess coinage for other small and valuable objects like [[gem]]s. Coins are also useful for throwing at enemies.

Coin values in Adventure Mode:
* Copper Coin = 1☼
* Silver Coin = 5☼
* Gold Coin = 15☼

As a curiosity, coins with quality levels can show up in adventurer mode. Bandit leaders receive quality equipment, which often results in them carrying coins with improved quality.

{{Category|Items}}
{{Category|Economy}}

Consoler

2014-10-02T13:54:06Z

Tacomagic: Changed quality rating from "Unrated" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|13:54, 2 October 2014 (UTC)}}
{{Migrated_article}}
{{av}}

'''Consoler''' is a [[social skill]] used by dwarves while conversing. Dwarves that are particularly good at this tend to make friends easily and will often rise to [[mayor|mayoral]] positions.

To train this skill, let dwarves idle and chatter amongst themselves. [[personality trait|Guarded]] dwarves will never gain [[experience]] in this skill, and are the only ones to gain experience in the [[Liar]] skill.

Consoler skill may be important when unhappy dwarves meet with the mayor.

{{skills}}

Meeting

2014-10-02T13:53:45Z

Tacomagic: Changed quality rating from "Unrated" to "Fine" using the rating script

{{Quality|Fine|13:53, 2 October 2014 (UTC)}}
{{Migrated_article}}
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{{Category|Nobles}}

[[Noble]] dwarves need to schedule occasional meetings with representatives from the homelands and foreign diplomats. Meetings generally begin when the seasonal caravan arrives; merchants and traders usually have a diplomat accompanying them. Diplomats will meet with the expedition leader, mayor, baron, count, duke, or king, whichever is of highest rank. The foreigner will follow the relevant dwarf around the fortress until the meeting is finished; if your nobles have a lot of labors turned on, the meeting might take several months to conclude.

If the dwarf has an [[office]], the meeting will take place there; a high-quality office will give the dwarf who scheduled the meeting a happy thought, while a poor office will upset the dwarf. If the dwarf does not have an office, the meeting will take place in a [[meeting hall]], which is to say a dining room that has the "Meeting Hall" option turned on. Meeting in public sometimes embarrasses the dwarf, who receives an unhappy thought from having to conduct a meeting in such circumstances. Also, if your leader is taken by a [[strange mood]] during the meeting, the diplomat will leave unhappy.

Unhappy civilians sometimes schedule their own meetings with the Leader in order to yell at him or her. The leader will use a social skill, either [[Consoler]] or [[Pacifier]], to calm the unhappy dwarf. The results of this depend on the leader's skill level.

Leatherworker

2014-10-02T13:51:45Z

Tacomagic: Fixed broken links

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{{Quality|Exceptional|00:40, 12 June 2010 (UTC)}}
{{Skill
| color = 1:1
| skill = Leatherworker
| profession = [[Craftsdwarf]]
| job name = [[Leatherworker|Leatherworking]]
| tasks =
* Make [[Leather]] [[Craft]]s
* Make [[Leather]] [[Armor]]
* Make [[Leather]] [[clothes]]
* Construct [[Leather]] [[Bag]]
* Make [[Leather]] [[Flask|Waterskin]]
* Make [[Leather]] [[Backpack]]
* Make [[Leather]] [[Quiver]]
* Sew [[Leather]] [[Decoration|Image]]
| workshop = [[Leather works|Leather Works]]
| attributes =
* Strength
* Agility
* Endurance
* Creativity
* Spatial Sense
* Kinesthetic Sense
}}
{{av}}

'''Leatherworker''' is the skill associated with the '''leatherworking''' [[labor]]. Leatherworking is used to make all of the leather goods at a [[Leather works]]. It is also used to sew [[Decoration|leather images]] onto objects.

The leatherworker skill is also used to make leather craft goods at a [[craftsdwarf's workshop]] and [[armor]] at a leather works.

{{Skills}}

Leatherworker

2014-10-02T13:50:13Z

Tacomagic:

{{Migrated_article}}
{{Quality|Exceptional|00:40, 12 June 2010 (UTC)}}
{{Skill
| color = 1:1
| skill = Leatherworker
| profession = [[Craftsdwarf]]
| job name = [[Leatherworking]]
| tasks =
* Make [[Leather]] [[Craft]]s
* Make [[Leather]] [[Armor]]
* Make [[Leather]] [[clothes]]
* Construct [[Leather]] [[Bag]]
* Make [[Leather]] [[Waterskin]]
* Make [[Leather]] [[Backpack]]
* Make [[Leather]] [[Quiver]]
* Sew [[Leather]] [[Image]]
| workshop = [[Leather works|Leather Works]]
| attributes =
* Strength
* Agility
* Endurance
* Creativity
* Spatial Sense
* Kinesthetic Sense
}}
{{av}}

'''Leatherworker''' is the skill associated with the '''leatherworking''' [[labor]]. Leatherworking is used to make all of the leather goods at a [[Leather works]]. It is also used to sew [[Decoration|leather images]] onto objects.

The leatherworker skill is also used to make leather craft goods at a [[craftsdwarf's workshop]] and [[armor]] at a leather works.

{{Skills}}

Griffon

2014-10-02T13:49:06Z

Tacomagic: Changed quality rating from "Unrated" to "Fine" using the rating script

{{Quality|Fine|13:49, 2 October 2014 (UTC)}}
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{{av}}

A '''Griffon''' is a [[fanciful]] creature which is merely the stuff of legends. They do not actually exist, appearing only in [[Engraving|engravings]] as the fancy of artists, as there is no such thing as [[magic]].

Dwarf Fortress presently does not include a robust or finalized [[magic]] system, so they are in the game's [[:category:modding|raw object data]] only in order to allow them to appear in engravings.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Myth}}

Griffon

2014-10-02T13:48:24Z

Tacomagic:

{{Migrated_article}}
{{quality|unrated}}
{{av}}

A '''Griffon''' is a [[fanciful]] creature which is merely the stuff of legends. They do not actually exist, appearing only in [[Engraving|engravings]] as the fancy of artists, as there is no such thing as [[magic]].

Dwarf Fortress presently does not include a robust or finalized [[magic]] system, so they are in the game's [[:category:modding|raw object data]] only in order to allow them to appear in engravings.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Myth}}

Refuse

2014-10-02T13:47:31Z

Tacomagic: /* Refuse Stockpile */ Fixed redlink

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[[Image:RefuseStockpile.png|right|thumb|240px|A refuse stockpile of a dwarven fortress after a goblin siege. The pond turtle shells ({{Raw Tile|²|2:0}}) suggest that the fisherdwarves may have been the first victims of it.]]

'''Refuse''' is everything which can be stored in the predefined refuse [[stockpile]] ({{k|p}}-{{k|r}}). Such stockpile will accept:

* [[Corpse]]s, bodyparts and bodily remains of [[creatures]] (heads, teeth)
* By-products of the [[meat industry| meat]] and [[fishing industry]] ([[bones]], raw hide, raw fish)
* Things which are rotten (rotten food, rotten meals, rotten raw hide)
* Things the dwarves have no further use for (withered plants, [[Wear|tattered]] clothes)

Clothes or armor in a stockpile with refuse enabled will cause them to wear out very quickly.
 

== Uses for Refuse ==
Despite the name "refuse", many things that are considered refuse are valuable resource for dwarven industries — especially if you have [[Modding guide|modded]] the dwarven [[ethics]] so that you can butcher sapient creatures.

=== Bolts and Crossbows ===
Many dwarven fortresses survived the early goblin [[ambush]]es and [[siege]]s because their [[bone carver]]s used [[bone]]s to make [[bolt]]s. Where trees are rare, bones can serve for making [[crossbow]]s as well.

=== Armor ===
Bones can be used to make bone [[armor]]. It is better than leather armor, although you cannot craft any bone breastplates, mailshirts or boots.

=== Leather ===
Pieces of armor which cannot be crafted from bones and [[Equipment#Quivers|many]] [[Equipment#Backpacks|other]] [[DF2012:Flask|useful]] [[Armor#Shield|things]] can easily be made out of leather. Leather is made from [[skin|raw hides]] and raw hides are refuse. By the time you have butchered your first animal, you should have a [[Tanner's shop|tannery]] ready. The skin from butchered animals rots quickly and if you just started to butcher your numerous poultry and have a slow-working tanner, you better store raw hides in a refuse stockpile. When stored, they don't rot as quickly.

=== Clothes ===
[[Shearer|Shearing]] sheep, llamas and alpacas is the very beginning of the dwarven wool industry. Their wool is more valuable than any plant fiber and is best stored in a customized refuse stockpile close to a [[farmer's workshop]] where it can be spun into [[yarn]]. The [[hair]] of other (butchered) creatures (e.g. horses or cows) can be spun into [[thread]], too, although such threads can only be used in [[healthcare]].

=== Crafts ===
Many, many kinds of crafts can be made from refuse. If your masons and stonecrafters work so quickly that your miners have to mine out useless space just to supply them with stones, you should consider making more crafts from refuse and refuse-based products. The choice is yours:

* yarn [[cloth]] crafts (yarn is made from wool which is refuse)
* [[leather]] crafts (leather is tanned from raw hide which is refuse)
* [[bone]] crafts
* [[shell]] crafts
* [[ivory]] crafts (teeth are considered ivory, too)
* [[horn]] crafts

=== Totems ===
The skulls of kittens, poultry and other creatures don't need to lie uselessly in your refuse stockpile. Your bonecarver can use them to make [[totem]]s for which any caravan will pay you good money.

=== Decorations ===
The most valuable use for refuse is for [[decoration]]. The value of an item will multiply many times if it is skillfully decorated. Use bones, shells, ivory, and horns to decorate finished goods, clothes, or furniture. Use yarn cloth and leather (refuse-based products) to sew decorative images, too.

=== Training Discipline ===
If a refuse stockpile with sentient corpses is placed near a high-traffic route it will horrify your dwarves from time to time, forcing them to slowly gain [[discipline]] points (and spam job cancellations). However, sentient corpses may also horrify merchants, causing them to scuttle their wagons, drop their merchandise, and flee{{bug|7185}}.

== Refuse Stockpile ==

A thriving refuse-fuelled industry requires many carefully set stockpiles. A refuse stockpile works just like any other [[stockpile]] and is different from a [[Activity zone#Garbage dump|garbage dump]] zone (which only accepts items explicitly marked to be dumped). The standard predefined refuse stockpile (designated by {{k|p}}-{{k|r}}) has a few peculiarities. It can become the source of [[miasma]], if not set up properly. Under [[Surroundings#Evil|certain conditions]], a refuse stockpile may become a source of great [[Siege#Necromancer_sieges| Fun]], too. Therefore be advised to use customized [[Stockpile#Stockpile_Settings|stockpile settings]] instead and also be careful to avoid miasma and other potential [[undead|dangers]].

=== Avoid Miasma ===

Since the refuse includes rotten or rotting things, a refuse stockpile is best designated on tiles which are {{DFtext|Light|6:1}} and {{DFtext|Above Ground|2:1}} (see [[tile attributes]]).

Players prefer to place a refuse stockpile outside their cavern, usually a small distance from the entrance. Alternatively, you can also expose any part of your fortres's {{DFtext|Inside |6:0}}{{DFtext|Dark Subterranean|0:1}} tiles to sunlight and then cover them again with constructed floors or walls. Such tiles will become {{DFtext|Inside |6:0}}{{DFtext|Light |6:1}}{{DFtext|Above Ground|2:1}} and thus the refuse stored there will not generate any miasma.

=== Stack and Sell Tattered Clothes ===

A fortress in its more advanced stages will be spammed by many tattered clothes. While some players choose to [[Dwarven atom smasher| atom smash]] them, others still sell them for profit to [[Trading#Caravans|caravans]] as they can be worth one to three quarters of their original value. To minimize the number of tiles needed to store your tattered clothes in a refuse stockpile, simply allow bins (with {{k|c}} or {{k|C}}) in the stockpile's building properties ({{k|q}}). Selling tattered clothes to the caravan is also a good way to solve the problem of legendary clothiers "suffering the travesty of art defacement" when their XX☼pig tail fiber socks☼XX decompose in a refuse stockpile. Note that actually leaving clothes or armor in a stockpile with refuse enabled will cause them to wear out very quickly, so if you do intend to sell these items, it would be wise to disable refuse on the stockpile once items are successfully added, since items on a stockpile tile will be considered a part of it no matter what the settings are.

=== Gather Refuse From Outside ===

Refuse stockpiles restricted to butcherable animal corpses, bodyparts, and fresh raw hides placed next to a [[butcher's shop]] or a [[Tanner's shop|tannery]] will save your butcher and tanner a lot of hauling time. A butcherable animal or bodyparts lying somewhere outside your fortress will be ignored by default unless you order your dwarves to gather refuse from outside. You can set it up in the [[standing orders]] ({{k|o}}-{{k|r}}-{{k|o}}).

Echidna man

2014-10-02T13:45:26Z

Tacomagic: Changed quality rating from "Unrated" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|13:45, 2 October 2014 (UTC)}}
{{Migrated_article}}

{{Creaturelookup/0}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Echidna men''' are generally peaceful and surprisingly resilient. Even crossbow [[bolt]]s and [[whip]]s seem to be unable to penetrate past their muscles, leading to long, drawn-out battles waiting for them to bleed out. This makes echidna men relatively useful for [[live training]], or as bait in a [[trap design|devious trap]].

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}

Health care

2014-09-30T20:12:11Z

Tacomagic:

{{Quality|Superior|14:14, 20 August 2014 (UTC)}}
{{av}}
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A '''hospital''' is a [[Activity zone#Hospital|zone]] designated via the [[Activity zone|zone menu]]. Hospitals use any beds, tables, traction benches, and coffers/bags that have been built within the zone. The hospital will requisition [[thread]], [[cloth]], [[splint]]s, [[crutch]]es, [[Gypsum plaster|plaster powder]] (for casts), [[bucket]]s, and [[soap]] for medical use. These will be stored within the hospital's coffers/bags; you may adjust the desired quantities.

'''Doctors''' are dwarves assigned to any of the five medical labors: [[wound dresser|dressing wounds]], [[diagnostician|diagnosis]], [[surgeon|surgery]], [[bone doctor|setting bones]], and [[suturer|suturing]]. All doctors in the fortress operate under the instruction of the [[Chief medical dwarf]], an appointed [[noble]]. Doctors <strike>inflict</strike> perform medicine on a dwarf only after treatment has been prescribed by a diagnostician. Doctors do not perform any healthcare on animals, despite injured animals "requesting" diagnosis in the [[Health screen|z-health screen]].

All beds within a hospital zone are automatically hospital beds, where injured dwarves will go (or be brought) to recuperate. Tired healthy dwarves will occasionally camp there too if the hospital is close, even if they have their own bed.

==Setting up a Hospital==
* Hit {{k|i}} and set up a hospital [[zone]] in the area you plan on having your hospital. Be sure "Hospital" is highlighted. Proximity to [[water]] is a plus, since patients need to be washed and cannot drink alcohol.
* Place enough [[bed]]s in that zone to ensure you can keep all wounded dwarves in the hospital, plus a few spare that will be occupied by lazy couch-surfers.{{bug|647}} Note that normal beds or [[bedroom]]s can and will accept wounded dwarves whether or not a hospital zone exists, though hospital beds will be preferred if they are free. Doctors do not need a hospital zone, though a lack of equipment will probably limit care options.
* Build [[container]]s ({{k|b}}-{{k|h}}) to store hospital supplies. A small hospital can manage with 2 containers, while a fully fledged fortress with an adventurous military may need as many as 8. (Containers are not strictly necessary; doctors can and will use supplies from anywhere. But dedicated hospital containers allow you to earmark some supplies for medical use -- for example, to prevent the auto-looming of ''every'' last thread.)
* Build at least one [[table]] ({{k|b}}-{{k|t}}) for surgeons to perform surgery on. You may perform surgery without tables; it will be more messy.
** Multiple dwarves may undergo simultaneous surgeries on the same table.
* Build one or more [[traction bench]]es to handle compound fractures when the dwarf requires "immobilization." Remember to check back on the <strike>victim</strike> patient after a while or they may be in the traction bench for a long, long time.{{bug|4470}} (Or be lucky; sometimes immobilization requests simply disappear with no bad consequences.)
** Each traction bench can only accommodate one dwarf at a time, and the dwarf may be there for quite some time, so plan accordingly.
* Stockpiles are not needed but can be used instead of chests and bags in the hospital zone.
* Assign a [[chief medical dwarf]] (in the [[noble]]s screen) to enable the fortress-wide [[health screen]] as well as invidual dwarves' health summary screens ({{k|v}}-{{k|z}}-{{k|h}}).
* Pick one or more dwarves to be doctors, and enable the health labor(s) on them (through {{k|v}}-{{k|p}}-{{k|l}}). Be sure the diagnosis labor is well covered. Without a diagnosis, patients cannot be treated. If they cannot be treated, they will occupy the hospital area until they die, performing no function. (Any dwarf with the Diagnosis labor enabled can diagnose dwarves, but the Chief Medical Dwarf may impact the diagnosis job creation{{verify}}. Once a patient is diagnosed, you can see on the individual health screen what procedures are needed, for example washing or suturing.)
* If you use a [[burrow]] to keep doctors near the hospital zone, ensure that this burrow covers all needed materials or you could get job cancellations because of lack of material. Thread/cloth stockpiles, and items bought from caravans (e.g. plaster early in the game) are often the most troubling.

== Skills and Injuries==
'''Doctors''' have 5 specialized skills and 2 support healthcare labors.

[[Diagnostician]] -- [[Surgeon]] -- [[Suturer]] -- [[Wound dresser]] -- [[Bone doctor]] -- Feed patients/prisoners -- [[Recovering wounded]]

Those with the '''recover wounded''' labor will attempt to bring a wounded dwarf to the hospital zone, or lacking one to the nearest unoccupied bed. Note that recovering wounded appears to be an extremely low priority task. Since immobile patients will need to be carried to a hospital before diagnosis, it may be necessary to temporarily disable all other labors on another dwarf to move them first.

A '''diagnoser''' will then identify and prescribe a treatment which any doctor (including himself) may carry out. A dwarf cannot be treated without a diagnosis. Depending on the injury a treatment labor will occur. Diagnosis is often required between procedures as well.

[[Wound|Injuries]]
:{| border=0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=1 style="background: black"
|-
| '''NONE: No recorded active wounds on the part.'''
|-
| '''MINOR: Any damage that doesn't have functional/structural consequences (might be heavy bleeding, though).'''
|-
| '''INHIBITED: Any muscular, structural, or functional damage, without total loss.'''
|-
| '''FUNCTION LOSS: An important function of the part is completely lost, but the part is structurally sound (or, at least partially intact). '''
|-
| '''BROKEN: The part has lost all structural integrity or muscular ability.'''
|-
| '''MISSING: The part is completely gone. '''
|}
If a chief medical dwarf is appointed you can view your fortress' health using the {{k|z}}-status key), or individually by selecting a dwarf and using {{k|w}} for wounds section.
* '''Bones''' can be set and treated by bone doctors depending on severity using thread and cloth for fractures, splints and casts, or traction benches. Grasping is often impaired during healing. The {{DFtext|Immobilization Request}} status tag is an indication that a splint or plaster cast is required. Multiple overlapping and compound fractures require a surgeon. Caused by [[attack_types#Blunt_weapons|blunt]] trauma.
*'''Skin and muscle''' can be treated by a suturer using thread and cloth. The wound will continue to bleed until sutured, severe wounds impair grasping during healing. Closed wounds will be dressed by a wound dresser. Caused by [[attack_types#Edged_weapons|slashing]] injuries.
*'''Internal Organs''' can be treated or removed by a surgeon using tables and traction benches. Repair of infected or rotten wounds is treated similarly. Caused by [[attack_types#Piercing_weapons|piercing]] injuries.

Any dwarves with the Feed patients/prisoners labor will attempt to give food or a bucket of water to a hungry or thirsty patient. By default all dwarves start with the non-doctor labors designated. These have no corresponding [[skill]]s - they do not cause experience gain, but merely are activities that can be turned on/off for each dwarf.

==Infection==
Every open wound can become infected. Infections may heal over time; however, many dwarves will die due to infection, often months after the actual wounding.

Causes of infection include:
* No cleaning of the wounds.
* Cleaning with water from a [[Water#Stagnant_Water|stagnant water]] source.
* Cleaning with [[Water#Water_laced_with_mud|water laced with mud]]. {{Verify}}
* Cleaning without [[soap]].
* <s>Bad luck</s> [[Fun]]!

== Equipment ==
=== Traction Benches ===

A '''traction bench''' is used by a [[doctor]] in a [[Hospital|hospital zone]] to immobilize a dwarf that has sustained complex or overlapping fractures.

It is constructed in the [[Mechanic's workshop]], and requires a [[table]], a [[mechanism]], and a [[rope]] or a [[chain]] to construct. The [[quality]] of each component is not reflected in the quality of the traction bench, and only the [[material]] of the table is used as the material for the bench. "Recycling" low-quality, low-value components into high-quality traction benches can provide a modest increase in [[value]]. Note that if any [[Stockpile|stockpiles]] have been linked to "Give" to the workshop, all of the resources needed to construct the traction bench must be found in the linked piles (e.g., linking only a stone stockpile may prevent access to the necessary tables/ropes/chains).

Currently there is a bug that may prevent fully healed dwarves from ever leaving the traction bench. {{bug|4470}} Removing the traction bench will free the dwarf.

Do not be hasty in removing a presumably-stuck dwarf from traction, however. Such treatment takes weeks or months to succeed and removing the dwarf prematurely will undo all the progress that has been made. If the dwarf has been in traction without being diagnosed or otherwise treated for a month and the health screen shows no scheduled treatment, they probably were forgotten and need the traction bench deconstructed to release them. Another possible way to check if a dwarf is stuck is by {{k|v}}iewing the {{k|w}}ounds of the dwarf in question. If the damaged part isn't at red, then the dwarf is stuck.

=== Casts ===

Casts are made out of [[Gypsum plaster|plaster powder]] and are used to keep broken bones in their proper place until healed. To store it in a hospital, build a chest or other container inside the hospital zone. Applying a cast also requires a bucket and cloth, and a water source.

Plaster powder is produced at a [[kiln]] or [[magma kiln]] from [[gypsum]], [[alabaster]], [[selenite]], or [[satinspar]] and an empty [[bag]] by a dwarf with the furnace operator skill enabled. They can also be bought at embark for 3 points per unit; each unit comes with a free [[bag]].

=== Splints ===
Splints immobilize limbs that have sustained bone fractures. They allow the broken limb to be utilized until it is fully healed, Dwarves will be able to leave the hospital and resume their normal duties once securely splinted up since by this stage their wounds have already been cleaned, sutured and dressed. Applied by a bone doctor.

They can be made out of one [[wood]] at the [[carpenter's workshop]] or out of one metal [[bar]] at the [[metalsmith's forge]] or the [[magma forge]]. The use of splints seems to be an effective alternative to applying a plaster cast, which are also easier to obtain and prepare. Splints are categorized as [[finished goods]].

=== Other equipment===
*[[Crutch]]es {{DFtext|┬|770}} help a crippled dwarf walk again.
*[[Table]]s are used to conduct operations on.
*[[Bed]]s are used by patients to rest.
*[[Thread]] is used to suture closed wounds.
*[[Cloth]] is used to clean wounds, wash patients and dress wounds.
*[[Soap]] is used to clean wounds, sterilizing and preventing infection.
*[[Water]] is used to clean wounds, bathe patients and give drink. Patients do not drink alcohol.
*[[Bucket]]s are used to gather and hold the water for its uses.
*[[Container]]s are used to store hospital supplies.

==Tips for an Effective Hospital==
* Regularly use ({{k|i}}-{{k|H}}) to examine your hospital stockpile. Ensure your hospital is well-stocked. If you run out of materials regularly, increase the limits.
* It is possible to do without soap in the hospital stockpile. Choosing to do so, however, increases the risk of infection, which most likely will kill your dwarf. Consult the [[soap]] page to understand that industry. Bring 1 lye on embark for one bar of soap, which translates to 150 units.
* Put a [[well]] inside (or near) the hospital for maximum efficiency. Doctors need to wash patients regularly, and clean water reduces infection.
* Do not place chairs next to your surgery tables. A chair is an invitation for rat-roast eating freeloaders to block the medical process.
* Consider making use of [[burrow]]s to ensure your healthcare workers stay in the area.
* You may wish to consider individual rooms for each bed if you find your doctors are choosing to treat Urist McScratched over Urist McBloodFountainTheGushing. A locked door minimizes the mess and thereby infection and allows you to prioritize.
* The Chief Medical Dwarf only enables the Health status screen. The position has no in-game use. Look after your CMDs if you rely heavily on this screen, but otherwise they can be treated as any other dwarf.
** Diagnosis skill level does not affect the diagnosis, only the time it takes for the diagnosis to happen. Embarking with a dwarf skilled in diagnosis (and other medical skills) is helpful, both to speed diagnosis and to stave off skill rust when long periods of time go between injuries.
** Also helpful is enabling medical skills on all dwarves in the fortress, which allows medical jobs to be picked up immediately so long as there is an idle dwarf.
* Create "nurses" by setting dwarves to only use the Recover Wounded, Bring Food and Water labors.
** It is important not to distract doctors from treating patients (or other medical helpers such as crutch haulers, or wounded recoverers).
** "Recover wounded", "Give food" and "Give water" are low priority jobs, so it is entirely possible for a patient to starve to death, dehydrate to death, or bleed to death if no one ever gets "unbusy" enough to bring them food, water, or move them to the hospital.
** Similarly, it is important not to put your doctors at risk by recovering wounded in the middle of a battle—if they become injured, they cannot treat themselves.
* You can select nurses who enjoy helping people to give them good thoughts. This also prevents dwarves that hate bringing others food from receiving unhappy thoughts.
* When a serious injury happens, don't exit (or save) the game until the injured are in the hospital zone, especially if a dwarf is immobile. "Bring crutch" and "Recover Wounded" jobs will be lost, keeping the patient away from the hospital, and doctors will NOT go to patients, even if burrowed with them, because a diagnose job hasn't been created. Sometimes a second "crutch required" or "recover wounded" request will be generated, but often too late for the patient's full recovery. Best bet is ensure someone (not burrowed) has "recover wounded" enabled at all times; burrow doctors doing non-medical tasks immediately; hope the patient makes it to the hospital.

Dwarves will prefer to store and use the most expensive thread and cloth. Yes, that includes special "[[raw adamantine|exotic]]" strands. You may want to forbid these during medical emergencies.

==Bugs==
* For a variety of reasons, an injured dwarf may leave the hospital and/or refuse to go to the hospital. {{Bug|309}}
* Adamantine thread used for suturing. {{Bug|1346}}
* Wounded [[justice|criminals]] don't get sent to the hospital. {{Bug|3901}}
* Your dwarf may get stuck in traction, even after the wounds have healed. If this happens, simply remove the traction bench. {{Bug|4470}}
* The quality and value of a finished traction bench doesn't account for all of the inputs used to make it. {{verify}}
* Purchased plaster powder does not appear in the hospital storage. {{verify}}
* Dwarves resting in bed may be starving/dehydrated and not being taken care of, deconstructing the bed to generate a new Recover Wounded task and force them to rest properly fixes this.

{{d for dwarf}}
Soap is the only item dwarves will use to sterilize a wound. While dwarves are of course aware that humans will pour perfectly quaffable alcohol over their bloody wounds and onto the filthy ground to get the same effect, dwarves understand that some things are more precious than a single life, and face oblivion with a bit more dignity. Application of extreme heat is also well known to prevent infections and seal a wound, but dwarves consider magma the only legitimate heat source, and the non-lethal application of magma a sacrilege.

{{Category|Healthcare}}
{{Industry}}

Captured live fish

2014-09-29T19:01:29Z

Tacomagic: Changed quality rating from "Unrated" to "Fine" using the rating script

{{Quality|Fine|19:01, 29 September 2014 (UTC)}}
{{Migrated_article}}
{{av}}
'''A captured live fish''' is caught using the "capture live fish" command given at a [[fishery]]. A [[dwarf]] with the [[fishing]] labor will then attempt to catch a [[fish]] live using an available [[animal trap]]. The fish will then be placed into an available [[Cage|aquarium]]. Unlike normal fishing, which will be done at any suitable location, the "capture live fish" command will '''only''' capture fish from an explicitly designated [[activity zone#Fishing|fishing zone]].

Captured [[Pond turtle|turtles]] and [[moghopper]]s can be used as [[pet]]s. However, a captured [[moghopper]] is also used to make five units of [[mog juice]] using the [[fishery]]'s "extract from live fish" command as well as being a [[pet]] candidate. This [[extract]] can be used for [[cooking]] and [[trading]].

This task will wait for an available animal trap forever, occupying a fishery when none are available. While the fishery waits, fish cleaners cannot perform their automatic task of preparing raw fish.

Note: A constructed [[animal trap|trap]] can not be used unless it is deconstructed. ({{k|q}}->{{k|x}}).

{{Expand Topic}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Captured live fish

2014-09-29T18:59:41Z

Tacomagic:

{{Migrated_article}}
{{quality|unrated}}{{av}}
'''A captured live fish''' is caught using the "capture live fish" command given at a [[fishery]]. A [[dwarf]] with the [[fishing]] labor will then attempt to catch a [[fish]] live using an available [[animal trap]]. The fish will then be placed into an available [[Cage|aquarium]]. Unlike normal fishing, which will be done at any suitable location, the "capture live fish" command will '''only''' capture fish from an explicitly designated [[activity zone#Fishing|fishing zone]].

Captured [[Pond turtle|turtles]] and [[moghopper]]s can be used as [[pet]]s. However, a captured [[moghopper]] is also used to make five units of [[mog juice]] using the [[fishery]]'s "extract from live fish" command as well as being a [[pet]] candidate. This [[extract]] can be used for [[cooking]] and [[trading]].

This task will wait for an available animal trap forever, occupying a fishery when none are available. While the fishery waits, fish cleaners cannot perform their automatic task of preparing raw fish.

Note: A constructed [[animal trap|trap]] can not be used unless it is deconstructed. ({{k|q}}->{{k|x}}).

{{Expand Topic}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Captured live fish

2014-09-29T18:57:13Z

Tacomagic: Fixed broken link

{{Migrated_article}}
{{quality|unrated}}{{av}}
'''A captured live fish''' is caught using the "capture live fish" command given at a [[fishery]]. A [[dwarf]] with the [[fishing]] labor will then attempt to catch a [[fish]] live using an available [[animal trap]]. The fish will then be placed into an available [[Aquarium|aquarium]]. Unlike normal fishing, which will be done at any suitable location, the "capture live fish" command will '''only''' capture fish from an explicitly designated [[activity zone#Fishing|fishing zone]].

Captured [[Pond turtle|turtles]] and [[moghopper]]s can be used as [[pet]]s. However, a captured [[moghopper]] is also used to make five units of [[mog juice]] using the [[fishery]]'s "extract from live fish" command as well as being a [[pet]] candidate. This [[extract]] can be used for [[cooking]] and [[trading]].

This task will wait for an available animal trap forever, occupying a fishery when none are available. While the fishery waits, fish cleaners cannot perform their automatic task of preparing raw fish.

Note: A constructed [[animal trap|trap]] can not be used unless it is deconstructed. ({{k|q}}->{{k|x}}).

{{Expand Topic}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Screw pump

2014-09-29T14:41:33Z

Tacomagic: Added a note about pumping rate

{{Migrated_article}}
{{quality|unrated}}
{{Machine_component|name=Screw pump|key=s|job=[[Pump operator]]
|construction=
* [[Block]]
* [[Trap component#Enormous corkscrew|Enormous corkscrew]]
* [[Pipe section]]
|construction_job=
* [[Architecture]]
* 1 of
** [[Carpentry]]
** [[Masonry]]
** [[Metalsmithing]]
|power=Needs 10 power.
}}
{{av}}

A '''screw pump''' is a small [[building]] that can lift liquids ([[water]] or [[magma]]) from one level below onto the same [[Z-level]] as the pump. It is two tiles by one tile in size, and it can be either manually operated by a [[dwarf]] with the [[pump operator]] job or by being [[power]]ed by [[water wheel]]s and/or [[windmill]]s.

The direction you want the fluid to travel must be chosen at the time of construction. Pumping only occurs in a straight line, and involves a total of 4 tiles in a row - the liquid source, two for the pump, and the output. The "rise" in levels occurs on the first tile, the intake side, from one level below up to the level of the pump*. Pumped fluids can and will flow immediately after being pumped, as normal for that fluid. Pumped fluids will have a [[pressure]] equal to the exit [[z-level]] - a pump never "forces" water to a higher [[z-level]] than the output tile.

[[Water#Salt Water|Salt water]] pumped through a pump will desalinate and become drinkable, but only if the [[cistern]] has never contained salty water. [[Water#Stagnant Water|Stagnant water]] pumped through a pump will become clean, letting dwarves drink it without getting an unhappy [[thought]] and letting [[doctor]]s clean [[wound]]s without causing an [[Health care#Infection|infection]]. As with desalination, this only works if the [[cistern]] has never contained stagnant water.

{{d for dwarf}}
:From the components used in construction, a DF pump can be imagined as a simple [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archimedes%27_screw archimedes screw]. However, given its effect on contaminated water, the lack of pump components *in* the water itself, and general Dwarven mechanical aptitude, it seems more accurate - and more Darwfy - to infer the speed of rotation to be high enough that the building actually operates as a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbomolecular_pump Turbopump] using the principles of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_distillation Vacuum distillation] to simultaneously transfer and purify water.

''For a basic overview of how the different machine parts work and work together, see [[machine component|machinery]].''

== Construction ==

Building a screw pump requires an [[Trap component#Enormous corkscrew|enormous corkscrew]], a [[block]], and a [[pipe section]]. The construction itself is completed in two stages. First a dwarf with the [[architect]] labor must design it. Then a dwarf (the same or a different one) with the appropriate labor must complete the building. This could be [[carpentry]], [[metalsmithing]], or [[masonry]], depending on the material of the block.

To select pump, use keys {{k|b}}-{{k|M}}-{{k|s}}. It's important to choose the proper orientation for your pump, where it will draw water from and where it will deliver the water. This is determined before placement with the {{k|u}}, {{k|m}}, {{k|k}}, or {{k|h}} keys, and the text at the top of the sub-menu will change to confirm your choice. The default (as shown above in the sidebar), "pumps from the north" (top). The ''light'' green X must be next to the liquid source and the ''dark'' green X is where the liquid exits the pump.

[[Image:Small pump.jpg|thumb|right|300px|'''Basic Side View of a Pump'''. This pump "pumps from the west", from left to right. The area to the right may fill to the top of that level, but no more (See [[pressure]]; see [[Screw pump#Pump stack|Pump stack]]). Note that the entire space required is 4 tiles long by 1 tile wide, not including any retaining walls for the outflow. If pumped manually, the [[pump operator]] stands in the light-colored area, as the dark-colored tile is [[impassable tile|impassable]] to both fluid and movement. ''(Although the "liquid" is shown as blue, this can work for [[magma]] as well, with the [[magma-safe|appropriate precautions]].)'']]

The example shown in the infobox above "pumps from the north" (top) to the south (bottom). If pumped manually, the dwarf stands on the light-colored tile, as the dark-colored tile is [[impassable tile|impassable]].

The orientation is visible after placement by using {{k|q}}uery over or near that pump or during placement, using UMKH to select the direction of input. Orientation of a pump cannot be changed after being constructed, but, as with any building, it can be deconstructed into its component parts and rebuilt as and where desired.

Having specified the direction of travel, you must ensure that the source side of the pump is placed adjacent to and above (in the [[z-axis]]) a liquid. The screw pump will draw the liquid up from below its level, and distribute it out of the other side of the pump.

Construction of a screw pump can be prohibited with a "needs screw trap component" message if your enormous corkscrews are in a bin which has ''any'' current tasks attached to it (such as the relocation of a newly constructed corkscrew, or a military member moving a weapon). One workaround is to create a separate weapon stockpile for your corkscrews, and for best effectiveness, disallow the use of bins in that stockpile. This will force your corkscrew storage to work as smoothly (and space-consumingly) as a furniture stockpile.

== Notes ==

* The source of the pump tile must be directionally adjacent to "Open Space" or "Downward Ramp" that is directly above a source of liquid. The adjacent space cannot be a floor, stairway or wall suspended over water. Screw pumps can pull water through a [[grate]], floor [[bars]], or a [[construction|constructed]] [[fortification]] on the Z-level below.
* The light pump tile is where a pump operator will stand (if the pump is not powered mechanically). Liquids to be pumped must be 1 level below the (empty) area adjacent to this tile.
* Dwarves must be able to access and stand on the light tile of the pump in order to build the pump and then to be able to operate the pump manually.
* The dark pump tile is on the output side. Liquids will appear in the tile adjacent to this.
* The dark pump tile blocks liquids flow and creature movement, and can be built between wall segments to create a solid barrier. The light tile of the pump does not block flow or movement.
* Pumps can also be used in conjunction with a [[water wheel]] or a [[windmill]] to become self-powered.
* Active mechanisms connected to the pump will automatically start the pump; to prevent this either restrict liquid flow using floodgates or hatches, or put in a [[gear assembly]] linked to a [[lever]] to disconnect the [[power]].
* Adjacent pumps ''automatically'' transfer mechanical power to any other adjacent pump(s); no [[axle]] or [[mechanism]] is required. If too many pumps are adjacent, there may be insufficient power to power them.
* Dwarves operating pumps do '''NOT''' generate power. Thus, one cannot use a single [[pump operator]] to power an entire pump stack.
* A hatch above the input tile (on the same level as the pump) that is linked to a trigger (a [[lever]] or [[pressure plate]]) makes an effective on/off switch for that pump.
* In order to build pumps in a "hanging" state, as in the stacked screw pump example (below), one of its tiles must be able to connect to a nearby machine, either already existing or designated to be built. If, when the screw pump's construction is completed, the supporting mechanism has not yet been completed, it will promptly collapse into its component parts.
* Pumps do '''not''' push liquids '''up''' additional Z-levels above them. They only deliver water to their own level. That is, if you direct the output of a screw pump into a 1-square space surrounded by walls, the water will not "overflow" the walls. Consequently, a pump will refuse to move liquid if the level it is pumping to is completely filled. Higher levels can be achieved using a "pump stack" (below). (See [[Pressure]])
* In order to safely pump magma, you must use [[magma-safe]] materials, though magma-unsafe metals have been observed to be safe unless the open tile is going to be submerged in magma. Wooden parts (except for [[nether-cap]]s) will burst into flames the instant the pump is activated, and magma-unsafe stone [[block]]s melt after a short time. Despite the requirement for magma-safe materials, the exterior of the pump does not heat up, and dwarves do not mind operating a magma pump directly.
* Magma, which normally has no pressure, will behave as though pressurized when pumped. For example, when pumped into an U-turn, magma will come out at the other end. Normal (non-pumped) magma would just pool at the lowest level. This may be either very useful (can be used to build pressure towers for magma) or deadly (forge level flooded with magma, because someone tried to pump magma into a volcano).
* Pump's pseudo-pressure doesn't work across diagonals. If there is a diagonal-only passage in your tunnel, liquids will seep slowly through it, instead of bursting through above their normal maximal speed, like they would if there was good passage.
* The liquid in a pump's intake tile must have a depth of at least 2/7 for the pump to be able to remove any amount of liquid from it.
* If a pump's intake tile on the z-level below the pump becomes blocked (e.g. cave-in, magma cooling into obsidian, or a sapling maturing into a [[tree]]) the pump will still run but not pump any fluid.
* If a pump's output tile contains magma and the pump is pumping water or vice versa, the output tile will be turned into [[obsidian]].
* Pumps operate in the reverse order in which they were built-- the most recently built will try to pump, then the next recent, and so on. You can use this to your advantage for [[mist]] generation, to maximize fluid throughput, or for advanced [[repeater]] design.
* Screw pumps continue to operate for a short period (49 ticks) after losing power-- that is, a screw pump supplied power for exactly 1 tick will actually pump for 50 ticks.
* Screw pumps attempt to pump everything from the inlet tile to the outlet tile on every turn (so long as there is more than 1/7 liquid in the square). Actual pump rate tends to be slower than this due to liquid needing to flow to the pump inlet, which can take a few turns depending on the source.

====Common mistakes====
* Orienting a pump incorrectly, and/or not having a proper open liquid source.
* Pumping water into an area with a path to other parts of your fortress. (The pump may work perfectly - the fortress quickly [[flood]]s.)
* Expecting water to rise up above the level of a pump.
* Building a wall attached only to the light tile - this leaves a diagonal leak between the wall and the dark tile unless sealed there. (If that's not a problem, don't worry about it.)
* Having stairs as input tile. Stairs block input tile, thus rendering the pump useless, even though liquids usually ignore stairs. Output tile can be any liquid-passable tile.
* Not channeling below the [[impassable tile]] of an individual pump in a pump stack. This is how power is transmitted to the pump below.
* Pumping magma into a lower z-level (same as the source) and then being surprised it is forced back up to the pump's z-level further down the line (where you were planning your magma forges, for example.)

== Example layouts ==
=== Single pump ===

[[Image:jt_screwpump.png|frame|left|A screw pump delivers from the level below to the tile in front. This pump pumps from the right to the left. The "dark tile" would be on the left - that entire tile is impassible to movement and fluids.]] 
=== Pump stack ===
[[File:PumpStack2010.png|thumb|right|300px|'''Illustrated Side View of a Pump Stack.''']]
[[File:PumpStackTopView.png|thumb|right|300px|'''Illustrated Top View of a Pump Stack Layer.''']]
[[File:Pumpstack.gif|thumb|right|'''Animation showing the general construction using an isometric projection.''']]

A Pump stack is a method used to draw water or magma vertically across multiple z-levels requiring a minimum of parts. The basic functionality is possible because the Output (dark) side of the pump can be built over open space with a machine component located directly below, in this case another Screw Pump. Note that for power to properly transfer the intake (light) side of the pump must line up with the output (dark) side of the pump on the floor above it through a space in the floor, as in the illustration.

A pump stack minimizes the amount of machinery required to lift water or magma by allowing for power to be supplied directly to only the most accessible pump (typically the topmost) which in turn allows the player to operate a stack limited only by how many windmills/water wheels they can fit into the area. The price of optimal parts density is fragility: each pump relies on the pump below it for support. If [[forgotten beast|anything]] breaks a pump in your stack, every pump above it will be disassembled. This means that a single pump accidentally assembled with non-[[magma-safe]] parts can cause an entire magma pump stack to spontaneously disassemble. To prevent disassembly, you can "anchor" each pump with a stable horizontal axle (for water applications placing this axle on the output tile of the pump also conveniently prevents plant growth; for magma applications the axle must be protected from the magma unless you are using [[nether-cap]]).

Typical applications for a pump stack include moving magma from a lower level (often the [[magma sea]]) up to a convenient level for forges and furnaces, extracting water from a flooded fort, raising water for a decorative [[waterfall]] (and extracting it afterwards), or any other purpose that requires water/magma on a z-level significantly above its current location.

The Illustrated Top View of a Pump Stack Layer shows a basic section of a pump stack. Only the door (or a floodgate) on the Containment side is strictly necessary in order to prevent flooding. Two doorways are used here, each lining up with the solid ground within the pump assembly, in order to prevent workers from trapping themselves after digging channels or assembling the pump.

Be warned: pump stacks move water '''fast.''' If you are pumping from a large reservoir into an open area, be prepared for a huge outflow, roughly akin to the kind of water dump you'd get if the whole reservoir was balanced above the pump output and then released. If you are using pumps to empty a large underground reservoir (or, say, a flooded fortress) onto open land, use an aqueduct or some other method to make sure the pump system outlet is a good distance away from anything you wouldn't want to get drenched.

As an alternative to a large reservoir, it is also possible to combine a [[Dwarven Atom Smasher]] with the top layer of the Pump Stack to create a "vacuum cleaner" of sorts.

====Tips====

* Ramps can be used in place of channeling. Liquids will transmit through ramps, unlike stairs, and when pumps are constructed they annihilate the ramp they're built on much as walls do. Power will still be transmitted, so they don't need to be removed by miners prior to pump construction. Ramps make it virtually impossible to strand your miners and allow the stack to be dug out using only access doorways on the intake side of the pump, so no construction or doors are later needed to eliminate leaks. A pump stack can be very rapidly carved out with this method as even if a miner/builder is trapped on the containment side of a pump, they can walk up the ramp to the intake side of the pump above and walk out.
* Power can be transmitted to the stack by channeling out the tile directly above the intake (light) tile of the topmost pump and mounting a gear assembly. If the gear assembly is supported by an adjacent gear assembly or horizontal axle on a stable floor (be careful to not have that adjacent gear assembly disengage via lever), this will allow the stack to hang from the gear assembly. If a lower pump needs to be removed, or should self-destruct, the problem of the entire pump stack disassembling described above is eliminated. Further, if the supported gear assembly is built first, the pump stack can be built both from the top and bottom simultaneously, halving construction time, assuming that sufficient attention is paid to make sure that the pumps will align with the proper orientation when the two partial stacks meet. Properly channeling/ramping out the stack should ensure this.
* While expensive on both power and mechanisms, it is also possible to power a pump stack horizontally with a Gear Assembly or power source connected directly to the bright square. This is most useful when you are building an above ground Pump Stack. You can attach a power source to the Screw Pump through the dark square, but it's generally not a good idea because it will leak water along a diagonal. Unless that's your plan.
* When pumping water, make sure all tiles on the containment side of the stack are covered with a [[construction|constructed]] floor or [[fortification]] to prevent subterranean trees from growing and blocking flow of the stack. Fortifications have the added advantage that, when used with water, they will never become muddy.
* When using pumps to empty a large body of liquid, make sure that the pump output is properly isolated from the intake, otherwise the liquid can flow backwards into the pump's walkable tile and cause problems (such as flushing the dwarf operating it into the body of liquid being drained).
* The order in which the screw pumps were constructed matters. If built from lowest to highest, they will be able to transfer liquids one z-level per tick. However, if built from highest to lowest, they will transport liquids all the way from the bottom to the top in just one tick.

===Improved Magma Pump Stack===

Because a pump stack pumping magma is known to cause significant [[Maximizing_framerate|lag]], a [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=72296.0 new type of pump stack] was developed by [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?action=profile;u=19835 NecroRebel] that causes a much smaller drop in [[FPS]]. Changing the single tile magma chamber at the output of every pump from a 1 by 1 to a 3 by 3 area reduces the lag to 1/15th of that caused by the original pump stack. The designer hypothesizes that the larger chamber requires many fewer temperature calculations when magma is pumped in or out; that also implies that there will be no FPS improvement for water pumps by using this design.

====Newer Magma Pump Breakthroughs====

Newer breakthroughs in magma pump design has since made the 3x3 reservoir design obsolete.
NecroRebel has tested a [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=72296.msg1772802#msg1772802 1x3 head-over-tail variation] (which is very similar to [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|the typical 1 by 1 pump stack]]) as well as a [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=72296.msg1795907#msg1795907 2x3 head-over-head variation]. Both of these new designs require less space and work as effectively as his original 3x3 reservoir head-over-head design, with no significant drop in FPS. The 1x3 head-over-tail design has the advantages of requiring the least amount of space and being simple to refit from the standard 1 by 1 water pump stack.

{{buildings}}

Pump-stack method

2014-09-26T04:42:26Z

Tacomagic: /* Appendix A: No Stone Version */

{{Quality|Exceptional|21:52, 24 September 2014 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one column at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one column at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one column at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last column! Once this column is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the right, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one column at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that lack of cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another column into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Appendix A: No Stone Version ==

It is entirely possible to do this method without using any stone at all. It requires 3 more pumps in place of the mechanisms at a net increase in power cost of 15. Doing the method without stone only changes the top of the stack, and the first aquifer level.

To start, follow along with the normal steps until you reach the point just before you build the two pumps on the top of the aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|You want the top to look like this.]]
|}

Instead of building 2 pumps and a mechanism, instead build 3 pumps in a row. After that, you'll want to build a single pump hanging from the southern pump, and the water wheel hanging from the same pump. Of note, the hanging pump will need to be set so that it's pumping towards the pump it is attached to.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_pump_top.png|frame|left|3 pumps all pumping East to West.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_wheel_top.png‎|frame|left|Add a water wheel to the bottom pump, and then hang a pump off the other end. The hanging pump is pumping East to West.]]
|}

From there, proceed as normal until you have the two channels cut into the aquifer level.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_channeled.png|frame|left|This step. First aquifer level, 2 slits channeled.]]
|}

First, build a screw pump pumping towards the wall in the lower left-hand corner. This will hang from the aquifer above. From there, build the two pumps as normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_transpump.png|frame|left|The power-transfer pump. It's pumping East to West, toward the wall.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_pumps.png‎|frame|left|Build the other two pumps as normal, pumping from the East out of the channel there.]]
|}

And that's it. The rest of the breach proceeds as normal. So, the only difference between the normal method and this one is that you're using 3 pumps as power-transfer units. So, if you've got lots of trees and don't want to bring any stone with you, all you need is 15 extra power and you can leave the stone at mountainhome.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

Pump-stack method

2014-09-26T02:33:35Z

Tacomagic:

{{Quality|Exceptional|21:52, 24 September 2014 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one column at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one column at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one column at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last column! Once this column is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the right, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one column at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that lack of cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another column into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Appendix A: No Stone Version ==

It is entirely possible to do this method without using any stone at all. It requires 3 more pumps in place of the mechanisms at a net increase in power cost of 15. Doing the method without stone only changes the top of the stack, and the first aquifer level.

To start, follow along with the normal steps until you reach the point just before you build the two pumps on the top of the aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|You want the top to look like this.]]
|}

Instead of building 2 pumps and a mechanism, instead build 3 pumps in a row. After that, you'll want to build a single pump hanging from the southern pump, and the water wheel hanging from the same pump. Of note, the hanging pump will need to be set so that it's pumping towards the pump it is attached to.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_pump_top.png|frame|left|3 pumps all pumping East to West.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_wheel_top.png‎|frame|left|Add a water wheel to the bottom pump, and then hang a pump off the other end. The hanging pump is pumping East to West.]]
|}

From there, proceed as normal until you have the two channels cut into the aquifer level.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_channeled.png|frame|left|This step. First aquifer level, 2 slits channeled.]]
|}

First, build a screw pump pumping towards the wall in the lower left-hand corner. This will hang from the aquifer above. From there, build the two aquifers as normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_transpump.png|frame|left|The power-transfer pump. It's pumping East to West, toward the wall.]]
| [[Image:Pump_stack_stoneless_aquifer_pumps.png‎|frame|left|Build the other two pumps as normal, pumping from the East out of the channel there.]]
|}

And that's it. The rest of the breach proceeds as normal. So, the only difference between the normal method and this one is that you're using 3 pumps as power-transfer units. So, if you've got lots of trees and don't want to bring any stone with you, all you need is 15 extra power and you can leave the stone at mountainhome.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

File:Pump stack stoneless aquifer pumps.png

2014-09-26T02:16:25Z

Tacomagic:

File:Pump stack stoneless aquifer transpump.png

2014-09-26T02:13:12Z

Tacomagic:

File:Pump stack stoneless aquifer channeled.png

2014-09-26T02:07:39Z

Tacomagic:

File:Pump stack stoneless wheel top.png

2014-09-26T02:02:14Z

Tacomagic:

File:Pump stack stoneless pump top.png

2014-09-26T02:00:21Z

Tacomagic:

Pump-stack method

2014-09-24T17:48:18Z

Tacomagic:

{{av}}
{{quality|unrated}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one column at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one column at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one column at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last column! Once this column is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the right, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one column at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that lack of cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another column into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

Pump-stack method

2014-09-24T17:20:33Z

Tacomagic:

{{av}}
{{quality|unrated}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one row at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one row at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one row at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last row! Once this row is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the right, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one row at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that lack of cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another row into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

Pump-stack method

2014-09-24T17:15:09Z

Tacomagic:

{{av}}
{{quality|unrated}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one row at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one row at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one row at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last row! Once this row is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the right, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one row at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another row into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

Pump-stack method

2014-09-24T17:07:32Z

Tacomagic:

{{av}}
{{quality|unrated}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
<nowiki>*</nowiki>If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one row at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one row at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one row at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last row! Once this row is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the left, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one row at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another row into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

Pump-stack method

2014-09-24T17:04:36Z

Tacomagic:

{{av}}
{{quality|unrated}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingubu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingubu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pump|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
'*'If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one row at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one row at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one row at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last row! Once this row is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the left, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one row at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another row into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Links ==
Kingubu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

Pump-stack method

2014-09-24T14:20:35Z

Tacomagic: Fixed section titles to have consistent capitalization.

{{av}}
{{quality|unrated}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingbu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingbu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double-slit method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The Embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pumps|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
*If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one row at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one row at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one row at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last row! Once this row is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling off and extending the stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the left, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one row at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another row into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Links ==
Kingbu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

Pump-stack method

2014-09-24T14:17:20Z

Tacomagic: Spelling/Grammar changes. Added link section.

{{av}}
{{quality|unrated}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

Kingbu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingbu's method, which he loosely referred to as the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is somewhat slower as you will need to build a [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double Slit Method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump Stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try as flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one level at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe section|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 up/down stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the designated aquifer tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one right as the stair dig is complete, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pumps|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps: First the two pumps and the gear assembly just south of them, and then the water wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*.]]
|}
*If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). You will get a little splatter when it starts up, but this is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work towards setting up a drain. How you accomplish that depends on if you have an aquifer layer below this one or not.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the [[Pump-stack_method#Draining_the_lowest_layer|draining the lowest layer]] section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If your current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. Doing this is called drilling a pilot hole. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one row at a time as doing so avoids "dangerous terrain" cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one row at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one row at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last row! Once this row is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling Off and Extending the Stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-cancellation" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is just as easy. Designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the left, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the next aquifer level to create a drain, wall off the working level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the working level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer below the drain level. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one row at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding onto your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that cancellation, finish off the walling of your current working layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another row into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something similar to the below pictures just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place, and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out things who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's now time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area as the rest of the staircase. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method?
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months or less with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

== Links ==
Kingbu's original [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=143064.0 forum post]. Sadly, the linked video is no longer working.

Pump-stack method

2014-09-24T06:48:47Z

Tacomagic: First revision of the Pump-stack aquifer pierce. Will do more clean-up and add a few sections over the next week.

{{av}}
{{quality|unrated}}

[[file:Pump aquifer main.png|frame|right|The top of a functioning pump-stack aquifer pierce.]]

kingbu posted this novel approach to [[Aquifer]] piercing over on the bay12 forums. Unfortunately his original twitch video has since been taken down; however, this tutorial is based extensively on that video, adding only a few improvements that have since been made to the method. Kingbu's method, which he termed the no-cancellation-spam method but is here called the pump-stack method, is significantly faster than the famed [[Double-slit method]] but does require significantly more materials and labors since it involves building a double [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|Pump stack]]. In it's simplest form, the method draws heavily on the [[Water_wheel#Dwarven_Water_Reactor|Dwarven water reactor]] exploit, so it may not be for everyone. However, it is entirely possible to accomplish the method without the exploit, but it is significantly slower as you will need to build an extensive [[Power|power system]] to run the pump stack.

== Before You Start ==

=== Double Slit Method ===
Go and read the the [[Double-slit method|double-slit method tutorial]], and possibly run through it with an aquifer. Knowing the basics of how aquifers drain is crucial to getting this method to work. Take particular note of the [[Double-slit_method#Draining_an_aquifer|draining an aquifer]] section.

=== Pump Stacks ===
If not already familiar with them, get yourself comfortable with building a powered [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|pump stack]].

== The embark ==

Your best bet for your first try at this aquifer pierce is to bring at least the following:
* 1 Proficient Mechanic/Carpenter
* 3 Proficient Carpenters/Architects
* 1 proficient Wood Cutter/Carpenter
* 2 Proficient miners
* 10 stone.
* 2 picks
* 1 axe
* Lots of food and alcohol.

Embark in an area with an aquifer and plenty of trees. Picking an area with deep soil increases your chance of getting a multi-level aquifer to practice on. It is recommended that you try ass flat of an area as possible for your first attempt. Picking a calm site with invaders turned off will provide a less distracting learning environment.

== The Method ==

=== Prepping the site ===
The first things you'll want to do is queue a lot of trees for cutting, build three carpenter's workshops, a mechanic's workshop, and dig a 4x3 shaft of stairs down from the surface until you hit aquifer. Of importance, dig the shaft one set of stairs at a time and check the level below the stairs before you dig the soil. Stop as soon as you see the damp soil. Do not dig stairs in it yet.

Once the workshops are constructed queue up the following:
* 6 [[Block|wood blocks]] (Once these are done, queue up a bunch more, it'll speed up building the walls later)
* 6 [[Trap component|enormous wooden corkscrews]]
* 6 [[Pipe second|wooden pipe sections]]
* 1 [[Hatch cover|wooden hatch cover]]
* 3 [[Mechanism|rock mechanisms]]

Meanwhile, once you reach aquifer create a decent sized room on the level above the aquifer. You'll need plenty of room to work with; at minimum you'll want at least 10x6 room extending down and to the left of the staircase, with a buffer of 1 tile around it. See below:

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_prep.png‎|frame|left|What your prep site should look like. The aquifer is the layer directly below this]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_pre_dig.png|frame|left|The aquifer level below the stairs, currently not dug out.]]
|}

Next, pause the game and set up a 4x3 dig stairs designation starting in the aquifer and extending 10 or so levels down. This will be used to test for aquifer as you descend. More on this in a bit.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation.png‎|frame|left|10 levels of this, starting with that undug aquifer just below your prep room.]]
|}

Now you're set up and ready to start digging.

=== Getting started ===

Unpause the game and wait for your miner to dig out one of the marked tiles. You're looking for a damp stone cancellation. If you get one after the tile is dug, that means there is more than one level of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_cancel.png‎|frame|left|If there is aquifer below the level you're digging, the tile under the stairs will have the digging designation canceled.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_damp_message.png|frame|left|The message you'll get, and the game will pause.]]
|}

If you get a cancellation, remove the up/down stairs designation on the new damp-stone layer. Then unpause the game and let your miners finish digging out the top layer of the aquifer. If you don't get a cancellation, pause the game, remove the designation, finish this section and then proceed to the "last layer" section.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_designation_cancell.png‎|frame|left|Once your miners have dug the first set of stairs, remove the designation around the revealed stone.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_flooded_stairs.png|frame|left|Let the diggers finish the up/down stairs in the first level of aquifer.]]
|}

Now, head back to the top level. You'll need to designate channels as shown below. The area channeled out on the left will be the drain into which all the water from your aquifer pierce will be pumped.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channel.png‎|frame|left|Set your channeling like this.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_channeled.png|frame|left|After it's done being channeled]]
|}

Now it's time to build the first set of [[Screw pumps|screw pumps]], some [[Gear assembly|gear assemblies]], and the [[Water wheel|water wheel]] that will run the show. The pumps should be set to pump out of the stairway and into the drain. In this case, pump from East to West. You'll do this part in two steps. First the two pumps and the wheel gear assembly, and then the wheel and hanging gear. See below.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_pumps.png‎|frame|left|First, build these two pumps (pumping from the East) and the gear assembly just below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel.png|frame|left|Next, build a waterwheel attached to the bottom gear assembly, and construct an assembly next to the top pump, hanging over the channel*]]
|}
*If your aquifer is only 1 layer thick, you do not need this gear assembly.

Now, that your pumps are built and the power is ready, it's time to start them up. Channel out that missing tile and it'll start the pumps (otherwise you can always enable pumping labor on somebody and just start them manually). Of note, you'll get a little splatter when it starts up. This is normal and nothing to worry about. It stops immediately and will evaporate after a minute or two.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_start.png‎|frame|left|Channeling out this top left tile will start the show.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_splatter.png|frame|left|The water will splash out a bit when it starts, but it only leaves only a few tiles of 1/7 water that will evaporate.]]
|}

Now that your pumps are working, you can see that you've created a few safe places in your staircase to work. How you go about doing that depends on if you have multiple layers of aquifer.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumping.png|frame|left|The pumps have created a nice dry spot to work, but you'll need more than that to fully conquer this aquifer.]]
|}

If your aquifer is only 1-layer deep, go to the "last level" section, and follow the directions there. Otherwise proceed to the next section.

=== Draining an aquifer layer into a lower one ===

If you're current pumped layer has another layer of aquifer below it, then the first thing you need to do is drill down into that aquifer layer and see if there is another aquifer layer below that. To do this, dig up/down stairs under the top right set of stairs in the pit. This corresponds to the tile that is being actively pumped dry by the top of the two pumps. Once again, you're looking for a damp stone cancellation once the stairs are dug. Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one you just dug the stairs in and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_dig.png‎|frame|left|Dig up/down stairs into this tile underneath the aquifer being pumped. This designation might get canceled because of dangerous terrain. If that happens, just restart it, the miners will eventually find a clear path and get it done.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_damp.png|frame|left|Once again, you're looking for the miner to cancel the designation directly below the new up/down stair. In this case the miner cancels the job due to damp stone. The next level is another aquifer.]]
|}

Once you dig those stairs and either get a cancellation or not, remove the up/down stairs designation on the layer below the one where you just dug the stairs and continue.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_designation_cancel.png‎|frame|left|Just like the last time you dug your pilot hole. Whether or not you get a damp stone warning, cancel all designation on that layer. This should leave a single visible tile.]]
|}

At this point, you're ready to dig out the aquifer underneath your pumping layer. It's best to do this one row at a time as this avoids dangerous terrain cancellations.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_first_row.png|frame|left|Starting just below your pilot hole, dig up/down stairs one row at a time.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_second_row.png|frame|left|You do it one row at a time to avoid cancellations due to the water up above creating dangerous terrain.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_third_row.png|frame|left|Those cancellations are irritating in that they often require you to re-designate areas of this level of digging.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_fourth_row.png|frame|left|Last row! Once this row is done, the aquifer layer directly above this one will be draining directly into this layer.]]
|}

At this point you now have a working drain for the entire aquifer layer above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_draining.png‎|frame|left|Your top aquifer layer. As you can see, there is no longer any water visible on the staircase here. It's draining directly into the layer below it. This layer is ready to wall off.]]
|}

=== Walling Off and Extending the Stack ===
Walling off the aquifer is extremely easy in the pump-stack method. All you do is dig out every other tile around the staircase, and then put a wall there. You'll almost never get build suspensions doing the walling like this, which is why it was originally pitched as a "no-job-suspension" method.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig.png‎|frame|left|Set every other tile around the stairs for mining. Remember, aquifers don't drain diagonally so you don't need to count the corners.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug.png|frame|left|Now that they're dug out, you're ready to wall. This is why it was suggested you make extra wood blocks. You can use those to speed up walling.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_walled.png|frame|left|All walled up! Now you're ready to do the rest.]]
|}

Doing everything that's left is every bit as easy. Just designate all the remaining aquifer tiles (being mindful to ignore the diagonal tiles) and replace them with walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dig2.png‎|frame|left|Designate all the remaining tiles. As mentioned, you do not need to dig the diagonals.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_wall_dug2.png|frame|left|All dug out and ready to wall. Once again, you'll only very rarely get a suspended construction.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_walled2.png|frame|left|Now the floor is completely walled.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off and dry, it's time to extend the pump stack onto this floor. To do this, first channel out the four tiles as shown below. While your dwarves are channeling these tiles, set a gear to hang from the gear built on the top level. This will simultaneously act as a power-transfer from the top pumps and give you something to attach the pumps on this level to. You only need to do this gear hang on the very first level of a multi-level aquifer. In a single-level aquifer you'll only be using the top pumps, and in lower levels of a multi-level aquifer, you'll be hanging the pumps from the ones directly above.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these tiles. The tiles on the far right are channeled out so that the pumps can draw water from there. The tiles on the left are channeled out so that the pumps can transmit power to pumps built below them.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_gear.png|frame|left|While the channels are being dug, have your dwarves hang a gear from the one you built on the top level.]]
|}

Once the gear is built and the channels dug, place your pumps. They need to pump from East to West.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_first_pumps.png‎|frame|left|The built pumps. They pump the water out of the channel at the right to the stairs at the left. This water is then pumped out by the pumps on the level above before it has a chance to fall back into the aquifer level below.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_draining.png|frame|left|Just like with the first level, you have a little room to work with on the left, which is enough to get started.]]
|}

So, the first leg of the pump stack is complete. At this point you've either hit more aquifer or you're ready to finish off.

=== Continuing down ===

From here on out each aquifer level is pretty much the same. You dig your pilot up/down stairs into the next level to see if there's an aquifer below that one, make a note if you find more aquifer or not, cancel the designations, dig out the level to create a drain, wall off the level, add the pumps, and move to the next.

Since your pumps are creating your work spot in the top-right of the next level, you dig your up/down stairs below the top-right tile.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_damp.png‎|frame|left|In this case, there's another damp stone designation cancellation. That means more aquifer. Cancel the rest of the up/down stair designations on this level.]]
|}

Once you've done your pilot hole, use up/down stairs to dig out the level one row at a time.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_first_row.png|frame|left|This time moving from right to left starting with the two tiles just South of the pilot hole.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_fourth_dug.png|frame|left|Once you're done, you've created another drain. Time to wall off the level above.]]
|}

Once you've got your drain set, wall off the level. Or, if you're lucky enough to have an aquifer in a sandstone or conglomerate level, just smooth the walls.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_third_draining.png|frame|left|What luck! Sandstone, you can smooth it rather than mining out the aquifer and building walls. That save a lot of time!]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_smooth.png|frame|left|Smoothed and dry! Faster and easier than building walls.]]
|}

Now that you're walled off, it's time to extend the pump-stack down to this level. All you need to do is channel 4 tiles and build the pumps. These new pumps will hang from the ones above through the power transfer channel. Remember, these pumps are facing the opposite direction, so you need to mirror everything left to right.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_channel.png|frame|left|Channel out these four tiles. The ones near the wall let the water into the pump, and the ones toward the center transfer power and give you a place to hang the next set of pumps.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_second_pumps.png|frame|left|The pumps are in place, pumping from the West.]]
|}

And with that, you're ready for the next level. Just keep adding on to your pump stack until you finally dig a pilot hole without a damp stone cancellation. Once you get that cancellation, finish off the walling of your current layer, and proceed to the last layer section.

Also of note: if your aquifer is deep enough, that one water wheel up top probably won't be enough. Adding a second wheel is usually necessary if your aquifer is deeper than 3 layers.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_top_wheel2.png‎|frame|left|A second wheel added to the power generator. In the unlikely event that you need a third wheel, just extend the wall to the West and dig another row into the drain.]]
|}

=== Draining the lowest layer ===

The lowest layer is always the problem layer for any aquifer pierce method because there's nothing to drain it directly into. The double-slit method is able to get around this by draining small spaces and utilizing clever wall building and evaporation to finish off the last layer. Unfortunately, that isn't an option here.

Once you've found the bottom layer, you'll be looking at something like this just under where you dug your pilot hole. At this point you may as well cancel not only this set of designations, but all other remaining designations you put in place to locate the damp stone. At this point, you have an opportunity to check your work. There will be a single visible tile under the pilot hole. If this tile is a layer stone, or something that doesn't appear in sedimentary rock, then you're in the clear. If it's ore, gems, or stone that can appear in sedimentary layers, then proceed carefully, as you might just be digging into an ore vein and might still have some aquifer to deal with.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp.png‎|frame|left|A pilot hole that leaves the entire designation intact.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_no_damp_cancel_deg.png‎|frame|left|Check the single tile you can see. If it's something that can't appear in sedimentary layers, then you're good to go. In this case, we have slate, so we know we're at the bottom.]]
|}

At this point, dig out the layer your pilot hole is in (this is the bottom layer of the aquifer) and wall-off the layer above the bottom layer like normal.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_bottom.png‎|frame|left|The bottom layer mined out with up/down stairs. It acts like a drain just like any other layer.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below.png‎|frame|left|Once again, it's good to check your work. We've got solid slate here, so we know that we're actually at the bottom.]]
|}

Once you've got your pump-stack on the layer above the bottom in place and they're pumping water out of the lowest layer, it's time to finally use that hatch cover you built near the beginning of this pierce. Have the hatch cover built in the corner you would normally use to dig a pilot hole. You are probably going to get a lot of build suspensions when placing this hatch cover. Just keep unsuspending it and it'll eventually get built.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_hatch.png‎|frame|left|Normally a pilot hole goes here, but on the last layer, you build a hatch cover.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_suspended.png‎|frame|left|You'll see this a lot. Keep unsuspending and it'll eventually get built.]]
|}

Once the hatch cover is down, close it firmly so you don't get animals down there. If at any point you built a stone stockpile or have stone enabled on any stockpile in your fort, now is a good time to disable those stockpiles. You want to prevent anyone but miners from going through the hatch you just built, so preventing animal pathing and stone-collection keeps out dwarves who shouldn't be down there. That hatch cover is to hold back the water while your miners dig a drain.

Now that your hatch is in place, it's basic water draining 101. Dig a single 1 tile shaft of up/down stairs under that hatch cover down a few levels. You can either try taking that shaft down until you hit the caverns and drain into there, or you can aim to drain off the side of the map. In this case, it will be assumed that you'll chose to do a side-drain. Once you're down a few levels, mine a passage to the closest map edge.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_below_dig.png‎|frame|left|A single tile shaft of up/down stairs under the hatch. You'll want to go down at least 3 or 4 z-levels.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain.png‎|frame|left|Once you're down a few levels, dig a passage all the way to the edge of the map.]]
|}

Once you've got the passage mined out, smooth the tiles at the edge of the map, and then carve them into fortifications. This will be your drain.
{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_end.png|frame|left|The edge of the map. You can't mine those edge tiles.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_smooth.png|frame|left|Instead, smooth them.]]
|-
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_fortification.png|frame|left|Finally, carve them into fortifications. You now have a drain.]]
|}

With the drain ready, it's not time to connect it to the bottom layer of your aquifer. You do this by digging out up/down stairs in the same 4x3 area that the rest of the starcase is in. Dig them starting at your drain and move upwards one floor at a time, connecting the shaft to your aquifer layer at the very end.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs.png|frame|left|Start digging the 4x3 shaft of up/down stairs here. Once they're done, dig them on the next level up.]]
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_stairs_up.png|frame|left|Do them one layer at at time moving up. Eventually, they will connect to your bottom aquifer layer.]]
|}

Once that shaft hooks up to your bottom aquifer layer, it'll start draining down the shaft and off the map.

{|class="wikitable1"
|-valign="top"
| [[Image:Pump_aquifer_drain_working.png|frame|left|The drain doing its thing.]]
|}

At this point, remove the hatch cover and wall-off or smooth the bottom layer. You're done! All you need to do now is wait for the water in the drain passage to work its way off the map and evaporate.

== F.A.Q. ==

*Q: Why use this method instead of the 2-slit method.
*A: This method is quite a bit faster. You can breach a 7-layer aquifer in 3 months with this method, which is less than half the time a 2-slit method would take. It also involves a ton less cancellation spam on the buildings. In a typical breach, likely you'll only see a few designation cancels here and there, and the suspension spam on the hatch cover.

*Q: Why wouldn't you use this method?
*A: This method is very resource intensive and crutches on the dwarven water reactor exploit. While you can do it without the exploit by providing power in some other way, you cannot get past the fact that it uses a lot of resources. Just for the operating parts, at minimum, this method requires 9 wood and 3 stone for the top pumping system, and then 6 wood per layer. In a treeless embark, that's a lot wood to bring with. In contrast, the 2-slit method can be achieved using only 6 pieces of wood, or 2 pieces of wood and 5 rock-blocks. Additionally, this method requires 2 additional pieces of walling material per floor over what is needed by the 2-slit method.

*Q: I forgot to bring stone and it's all trapped under the aquifer! Is there a way to do this without the stone!?
*A: Yes there is. There is an appendix to this tutorial in the process of being made that walks through a method that operates without stone.

*Q: Is there a way to do this with dwarf labor instead of power?
*A: For shallow aquifers, it is certainly possible. With deeper aquifers it becomes less likely as any 1 dwarf taking a break makes the whole pumping chain fall apart. It is probably not entirely impossible, just very impractical.

File:Pump aquifer drain working.png

2014-09-24T06:33:46Z

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File:Pump aquifer drain stairs up.png

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File:Pump aquifer drain stairs.png

2014-09-24T06:29:13Z

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