Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

v0.31:Adamantine

2010-04-04T12:53:13Z

Shadow archmagi:

{{spoiler}}

Adamantine is the best metal ore in the game flat out. Processed from raw adamantine into strands which can then be made into various items. It is USUALLY found in the very deepest layers of the map, in the form of tubes leading down into the magma sea layer of the map. Breaching these will lead to the {{l|Hidden_Fun_Stuff|HFS}} or a {{l|forgotten beast}}, for lots of {{l|Fun|FUN}}(tm). Reports have been made of there being SURFACE deposits of the stuff, but this is incredibly rare, and should not be trusted as anything other than a bug for the moment.

See also: {{l|raw adamantine}}
== Processing ==

Adamantine strands are extracted from {{l|raw adamantine}} at a {{l|craftsdwarf's workshop}}. The {{l|strand extraction}} labor must be enabled for a dwarf to perform the extraction. The process is extremely slow for an unskilled laborer.

== Important Note ==

One of the many beneficial qualities of adamantine is that it is nigh weightless. Unfortunately, with the new version, this has considerable drawbacks. Hitting someone with a hammer that weighs nothing is not very effective.

{{D for Dwarf}}
==Origins of Adamantine and Slade==
Back in the mists of time, the Gods decided to create the world. To do so they had to find a way to heat it in the cold voids of space. Demon kind had already forged their own world out of the vile substance {{l|Slade}}, a stone anathema to all creation and only able to be worked through the vile rituals they had created. For slade was truly "dead" stone, with no life in it at all.

Deciding to both imprison their greatest enemies and create a home for their creations, they poured into the skies of the demon's world "living" rock(known to mortals as {{l|semi-molten rock}}. Rock fresh with the life of creation, burning hot. The gods knew that if it were not constantly heated, this living rock would cool, and thus the demons, fools that they were, constantly attack the living rock, not realizing that their attacks simply heat the rock again and again, keeping it alive. Unfortunately, as the gods began to pour more and more of the rock onto their creation, they found it quickly lost it's life when removed too far from the Demons. It would only remelt once it touched the living rock, creating vast seas of magma that heated the tunnels above. Worse, the living rock itself had been disturbed by this process, creating gaping holes for the demons to escape from, killing and maiming the first creations of the gods, warping those they could find into the terrible Forgotten Beasts, leaving the {{l|Titans}} safe on the surface.

Knowing this state of affairs could not last if their weaker creations, the first mortals, were to survive. The Gods created a new substance, imbued with their power: Adamantine. The beautiful aqua colored ore totally repelled the demons, sealing the entrances that the living rock could no longer seal, preventing the demons from escaping.

Unfortunately, as time passed and the first mortals began to carve their civilization from both the surface and the underworld, they discovered the vast shafts of this amazing substance, and began to mine the divine substance, instantly realizing its potency. In doing so, they removed the great barriers the gods had placed in order to keep the demons sealed. The demons rose up, slaughtering thousands and escaping into the above world, often rising to the top of civilizations, such as the Goblins. Upon these sites they raised carved from the vile Slade that only they could work. Brave adventurers and champions of the gods forged special swords made from the divine adamantine, and venture into these dark places to seal the demons within hell once more. Leaving their swords buried in these places, those who survived swore to defend them for all eternity, binding themselves with oaths of such might that they surpassed death itself. They remain, even today, as zombies and skeletons, driven by their dieing thought "none must take the sword!" and nothing more. These undead are totally possessed by their duty to defend the ancient demonic structures from all interlopers, and have been the death of many a poor explorer.

v0.31:Demon

2010-04-03T13:18:39Z

Shadow archmagi: Created page with '{{av}} {{spoiler}} ==Demons== Demons inhabit Hell. At this time it appears that they are randomly generated at worldgen, creating unique horrors for every player. Examples of po…'

{{av}}
{{spoiler}}
==Demons==

Demons inhabit Hell. At this time it appears that they are randomly generated at worldgen, creating unique horrors for every player. Examples of possible demons include giant centipedes made of ash that hunger for blood, eyeless mosquitoes that spit icicles, and emaciated fruitbats with giant clicking mandibles.

The only common feature to all demons seems to be flight and a hatred for all things dwarfy.

40d:Ice

2008-07-29T13:24:52Z

Shadow archmagi:

'''Ice''' is [[water]] that has been frozen by cold temperatures, usually because of [[winter]]. Any water that is [[outside]] will freeze during winter, while it will stay the same if it is [[inside]].

A tile of water will freeze into an '''ice wall''', while creating an '''ice floor''' one [[Z-Axis]] above it. The ice wall will be the same no matter how deep the water is. The floor can be walked on freely, and there doesn't seem to be any kind of thin, breakable ice. The ice wall can be [[mine]]d through, which leaves the above ice floor intact. [[Channel]]ing the ice floor will destroy both the floor and the wall. The ice wall will apparently melt into water of depth 7 [http://www.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Talk:Water] when warmer temperatures arrive. Presumably the ice floor will melt as well, but whether it turns into water or just disappears is unknown at the moment.

Ice can be mined through without causing a [[flood]], making Winter an ideal time to get rid of any [[lake]]s that are in the way.

== Ice as a Stone ==

Ice appears as a light blue stone which can be found by mining through an ice wall. Ice can be used to build [[construction]]s and [[workshops]]. Ice boulders and objects made of ice will melt when exposed to warmer temperatures (such as inside a fortress), giving it rather limited use. Nevertheless, workshops made of ice have a certain novelty to them, and it's even possible to make [[furnace]]s out of ice, as counter-intuitive as that sounds.

The games refers to Ice boulders as "water". It doesn't appear in any stockpile options or the manager, but it does appear under the "stones" section of the [[Stocks]] menu.

== Out of Water ==

As ice takes the place of water, entire water supplies can be completely frozen on colder areas. This can depopulate an entire fortress in just the first winter if they're unprepared. The only way to counter this is to make a water pit inside beforehand, or brew enough drinks. Oddly enough, drinks do not require water to make.
[[category:Map_tiles]]

== Mining Hazard ==

Watch out when digging through ice into (subterranean) unfrozen water resorts. The space cleared by the miner will freeze solid again instantly, encasing the advancing miner into a wall of ice. This means not only the loss of a valuable dwarf, but also of his now inaccessible equipment.

== Smoothing Ice ==

Smoothed ice walls are called straight ice wall, smoothed ice floors all called level ice floor, engraved ice floors are called sculpted ice floors and engraved Ice walls are called sculpted ice walls.

== Melting Ice ==
It can be very important to be able to extract water from permanently-frozen ice (for instance on cold northern maps) in order to give water to the wounded. This can be done with magma. Dig out a tunnel one z-level below the ice sheet and fill it with magma. The ice on the above z-level will melt. You can see this happening here: http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-153-meltingwateronglacier

{{Water FAQ}}

40d Talk:Demon

2008-07-28T18:00:05Z

Shadow archmagi:

{{spoiler}}

== Additions ==

If anyone has tried other defenses against Demons and they either failed or they worked then please add it to the article.

== Thoughts on Demons ==

(from the raws) It seems that all demons can swim... except for spirits of fire (the only ones without lungs, heart, brain exc)... i see spirits of fire as the most dangerous for this reason... perhaps water puts them out? tentacal and frog demons seem a bit less of a threat, due to their lack of fire breath. Also, none of the Demons are fireImmune_super... which means dragonbreath hurts them... so... demons vs dragons anyone?--[[User:Pbhead|Pbhead]] 02:04, 13 December 2007 (EST)
:I agree on spirits of fire being the most dangerous. From my experience with them they are quite vulnerable to crossbow bolts (killed a total of 16 exclusively this way). As giant cave spiders don't even try to shoot web trough fortifications I think that fortifications and marksdwarves are the way to deal with the demons. Melee champions in steel are way superior to any demons but the problem is that they are very vulnerable to fire ("bug 000001" in reported bugs) and are frequently not able to get close (even worse if there is at least 1 z-level up as spirits of fire WILL fly up). Piling spirits of fire with lots of wardogs or anything else is useless due to their firebreath attack. Don't even try to counter demons with less then 6-8 elite marksdwarves or 50-60 novice ones or an extremely long 1 tile wide corridor with a masterpiece ballista + 2 legendary siege operators + a ballista arrows stockpile. Crushing them with bridges could also work if you don't consider it a cheat and are sure that the demons won't have time to destroy the bridges as IMHO they will actively try to.--[[User:Another|Another]] 15:42, 13 December 2007 (EST)

== Possible defences? ==

when i breach my pit, (eventually) i hope to be able to A: seal it off quickly without losing too much admantine. B if that fails, have a large "dwarven toliet" (a artificial river with a large water fall...) if i am lucky, the water will be fast enough to sweep even the non-spirits of fire down the waterfall... where they will hopefully go *splat*. IF that fails... i plan to have a LOONG corridor, with fortifications on either side, and leet archers behind the fortifications and at the end of the tunnel, seige weapons, and spear masters hidden behind blind spots. and if that fails, hopefully by then i will have sealed my mines off from the main fortress. --[[User:Pbhead|Pbhead]] 02:04, 13 December 2007 (EST)

== Spoiler warning? ==
We should probably have a spoiler warning for this page, especially for the picture of the pits. --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 10:05, 1 January 2008 (EST)
:Agreed and added --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 16:16, 16 January 2008 (EST)

== Upright spear repeating traps ==
I assume these work and are effective, I was wondering if this was considered too cheap to use or was known to be ineffectual (maybe they destroy them before they walk into them, as they are buildings).

This is my first demon attack since df-23a, and I've been preparing multiple types of active defense in different layers, (ballistas on z-8, spears on z-7, pit with fortifications and 18 elite/champion marks-dwarves on z-5/6/4 [with 3 open z-levels to see how they deal with spirits of fire], 7 mace dwarves and 7 sword-dwarves with 62 war dogs for lulz if they get to z-3 and re-walling at z-2) so it'll be a learning experience. My last successful demon defense hinged on a drawbridge...wasn't as fun as this should be.

The spoiler is there for the eerily glowing pits, so I think once more people post success/defeats on the demon page, or specific demon information, such as the different types and abilities, the spoiler should be here as well.
:Spoiler Warning added --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 16:16, 16 January 2008 (EST)

== Cage Traps==
has any one caught a demon in a cage trap? if you could catch them that would be the easest way to deal with them. --[[Rock n rat]]
: I'm afraid demons are immune to cage, weapon, and stone-fall traps, although they will trigger pressure plates and the like. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 14:00, 28 July 2008 (EDT)

== The Little Brother ==
I have added my favorite anti-demon tactic; massed archers on a single tile, to the wiki. It works reliably for me. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 14:00, 28 July 2008 (EDT)

40d:Demon

2008-07-28T17:58:31Z

Shadow archmagi:

{{spoiler}}

[[Image:Mountain_air_pocket.JPG|thumb|right|250px|Here, demons appear as red and green ampersands.]]

A Demon is an evil fast moving creature that will either severely wound or kill your [[dwarf|dwarves]] and [[animal]]s. Their attacks include projectile fireballs and hand to hand combat. Most are living and as such are especially vulnerable to weapons with high critical boost such as [[spear]]s and [[crossbow]] [[bolt]]s.

Demons are immune to [[Trap#Stone-fall_Trap|stone-fall traps]], [[Trap#Weapon_Trap|weapon traps]], [[Trap#Cage_Trap|cage traps]] and will destroy your [[door]]s and [[floodgate]]s. At least some of them are able to fly and survive under [[Water|water]] and [[Magma|magma]].

==Defenses against Demons==

The easiest way to deal with demons, of course, is the "dwarven atom smasher" - crushing demons under a [[bridge|drawbridge]] will completely destroy them (and anything else). However, this method is frequently seen as somewhat "cheap" and certainly by doing this you deny yourself one of the most [[fun]] encounters in Dwarf Fortress.

Demons, as large, living enemies, are somewhat susceptible to piercing damage - [[spear]] and [[arrow]]s work well. A well trained, well equipped [[speardwarf]] can mix it up with frog and [[tentacle demon]]s, however will likely not get the chance to close with a [[Spirit_of_fire|Spirit of Fire]] before being immolated by the Spirit's ranged [[fire]] attack. Spirits also lack most vital organs that spears target in any case. Spirits can be reliably brought down by [[marksdwarf|marksdwarves]], but expect losses on both sides of that matchup. You can signifigantly improve your survival rate by placing the marksdwaves behind [[fortification]]s - the incoming fireballs have a chance to not penetrate the fortifications, which is higher the farther away the demon fired from.

Finally, [[siege weapon]]s can be useful against demons. A [[ballista|ballista]] bolt will kill a demon, and a ballista fired down a narrow hallway to channel the demons into your field of fire will kill several. Use [[wall]]s and fortifications to give your siege crew some protection from fireballs, and prepare a backup plan as your crew will panic and run once the demons get too close, which will happen ''quickly'' as the demons are quite fast.

One effective anti-demon tactic is to equip your entire fortress with crossbows and quivers and arrows and order them all into 1-dwarf squads. Station every one dwarf squad on the same tile. The result should be a single tile capable of launching 60+bolts in seconds. Set a space 4-6 tiles closer to the demons as a meeting zone; spare animals will pile up there. In this method, any approaching demons will 'bump' into the horses and cats, and then be obliterated by incredible crossbow fire. Although eventually your defending creatures may be slaughtered, this tactic can allow you to survive demon pits with ease.

{{Game_Data|[CREATURE:DEMON]
[NAME:demon:demons:demonic]
[TILE:'&'][COLOR:4:0:1]
[MODVALUE:50]
[FANCIFUL][ENDING][POWER]
[FIREBREATH][FIREIMMUNE][LIKES_FIGHTING][MAGMA_VISION]
[FLIER]
[TRAPAVOID][CAN_LEARN][CAN_SPEAK]
[GENPOWER:5]
[BLOODTYPE:0]
[BUTCHERABLE_NONSTANDARD][EVIL]
[BUILDINGDESTROYER:2]
[NOFEAR][NOEXERT]
[CANOPENDOORS]
[PREFSTRING:terrifying features]
[BODY:HUMANOID:TAIL:2EYES:2EARS:NOSE:2LUNGS:HEART:GUTS:ORGANS:HUMANOID_JOINTS:THROAT:NECK:SPINE:BRAIN:5FINGERS:5TOES:MOUTH]
[SIZE:16]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTYPE:MOUTH:bite:bites:1:6:BURN][ATTACKFLAG_CANLATCH]
[ATTACK:SECOND:BYTYPE:GRASP:punch:punches:1:2:BLUDGEON][ATTACKFLAG_WITH]
[NO_DRINK][NO_EAT][NO_SLEEP]
[EQUIPS]
[FAT:3]
[ALL_ACTIVE]
[STANDARD_FLESH]
[HOMEOTHERM:10095]
[SWIMS_INNATE][SWIM_SPEED:2500]
[PERSONALITY:ANXIETY:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:DEPRESSION:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:SELF_CONSCIOUSNESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:VULNERABILITY:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:FRIENDLINESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:ASSERTIVENESS:100:100:100]
[PERSONALITY:CHEERFULNESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:TRUST:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:STRAIGHTFORWARDNESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:ALTRUISM:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:COOPERATION:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:SYMPATHY:0:0:0]
[SPHERE:FIRE]
[SPHERE:DEATH]
[SPHERE:TORTURE]
}}

'''[[Frog demon]]''': Arguably the easiest demon. Powerful combatant and can swim.

{{Game_Data|[CREATURE:FROG_DEMON]
[NAME:frog demon:frog demons:frog demon]
[TILE:'&'][COLOR:2:0:1]
[MODVALUE:20]
[FANCIFUL][DEFENDER]
[TRAPAVOID][CAN_LEARN][CAN_SPEAK][FIREIMMUNE]
[AMPHIBIOUS][UNDERSWIM]
[LIKES_FIGHTING]
[GENPOWER:5]
[BLOODTYPE:0]
[CANOPENDOORS]
[BUTCHERABLE_NONSTANDARD][EVIL]
[BUILDINGDESTROYER:2]
[NOFEAR][NOEXERT]
[PREFSTRING:impressive bellies]
[BODY:HUMANOID:2EYES:NOSE:2LUNGS:HEART:GUTS:ORGANS:HUMANOID_JOINTS:THROAT:NECK:SPINE:BRAIN:4FINGERS:4TOES:MOUTH]
[SIZE:12]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTYPE:MOUTH:bite:bites:1:6:GORE][ATTACKFLAG_CANLATCH]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTYPE:GRASP:punch:punches:1:2:BLUDGEON][ATTACKFLAG_WITH]
[NO_DRINK][NO_EAT][NO_SLEEP]
[ALL_ACTIVE]
[NO_GENDER]
[STANDARD_FLESH]
[SWIMS_INNATE][SWIM_SPEED:2500]
[PERSONALITY:FRIENDLINESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:CHEERFULNESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:TRUST:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:STRAIGHTFORWARDNESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:ALTRUISM:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:COOPERATION:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:SYMPATHY:0:0:0]
[SPHERE:MUCK]
[SPHERE:WATER]
[HOMEOTHERM:10040]
}}

'''[[Tentacle_demon|Tentacle Demon]]''': Corrupt intentions.

{{Game_Data|[CREATURE:TENTACLE_DEMON]
[NAME:tentacle demon:tentacle demons:tentacle demon]
[TILE:'&'][COLOR:5:0:1]
[MODVALUE:20]
[FANCIFUL][DEFENDER]
[TRAPAVOID][CAN_LEARN][CAN_SPEAK][FIREIMMUNE]
[LIKES_FIGHTING]
[GENPOWER:5]
[BLOODTYPE:0]
[CANOPENDOORS]
[BUTCHERABLE_NONSTANDARD][EVIL]
[BUILDINGDESTROYER:2]
[NOFEAR][NOEXERT]
[PREFSTRING:corrupt intentions]
[BODY:HUMANOID_SIMPLE:SIX_TENTACLES:2EYES:NOSE:2LUNGS:HEART:GUTS:ORGANS:THROAT:NECK:SPINE:BRAIN:5FINGERS:5TOES:MOUTH]
[SIZE:12]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTYPE:MOUTH:bite:bites:1:6:GORE][ATTACKFLAG_CANLATCH]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTYPE:GRASP:punch:punches:1:2:BLUDGEON][ATTACKFLAG_WITH]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTOKEN:RUTC:stab:stabs:1:3:PIERCE][ATTACKFLAG_WITH]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTOKEN:LUTC:stab:stabs:1:3:PIERCE][ATTACKFLAG_WITH]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTOKEN:RMTC:stab:stabs:1:3:PIERCE][ATTACKFLAG_WITH]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTOKEN:LMTC:stab:stabs:1:3:PIERCE][ATTACKFLAG_WITH]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTOKEN:RLTC:stab:stabs:1:3:PIERCE][ATTACKFLAG_WITH]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTOKEN:LLTC:stab:stabs:1:3:PIERCE][ATTACKFLAG_WITH]
[NO_DRINK][NO_EAT][NO_SLEEP]
[ALL_ACTIVE]
[MALE]
[STANDARD_FLESH]
[HOMEOTHERM:10069]
[SWIMS_INNATE][SWIM_SPEED:2500]
[PERSONALITY:IMMODERATION:100:100:100]
[PERSONALITY:FRIENDLINESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:CHEERFULNESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:TRUST:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:STRAIGHTFORWARDNESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:ALTRUISM:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:COOPERATION:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:SYMPATHY:0:0:0]
[SPHERE:DEPRAVITY]
[SPHERE:THRALLDOM]
}}

'''[[Spirit_of_fire|Spirit of Fire]]''': Arguably the hardest demon. Cannot swim, launches fireballs, is surrounded by fire, a powerful combatant, and can fly. Limbs sever when broken.

{{Game_Data|[CREATURE:SPIRIT_OF_FIRE]
[NAME:spirit of fire:spirits of fire:spirit of fire]
[TILE:'&'][COLOR:6:0:1]
[FLIER]
[MODVALUE:20]
[FANCIFUL][DEFENDER]
[TRAPAVOID][CAN_LEARN][CAN_SPEAK]
[FIREBREATH][FIREIMMUNE][LIKES_FIGHTING][MAGMA_VISION]
[GENPOWER:5]
[BLOODTYPE:0]
[CANOPENDOORS]
[NOT_BUTCHERABLE][EVIL]
[NOPAIN][EXTRAVISION][NOBREATHE][NOBLEED][NOSTUN][NONAUSEA][NOEMOTION][RECKLESS]
[NOSTUCKINS][SEVERONBREAKS][NOSKULL][NOSKIN][NOBONES][NOMEAT][NOTHOUGHT][NOEXERT]
[BUILDINGDESTROYER:2]
[NOFEAR][NOEXERT]
[PREFSTRING:firey glow]
[ITEMCORPSE:BAR:NO_SUBTYPE:ASH:NO_MATGLOSS]
[NOSMELLYROT]
[BODY:HUMANOID_SIMPLE]
[SIZE:11]
[ATTACK:MAIN:BYTYPE:GRASP:punch:punches:1:6:BURN][ATTACKFLAG_WITH]
[NO_DRINK][NO_EAT][NO_SLEEP]
[ALL_ACTIVE]
[NO_GENDER]
[FIXED_TEMP:25000]
[PERSONALITY:FRIENDLINESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:CHEERFULNESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:TRUST:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:STRAIGHTFORWARDNESS:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:ALTRUISM:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:COOPERATION:0:0:0]
[PERSONALITY:SYMPATHY:0:0:0]
[SPHERE:FIRE]
}}
[[Category:Creatures]][[Category:Spoilers]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2008-07-25T20:08:56Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Wrestling */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that fated your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

If you start out with a high [[weapon]] [[skill]] (except [[bow]]s and [[crossbow]]s) and also an above novice [[armor]] and/or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] [[skill]], you'll start out with [[armor]] and/or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] as well.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mayor's house. You will see the Mayor (purple) and probably several [[drunks]]. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the drunks and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid. Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
Fighting is extremely detailed in adventure mode! This adds a lot of fun in the battle, since there are so many ways to injure your opponents/victims.

=== Ranged ===
If you have a [[weapon | bow]] or [[weapon | crossbow]], you can shoot [[arrow]]s or [[bolt]]s at enemies. You can also throw anything you can carry at enemies. Ranged attacks are highly efficient when you hit.
To fire your bow or crossbow, press {{key|f}}, and move the marker to the enemy you wish to fire upon, and press {{key|Enter}}. Same with throwing stuff, only press {{key|t}} and choose which item to throw, then choose the victim.
''Note: Throwing is slightly bugged, but in a good and fun way. You can throw captured flies, socks and even [[vomit]] if you want, with lethal effects. (Sand piercing lungs, flies piercing hearts etc..)''

=== Close combat ===
To fight a [[creature]] by hitting it, you just need to walk towards the [[creature]]. Alternatively, you can press {{key|A}} and choose your target. After you've pressed {{key|A}} and are given the list of targets to attack, you can use {{key|Enter}} to choose between a normal attack and [[wrestling]] before selecting which opponent you wish to target.
A normal attack will make the adventurer hit the target with whatever [[weapon]] he holds. If he is holding no [[weapon]], he will bash with his [[Armor# Shields and Bucklers|shield]]. If he has neither a weapon nor a [[Armor# Shields and Bucklers|shield]], he will either punch his target or grab a random appendage.
In [[wrestling]], you must spend a few rounds locking the target's limbs to be able to break and splinter them (good times). Alternately, you could try gouging, pinching, or strangling them instead.

=== Wounds ===
Your adventurer will get wounded by enemies or falling (jumping) off cliffs. The best (and only?) way to heal, is to press {{key|T}}, and travel at least 1 tile in any direction. Your adventurer will be fully healed then, unless your character has wounds to the neck or head. Read more about wounds [[Wound|HERE]].

== Tips for survival ==
Dying is easy in adventurer mode, especially if you've just started out. Following these simple tips will increase your chance to survive, and reach those nice stats and legendary [[skills]]! These tips are for the faint of heart only. If you like the challenges of the game, feel free to do the opposite of what these tips say.

=== Basic Needs ===
Your adventurer gets hungry, thirsty, and drowsy, make sure your [[waterskin]] is always filled(fresh [[water]] at the [[Temple|temples]]), you carry 1-2 stacks[5] of [[food]], and get some sleep sooner or later.

Fresh [[water]] can be found sometimes at [[Temple|temples]] and always in [[River|rivers]]. [[Water]] from [[Murky pool|pools]] is not considered fresh [[water]].

In order to obtain [[water]], you need a [[waterskin]]. Unless you are an [[elf]], you will start with a full one at the beginning of the game, but you can also buy additional ones in the [[Site|towns]].

Move right next to the [[water]] source and press {{k|I}} (capital 'i', that is) to interact in a complex manner with an item. You will be shown your [[inventory]]. Select your [[waterskin]] by pressing the letter shown to its left. If the [[inventory]] is so long that the [[waterskin]] is not shown, you may need to press {{k|/}} or {{k|*}} on the number pad to move through the pages. If you have done everything correctly, the game should offer you one or more options from which specific tile you wish to draw the [[water]]. Simply select one choice by pressing the letter to its left and the remaining free space in the [[waterskin]] will be filled with [[water]].

Note that you can not refill [[Waterskin|waterskins]] that are inside of [[Backpack|backpacks]]. You need to {{k|r}}emove it from the [[backpack]] first. Also note that you can't put [[Waterskin|waterskins]] you are holding directly into the [[backpack]] (it is not accepted as a container for that purpose). First, {{k|d}}rop the [[waterskin]] and then {{k|g}}et it again. It should be put inside the [[backpack]] automatically.

Solid food will eventually rot away. However, if you move on the travel map, you will not consume any food or water. Only if you stay on a [[Site map]] for a longer time will you first feel thirst and later hunger. A normal random [[encounter]] usually never last long enough to even generate thirst. Searching a [[quest]] [[cave]] can take longer (they are quite winding), but usually, you will not go beyond thirst if you only want to find the [[quest]] monster and kill it. Thus, carrying large stocks of food is not recommended, unless you plan something that will take a lot of time.

(''Warning:'' NEVER, EVER sleep in a hostile place, next thing you know you will be cloven asunder by your own sword, or some nasty critters will be feasting upon you)

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some members to your party, you will not only gain extra damage output. You will also have someone else to take the damage instead of YOU!
When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks! They are found in human towns inside the tavern with the Mayor (The building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill wrestling and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

=== Avoid the impossible ===
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

==== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ====
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although i eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And i was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them i threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) i grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

==== Arrows ====
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

=== Training yourself ===
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with pebbles, pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

''Alternate way'' : It could be difficult to repeat the {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} sequence without making mistake. So you can just alternate {{k|t}}-{{k|enter}} quickly : The first {{k|t}} will open the inventory, the second will chose the rock which is in "t" position, and {{k|enter}} will throw it. In the same fashion, when collecting rock, prefer a tile where the rock is on "b" position : If you quickly alternate {{k|g}} and {{k|a}}, sometime you will open the [a]nnouncement panel, wich will slow you down.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable- train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferrably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alike.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

Alternatively, wait until nightfall, and wrestle a sleeping enemy. Sleeping enemies are unconscious, and cannot detect you if you sneak. The autocombat will cause your adventurer to break limbs, grab and release bits of clothing, and other nonlethal attacks. Occasionally random chance will cause a chokehold; simply step back a tile and then resume. In this manner, you can train wrestling extremely quickly without the dangers of wandering in an undead zone.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below.

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

==== Armor and Shield Use ====

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor- a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

=== Summary ===
*Recruit some living spear-catchers
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs/sand at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster
[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d Talk:Adventurer mode

2008-07-25T18:42:07Z

Shadow archmagi:

How -do- you capture flies, anyway? --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 19:13, 5 November 2007 (EST)

How do I jump off cliffs in adventure mode? --[[User:Keizo|Keizo]]

The [http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi forums] would probably be a better place to ask questions like these, though the movement thing would probably go well in this article. To 'catch' flies, simply be on the same tile as a swarm of them, and {{key|g}}et one as if it were an item on the ground. To jump off cliffs or other such features, hold Alt while moving, and it'll give you a choice of where you want to go in that direction. --[[User:Hesitris|Hesitris]] 06:54, 16 November 2007 (EST)

The best way to get live animals is to "L"ook/search in the square, which will dig up a multitude of small bugs. Store them in your backpack and go to town with "Spinning Live Cockroach Hits The Cougar In The Head! Its Brain Is Broken!"-ness. --[[User:DuckofDoom|DuckofDoom]] 20:19, 2 December 2007 (EST)

It mentions that you start out in the Mayor's House in a human town. Isn't that technically like the Town Hall or City Tavern, not the mayor's house. --[[User:Wahnsinniger|Wahnsinniger]] 20:57, 3 December 2007 (EST)

Erm, pressing P doesn't equip items. Instead it tries to put them in containers.[[User:Patarak|Patarak]] 02:59, 12 February 2008 (EST)

: Fixed "P", here's some news from 38a though: i met a legendary bowman, and she told me off when i asked her to join. No more <s>meat shields</s> companions except for Drunks now. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 23:40, 18 February 2008 (EST)

:: Actually, its just the legendaries that ignore you. Lower class warriors are always happy to help. Sometimes they'll do your job for you!--[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 05:50, 7 March 2008 (EST)

I think it might be a good idea to talk about making adventure mode run faster on this page. I can run a 6X6 fortress just fine, but for some reason, Adventure mode is slow as Toady's implementation of a UI. [[User:Pi|Pi]]

Might wanna add a note that it apears that drunks are fairly good at using captured weapons. Twice now I've hada drunk wield a spear with incredible skill, killing an ettin, and one time, me when i tried to take the spear back after it was lodged into a werewolf and he grabbed it.--[[User:Darkone|Darkone]] 18:52, 2 May 2008 (EDT)

Just added a note to wrestling noting that unconscious people are commonly found on beds and make terrific wrestling buddies.--[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 14:42, 25 July 2008 (EDT)

40d:Adventurer mode

2008-07-25T18:38:25Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Wrestling */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that fated your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

If you start out with a high [[weapon]] [[skill]] (except [[bow]]s and [[crossbow]]s) and also an above novice [[armor]] and/or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] [[skill]], you'll start out with [[armor]] and/or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] as well.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mayor's house. You will see the Mayor (purple) and probably several [[drunks]]. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the drunks and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid. Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
Fighting is extremely detailed in adventure mode! This adds a lot of fun in the battle, since there are so many ways to injure your opponents/victims.

=== Ranged ===
If you have a [[weapon | bow]] or [[weapon | crossbow]], you can shoot [[arrow]]s or [[bolt]]s at enemies. You can also throw anything you can carry at enemies. Ranged attacks are highly efficient when you hit.
To fire your bow or crossbow, press {{key|f}}, and move the marker to the enemy you wish to fire upon, and press {{key|Enter}}. Same with throwing stuff, only press {{key|t}} and choose which item to throw, then choose the victim.
''Note: Throwing is slightly bugged, but in a good and fun way. You can throw captured flies, socks and even [[vomit]] if you want, with lethal effects. (Sand piercing lungs, flies piercing hearts etc..)''

=== Close combat ===
To fight a [[creature]] by hitting it, you just need to walk towards the [[creature]]. Alternatively, you can press {{key|A}} and choose your target. After you've pressed {{key|A}} and are given the list of targets to attack, you can use {{key|Enter}} to choose between a normal attack and [[wrestling]] before selecting which opponent you wish to target.
A normal attack will make the adventurer hit the target with whatever [[weapon]] he holds. If he is holding no [[weapon]], he will bash with his [[Armor# Shields and Bucklers|shield]]. If he has neither a weapon nor a [[Armor# Shields and Bucklers|shield]], he will either punch his target or grab a random appendage.
In [[wrestling]], you must spend a few rounds locking the target's limbs to be able to break and splinter them (good times). Alternately, you could try gouging, pinching, or strangling them instead.

=== Wounds ===
Your adventurer will get wounded by enemies or falling (jumping) off cliffs. The best (and only?) way to heal, is to press {{key|T}}, and travel at least 1 tile in any direction. Your adventurer will be fully healed then, unless your character has wounds to the neck or head. Read more about wounds [[Wound|HERE]].

== Tips for survival ==
Dying is easy in adventurer mode, especially if you've just started out. Following these simple tips will increase your chance to survive, and reach those nice stats and legendary [[skills]]! These tips are for the faint of heart only. If you like the challenges of the game, feel free to do the opposite of what these tips say.

=== Basic Needs ===
Your adventurer gets hungry, thirsty, and drowsy, make sure your [[waterskin]] is always filled(fresh [[water]] at the [[Temple|temples]]), you carry 1-2 stacks[5] of [[food]], and get some sleep sooner or later.

Fresh [[water]] can be found sometimes at [[Temple|temples]] and always in [[River|rivers]]. [[Water]] from [[Murky pool|pools]] is not considered fresh [[water]].

In order to obtain [[water]], you need a [[waterskin]]. Unless you are an [[elf]], you will start with a full one at the beginning of the game, but you can also buy additional ones in the [[Site|towns]].

Move right next to the [[water]] source and press {{k|I}} (capital 'i', that is) to interact in a complex manner with an item. You will be shown your [[inventory]]. Select your [[waterskin]] by pressing the letter shown to its left. If the [[inventory]] is so long that the [[waterskin]] is not shown, you may need to press {{k|/}} or {{k|*}} on the number pad to move through the pages. If you have done everything correctly, the game should offer you one or more options from which specific tile you wish to draw the [[water]]. Simply select one choice by pressing the letter to its left and the remaining free space in the [[waterskin]] will be filled with [[water]].

Note that you can not refill [[Waterskin|waterskins]] that are inside of [[Backpack|backpacks]]. You need to {{k|r}}emove it from the [[backpack]] first. Also note that you can't put [[Waterskin|waterskins]] you are holding directly into the [[backpack]] (it is not accepted as a container for that purpose). First, {{k|d}}rop the [[waterskin]] and then {{k|g}}et it again. It should be put inside the [[backpack]] automatically.

Solid food will eventually rot away. However, if you move on the travel map, you will not consume any food or water. Only if you stay on a [[Site map]] for a longer time will you first feel thirst and later hunger. A normal random [[encounter]] usually never last long enough to even generate thirst. Searching a [[quest]] [[cave]] can take longer (they are quite winding), but usually, you will not go beyond thirst if you only want to find the [[quest]] monster and kill it. Thus, carrying large stocks of food is not recommended, unless you plan something that will take a lot of time.

(''Warning:'' NEVER, EVER sleep in a hostile place, next thing you know you will be cloven asunder by your own sword, or some nasty critters will be feasting upon you)

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some members to your party, you will not only gain extra damage output. You will also have someone else to take the damage instead of YOU!
When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks! They are found in human towns inside the tavern with the Mayor (The building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill wrestling and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

=== Avoid the impossible ===
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

==== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ====
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although i eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And i was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them i threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) i grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

==== Arrows ====
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

=== Training yourself ===
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with pebbles, pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

''Alternate way'' : It could be difficult to repeat the {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} sequence without making mistake. So you can just alternate {{k|t}}-{{k|enter}} quickly : The first {{k|t}} will open the inventory, the second will chose the rock which is in "t" position, and {{k|enter}} will throw it. In the same fashion, when collecting rock, prefer a tile where the rock is on "b" position : If you quickly alternate {{k|g}} and {{k|a}}, sometime you will open the [a]nnouncement panel, wich will slow you down.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable- train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferrably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alike.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

Alternatively, wait until nightfall, and wrestle a sleeping enemy. Sleeping enemies are unconscious, and cannot fight back. The autocombat will cause your adventurer to break limbs, grab and release bits of clothing, and other nonlethal attacks. Occasionally random chance will cause a chokehold; simply step back a tile and then resume. In this manner, you can train wrestling extremely quickly without the dangers of wandering in an undead zone.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below.

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

==== Armor and Shield Use ====

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor- a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

=== Summary ===
*Recruit some living spear-catchers
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs/sand at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster
[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d Talk:Stone management

2008-07-23T03:08:38Z

Shadow archmagi:

What is considered ''dated'' on this page? Does it still deserve the category/template? --[[User:Markavian|Markavian]]
:I applied the tag because of the information regarding dumping multiple stones into one tile, because it may be regarded as an exploit that could be removed somewhere down the line. I'm not sure if that's the right way to use that template. If not, just kill it. -- [[User:EighenIndemnis|EighenIndemnis]] 16:32, 5 November 2007 (EST)
::You can expand the stonedumping trick to all sorts of other things. If you just mark every ore you dig up as "dump," and have your dump near where your metal industry is to be formed, then you can just undesignate all the ore at once and have a huge pile of raw materials RIGHT THERE for your smelters. [[User:Kefkakrazy|Kefkakrazy]] 17:27, 5 November 2007 (EST)
:::Even better miasma will not travel along diagonals. so you can put a hole in the roof just above one of the tiles past the corner of your craftdwarfs shop and choose dwarves chasm bones, skulls, shells, and all. Then set your fisherdwarves loose. Your dwarves will collect all that rotting fish, and dump it all down that hole where it will rot into bones and shells. Then unforbid it and make tons of crafts from the bones and shells. --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 21:37, 15 November 2007 (EST)

== what happened here? ==

Something went wrong somewhere... I'm sorry, I don't know how i managed to screw up this page... :(

I'll leave it alone now...
-Uberubert
:Don't worry, wikis are built to be reverted to older copies when needed. [[User:Vanan|Vanan]] 12:01, 15 November 2007 (EST)
:Avoid using the <nowiki><pre> </pre></nowiki> tags when possible. This causes editing of sections to look correct in previews, but to screw up horribly when saved. If you want to do fixed-width formatting, prefix lines with a space " ". [[User:Julius|Julius]] 18:27, 15 November 2007 (EST)

== Bookkeeper skill and dumping ==
Does it require a certain bookkeeper skill to dump from the status screen? -Noctune9

:It seems like "per item" stocks screen commands require that you have enough precision to prevent quantity rounding for that item class (stones). So if your bookkeeper hasn't done enough work, or your bookkeeper's precision setting isn't high enough, you probably can't browse a list of every stone in your fortress, which means you can't dump 'em. Is that consistent with your situation? --[[User:Marble Dice|Marble Dice]] 12:55, 19 March 2008 (EDT)

== Minor Edit ==
I changed the "not really necessary" section to reflect that scheduling a rock for a task will make it immovable and block construction, whereas an ignored rock will simply be shoved aside. As such, the only bad rock is a rock the player has a grudge against.--[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 23:08, 22 July 2008 (EDT)

40d:Stone management

2008-07-23T03:06:21Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Not '''Actually''' Necessary */

[[Mine]] for long enough and you'll find yourself surrounded with various [[stone]]s and [[ore]]s. How do you get rid of them?

Here follows several '''stone management''' techniques.

== Techniques ==

=== Dump ===
This method is easy and useful. However, it could easily be considered an exploit, and might not work in later versions.{{version|0.27.176.38c}}

# Make a [[zone]] of 1x1 or 1x2 tiles, preferably either near the stones you want to get rid of or your stone-needy [[workshop]]s, and mark it as a garbage dump.
# Press {{k|k}} and find a stone. Press {{k|d}}, and the stone will be marked for dumping. Alternatively, use the stocks menu (faster for mass dumping, but requires some [[bookkeeper]] labor first). You can also use {{k|d}},{{k|b}},{{k|d}} to designate mass items for dumping. You could also use a [[Macros_and_Keymaps#Designation_Dump|dumping macro]] to designate large amounts of stones at once. However, macros do not discriminate between stones and other items, so it is best to use them right after you dig out a new area. Be careful when you mark areas containing cave spider silk for dumping, as dwarves will actually come along and ''destroy'' the webs!
# A dwarf with refuse-hauling will come by, and take the stone to the garbage dump.

* '''Advantage''': No matter how many stones you mark for dumping, they will all be placed on the same tiny garbage tile. So basically, mark all the stones you want dumped and they will be dumped. You are now able to place '''all''' the stones and ores in the fortress on 1 tile.
* '''Disadvantage''':
** Every dumped stone will be marked as "[[Forbidden]]", and will not be used in stone-production. Use the designation 'Reclaim Items' ({{k|d}}-{{k|c}}) to reclaim the entire pile. ''(If you want to only use specific stones, you must press {{k|k}}, find the pile, and press {{k|f}} on every stone you want on the list, using {{k|+}}/{{k|-}} to navigate through the list. [[Macros_and_Keymaps|Macros]] may come in handy when employing this method.)''
** Anything else you dump, will end up on those piles too.
** Take care not to lose overview if you use several or temporary dumps.

=== Magma melting ===

If you wish to get rid of the stone permanently, create a magma channel through your fort and mark the edge as a garbage pit. Any stone disposed of will be chucked into the magma, melt, and be gone from your fortress forever. Of course, the disadvantage is that for anything else you mark as garbage will also be lost forever.

=== Chasm dump ===
If the dwarves are instructed to dump the stone into a garbage zone over bottomless lava or chasm, that stone will fall off the bottom of the map and journey to the center of the Earth.

=== Catapult ===

Build a [[catapult]] (or three), and assign a dwarf (or five) to keep firing stones into walls, or at [[camel]]s. This destroys the stone and also trains dwarves in [[Siege operator|siege operating]].

=== Rock chute ===

You can dig a [[channel]], and make a [[zone]] over an adjacent tile. Mark it as a garbage dump, and dwarves will dump stones flagged for dumping down the channel. The stones will end up in the bottom tile.

=== Rock crusher ===

Similar to the rock chute, but build a [[drawbridge]] in the pit and a [[pressure plate]] at the entrance to the chute, linked to the bridge. Make sure you set the pressure plate to trigger on citizens. Alternately, just link it to a [[lever]] and pull it every once in a while. Mark the channel and empty tile as a dump zone. When a stone is dropped, the drawbridge will crush the stone, permanently destroying it. Note: make sure the bridge is '''up''' when stones are dumped down it, or it will fling stone back up the channel. To achieve this, you will need to hook up another lever, and pull it once before any dwarves go on the pressure plate.

Level Z:
=====
==.==
== ==
==^==

Level Z-1:
=====
=BBB=
=BBB=
==D==

. - Channel
= - Wall
^ - Pressure plate
B - Drawbridge - make sure to set to raise while constructing, as opposed to retract.
D - Door - keep locked to avoid accidentally crushing dwarves

=== Making use of stone ===

Use your [[mason]]s to the fullest by creating doors, hatch covers, chairs, tables, coffers, cabinets, and statues. This builds up your mason's skill, and the furniture gives your dwarves good [[thoughts]].

Skilled [[Craftdwarf]]s can produce large quantities of rock crafts very quickly. This trades the problem of tons of stone to the much easier problem of tons of crafts. As long as you have bins, managing a stockpile of finished goods is easy. Crafts can be sold to foreign [[trade]]rs, who have plenty of room for a lot of goods.

You can also use stones (or blocks) to build large structures above ground, and floors over areas such as sand, silt, or loam. The [[construction]] interface might be slow, but not only do you use up the stone from your excavations, but you can also create usable indoor space without having to mine any additional stone.

Building [[trap]]s can use up stone as well. [[Mechanism]]s are also made of stone, and a stone-fall trap requires one mechanism and one stone.

=== Avoiding clutter ===
The easiest way to avoid stone clutter is not to produce it in the first place. Use unskilled miners for initial fortress excavation to reduce the amount of useless stone they create, and don't dig out more than necessary. Produce lots of [[barrel]]s and [[bin]]s to cut down on your need for stockpile space.

However, unskilled miners also have a low chance of creating valuable stones and gems when they dig out a tile. It may require some micromanagement to prevent unskilled miners from wasting potentially valuable materials.

Building in [[soil]], rather than stone, avoids the problem of stone altogether. Soil walls and floors cannot be smoothed, which makes it a bad choice for bedrooms and dining halls.

=== Stone Stockpile ===
'''This is not a recommended method due to space and time requirements.'''

Build a large [[stockpile]] for stone away from your fortress. Dwarves will carry stones out to the stockpile, and they will no longer clutter up your fortress. The stockpile needs to be placed somewhere without stones, because only one stone will be placed per tile, and will result in long hauling trips.

=== Block Stockpile ===
Simply have the stone cut into blocks then stockpiled. As long as you have enough bins, this works quite well, since 10 blocks can be stored in a single bin. Depending on the rate you mine out the fortress, you may need several (Or even a dozen) Mason workshops. Just set them up wherever you want the stone cleared, and have them removed when they are no longer sitting amidst a pile of stone. This will also train up extra masons, which is helpful if you decide to make any large scale constructions.

A word of warning: The maximum number of artifacts your fortress will produce is based on the lowest of two numbers based off of mined out rock, and items produced. If you use this method to mine out a huge area, make sure you're prepared for the artifacts which could skyrocket your wealth very early, leading to [[siege]]s, [[noble]]s, and huge [[immigrant]] waves.

== Reasons for managing stone ==

=== Stockpiles ===
On some stockpiles, you will be unable to use the tiles that contain a stone. It will therefore be a good thing to clear up room for the things you want to stockpile. Alternatively, if the top Z level comprises soil/loam rather than rock, then you can clear it out for stockpiles without worrying about stones filling the new space.

=== Aesthetics ===
Many players find the fortress more enjoyable to look at if it looks nice and uniform. Random stones lying about are clutter which block the view of a tile and prevent stockpiles from being filled. Create smooth clear floor for a leaner, fitter, happier fortress.

=== Not '''Actually''' Necessary ===
You do not need to remove stones at all, and doing so may block a building site (since builders will normally just move aside spare rocks, but not rocks needed for important tasks such as being hurled into the magma pit or made into bricks). Clearing out the fortress for stone is more of a personal priority rather than an essential need or requirement. Remember that there is no such thing as '''excess''' stone to a dwarf.

[[Category:Guides]]

{{Mining FAQ}}

40d Talk:Cook

2008-03-15T14:02:22Z

Shadow archmagi:

If you want your dwarves to gain skill as cooks you should only prepare easy meals, since this gives them the most practice per ingredient used.

Is this still true? I find I level far faster with lavish meals. --[[User:Shades|Shades]] 14:41, 20 November 2007 (EST)

It says that cooked meals are "not subject to wear", but also that meals left in the kitchen "may rot". Which is correct? -- ToxicFrog

:wear and rot are different things. wear is the x and X's next to it, where its still edible. rot happens instantly, spews miasma everywhere, and the meal is instantly inedible. -[[User:Chariot|Chariot]] 04:22, 15 March 2008 (EDT)
::Although i doubt that prep meals can either wear or rot, unless outside or in water. Maybe they rot in the kitchen but not on a stockpile? --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 09:46, 15 March 2008 (EDT)
::: Correct. Meals left in a kitchen will rot. Meals dropped on ground magically marked as "Food stockpile" will be preserved for eternity.--[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 10:02, 15 March 2008 (EDT)

40d Talk:Cook

2008-03-15T14:02:14Z

Shadow archmagi:

40d Talk:Adventurer mode

2008-03-07T10:50:39Z

Shadow archmagi:

40d Talk:Ambush

2008-03-01T13:15:02Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death */

Yesterday, I had an ambush. My woodcutter was ambushed by a group of one goblin bowman and five swordsmen. They were invisible, until attacked him. I had never seen anything like this until 38a. Think, it's something new, should we add the article? What do you think?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:23, 6 February 2008 (EST)

: yes definitely. I have been ambushed 3 times already in one year. These attacks seem to coincide with trading caravans. --[[User:Kingzilla|Kingzilla]] 23:28, 6 February 2008 (EST)
::Is this really new? I started with 38a, but from reading i never expected anything else than thieves and ambushes with every caravan.--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

==Ambush messages==
In my experience with last version (38a) it showed 'Ambush, curse them' on kobold thieves, and 'Amush!' on beforementioned goblins. This surely needs verification--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 01:10, 7 February 2008 (EST)

:I have: 
:38a 
:Kobold thieves (2): An ambush! curse them!
:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:38c
:Kobold thieves (2): Thief! protect the hoard from skulking filth! (the different message may be caused by increased wealth)

:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:You can read back the whole announcements log (page up key) if you have the patience ;) --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

== Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death ==

Well, in my case he got caged, does that count? The squad of the 5 remaining goblin bowmen, however did not retreat, and continued to advance until torn apart by dogs. Only 1, last(after the other 4 died) goblin started retreating. That was 38a. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 05:07, 1 March 2008 (EST)

:I just had my marksdwarves pump a goblin leader full of timber, and his squadmates just charged. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 08:15, 1 March 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Food

2008-03-01T11:20:37Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Hunger bug */

== Starvation ==

Once my [[butcher]] starts ''hunting for small creatures'' - how do I get him to actually slaughter an animal so everyone can eat?
Or do I need to make someone else a butcher so my butcher can have a snack?

Why does this shite always happen when the merchant turns up?? ;) [[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 07:36, 13 February 2008 (EST)

== Hunger bug ==

First of all, i'm a new user, so if this needs putting somewhere else or whatever, just send me an e-mail or something. Anyway, I have a bug that keeps crippling my fortress. Sometime halfway through the year, my dwarfs (dwarves? i dunno :S) stop eating. completely. they then get hungry, tantrums kick off, and chaos ensues. any tips?
--[[User:Shabang50|Shabang50]] 05:34, 1 March 2008 (EST)

::Do you have food? If so, what KIND of food? They can't eat raw dead things, and they can't even eat butchered dead things. They also can't eat most kinds of uncooked fish. Also, did you make a food stockpile? Food left outside of a food stockpile will mass rot before long. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 06:20, 1 March 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Fish

2008-03-01T02:34:01Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Flopping lungfish */

== Carp Drag dwarves to their doom? ==

I have had Carp drag dwarves to their doom on several occasions, but I was not focusing on it when it happened. Can someone tell me how this happens? The dwarves in question were interrupted during stockpile jobs, which probably means they were carting trash to my refuse pile, which is 5 tiles from the nearest river tile, and yet I find them at the bottom of the river after I get a message that they have bled to death!
Are the Carp somehow chasing dwarves down and dragging them into the river? Is there a new tentacle-carp?
:Old bug which should be fixed in 33c. Carps were getting insanely powerfull by raising their swimming skill. If you start a new game with 33c, it won't happen again. If you are using 33c already, it's probaby a remnant of an old save you've ported from version to version. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 18:52, 28 November 2007 (EST)

attacking occurs in the 8 directions to the side, plus 8 up or down diagonaly and straight up/down(you can see this attacking down stairs in adventure mode) thus, a dwarf on the shore of a river can be attacked by a carp in the river, and with wrestling this can result in the dwarf ending up on top of the carp in the river [[User:Chariot|Chariot]] 18:59, 28 November 2007 (EST)

==Pearl==

It says you can get pearls from mussels and oysters. My dwarves have eaten them (processed and raw) and I've had plenty rot away, but I never got any pearls. Anyone have any info on this? [[User:Bouchart|Bouchart]] 21:33, 28 November 2007 (EST)

== Prepared but not eaten ==

My [[dwarves|darling inhabitants]] are for some reason, [[fishing]] and preparing the fish at their [[fishery]] - but although I have huge stockpiles of raw fish, it never gets prepared at the [[kitchen]] nor eaten.

What am I missing here?
[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 06:15, 31 January 2008 (EST)

:I assume you've checked that the cook option is enabled on the fish in the food menu. So unless you've got a HUGE supply of other foods, I'm not sure why they're not being cooked. Though, to be honest, I've never specifically seen fish cooked as I never make fishing a significant food source for my forts. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 17:59, 31 January 2008 (EST)

::Well, when such a huge portion of my migrants are fishing-inclined the raw fish just accumulates without any effort on my behalf... it's more like I can't make it not happen rather than I made it happen! my dwarves are hunting vermin when they have barrel after barrel of raw fish and a chef saying there is no food to cook when I ask him to prepare meals of any quality. And the fishery with its stockpiles are right next to the kitchen, which is right nearby my fields. :( [[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 04:17, 1 February 2008

:::Are you absolutely sure it's being prepared at the [[fishery]] by the "fish cleaning" job? I ask because you mention "raw fish" is available, which cannot be eaten. Raw fish isn't automatically converted to a usable state. You will have to continually keep setting the fish cleaning job to keep processing the raw fish. Even if you set the fish cleaning job to repeat it will eventually be canceled when there are no more raw fish, and need to be set again at some point. --[[User:Janus|Janus]] 00:16, 1 February 2008 (EST)

::Thanks Janus. For some reason, even though I had a stockpile containing several barrels of raw turtle, '''and''' the job "prepare raw fish" was set to repeat.... nobody was doing it. I cancelled the job and reset it - lo and behold my fish cleaners got to work.
::Now I know that ''raw'' fish does not equal ''uncooked'' fish.
::Still not clear on the distinction between:
::*[[fish cleaner]]
::*[[fish dissector]]
::but I'm continuing to look at it.[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 07:09, 5 February 2008 (EST)
:::Fish cleaners prepare fish for use as food. Fish dissectors extract other things from fish, ruining them for use as food. -[[User:FunnyMan|FunnyMan]] 08:49, 5 February 2008 (EST)

== Flopping lungfish ==

I was recently digging out a new stone storage room from a soft dirt area. I checked back to add the stone storage zone and spotted a lungfish flopping around on the floor. There was no wet stone, no bodies of water nearby, and no misplaced messages. I caught it in a movie, so I may find a place to share it someday.

:I have hoards of lungfish flopping around. They don't seem to be edible, or hostle. I think they're just vermin, like flies and whatnot. I don't think they're even fish. They have LUNGS after all. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 21:34, 29 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Well

2008-02-29T21:02:37Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Using Buckets? */

Where can these be constructed? only near an aquifer?--[[User:Alc|Alc]] 14:16, 30 October 2007 (EDT)

Open space probably refers to just that - a dug-out space below it that leads to water. Will have to test, though. --[[User:Tracker|Tracker]] 15:54, 30 October 2007 (EDT)

Does it need to be a channel all the way down, on all levels below the well, or can you have normal floor below it all the way down to water? Can you put one well directly above another well, and have them both work (if there's water below)? --[[User:Sowelu|Sowelu]] 15:56, 30 October 2007 (EDT)

:You don't need to have channels all the way down. I haven't actually built any, but I don't see why it HAS to go all the way down, I just think there needs to be water there.
::Has it been verified that you need water down there? --[[User:Mitchy|Mitchy]] 11:22, 8 November 2007 (EST)

Does anyone know if it is okay to have a well like this? 
(side view)
<pre>
_W_
| | <-- Empty space between water and well
|~| <-- Water down here
---
</pre>
--[[User:Delton|Delton]] 16:07, 14 November 2007 (EST)

Confirmed that the above is a functional well.
--[[User:Delton|Delton]] 07:52, 19 November 2007 (EST)

== Flooding? ==

Gah! Why do my wells keep flooding? How can I prevent this? [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 06:08, 26 November 2007 (EST)

-- Well ... if you did it like I did [http://www.vaevictus.net/images/bucket_full.png (lol)], you lost to backpressure. i filled from a reservoir that was taller than my well floor. (and it was attached to a brook. :) I'm working on using a floodgate and pressure plate to regulate water levels. [[User:Vaevictus|Vaevictus]] 11:30, 20 December 2007 (EST)

== Fair Warning ==

Whatever you do, don't let a barracks area overlap any of your wells. Military dwarves can and will fall in if they're sparring next to it. Ah well, I didn't want that full set of bismuth bronze armor anyway. -- [[User:Vanst|Vanst]] 08:39, 26 December 2007 (EST)

== Grates and Buckets ==

Buckets don't pass through grates, in the well construct. That means a well with a grate halfway will become dry. I had 2/7 water above the grate (and 5 levels of 7/7 water under it), but it was not enough. [[User:Wlievens|Wlievens]] 07:24, 23 January 2008 (EST)

== flood? ==

I have a <s>lake</s> murky pool outside(reaching down one more z level). On the same level i want to construct a well inside. can i just build a channel, thus tap the lake on the lower z level and then build a well on top of the end of the channel? or do i need one more level free space? If i can, will the water flood my outpost or will it stop on floor level? would it help if i tapped the lake one more level down? --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 17:12, 8 February 2008 (EST)
:So long as the well is at or above the level of the pond you will have no problem. --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 23:11, 11 February 2008 (EST)
:: It worked fine. Now however the murky pool is dry, so i built a new one tapping the river. ;) --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 13:53, 22 February 2008 (EST)

== Using Buckets? ==
I'm having a hard time getting my dwarfs to use their new well. I...
* Dug a Channel with water beneath it.
* Designated a drinking zone beside it.
** The dwarfs now drink from the channel.
** Loo{{k|k}}ing at the space they're drinking from says Open Space
* Created Blocks, Bucket, Rope
* {{k|b}}uild we{{k|l}}l over the water beside the drinking designation.

Now what happened was I got a massive flood of messages saying something like "XXX Cancelled Drinking: No Bucket at well"

So I went and built another Bucket, and now I have 2 buckets sitting in my finished goods stockpile, and nobody who's willing to drink from the well. How do I instruct the lazy dwarves to go and get the bucket and use it with the well?

[[User:Zeidrich|Zeidrich]] 15:15, 29 February 2008 (EST)

: Why do you need them to use the well? As far as I know, the only time having a well is useful is when the injured need water. Even then, I strongly suspect that people can just drink from the river. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 16:02, 29 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Strange mood

2008-02-29T11:28:49Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Procastinator! */

Does the new version still have the strange mood? It wouldnt be complete without it!

:It still exists, I've had it happen several times now, I went to the archive wiki and copy/pasted the old page.

::Isnt that why the wiki was nuked? To make sure that no old info lingers? Ill put some "verify" in there, I dont think that the bold text is enough for users to understand that some of this may no longer apply. --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 06:03, 6 November 2007 (EST)

:::I agree. Although moods themselves don't seem to have been changed in this version, the changes to the stones/ores that they use means that some of the information in this article is no longer true. I'll have a go at cleaning it up when I have the proper time for it, but this wiki definitely needs a 'no copypasting from the archives' rule to avoid screwups like this. If people are going to copypaste old stuff, then it is downright irresponsible of them not to verify the accuracy of the information before committing it to the wiki. --[[User:Morlark|Morlark]]

I know, I was a huge fan of that little strange aspect of the old one.

I need my dwarfs to make more swordfish bone swords, and i still need some glass weapons/armor

The moods seem to have changed. One of my dwarfs went fey, made a nice hematite mug, and is now a legendary... Engraver. Very wierd, he also had no stoneworking or other craftdwarf skills. But he was a competent mason. This was also my fifth dwarf who took the same craftworkshop, so it's a bit strange. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 17:36, 6 November 2007 (EST)

:Six fey dwarf, all took the craftdwarfshop, now my bowyer took one. Think it might be a bug. Is the 15 artifacts limit still in? --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 14:34, 8 November 2007 (EST)

:: Whohoo my second legendary engraver made a gold mug. My bowyer became a legendary engraver. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 14:40, 8 November 2007 (EST)
::: Scratch all that, one of my woodworkers just used a carpenters shop. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 07:45, 9 November 2007 (EST)

:Have you marked all statements in the article that risks being falsified with <nowiki>{{verify}}</nowiki>? --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 19:41, 6 November 2007 (EST)

Hey, I am getting a dwarf who wants "raw...crystal". Help? -- [[User:Bovinepro|Bovinepro]]
:Probably wants raw crystal glass. I had a dwarf ask for "raw...green", they wanted raw green glass. Looks like Toady might have moved the glass demands out of the "rough...color" category. [[User:Iddq?|Iddq?]]

About the engravers taking over craftdwarf's shops and becoming legendary engravers afterwards is quite true. I recently got a bunch of immigrants, and the engraver that came with them fell into a strange mood before even crossing the bridge on my river. He took over a craftdwarf's workshop and made a basalt scepter, and now he's legendary level in engraving. So yeah, perfect laboratory conditions, he was 100% engraver when he went into his mood and came out a legendary engraver. --[[User:Zhang5|Zhang5]] 17:07, 12 November 2007 (EST)

It seems that no craft skill is required. I just had a peasant go into a strange mood. His skills were: competent marksdwarf; novice wrestler; novice armor wearer. He grabbed a craftsdwarf's workshop and 10 items (3xFelsite, Schorls, Tigereyes, Red Beryls, Giant cave swallow leather, Grizzly Bear Leather, Rough harlequin opals and Ash logs -- guess he has expensive taste?) and churned out an idol in relatively short order. This is my 9th successful mood in this fortress, and I've seen requests for between 3 and 10 items, personally. Since they seem to be increasing in complexity, I've either hit the item cap, or I'm about to break ten :) [[User:Doctorlucky|Doctorlucky]] 16:34, 19 November 2007 (EST)
:This is consistent with older versions. Moody peasants would become crafters, and 10 items was the cap. The minimum was 1 item -- generally when constructing a "perfect gem".--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 16:55, 19 November 2007 (EST)

I had a miner go into a strange mood, take over a mason's workshop, and make a something that got him up to legendary miner status. In my current fort, I have had 6 artifacts made, 2 of which were actual moods and 5 of which were possessions (I can add, one of them failed and the dwarf became a babbling wreck). My dwarves love to use only one item: an oak door (1 item), an olivine coffin (2 items), a turtle shell mask (1 item and is my cheapest artifiact at 3600), a diorite amulet (3 items), and a perfect jelly opal (1 item). --[[User:Penguinofhonor|Penguinofhonor]] 18:47, 28 November 2007 (EST)

Where to add the info that in my game (.33c) a miner took over a mason's workshop, became legendary miner and then held the artifact in his right hand instead of a pick, which became 'hauled', then droped the pick and then took the pick with his left hand? He can mine after all these. While holding a 667 weight units cabinet in his right hand. --[[User:Another|Another]] 10:07, 1 December 2007 (EST)

I had dwarf Miller, profecienty Grower who had Fey Mood, and he became a Legendary Mason ....
Is it normal ? [[user:Feydreva|Feydreva]]

One of my dwarves has become possessed and is demanding cloth, bones and stone, which I have plenty of. But he refuses to go fetch them. Is there something I'm doing wrong?—Preceding [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment added by [[User:Patarak|Patarak]] ([[User talk:Patarak|talk]]•[[Special:Contributions/Patarak|contribs]]) {{{2|}}}
: They want either silk or fiber cloth. Make sure you have both! [[User:Bartavelle|Bartavelle]] 03:40, 21 January 2008 (EST)

I had a Glassmaker that sat around when I had a lot of Magma Glass Furnaces, but then decided to get going when I made a regular Glass Furnace. Seems like they will only use a specific kind. Not sure yet if it's random. Might be they won't take the Magma Glass Furnace in version 38a. Can anyone verify? --[[User:Afbee|Afbee]] 05:07, 21 February 2008 (EST)

: My Glassmaker successfully used Magma Glass Furnace in a fey mood. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 07:54, 24 February 2008 (EST)

==Maximum number of artifacts==
Well, I just got my umpteenth mood, and it resulted in the 16th successfully created artifact.(33b) So that 15 cap thing is clearly wrong. As it happens, this single artifact is worth 754,800, and is an adamantine spear decorated with, among other things, adamantine. For the record, in case this data is important to someone tabulating number of ingredients, my moods in order created the following objects using the corresponding number of ingredients: (Flute, 4; Mechanism, 4; Spear, 3; Millstone, 6; Ring, 8; Chest, 7; Cape, 7; Ring, 9; Statue, 8; Idol, 10; earring, 8; Buckler, 8; Table, 3; Mechanism, 10; Bracelet, 5; and Spear, 8). [[User:Doctorlucky|Doctorlucky]] 04:54, 27 November 2007 (EST)

Do fell/macabre moods still exist? I haven't seen any for quite a few versions. It'd be nice to have that verified.—Preceding [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment added by [[User:Rabek|Rabek]] ([[User talk:Rabek|talk]]•[[Special:Contributions/Rabek|contribs]]) {{{2|}}}

== clarification on "trade" skills ==

Are trade skills all the skills that produce items with some level of quality? Mainly I want to know if dyer is a trade skill. And how does that work with miner? I didn't think miner was a trade skill. Maybe someone who knows more than me could clarify in the wiki.
I just got my first artifact. It's worth 2400. The dwarf took one log and made a scepter. -[[User:Radtse|Radtse]]

:I don't know exactly, we should make a list of the skills we know are not trade skills. I'll start: my brewer/grower once got a strange mood and made a wood item and gained woodcrafting skill. Let's try to only add to the list when we have experienced a moody dwarf with that skill only.--[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 19:36, 27 December 2007 (EST)

::I'm adding Weaver and Furnace Operator to this list, since they're on the wiki. I haven't seen them myself, but I'm assuming someone else has. Knowing that Furnace Operator is a "fey-able" skill will be quite helpful.-[[User:Radtse|Radtse]] 18:28, 29 December 2007 (EST)

:::Where's cooking fit in? --[[User:KittenyKat|KittenyKat]] 20:09, 6 January 2008 (EST)

List of non-trade skills:

* [[Brewer]]
* [[Grower]]
* [[Miller]]

Skills that may be used and gained by dwarves with no trade skills:

* [[Wood crafter]]
* [[Stone crafter]]

Skills that use a different skill(See list above), but give correct skill:

* [[Miner]]
* [[Engraver]]
* [[Furnace Operator]]
* [[Weaver]]

== mood condition ==
The 20 dwarves / no crazy stuff has been found while looking at the binary of v0.27.169.33d, might be different now, but i don't think so. [[User:Bartavelle|Bartavelle]] 15:08, 2 January 2008 (EST)

== Random Workshop Seizure ==

I just had a gem cutter seize a carpenter's workshop and make a perfect gem; upon completion I had a worthless Legendary dwarf and a new jeweler's workshop, so I guess that's still in from the previous version. I've removed the verify in the article. [[User:Tacroy|Tacroy]] 16:51, 9 January 2008 (EST)

:nonsense. Should be a bigger chance of making ZOMG high-quality gem crafts now ;) --[[User:Frostedfire|Frostedfire]] 07:35, 18 February 2008 (EST)

::More to the point, if you don't like the profession your dwarf has Legendary in...draft for the stats! --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 12:16, 18 February 2008 (EST)

== forbidden items ==

Do moody dwarfs use forbidden items? Will they demand forbid items? [[User:Diabl0658|Diabl0658]] 02:07, 21 February 2008 (EST)

== Impossible Requests? ==
Will dwarves try to use items that you just don't have access to? I had a dwarf asking for silk when I haven't imported any and I'm pretty sure there isn't a giant spider anywhere. Also asking for "rocks" when I have mined at least one of each type of rock that is visible (requiring rocks from unmined areas seem pretty harsh). Also a request for "metal bars" when I have smeltered at least one of each ore I have found and made at least one of each possible alloy. [[User:Yvain|Yvain]] 23:27, 26 February 2008 (EST)

== Procastinator! ==

I just had a moody dwarf demand bones, wood, rocks, and cloth.

He got the rocks okay, and then did nothing for ages. Then, as soon as the fire imp corpse rotted away, he ran down and got the bones, then ran over to my wood stockpile and got a piece of wood...

Do they need to get their ingredients in order now?--[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 06:28, 29 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Strange mood

2008-02-29T11:28:28Z

Shadow archmagi: Procastinator!

40d Talk:Room

2008-02-29T01:03:00Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Names */

"Walls with ore or gems cannot be smoothed, much less detailed." Is this still true? I'd heard that smoothing/engraving of ore veins is now possible. And yet again, I can't test because I'm reading the wiki at work while waiting for a database query to finish... >_> --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 17:28, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

:I deleted the comment about not being able to smooth ore or gems, because you CAN in this version (they all count as different types of rocks). Boo whoever copy pasted the article without looking at it.

::what was the point in aechiving old wiki if people are going to copy and paste, please people if you are going to copy paste thourghly read the article to ensure all info is correct, i didnt read past this so there may be more but rooms are no longer diamonds, this is somehing really obvious and should have been picked up on by whoever copy pasted it otherwise we may as well stick with edditing old wiki. [[User:Thatguyyaknow|Thatguyyaknow]] 20:08, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

Is there a way to check what price a room currently has without counting it yourself? Just wanted to know if I counted right. --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 15:33, 4 November 2007 (EST)

::if the economy has started you might be able to, past that though probably not :( --[[User:Frostedfire|Frostedfire]] 18:17, 8 November 2007 (EST)

My dwarves' thoughts have lately included reference to dining in a "legendary" dining room, but the best one I currently have is listed as "Fine" when I assign it to someone. Does this correspond directly to the value of the room (I intend to bring it up to Royal to find out) or is there something else at work there? [[User:Dolohov|Dolohov]] 10:55, 15 November 2007 (EST)

I have a proper closed bedroom in silty clay loam. There is a masterpiece bed in that room. The price of the bed is 120. The rental cost of the room is 99. Most (all?) other bedrooms also have their rental cost less then the sum of the furniture values. There could be 2 explanations:
1) rental cost is not exactly equal to the room value in this version.
2) the way room value is calculated is substantially different from the previous version.
--[[User:Another|Another]] 11:56, 1 December 2007 (EST)

=== Influences on room quality ===

:''As a bonus, a single chest, cabinet, armor stand, and weapon rack will count as three of each, for every noble in the room. (This works because most nobles have three rooms; if they see a chest in their bedroom, study, and dining room, they ''obviously'' have three chests, right? Nobody accused the nobles of being particularly bright.)

:000173 ▪ (0.22.120.23a) [dwarf mode][nobles] if you have a noble claim the same item with three of their rooms, it'll count three times in their holdings number

Am I reading the changelog right? It looks like this bug was fixed in 23a. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 02:31, 26 November 2007 (EST)

In that same section, it states that the value of a shared room is quartered. I've seen several times on the forum that the value of a shared room is only halved. This should be checked as well. --[[User:Skanky|Skanky]] 03:14, 28 January 2008 (EST)

== Names ==

MANY of the names in the thing are wrong. My epic dining room is described as "Legendary" and the beds that share the room get "Like a personal palace"--[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 17:48, 28 February 2008 (EST)
:Are you going by the {{key|r}}oom list or by dwarf thoughts? The article refers to the actual room grade rather than how impressed dwarves are by the room. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 19:42, 28 February 2008 (EST)
:: Oh dear. My mistake. Letsee... you're right. Bedrooms are Grand and the dining room is Royal. My mistake. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 20:03, 28 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Fire imp

2008-02-29T00:59:30Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Wrestling? */

== Wrestling? ==

I just had a mechanic get attacked by one. He moved into its tile (I assume to wrestle) and instantly died of heat. Should this be noted?--[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 19:59, 28 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Fire imp

2008-02-29T00:59:23Z

Shadow archmagi: New page: == Wrestling? == I just had a mechanic get attacked by one. He moved into its tile (I assume to wrestle) and instantly died of heat. Should this be noted?

== Wrestling? ==

I just had a mechanic get attacked by one. He moved into its tile (I assume to wrestle) and instantly died of heat. Should this be noted?

40d Talk:Armor

2008-02-29T00:25:05Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Natural Selection */

Corrected the matter with low and high boots. If you look at the raws you can see that the armor level of both boot types are the same and thus they can both be used as chain and plate armor. My games have proved this to me. Only real difference between the two boot types is that the high boot is heavier and protects more of the body than just the feet. [[User:Noctis|Noctis]] 05:18, 22 December 2007 (EST)

Does anyone know the rules of where you can wear each piece of armor? For example, can you wear a high boot and leggings? or only low boots with leggings? Do you need to make two boots? --[[User:Mitchy|Mitchy]] 20:30, 9 November 2007 (EST)

: You can wear high boots with leggings. Leggings and high boots have different layers. --[[User:JT|JT]] 17:15, 11 November 2007 (EST)

On a similar note, what's the difference between steel leggings and steel greaves? I would've thought leggings would cover below the knee as well. Do I need both to provide maximum Xtreme protection? [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 15:17, 18 November 2007 (EST)

: As far as I can tell, greaves are the Plate class upgrade to leggings, which are Chain class lower body armor. Unlike upper body armor however, dwarves don't appear to be able to wear both leggings and greaves at once and will drop their leggings in favour of a set of greaves when set to Plate armor. --[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 14:03, 25 November 2007 (EST)

I would like to know if it's possible to find out the various protection values of different types of armor. For example, we know the material and quality modifiers for armor, but not, say, how much better plate mail protects you than chain. Or whether greaves or high boots offer more coverage.
I ask because I'm wondering if, with high quality modifiers, [[adamantine]] ''clothing'' is viable protection for those who aren't wearing armor. Certainly, it'd make a good halfway measure for those who can't do magma smelting yet, but ''can'' get a Craftsdwarf's Workshop, Loom, and Clothesmaker's Workshop set up to extract the threads, weave them, and make clothes. --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 11:48, 13 December 2007 (EST)

==Soldier==

I think some of this article, specifically that stuff in the Using armor section, should be moved over to an article more dedicated to soldier preferences. As it is, it's describing everything about arming civilians with weapons instead of simply talking about armoring civilians; that content seems more appropriate for an article about soldiers or the hunting article. --[[User:JT|JT]] 17:15, 11 November 2007 (EST)

==Verified==

I can verify that whan setting dwarves to chain, they wear gauntlets --[[User:Nog|Nog]] 16:21, 12 November 2007 (EST)

== Table ==

I added a Materials Needed section to the table. Is this OK? --[[User:Nanor|Nanor]] 19 December 2007

:Excellent idea. It looked a little odd in the table, so I moved it to the text instead. --[[User:Turgid Bolk|Turgid Bolk]] 16:47, 19 December 2007 (EST)

:: Much better! Thanks! --[[User:Nanor|Nanor]] 17:50, 19 December 2007 (EST)

== 23.130.23a ==

We had much more info on armor in the [http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Armor old wiki]. Could someone with an account there bring the relevant bits over? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 11:18, 22 December 2007 (EST)

== Leather Armor re: Caps and Helms ==

A soldier set to leather armor can wear leather helms, not just caps, and they'll wear a cap at the same time underneath (at least, if it's silk. I haven't confirmed yet if a soldier will wear a leather cap + a leather helm; doesn't really matter). This is a good thing because helms (according to the old wiki) have higher Block. They're heavier too but this shouldn't be a problem. --[[User:Stromko|Stromko]] 19:57:15 (PST), January 06 2007

:In the old versions, the materials of the armor pieces were irrelevant, regardless of the fact that the lowest armor level is called "leather". Leather and chain wearers would wear any kind of legging or boot, and a plate wearer would wear even a pig tail helm, if they happened to come across one, showing no preference for better material types or quality. Has this changed, or does the table in this article contain some wrong assumptions?--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 02:42, 7 January 2008 (EST)

::I seem to recall that 'light' materials like cloth, shell, and bone effectively 'downgraded' armor by one level, weighed half as much, and were 50% of the maximum effectiveness per their type. However! I can see right now in my current fortress a steel cap is 78 pounds and a cave spider silk cap is 13 pounds. This shows not all old information is correct.

Furthermore, bone and shell doesn't become a 'lighter' class. Shell Gauntlets require Chain or above to be assigned, and Turtle Bone Greaves go un-used until a dwarf is set to Plate.

However, I /can/ confirm from this very fortress I'm looking at right now, that dwarves assigned to leather went to pick up and wear Leather Helms. Unless, that is, they already have metal Caps. I'm looking at a marksdwarf right now assigned to wear Leather who has a Steel Cap, a pig tail hood (they all have hoods), and no helm. Everybody else has a leather helm.

I should note my fortress has no metal helms lying around, nor does it have spare metal caps, so I'm unable to verify that dwarves set to Leather wouldn't wear metal Helms or preferentially choose caps (they'd probably choose /either/ Metal Caps or Leather Helms if given a choice). However, I'm pretty sure they would not. Therefore, it is my understanding that they make a distinction between different material types. --[[User:Stromko|Stromko]] 03:22 (PST), January 07 2007

== Shields and Bucklers ==

Hmm it states here that dwarves can wear BOTH shields and bucklers, however in soldiering screen you can select EITHER shield OR buckler, but NOT both. Does this part of article apply to Adv. mode only? Could someone verify, please? --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 18:21, 24 February 2008 (EST)

== Natural Selection ==

Being a bit of a nooblet, and not having much war in any of my fortresses, I'm confused as to how armor selection works.

Would I be correct if I said "Setting a dwarf to wear Plate armor will cause him to grab plate whenever and wherever possible, but substitute leather, chain, or bone wherever no plate is available. So, for example, if my metalsmiths never make helms, but my leatherworker has caps and helms galore, they'll wear plate armor and a leather helm. Right? If so, this should probably be mentioned. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 19:24, 28 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Armor

2008-02-29T00:24:49Z

Shadow archmagi: Natural Selection

Corrected the matter with low and high boots. If you look at the raws you can see that the armor level of both boot types are the same and thus they can both be used as chain and plate armor. My games have proved this to me. Only real difference between the two boot types is that the high boot is heavier and protects more of the body than just the feet. [[User:Noctis|Noctis]] 05:18, 22 December 2007 (EST)

Does anyone know the rules of where you can wear each piece of armor? For example, can you wear a high boot and leggings? or only low boots with leggings? Do you need to make two boots? --[[User:Mitchy|Mitchy]] 20:30, 9 November 2007 (EST)

: You can wear high boots with leggings. Leggings and high boots have different layers. --[[User:JT|JT]] 17:15, 11 November 2007 (EST)

On a similar note, what's the difference between steel leggings and steel greaves? I would've thought leggings would cover below the knee as well. Do I need both to provide maximum Xtreme protection? [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 15:17, 18 November 2007 (EST)

: As far as I can tell, greaves are the Plate class upgrade to leggings, which are Chain class lower body armor. Unlike upper body armor however, dwarves don't appear to be able to wear both leggings and greaves at once and will drop their leggings in favour of a set of greaves when set to Plate armor. --[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 14:03, 25 November 2007 (EST)

I would like to know if it's possible to find out the various protection values of different types of armor. For example, we know the material and quality modifiers for armor, but not, say, how much better plate mail protects you than chain. Or whether greaves or high boots offer more coverage.
I ask because I'm wondering if, with high quality modifiers, [[adamantine]] ''clothing'' is viable protection for those who aren't wearing armor. Certainly, it'd make a good halfway measure for those who can't do magma smelting yet, but ''can'' get a Craftsdwarf's Workshop, Loom, and Clothesmaker's Workshop set up to extract the threads, weave them, and make clothes. --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 11:48, 13 December 2007 (EST)

==Soldier==

I think some of this article, specifically that stuff in the Using armor section, should be moved over to an article more dedicated to soldier preferences. As it is, it's describing everything about arming civilians with weapons instead of simply talking about armoring civilians; that content seems more appropriate for an article about soldiers or the hunting article. --[[User:JT|JT]] 17:15, 11 November 2007 (EST)

==Verified==

I can verify that whan setting dwarves to chain, they wear gauntlets --[[User:Nog|Nog]] 16:21, 12 November 2007 (EST)

== Table ==

I added a Materials Needed section to the table. Is this OK? --[[User:Nanor|Nanor]] 19 December 2007

:Excellent idea. It looked a little odd in the table, so I moved it to the text instead. --[[User:Turgid Bolk|Turgid Bolk]] 16:47, 19 December 2007 (EST)

:: Much better! Thanks! --[[User:Nanor|Nanor]] 17:50, 19 December 2007 (EST)

== 23.130.23a ==

We had much more info on armor in the [http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Armor old wiki]. Could someone with an account there bring the relevant bits over? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 11:18, 22 December 2007 (EST)

== Leather Armor re: Caps and Helms ==

A soldier set to leather armor can wear leather helms, not just caps, and they'll wear a cap at the same time underneath (at least, if it's silk. I haven't confirmed yet if a soldier will wear a leather cap + a leather helm; doesn't really matter). This is a good thing because helms (according to the old wiki) have higher Block. They're heavier too but this shouldn't be a problem. --[[User:Stromko|Stromko]] 19:57:15 (PST), January 06 2007

:In the old versions, the materials of the armor pieces were irrelevant, regardless of the fact that the lowest armor level is called "leather". Leather and chain wearers would wear any kind of legging or boot, and a plate wearer would wear even a pig tail helm, if they happened to come across one, showing no preference for better material types or quality. Has this changed, or does the table in this article contain some wrong assumptions?--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 02:42, 7 January 2008 (EST)

::I seem to recall that 'light' materials like cloth, shell, and bone effectively 'downgraded' armor by one level, weighed half as much, and were 50% of the maximum effectiveness per their type. However! I can see right now in my current fortress a steel cap is 78 pounds and a cave spider silk cap is 13 pounds. This shows not all old information is correct.

Furthermore, bone and shell doesn't become a 'lighter' class. Shell Gauntlets require Chain or above to be assigned, and Turtle Bone Greaves go un-used until a dwarf is set to Plate.

However, I /can/ confirm from this very fortress I'm looking at right now, that dwarves assigned to leather went to pick up and wear Leather Helms. Unless, that is, they already have metal Caps. I'm looking at a marksdwarf right now assigned to wear Leather who has a Steel Cap, a pig tail hood (they all have hoods), and no helm. Everybody else has a leather helm.

I should note my fortress has no metal helms lying around, nor does it have spare metal caps, so I'm unable to verify that dwarves set to Leather wouldn't wear metal Helms or preferentially choose caps (they'd probably choose /either/ Metal Caps or Leather Helms if given a choice). However, I'm pretty sure they would not. Therefore, it is my understanding that they make a distinction between different material types. --[[User:Stromko|Stromko]] 03:22 (PST), January 07 2007

== Shields and Bucklers ==

Hmm it states here that dwarves can wear BOTH shields and bucklers, however in soldiering screen you can select EITHER shield OR buckler, but NOT both. Does this part of article apply to Adv. mode only? Could someone verify, please? --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 18:21, 24 February 2008 (EST)

== Natural Selection ==

Being a bit of a nooblet, and not having much war in any of my fortresses, I'm confused as to how armor selection works.

Would I be correct if I said "Setting a dwarf to wear Plate armor will cause him to grab plate whenever and wherever possible, but substitute leather, chain, or bone wherever no plate is available. So, for example, if my metalsmiths never make helms, but my leatherworker has caps and helms galore, they'll wear plate armor and a leather helm. Right? --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 19:24, 28 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Room

2008-02-28T22:48:40Z

Shadow archmagi:

40d Talk:Room

2008-02-28T22:47:09Z

Shadow archmagi: Names

"Walls with ore or gems cannot be smoothed, much less detailed." Is this still true? I'd heard that smoothing/engraving of ore veins is now possible. And yet again, I can't test because I'm reading the wiki at work while waiting for a database query to finish... >_> --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 17:28, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

:I deleted the comment about not being able to smooth ore or gems, because you CAN in this version (they all count as different types of rocks). Boo whoever copy pasted the article without looking at it.

::what was the point in aechiving old wiki if people are going to copy and paste, please people if you are going to copy paste thourghly read the article to ensure all info is correct, i didnt read past this so there may be more but rooms are no longer diamonds, this is somehing really obvious and should have been picked up on by whoever copy pasted it otherwise we may as well stick with edditing old wiki. [[User:Thatguyyaknow|Thatguyyaknow]] 20:08, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

Is there a way to check what price a room currently has without counting it yourself? Just wanted to know if I counted right. --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 15:33, 4 November 2007 (EST)

::if the economy has started you might be able to, past that though probably not :( --[[User:Frostedfire|Frostedfire]] 18:17, 8 November 2007 (EST)

My dwarves' thoughts have lately included reference to dining in a "legendary" dining room, but the best one I currently have is listed as "Fine" when I assign it to someone. Does this correspond directly to the value of the room (I intend to bring it up to Royal to find out) or is there something else at work there? [[User:Dolohov|Dolohov]] 10:55, 15 November 2007 (EST)

I have a proper closed bedroom in silty clay loam. There is a masterpiece bed in that room. The price of the bed is 120. The rental cost of the room is 99. Most (all?) other bedrooms also have their rental cost less then the sum of the furniture values. There could be 2 explanations:
1) rental cost is not exactly equal to the room value in this version.
2) the way room value is calculated is substantially different from the previous version.
--[[User:Another|Another]] 11:56, 1 December 2007 (EST)

=== Influences on room quality ===

:''As a bonus, a single chest, cabinet, armor stand, and weapon rack will count as three of each, for every noble in the room. (This works because most nobles have three rooms; if they see a chest in their bedroom, study, and dining room, they ''obviously'' have three chests, right? Nobody accused the nobles of being particularly bright.)

:000173 ▪ (0.22.120.23a) [dwarf mode][nobles] if you have a noble claim the same item with three of their rooms, it'll count three times in their holdings number

Am I reading the changelog right? It looks like this bug was fixed in 23a. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 02:31, 26 November 2007 (EST)

In that same section, it states that the value of a shared room is quartered. I've seen several times on the forum that the value of a shared room is only halved. This should be checked as well. --[[User:Skanky|Skanky]] 03:14, 28 January 2008 (EST)

== Names ==

All the names in the thing are wrong. My epic dining room is described as "Legendary" and the beds that share the room get "Like a personal palace"

40d Talk:Clothing

2008-02-28T21:04:10Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Why bother? */

== masterpiece disentigration ==
Does masterpiece clothing disentigration still cause the maker to get all pissy over it?

If so, then it needs to be added to the article. --[[User:Heliopios|Heliopios]] 13:31, 1 December 2007 (EST)

== mass-produce? discard old clothes? ==
I would like to see something on which clothes players should mass-produce to keep their dwarves happy. I'm really not sure myself. [[User:Mindsnap|Mindsnap]] 15:37, 6 December 2007 (EST)
: I second this request. Do dwarves automatically discard old clothes? It seems that my dwarves are buying new clothes at the stores, but then they still wear there old rotting trousers. --[[User:Mitchy|Mitchy]] 11:01, 9 January 2008 (EST)
::In my experience they would discard old socks and boots, but will wear a dosen rotting dresses at once. Maybe some inv slots have limit on the clothes number, and some not? [[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:11, 9 January 2008 (EST)
: I recall a post on the forums that said it's best not to produce clothing at all, and start a dwarven nudist colony. That method is a simple solution that prevents unhappy thoughts from accumulating. I don't think it maximizes happiness, though, as Dwarves get happy thoughts from making satisfying acquisitions. [[User:Non|Non]] 03:50, 5 February 2008 (EST)
:: No good idea. Not having clothes gives an unhappy thought for every separate piece of clothes missing. --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 16:00, 18 February 2008 (EST)
:::not so. dwarves get(used to, removed this version) an unhappy thought for LOSING each piece of clothing, but once its gone(or if they started with none) there is no unhappy thought. they are perfectly fine and happy being naked, once the sadness of rotting clothes wears off --[[User:Chariot|Chariot]] 18:30, 18 February 2008 (EST)
:::: I once had the thought "XY was embarrassed to have no shirt lately". cant swear if he had one before that thought or not, but dont rotting clothes give a different thought "emb. about...clothes rot away"? It still might be that he gets that thought only once. --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 18:56, 18 February 2008 (EST)

== Artifact Cave Spider Silk Thong ==

All right, given that you probably ''are'' going to make exotic underwear with cave spider silk... couldn't it at least be something that the dwarf who made it was going to ''wear'' rather than something which is rare for humans?

Oh well, when my clothier passes over I will have something fantastic to sell which is also very light I guess![[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 21:47, 2 February 2008 (EST)

== Why bother? ==

Am I missing something? Is there any reason at all to provide new clothes for dwarfs? --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 09:27, 28 February 2008 (EST)
:You mean other than the fact that if old clothes start to rot the dwarf wearing said clothing gets an unhappy thought? I highly doubt that's been removed since the last version I was semi-familiar with. --[[User:BDR|BDR]] 13:52, 28 February 2008 (EST)
:: Ah. Well, I built a HUGE dining room. Its taken two years to fully smooth it, but now any dwarf who eats instantly becomes either ecstatic, happy, or, if they're whole family was killed and they had to sleep on the ground by the rotting corpses, they might just be content. Wow, writing that once again reminded me how totally R rated this game would be if it were 3d. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 16:04, 28 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Clothing

2008-02-28T21:02:40Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Why bother? */

40d Talk:Channel

2008-02-28T16:41:43Z

Shadow archmagi: /* == Poor Swimmers == */

==Empty channels as moats==
Can land-bound enemies cross empty channels? Or would an empty channel dug around your entire fort suffice to prevent intruders? [[User:Julius|Julius]] 19:53, 13 November 2007 (EST)
:Probably not... I'm assuming they'd just fall down a z-level, just like your dwarves do.--[[User:Tarsier|Tarsier]] 20:07, 13 November 2007 (EST)
:A channel with a constructed wall on the inner side is an ultimate defence against every non-flying creature. Without the wall enemy archers/crossbowmen can deal some damage.--[[User:Another|Another]] 07:10, 22 November 2007 (EST)
:: to my best knowledge no land-bound creature 1) can enter empty channels except via a stair 2) can fall down ''finished'' empty channels 3) can get out of an empty channel except via a stair (haven't tested flooding-swimming-climbing out). So, yes an empty channel is a fine defense. --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 12:48, 21 February 2008 (EST)

==Falling==
Can digging a channel, that has a solid floor below it, under a dwarf, that would result in the dwarf falling in, cause death or make the dwarf unable to operate?
:Don't see why not, the dwarf is falling so could get hurt (although death would be unlikely) and it's also possible any stone generated from the fall could land after, but I have no idea how that is worked out so that might not be true. --[[User:Shades|Shades]] 07:27, 22 November 2007 (EST)
::Happened to me more than once. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 07:55, 22 November 2007 (EST)
:::What has happened more than once? Falling? Ya, I just asked because it is good to know and I have a big project involving digging through many levels of rock and channels are the most efficient way to do it. --[[User:Nerd10101|Nerd10101]] 01:04, 23 November 2007 (EST)
::::If you dig from the top to the bottom and plan everything out, you should not have a problem. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 01:10, 23 November 2007 (EST)
:A one-layer fall has never caused serious damage on my fort. -- [[User:Zaratustra|Zaratustra]] 01:30, 23 November 2007 (EST)
::A dwarf that drops one z-level is not damaged, just temporarialy stunned. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMario]] 02:35, 23 November 2007 (EST)
:::I got dwarves suffer very serious injuries from falling one Z in a chasm to the second level while fighting, though. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 22:32, 23 November 2007 (EST)
::::Is it possible for a dwarf to get out of a channel if they fall in? - [[User:Znex|Znex]] 04:47, 1 January 2008 (EST)
:::::Other than creating stairs/ramps, I don't believe so. If they could, then channels/moats wouldn't be very effective in defense. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 04:54, 1 January 2008 (EST)
::::::So...it could never get out? - [[User:Znex|Znex]] 05:23, 1 January 2008 (EST)
:::::::Channels now create a hole to the next Z level down. This mean that the dwarf would need some way to get up, like a stair or ramp. I am not sure if they could just swim to the surface and get up this way if the channel is full of water though. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 05:39, 1 January 2008 (EST)
::::::::Stairs work fine, though. Have another dwarf dig one beside the channel from above and hope the other dwarf doesn't drown before he/she can get to it.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 13:34, 1 January 2008 (EST)
:::::::::Oh, but I haven't made a floodgate or anything yet. It's just the drain pipe. Besides, I already made stairs, but how do you get the dwarf to go up them? - [[User:Znex|Znex]] 17:05, 1 January 2008 (EST)
::::::::::Wait, never mind. I set a mining thing alongside the channel and the dwarf(since he was a miner) got out and started making it. Which would probably mean that the dwarf wasn't really down the channel at all, but rather on a piece of channel that hadn't been made yet. - [[User:Znex|Znex]] 17:10, 1 January 2008 (EST)

==Andesite==

This rock seems to block all of my buildings, doors and workshops especially. Have I just never noticed rock blocking things before now?
:An object wont block construction unless it is tasked for something already. Tasked means there is a job in the job queue that wants to do something with that particular object, so dwarves are not allowed to interact with it unless they are doing it for that particular job. Large stone stockpiles will leave a lot of rocks tasked (because stone hauling is slow), preventing dwarves from moving them out of the way to place doors and buildings. In the [[stone management]] article there are methods of dealing with the large amounts of stone your miners produce. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 11:20, 23 November 2007 (EST)

== true to the task or just stone dumb? ==
One of my little fellas in all honesty tried to wade through a filled channel, to stockpile a leftover shale. Okay, there was a stair going down to the channel level, and there was one going up on the other end near the pile and it ''was'' by far the shortest way. The best thing is, after a few tiles he decided to get scared and announced "cancel. dangerous terrain". Not that that made him get out of the channel! I then drafted him to get him out..now i wonder, would the goblins take the same route into my fortress? ;) --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 20:29, 21 February 2008 (EST)

== == Poor Swimmers == ==

Is there a benefit to filling moats with water? Unfilled moats apparently provide an unbeatable defense. However, if enemies charged into filled moats or something, that could definately provide a quick way to end sieges. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 11:41, 28 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Channel

2008-02-28T16:38:04Z

Shadow archmagi: == Poor Swimmers ==

40d:Alcohol

2008-02-28T16:05:19Z

Shadow archmagi:

'''Alcohol''' is one of the staples of the dwarven diet; it quenches their [[thirst]] and gives them positive [[thoughts]]. Healthy dwarves will drink alcohol exclusively when available. When dwarves are forced to drink [[water]], they begin to work slowly from alcohol dependency. Alcohol can be brewed at a [[still]], brought with you from the embark screen or [[trade]]d with visiting caravans.

'''Brewing''' 
To brew alcohol at a [[still]] requires a brewable [[plant]] and an empty [[barrel]]. Every unit of plant produces 5 units of alcohol. Brewing enough alcohol for even a medium-sized population requires a lot of barrels; be sure to keep plenty near to hand.

A single ''stack'' of plants will be brewed in one go, and the resulting booze will be placed into a single barrel - a stack of ''Plump Helmet [5]'' will produce ''Dwarven Wine [25]'', and will only occupy a single barrel. Skilled [[grower]]s, who tend to harvest larger stacks, can therefore reduce the number of barrels required to store alcohol, which in turn minimizes the required stockpile size. Brewing (unlike cooking) also yields plantable seeds.

'''Consumption''' 
A healthy adult dwarf consumes approximately 18 units of drink per year. Each drink consists of the dwarf walking to a free barrel (one not already being drunk from), upending it over his alcohol-intake orifice (mugs are for simpering humans), and liquoring up. Because dwarves tipple so frequently, the main liquor stash is often the second-most heavily populated area of the fort (right after the main [[meeting|meeting area]]) and dwarfs spend much time walking to and from it. So: The booze should be both secure and accessible.

'''Cooking''' 
Since a single brewable item will produce five units of alcohol, and each unit of alcohol can be cooked directly into food, it is advisable to brew any plants you intend to cook. In this manner, you may produce five times the food you would from simply growing and then cooking your crops. Be wary though, as you need to ensure enough remains behind for drinking.

'''Happiness''' 
Dwarves get happy thoughts from drinking. The intensity of this buzz depends on the [[quality]] of the drink and whether it matches the dwarf's personal [[preferences]]. The quality of a drink is a hidden value (with no effect on price) which improves with the skill of the [[brewer]]. It is unknown whether high-value liquors (like [[sunshine]]) boost feelings more than low-value ones (like [[gutter cruor]]){{verify}}. We do know that dwarves prefer to drink them.

'''Wounded dwarves''' 
Wounded dwarves will not drink alcohol; they must be given water by a caretaker with a [[bucket]]. Therefore, a fortress cannot survive on alcohol in the absence of drinking water, unless dwarves are abandoned when wounded.

'''Great balls of fire!''' 
Keep alcohol away from fire. Igniting the stuff will cause a ball of fire that can easily kill or injure your dwarves. At this time very little research has been done regarding alcohol bombs. For an example see [http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-42-boozeexplosion]

==Brewable Plants==

===Grown Inside===
{|border=1 width="50%"
|-
! width="40%"|Ingredient
! width="50%"|Beverage Produced
! width="10%" align="center"|Beverage Value
|-
| [[Pig tail]]
| Dwarven Ale
| 2
|-
| [[Cave wheat]]
| Dwarven Beer
| 2
|-
| [[Sweet pod]]
| Dwarven Rum
| 2
|-
| [[Plump helmet]]
| Dwarven Wine
| 2
|}

===Grown Outside===
{|border=1 width="50%"
|-
! width="40%"|Ingredient
! width="50%"|Beverage Produced
! width="10%"|Beverage Value
|-
| [[Whip vine]]
| Whip Wine
| 3
|-
| [[Sun berry]]
| Sunshine
| 5
|-
| [[Sliver barb]]
| Gutter Cruor
| 1
|-
| [[Rope reed]]
| River Spirits
| 2
|-
| [[Fisher berry]]
| Fisher Berry Wine
| 2
|-
| [[Rat weed]]
| Sewer Brew
| 1
|-
| [[Longland grass]]
| Longland Beer
| 2
|-
| [[Wild strawberry]]
| Strawberry Wine
| 2
|-
| [[Prickle berry]]
| Prickle Berry Wine
| 1
|-
| [[Bloated tuber]]
| Tuber Beer
| 2
|-
| [[Muck root]]
| Swamp Whiskey
| 1
|}

==Not Brewable==
Plants that cannot be brewed include:
* [[Quarry bush]]
* [[Dimple cup]]
* [[Blade weed]]
* [[Hide root]]

[[Category:Food]]

40d:Alcohol

2008-02-28T16:04:32Z

Shadow archmagi:

'''Alcohol''' is one of the staples of the dwarven diet; it quenches their [[thirst]] and gives them positive [[thoughts]]. Healthy dwarves will drink alcohol exclusively when available. When dwarves are forced to drink [[water]], they begin to work slowly from alcohol dependency. Alcohol can be brewed at a [[still]], brought with you from the embark screen or [[trade]]d with visiting caravans.

'''Brewing''' 
To brew alcohol at a [[still]] requires a brewable [[plant]] and an empty [[barrel]]. Every unit of plant produces 5 units of alcohol. Brewing enough alcohol for even a medium-sized population requires a lot of barrels; be sure to keep plenty near to hand.

A single ''stack'' of plants will be brewed in one go, and the resulting booze will be placed into a single barrel - a stack of ''Plump Helmet [5]'' will produce ''Dwarven Wine [25]'', and will only occupy a single barrel. Skilled [[grower]]s, who tend to harvest larger stacks, can therefore reduce the number of barrels required to store alcohol, which in turn minimizes the required stockpile size. Brewing (unlike cooking) also yields plantable seeds.

'''Consumption''' 
A healthy adult dwarf consumes approximately 18 units of drink per year. Each drink consists of the dwarf walking to a free barrel (one not already being drunk from), upending it over his alcohol-intake orifice (mugs are for simpering humans), and liquoring up. Because dwarves tipple so frequently, the main liquor stash is often the second-most heavily populated area of the fort (right after the main [[meeting|meeting area]]) and dwarfs spend much time walking to and from it. So: The booze should be both secure and accessible.

'''Cooking''' 
Since a single brewable item will produce five units of alcohol, and each unit of alcohol can be cooked directly into food, it is advisable to brew any plants you intend to cook. In this manner, you may produce five times the food you would from simply growing and then cooking your crops.

'''Happiness''' 
Dwarves get happy thoughts from drinking. The intensity of this buzz depends on the [[quality]] of the drink and whether it matches the dwarf's personal [[preferences]]. The quality of a drink is a hidden value (with no effect on price) which improves with the skill of the [[brewer]]. It is unknown whether high-value liquors (like [[sunshine]]) boost feelings more than low-value ones (like [[gutter cruor]]){{verify}}. We do know that dwarves prefer to drink them.

'''Wounded dwarves''' 
Wounded dwarves will not drink alcohol; they must be given water by a caretaker with a [[bucket]]. Therefore, a fortress cannot survive on alcohol in the absence of drinking water, unless dwarves are abandoned when wounded.

'''Great balls of fire!''' 
Keep alcohol away from fire. Igniting the stuff will cause a ball of fire that can easily kill or injure your dwarves. At this time very little research has been done regarding alcohol bombs. For an example see [http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-42-boozeexplosion]

==Brewable Plants==

===Grown Inside===
{|border=1 width="50%"
|-
! width="40%"|Ingredient
! width="50%"|Beverage Produced
! width="10%" align="center"|Beverage Value
|-
| [[Pig tail]]
| Dwarven Ale
| 2
|-
| [[Cave wheat]]
| Dwarven Beer
| 2
|-
| [[Sweet pod]]
| Dwarven Rum
| 2
|-
| [[Plump helmet]]
| Dwarven Wine
| 2
|}

===Grown Outside===
{|border=1 width="50%"
|-
! width="40%"|Ingredient
! width="50%"|Beverage Produced
! width="10%"|Beverage Value
|-
| [[Whip vine]]
| Whip Wine
| 3
|-
| [[Sun berry]]
| Sunshine
| 5
|-
| [[Sliver barb]]
| Gutter Cruor
| 1
|-
| [[Rope reed]]
| River Spirits
| 2
|-
| [[Fisher berry]]
| Fisher Berry Wine
| 2
|-
| [[Rat weed]]
| Sewer Brew
| 1
|-
| [[Longland grass]]
| Longland Beer
| 2
|-
| [[Wild strawberry]]
| Strawberry Wine
| 2
|-
| [[Prickle berry]]
| Prickle Berry Wine
| 1
|-
| [[Bloated tuber]]
| Tuber Beer
| 2
|-
| [[Muck root]]
| Swamp Whiskey
| 1
|}

==Not Brewable==
Plants that cannot be brewed include:
* [[Quarry bush]]
* [[Dimple cup]]
* [[Blade weed]]
* [[Hide root]]

[[Category:Food]]

40d:Alcohol

2008-02-28T16:04:10Z

Shadow archmagi:

'''Alcohol''' is one of the staples of the dwarven diet; it quenches their [[thirst]] and gives them positive [[thoughts]]. Healthy dwarves will drink alcohol exclusively when available. When dwarves are forced to drink [[water]], they begin to work slowly from alcohol dependency. Alcohol can be brewed at a [[still]], brought with you from the embark screen or [[trade]]d with visiting caravans.

'''Brewing''' 
To brew alcohol at a [[still]] requires a brewable [[plant]] and an empty [[barrel]]. Every unit of plant produces 5 units of alcohol. Brewing enough alcohol for even a medium-sized population requires a lot of barrels; be sure to keep plenty near to hand.

A single ''stack'' of plants will be brewed in one go, and the resulting booze will be placed into a single barrel - a stack of ''Plump Helmet [5]'' will produce ''Dwarven Wine [25]'', and will only occupy a single barrel. Skilled [[grower]]s, who tend to harvest larger stacks, can therefore reduce the number of barrels required to store alcohol, which in turn minimizes the required stockpile size. Brewing (unlike cooking) also yields plantable seeds.

'''Consumption''' 
A healthy adult dwarf consumes approximately 18 units of drink per year. Each drink consists of the dwarf walking to a free barrel (one not already being drunk from), upending it over his alcohol-intake orifice (mugs are for simpering humans), and liquoring up. Because dwarves tipple so frequently, the main liquor stash is often the second-most heavily populated area of the fort (right after the main [[meeting|meeting area]]) and dwarfs spend much time walking to and from it. So: The booze should be both secure and accessible.
'''Cooking''' 
Since a single brewable item will produce five units of alcohol, and each unit of alcohol can be cooked directly into food, it is advisable to brew any plants you intend to cook. In this manner, you may produce five times the food you would from simply growing and then cooking your crops. Mm Mmm Mmm, delicious roast beer.

'''Happiness''' 
Dwarves get happy thoughts from drinking. The intensity of this buzz depends on the [[quality]] of the drink and whether it matches the dwarf's personal [[preferences]]. The quality of a drink is a hidden value (with no effect on price) which improves with the skill of the [[brewer]]. It is unknown whether high-value liquors (like [[sunshine]]) boost feelings more than low-value ones (like [[gutter cruor]]){{verify}}. We do know that dwarves prefer to drink them.

'''Wounded dwarves''' 
Wounded dwarves will not drink alcohol; they must be given water by a caretaker with a [[bucket]]. Therefore, a fortress cannot survive on alcohol in the absence of drinking water, unless dwarves are abandoned when wounded.

'''Great balls of fire!''' 
Keep alcohol away from fire. Igniting the stuff will cause a ball of fire that can easily kill or injure your dwarves. At this time very little research has been done regarding alcohol bombs. For an example see [http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-42-boozeexplosion]

==Brewable Plants==

===Grown Inside===
{|border=1 width="50%"
|-
! width="40%"|Ingredient
! width="50%"|Beverage Produced
! width="10%" align="center"|Beverage Value
|-
| [[Pig tail]]
| Dwarven Ale
| 2
|-
| [[Cave wheat]]
| Dwarven Beer
| 2
|-
| [[Sweet pod]]
| Dwarven Rum
| 2
|-
| [[Plump helmet]]
| Dwarven Wine
| 2
|}

===Grown Outside===
{|border=1 width="50%"
|-
! width="40%"|Ingredient
! width="50%"|Beverage Produced
! width="10%"|Beverage Value
|-
| [[Whip vine]]
| Whip Wine
| 3
|-
| [[Sun berry]]
| Sunshine
| 5
|-
| [[Sliver barb]]
| Gutter Cruor
| 1
|-
| [[Rope reed]]
| River Spirits
| 2
|-
| [[Fisher berry]]
| Fisher Berry Wine
| 2
|-
| [[Rat weed]]
| Sewer Brew
| 1
|-
| [[Longland grass]]
| Longland Beer
| 2
|-
| [[Wild strawberry]]
| Strawberry Wine
| 2
|-
| [[Prickle berry]]
| Prickle Berry Wine
| 1
|-
| [[Bloated tuber]]
| Tuber Beer
| 2
|-
| [[Muck root]]
| Swamp Whiskey
| 1
|}

==Not Brewable==
Plants that cannot be brewed include:
* [[Quarry bush]]
* [[Dimple cup]]
* [[Blade weed]]
* [[Hide root]]

[[Category:Food]]

40d Talk:Clothing

2008-02-28T14:27:19Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Why bother? */

40d Talk:Clothing

2008-02-28T14:26:48Z

Shadow archmagi: Why bother?

40d Talk:Waterskin

2008-02-28T00:47:04Z

Shadow archmagi:

==Civilians==
Is it possible to get civilians to carry waterskins? I think I'm about to wipe out my entire clan due to all the water being frozen, while they were activated to chase down a kobold (who they didn't manage to catch anyway) they all went and picked up waterskins then they put them down when I deactivated them... now they are dying of thirst since the brook and lakes are all frozen... :( [[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 07:04, 10 January 2008 (EST)
:I do not think it is possible. Only military dwarves can carry a waterskin. You should have planned ahead and built yourself a well or made more booze... ;) --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 07:35, 10 January 2008 (EST)
:Really what true Dwarf actually drinks water? [[User:Jikor|Jikor]] 07:52, 10 January 2008 (EST)
::As unbeleivable as it sound, some outposts seem to have problem producing enough booze in the first few years to allow everyone to drink true to dwarven tradition. Where is the world going, I ask you? ;) --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 10:25, 10 January 2008 (EST)

Does quality of the leather/leatherworker affect a waterskin in any way?

40d Talk:Crossbow

2008-02-28T00:43:12Z

Shadow archmagi:

== Training with Crossbows, Wooden/Bone Bolts more than preferred ==

Dwarves will automatically use only wooden or bone bolts, you needn't worry about metal bolts being wasted on practice.

Based on classic DF, bone or wooden bolts will indeed be used to fight if the dwarf doesn't have anything else though, and they sometimes would just coincidentally have a handful of "practice" bolts when they went out to battle thus having a useful backup. Especially nice when they're very highly skilled and 35-45 bolts isn't enough to last the duration of a fight!

== Out of ammo ==

Is it worth noting (on this page) that dwarves will use the hammer skill to bludgeon with their crossbow if they run out of ammo? --[[User:Matryx|Matryx]] 09:22, 5 November 2007 (EST)

:I think it is, if only to warn that if they run out of bolts while they're fighting something, they won't immediately run back to the stockpile to get more. --[[User:Xazak|Xazak]] 09:26, 5 November 2007 (EST)

==Xbow material==
Do someone know if your crossbow hit harder, or do more damage, when it's made of metal rather than wood or bone in the same way a melee weapon would? --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 02:42, 28 November 2007 (EST)
:When it is used in melee - crossbow material is important as all other melee weapons. In ranged only material and quality of the bolt affect it's damage potential. Crossbow's quality level is directly added to the soldier's effective marksdwarf skill increasing his accuracy and rate of fire.--[[User:Another|Another]] 13:11, 9 December 2007 (EST)

== training ===

Does say, hunting with a crossbow increase marksdwarf skill?

40d Talk:Batman

2008-02-28T00:40:29Z

Shadow archmagi: New page: == Reference == I love the last line of this article. I'm wondering if it should stay though... if you don't know what its from, it could lead to a player being terrified of batmen.

== Reference ==

I love the last line of this article. I'm wondering if it should stay though... if you don't know what its from, it could lead to a player being terrified of batmen.

40d Talk:Trading

2008-02-27T18:37:48Z

Shadow archmagi:

This needs wikification with some amounts of rewriting. I will give it a go. --[[User:Maska|Maska]] 06:51, 27 January 2008 (EST)

Yea thanks, this is my first try at a wiki-page. sorry if it was crappy... --[[User:CombatWombat|CombatWombat]] 06:42, 28 January 2008 (EST)

Nah, there's no such thing as a crappy wiki edit, when its got content in it. Just remember to be bold, otherwise there would be nothing here. --[[User:Maska|Maska]] 07:29, 28 January 2008 (EST)

== Extraction from different articles ==

All the information on trading seems quite scattered now (Trade depot, Caravan, Dwarf, Elf, Human etc), and as most stuff is well written I think we should merge the trade sections to this one page and leave behind only refecences. --[[User:Maska|Maska]] 08:29, 27 January 2008 (EST)
:Looking good, is there a 'your first caravan'-type tutorial anywhere we could link to? Something with advice on the sort of goods to prepare and what to buy for the first winter, with new players in mind. I'll try and find one somewhere. --[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 09:07, 27 January 2008 (EST)

: Done, linked to the trade section in the new player guide. --[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 09:11, 27 January 2008 (EST)
::Done++ Someone else finish merging the information from Caravans into the page. Make sure to get that awesome Elf trader image. --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 12:10, 28 January 2008 (EST)

== Haulers? ==
In my experience the "bring item to depot" tasks were performed by any dwarf, even without any hauling labors enabled. Can also be my imagination. I cannot check it for now, so, anyone, please verify.--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:49, 27 January 2008 (EST)
:That's correct, as many times my pure crafters will stop crafting to haul goods to the depot, despite having only one or two production labors enabled. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 03:41, 28 January 2008 (EST)
::Is this similar to plant gathering where even non-working nobles and children will do it, or is it limted to any regular dwarf regardless of labour? --[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 19:04, 31 January 2008 (EST)
:::Yes, nobles and children will haul stuff to the depot. --[[User:Janus|Janus]] 00:19, 1 February 2008 (EST)

== Moving goods on afterwards ==

To get things ''out'' of the depot.... do I have to order them removed while the caravan is still around?
I have starving dwarves... and food going rotten in the depot![[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 06:36, 5 February 2008 (EST)
:AFAIK, no. in my experience, anything bought is treated as like it's just lying there, not being traded.
Well, yes and no. Once trading is finished dwarves will start bringing the bought goods in while the caravan still is there. But you cant 'order' them to per se ;) Your own stuff that wasnt sold however will remain in depot till the caravan leaves. --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 18:45, 13 February 2008 (EST)
::Unless you go back into the {{k|g}}oods menu at the Depot and unmark them for trading. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 04:25, 14 February 2008 (EST)
I've a question in the same vein: I just traded for a truckload of goods, but the traders didn't even leave them in the depot! They just carried my goods out with them. Were my dwarves supposed to carry all of the goods back earlier? --[[User:Gh3yz0r|Gh3yz0r]] 14:08, 16 February 2008 (EST)

==Duplicate Page?==
The page "Caravan" has very similar information, though this "trading" page seems more complete.[Samyotix]

== culling on mandates ==

what's that? in the trade screen? me no be native speaker...--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 21:56, 20 February 2008 (EST)

== "everything is ruined now" ==
I just accidentally tried to trade the elves a wooden bin full of stone goods. Now ALL my stone goods, including ones not actually in that bin, are unacceptable. I ended up just seizing the rope I needed, but I'd like to know if this is a glitch, or if I just made them too angry to trade.

40d Talk:Utilities

2008-02-27T10:50:45Z

Shadow archmagi: /* Water */

== DF File Depot ==
Would be great to get the majority of these uploaded to the [http://dffd.wimbli.com/ Dwarf Fortress File Depot (DFFD)]. I'm having trouble with some of the currently linked hosting sites. I've just gotten Regional Prospector, so I'll see about getting that one up. Thanks guys! --[[User:SlMagnvox|SlMagnvox]] 14:33, 25 February 2008 (EST)

== External Utilities ==
I thinking any Utilities that not made specifically for Dwarf fortress should put together at bottom which I have done. My question should we mark area with header say External utilities? [[User:Omagaalpha|Omagaalpha]] 08:22, 14 February 2008 (EST)

== AutoHotKey ==

Should autohotkey be added as a utility tool for dwarf fortress? I know a few forum users have used it to do repetitive tasks like room designations, maybe it could have its own page and a few dwarf fortress specific script?--[[User:Thehunterunseen|Thehunterunseen]] 20:43, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

:Ive been looking for a macro program that works within dwarf fortress and thats free. Havent found a good program thats the combination of both. What do you use? --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 20:51, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

::autohotkey [http://www.autohotkey.com/] is a program like that --[[User:Thehunterunseen|Thehunterunseen]] 21:13, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

:::That was the program I used. Wierd. For me, when I inputed "6" for moving one step right... it moved like 8 steps right or something. Couldnt figure out why. Any ideas? --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 22:57, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

::::I know that {{k|shift}} + {{k|→}} = 10×{{k|→}}. Could that have something to do with it? --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 23:17, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

:::::I use "Send {LeftArrow}{Enter}{Enter}", as a test to simply have the wall/floor im building to be placed one step to the right instead of where the cursor actually is. As previously said, however, it didnt work. --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 07:05, 1 November 2007 (EDT)

::::::That might be because the {LeftArrow} part isn't right. It's supposed to be just {Left}. I've downloaded the program myself and am not having any issues with it in DF.. I'm running XP, and use it in fullscreen mode, if that helps any. --[[User:Hesitris|Hesitris]] 18:53, 12 November 2007 (EST)

: So could some people who actually know some autohotkey scripts make an article and submit some? --[[User:Thehunterunseen|Thehunterunseen]] 13:37, 6 November 2007 (EST)

::I use it and more or less know how it works but as soon as I use it inside DF it bugs out completely and I have no idea why. --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 17:56, 6 November 2007 (EST)

:::I have a number of scripts that I use, but they randomly bug out for no apparent reason. They will work fine in notepad (ie, output everything exactly as I expect), but be only partially executing and then failing in DF. Again, sometimes they work fine. I could post them and how they work if someone wants. FYI, I am on Vista and that may be an issue. --[[User:Geofferic|Geofferic]] 02:39, 19 November 2007 (EST)

::::I'm not sure how CPU cycles and the buffer interact in Vista. Is your FPS low? Perhaps a key is dropping out of the buffer but DF isn't recognizing it due to lag? Or lag might be making the buffer overflow. It might depend on how autohotkey sends keystrokes, I don't know if it simulates a key press or directly input ssomething into the buffer. You could try a small sleep(50), or the equivalent, in autohotkey and see if that helps. Also, make sure it isn't losing focus for some reason due to background programs (although that would be strange) -Gotthard

:::::I think it's a lag issue in DF. I've yet to figure out exactly what is causing lag for me. I think it's pathing with too many dwarfs and too complex of a hallway system over too many Z levels. Also, I think playing very large maps causes me to lag, as well, but I think that's related to the pathing problem and all those other creatures trying to path. It definitely got better in this version, tho. I will hold off on trying to say definitively what's up with AuthoHotkey until after the next patch. --[[User:Geofferic|Geofferic]] 03:50, 21 November 2007 (EST)

::::::AHK does tend to do wierd stuff in DF, but most of it is predictable. A lot of wierd errors that make no sense can be fixed by explicitely telling the script to focus on the Dwarf Fortress window, as well as generous Sleep statements. I found while rewalling a 30x30 outline, sleep 100 worked fine for the first two sides but posted about half of the second two. Sleep 150 placed the second two somewhat erraticly. Sleep 200 got the second two just fine. --[[User:Knivesu|Knivesu]] 10:22, 23 December 2007 (EST)

== Dwarf Foreman ==

:Foreman is looking at the wrong address for the units... which is not a good sign, since I've seen it in the address it seems to be looking at. I've also seen it bounce around. Definitely not a good sign if the list location isn't static. Or we're just looking at the wrong one completely. --[[User:AzureLightning|AzureLightning]]

It's pretty easy to find the addresses for this for new versions. Running the program in the directory with the new version gives you the check= value, and the others are moderately easy to suss. Also, I don't know exactly how it works or why it works, but from C->D->E start and pos were incremented 0x1000 each version, so laziness dictates trying that in future. [[User:Qalnor|Qalnor]] 16:37, 9 December 2007 (EST)

== Yourfilehost ==

Yourfilehost.com has kind of a lousy reputation, and I can confirm it's blocked on certain college networks. Could someone upload these utilities to a more reputable host? -- Mzbundifund 15:55, 04 November 2007 (EDT)
: Such as? --[[User:Rick|Rick]] 18:03, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:: Megaupload, rapidshare, filefactory, you pick one --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 17:40, 24 February 2008 (EST)
:::Uh, you know there is a special site for uploading DF files now, right? It's linked on the main page. Screw those other guys. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 17:53, 24 February 2008 (EST)
::::I say we scrap this section, then. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 18:28, 24 February 2008 (EST)

==heal.exe==

heal.exe does not regrow missing limbs. However, "heal -hurt" on the command line brings missing limbs to red status, and "heal" thereafter restores the being to full health.

I propose a -regrow parameter so we don't have to do this workaround, since if it's possible to bring missing limbs from dark grey to red status it's also possible to grow them back.

Also, when using the -hurt parameter, it still says "059E7210 had 31 body parts '''healed'''", when it should probably say "wounded". --[[User:JT|JT]] 17:58, 10 November 2007 (EST)

: Hmm, if it does heal missing limbs then I just need to change my logic slightly for healing. --[[User:Rick|Rick]] 19:01, 10 November 2007 (EST)

==reveal.exe==

From what I've tested, reveal for 33a does not work for 33b. --[[User:Sparksol|Sparksol]] 13:39, 17 November 2007 (EST)

:Correct. It uses hardcoded offsets, which will change every time new code is added to DF.
:I have a version hacked for .33b, which I will not distribute out of respect for Rick.
:However, if you are skilled with a hex editor, here's what to do: change the first 5 occurances of the pattern 85 45 01 to the pattern 95 45 01. (The 6th occurance of the pattern is a coincidental match and should not be changed.) Then change the pattern 8C 33 89 00 to the pattern 8C 43 89 00. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 02:31, 19 November 2007 (EST)

:Actually, as it happens, it looks like Rick has produced updated versions of his tools for .33b. They were built on the 16th. However he hasn't linked to them. I don't know why. The URL they're at requests that no links be made to them, so I'm not going to tell you. Sorry, you'll just have to do the hexedit. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 02:45, 19 November 2007 (EST)

:I just havn't mirrored them yet, that's all. --[[User:Rick|Rick]] 03:10, 19 November 2007 (EST)
::Hey, I'm curious why the file sizes ballooned. Reveal went from 52k to 101k, a doubling in size. Heal grew even more. Maybe you didn't strip debugging info? —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 15:42, 19 November 2007 (EST)
:::Usage of std libraries mostly. I made a library for working with DF so I wouldn't have to keep duplicating code through projects, and when writing it I figured I might as well make it more friendly for me to code in, hence usage of std:: stuff. --[[User:Rick|Rick]] 19:00, 19 November 2007 (EST)

:Whenever I try to open reveal.exe, the window will open up for a millisecond and then immedietely close. Is this a problem with the program or my windows? I am assuming its windows since everyone else seems to be able to use it. Has anyone else had this problem?--[[User:Varsashi|Varsashi]] 17:59, 26 November 2007 (EST)

::It hasn't been updated to work with 33c, and doesn't. Hopefully it will be updated soon. If you're using 33b, it should open and close quickly but reveal all allocated squares. To allocate all squares for revealing, I'll repeat the advice I've seen elsewhere: go to the lowest level and designate the entire level for digging, then remove the dig designation and run the reveal utility. --[[User:Janus|Janus]] 20:08, 26 November 2007 (EST)

So how do people feel about deleting this section, and probably the heal.exe section above too? —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 00:56, 23 December 2007 (EST)

==How to use warp.exe?==
How do you use warp.exe? There's no information on how to use these on the page.--[[User:Demosthenes|Demosthenes]] 02:10, 21 November 2007 (EST)
: <code>warp.exe</code> by itself will list your current cursor position. After you have the position you want to warp a creature to, you do <code>warp.exe <x> <y> <z></code> as arguments, and it will warp the selected creature (selected with 'V'iew) to that destination, if it can. --[[User:Rick|Rick]] 18:10, 21 November 2007 (EST)

==StartProfile==
Perhaps, I don't understand how to use this correctly. I'm using 33e, and the StartProfile linked in the Utils section. I'm supposed to use this util at the Prepare for the Journey screen, correct? I tried testing the export function with the first dwarf, with no skills assigned. startprofile.exe -x 0 test.txt What I got back was: 
<code>
Mining: 1348403210 
Wood Cutter: 1565676876 
Carpenter: 3801123 
Engraving: 34079120 
Record Keepe: 2293770 
Liar: 34341293 
Intimidator: 16843009 
Conversationalist: 16843009 
Comedian: 16843009 
Flatterer: 16843009 
Consoler: 16843009 
Pacifier: 16843009 
</code>
When I try to set a dwarf's skills using StartProfile I end up with huge amounts of either negative or positive points available, with no changes being made to the dwarf's skills. --[[User:Stu72|Stu72]] 09:23, 11 December 2007 (EST)
: The offset for the skills must have changed. I guess I should've actually checked that, and not have assumed that just because the other values were correct, the skills were still correct. I'll check it out and post the appropriate fix. -- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]]
: The appropriate fix is redownloading it, when I hex edited the exe I messed it up field. -- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]]
:: Thanks, works beautifully. It's a terrific time saver. --[[User:Stu72|Stu72]] 15:30, 14 December 2007 (EST)

How does one use this? The readme isn't very helpful. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 01:08, 27 November 2007 (EST)
: Not knowing exactly what you're having trouble understanding, I'll give examples (the one thing I forgot to add in the readme). <code>startprofile 0 Miner.txt</code> - This will set the skill profile of the first Dwarf, in the list of units, to the skills in Miner.txt <code>startprofile 1 Jeweler.txt</code> - This will set the skills on the second Dwarf, in the list of units, to the skills in Jeweler.txt <code>startprofile -x 3 Customprofile.txt</code> - This will save the set of skills on the fourth Dwarf to Customprofile.txt <code>startprofile -v0.27.169.33b 0 Miner.txt</code> Same as the first example, except it'll work on the previous version of Dwarf Fortress. -- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 03:28, 27 November 2007 (EST)
::Thanks, I'll try that out. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 21:21, 27 November 2007 (EST)

If you wish to edit the executable, you can modify it so that it works with 0.27.169.33d by making the following changes with a hex editor:
Offset Overwrite With
----------------------------
2A530 | 98 16 25 01 04 00 00 00 DC 00 00 00 F0 08 00 00 70 00 00 00 C0 01 00 00
2A6A6 | 30 2E 32 37 2E 31 36 39 2E 33 33 64
2A77C | 02
-- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 20:14, 3 December 2007 (EST)
:CBW; PUSH SS; AND EAX, 00000401h; ADD AH, BL; ADD [EAX], AL; ...
:That makes no sense. Must be missing something off the head end.
:3 unknown bytes; ADD [EAX+EAX], EAX; ... No better. Worse, even.
:4 unknown bytes; ADD AL, 00h; ADD [EAX], AL; ... Unh uh. Don't think so.
:8 unknown bytes; ESC-4(00); ... Floating point? Really? No way.
:12 unknown bytes; LOCK OR [EAX], AL ... Insane.
:I don't know what those bytes are, but they're not code.—[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 23:23, 3 December 2007 (EST)
::You're right, they're data. First Row is (left to right, 5 dwords): [[User:Jifodus/Memory research#Addresses_3|Start Address]], Offset from address at start address, Dwarf List begin offset, Starting points offset, Skills offset, remaining skill points points. Second row is a character string (15 chars max). Third row is a dword indicating which data index is default.
:: <tt>//Start Addr, O, Lizt, Ponts, Skll, Remain</tt>
:: <tt>{ 0x01251698, 4, 0xDC, 0x8F0, 0x70, 0x1C0 }</tt> - The read/write locations and whatnot
:: <tt>"0.27.169.33d"</tt> - Used for string comparison (-v flag)
:: <tt>2</tt> - The default version to use is the third in the list (what the above just added).
:: Configuration data can be found between 'DATA_SET' and 'TES_ATAD'. The list has enough space for 16 versions (3 are now in use). I'll just say I didn't want to have to recompile it for all the versions -- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 21:52, 6 December 2007 (EST)
If you wish to edit the executable, you can modify it so that it works with 0.27.169.33e by making the following changes with a hex editor:
Offset Overwrite With
----------------------------
2A550 |"98 26 25 01"04 00 00 00 DC 00 00 00 F0 08 00 00 70 00 00 00 C0 01 00 00
2A6B5 | 30 2E 32 37 2E 31 36 39 2E 33 33"65"
2A77C |"03"

== Patching Lavasquare ==

Due to someone being interested in running lavasquare on version 33g, I determined how to patch the exe to work with later versions. With a hex editor, open lavasquare.exe and find and replace with appropriate values (replace the X's with the values underneath for the version you want). I only tested it for 33f, but I'm assuming that the values for 33g are correct (since I got them off the wiki).

(CursorX)
FIND: EE 57 68 88 E2 8F 00 FF 35
REPLACE: EE 57 68 XX XX XX 0X FF 35
33f 88 F2 8F 0
33g 88 62 90 0
38a 88 F2 92 0

(CursorY)
FIND: EC 57 68 8C E2 8F 00 FF 35
REPLACE: EC 57 68 XX XX XX 0X FF 35
33f 8C F2 8F 0
33g 8C 62 90 0
38a 8C F2 92 0

(CursorZ)
FIND: E6 57 68 90 E2 8F 00 FF 35
REPLACE: E6 57 68 XX XX XX 0X FF 35
33f 90 F2 8F 0
33g 90 62 90 0
38a 90 F2 92 0

(MapBlocks)
FIND: FC 57 68 60 15 46 01 FF 35
REPLACE: FC 57 68 XX XX XX 0X FF 35
33f 68 25 46 1
33g 80 96 46 1
38a CC 29 49 1

(To exit immediately after writing, since I don't want to
verify the other offsets)
FIND: FF 35 5C 80 40 00 E8 88 61 00 00 0F BF 7D
F8 57 0F BF 7D FA 57 8B 7D FC 81 C7 60 06
00 00
REPLACE: FF 35 5C 80 40 00 E8 88 61 00 00 6A FF FF
25 6C B1 40 00 CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC
CC CC
-- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 02:05, 25 December 2007 (EST)

To modify the above for the same behavior as water:
FIND: 07 00 20 00
REPLACE: 07 00 00 00
-- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 17:09, 29 December 2007 (EST)

Addresses for 0.27.173.38a:
CursorX 0x0092F288
CursorY 0x0092F28C
CursorZ 0x0092F290
MapBlocks 0x014929CC
Offsets are still the same.
-- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 19:14, 7 February 2008 (EST)

== Lavasquare Popup? ==

How do I remove the prompt? It is a painful thing for large projects. The macro below helps some, though. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 08:05, 4 January 2008 (EST)

#Persistent
SetTimer, CloseLava, 100
return

CloseLava:
WinClose, lcc runtime
return

del::
IfWinActive Dwarf Fortress
{
send {down}
run C:\Program Files\Dwarf Fortress\Utilities\lavasquare 33g.exe
return
}
else
{
send {del}
return
}

== Lavasquare ==

Why does it seemingly stop working after a while? It runs but summons no magma/lava. --[[User:Spelguru|Spelguru]] 12:28, 18 January 2008 (EST)
:No idea, never run into the problem though I've used it quite thoroughly. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 17:52, 18 January 2008 (EST)
:I've run into this once. Restarting DF fixed the problem. --[[User:SquirrelFarmer|SquirrelFarmer]] 09:50, 29 January 2008 (EST)

== Water ==

Could someone make an updated version? Having to slaughter anyone who gets injured just because the rain-filling-ponds doesn't work properly yet is annoying. -Shadow_archamgi, February 27 2008

40d Talk:Utilities

2008-02-27T00:27:48Z

Shadow archmagi: Water