Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

Giant kea

2018-03-01T00:09:10Z

Rriegs: Kea is its own plural

{{Quality|Exceptional|22:04, 1 May 2013 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|lung=2
|heart=1
|intestine=1
|liver=1
|tripe=1
|sweetbread=1
|spleen=1
|kidney=2
|gizzard=1
|feather=1
|brain=1
|skull=1
|fat=11
|skin=hide
|meat=18
|bone=24
|contrib=no}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Giant kea''' are airborne infiltrators more than 200 times the size of normal pesky [[kea]]. They are incredibly dangerous animals, so much that they were the flying [[king of beasts]] for DF2012, contested only by the [[giant mosquito]] as of August 8th, 2012. Their habit of going into your fort and stealing your stuff will mean these monsters will come right into contact with your dwarves and fight. And do not expect a civilian, unarmored dwarf to win any of these fights. Giant kea will kill your dwarves faster than you can say, "It's just a big parrot, what harm could it do?"

This animal is capable of stealing artifacts.[http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m6x9ohAAb41r1ahsco1_1280.png] Additionally, they come in groups of 5-10. As such, they can quickly become your fort's top concern. They tend to fly away when targeted, but that won't stop them from returning to steal again later.

Overall, these things can be a huge threat to a fortress.

When [[butcher]]ed they leave behind useless [[feather]]s. Some dwarves [[preference|admire]] giant kea for their ''curiosity'' and ''intelligence''.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Kea

2018-03-01T00:08:08Z

Rriegs: Kea is its own plural

{{Quality|Exceptional|22:03, 1 May 2013 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|skull=1
|contrib=no
|meat=0-2
|wiki=yes}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Kea''' are flying [[Creature|pests]] that like to [[Thief|steal]] [[Steals food|valuable]] [[Steals items|items]]. They are attracted to things like [[cloth]], [[gem]]s, metal [[bar]]s, stacks of [[crossbow]] [[bolt]]s, and even [[wheelbarrow]]s or [[anvil]]s. They may even steal [[Creature#Aquatic|fish]] from a [[barrel]] after interrupting the [[dwarf]] hauling it. They are similar to a [[raccoon]] or [[rhesus macaque]], but smaller and winged; the fact that they are winged and capable of flight makes them extremely annoying if they find a way into any unoccupied areas of your fortress.

Kea are skittish around other creatures, so [[pasture]]d livestock are generally enough to send them winging away empty-clawed. Unfortunately, the livestock appear to be equally scared of the pilfering pests, so your dwarves will spend considerable time herding them back into their pastures when a kea flock appears.

Kea are too small to be [[butcher]]ed, but may be a source of [[egg]]s if [[Cage|captured]] and [[Animal trainer|trained]]. They can and will draw [[blood]] on dwarves and small pets, like [[cat]]s. A [[Wagon (embark)|wagon]] newly deployed to a fortress can be beset by a large, ravenous group of kea and have their stuff stolen and their days ruined. If you find that your newly founded fortress is infested with kea, a good defensive measure is to move the contents of your wagon underground as quickly as possible, using temporary stockpiles in your fortress entrance if necessary. This will force the pests to stop flying if they want to come and steal something, making them no more or less threatening than other thieving beasts.

Some dwarves [[Preferences|like]] kea for their ''curiosity'' and their ''intelligence''.

[[Image:Kea on rock while snowing.jpg|thumb|center|400px|Admired for its ''curiosity'']]

{{D for Dwarf}}

Apparently undead versions of kea are instantly transformed into kung-fu masters at the moment of their infection, being witnessed on multiple occasions to shatter bones of dwarf sized creatures (including femurs) through bronze and steel armor with no more than a light tap from one of their toes -- as utterly improbable as it may seem for a bird their size. The only scholarly explanation for this odd phenomena so far is that it may be a cruel inside joke of Armok himself.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Wolf man

2017-11-27T18:52:51Z

Rriegs: Tag D for Dwarf content

{{Quality|Superior|19:01, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
}}
{{av}}
{{new in v0.42}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Wolf men''' are humanoid versions of the common [[wolf]] and a [[Creature|species]] of unremarkable [[animal people]], found in a variety of [[savage]] [[biome]]s. They are about as heavy as a [[dwarf]], being only slightly smaller, and should pose no real threat to a civilian unless provoked. They are particularly rare to encounter compared to most animal men.

Like other savage animal people, wolf men may occasionally join [[civilization]]s, becoming full-fledged citizens who may appear in your fortress as [[visitor]]s or be playable in [[adventurer mode]].

Some dwarves [[Preferences|like]] wolf men for their ''cunning''.

{{D for Dwarf}}

There is currently no clear link between the Wolf Men known to appear in Dwarf Fortress and the Wolf Men known to appear in extremely badly-made B movies, although they stand roughly equal chance of becoming involved in hideous, gory horror shows.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Giant walrus

2017-06-28T02:48:22Z

Rriegs: Added quality rating "Fine" using the rating script

{{Quality|Fine|02:48, 28 June 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|fat=74
|eye=2
|lung=56
|heart=14
|intestine=84
|liver=28
|tripe=28
|sweetbread=14
|spleen=14
|kidney=28
|brain=28
|skull=1
|skin=hide
|meat=357
|ivory=6
|tooth=1
|bone=95
|contrib=no
|wiki=no}}
{{av}}
{{new in v0.42}}
{{creaturedesc}}

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

DF2014 Talk:Instrument

2017-06-27T15:45:02Z

Rriegs: /* Instruments */ mention procedural generation

http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=154254.0
Collected by bay12 forum user Aranna.

Posting here so it doesn't get lost. Should be useful for the person expanding this article.[[User:CLA|CLA]] ([[User talk:CLA|talk]]) 15:29, 3 December 2015 (UTC)

== Instruments ==
An incomplete list
{| class = "wikitable sortable"
! Instrument
! Part
! Material
! Produced at
|-
|Nir
|Nir keyboard
|Stone
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|
|Nir case
|Ceramic
|Kiln
|-
|
|Nir bells
|Stone
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|Etes
|Etes body
|Bones
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|
|Etes strings
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|
|Etes hammers
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|Theb
|Theb bellows
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|
|Theb bag
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|
|Theb melody pipes
|Ceramic
|Kiln
|-
|
|Theb drone pipes
|Stone
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|Tiklon
|Tiklon bars
|Wood
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|
|Tiklon stands
|Glass
|Glass Furnace
|-
|Kurel
|Kurel drum
|Stone
|Mason's Workshop
|-
|
|Kurel head
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|Ingtak
|Ingtak triangles
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|
|Ingtak stand
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|Mishin
|Mishin drum
|Ceramic
|Kiln
|-
|
|Mishin head
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|
|Mishin hammers
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|Metul
|
|
|
|-
|Letom
|
|Bones
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|}
[[User:Ashameron|Ashameron]] ([[User talk:Ashameron|talk]]) 10:33, 19 December 2015 (UTC)

: Keep in mind that this list is specific to your map's civilizations, though the above is a good example of the kinds of things that can be procedurally generated. [[User:Rriegs|Rriegs]] ([[User talk:Rriegs|talk]]) 15:45, 27 June 2017 (UTC)

==Multiple copies?==

From the article:

:" It is possible for larger instrument to require multiple copies of the same instrument piece. For example, a gitnuk is a larger instrument that must be assembled with 1 gitnuk body and 5 gitnuk bar."

In my experience, even though an instrument is described as having several (e.g. blocks), the complete set is created by single job (e.g. forge blocks).--[[User:Loci|Loci]] ([[User talk:Loci|talk]]) 21:26, 29 January 2016 (UTC)

==Regarding non-generated instruments==

Going to test whether the older instrument entity token still functions, and whether instruments made that way are usuable in musical forms. Unless anyone has already attempted this? --[[User:Valos|Valos]] ([[User talk:Valos|talk]]) 18:38, 7 March 2016 (UTC)

:<code>raw/objects/examples and notes/item_instrument_example.txt</code> says they do, though I haven't tried it out. [[User:FortressBuilder|FortressBuilder]] ([[User talk:FortressBuilder|talk]]) 20:05, 7 March 2016 (UTC)

:: Been testing, results are in. First, the old instrument entity token still in fact works, confirming what was mentioned in the example texts in the raw folder. Second, generated musical forms are capable of selecting pre-defined instruments to use. Third, as the example notes indicate, reactions need to be added to allow actually producing and/or assembling the instruments. Will update the entity token as I said I would. --[[User:Valos|Valos]] ([[User talk:Valos|talk]]) 20:07, 7 March 2016 (UTC)

==Strange instrument names==

the heck is a stelid?[[Special:Contributions/216.71.19.121|216.71.19.121]] 23:07, 25 June 2017 (UTC)

:Instrument names and components are randomized per civilization. Inspection of their make up, description, and use in musical forms might give you some idea of how they sound and/or function, but for the most part, they're just curious dwarfy things that somehow make sound. Think of real-world instruments from far-off lands. [[User:Rriegs|Rriegs]] ([[User talk:Rriegs|talk]]) 15:43, 27 June 2017 (UTC)

DF2014 Talk:Instrument

2017-06-27T15:43:06Z

Rriegs: /* Strange instrument names */ signature

http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=154254.0
Collected by bay12 forum user Aranna.

Posting here so it doesn't get lost. Should be useful for the person expanding this article.[[User:CLA|CLA]] ([[User talk:CLA|talk]]) 15:29, 3 December 2015 (UTC)

== Instruments ==
An incomplete list
{| class = "wikitable sortable"
! Instrument
! Part
! Material
! Produced at
|-
|Nir
|Nir keyboard
|Stone
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|
|Nir case
|Ceramic
|Kiln
|-
|
|Nir bells
|Stone
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|Etes
|Etes body
|Bones
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|
|Etes strings
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|
|Etes hammers
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|Theb
|Theb bellows
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|
|Theb bag
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|
|Theb melody pipes
|Ceramic
|Kiln
|-
|
|Theb drone pipes
|Stone
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|Tiklon
|Tiklon bars
|Wood
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|
|Tiklon stands
|Glass
|Glass Furnace
|-
|Kurel
|Kurel drum
|Stone
|Mason's Workshop
|-
|
|Kurel head
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|Ingtak
|Ingtak triangles
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|
|Ingtak stand
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|Mishin
|Mishin drum
|Ceramic
|Kiln
|-
|
|Mishin head
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|
|Mishin hammers
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|Metul
|
|
|
|-
|Letom
|
|Bones
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|}
[[User:Ashameron|Ashameron]] ([[User talk:Ashameron|talk]]) 10:33, 19 December 2015 (UTC)

==Multiple copies?==

From the article:

:" It is possible for larger instrument to require multiple copies of the same instrument piece. For example, a gitnuk is a larger instrument that must be assembled with 1 gitnuk body and 5 gitnuk bar."

In my experience, even though an instrument is described as having several (e.g. blocks), the complete set is created by single job (e.g. forge blocks).--[[User:Loci|Loci]] ([[User talk:Loci|talk]]) 21:26, 29 January 2016 (UTC)

==Regarding non-generated instruments==

Going to test whether the older instrument entity token still functions, and whether instruments made that way are usuable in musical forms. Unless anyone has already attempted this? --[[User:Valos|Valos]] ([[User talk:Valos|talk]]) 18:38, 7 March 2016 (UTC)

:<code>raw/objects/examples and notes/item_instrument_example.txt</code> says they do, though I haven't tried it out. [[User:FortressBuilder|FortressBuilder]] ([[User talk:FortressBuilder|talk]]) 20:05, 7 March 2016 (UTC)

:: Been testing, results are in. First, the old instrument entity token still in fact works, confirming what was mentioned in the example texts in the raw folder. Second, generated musical forms are capable of selecting pre-defined instruments to use. Third, as the example notes indicate, reactions need to be added to allow actually producing and/or assembling the instruments. Will update the entity token as I said I would. --[[User:Valos|Valos]] ([[User talk:Valos|talk]]) 20:07, 7 March 2016 (UTC)

==Strange instrument names==

the heck is a stelid?[[Special:Contributions/216.71.19.121|216.71.19.121]] 23:07, 25 June 2017 (UTC)

:Instrument names and components are randomized per civilization. Inspection of their make up, description, and use in musical forms might give you some idea of how they sound and/or function, but for the most part, they're just curious dwarfy things that somehow make sound. Think of real-world instruments from far-off lands. [[User:Rriegs|Rriegs]] ([[User talk:Rriegs|talk]]) 15:43, 27 June 2017 (UTC)

DF2014 Talk:Instrument

2017-06-27T15:42:44Z

Rriegs: /* Strange instrument names */ explanation

http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=154254.0
Collected by bay12 forum user Aranna.

Posting here so it doesn't get lost. Should be useful for the person expanding this article.[[User:CLA|CLA]] ([[User talk:CLA|talk]]) 15:29, 3 December 2015 (UTC)

== Instruments ==
An incomplete list
{| class = "wikitable sortable"
! Instrument
! Part
! Material
! Produced at
|-
|Nir
|Nir keyboard
|Stone
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|
|Nir case
|Ceramic
|Kiln
|-
|
|Nir bells
|Stone
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|Etes
|Etes body
|Bones
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|
|Etes strings
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|
|Etes hammers
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|Theb
|Theb bellows
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|
|Theb bag
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|
|Theb melody pipes
|Ceramic
|Kiln
|-
|
|Theb drone pipes
|Stone
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|Tiklon
|Tiklon bars
|Wood
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|
|Tiklon stands
|Glass
|Glass Furnace
|-
|Kurel
|Kurel drum
|Stone
|Mason's Workshop
|-
|
|Kurel head
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|Ingtak
|Ingtak triangles
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|
|Ingtak stand
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|Mishin
|Mishin drum
|Ceramic
|Kiln
|-
|
|Mishin head
|Leather
|Leather Works
|-
|
|Mishin hammers
|Metal
|Metalsmith's Forge
|-
|Metul
|
|
|
|-
|Letom
|
|Bones
|Craftsdwarf Workshop
|-
|}
[[User:Ashameron|Ashameron]] ([[User talk:Ashameron|talk]]) 10:33, 19 December 2015 (UTC)

==Multiple copies?==

From the article:

:" It is possible for larger instrument to require multiple copies of the same instrument piece. For example, a gitnuk is a larger instrument that must be assembled with 1 gitnuk body and 5 gitnuk bar."

In my experience, even though an instrument is described as having several (e.g. blocks), the complete set is created by single job (e.g. forge blocks).--[[User:Loci|Loci]] ([[User talk:Loci|talk]]) 21:26, 29 January 2016 (UTC)

==Regarding non-generated instruments==

Going to test whether the older instrument entity token still functions, and whether instruments made that way are usuable in musical forms. Unless anyone has already attempted this? --[[User:Valos|Valos]] ([[User talk:Valos|talk]]) 18:38, 7 March 2016 (UTC)

:<code>raw/objects/examples and notes/item_instrument_example.txt</code> says they do, though I haven't tried it out. [[User:FortressBuilder|FortressBuilder]] ([[User talk:FortressBuilder|talk]]) 20:05, 7 March 2016 (UTC)

:: Been testing, results are in. First, the old instrument entity token still in fact works, confirming what was mentioned in the example texts in the raw folder. Second, generated musical forms are capable of selecting pre-defined instruments to use. Third, as the example notes indicate, reactions need to be added to allow actually producing and/or assembling the instruments. Will update the entity token as I said I would. --[[User:Valos|Valos]] ([[User talk:Valos|talk]]) 20:07, 7 March 2016 (UTC)

==Strange instrument names==

the heck is a stelid?[[Special:Contributions/216.71.19.121|216.71.19.121]] 23:07, 25 June 2017 (UTC)

:Instrument names and components are randomized per civilization. Inspection of their make up, description, and use in musical forms might give you some idea of how they sound and/or function, but for the most part, they're just curious dwarfy things that somehow make sound. Think of real-world instruments from far-off lands.

Two-handed sword

2017-03-01T19:16:26Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:16, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:German - Two-handed Sword - Walters 511335.jpg|right|thumb|450px|'''''Two-handed sword''''']]
A '''two-handed sword''' is an [[attack types|edged]] [[weapon]] that is three times the size of a [[short sword]], with five times the contact area. Two-handed swords have the same basic attacks as other swords, but benefit from increased damage potential at a cost of reduced usability. Two-handed swords can span up to 6 ft. in length, and, as the name implies, were intended for use with a two hand grip. The enormous contact area of two-handed swords allows massive wounds to be inflicted on nearly any target, no matter their size, if body parts are not simply cloven apart or removed altogether.

Two-handed swords use and train the [[swordsdwarf]] skill. As foreign weapons dwarves cannot [[forge]] two-handed swords, limiting supply to whatever low-[[quality]] specimens can be traded from human [[caravan]]s and scavenged from invaders.

[[Weapon#Size|Due to the size of two-handed swords]], most dwarves are unable to equip them. With height and broadness modifiers, some dwarves ''should'' be able to use a two-handed sword, and a select few might manage to do so one-handed. Unfortunately, due to a [[#Bugs|bug]], two-handed swords cannot currently be equipped by any dwarves.

==Bugs==
In fortress mode, one-handed vs. two-handed checks are performed correctly, but can wield vs. can't wield ignores height and broadness modifiers, so dwarves cannot equip two-handed swords.{{Bug|0005812}} See [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=119068.msg3790913#msg3790913 this forum post] for details.

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_SWORD_2H}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Flail

2017-03-01T19:16:14Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:16, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:Klassischer-Flegel.jpg|right|thumb|200px|''A '''flail''''']]
A '''flail''' is a [[attack types|blunt]] [[weapon]] that consists of a rounded weight attached to a handle by a length of chain. Flails are the same size as a [[morningstar]], but have a contact area twice as large as a much larger [[maul]]. They do benefit from a slightly increased velocity multiplier, but likely not enough to overcome their other characteristics.

Flails use and train the [[macedwarf]] skill. As foreign weapons dwarves cannot [[forge]] flails, limiting supply to whatever low-[[quality]] specimens can be traded from human [[caravan]]s and scavenged from invaders. Almost all dwarves can equip flails, though [[Weapon#Size|some must use two hands]].

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_FLAIL}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Great axe

2017-03-01T19:15:57Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:15, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:Tholtig.jpg|right|thumb|250px|''[[Main:Tholtig|Tholtig]] poses with a '''great axe''' (by burningpet)'']]
A '''great axe''' is an [[attack types|edged]] [[weapon]] that is essentially a larger [[battle axe]]. Great axes are more than 50% larger than standard battle axes, though their attacks remain the same. A great axe's blade has a 50% larger contact area and 33% greater penetration, for even more limb-severing fun.

Great axes use and train the [[Axedwarf]] skill. As foreign weapons dwarves cannot [[forge]] great axes, limiting supply to whatever low-[[quality]] specimens can be traded from human [[caravan]]s and scavenged from invaders.

[[Weapon#Size|Due to the size of great axes]], most dwarves are unable to equip them. With height and broadness modifiers, some dwarves ''should'' be able to use a great axe, and a select few might manage to do so one-handed. Unfortunately, due to a [[#Bugs|bug]], great axes cannot currently be equipped by any dwarves.

==Bugs==
In fortress mode, one-handed vs. two-handed checks are performed correctly, but can wield vs. can't wield ignores height and broadness modifiers, so dwarves cannot equip great axes.{{Bug|5812}} See [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=119068.msg3790913#msg3790913 this forum post] for details.

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_AXE_GREAT}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Long sword

2017-03-01T19:15:37Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:15, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:Espadon-Morges.jpg|right|thumb|100px|'''''Long sword''''']]
A '''long sword''' is an [[attack types|edged]] [[weapon]] that is more than twice the size of a [[short sword]], but still 30% smaller than a [[two-handed sword]]. Long swords have the same basic attacks as other swords, but benefit from increased damage potential over short swords, and increased usability over two handed swords.

Long swords use and train the [[swordsdwarf]] skill. As foreign weapons dwarves cannot [[forge]] long swords, limiting supply to whatever low-[[quality]] specimens can be traded from human [[caravan]]s and scavenged from invaders.

Although longer than standard short swords, most dwarves are still [[Weapon#Size|able to equip]] long swords. With height and broadness modifiers, some dwarves ''should'' be unable to use a long sword, and a few others might only manage to do so two-handed. Currently, due to a [[#Bugs|bug]], long swords can be equipped by all dwarves, no matter their size.

==Bugs==
In fortress mode, one-handed vs. two-handed checks are performed correctly, but can wield vs. can't wield ignores height and broadness modifiers, so all dwarves can equip long swords.{{Bug|0005812}} See [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=119068.msg3790913#msg3790913 this] forum post for details.

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_SWORD_LONG}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Morningstar

2017-03-01T19:15:24Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:15, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:Mace, Indo-Persia, 18th or 19th century - Higgins Armory Museum - DSC05617.JPG|right|thumb|200px|''A '''morningstar''''']]
A '''morningstar''' is an [[attack types|edged]] [[weapon]] that consists of a spiked ball mounted on the end of a handle. Despite similarities to a [[mace]] in appearance, a morningstar's size and contact area are closer to those of a [[war hammer]]. Specifically, a morningstar is 25% larger than a war hammer with the same contact area, and uses [[attack types|piercing]] damage to inflict internal injuries.

Morningstars use and train the [[macedwarf]] skill. As foreign weapons dwarves cannot [[forge]] morningstars, limiting supply to whatever low-[[quality]] specimens can be traded from human [[caravan]]s and scavenged from invaders. All dwarves can equip morningstars, though [[Weapon#Size|a tiny fraction must use two hands]].

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_MORNINGSTAR}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Pike (weapon)

2017-03-01T19:15:09Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:15, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''
:''For the fish, see [[Pike (fish)]].''

[[Image:Pike example.jpg|right|thumb|250px|'''''Pike''' on the right. On the left is what would be called a "[[halberd]]" in Dwarf Fortress.'']]
A '''pike''' is a piercing [[weapon]] that is essentially a very long [[spear]]. Pikes are twice the size of standard [[spear]]s, with a 20% increase in penetration (which, theoretically, should prove useful when fighting [[forgotten beast|large monsters]]). Attack range is not currently modeled, so pikes are neither granted the initial attack nor rendered useless as enemies advance to close combat range.

Pikes use and train the [[Pikeman]] / Pikedwarf skill. As foreign weapons, dwarves cannot [[forge]] pikes, limiting supply to whatever low-[[quality]] specimens can be traded from human [[caravan]]s and scavenged from invaders.

[[Weapon#Size|Due to the size of pikes]], most dwarves are unable to equip them. With height and broadness modifiers, some dwarves ''should'' be able to use a pike, and a select few might manage to do so one-handed. Unfortunately, due to a [[#Bugs|bug]], pikes cannot currently be equipped by any dwarves.

==Bugs==
In fortress mode, one-handed vs. two-handed checks are performed correctly, but can wield vs. can't wield ignores height and broadness modifiers, so dwarves cannot equip pikes.{{Bug|0005812}} See [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=119068.msg3790913#msg3790913 this] forum post for details.

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_PIKE}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Scimitar

2017-03-01T19:14:49Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:14, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:Scimitar redone.svg|right|thumb|200px|''A rendering of a '''scimitar''''']]
A '''scimitar''' is an [[attack types|edged]] [[weapon]] with a curved blade that is very similar to a [[short sword]]. In fact, the only differentiating factor appears to be the contact area of the pommel, which is half the size of those on a short sword.

Scimitars use and train the [[swordsdwarf]] skill. As foreign weapons dwarves cannot [[forge]] scimitars, limiting supply to whatever low-[[quality]] specimens can be traded from human [[caravan]]s and scavenged from invaders. All dwarves can equip scimitars, though, like short swords, [[Weapon#Size|a tiny fraction must use two hands]]. Given their marked similarity to short swords, your dwarves are almost certainly better served by equipping high-quality short swords.

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_SCIMITAR}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Scourge

2017-03-01T19:14:33Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:14, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

A '''scourge''' is an [[attack types|edge]] [[weapon]] that consists of a spike or bladed weight on the end of a flexible length of [[material]] that can be swung at high speed. Scourges have low contact area and high velocity, making them effective even against [[armor]]ed opponents. Scourges are similar to [[whip]]s, though the whip is a blunt weapon with an even smaller contact area.

Scourges use and train the [[lasher]] skill. As foreign weapons dwarves cannot [[forge]] scourges, limiting supply to whatever low-[[quality]] specimens can be scavenged from [[goblin]] invaders. [[Weapon#Size|Even the smallest dwarves]] can equip a scourge one-handed.

[[File:Roman-scourge-1.jpg|thumb|left|]]

{{Translation
| dwarven = abshoth
| elvish = fétha
| goblin = song
| human = etuk
}}

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_SCOURGE}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Whip

2017-03-01T19:14:07Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:14, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:NAMA Fouet votif.jpg|right|thumb|250px|''A [[bronze]] '''whip''''']]
A '''whip''' is a [[attack types|blunt]] [[weapon]] that consists of a flexible length of [[material]] that can be swung with great speed. Whips have the lowest contact area and highest velocity multiplier in the game, making them amazingly effective, even against [[armor]]ed opponents; this behavior has been reported as a [[#Bugs|bug]]. Whips are similar to [[scourge]]s, though the scourge is an edge weapon with a larger contact area.

Whips use and train the [[lasher]] skill. As foreign weapons whips cannot be [[forge|forged]] by dwarves, limiting supply to whatever low-[[quality]] specimens can be traded from human [[caravan]]s and scavenged from invaders. [[Weapon#Size|Even the smallest dwarves]] can equip a whip one-handed.

==Bugs==
* Whips cut through steel armor like butter. While this is very beneficial(given that it is not being used against you), it is still a bug, and is bound to be fixed sometime. {{bug|2712}}

{{Translation
| dwarven = bomrek
| elvish = baci
| goblin = sox
| human = uthret
}}

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_WHIP}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Mace

2017-03-01T19:13:46Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:13, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[File:Maza_de_armas.jpg|right|thumb|upright=0.5|''A '''mace''''']]
A '''mace''' is a [[attack types|blunt]] [[weapon]] that consists of a rounded or flanged weight mounted on the end of a handle. Despite similarities to a [[morningstar]] in appearance, a mace is 60% larger and has twice the contact area. Compared to the other native impact weapon, maces are twice the size of [[war hammer]]s, with twice the contact area. What this means in combat is, generally speaking, [[hammer]]s are better at punching through armor or damaging bones and organs, while maces do more tissue damage on unarmored opponents, leading to faster pulping of unprotected body parts.

Maces use and train the [[macedwarf]] skill. Dwarves can [[forge]] effective maces out of any weapons-grade [[metal]], though those with higher densities (like [[silver]]) or higher impact fracture/yields (like [[steel]]) tend to cause more damage. All dwarves can equip maces, though [[Weapon#Size|a tiny fraction must use two hands]].

If dwarves have a word for Maces or similar weapons, it's not explicitly known; the most likely candidates however are "astesh" ''(or Cudgel,)'' and "og" ''(meaning Club,)'' though the term for hammers (Nil,) might also be used as a blanket term for any blunt instrument specifically meant for combat.

== Forging and Melting ==
* Maces cost '''one''' [[metal]] bar to [[forge]], or '''three''' [[adamantine]] wafers.
* When a non-adamantine mace is [[Melt_item|melted down]], it will return '''0.9''' metal bars, for an '''efficiency of 90%'''.
* When an adamantine mace is melted down, it will produce '''0.9''' wafers, for an '''efficiency of 30%'''

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_MACE}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Pick

2017-03-01T19:13:30Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:13, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}
[[Image:Pickaxe.jpg|thumb|220px|≡Iron pickaxe≡]]
A '''pick''' is a [[equipment|digging implement]] / [[weapon]] that can be [[Metalsmith's forge|forged]] from most weapon-grade [[metal]]s, such as [[copper]], [[iron]], [[bronze]], [[bismuth bronze]], [[steel]], and [[adamantine]]. Picks cannot be made from [[silver]] although other [[weapon]]s can be forged from silver. Picks are essential for a properly functioning fortress: [[miner]]s require picks to strike the earth, dig tunnels, carve staircases and everything else related to the removal of rock and soil tiles. You will need to purchase or create picks on embark as miners won't bring their own. Without picks, your dwarves will be stranded on the surface, forced to live like [[elf|elves]]. The [[quality]] and [[material]] of a pick have no effect on its speed digging through rock; that depends solely on the user's [[Mining]] skill level.

Picks can also be used as weapons. They inflict [[attack types|EDGE type]] damage, tend to impale or dismember enemies, and gain damage bonuses by the user's Mining skill level. Picks are brutally effective, combining slashing and impaling and generally far better than anything that isn't a [[whip]] or [[scourge]]. Unlike when digging through rock, [[quality]] and [[material]] are both important when using a pick as a weapon. Since a [[steel]] pick can penetrate most armor, picks are effective weapons against any foe, armored, [[Forgotten beast|forgotten]], [[Bronze colossus|bronze]], or otherwise. Almost all dwarves can equip picks; [[Weapon#Size|some must use two hands]].

== Forging and Melting ==
* Metal picks cost '''one''' [[metal]] bar to [[forge]], or '''four''' [[adamantine]] wafers.
* When a non-adamantine metal pick is [[melt|melted down]], it will return '''1.2''' metal bars, for an '''efficiency of 120%'''.
* When an adamantine pick is melted down, it will produce '''1.2''' wafers, for an '''efficiency of 30%'''.

{{Translation
| dwarven = tekkud
| elvish = mubara
| goblin = otez
| human = tekud
}}

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_PICK}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Short sword

2017-03-01T19:13:21Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:13, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:Steel.jpg|right|thumb|400px|''[[Steel]] '''short sword''''']]
A '''short sword''' is an [[attack types|edged]] [[weapon]] that is larger than a knife, with a blade long enough to make slashing effective but shorter than [[long sword|other swords]]. Short swords have the same basic attacks as other swords, but suffer slightly because of their reduced size. As with all edged weapons, metals with good edge properties are most effective.

==Properties==
Short swords use and train the [[swordsman]] skill (called "Swordsdwarf" in dwarf mode). They have stabbing and slashing attacks, along with a blunt pommel strike. Swords can be useful for dealing with all kinds of foes, although they're not as good at any of these attacks as more specialized weapons.

==Fortress mode==
Dwarves can [[forge]] short swords out of any weapon-grade [[metal]], but those with [[material science|superior edge properties]] are more effective. "Rock short swords" are a special type of short sword that are constructed out of [[obsidian]] (with [[wood]]en handles) by a [[stonecrafter]] at a [[craftsdwarf's workshop]]. Rock short swords may be based on the Aztec [[wikipedia:Macuahuitl|Macuahuitl]], described as being a club with rows of sharp stone edge affixed to the sides. All dwarves can equip short swords, but [[Weapon#Size|a tiny fraction must use two hands]].

=== Forging and Melting ===
* Metal short swords cost '''one''' [[metal]] bar to [[forge]], or '''three''' [[adamantine]] wafers.
* When a non-adamantine metal short sword is [[melt|melted down]], it will return '''0.9''' metal bars, for an '''efficiency of 90%'''.
* When an adamantine short sword is melted down, it will produce '''0.9''' wafers, for an '''efficiency of 30%'''

==Adventurer mode==
As an adventurer, it is possible to play as a swordsman. If you're an elf or a dwarf, a short sword is a good all-round weapon. which can be used successfully on a wide variety of foes, but is most effective against lightly armoured creatures. Generally, it's best to ''slash'' when fighting relatively small, unarmoured foes (goblins, kobolds, and humans for example), and to ''stab'' larger, unarmoured foes, such as megabeasts. Short swords are not usually a good choice against heavily armoured foes, unless your sword is made of better metal than your opponents' armour, as the blunt pommel strike is rather weak.

<gallery>
File:Macuahuitl.png|a drawing of an obsidian shortsword
</gallery>

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_SWORD_SHORT}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Spear

2017-03-01T19:13:02Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:13, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:Brooklyn Museum 22.1419 Spear.jpg|right|thumb|250px|''A '''spear''''']]
A '''spear''' is a piercing [[weapon]] that is essentially a sharply pointed blade mounted on the end of a long handle. Spears are half the size of [[pike (weapon)|pikes]], but only suffer a 17% decrease in penetration.

Spears use and train the [[speardwarf]] skill. Dwarves can [[forge]] spears out of any weapon-grade [[metal]] but those with [[material science|superior edge properties]] are more effective. For the purposes of building a realistic [[danger room]], less lethal wooden spears may be used if purchased from elves first. All dwarves can equip spears, but [[Weapon#Size|some must use two hands]].

Spears may also be installed in [[trap#Upright Spear/Spike|upright spear traps]], allowing them to be mechanically operated; this is particularly useful for constructing [[danger room]]s.

== Forging and melting ==
* Metal spears cost '''one''' [[metal]] bar to [[forge]], or '''three''' [[adamantine]] wafers.
* When a non-adamantine metal spear is [[melt|melted down]], it will return '''0.9''' metal bars, for an '''efficiency of 90%'''.
* When an adamantine spear is melted down, it will produce '''0.9''' wafers, for an '''efficiency of 30%'''

{{Translation
| dwarven = lokum
| elvish = iti
| goblin = bukza
| human = asi
}}

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_SPEAR}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

War hammer

2017-03-01T19:12:52Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:12, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:War hammer IMG 3825.jpg|right|thumb|200px|''A '''war hammer''''']]
A '''war hammer''' is a [[attack types|blunt]] [[weapon]] that is essentially a hammer with a long handle. A war hammer is half the size of a [[mace]] with half the contact area as well, and less than 1/3 the size of a [[maul]]. Because blunt damage focused in a small contact area is mostly unaffected by [[armor]], war hammers are considered one of the best weapons for fighting humanoid opponents.

War hammers use and train the [[hammerdwarf]] skill. Dwarves can [[forge]] effective war hammers out of any weapons-grade [[metal]], though those with higher densities (like [[silver]]) or higher impact fracture/yields (like [[steel]]) tend to cause more damage. All dwarves can equip war hammers, though [[Weapon#Size|a tiny fraction must use two hands]].

== Forging and Melting ==
* Metal war hammers cost '''one''' [[metal]] bar to [[forge]], or '''three''' [[adamantine]] wafers.
* When a non-adamantine metal war hammer is [[melt|melted down]], it will return '''0.9''' metal bars, for an '''efficiency of 90%'''.
* When an adamantine war hammer is melted down, it will produce '''0.9''' wafers, for an '''efficiency of 30%'''

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_HAMMER_WAR}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Dagger

2017-03-01T19:12:39Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:12, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

:''For a comparison of different weapons, see [[Weapon]].''

[[Image:HJRK A 48 - Scheibendolch, 1490-1500.jpg|right|thumb|250px|''A '''large dagger''' (specifically a "rondel dagger")'']]
A '''large dagger''' is a [[attack types|edge]] [[weapon]] that is essentially larger than a knife but smaller than a [[short sword]]. Compared to the standard short sword, large daggers have no "flat" attack and a significantly less lethal "slash" attack, but gain a much more vicious "stab" attack with 1/10 the contact area of a sword point. This makes large daggers particularly effective against [[armor]]ed opponents: an iron dagger has a fair chance to pierce even [[steel]] armor, and the resulting internal injuries can be debilitating and deadly.

Large daggers use and train the [[knife user]] skill, and are common weapons for [[kobold]] and [[goblin]] thieves. As foreign weapons dwarves cannot [[forge]] large daggers, limiting supply to whatever low-[[quality]] specimens can be scavenged from ambushers. [[Weapon#Size|Even the smallest dwarves]] are able to equip large daggers one-handed.

All [[Adventure mode]] characters start with a large dagger, usually made of copper. Even [[elf|elven]] adventurers will receive a metal dagger.

{{Translation
| dwarven = urist
| elvish = acita
| goblin = ulspa
| human = olith
}}

{{Gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:item_weapon.txt|ITEM_WEAPON|ITEM_WEAPON_DAGGER_LARGE}}}}
{{Weapons}}
{{Category|Weapons}}

Wolf man

2017-03-01T19:01:17Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Tattered" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|19:01, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
}}
{{av}}
{{new in v0.42}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Wolf men''' are humanoid versions of the common [[wolf]] and a [[Creature|species]] of unremarkable [[animal people]], found in a variety of [[savage]] [[biome]]s. They are about as heavy as a [[dwarf]], being only slightly smaller, and should pose no real threat to a civilian unless provoked. They are particularly rare to encounter compared to most animal men.

Like other savage animal people, wolf men may occasionally join [[civilization]]s, becoming full-fledged citizens who may appear in your fortress as [[visitor]]s or be playable in [[adventurer mode]].

Some dwarves [[Preferences|like]] wolf men for their ''cunning''.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Hateable

2017-03-01T18:57:18Z

Rriegs: Added quality rating "Fine" using the rating script

{{Quality|Fine|18:57, 1 March 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

'''Hateable''' [[vermin]] (creatures with the {{token|VERMIN_HATEABLE}} [[Creature token|token]]) can appear as negative [[Dwarf|dwarven]] [[preference]]s. Dwarves who encounter detested vermin (or even an artistic rendering of one) may experience a negative [[thought]]. Being hated by some dwarves does not prevent the vermin from appearing as a positive preference for other dwarves. Be careful when selecting [[engraver]]s--a fortress full of hated engravings can lead to civil unrest.

==Hateable Vermin==

The following vermin are hateable:

*[[Bark scorpion]]
*[[Bat]]
*[[Blood gnat]]
*[[Brown recluse spider]]
*[[Cave spider]]
*[[Fly]]
*[[Hamster]]
*[[Jumping spider]]
*[[Large roach]]
*[[Leech]]
*[[Lizard]]
*[[Moon snail]]
*[[Mosquito]]
*[[Mussel]]
*[[Oyster]]
*[[Purring maggot]]
*[[Rat]]
*[[Slug]]
*[[Snail]]
*[[Toad]]
*[[Worm]]

{{Category|Creature attributes}}

Buzzard

2017-02-28T23:28:42Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|23:28, 28 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|meat=0-2
|fat=0-2
|skull=1
|skin=hide
|contrib=no
|wiki=Turkey_Vulture
}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Buzzards''' are incredibly weak and extremely annoying [[Creature|animals]] that should be prepared for on [[embark]] to any [[biome]] where they are present. An individual buzzard can steal a stack of [[food]] and they travel in groups of five to ten. They can be particularly devastating for a newly set up fortress which hasn't yet planted a [[farm]]; while the buzzards feast upon prepared warthog kidney, you'll be searching for [[vermin]] to eat. They also have no qualms about stealing directly from your above-ground farm, biting at your [[farmer]]s, and grabbing strawberries right out from under their noses.

It is possible to capture them in cage [[trap]]s, providing you with a very ugly bird to release into your zoo. They can be [[Animal trainer|trained]] into [[pet]]s, but generally aren't worth it due to their low pet value. Buzzards will claim and lay [[egg]]s in an available [[nest box]], should you wish to create a swarm of buzzards for your latest project, though they only lay 2 to 3 eggs at a time which is rather poor to [[egg production]] compared to all domesticated poultry. Buzzard eggs, like all eggs, hatch after exactly 3 months.

Buzzards leave very little when butchered. Around half of them will be stripped down to nothing more than a [[skull]] for your [[bone carver]]s.

The creature used in-game is known in real life as the turkey vulture, popularly called buzzard in North America, even though they are not actually related to common buzzards.

Some dwarves like buzzards for their ''striking red face''.

[[File:Urubu_a_tete_rouge_-_Turkey_Vulture.jpg|thumb|400px|center|Admired for its ''striking red face''.]]

{{Translation
| dwarven = setnek
| elvish = acithe
| goblin = âng
| human = jozi
}}

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Giant kangaroo

2017-02-28T23:28:17Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|23:28, 28 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|bone=22
|meat=25-28
|fat=16
|lung=2
|heart=1
|intestine=3-4
|liver=1
|tripe=1
|spleen=1
|kidney=2
|brain=1
|skull=1
|skin=hide
|contrib=no
}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Giant kangaroos''' are oversized [[creature|cousins]] of the common [[kangaroo]], found in [[savage]] [[temperate]] and [[desert]] [[biome]]s. They are 9 times heavier than their normal cousins and about 14 times heavier than a [[dwarf]], but despite their great size, they are benign and will run away from dwarves who attack them. In the event they fight back, they may deal great damage to civilians, though they'll probably not last long against even an unarmored [[hunter]]. Unlike normal kangaroos, males and females are both simply named giant kangaroos, though their babies are referred to as ''giant kangaroo joeys''.

Giant kangaroos can be captured in [[cage]] [[trap]]s and [[Animal trainer|trained]] into [[pet]]s, possessing the standard value of giant creatures. Their large size means they give a good amount of returns when [[butcher]]ed, and like normal kangaroos, they also serve as a source of [[milk]] and later [[cheese]]. Note, however, that giant kangaroo milk and normal-sized kangaroo milk are completely identical in every aspect. They are exotic [[mount]]s, and so may be used by [[Elf|elves]] during [[siege]]s.

Some dwarves [[Preferences|like]] giant kangaroos for their ''pouches'' and their ''great leaps''.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}

Kangaroo man

2017-02-28T23:28:05Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|23:28, 28 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Kangaroo men''' are humanoid versions of the common [[kangaroo]] and a [[Creature|species]] of unremarkable [[animal people]], found in [[savage]] [[desert]] and [[temperate]] [[biome]]s. They are about as heavy as a [[dwarf]], being only slightly heavier, and should pose no real threat to a civilian unless provoked.

Like other savage animal people, kangaroo men may occasionally join [[civilization]]s, becoming full-fledged citizens who may appear in your fortress as [[visitor]]s or be playable in [[adventurer mode]].

Some dwarves [[Preferences|like]] kangaroo men for their ''pouches'' and their ''great leaps''.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}

Kangaroo

2017-02-28T23:27:51Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|23:27, 28 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{creaturelookup/0
|bone=10-22
|meat=14-17
|fat=11-16
|skull=1
|lung=2
|intestine=0-1
|spleen=0-1
|kidney=0-2
|brain=1
|heart=0-1
|liver=1
|tripe=1
|sweetbread=0-1
|skin=hide
|hair=0-1
|contrib=no
|wiki=yes}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Kangaroos''' are a species of [[creature]] found in [[temperate]] and [[desert]] [[biome]]s, spawning in groups of 2 to 4 individuals. While bigger than a [[dwarf]], these animals are benign and do little but meander around aimlessly, fleeing from dwarves who provoke them, and only rarely defending themselves with punches, kicks and bites. Males of the species are called ''kangaroo bucks'', females are called ''kangaroo does'' and babies are called ''kangaroo joeys''.

Kangaroos can be captured in [[cage]] [[trap]]s and [[Animal trainer|trained]] into [[pet]]s. They are [[grazer]]s and therefore require a [[pasture]] to survive after being trained, but are distinct for being one of the only exotic sources of [[milk]] and [[cheese]] (the other being the [[tapir]]). They provide a good amount of returns when [[butcher]]ed, being large enough to produce [[prepared organs]] when adults. They reach their full size at 2 years of age and therefore should be butchered at that point for maximum returns.

Some dwarves [[Preferences|like]] kangaroos for their ''pouches'' and their ''great leaps''.

[[File:Kangaroo and joey03.jpg|thumb|center|300px|Admired for its ''great leaps''.]]

{{gamedata}}
{{creatures}}

Giant tapir

2017-02-23T19:47:45Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:47, 23 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|meat=49-60
|tooth=0-1
|fat=27-29
|eye=2
|lung=2-4
|heart=1
|intestine=4-7
|liver=1-2
|tripe=1-2
|sweetbread=1
|kidney=2
|spleen=1
|brain=1-2
|bone=40-44
|skull=1
|skin=hide
|contrib=no
}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Giant tapirs''' are [[creature]]s found in [[savage]] [[tropical]] moist broadleaf [[forest]]s; the much larger cousin of the common [[tapir]]. They are considerably larger than both [[Dwarf|dwarves]] and normal tapirs, weighting nearly 2 tons - about 28 times heavier than the average Urist - though despite their great size, they are as benign as their common cousins and will react to attackers by trying to run away from them. Note, however, that they can deal massive damage to dwarves in the event they do fight back, so it's good to keep an eye open. Like normal tapirs, a baby giant tapir is named a ''giant tapir calf''.

Giant tapirs can be captured in [[cage]] [[trap]]s and [[Animal trainer|trained]] into [[pet]]s, possessing the standard value of giant creatures. Their huge size means they give a very good amount of returns when [[butcher]]ed, and like normal tapirs, they also serve as a source of [[milk]] and later [[cheese]]. Note, however, that giant tapir milk and normal-sized tapir milk are completely identical in every aspect. They are exotic [[mount]]s, and so may be used by [[Elf|elves]] during [[siege]]s.

Some dwarves [[Preferences|like]] giant tapirs for their ''floppy noses''.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}

Tapir man

2017-02-23T19:47:33Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:47, 23 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Tapir men''' are humanoid versions of the common [[tapir]] and a [[Creature|species]] of unremarkable [[animal people]], found in [[savage]] [[tropical]] most broadleaf [[forest]]s. They are a little over twice the weight of a [[dwarf]], and therefore should be approached with caution.

Like other savage animal people, tapir men may occasionally join [[civilization]]s, becoming full-fledged citizens who may appear in your fortress as [[visitor]]s or be playable in [[adventurer mode]].

Some dwarves [[Preferences|like]] tapir men for their ''floppy noses''.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}

Tapir

2017-02-23T19:47:14Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:47, 23 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{creaturelookup/0
|bone=18
|meat=13
|fat=12
|lung=2
|heart=1
|intestine=1
|liver=1
|tripe=1
|sweetbread=1
|spleen=1
|kidney=2
|brain=1
|skull=1
|skin=hide
|contrib=no
|wiki=yes
}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}

'''Tapirs''' are [[creature]]s who inhabit [[tropical]] moist broadleaf [[forest]]s. Weighting over three times more than a [[dwarf]], they spawn individually and meander the area, paying no mind to other creatures. Tapirs are benign herbivores and will flee from attackers, but if cornered, they may attempt to defend themselves with kicks and bites. In [[adventurer mode]], they are more easily sighted at twilight and at night. A baby tapir is called a ''tapir calf''.

Tapirs can be captured in [[cage]] [[trap]]s and [[Animal trainer|trained]] into [[pet]]s of respectable value. They are [[grazer]]s and therefore require a [[pasture]] to survive after being trained, but are distinct for being one of the only exotic sources of [[milk]] and [[cheese]] (the other being the [[kangaroo]]). Because of their size, they produce a good amount of returns when [[butcher]]ed, making the idea of a tapir farm an attractive one for the long term. Tapirs reach their full size at 2 years of age and therefore should be butchered at that point for maximum returns.

Some dwarves [[Preferences|like]] tapirs for their ''floppy noses''.

[[File:South American tapir (Tapirus terrestris).JPG|thumb|400px|center|Admired for their ''floppy noses''.]]

{{gamedata}}
{{creatures}}

Mud

2017-02-22T22:31:04Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|22:31, 22 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

'''Mud''' is a [[contaminant]] produced when an area is covered with [[water]], and colors tiles brown. Mud also occurs naturally in deep [[cavern|caverns]]. Muddied stone can be used for [[farming]], [[Pasture|grazing]], [[Herbalist|plant gathering]], and [[Tree#Growing_trees|growing subterranean trees]]. "A pile of mud" in water sources can result in "[[Water#Water_laced_with_mud|water laced with mud]]" which can lead to problems if your dwarves use it.

''Note: Upon [[reclaim fortress mode|reclaiming a fortress]], '''every single bit of mud will disappear''', including even mud in caverns.''

[[Titan]]s, [[forgotten beast]]s, and [[demon]]s are occasionally made of mud.

== Farming and spontaneous growth on mud ==

The plants that can be [[farming|farmed]] on mud are the same as those that would grow on soil in the same place. Biome-appropriate grass (useful for [[Pasture|grazing]]) and plants (and, if underground, trees) will also spontaneously grow on muddy stone just like any other soil tile. [[Tile_attributes|Above-ground]] plants can't grow or be farmed on underground tiles, and visa versa, though tiles can be made permanently "above-ground" by exposing them to light. And perhaps unfortunately, muddying stone won't allow farming of different above-ground crops from other biomes. Note that underground plants won't spontaneously grow until a [[cavern]] has been breached, though farming from seeds is still possible. Note also that saplings need more than 1 z-level to mature into adult, wood-bearing trees. (see [[tree farming]] for more.)

Constructed floors behave differently. Plants won't spontaneously grow on them, but farms will grow fine. Muddied smoothed floors might behave differently from muddied rough floors also, but more information is needed.{{verify}}

== Muddying areas ==

See [[irrigation]] for some methods. One common way of creating mud is to [[irrigation|flood]] a good sized area from a lake, thus making mud. Another way is to use a pit/pond from the [[Activity zone|activity zone menu]] and have a dwarf throw water over a channeled area into a dug-out area below.

Initial water contact with a clean surface will leave "a dusting of mud", not "a pile of mud". This is sufficient for farming and grazing but not enough to cause any water-contamination problems in reservoirs.

Dumping water on an already muddy area may result in more mud accumulating there, up to "a pile of mud".{{verify}}

== Removing mud ==

Mud can be removed by constructing something over the mud, then deconstructing it, or by smoothing/engraving stone. Mud on soil is removed easily by constructing a dirt road.

Dwarves will not clean mud as a [[cleaning|cleaning labor]], though they will at least sometimes clean blood and possibly other contaminants from muddied surfaces. (needs more info)

Magma will remove mud if it evaporates on a tile.

== Muddy water ==

Using "water laced with mud" can cause health and happiness problems, see the [[Water#Water_laced_with_mud|water page]] for more details. Drinking muddy water is better than dying of thirst, though.

Dug-out reservoirs should be able to store water without contaminating it with mud, since initial flooding with water leaves only "a dusting of mud". However, under some circumstances the reservoir can end up with piles of mud on its floor anyway, especially if slowly filled using buckets. (more information needed.)

Natural [[cavern]] pools have floors covered with "a pile of mud", so make sub-optimal water sources unless they're deep enough that water can be drawn from a tile that doesn't contain "a pile of mud".

{{Translation
| dwarven = ol
| elvish = salapa
| goblin = gob
| human = vum
}}

{{gamedata|{{raw|DF2014:hardcoded_materials.txt|MATERIAL|MUD}}}}
{{Category|Materials}}

Trading

2017-02-22T20:10:05Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|20:10, 22 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

'''Trading''' in Dwarf Fortress first occurs in the first [[Calendar|autumn]] after establishing your fortress, with the arrival of the [[dwarf|Dwarven]] [[Trading#Caravans|caravan]]. Trading is a good way to acquire resources that are not readily available in the local area. It also allows for more freedom in selecting starting gear and skills at [[embark]], since neglected items can be obtained through trade later.

'''Trader''' is the term used at your [[trade depot]] to refer to your fortress representative when dealing with merchants in a visiting caravan ({{key|r}} - "''Trader requested at Depot"''). As a [[profession]], the term applies to visiting merchants and dwarves whose highest [[skill]] is [[Appraiser]].

== Trade Depot ==
{{Main|Trade depot}}
Building a [[trade depot]] is a pre-requisite for trade with caravans that arrive at your fortress.

While it may be convenient to build a Trade Depot outside at first, it is usually a good idea to move it inside or secure it with [[wall]]s, [[bridge]]s and other fortifications to protect caravans and your goods from [[steals drink|thirsty animals]], [[thief|thieves]] and [[goblin]]s.

Everything that is on your map belongs to you, except:
* the items that are on merchant animals and wagons
* the items that are on the trade depot (they belong to the caravan until they are moved out of it)
* items worn by non-fortress units are initially forbidden, but can be claimed via unforbidding and dumping them

==Trading Flowchart ==
{{:Trading/Flowchart}}

==Trader to depot==
Before you can begin trading, your fortress's representative trader must be at the [[trade depot]]. Select the [[trade depot]] with {{K|q}} and then {{k|r}}equest the trader. Be sure that {{k|b}} reads "Only broker may trade" if you want your [[broker]] to represent your fortress. If it reads "Anyone can trade", a random, probably unskilled dwarf will volunteer to conduct the trade. Pressing {{k|b}} will toggle this setting. Once your trader has arrived, select the depot again with {{k|q}} and enter the {{k|t}}rade menu. In the trade menu select the items to offer from the right and the desired items from the left. All caravans have a weight limit which cannot be exceeded, and the allowed additional weight is displayed in the lower right corner. If your broker (specifically, not necessarily your trader) has at least Novice or better [[Appraisal]] skill, the value of all items will be displayed. Once the proposal is ready, press {{K|t}} to propose the trade, but merchants will not agree unless they make adequate profit. Be sure to use '''trade''', not '''offer''' {{K|o}}, as this will make a gift of the selected items. The amount of acceptable profit is determined by the trader's [[Broker skills|skills]] and the merchant's mood, described below. Merchants may attempt to propose counteroffers if they do not accept the proposal, which can then be accepted, rejected, or further amended by the trader.

With more experienced traders and pleased merchants, even marginally profitable trades can be successful, and counterproposals can be rejected safely, offering the same trade again. Note however that a low profit margin for the traders may not be desirable - it has been suggested that both export and profit numbers influence the size of next years caravan and, in the case of the dwarven caravan, immigration numbers.{{Verify}}

Goods brought by caravans rarely have base quality higher than superior, and decorations on a good rarely exceed superior as well.

== Trading cue colors ==

* {{DFtext|Brown|6:0}} Items have been created (or modified) by your fortress. They can be traded away or offered as a gift.
* {{DFtext|Gray|7:0}} Items were created by another source. They can be traded, but if one of these items has been selected, the entire selection cannot be offered as a gift.
* {{DFtext|Purple|5:0}} Items are under a no-export mandate. If they are traded away it will result in disciplinary action (see [[justice]]) against the dwarf that brought the item to the depot.
* {{DFtext|Green|2:0}} Items have just been gifted to the caravan and they will not trade it back.
* {{DFtext|Red|4:0}} Items have been seized from another caravan and cannot be traded as is; you will need to decorate them or turn them into other items for them to become "valid" trading items.

Note that containers (barrels, bins, etc.) will be displayed according to the origin of the ''container'', not the contents. So a foreign barrel holding locally-produced beer will display as foreign (white). Once you {{k|v}}iew the container, the locally-made contents are displayed as local (brown).

== Merchant mood ==
If your trader has Novice or better [[Judge of intent]] skill, there will be a line added below the merchant's dialogue describing the caravan's attitude. Their attitude rises with successful trades (especially if they get lots of profit) and falls when you propose deals they don't like. You can never make a deal that's at loss for the merchant, even if they are at the highest possible mood.

* (trader) seems ecstatic with the trading
* (trader) seems very happy about the trading
* (trader) seems pleased with the trading
* (trader) seems willing to trade
* (trader) seems to be rapidly losing patience
* (trader) is not going to take much more of this
* (trader) is unwilling to trade

The happier you make a merchant, the less profit margin he will demand in a trade. If merchants reach the lowest level, no further trade will be possible, and they will immediately pack up and leave your depot. Since annoyed traders are more likely to reject deals, you should be generous in initial negotiations. Skilled negotiators seem less likely to offend traders with unsuccessful deals.

An easy way to capitalize on this mood system is to perform several partial trades. First trade for a few items, offering goods twice the value of the items you ask for (e.g. offer 2000☼ for 1000☼ of his stuff). This will likely make the merchant ecstatic about trading with you. Perform the next trades with a vengeance. With the merchant in such a good mood, he is more likely to counteroffer than reject a trade outright.

== Seizing items ==

Pressing {{K|s}} from the trade menu will seize the selected items of the merchant's. If you seize goods from a caravan, the merchant will respond "Take what you want. I can't stop you." and then leave immediately without the seized goods. Items cannot be seized from the dwarven caravan, and other races will not buy goods stolen from one of their caravans (then marked in red) unless they are tricked into asking for them via counteroffer, or the items are "laundered" by decoration or used to create other goods. Seizing goods will hurt diplomatic relations, but is not grounds for an automatic [[siege]].

Pressing the seize button while no goods are selected will result in the merchant interpreting your seizure as a joke. This apparently does nothing to benefit or hinder your trading.

As a side note, if you deconstruct your trade depot with a caravan in it, all the caravan's items will drop to the ground, to be readily hauled away by your Dwarves. This does not mark the items as stolen, and the caravan will leave. However, ''next'' year's caravan is partly based on the profits from the previous year - so if you are relying on that race's caravans for needed items, you're hurting yourself in the long run.

Another way to steal without marking as stolen is to forbid the trade depot just before they leave, causing them to leave their goods at the depot.

If you're using the search plugin for [[Utility:DFHack|DFHack]] (e.g. from the [[Utility:Lazy Newb Pack|Lazy Newb Pack]]), be warned that {{K|s}} means "seize" and '''NOT''' "search", and there is '''no warning''' for it. Use {{K|q}} to search the merchant's goods and {{K|w}} to search yours.

Note that the civilization attached to a particular caravan will keep track of the value of items the caravan was carrying when they set out to trade, and they will compare this value with the value of items they return home with. Regardless of what method you use to confiscate items from a caravan, even if you came to possess the goods through no fault of your own (an [[ambush]] killed the traders and guards, for example) the parent civilization may decide that you stole from them and send a [[siege]] instead of a caravan the following year. It is prudent to take measures to protect caravans visiting your lands!

==Offering items==

{{key|o}} You can also give away items, as gifts to the leaders of the [[civilization]] you are trading with. This presumably helps relations between yourself and the other faction, though there is not yet a clear correlation between the value of the offerings and the improvement to relations. The exact effects of offerings on trading are unknown but it is believed due to the offerings' net trade value being counted towards the traders' profit, possibly with a modifier (possibly a multiplier of more than 1 as a bonus or less than 1 to compensate for the improved relations){{Verify}}, which in turn increases the quantity and variety of trade goods brought by next year's caravan. Also the [[King]] requires offerings to be made before his arrival. You cannot offer items that were not made at your fortress; the traders do not want your spare [[Goblinite]] clothes..

The value of an offering for the purpose of becoming the capital is adjusted by your current export agreement.

Unless you are looking for [[fun]], under no conditions should you offer or trade items which are wooden or used wood in their creation (clear glass, for example) to [[elves]], as this will insult the traders, and may cause them to leave or even damage relations enough to provoke a war between you and the elven civilization you traded with. They will accept their own "grown wood" items in trade without insult, however.

== Miscellaneous Trading Advice ==
* Thieves and thieving critters tend to follow caravans. Expect assaults and intruders.
* Create your trading depot inside your fort, preferably in the beginning. Place a 3-tile wide path (which must be free of obstructions such as stairways, traps, minecart tracks and boulders) to the entrance of the fort and position war dogs along it (chains do not block wagons); this will help to protect the traders and keep the depot close to your supplies.
* Avoid having multiple wagon paths to your depot. Caravan [[wagon]]s cannot move through each other, and if two wagons happen to meet at a fork they may become gridlocked against each other, resulting in the destruction of wagons and loss of trade opportunities.
* All caravans will bring extra food (meat and edible plants), wooden logs, and cloth/leather (for making clothes) if the supplies of your fortress are low enough, independent of whether or not you requested them. This does not apply in the case that the weight limit is exceeded by (other) items you requested. The supply situation, as observed by traders, is based solely on the number of unforbidden items in your fortress, stockpiled or not; thus, it is possible to trick caravans into thinking your supplies are low by [[forbid]]ding all of your relevant stocks immediately prior to their arrival.
**In order to '''avoid''' this behavior, you should make sure that, for each dwarf in your fortress, you have the following ''unforbidden'' items:
*** 5 pieces of food - meat, fish, plants, or "other" in your [[Status]] screen (even though "other" includes inedible items)
*** 1 wood log
*** 5 pieces of cloth, pieces of leather, or complete sets of [[wear|pristine]] clothing (shirt+pants+shoe)
* Define your trade depot as a burrow. When traders arrive, you can add your broker or another dwarf, perhaps one you want to train in trading, to the burrow. They will head to the depot immediately, and stay there until you remove them from the burrow.
* Each trade you make (regardless of value) will increase your trader's skills by 50, distributed among Comedian, Flatterer, Intimidator, Judge of Intent, Negotiator, and Persuader. Each skill seems to gain around 5-15 experience points, but the sum will always be 50. The skill gain occurs as soon as the "t" button is pressed - if the offer is rejected, the dwarf will still gain 50 points. If the same offer is subsequently accepted, no additional skill will be gained.
* Selecting "only broker may trade" ensures that you will start negotiations with a decently-skilled trader, but also requires a significant wait while your broker makes his way to the depot (possibly months if he is "[[on break]]"). Selecting "anyone can trade" will result in a poorly-trained trader arriving immediately. Once your fortress is producing enough goods to buy out the caravan, waiting for your broker is unnecessary; allowing your commoners to trade spreads out the trading skill gains and eliminates the micromanagement of trying to get your broker to the depot in a timely manner.

== Caravans ==
Each friendly race will send a caravan per year, linked to one season, which is autumn for dwarves, summer for humans, spring for elves, and winter for goblins. It is rare for your civilization to be on peaceful terms with goblins, however. In the first year, only a dwarven caravan will arrive, although it will only arrive in late autumn, about a month later than in previous versions. Caravans will only show up if that race considers the fortress site accessible (as denoted on the embark screen), with the exception of dwarves, who always arrive unless they are [[extinct]].{{verify}} Caravans appear to enter the map from a random direction which does not coincide with the relative direction of the originating [[civilization]], and they may appear from different directions and z-levels each year. However, they will always arrive at a location with a wagon-navigable path to the Trade Depot when one is available. Caravans may leave without trading if it takes too long to reach the trade depot, or if they become spooked by wildlife or corpses. Caravans will embark on their journey back exactly one month after their arrival, whether they have succeeded in reaching the depot or not.

Note that if traders or their animals are prevented from leaving, they will eventually go [[insane]].

Also worth mention is the pathing behavior of the entire caravan. If one member of the caravan reaches an obstacle in their chosen path (i.e. a raised drawbridge that was lowered when they entered the map) the entire caravan will re-path, instead of encountering the obstacle one by one. This behavior can be useful when attempting to free "stuck" wagons--a trader on foot encountering a locked door will cause the stuck wagons to turn around and path to a different exit, if available.

==== [[Dwarves]] ====
:''"Greetings from the mountainhome. Your efforts are legend there. Let us trade!"''

The dwarven caravan:
* arrives in [[Calendar|autumn]].
* carries metal bars, [[leather]], weapons and armor, food and booze, and more. Dwarves alone may bring [[steel]] and steel goods. They can still bring steel (and steel goods) and [[pig iron]] bars even if they do not have access to [[iron]], but will not bring iron products.
* usually carries a selection of books that your civilization has access to. This can include books written in previous forts of yours within the same civilization.
* is heavily guarded.
* sends a liaison who will speak with the [[Expedition leader]], [[Mayor]], [[Baron]], [[Count]], or [[Duke]] to negotiate an import-export agreement (unless the [[Monarch]] is present).
* influences the number of immigrants received (if the caravan leaves intact).
* will not cause sieges when repeatedly destroyed or lost.
* is the only caravan to arrive during a fortress' first year.
* always arrives regardless of embark location unless the dwarven civilization is [[extinct]].
* cannot have its goods seized from the trade menu.
* may not arrive if your civilization lacks any notable figures.

==== [[elf|Elves]] ====
[[Image:Evil_elves.png|thumb|400px|A typical elven caravan.]]
:''"Greetings. We are enchanted by your more ethical works. We've come to trade."''

The elven caravan:
* arrives in the [[Calendar|spring]].
* carries [[cloth]], [[rope]]s, various above-ground seeds, [[plant]]s and their byproducts, [[log]]s, [[wood]]en goods & [[weapon]]s, clothing and [[armor]], and may carry tame exotic [[creature]]s.
* Is unguarded.
* does not accept some items in trade:

Elven traders do not like to be offered any tree byproducts unless they are "grown", which only elves can produce. Forbidden (dwarf-made) items include:

* [[Wood]]en items (including subterranean mushrooms such as [[tower-cap]]s)
* Items derived from wood - [[ash]] and [[charcoal]], as well as [[lye]], [[potash]], and [[pearlash]]
* Items made from clear and crystal [[glass]] (due to the [[pearlash]] used) - green glass appears to be perfectly acceptable
* Items [[decoration|decorated]] with any of the above materials
* [[Obsidian]] shortswords (since they have wooden handles)
* [[Soap]] (made with [[lye]])

Offering or trading forbidden items will cause the mood of the trader to drop rapidly, causing them to refuse to trade any more that season and leave immediately. Additionally you will be called uncouth, crude, and barbaric for not understanding their customs.

However, [[stone]] and [[metal]] items, even when [[charcoal]] is used in production, are acceptable (since the elves are unfamiliar with metalworking, and do not know that charcoal is used to make metal items). Items made from [[silk]] are acceptable, as are all non-wooden plant-derived products such as [[cloth]] and [[thread]]. Items made of bone (totems too), horn, shell or leather are acceptable, so are meat and fish. You can also transport your goods to the [[trade depot]] in a wooden [[bin]], as long as you do not try to sell the bin. Living animals are acceptable, as long as the [[cage]] or [[trap]] is not made of [[wood]].

Be especially careful with reselling decorated items from other caravans, as non-wood/glass items may have decorations of wood or clear/crystal glass. Note that items elven caravans sell ''can'' be resold to them, as the elves know that they were made in an elf-kosher way.

Because they do not utilize wagons, elven caravans have a much smaller weight limit than dwarven and human ones, making trading heavy items like furniture problematic.

:''"Once a beautiful tree, and now? It is a rude bauble, fit only for your kind."''

==== [[Human]]s ====
:''"Greetings. The craftsdwarfship of the dwarves is unparalleled. Let's make a deal!"''

The human caravan:
* arrives in [[Calendar|summer]].
* carries metal bars, sand, [[leather]], cloth, wood, food and booze, books, ropes, waterskins, quivers, backpacks, metal weapons and clothing and armor, cages and a few domestic animals.
* carries only large-sized clothing and armor, which is unusable by dwarves.
* is moderately guarded.

{{mod}}

==== [[Goblin]]s and [[Kobold]]s ====
A goblin caravan will only arrive if you mod the game, primarily because their entity lacks the [[entity token]]s needed to make use of pack animals and wagons. That, and the token {{token|BABYSNATCHER|e}} makes them hostile to all non-goblin civilizations. These same caveats apply to kobolds (whose {{token|UTTERANCES|c}} and {{token|ITEM_THIEF|e}} tags make them hostile to every civilization).

The goblin caravan:
*will arrive every season, four times per year
*unguarded
*brings mostly food and cloth
*does not send a liaison or a guild representative
*does not make import/export agreements

==== Modded [[civilization]]s ====
If you [[modding|add]] additional civilizations to the game, they may also send caravans to you. Apparently, up to 3 caravans can visit the fortress during the year: one from player's civ ([[dwarf|dwarven]] caravan in vanilla DF), one from civilization with [[Entity token#TREE_CAP_DIPLOMACY|[TREE_CAP_DIPLOMACY]]] ([[elf|elves]] in vanilla DF), and one from civilization without this [[entity token|token]] ([[human]]s in vanilla DF).

The following [[entity token]]s affect the appearance of the caravans:

* [[Entity token#COMMON_DOMESTIC_PACK|[COMMON_DOMESTIC_PACK]]] - Allows the civilization to use domestic pack animals. If an entity lacks pack animals, it will be unable to send caravans (showing as {{DFtext|No Trade|6:1}} at the [[embark]] screen), unless it has domesticated any suitable animal species.
* [[Entity token#COMMON_DOMESTIC_PULL|[COMMON_DOMESTIC_PULL]]] - The civilization will use [[wagon]]s, and the animals who pull them.
* [[Entity token#MERCHANT_BODYGUARDS|[MERCHANT_BODYGUARDS]]] - Caravan will be guarded by [[soldier]]s.

== Diplomats ==
[[Diplomat]]s may be sent by other civilizations to speak to your [[noble]] dwarves (and they ''will'' speak to those dwarves, even if they have to wait at their bedside in the hospital for months after the caravan has left). Diplomats generally appear on the map edge around the time that civilization's caravan would arrive. Meeting with a diplomat may allow you to request specific items for the next caravan to bring (at a premium price), take requests for production for the next caravan (for which the merchants will pay a premium), or sign a cease-fire to end hostilities.

Current trade agreements can be viewed through the Civilization menu ({{k|c}}). These trade agreements are cleared when a diplomat of the corresponding civilization enters the screen, so they are generally not accessible after the caravan has arrived.

In the event that your leader is replaced, killed, or taken by a [[strange mood]], the diplomat may decide to leave your fortress [[stymied|"unhappy"]].{{bug|576}} Curiously, this will '''not''' occur if your leader is otherwise unable to perform the "conduct meeting" task. You can currently lock a diplomat in a room and he will wait years to attend the meeting your noble is constantly conducting (and all subsequent diplomats appear to wait in line for the first to finish); this behavior is presumably a bug.{{bug|8947}}

An unhappy diplomat will naturally prevent you from creating trade agreements and ending hostilities. However, it is not currently known what other effects this has on relations with that civilization. Whether the diplomat successfully met with your leader or just gave up, a diplomat who has decided to leave but is prevented from reaching the map edge will eventually go [[insane]].

== Destruction ==
If caravans are destroyed (intentionally or unintentionally), the items may remain for use. Traders caught in a [[cave-in]] will flee as if they were attacked, but will leave all the items dropped by the caravan behind. Pack animals carrying items are affected just like a normal tamed [[mule]] and must be killed in the cave-in for them to drop items on the ground. It is however much more likely that the pack animals will only be stunned or rendered unconscious, and flee shortly after recovering from the hit.

While caravans can defend themselves, they don't like being ambushed. If a caravan becomes terrified by wildlife or horrified by corpses it will turn around and flee the map. Any event resulting in the death of any merchant or pack animal will also cause them to retreat and forget about trading with you for the season. Repeated caravan destruction (intentional or unintentional) will strain diplomatic relations and may result in a [[siege]].

Ambushing or seizing a caravan and letting a survivor escape seems to have a more detrimental effect than simply annihilating the whole caravan. (Presumably because you've left a witness to report what happened.)

== Caravan Delay ==
If a caravan has arrived at your trade depot and is unable to leave for about two months after they finished packing up their goods, the merchants and animals will go insane. This can result in a bunch of merchants attacking your dwarves, or just standing around moping until they starve to death. It is not known for certain if this hurts diplomatic relations, but most likely it's the same as any case where the entire caravan fails to return home.

If you have locked the caravan into your fortress to hold out against a siege, it's a good idea to station a squad of soldiers near the trade depot in case the merchants [[Insanity#Types|go berserk]]. You may also want to make the depot a restricted area to encourage civilians to go around it. Alternatively, you can design the trade depot using drawbridges, so that it can be sealed off from the rest of the fortress during a siege.

If you want the merchants to leave safely, you can build four or more tunnels to each corner of the map, connected to your fortress only by drawbridges. As long as there is no other way to enter and exit your fortress, invaders and merchants will both go towards any tunnel that you activate. You can lock the merchants into the trade depot, and then open a tunnel entrance on one side of the map to make the invaders head towards that tunnel. When they get close to it, you can close it, and then open the entrance on the other side of the map, and let the traders out of the depot. If your fortress and depot are in the middle of the map, this will give the traders quite a head-start to get away.

Merchants can leave the map from any map edge-- including underground and aboveground map edges. If an unobstructed path through your fortress reaches a cavern edge, then blocking all overland paths will cause the merchants to depart underground. This can be useful, if you're suffering a prolonged siege; it can also be dangerous, if your underground regions are less secure than your surface. While it requires more preparation, an elevated bridge to a map edge can also allow traders to depart in peace.

Caravan guards cannot be starved, dehydrated, or driven to insanity if prevented from leaving, their employers and animals will however.

If an large amount of items is sold / offered to the caravan, it may take a while to load it all, especially if you chose to keep your precious bins and traded your items individually.

== Bugs ==

*Caravans become terrified/horrified very easily, abandon their wagons, and flee. {{bug|7185}}
*Aggressive, untrainable creatures (captured goblins, for example) cannot be traded; when a dwarf attempts to move the caged animal to the Depot, the creature is set free.
*Wagons can occasionally become "stuck" on other wagons, walls, etc. Stuck wagons eventually deconstruct, leaving their merchandise behind. {{Bug|5687}}
*If a caravan attempts to leave in late Winter/early Spring, they may try to path over any large frozen body of water. If the water thaws while the caravan is on it, the caravan will become magically stuck in mid-air until either the water refreezes or a floor is built underneath it. At this point, if they are still alive, they will leave the map normally.
*When merchants leave with an animal, the merchants seem to be dragging their beast of burden instead of leading it. If the animal is incapacitated but not dead, the merchant will continue to walk at the same speed, dragging the unconscious beast
*If a merchant's chosen map edge exit is guarded by a hostile creature (including those on a [[restraint]]), the merchant will wander back and forth repeatedly and eventually go insane rather than path to an alternate exit.

== Loyalty cascade ==
{{main|Faction#Loyalty cascade|l1=Faction}}
If you order your military to kill merchants from your own civilization, a bizarre result of the way loyalty is handled makes the members of your military who attacked the traders become enemies of your civilization, but members of your fort's government (dwarves of this [[faction]] are referred to as ''separatists''). As enemies, they attack your other dwarves (''citizens''), but as members of the fort, they still follow orders. Allowing citizen militia dwarves to attack the separatists will give them opposite loyalties of the separatists, (i.e. loyal to civ, not to fort), or ''loyalists'', who do '''not''' follow orders. And then, if a separatist or loyalist kill a citizen, they become enemies of the civ '''and''' fort, making them ''Renegades'', who are essentially complete enemies of the citizens.

To prevent the cascade from spreading, order the original separatists away from the fortress and let them fight amongst themselves. If the results are renegades, it is okay to allow other dwarves to kill them (by stationing them nearby). If the results are separatists/loyalists, then you will need to separate them somehow.

== Exploits ==

*Deconstructing the Depot will cause merchants to leave your fortress and abandon any goods in the Depot because items are not available until the building is fully deconstructed. However any animals they had caged will still belong to the merchants and only become friendly, you won't actually own them. According to Toady One, this is actually working as intended, and is not really an exploit or bug: "...the reckoning comes when they return with lesser value, and it has the same negative effect (it'll be listed as a disaster rather than an intentional seizing -- the depot could be destroyed, for instance -- but it counts for the same value if I remember). The overall wording could be changed and the interaction could be deepened to recognize this or that, but it's working as intended."[http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/mantisbt/view.php?id=293#c8393]

*If you wait until the merchants leave the map, you can "claim" caged animals by linking a lever to the cage and opening it, the animals will be released in a tamed state. Check the {{k|u}}nit screen before releasing them; if the creatures still show as Merchant creatures, they will wander off the map when released; if they show as Tame creatures, they will stay once released.

*If you lock them in your fortress for a minute or two (real time), the merchants MAY drop items and leave behind pack animals (Both of which are yours for the taking!) Note: Results are not consistent.

Cheese maker

2017-02-22T20:09:01Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|20:09, 22 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Skill
| color = 6:0
| skill = Cheese Maker
| profession = [[Farmer]]
| job name = [[Cheese making]]
| workshop = [[Farmer's workshop]]
| tasks =
* Make cheese
| attributes =
* Strength
* Agility
* Endurance
* Analytical Ability
* Creativity
* Kinesthetic Sense
}}
{{av}}

'''Cheese maker''' is the skill associated with the '''cheese making''' [[labor]]. Cheese makers turn [[milk]] into [[cheese]] at the [[farmer's workshop]]. Since cheese does not have [[quality]] modifiers, a highly-[[skill]]ed cheese maker is <s>not particularly valuable</s> as valuable as a [[peasant]].

[[File:DF_Cheese.jpg|208px|thumb|left|A dwarf eating cheese]]
{{D for Dwarf}}
Legendary Cheese makers are known to players for their versatility. They are capable of skillfully baiting [[Trap design|traps]], exploring [[fun]]-filled [[caverns]], digging open [[Magma pool|magma pipes]], <s>meatshielding</s> bravely defending forts from the [[goblin]] horde, and even making cheese. Blessed are the cheesemakers.

{{Skills}}

Milker

2017-02-22T20:08:54Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Exceptional" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|20:08, 22 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Skill
| color = 6:0
| skill = Milker
| profession = [[Farmer]]
| job name = [[Milking]]
| tasks =
* {{k|m}} [[Milk]] Creature
| workshop =
* [[Farmer's workshop]]
| attributes =
* Strength
* Agility
* Endurance
* Kinesthetic Sense
}}
{{av}}

'''Milker''' is the skill associated with the '''milking''' [[labor]]. Milkers will [[milk]] creatures in a [[farmer's workshop]]. There are several milkable animals in-game, including [[cow|cows]], [[donkey|donkeys]], [[sheep]] and [[horse|horses]]. [[Milk]] is the ingredient for [[cheese]], which in turn can be used to make high-quality [[food]] at the [[kitchen]]

{{D for Dwarf}}
The exact procedure of milking is a prime example of co-evolution: The dwarf will first place a bucket in the workshop and then lead the cow to the bucket. He will then promptly leave and let the cow do her business. Once the cow is finished she gives a dwarf a whistle and is led back to her pasture, leaving behind a full bucket to be carried off.

{{skills}}

Wolf man

2017-02-22T19:31:13Z

Rriegs: Added quality rating "Tattered" using the rating script

{{Quality|Tattered|19:31, 22 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
}}
{{av}}
{{new in v0.42}}
{{creaturedesc}}

Wolfmen have a heightened sense of smell compared to humans and dwarves and in adventure mode are able to wear small sized armor.{{verify}}

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Wolf man

2017-02-22T19:30:26Z

Rriegs: Adjust text placement; add verify tag

{{Creaturelookup/0
}}
{{av}}
{{new in v0.42}}
{{creaturedesc}}

Wolfmen have a heightened sense of smell compared to humans and dwarves and in adventure mode are able to wear small sized armor.{{verify}}

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Creatures}}
{{Category|Animals}}

Werebeast

2017-02-16T20:58:53Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|20:58, 16 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

'''Werebeasts''' {{Tile|Ñ|6:0}} are [[night creature|night creatures]] that are procedurally created during worldgen. [[Deity|Deities]] may curse sentient creatures (including any animal man) to transform into an animal form on the night of a full moon. Sentient creatures bitten by werebeasts are cursed to become werebeasts themselves.{{cite forum|126618}}

Werebeasts may take the form of mammals or reptiles, ranging from the classic [[Wolf|werewolf]] to more exotic things like [[Giraffe|weregiraffes]], [[Lizard|werelizards]] or [[Gila monster|weregila monsters]].

The behaviour of vanilla werebeasts in worldgen (i.e. fleeing town upon being cursed and conducting raids from their new lair) appears to be caused by the cursed individual's beast form having the [NIGHT_CREATURE_HUNTER] tag; removal of this tag from a generated werebeast extracted from a world.dat file and jimmied into the standard raws caused those cursed to behave no differently from any other unnaturally-immortal individual.

==Werebeasts in Fortresses==
In some regions, the full moon will herald the attack of werebeasts upon your fortress (triggering a message similar to the one that is shown when a Megabeast attacks), or instead the unwilling transformation of your own citizens into their bestial forms. The cursed will attack anyone they can find for the duration of the full moon, spreading their affliction even further.
Werebeasts of the same species will cooperate with each other and not normally fight, but those of different species will treat each other no differently from enemies.

==Defending your fort against werebeasts==

If you have not established an early-detection defensive perimeter (see [[defense guide]] and note, werebeasts are [[trapavoid]]), it is quite likely that if a werebeast attacks, a dwarf will be attacked and bitten. The best defense against this is to keep civilians off the surface (unless they are inside high walls), and rely on warning systems to tell you when to trigger a [[Burrow#Civilian_Alerts|civilian alert]] and close your [[bridge|drawbridges]]. A werebeast retains its infectious form for only a few days, during the full moon. After that, it reverts to an ordinary humanoid form, and will typically flee.

Warning systems may include [[pasture]]d or [[restraint|restrained]] animals, or outdoor [[statue]]s. If you get notices of toppled statues with no visible cause, it's probable there is a werebeast nearby.

===Infection===
Werebeasts are dangerous opponents, perfectly capable of killing an unarmed dwarf with impunity, but as notification-worthy invaders go they aren't especially terrifying; a few dwarves with modest military training and gear should be able to handle them with few casualties, as will a single elite dwarf in quality steel gear. The real threat they pose, however, is in their bite. If a humanoid is bitten by a werebeast, and the bite tears fat, skin, or muscle, there is a risk that the said humanoid becomes infected. If infected, the humanoid will become a werebeast at the next full moon (see below for schedule). Scratches, bites that merely bruise or dent, and subsequent shaking attacks after a bite will not transmit the curse, and thus are merely as dangerous as any other such assault. Also, animals cannot become werebeasts.

There is no cure. To protect your other dwarves you should either keep the infected dwarf in an inaccessible pit so he does not infect your whole fortress, or if you do not want to take care of him, just kill him.

Infected dwarves will not die of old age{{Verify}} and do not need food and drink. Note that werebeasts can still drink, and the only reason they won't die from dehydration is because they change before they can die, healing wounds and removing thirst. They may go mad, however, so if you want to make him work (or use him for a [[stupid dwarf trick]]) you should try to keep him happy. This can be difficult because werebeasts will not sleep or eat, though they will drink if alcohol is available.

Or maybe you want something exceedingly more [[Fun]] instead? Try the following.

==Infecting your entire fort==

Yes, it is possible. Having only infected dwarves does not end your game.

'''Pros:'''
* Super-effective hospital service, your dwarves are fully healed once per month. No need for crutches or something.
* No need for food or drink, though you can keep alcohol around for happy thoughts and to avoid alcohol withdrawal
* No need for beds or bedrooms other than those for nobles
* When transformed, civilian dwarves are less vulnerable
* Dwarves will happily discard their old tattered clothing and pick up fresh clothes every month.
* Unhappy thoughts are less severe as the process of being bitten and biting others tends to make your dwarves very resilient to tragedy.
* Go for were-elephants or were-badgers for extra dwarven points
* Fun
'''Cons:'''
* Exceedingly difficult to set up, quite long as well
* May kill your most important dwarves
* When transformed, fortress activity grinds to a halt, and for a few days afterwards as civilians run around finding new clothing
* Werebeasts are building destroyers, so you'll constantly need to remake workshops and most furniture
* Trading is especially difficult
* <s>May</s> WILL cause issues with military when transformed : dwarf armor is too small for werebeasts, though they will hold onto their weapons and shields, and even quivers/bolts during transformation.
* May be exceedingly fun for [[Thought|dwarven]] [[Tantrum|sanity]]... but then again you ''were'' looking for fun in the first place

There are several ways to attempt to infect your whole fort, some with higher success rates than others. The trick is to have your uncursed dwarves be bitten but not die, and also to have your cursed dwarves survive any retribution.

One method is to equip a squad of dwarves with training weapons and send them to an isolated area with one or two of your werebeasts. Ideally the dwarves who get injured will back away while the others hold back the werebeast. In reality it can be hard to balance the battle, which leads to either the werebeast killing off the injured dwarves or being pummeled into submission without spreading his curse. The main problem is when an attack by either the werebeast or a dwarf happens at the moment of transformation, it is considered a dwarf on dwarf attack, which leads to a minor [[loyalty cascade]].

Another method is to simply lock a werebeast in a room with a civilian(s) and hope that the civilian survives long enough for the werebeast to turn back. This reduces (but does not eliminate) the chance of a loyalty cascade, because only the werebeast is attacking. The main problem is that werebeasts become legendary fighters/wrestlers very quickly and are more than capable of killing/fatally wounding half a dozen dwarves in a single transformation.

The most successful method discovered is to lock a werebeast in a room with civilians, but be sure the room is completely covered in cage traps. Many injuries inflicted by werebeasts can knock a dwarf unconscious due to pain or strangulation, and an unconscious dwarf will be trapped by a cage trap. In the cage, dwarves are free to recover from their wounds, safe from any further attacks. In addition, a dwarf who is released from a cage gets an enormous happiness boost that will help him cope with the loss of family and friends who were not so lucky. Further improvements to this technique, such as assigning the uncursed to squads with no uniform (or just a helmet) that replaces clothing in order to allow every bite to break the skin, have pushed successful conversion rates to near 50%. It is also recommended to release dwarves from their cages immediately (via constructing the cages and attaching them to a lever) to prevent insanity due to unhappiness.

==Werebeast Military==

A somewhat less drastic (though potentially even more [[fun]]) option is to start a Werebeast super-soldier breeding program. Some Werebeasts can hold and use weapons in Wereform, and whatever combat skills they have as dwarves also apply while transformed. Being infected gives dwarves a large increase to their physical attributes (which can still be increased further, unlike vampires), and they need not worry about being wounded in combat as long as they survive until their next transformation. Add to this the Wereform's large size of 80000 and inability to feel pain, which partially makes up for its lack of armor, and you end up with a potentially devastating military force, if you can manage to keep them from murdering each other and the rest of your fortress.

Were-soldiers are mostly useful when their Wereform is of the variety that can use weapons and preferrably also shields, which obviously requires hands of some sort. Weregophers for example can use either a shield or a one-handed weapon, but not both, and may even equip crossbows as well as quivers and bolts. It is unknown if dwarves in Wereform can wield weapons that are normally too large for them, such as pikes. If they cannot use weapons they may still be useful as soldiers if their Wereform is of the dangerous sort, for example in the case of werelions <s>and tigers and bears</s>.

Transformed military dwarves respect their stations, alerts and uniforms (when applicable) and ignore the civilian alert, but will still attack anything they regard as an enemy, such as their fellow dwarves or any destroyable buildings. They must therefore be kept away from the rest of the fortress with walls and bridges, as they will destroy any non-artifact doors. Note that as of 40.24 there is a nasty bug which lets sparring dwarves teleport through 1-tile walls, so make sure the walls to their prison are at least 2 tiles thick, and install two 1-tile bridges connected to one lever as a door. Bonus points if you also install a dump chute in the room to give them new weapons and booze. Designate a stockpile under the chute, set it to take from links only, disable bins and set it to allow booze, empty barrels, weapons, shields and possibly ammo. Supplying the were-soldiers with booze both keeps them happy and prevents them from wandering into your fortress to look for it. Be aware that they can and will jump out of a hole directly above them, so either make the chute at least 2 z-levels high and smooth the walls, or keep it firmly locked with a hatch cover.

Once their containment room has been built, add a piece of furniture, designate a large barracks from it and set them to train there. The were-soldiers will destroy the barracks while transformed unless it is an artifact, so wall it in after the room has been defined. Remember to use 2-tile thick walls because of the sparring bug above.

An important thing to remember is the following: If two or more transformed dwarves have any sort of active military order (either from an alert or direct orders), and can see each other at the moment they change ''back'' from Wereform, then they will instantly begin fighting to the death, causing a loyalty cascade. To avoid this, either train your were-soldiers alone in separate rooms (slower due to lack of sparring), or make sure to set their alert to Inactive and cancel all their orders before they change back to dwarves. Once they've changed back, they can be set to train or given orders again. If they do start fighting each other, canceling all their orders and setting them to Inactive will make them stop.

The soldiers will not train while transformed, but if they were sparring during the transformation they will continue to spar in wereform, which can be entertaining to watch. The combat log for sparring dwarves in wereform will be gray instead of the normal cyan.

==Transformation Dates==

There are exactly thirteen full moons in a Dwarven year, so werebeasts transform on exactly the same dates every year:

*25th granite (XX-01-25)
*23rd slate (XX-02-23)
*21st felsite (XX-03-21)
*19th hematite (XX-04-19)
*17th malachite (XX-05-17)
*15th galena (XX-06-15)
*13th limestone (XX-07-13)
*11th sandstone (XX-08-11)
*8th timber (XX-09-08)
*6th moonstone (XX-10-06)
*4th opal (XX-11-04)
*2nd obsidian (XX-12-02)
*28th obsidian (XX-12-28)

==Werebeasts in Adventure Mode==
In adventurer mode, werebeasts are usually found living in small lairs on the edges of civilization. Young adventurers will often be called upon to slay them, with instructions along the line of 'he assumes a bestial form' along with a description of what type of metal they are vulnerable to. However, as long as they are not visited on the night of their transformation, they are just common peasants, and can be dispatched easily. It would behoove these individuals to hide themselves among townsfolk, but what can ya do?

===Becoming a Werebeast===
To become a werebeast, you must either happen upon a werebeast in its beastly form or seek one out on the night of their transformation. It is recommended to wear no armor except for your head as only bites that break the skin will infect you with the were-virus. Once bitten, you will not transform immediately.

{{new in v0.42}}
'''As of v42''' : it is now additionally possible to become a werebeast by toppling statues in a temple or sanctuary. Walk up to the statue and topple it with {{K|u}} then {{K|a}}. Toppling a statue in this way will lead you to being cursed: the curse will be either Werebeast or [[DF2014:Vampire|Vampirism]]. Which curse you get appears to be randomly decided at the time you topple the statue (reloading the game and toppling it again has been confirmed to give the alternate curse.)

===Implications of being an adventuring Werebeast===
'''Pros:'''
*Every full moon all injuries are instantly healed.
*Big strength and agility boost.

'''Cons:'''
*Attacked if you visit any towns during your transformation.
*Having to re-equip yourself every transformation unless transformed size is similar enough to your race's size.
*If enemies are wielding weapons of a material your new form is weak against, damage taken can be devastating.

==Werebeast Characteristics==
All werebeasts are described as having glowing eyes of some random color, and are "crazed for blood and flesh" meaning they attack everything that is not their own race, including undead.

The transformation to a Werebeast seems to only affect physical attributes, mental attributes are not changed though the descriptions will be relative to the Wereform's average. A Werebeast never gets hungry, thirsty or drowsy, and will not drown when in Wereform. Werebeasts in Wereform are type 2 Building Destroyers, so doors and vertical bars will not contain them, however bridges or walls will.

When transforming to Wereform, all health regenerates, including missing limbs, and thirsty dwarves will have their thirst <s>replaced with bloodthirst</s> removed. The same happens when transforming back. Effects induced by insanity are not reversed, so berserking soldiers that transform will still not follow orders.

Infected dwarves are removed from any burrows when they transform, and cannot be burrowed while in Wereform. They will however still remember the civilian alert burrow, so issuing a civilian alert while a dwarf is transformed will send that dwarf straight to your <s>slaughterhouse</s> emergency room if they can path their way there.

If the Werebeast cannot use weapons in Wereform (i.e. no hands), only the natural abilities of the creature are available for combat. These abilities differ from creature to creature (Claws/Hooves/venomous Bite etc.), but only their bites cause the Werebeast curse to be transmitted. Werebeasts have been confirmed to have the ability to arrive at your fortress both armed and stealthed.

Dwarves that die in Wereform will not be available for burial and will not come back as ghosts, but you can engrave slabs for them. However, this seems to be fixed as of 0.43 and possibly before.

If you become a werebeast and transform in adventure mode, you can pick up your weapon and shield that were dropped in the transformation, but, seeing as almost all werebeasts seem to have minimum body size of about 80000, armor will become too [[Clothing#Size|small]] for you to fit in. Hauled items will also be dropped on Fast Travel.

Werebeasts also tend to change back into humanoid form at the worst moment, like when they are charging a group of axedwarves. Sometimes a werebeast's humanoid form is more dangerous than the werebeast form, most obviously for [[Serpent man|snake man]] werebeasts.

Even if the werebeast is dispatched while in animal form, werebeast kills are listed as being of the original race.

Baby werecreatures are neutral, and while you can order your military to kill them the order will not be followed.

{{D for Dwarf}}
Sometimes a werebeast arrives in humanoid form, and the game then announces the arrival of a normal, intelligent creature as if it was some terrible beast. The naked, confused creature usually runs away, probably scared by your dwarves' laughter.

{{Creatures}}

Giant king cobra

2017-02-15T19:04:52Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|19:04, 15 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Creaturelookup/0
|bone=10
|tooth=2
|meat=10
|scale=1
|skull=1
|brain=1
|kidney=2
|spleen=1
|sweetbread=1
|tripe=1
|liver=1
|intestine=2
|heart=1
|lung=2
|cartilage=1
|eye=2
|fat=3

|contrib=no}}
{{av}}
{{creaturedesc}}
This is one brutal cobra. It will dismember your dwarves, beware!

While almost 1/4 larger than the formidable grizzly, giant king cobras provide only slightly more meat than a pig; however, this doesn't affect their viability for a meat industry as their products are still worth 2x value, they have a considerable clutch size of 10-30 and are mature at birth, meaning that despite low returns per butcher after just a couple of generations you could potentially have a cobra-splosion. Their true value though lies more in their use as guard animals thanks to their incredibly powerful syndrome which causes complete full body paralysis. Despite being considerably less sturdy than bears due to both their long slender bodies and inability to be trained for war giant cobra's viability as a war animal far exceeds many mammals as they are also incredibly expendable due to maturing instantly and laying large amounts of eggs, while their lack of other limbs means they rely almost entirely on biting increasing the chance of inflicting their syndrome.
{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}

Tutorial:Powerplay Guide

2017-02-13T19:18:49Z

Rriegs: /* Crucial concepts: */ Remove stray newline

''This is a intermediate guide for Adventurer Mode. For a beginner's tutorial see the [[Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide]].
:''See [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] to quickly look up key commands.
:''Updated to DF 43.05. Work in progress!

This guide focuses on powerplay, that is, building the most powerful combat-oriented character and achieving goals that can be undoubtedly considered "winning the game of Dwarf Fortress". Yet, fun is prioritised so glitch/bug abuse to get an advantage will not be used. For the most part, it is tailored towards players with some adventure mode experience, as there will be no explanation of basic gameplay elements, such as Fast ['''T''']ravelling, ['''R''']emoving an item, ['''W''']earing an armour or ['''S''']tanding up. Also, it is assumed that readers are familiar with the Fortress mode to the point of being able to make at least Steel weapons/armor, as there will be no explanation on this part either.

However, this does not mean, that less experienced players will not benefit from this guide. All the combat mechanics, decisions and picks will be explained most thoroughly without missing any of the steps. As long as one is familiar with hotkeys, he/she is all set for reading this. And don't forget about spoilers!

=Generating the world=

[[File:Stq3w89lf.png|thumb|right|400px|Example of the well-balanced world for an adventure game]]

Use the following settings:

*'''World Size:''' Smaller
*'''History:''' Short
*'''Number of Civilizations:''' High
*'''Max. Number of Sites:''' High
*'''Number of Beasts:''' Medium (Default)
*'''Natural Savagery:''' Medium (Default)

While, technically, every world is suitable for adventure mode, any player looking for a decent game should start in a world, that has at least the following features:

*A tower
*2 or 3 Dark fortresses
*A vault

Optional features:

*A desert
*An island no more than 2 blocks away from mainland
*A maze

You can check whether your world has a certain feature by starting the said world in Legends mode. 

*'''"Smaller"''' world size drastically reduces updating times, shortens the distance you will have to travel on foot and makes it more likely to explore more of the world. Don't get confused - even at this degree the generated world is much bigger than you would think, and is more than enough for a lengthy game while still preserving the features from bigger worlds. 
*'''"Short"''' history setting will make the world 125 years old. This is done to ensure, that goblin settlements (a.k.a Dark Pits) are not too abundant. It also prevents a lot of takeover wars, so it is less likely to end up with dead civilization(s) or human towns populated by elves (or what's more likely, goblins). 
*'''"High"''' number of civilizations provides increased chances of Towers and Dark Fortresses appearing. Same applies to the "High" Number of Sites, only that it also influences the amount of creature lairs and encampments in the wild.

Number of beasts determines how many megabeasts will roam the world. It is affected by the world size (e.g. Smaller), so it is left at default value. Same applies to Natural Savagery and Mineral occurence.

'''IMPORTANT:''' After creating the desirable world, start a Dwarf Fortress mode game (preferably, at the 2-tiles-away island mentioned above) and play until you create the following masterwork or artifact weapons: Axe(steel/adam), Spear(steel,adam), War Hammer (silver/platinum). Optionally, capture a Forgotten Beast and have the weapons coated with its flesh-eating seizure-inducing paralyzing dust. Optionally, produce a masterwork Nether Cap shield, a couple of masterwork stacks of steel bolts and a suit of adamantine armor. Retire the fort afterwards.

You will return to your fort later on in the adventure mode game to reclaim the weapons for your character's use.

=Character Creation=

The character creation follows the same order as it appears in game: Race/Civ/Status ->Starting Attributes/Skills->Background->Appearance -> Mental attributes.

==Race and Civilization==

Human or Dwarf - there is a little difference besides the armour and clothing size, pick whatever you want. Some may argue, that dwarves have an advantage due to being able to wear better armour, made in player fortress. However, as I have realized (and you will realize too): later on masterwork armour is just as useful as standard quality. More on this will be explained in "Armour" section. As for the dwarven "Battle Trance" - this guide emphasizes on NOT finding yourself alone and surrounded most of the time, so it is negligible. Human will be used for this guide.

== Status ==

*'''Peasant:''' 15 attribute, 35 skill
*'''Hero:''' 35 attribute, 95 skill
*'''Demigod:''' 105 attribute, 161 skill

Peasant, Hero and Demigod look completely different, with demigod seemingly holding the most advantage. However, all three are mortal, and all three are capable of becoming unstoppable. The key difference is in starting stats/skills (with demigod beginning with most, Peasant with least) and stats cap (maximum attainable value).

Simply put, the higher the starting stat (e.g Strength), the higher it can be increased over the course of the game. Hence, demigods can have the highest stats in the end by simply having more to start with. Yet, even Peasant adventurer is capable of killing a Demon or Dragon in the endgame, so at the end of the day, all the status does '''is determine how easy and how fast your starting game will be.'''

"Hero" is suitable for most players. Pick Demigod for easier early game. For the purposes of this guide, "Peasant" will be used to demonstrate, that these instructions are applicable to every single status.

== Starting Attributes and Skills ==

===Body Attributes===

All these stats distributions will leave no points wasted.

'''Peasant:'''
*High Strength (20)
*High Agility (20)
*Very Low Recuperation (1)
*Very Low Disease Resistance (1)
*Very Low Creativity (1)
*Very Low Musicality (1)
*Very Low Empathy (1)
*Everything else: Average (5)

'''Hero:'''
*High Strength (20)
*Superior Agility (--)
*Very Low Recuperation (1)
*Very Low Disease Resistance (1)
*Very Low Creativity (1)
*Very Low Musicality (1)
*Very Low Empathy (1)
*Everything else: Average (5)

'''Demigod:'''
*High Strength (20)
*Superior Agility (--)
*Superior Memory (--)
*High Intuition (20)
*Very Low Recuperation (1)
*Very Low Disease Resistance (1)
*Very Low Creativity (1)
*Very Low Musicality (1)
*Very Low Empathy (1)
*Everything else: Average (5)

Since your character is combat-based, attributes such as Creativity, Empathy and Musicality are absolutely useless, and must be kept low. As for recuperation and disease resistance, they only kick in when you're hurt, and if there is something that I stress in this guide it is "DON'T get hit". This renders those stats useless. '''Agility and Strength''' are the MOST important as they affect move speed of the character, and that really matters. Memory is convenient addition, as it lets you memorize the areas you've been to and keep those areas free from fog of war. However, leave it at average unless playing as a demigod.

The concept of pain was revised in 43.05, with thresholds significantly buffed for most creatures. Now a high willpower/toughness can, and will prevent your adventurer(and enemy alike) from passing out due to broken toe. Investing starting points in those stats is still a waste, however, as they are leveled relatively quickly, and do not need to be "Superior" or "Superhuman" to be effective. Endurance can be increased easily by sprinting or swimming. And while it matters at first, later on your character will have unlimited stamina, so don't put anything above average here. With average Social Awareness you can recruit two companions, increasing your fighting skills and kill list will let you recruit more later. Seeing as it is very tedious to manage 3 and above companions (you have to give out orders one by one), this attribute is better left at average (more on Social Awareness will be explained in "Companions" section).

Finally, Intuition lets you see more detailed information on which part of your body the enemy is targeting. It is quickly leveled through any means of close combat, and hence, should be kept on average unless you play as demigod.

===Starting skills===
All the distributions below have 1 to 4 leftover points. This is nothing to worry about, as skills can be easily improved and have no cap.

Peasant:
*Adequate Swimmer (7)
*Competent dodger (8)
*Novice reader (6)

Hero:
*Competent Swimmer (8)
*Expert dodger (13)
*Novice reader (6)

Demigod:
*Skilled Swimmer (9)
*Master dodger (17)
*Novice reader (6)

Dodge skill is a must take at character creation, as it is one of the skills that cannot be leveled without putting yourself in a harm's way. Same goes for Swimming. Any weapon skills are trainable in absolute safety, as will be described in section "Improving your skills". Reading, on the other hand, cannot be improved during regular play, and is only available for learning at starting skill selection screen, and must be taken in order to read books, containing the secrets of Life and Death. Novice level reading skill allows you to read anything, there is no point in increasing it further.

===Background and Gender===

It is advised to start as a hearth-person, since your character will begin inside of the human fortress, close to weapons and armor stockpiles. Gender and deity worshiped are insignificant beyond aesthetics and roleplay. Of course, when building a killing machine of a character you'd most likely want him to worship a deity of war (or similar).

===Appearance===

Visual facial features (e.g long hair, lobed ears, etc.) bear little significance, and are there just for show. The constitution is what really matters - your character might be described as "tall", "having a broad body" or "corpulent/fat/having great sacks of lard" (common when starting as a peasant). Fat does not slow down, and will be burnt away as your character does anything that involves sweating (sprinting or fighting to name a few). Broad body allows wielding of 2-handed weapons in one hand.

However, avoid "tall" or "having a broad body" traits. In my experience, adventurers with these tend to get hit more often than ones with an average build, and two-handed weapons are slow to ever use anyway. Press "r" or "f" to re-roll your character's appearance until it becomes to your liking.

===Values and Personality===

In DF2016, adventure mode now have implemented a complex personality system akin to that of fortress mode. All those perks and traits that you've seen in Fortress mode (e.g. "He is prone to anger") are now present. This means your character will now have desires that need satisfying ''besides'' eating or sleeping. Just as fortress mode units do, adventurers will now want think abstractly, need to socialize, desire to pray to deity, e.t.c , all according to their (fully customizable) values and emotions (represented in green and teal respectively at character creation screen).
[[File:jhbg.png|thumb|right|200px|Values]]
[[File:afgew.png|thumb|right|200px|Emotions]]

Though it is not necessary no satisfy the aforementioned needs, meeting most of them applies the "Focused" status. According to my tests, focused character will hit the target more often and dodge with increased effectiveness, so it is definitely worth the effort.

Moreover, your character will have his own dream listed, based on the values you have specified. It is unknown at the moment what benefit fulfilling the dream will provide. Dreams can be easily changed (rerolled) by simply pressing full customization "f" key, then immediately pressing it again.

Your warlike adventurer naturally values (+++) power, martial prowess, skill, cunning, truth, independence, stoicism, self-control, craftsmanship, competition, perseverance and knowledge. At the same time, he despises (---) nature, romance and peace while being indifferent (N/A) to everything else. He dreams of ruling the world (or becoming a legendary warrior).

On the emotional plane, he never falls in love or lust, hates easily though not prone to anger, never gives in to feeling of sadness or anxiety, impervious to stress, has calm demeanor, strives for perfection, likes fighting, cruel, relentless, private to the point of paranoia and fears nothing.

The above values and emotions will provide your character with the following mindset:

[[File:ytgvjb.png|thumb|center|600px|]]

As seen in the above image, your warmongering adventurer will have strong desire for crafting, training, practicing, learning, and an insatiable thirst for battle, while barely requiring anything else. This is where the advantage of picking the values and emotions according to the instructions above start to show up: fighting anything will simultaneously satisfy four major needs (training,earning,battling,practicing)while crafting can be easily fulfilled by knapping (making sharp rock). More on satisfying the needs and getting the "Focused" status will be explained in the "Needs and Focus" section.

Take into account, that you will not be able to EVER see this description (except list of needs) again during the regular gameplay. It is only available during character creation stage, so it is in your interests to make a screenshot and save it.

===Finalizing the character===

Values and personality screen is the last obstacle, that separates you from starting the game. Press Enter to begin the adventure.

=Early Game=

If you have followed all the instructions so far, you character will begin inside the human fortress. His/her starting items will depend on civilization you've chosen, however, all adventurers start with:

*A large copper dagger
*A copper spear
*A waterskin with 3 units of water
*A backpack
*5 units of random foodstuffs

==Immediate actions==

The moment you spawn in the world, the following must be carried out immediately: ['''R''']emove your starting waterskin and ['''D''']rop it. I cannot stress this enough - it is absolutely, astonishingly useless, being able to fit only 3 units of water when your character needs to drink every 2-3 hours. Next, look around for soldiers of the fortress and recruit one of them as a companion. Afterwards, search around the fortress and pick up the following items:

*Any 2 bags (chuck out anything that might have been inside)
*Full set of armor (Helm, mail shirt, breastplate, gauntlets, greaves, high boots, shield/buckler. These can be of any material for the time being.
*An axe and a warhammer. These can be of any material or 2-handed for the time being. If there are training versions of axe or spear, take those as well.
*A pike and a whip/scourge (optionally, if there are any available)
*5-10 copper or silver bolts

Some fortresses might be under-stocked and lack some items from this list. In this case, fast travel to another fort and search again.
[[File:berrybag.png|thumb|right|200px|Berry bags are common in human villages]]
After you got your gear together, equip the armor and a spear (without shield). Travel to the nearest river and fill (I) one of your empty bags with water. This will result in a container with 100 water units - more than enough for a long journey, even though you will be amazed how fast it will disappear.

To follow up, go in the nearby village and search in the peasants' houses for fisher/prickle berry/strawberry bags. All human civs start with fisher berries, so a village is guaranteed to have some. Usually, these bags contain multiple stacks of 20 to 100 berries. As soon as you've found one, drop your starting [5]stack food and pick the largest stack of berries. [P]ut it inside of your second bag.

Your inventory should look similar to what is shown on the image below:
[[File:Startinginv.png|thumb|center|600px|All set, with a lucky find!]]

Now you are armored and armed, alongside a companion with plenty of food and drink. While still quite far from being combat-worthy, your character is now ready for initial combat training.

==Training==

At this stage, you are going to train your character's offensive and defensive skills. Even though they can be trained in any order, I suggest that you learn how to defend yourself first. However, it is completely up to you, and whatever training "facilities" you might have. When training, ask your companion to wait nearby at a distance he/she will not notice you fighting. This way, you will have a backup handy if something comes your way.

NOTE: Instructions that follow include a lot of tedious button presses. To make your training experience more comfortable, it is advised that you install the amazing key shortcut tool "AutoHotkey", available free of charge. It is a wonderful utility, that will make a lengthy combination into a matter of a single key press, which counts when typing Aa*gzua repeated 30 times, for example. Quickstart guide for AutoHotkey (along with an example script) can be found under "Tools" section. I personally do not consider this cheating in any way - it is a simple timesaver. By sticking to "hardcore style" button mashing you are not raising the challenge - you're introducing a handicap.

===Defensive training===

Defensive skill tree is comprised of Dodging and Shield user. These two are crucial to survival, they protect better than any armor, as both completely nullify ANY incoming damage, while armor does not. Armor user skill simply reduces speed penalty associated with wearing armor and is considered quasi-defensive.

*Any attack except breath/webs/dust attacks can be dodged. On a successful dodge all damage is nullified.
*Any attack except dust/webs/wrestling grabs can be blocked. On a successful block all damage is nullified.

A punch from a bronze colossus that can turn any armored human into paste is rendered completely harmless when blocked or dodged. Considering that around middle stages of the game you will encounter enemies much more fearsome than colossus makes Dodging and Shield User invaluable.

'''Method:'''
*1.Find a small animal
*2.Grab it
*3.Let it attack you
*4.Train

'''Explanation:'''

Make sure you have a weapon and a shield drawn. Prepare by placing your weapon in a backpack, then remove the said backpack and drop it somewhere you can remember. This will free you of unnecessary load.
Begin by finding a small animal - cavies make a good choice, so do ducks, peacocks, turkeys, etc. Catch up to the said animal and grab it with your free hand. Now, simply spam the "Wait 10 ticks" button [.] and you will gain dodging/armor user/shield user experience as an animal you're holding attacks you. To gain shield user experience faster, manually block the incoming attacks with the shield.

If the animal you were holding passes out from exhaustion, simply wait, then repeat the above routine. Repeat until Legendary in all three skills.

Be aware, though, that even though your "animal training companion" is small, even a cat or a duck possess enough force to scratch the teeth out or stun with a well placed bite to the head, right through the helmet! Make sure your character is not tired prior to training.

*AUTOHOTKEY: Using '''1::Send, .''' script will let you hold down [1] to continuously wait, instead of spamming the [.] dot button
*AUTOHOTKEY: Using '''2::Send, Aca''' script will make you instantly block an attack with your shield the moment you press [2]. Combined with [.], you can spam these two keys one after another to level Shield User very quickly.

===Offensive training===

Every skill that directly that harms the enemy is a part of Offensive skill tree. This includes: any weapon mastery, Improvised weapons skill (misc. object user), wrestling and throwing.
Majority of your targets will be dispatched with weapon strikes, some with unarmed strikes and wrestling and in certain cases, by having a heavy/sharp object flung at them. Hence, your character must learn to handle 3 weapon types (at least), punching/kicking, wrestling and throwing. Optionally, misc. object user is recommended, as this skill determines the hit rate (and damage) when bashing with the shield.

By this time, you should have the gear as instructed earlier in "Immediate Actions" section. Make no mistake, ensure you have all the necessary equipment!

'''Method:'''

*1.Find a horse
*2.Knock it unconscious
*3.Blind it
*4.Wait for it to regain consciousness
*5.Train

'''Explanation:'''
[[File:pastures.png|thumb|right|200px|Fast travel map with pastures highlighted]]'''
*Similar to the defensive training, you will have to find an "animal training companion" first. Any human village has special "Pasture"''' areas around it. They are distinctively marked as green squares on the fast travel map. Roam around these until you find some with cattle present. Horses make one of the best animals to train your weapon skills on, as they are common around pastures and can take a lot of damage. Sometimes, there will be llamas or cows present - those suffice as well.

*As you have found a pasture spot with animals, memorize its location on the fast travel map. Remove your backpack and drop it there - it will be your training location for quite some time.
Next, take out the axe or a spear you have. Enter the [S]neaking mode and approach a horse. Use [A]ttacking menu and look for an Easy/Solid strike on legs/tail of the horse. You might have to approach it from multiple sides to find one. As soon as you have found an opening, stab the horse in the leg. If your strike connects, the horse will now have reduced movespeed, allowing to easily pursue it and stab another leg to bring horse to the ground.

[[File:geld.png|thumb|right|200px|Sometimes even wooden weapons are dangerous]]
*From now on, you have to disable the horse, so it cannot move or attack (when enraged). Enraged horse will make a quick work of inexperienced adventurer, often biting or wrestling(!) the unfortunate to death by breaking all the bones. Hence, proceed to bashing both of its eyes with the shaft (or flat of the axe), then punch the teeth out. Finally,chop off all hooves. Wait around until horse regains consciousness if it passed out. Use ['''S''']neak mode to confirm, that the it has been blinded - if the usual cone of vision is not shown, it has. Blind animal cannot see you (obviously), and it does run away from what it cannot see. Also, it stops the horse from attacking you when enraged, but ONLY when you are '''not standing on the same tile as the enraged horse'''.

*After all of the above has been done, you will have a blind, immobile but resilient live training dummy to practice weapon skills on. Target its lower body to reduce the chance of lung damage and suffocation. Wooden weapons are perfect, as they do little to no harm. If you have no training weapons, use less lethal attacks, such as '''"Slap flat"''' for axe or '''"Shaft bash"''' for spear.

In the same manner, '''target the hooves to level punching and kicking''' without risk of killing the horse prematurely, as all punches and kicks will glance off. Wrestling is skilled by grabbing/releasing or pinching, and '''unlike other combat skills, your training dummy doesn't have to be conscious!''' So you can as well practice your chokeholds and locks on a knocked-out horse.

*Warhammer training is a bit tricky, as there are no training versions, and the weapon itself has only one attack (bash), which is deadly. A solution is to repeatedly bash the eye or mouth of your training dummy - doing so will provide experience without killing you "training companion", and it works with all other weapons too. Sometimes, your character might accidentally hit the horse's head when targeting the eye due to lack of skill. If the outcome is lethal, simply make another horse into the training dummy and repeat. '''Horses do respawn at pastures''' when you wait, sleep or leave the area in fast travel. This means, if you accidentally happened to kill all the animals, simply leave and return for a new batch.

'''Throwing''' experience doesn't require a training dummy and can be gained by throwing dirt or small stones. It's an essential skill that MUST be at legendary. Find a square that has "Small Rock" available in the [G]et menu, then use AutoHotkey to pick up stones and [T]hrow them instantly:

*AUTOHOTKEY: Use (w/o quotes) "3::Send, g<letter of stone pickup>" to pick the stone up
*AUTOHOTKEY: Use (w/o quotes) "4::Send,t<letter of stone in your inventory>{Up}{Enter}" to throw the stone north.
*AUTOHOTKEY: Use (w/o quotes) "5::Send, Aaba" to repeatedly attack lower body with whatever you have equipped in your right hand

===Finalizing the training===

Repeat the process until legendary in all necessary skills (Dodging, Shield user, Armor user, Axe, Spear, Warhammer, Wrestling, Striking, Kicking, Throwing). Additionally, you will end up with legendary Fighter skill as well as greatly increased strength, agility, endurance and focus.

At this point, you have the gear, body and skills to shift the battle scales heavily in your favor. Now, it is necessary to apply them effectively.

==Crucial concepts:==
'''Recovery Time''' - the amount of time a character is effectively shut down after any combat action (striking, shooting, wrestling, throwing, blocking, dodging). Needless to say, it leaves you completely at the mercy of the opponent, and must be minimized at all costs. Ranged weapons (bows, crossbows) have HUGE recovery time after firing, so avoid like plague. Any and all entities capable of attacking have recovery time associated, which can be used against them.

'''Quick wait''' - the [,] key. Waits for one tick, as opposed to normal wait [.], that takes 10 ticks. Allows you to better manage the timings of battle against fast opponents.

'''Enrage''' - sometimes a combatant might become enraged after getting hit (indicated by flashing red exclamation mark). This is equivalent to the berserking in fort mode, but not permanent. Any enraged creature will have its strength, pain threshold and resolve boosted, which removes any fear/shock status and sends it into relentless melee. You might find, that weaker foes who flee at the first signs of combat can be transformed into killing machines by Enrage, so avoid Enraged enemies if possible until they calm down.

Attack modes - Quick, Heavy, Wild, Precise, Charge and Multi-attack.[[File:Attack_types.png|thumb|right|200px|Attack modes]] Use quick mode whenever possible, as it greatly reduces recovery time.

2. "Flutter like butterfly, sting like a megabeast": Using the "multi-attack" [z] option in striking menu, you can strike on the move. After selecting the attack type, enter the [A]ttack menu again, then Dodge away from the target. This technique is invaluable when fighting a crowd or a dangerous opponent that is prone to charging. It also lets you hit one enemy while simultaneously evading attack from another.

'''Charging''' - Charging is simply running up to the opponent and ramming with your weight. A successful charge will stun the target and knock it down, but only if the size of charger is larger, or equal than that of a charged.

===Weapons===

In brief: your core weapons of choice must invariably be Spear, Axe and Warhammer.

====Weapons you must have====

Any adventurer worth his dwarfbuck MUST master '''Spear, Axe and Warhammer'''. All creatures in the game can be killed by at least one of these weapons.

'''Spear'''

*Best vs: Wild animals, organic megabeasts, organic humanoids
*Worst vs: inorganic enemies

High armor and tissue penetration values, fast speed, widespread availability. Stab attacks are lethal to any organic enemy: be it goblin or a dragon, a pieced brain is a sure death. It is a weapon of choice of the beasthunter and demonslayer alike, a first weapon of choice for fighting huge organic enemies (except blobs). Against humanoids, it is capable of piercing breastplates and chipping bones, which leads to unconsciousness due to pain (that is an instant death sentence). Stabs against armor or enemy made out of superior material (e.g. copper spear vs steel) glance off harmlessly most of the time, so material is crucial to the performance of the spear. It also tends to get stuck in the body of the target quite often.

However, spear is ineffective against targets with little or no vital organs (i.e. blobs, sponges) and is useless against inorganic enemies (i.e. made out of stone, metal, glass), as those have no organs whatsoever. For those situations, use the next weapon on the list, the axe.

'''Axe'''
*Best vs: Wild animals, humanoids, night creatures, undead, inorganic enemies.
*Worst vs: Large animals, Megabeasts or enemies of comparable size.

A truly universal weapon, axe is amazingly effective against most foes, organic or not. The ultimate strength of the "hack" attack comes in ability to incapacitate and kill targets immune to pain or organ damage, lop off limbs and even cleave entire bodies asunder. A swift hack to the feet will bring down kobold and bronze colossus alike, creating an opening for a strike to the head. The best weapons against zombies, axe also has a "slap flat" blunt crushing attack to finish a grounded zombie off without switching to the warhammer. As with the spear, material axe is made out of is crucial to its performance.

Otherwise, effectiveness of the axe diminishes as the target's size increases. Against large animals (such as rhino or elephant) hacking only cuts fat/skin/muscle without doing the lethal damage. Limbs of huge enemies are much thicker, and hence are much harder to chop off, often requiring 10 or more strikes. Against armored or clothed gigantic targets (i.e demons) axe is worthless. Use the spear should you encounter these.

'''Warhammer'''

*Best vs: Humanoids and armored targets.
*Worst vs: Inorganic large creatures.

Unanimously considered the deadliest weapon against humanoids, warhammer became even more viable choice with introduction of body parts pulping (crushing) (and bleeding from pulping). Your adversary might wear a full artifact adamantine armor set, and it will not save him from having bones broken right through it by the "bash" attack. Warhammer ignores any and all armor foes might wear. Additionally, the pulping damage stacks, so with some patience, it is possible to maul even the megabeasts (organic) to death. Warhammer is also the easiest weapon to make, with copper being one of the best materials for its production due to its density.

Unfortunately, hammer suffers from the same problem as battle axe - reduced combat yields against large targets. Also, attacks will glance off inorganic enemies made out of high-grade materials (e.g. steel colossus).

====Optional weapons====

'''Pike'''

*Best vs: Wild animals, organic megabeasts, humanoids.
*Worst vs: Inorganic enemies

Basically, a buffed spear on steroids. pike has even greater penetration value, meaning it pierces armour and thick tissues like paper. Undoubtedly the best weapon against large animals (elephant, rhino, hippo) and a good pick against organic megabeasts. However, as any 2handed weapon it is slower than spear, meaning your enemy might sneak in an attack before you do, which limits its use for predominantly hunting big game.

The biggest drawback of the pike is its inability to be manufactured by dwarves in fortress mode. This limits your selection to whatever you can find in the world. Though, with enough luck you might be able to come across masterwork iron pike, however, this is as good as it can get - steel (and better) pikes are nonexistent in vanilla game.

If you happen to be born under a particularly lucky star, a moody dwarf can sometimes produce an artifact pike from whatever metals you might have in the fort, including adamantine. But if that is the case, what are you doing here? Get to those lottery tickets numbers pronto!

'''Whip and Scourge'''

*Best vs: Everything
*Worst vs: Nothing

Whip and Scourge are examples of one of the many bugs of Dwarf fortress. Basically, these act as blunt weapons, but have penetration values that of a lightsaber, being able to slice through any armor or thickness of flesh. A copper whip can chip a bone through steel, adamantine, demon skin and dragon scale. Altogether. It is also effective against inorganic enemies, chipping their body material and accumulating the damage that will eventually bring down anything.

In the preamble to this guide I have mentioned not abusing glitches, and this is one of them. Do not use these weapons if you are looking for a reasonable challenge. Though it can be argued, that whips are somewhat less effective against enemies immune to pain.

====ABSOLUTE BEST====

This is a list of the best weapons you can possibly have to give you something to aspire to. While some are impractically difficult to acquire, it is possible to manufacture them in fortress mode with creative resource management.

*'''AXE:''' Artifact quality adamantine battle axe, coated with paralyzing FB dust.
*'''SPEAR:''' Artifact quality adamantine spear, coated with paralyzing FB dust.
*'''WARHAMMER:''' Artifact quality platinum warhammer, coated with necrosis inducing FB dust.

====Weapons to avoid====

*'''Mace''' - warhammer is better in almost every aspect
*'''Sword''' - Lower penetration value than spear, less limb-hacking potential than axe and astonishingly useless slap attack, more fit to squishing mosquitoes.
*'''Most of 2h weapons''' - these are slower, and rod you of opportunity to use shield (which is huge). Broad body adventurers can use 2handed in just one hand, but in my experience, they also tend to get hit more often.
*'''Ranged weapons''' - Some weapons are simply least effective, some are plain bad, but none are actually as dangerous to '''their user''' as bow and crossbow get. After taking a shot (which, by the way, cannot be aimed at a particular body part), your character will be stuck in place for about 20-40 [[Time#Breakdown|ticks]], unable to move, fight or in fact, unable to do anything. Maybe it was implemented to simulate reloading, but in any case, it leaves you vulnerable, very vulnerable. To add insult to injury, ammunition is dreadfully heavy, with as much as 10 bolts enough to slow down "high" strength character. And 10 is rarely enough to bring anything substantial down. If you want a ranged attack, throw bolts/arrows instead.

===Sheathing===
The {{k|q}} key lets you strap your weapons to your back.

This is useful because you can't climb or wrestle with your hands unless your hands are free.

People will also be less likely to be scared of you on first sight if you don't appear to be ready to attack.

== Time and Weather ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|D}}
| Date
|-
| {{k|P}}
| Temperature
|-
| {{k|W}}
| Weather/Time
|}

The game has a day/night cycle with time passing as various actions take place.

When using quick travel mode, the top line of the screen will indicate the position of the sun in the sky with a yellow "☼"; further to the right of the screen is earlier in the day and further to the left is later in the day.

In local travel mode you'll have to use the {{k|W}} command to learn the position of the sun, when you're in a place where the sun is visible.

At night you won't be able to see nearly as well and you will be more vulnerable to ambush.

The game also has weather and temperature. The most common weather you'll experience is rain. Rain is shown as blue moving dots on the local travel screen and will unsurprisingly cause everything outside to become wet. Temperature is important because if it happens to drop below freezing while you're swimming through water, you'll instantly die from being encased in the ice.

Therefore you might want to keep an eye on the temperature while swimming, especially if it's getting cold.

Also, unlike fortress mode, rivers/other bodies of water can be liquid during the day, and freeze at night. The cycles of freezing can also be erratic from day to day.

Freezing weather can also freeze liquids in your inventory solid, making them undrinkable. If your water freezes and you are thirsty, make a campfire and {{k|I}}nteract with your waterskin to heat it over the fire and melt the ice.

== Sleep ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Z}}
| Sleep
|}

Eventually your character will become {{DFtext|Drowsy|1:0}} and this will get worse until you get sufficient sleep.

Sleep does not necessarily have to coincide with night, but if you're traveling alone when night comes you'll be in danger of being attacked by [[Bogeyman|Bogeymen]]. To avoid this while traveling solo you need to make it to shelter before nightfall and sleep the night away inside a building or abandoned lair. Enter a building, use {{K|k}} to talk to a human, and ask for permission to stay the night. Next press {{K|Z}} to sleep, {{K|d}} to sleep until dawn, then {{K|Enter}} to confirm. ('''NOTE''': If you stay the night in a castle, you have to sleep in the keep which houses the lord/lady of the castle. Sleeping inside the castle but outside the keep still leaves you vulnerable to attack.) Sleeping on an ocean beach also prevents bogeymen from attacking. (If you'd rather not deal with bogeymen, you can disable them by generating a world using [[advanced world generation]] and setting "Number of Night creatures" to 0)

Though sleeping inside can be safe, it's also limiting: any quest site you want to go to has to be within a daytime's round-trip time of a safe habitation, and you have to make your way to there by hopping from one habitation to the next, sleeping at each along the way. A way to avoid this is to travel with companions. If you have any companions with you then Bogeymen won't attack you. You'll still have to sleep at night, though, both to avoid sleep deprivation and because there's no visibility at night. You can still be ambushed at night by wildlife, but that's much less likely than being ambushed by Bogeymen when traveling alone. If you find yourself alone at night with nowhere safe to sleep, the safest bet is to keep traveling until dawn, even if that means running around in circles. You will eventually feel unwell from sleep deprivation, but this can take a considerable amount of time. You can make up for lost sleep once you've found your way to safety.

Note that sleeping in lairs, shrines, and labyrinths makes you safe from ambush, assuming that you or someone else has killed whatever was living there. If you have sufficient shrines/lairs/etc between you and your goal and they are either uninhabited or inhabited by things you are capable of killing then you can travel from lair to lair using each lair as a safe lodging. This is much safer than sleeping out in the open, day or night, even with companions.

If no other options are available, completely surrounding yourself with campfires will keep night marauders at bay as they cannot pass through the fires; the fires will go out after several hours and enable you to move on (you may also be able to jump over the fires). The bogeymen or other enemies may be outside your line of sight, which will prevent you from firing arrows or throwing things at them. In this case, you will have to stand up and lie down {{K|s}} repeatedly until the enemies wander into your range, the fires go out and the enemies can path to you, or dawn breaks.

It should be noted that, as of DF2014, climbing trees and sleeping on them will prevent Bogeyman attacks, as well. This is especially useful if you prefer to play solo, and do not wish to have an army of followers in your employ. This is also useful if you prefer to engage enemies at your own pace (such as via stealth), rather than having your entire follower party immediately charge at anything that is hostile to you. Be wary though, as bogeymen may still be able to reach you by climbing.

== Food and Drink ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|e}}
| Eat or drink something
|}

To find water, you must find a river, stream, or well in a town and fill your waterskin from it, or drink from it directly. Water that may be covering you or your items will not be able to satisfy your thirst.

Note that drinking vampire blood will turn you into a vampire instantly.

Make sure to eat or drink regularly even if you're not hungry or thirsty, as you can only eat or drink thrice at a time: after that you'll need to rest, or wait until you can consume another meal. If you find yourself in need of both food and hydration, make sure to take care of the most urgent problem first, as if you are moderately hungry but severely dehydrated and eat three times, you may die before you have another chance to drink.

If the temperature is low enough you might have trouble finding liquid water. Snow and ice can be heated into water by first making a campfire with {{k|g}} and then performing an advanced interaction with {{k|I}} on the ice or snow in your inventory to heat it. Advanced interactions with your waterskin can also be used to gather water from water sources, or snow from the ground.

== Combat ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|A}}
| Attack an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|f}}
| Fire a projectile
|-
| {{k|t}}
| Throw an item
|-
| {{k|C}}
| Open combat preferences interface
|}

[[Combat]] is the fine art of using physical force to cause injury and death, and it is particularly fun in Dwarf Fortress.

=== Melee Attacks ===

Hostile creatures can be attacked using a non-aimed attack by simply advancing towards your enemy using the arrow keys. Doing a non-aimed attack will also have a chance of freeing up any stuck weapon, though you are more likely to accomplish this by moving away from the enemy, or complexly interacting with the weapon.

Any creature can be attacked by standing next to it and pressing {{k|A}}. Attacking a friendly or unconscious creature (which includes wild animals for elves) will further require a confirmation, given using {{k|alt}}+{{k|y}}.

After selecting (and maybe confirming) which creature you want to attack, {{k|a}} will allow you to make an '''aimed attack'''. You must first select the body part that you want to attack. Look at the difficulty rating for various possible attacks. Impossible attacks will be impossible to land and Easier attacks will be very easy to land. The difficulty rating for an attack does not change depending on your weapon skill. Based on player experiences, a Grand Master weapon user can almost always land a "Tricky" strike, while a Novice generally cannot. Attacks on various locations will also have limits on how "squarely" they can land (due to being out of reach, for example). Square and very square attacks will deal more damage.{{Verify}} Attacks which "can't land squarely" are generally still effective.

Attacks aimed at the head are the most effective; a single attack to the cranium with a weapon will usually put an end to the fight. Aimed attacks are especially useful for dismembering opponents. Opponents who are missing a foot will fall over, thereby greatly lowering their speed, and giving you an immediate edge in the fight. Cutting off both hands also highly recommended for obvious reasons. After all, a field full of armless, one-legged enemies can be a big experience booster for your companions.

Aimed attacks are also especially helpful when fighting giant beasts. Some enemies like giant desert scorpions have lots of redundant body parts, and random attacks waste valuable time on low priority areas while the scorpion is busy injecting venom into the whole party. Lastly, aimed attacks allow you to grab trophies that are not available via butchering. For example, a minotaur's horns can be cut off during a fight, but since its a humanoid, most adventurers will refuse to butcher its corpse after the fight. However, in Dwarf Fortress 2014, all butcherable corpses are able to be butchered, as long as the corpse isn't too mangled.

There are several options below the hitting menu. Quick attacks are faster than regular attacks but weaker. Heavy attacks are slower but attack harder. Wild attacks are faster and hit harder but are inaccurate. Precise attacks are very slow but are much more likely to hit. Multi-attacks allow you to attack several times in a row at a great cost to the effectiveness of any one of the chosen attacks.

=== Ranged Attacks ===

To attack with a ranged weapon press the {{k|f}} key with a ranged weapon (bow, crossbow, etc.) equipped on one hand and select the square where you want to attack. Note that you need to have some sort of ammo, corresponding to the type of ranged weapon you are using (for example, bows use arrows, crossbows use bolts). Otherwise, a message stating "You have nothing left to fire." is displayed in brown. Similarly use the {{k|t}} key to throw any random object in the same manner. Random objects appear to make a random attack if they happen to have more than one possible type.{{Verify}} For example, if you throw a sword it may hit with a blunt impact, a stabbing impact, or a slicing impact. Throwing crossbow bolts with sufficient throwing skill and strength seems to have an effect similar to firing them, although less powerful. On the plus side, you will never lose ammo if you throw it.

It is not possible to aim for specific body parts with ranged or thrown attacks.

Throwing is generally a good skill to have for any adventurer, as it allows you to slow down fleeing foes, both on the ground and in the air without the need of equipping a (cross)bow. Just like {{k|l}}ooking, you can use throwing to view and hit enemies multiple Z levels away from you. If you're lucky, you can simply land a hit that causes the flying enemy to give in to pain, and then let gravity do the rest of the work. Even if the fall doesn't kill them, they will most likely be stunned long enough for you to run up and slaughter them.

=== Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks ===

:''Main article: [[Wrestling]]''

'''[[Wrestling]]''' (grappling) can be performed by selecting an enemy via {{k|A}} followed by {{k|b}} to wrestle. You can wrestle any enemy. Wrestling works somewhat like a targeted attack. Once you grab a creature by some body part, you may be able to make another wrestling attempt that will allow you to perform a throw or takedown.

For a detailed list of moves such as takedowns, throws, choke holds, etc., see [[Wrestling]].

It's also possible to punch, kick, and bite. These are not in the wrestling menu but are performed like normal targeted attacks with {{k|A}}.

=== Weapons ===

[[Weapon]]s are basically divided into axe, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area.

=== Wounds ===

If you get wounded during combat, there's not much that you can do except perhaps run before you get more wounded. Your wounds will heal over time, so just travel around or sleep in a safe place. Some wounds however may never heal, leaving you permanently crippled. Obtaining a crutch may help with this. Or if you are not already a vampire, then you can get bitten by a werebeast during full moon, which will heal all injuries once per month.

If you have some bolts or arrows stuck in your body, they can be removed by using the complex interaction menu {{k|I}}. Select the stuck bolt or arrow from the list and then pull it out with {{k|a}} You'll probably start bleeding after you pull it out, but the bleeding is rarely anything to worry about.

=== Combat Preferences ===

At any time during gameplay (Except fast travel mode), you can press {{k|C}} to open the Combat Preferences menu. There are three different preferences you can set: Attack, Dodge and Charge Defense. These have a few different preferences each:

*'''{{k|a}}ttack'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - The default setting. When set to this, charging happens more or less frequently, depending on the difference in size between you and the opponent. Bigger opponents get charged less, smaller more often. Can be very risky, since a random charge against a huge opponent is likely to get you knocked down and stunned. In the same vein, charging when close to obstacles or other environmental hazards is very dangerous, potentially fatal, if the enemy dodges you.
**'''Strike''' - This setting ensures that you never charge an opponent, but rather just swing your weapon at them. This carries less risk than the above, but you're never going to knock anyone down without hitting their legs or spine. Very preferable against large opponents.
**'''Charge''' - When set to this, you ALWAYS charge. When faced with numerous small enemies (Bogeymen in particular), this can be extremely useful, but remember to switch back when facing something bigger. Charging a large dragon is almost a certain death sentence.
**'''Close Combat''' - With this setting, all your auto-attacks are grapples. Generally not very useful, since the random nature of it tends to prevent you from actually doing any damage with it, but if you continually auto-attack a harmless creature with it your wrestling-skill will be legendary in no time.

*'''{{k|d}}odge'''
**'''Move Around''' - This means you can jump away from attacks, physically moving in a random direction. While this lets you dodge attacks more often, it can also result in you jumping into a wall or down a lake. If you're fighting in really tight spaces, or areas with large pits, you might want to switch to the other option.
**'''Stand Ground''' - As can be expected, you stand your ground. No jumping around, which is useful in the above situation, but risky in the open. If you have room for jumping around, go with Move Around, but otherwise this could be a good idea.

*'''{{k|c}}harge Defense'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - Again, the default setting. You're more likely to stand still against small enemies charging, but will probably prefer moving away from larger ones. Somewhat risky, in that even a somewhat small enemy can stun you by charging.
**'''Dodge Away''' - With this, you'll dodge away from charging enemies, if you can. It's not a sure bet, but it's very much worth it against enemies who like to charge. This is probably the most preferable mode, since you're not losing a whole lot by dodging a small foe charging, but dodging an angry night beast can save you from a world of pain.
**'''Stand Ground''' - If you're certain of your physical superiority to the opponent, you can safely choose this. Standing your ground like a real man/woman might feel hardcore, but getting knocked down in a fight can be extremely dangerous. It probably has some use against bogeymen though, since they're quite small. If you really are much bigger than the enemy, you'll end up knocking THEM down. Most of the time though, charges heavily favor the attacker, so dodging away is probably preferable.

Using Combat Preferences properly can actually save your hide, so it's worth fiddling with. Just don't forget that you've fiddled with them, since a misplaced charge or dodge could end up killing you.

== Talking ==
[[File:Advmode_conversation_DF2014.png|thumb|400px|Talking to someone in Adventurer mode.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|k}}
| Talk to somebody
|}

Now that you know how to kill people, you may also want to know how to talk to and otherwise interact with them in a less violent manner. While this is less entertaining, it can sometimes be useful.

To begin a conversation, press {{k|k}}. Unless someone else has already started a conversation with you (see below if someone has), you will get a cyan X that can be positioned over people you want to talk to with the normal directional keys. Use {{k|-}} and {{k|+}} to select who you want to talk to. Aside from individuals, you can also {{DFtext|Shout out to everybody}}, which will have you talking with everyone in earshot, or you can talk to your deity.

Whenever you want to advance the conversation, you have to press {{k|k}} again and choose the ongoing conversation you wish to continue. You will also see ongoing conversations from people who have started a conversation with you. If you want to talk to someone else during this time, simply {{DFtext|Start a new conversation}}.

* {{DFtext|Greet listener}} — Has you offering a greeting to someone, when you're initiating the conversation.
* {{DFtext|Bypass greeting (new menu)}} — Skips the greeting, taking you straight to the normal conversation menus.
* {{DFtext|Reply to greeting}} — If you aren't the one who started the conversation, this option will let you reply to someone's greeting. They will then talk about some trouble.
* {{DFtext|Refuse conversation}} — Causes you to explicitly refuse to talk to someone who started a conversation with you. Unknown if this has a different effect from simply not doing anything.{{Verify}}
* {{DFtext|Reply to greeting (impersonation)}} — Like {{DFtext|Reply to greeting}}, except you're impersonating a deity.
* {{DFtext|Nevermind}} — This has you back out of having a conversation.

When you start talking to someone, you are presented with a wide array of things to talk about. (If the person you are talking to started the conversation and told you about some trouble, you'll first get a menu related to that trouble. Just press {{k|-}}-{{k|Enter}} to {{DFtext|Change the subject (new menu)}} and get to this first menu.) Your choices are as follows:

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
| style="text-align:right;width:30%;" | {{DFtext|Return to current topic (new menu)}}
| You'll see this option only if you chose to change the subject in another menu. This will, predictably, take you back to that subject.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Bring up specific incident or rumor (new menu)}}
| Allows you to spread rumors or summarize conflicts you've been a part of. The next step of the conversation will bring up a menu of choices that allow you to ask for directions to places or state your opinion on the incident/rumor.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Ask to become a hearthperson}}
| Only appears when talking to a leader who you aren't under the command of. Allows to become one the leader's guards.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Invite listener to become a hearthperson}}
| Only appears when you are a leader. Allows to become one the leader's guards.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Request duty or advice pertaining to service as a hearthperson}}
| Only appears when talking to a leader who are under the command of. You will receive some task to accomplish for the group, if there is anything that needs doing.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Bring up the journey together}}
| Only appears when talking to a companion. The next step of the conversation will allow you to cancel the agreement you made with that person, if you so choose.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Inquire about any troubles}}
| Asks the listener what things in the world are bothering them and their people.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Ask for directions (new menu)}}
| Allows you to ask for the location of a specific creature or site. People aren't guaranteed to know, and may instead direct you to someone who does.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Ask about the local ruler}}
| As you might imagine, this gets you some information on who controls this particular area.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Trade}}
| Allows you to trade with a merchant. Note that you have to be right next to them for this to work.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Exchange, give, or take personal items}}
| Like {{DFtext|Trade}}, only that it works with non-merchants.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Ask favor, place request, make demand or issue order (new menu)}}
| Takes to a menu of various request you can make, including asking the listener to yield, stay put, or pay homage to your group. The options available depends on who you're talking to.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Ask listener to join you (new menu)}}
| This is how you get companions. You can either ask them to join you on an adventure, or to lead you to some location.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Claim this site for yourself (group naming menu)}}
| This option allows you to stake a claim on the site you are in.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Ask for permission to stay a day}}
| Allows you to sleep in the listener's building for the night.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Ask about the structure you are in}}
| Tells you about whatever structure you are standing in, if you are standing in one.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Ask about this site's neighbors and trade partners}}
| Lets you learn what sites this site is neighboring and/or trading with.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Ask about the surrounding area}}
| Choosing this will tell you about some location nearby, and why it's significant.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Comment on weather}}
| Small talk about the weather. Really.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Comment on natural surroundings}}
| Same as the weather, only about the nature around you.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Accuse listener of being a night creature}}
| If chosen against a night creature, such as a vampire, it will expose them. Normal individuals will just think you're losing it.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Inquire about listener's profession}}
| Learn what it is the listener does. Useful for lords and ladies and anyone else whose profession isn't listed next to them.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Ask about listener's family}}
| Discover what family the listener has, as expected.
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Brag about your past violent acts}}
| Causes you to brag about whatever last violent act you did. Doesn't seem to have an effect, or at least severely less impactful than summarizing the conflict.{{Verify}}
|-
| style="text-align:right;" | {{DFtext|Say goodbye}}
| Ends the conversation.
|}

Note that you can press {{k|Esc}} to not choose anything. The conversation is still ongoing, you have to explicitly say goodbye to end it. Pressing {{k|Esc}} is useful if you need to double-check something before talking.

== Companions ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|c}}
| View companion interface
|}

Companions are the guys who follow you around after you've asked them to join you and they've accepted. Your character will have a limit on the maximum number of companions that is based on fame/reputation level and the ''Social Awareness'' attribute. With average social awareness and the maximum level of fame, the limit is 19 companions.

You can use the {{k|c}} key to open up a list showing your companions and their relative position to you. This can be useful if one of them runs off somewhere and you want to find them. You can select specific companions who are in visual range in order to view them. This is the same as viewing them with {{k|l}}ook.

You can give or take equipment with a companion by choosing to talk to them and selecting {{DFtext|Exchange, give or take personal items}}. An evil and arguably inefficient way to get equipment is to intentionally get your companions killed and then take their stuff. If you are trying to help your companions, it is important to note that they prefer to store exchanged items in a personal container rather than to equip said items. You must convince your companions to trade away any containers (pouches, quivers, backpacks, etc.) as well as the equipment that you are attempting to replace. Once you have given your companions almost no choice in the matter, they will equip the new items and a message like {{DFtext|The Swordsman reorganizes his possessions.|6:1}} will be displayed.

If they survive long enough/are trained well enough then companions are capable of leveling stats and skills. Thus they are susceptible to gaining a title or having a job title change as well.

Your companions will continue to follow you and fight hostile creatures around you until they die (if you asked them to join you on an adventure) or get you to the proper location (if you asked them to guide you some place). If you want to get rid of your companions at any time, the safe way is to talk to each one of them, ask them about their journey with you, and then cancel the agreement.

If your companions are too far away from you when you enter fast travel, they will become an asterisk on the map where you started fast travel from. This asterisk may try to join up with you during travel. If you keep losing your companions while traveling through rivers, try going to a spot where the river becomes a "minor river" (shown by a single dark blue line). Brooks are obviously also safe to cross.

== Personal Finance ==

=== Trading (barter) ===

In human towns (not hamlets or castles), you can find shops,in Elven Trading trees you can find markets and at depots in dwarven fortresses you can encounter brokers. Once you're inside of a [[shop]] and right next to any of the NPCs, you can use {{K|k}} to {{DFtext|Trade}} with them. Use {{K|Enter}} to select which items to trade, left/right arrow keys to switch between the list of shop items and your items, and up/down arrow keys to scroll through the lists. You can also either {{k|a}}sk for or {{k|o}}ffer currency as part of the process. Once done, press {{K|t}} to trade. The shopkeeper won't get angry if you're not offering enough in trade, so you can start offering just a few items, keep trying again with a little more until the trade is accepted. Once the trade is accepted all of the items you offered will be on the floor underneath you.

After trading, you will find the stuff you gave on the floor at your feet, and the stuff you got in your inventory.

=== Theft ===

You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store (indicated by dollar signs on either side of the item in your inventory), the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' move a considerable distance before allowing you to quick travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

In some cases, the shop will be abandoned. This will be made clear by the presence of unbought items and the lack of any merchants in the area. You will not be considered a thief by the relevant entity for taking stuff from an abandoned shop.

If the item name is not surrounded by dollar signs, it is never considered stealing, even in situations where it would be in real life.

=== Managing coins ===

You will find that coins from one civilization are nearly worthless in other civilizations. This will typically result in adventurers carrying around lots of now useless coins. Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones as well as sell all of your loot directly for gold coins. Remember, merchants will always try to pay you in higher denomination currency first but will resort to lower value coins if they run out of anything higher. First, check the merchant's chest to see how much of each type of coins they have.

Coin values are as follows:
* Copper Coin = 1☼
* Silver Coin = 5☼
* Gold Coin = 15☼

To receive the maximum amount of gold coins from that merchant, make sure the amount "they owe you" during the trade is equal to (total amount of gold coins the shop has)*15☼ . If you are selling loot, simply make sure you only trade this worth of goods, and move on to other merchants for the rest. If you wish to exchange copper and silver coins for gold, buy random goods from the merchant until their price is around this value and then sell back all of the goods for their original value but in gold.

Alternatively, you can take your excess coinage and use it to purchase [[Gem|large gems]] at a trinket shop. Large gems make good investments because they are 1) light, 2) variably priced, and 3) equally valuable between different civilizations.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most notably giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves or goblins for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world - please harvest responsibly.

=== Where to get items to sell ===

The best place to get items to sell is at bandit camps, after you've slaughtered all the bandits. You can loot the clothes and equipment off of the corpses of the bandits (and off your fallen companions, too), plus at the very center of camp there'll be a few scattered weapons and a few bags/chests containing various goods.

The next best way to get items to sell is to kill a creature, butcher their corpse (see below for how), and pick up the edible bits. Butchered bits from the corpses of people (dwarves, elves, humans, etc.) can sometimes be found in monster lairs and these seem to be just as desired by shopkeepers as the products you gain from your own butchering.

Another good early source of income can be bags left in houses and shops, which usually contain plants and food. No one will complain, and the plants inside can be sold at about 2☼ each plus the value of the bag.

At the bottom of the list comes {{k|L}}ooking carefully and selling any small creatures you might find. However, shops will not accept live creatures unless they are in cages. Some rocks, piles of sand, and other things found on the ground nearly everywhere can also be sold for 1☼ each.

You can also try filling your backpack from river - it can hold up to 100 units of water which is worth 100☼ total. After your sell it, water will drop to the floor as a pool, and backpack can be refilled instantly and for free from there. In fact, you can infinitely fill any container from any pool/pile of any liquid/powder, so if you happen to find some precious substance like [[sunshine]] or [[dwarven sugar]], money won't be a problem for you anymore. This is of course an [[exploit]], liable to be fixed at any time. It may be useful in a pinch, but don't rely on it.

Another devious method is to go outside the shop, {{k|g}}rab handfuls of mud and throw it into your backpack, then sell them for 1☼ each. The merchants will gladly buy your rare and valuable mud despite the unlimited free mud just outside their shop.

== Quest Log ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Q}}
| Open quest log
|-
| {{k|Esc}}
| Exit quest log
|-
| {{k|e}} {{k|p}} {{k|s}} {{k|r}} {{k|b}}
| Access various lists
|-
| {{k|m}}
| Switch between the world map and additional info
|-
| {{k|z}}
| Center cursor on location of selected list item, if known
|-
| {{k|c}}
| Center cursor on your location
|-
| {{k|l}}
| Toggle the visibility of the line between you and some other point on the map.
|-
| {{k|f}}
| Filter the list
|-
| {{k|+}} {{k|-}} {{k|*}} {{k|/}}
| Navigate the list
|}

The quest log contains everything you know about the world, such as various events going on, people you know, and various sites. The {{k|m}} key will alternate between a world map that you can navigate, and information on whatever item is highlighted in the list to the right.

There are various kinds of lists you can check on the quest log:

* '''Events''' — A list of events that are happening or have happened. Formatting of the list is {{DFtext|(type)/(description)}}. You can center on the location of the event if you know this. This list is the closest you'll get to some formal quest system.
* '''People''' — A list of people you know. At the start of the game, this list will contain people in your site.
* '''Sites''' — A list of various sites around the world.
* '''Groups''' — A list of groups you know of and your relation to them. Note that you have to press {{k|e}} when you're on the events list in order to reach this list, requiring you to press {{k|e}} at most twice.
* '''Regions''' — A list of regions. The additional information will list the biomes a region possesses.
* '''Bestiary''' — A list of creatures, their characteristics, and where you could find them.

==Crafting==
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|x}}
| Perform action (butcher, create item...)
|}

Adventurers can perform limited crafting, (also known as "reactions"). To access the crafting menu, press {{k|x}}.

* '''[[Knapper|Knapping]]''' allows an adventurer to sharpen a rock. Knapping only works on stones on the ground or in your hands. Choose the {{k|c}}reate option and then select "Make sharp stone". You will be prompted to choose a rock to sharpen ("tool stone"), and then the rock that is to be the hammerstone. The tool stone will be replaced in your hand by a sharp version.

* '''Butchering''' acts similarly to Fortress Mode's [[Butchery]] by converting a corpse into edible products, bones, and skin. A corpse must be on the ground or in your hand. With a sharp object (such as a dagger or knapped stone or even a bolt/arrow) in your hand or on the same tile of the corpse, select the {{k|b}}utcher option, and then you can select the corpse and the sharp tool to butcher with. The corpse will be replaced by its butchering returns.

* '''Spitting''' gives you spit, which can be aimed at someone in much the same way as any projectile. To get this, choose natural ability and then spit in the reactions menu.

You may also gain acquired abilities when you become a creature of the night, such as a necromancer.

= Sites =

More information on each type of site can be found in the site's specific article.

== Civilization ==

[[Civilization]]s are organized groups of creatures (generally of the same race) which build sites such as towns.

=== Human Sites ===

==== Towns {{Raw Tile|+|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|*|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|#|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|☼|7:0:0}} ====
Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human towns are highly modular, and are usually near some source of water, either the coast or a river.

Towns appear on the fast travel map (when outside a site) as {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} or {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} symbols which are small collections of buildings. When you are near a human site, large yellow blocks indicate where various houses and shops are found (though not all houses and shops can be found in these blocks; sometimes you'll find a house or two out in a site's fields). You usually have to follow the roads in a yellow block on the fast travel map.

Towns usually have lots of interesting structures which are described fully in the [[town]] article.

==== Hamlets {{Raw Tile|æ|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|Æ|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|{{=}}|7:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|≡|7:0:0}} ====
Most of the time, the majority of a human civilization's population will live in small [[hamlet]]s, which tend to be sprawled out along coastlines and through river valleys. Like other sites, they can be invaded, and you'll sometimes find them captured by other civilizations, [[necromancer]]s, or criminal syndicates. Human adventurers usually spawn in hamlets.

Note that hamlets are similar in structure to towns, only they have mead halls instead of keeps, and don't have any defensive walls.

=== Dwarven Sites ===

==== Dwarf Fortresses {{Raw Tile|Ω|7:0:1}} ====
These are the randomly generated equivalent of the sites you build in [[dwarf fortress mode]]. [[Fortress]]es are described in detail in the own article. Their main function for adventurers is that they have a central, spiraling ramp that connects the underground and above-ground worlds, particularly in that they connect the subterranean tunnel networks to the rest of the dwarf civilization. They are located at the edges of mountain ranges.

Player-made fortresses are considered dwarf fortresses by the game, in addition to the randomly-generated ones.

==== Mountain Halls {{Raw Tile|Ω|0:0:1}} ====
[[Mountain halls]] are the sites of the "deep dwarves," located far beneath the mountains. They can be accessed via down-stairs found in underground tunnels, and are comprised of a couple of levels that contain bedrooms and large halls filled with smelters or forges.

==== Hillocks {{Raw Tile|Ω|7:0:0}} ====
[[Hillock]]s are the dwarf equivalent to human hamlets. They consist of a few circular mounds filled with dwarf citizens. There doesn't seem to be any settlement pattern for them; they are equally likely to be found in any land [[biome]].

=== Elven Sites ===

==== Forest Retreats {{Raw Tile|î|6:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|¶|6:0:1}} ====
Elves live in [[forest retreat]]s located, unsurprisingly, in [[forest]] biomes. They are essentially clusters of huge [[tree]]s with elves standing in and around them.

=== Goblin Sites ===

==== Dark Fortresses {{Raw Tile|π|0:0:1}} {{Raw Tile|π|5:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|π|5:0:1}} ====
These are the main goblin sites. Some [[dark fortress]]es may contain a [[Underworld spire|certain spoiler]].

==== Dark Pits {{Raw Tile|º|5:0:0}}====
These are the goblin equivalent of hamlets and hillocks. [[Dark Pit]]s are essentially canyons lined with wooden guard towers. They tend to be built in huge clusters around the dark fortresses, such that large chunks of the map may be covered with them.

=== Kobold Sites ===
==== Caves {{Raw Tile|•|#808080|#00DD00}}====
[[Cave]]s are sometimes home to [[kobold]] groups. They are mounds filled with narrow tunnels leading to the [[caverns]] and usually contain piles of random loot resulting from kobold [[Thief|thieving]] incursions.

=== Night Creature Sites ===

==== Necromancer's Towers {{Raw Tile|I|5:0:0}} ====
[[Necromancer]]'s Towers are built by necromancers who have at least 50 followers; younger necromancers may take over towns or camps instead. Usually you can find [[book]]s written by the necromancer, some of which contain [[Necromancer#Adventurer_Mode|the secret to life and death]]. Towers require abundant human populations (low savagery, large tracts of neutral land) and a high number of secrets to be generated in world generation, as necromancers cannot be elf or goblin.

==== Lairs ====
Lairs are the homes of [[night troll]]s. Lairs are mounds or holes in the ground with doors or hatch covers. Most night troll lairs are inhabited by a single creature, but sometimes you'll encounter entire families of five or even ten.

=== Megabeast Sites ===
==== Minotaur's Labyrinths {{Raw Tile|#|0:7:1}}====
A Labyrinth is an intricate network of tunnels often filled with the bodies of previous adventurers slain in [[World generation|worldgen]] by its resident [[minotaur]]. As you explore the labyrinth, you will hear the minotaur taunting you.

==== Shrine {{Raw Tile|Å|7:0:0}} ====
Shrines are huge stone structures surrounded by pillars that are the homes of [[Bronze colossus|bronze colossi]] and [[titan]]s. Several of them can be found on a single site, making its exploration particularly hazardous. [[Demon|Demons]] have also been reported to inhabit them.

= FAQ =

== How do I find an entrance to the underworld? ==
Method 1: Most [[Cave|caves]] lead directly into the first [[cavern]] layer. Although it may be possible to learn of some trouble which originates from a cave{{verify}}, your best bet is to ask people about the surroundings, and hope that they mention a cave at some point. If they don't, travel to another site a fair bit away from where you are and ask someone else.

Method 2: Dwarf [[Fortress|fortresses]] are connected to the [[tunnel]] system, which usually connects to the caverns.

Method 3: You can start a [[dwarf fortress mode]] game, dig to the first cavern layer, retire or abandon the fortress, and then return with your adventurer.

The three cavern layers are connected to each other in [[Deep pit|various]] [[Passage|places]], although they are rather spread out and extremely difficult to find with an adventurer.

Additionally, [[Underworld spire|a certain spoiler]] can be found which leads to [[Hell|another spoiler]], deep underground.

== I keep getting maimed! How can I fight without getting seriously hurt? ==
The best defense is a good offense. If you let your enemies attack you, you're (unsurprisingly) likely to get hurt eventually.
* Try to '''avoid fighting difficult enemies until you get some armor'''. Don't fight enemies at all unless you're sure you can beat them. If you're unsure, you're probably going to get hurt.
* If you have good speed, try to '''fight enemies one-by-one''' — keep moving backwards and only attack when you're within range of just one enemy.
* If you have a slashing weapon, try to '''chop body parts off of your enemy''' — it makes them stop fighting for a turn, allowing you to keep attacking them without being attacked in exchange. Chopping off limbs will also weaken your enemies - taking their arms can prevent them from using weapons, taking their legs can make them slow and knock them down. Chopping off their heads will instantly kill them, but it may take a few (or, with larger enemies such as [[troll]]s, it may take more than fifteen) slashes before the head is severed.
* Remember that '''it's better to let your enemy come to you, than to go to your enemy'''. You have to either move or attack. If you move, you can't attack, so if you move within range to attack your enemy, you allow them to have the first strike (unless you're much faster than them). On the other hand, if you let them move within range of you, then you get to have the first strike. If your enemy is one space away from you, use that as an opportunity to throw a knife or a rock at them; worst case, they will get a bruise or a cut; best case, they will start the melee severely crippled. If you're fast enough, then you can simply step back after getting in that first hit, and they'll have to spend their turn approaching you again. Lather, rinse, repeat.
* Follow the advice under [[#Combat Preferences|Combat Preferences]].

== How can I obtain armor as quickly as possible? ==
* The best way would be to rummage through mead halls, keeps, and fortresses, or whatever other strongholds your race makes use of. Not all places will be stocked with equipment, but usually they have something.
** There are also underground locations, such as the dungeons underneath keeps, or the catacombs under temples, that contain plenty of equipment. These underground places are liable to be populated with unfriendly creatures, so beware.
* You can also take along companions and have them killed, or just plainly murder people and loot their corpses for stuff.
* You can earn some money by exchanging some loot with the local populace for coins, and then buy equipment off of soldiers you might meet in towns. Remember that coins only have nominal value in the civilization they've been minted, but gems are equally valuable anywhere.

== How do I increase my skills and attributes? ==

Here are some techniques for raising your skills; very rapidly in some cases.

Most of these skill-raising techniques involve repeatedly entering the same keystrokes. To assist with this you can use a [[DF2014:Macro|macro]] to make entering the same sequence of keystrokes over and over again much easier.

Increasing skills increases associated attributes which may in turn benefit other skills. For example, sharpening rocks using {{k|x}} will increase Knapping which will increase a number of attributes that help with combat skills. See [[Attribute#Skills_by_Associated_Attributes|Skills and Associated Attributes]] for a mostly complete list.

*'''Fighting and Wrestling''' — A good way to raise your Fighting and Wrestling skills and related attributes is to go find a small, relatively harmless animal and wrestle with it repeatedly. You can wrestle hitting {{k|b}} for the wrestling option after selecting the creature to fight. Continually grabbing and releasing a creature is sufficient to raise your skill, and you can do it indefinitely with the same animal as it won't be injured (unless you auto-wrestle it). Wrestling will increase Kinesthetic Sense, Spatial Sense, and to a lesser extent, Endurance. You may also somewhat increase Dodging and Shield User this way as the creature takes swipes at you.It's possible to change your {{k|C}}ombat preferences for attacking and dodging to ''Close Combat'' and ''Stand Ground'', respectively, allowing you to simply walk into the helpless critter to wrestle it. (Standing your ground prevents you from moving to dodge attacks, so your wrestling can continue almost uninterrupted.) You will, however, perform occasional throws and take-downs as long as the creature remains standing, which may result in their eventual bleeding to death. Strangulation is also a repeated concern, as it will render the victim unconscious, thus making you have to wait until it regains consciousness before you can continue auto-wrestling it (though you may still raise your Wrestler and Fighter skills by 10 points for every time you ''release'' a limb - though this must be done manually and must be repeatedly confirmed, once the creature is rendered unconscious). Another concern with auto-wrestling some animals is that you will perform joint locks, and break hips, knees, and ankles in the process, which can cause the creature to bleed to death. If you can wrangle a creature incapable of blood-loss and strangulation in a high-FPS area (such as a crab on a frozen beach), you can easily raise all associated skills and attributes to Legendary and Superhuman in the course of a few minutes.
*'''Shield User, Armor User, and Dodging''' - In addition to wrestling the creature, you can also sit back and let it attack you to raise your defensive skills. If you have metal armor, then a small animal like a gopher can't do any real damage to you when it hits. Also, to place emphasis more heavily on shield blocking, you can change your attack {{K|C}}ombat preference to ''Stand Ground''. The wrestling-a-crab-on-a-frozen-beach method also works fantastically for this.
*'''Weapon Skills and Fighting''' — Once your defensive skills are getting up there and your agility is high enough, you might want to try fighting [[bogeyman|bogeymen]] to increase your weapon skill. Just make sure to fight them one at a time while running away. If you don't know what a bogeyman is yet then you are probably not ready to try this. Also, doing difficult targeted shots will gain more experience and keep the training dummy alive longer.
*'''Throwing and Archery''' — Throwing rocks with {{k|t}} will raise your Throwing and Archery skills. Throwing objects at creatures, while not terribly effective, can still be a quite handy skill. Although throwing is a way to raise Archery without wasting ammunition, there is a non-wasteful method that additionally increases bow/crossbow skills.The most efficient way to level via throwing is to forgo using a macro and separate training into two phases: {{k|g}}etting and {{k|t}}hrowing. First, find a tile with an indefinite amount of throwable objects (e.g., snow, rocks, mud, etc.). Then, sequentially mash {{k|g}} and whatever key the rocks are assigned to until both your forearms explode. Rest. Then, sequentially mash {{k|t}}, followed by some consistent key assigned to your rocks, then {{k|Enter}}, until you've emptied your inventory. Rest. Rinse and repeat. (You may wish to empty your inventory beforehand such that the rocks are assigned to a key close to {{k|t}}, allowing you to keep one hand on {{k|Enter}} and another on {{k|t}}.)
*'''Marksman, Bowman, and Archery''' — Raising the bow and crossbow weapon-specific skills is best done by shooting at a wall or cliff with no floor directly beneath it. If bolts or arrows hit a wall that has floor/ground on the same z-level, then the ammunition will be destroyed. ''However'', ammunition that falls at least one z-level after hitting a wall will remain intact. So, simply find something like a hill inside a castle, stand on it, then shoot at a wall which is on the same z-level you are. The arrows will hit the wall and fall one z-level to the ground, remaining intact. You can then {{k|g}}et the arrows and {{k|f}}ire them at the wall again from the hill, ad infinitum. You can also stand next to a wall that's two or more z-levels high, aiming at the wall one z-level up by hitting {{k|<}} after hitting {{k|f}}. Whatever method you employ, the key is that the arrow needs to fall at least one z-level after hitting a wall to remain intact. Using a macro will speed this up greatly.An alternative and much easier way to train any ranged attack is to simply shoot one or more z-levels straight above into the air , by using {{k|f}} than {{k|<}} , any ammunition used seems incapable of causing harm to the one launching it and lands undamaged under their feet for easy retrieval , however this may be considered a bug and/or exploit.
*'''Ambushing and Swimming''' — An efficient way to raise Ambushing is to sneak over large stretches of land. Sneaking on the fast travel screen may work as well.{{Verify}} Ideally, this would be done in a biome containing sparse vegetation and few threatening creatures to blunder into and reduce FPS (e.g., a frozen beach).Although less efficient for raising only Ambushing, it's also possible to sneak and swim at the same time, thus combining their training. '''Just make sure you start with at least Novice in swimming''', or you'll find swimming practically impossible to train. Swimming can very quickly improve your Strength, Agility, and Endurance. Additionally, if you can safely drown and then recover (e.g., by moving under a bridge and then back before suffocating), this will raise both Toughness and Endurance at a ''ridiculous'' pace— a single step spent drowning will raise both attributes by a fifth of a point apiece.
*'''Observer''' — You can't really power-level this skill as it is slow and difficult to train, which is why you're advised to sink some points into it during character creation. However, one way to train it appears to be sleeping or walking around in the wilderness, allowing yourself to be repeatedly ambushed. This is, however, inherently dangerous. Running away from these encounters would probably be faster than slaying your assailants, if not generally safer for your character (but not for your companions, hoh boy).Successfully detecting traps found in tombs and catacombs (performed automatically) will also raise Observer. However, without decent skill to begin with, you'll be torn to pieces by the many traps you'll fail to see. Otherwise, once you've found one or more traps, it's possible to grind experience by sleeping/waiting an hour, thus resetting the traps. Rinse and repeat.As of version 40_23 one seem to aquire Observer skill from regular combat.
*'''Spatial and Kinesthetic Sense''' - While sharpening rocks with {{k|x}} will improve your Knapping skill, it more importantly increases your Spatial Sense and Kinesthetic Sense attributes, which affect a number of other skills. Knapping can be combined with throwing via a macro to keep your inventory from filling up.
*'''Other Stats''' - Other useful stats like Strength, Agility, and Toughness will increase significantly as the fighting and defense skills increase, so you don't need to do anything other than what you'd normally be doing to increase these.

== I managed to escape but my limbs are chopped off. Now what? ==

'Tis but a scratch!

Unfortunately, there is only one way to get them back, and that is by being bitten by a [[werebeast]] and surviving until the next full moon. But as long as you have at least one leg and one arm left you can actually do pretty well. First, get a crutch from somewhere, such as a general store, and make sure it's in one of your hands. Once you do that you should be able to {{k|s}}tand back up again. (However, if spinal nervous tissue damage is what has disabled your ability to stand, crutches ''will not'' help you in that regard.) You will notice that your speed is now much slower than before.

Now go find someplace reasonably safe and walk back and forth until your Crutch Walking skill gets up to Legendary or above. You will notice your speed increasing as your skill levels up until your speed is completely back to normal. As a bonus you'll probably see some stat increases as well. You can continue to dodge with a crutch just as well as before.

You can wield a sword, shield, and crutch all in one hand, so even if you are missing an arm then you're all set. If you are missing both arms but still have both legs then unfortunately you'll be limited to biting, dodging, and wrestling with legs. If you're missing both arms and one leg then your movement will be limited and you'll be limited to biting and wrestling with your one remaining leg. And if all limbs are missing then you'll be limited to rolling around on the ground biting things.

Though you might actually be able to do surprisingly well as a Legendary Biter, especially if you powerlevel your strength to the point where you can shake things around by the teeth ripping limbs off, if you lose both legs then your character is going to be severely limited just due to the poor movement rate, so at that point it's probably best to opt for retirement or a glorious death in battle.

== What creatures of night can I become? ==

You basically have four different choices.

Firstly, you can become a [[necromancer|'''necromancer''']].
* That gives you some traits of an undead. Namely, you don't need to eat, sleep or drink, don't tire or age, zombies or mummies don't attack you and your physical stats are permanently fixed.
* The last one means it's wise to train them beforehand.
* You also can raise dead from the {{K|x}} menu. Depending on the flavor of your spell, zombies can be slow, very slow or not slow at all. They will be listed as companions.
* To become a necromancer, find a necromancer tower and obtain a book or slab containing secrets of life and death from there, then read it. Note that most of the books are useless. In younger worlds necromancers may not have built their towers yet, in which case they'll be hanging at a zombie bandit camp, slab under the arm.

Secondly, you can become a [[vampire|'''vampire''']].
* That gives you most traits of an undead. In addition to the listed above, you don't feel pain, don't breathe and immune to most syndromes.
* Your strength, agility and toughness are doubled.
* They're still fixed forever, so, again, be prepared.
* You gain blood vision, in which all creatures with blood not in your field of view will be represented with {{Tile|☼|4:0:1}}.
* Despite not needing to drink water, you have a hunger for warm blood. To satisfy it, beat someone or something unconscious and {{K|e}}at their blood.
* To become a vampire, defeat one in combat and drink his blood.
* In version 0.42.01, it is now possible to be "cursed" by a god into becoming a vampire by desecrating statues\totems\altars dedicated to them. This can be done by pressing {{k|u}} while adjacent to interact with them, and toppling them. {{version|0.42.01}}

Thirdly, you can become a [[werebeast|'''werebeast''']].
* This gives you the (uncontrolled) ability to transform into a powerful half-man, half-beast on a full moon.
* There's a fixed list of animals on which the werebeast is based, including goat, llama, lizard, horse, monitor, buffalo, moose, tortoise, camel, kangaroo, ape, gecko, bear, hyena, warthog, iguana, skink, shrew, elk, skunk, pig, raccoon, panda, mole, badger, armadillo, mammoth and more.
* Most importantly, upon transformation (both ways) all your wounds, including missing limbs, are instantly healed.
* You don't show any abnormalcy outside of beast form. You are still mortal.
* When in beast form, everything is hostile to you, you don't need to drink, eat, sleep or breathe, don't feel pain, don't tire and are immune to some syndromes.
* One randomly chosen metal is ten times as deadly to you than usual. All other materials deal you half damage.
* Werebeast's size is several times their base animal size, but no less than 80000. This means all armor will be too small for you while in beast form. But you can still use a shield.
* Also, some werebeasts are truly gigantic — weremammoth has a size of 9000000, on par with demons.
* To become a werebeast, make one bite you. It has to be in the beast form.
* In version 0.42.01, it is now possible to be "cursed" by a god into becoming a werebeast by desecrating statues\totems\altars dedicated to them. This can be done by pressing {{k|u}} while adjacent to interact with them, and toppling them.{{version|0.42.01}}
* You cannot be a werebeast and a vampire at the same time.

And finally, you can become a mist [[zombie|'''zombie''']].
* This makes you undead. In addition to vampire traits, you can see without eyes and can't die via blood loss or beheading. Note that you don't have health point limit raised zombies have.
* You become permanently hostile to everyone except other undead.
* Your strength and toughness are tripled and fixed. Train beforehand.
* Depending on the flavor of zombie virus, your speed may or may not drop to 20% or 60% of its normal value.
* To become a mist zombie, find a mist/fog cloud that zombifies creatures and run into it.
* You cannot become a vampire or a werebeast if you are already a zombie. The other way, however, is fine.

=See Also=
*[[Main:Adventure Mode quick reference|Adventure Mode Quick Reference]]
*[[Main:Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide]]

=A glimpse into the Future=
{{D for dwarf}}

* Passage from "Shooting <s>for</s> the sky" , the giant toad bone bound book by Nefil Blackbone the human necromancer :

{{Quote|align=left|
... While seemingly absurd , the practice of ones abilities with a ranged weapon can be furthered by directing said weapon towards the sky .
After all , during day time the sky has one giant target that might even seem so large that it's impossible to miss , and the night sky has many smaller ones .
It has been well documented that hitting the target may not be necessary to achieve improvement in ones skill with said arms , thus it is reasonable to expect every subsequent shot after the first will hit a tad closer to it's intended target , this has further lead me to believe in the possibility of sky exploration , for with this logic at some point the projectile will actually hit it's target and could subsequently be replaced with a test [[goblin|dummy]] to further resolve survival issues and empty ones [[invader|guest]] [[stockpile|accommodations]] in one go .
Finally with said preparations accomplished it would be possible to explore whatever is beyond that great blue/black border above .
However some skeptical dwarven scholars suggest this to be impossible and rather place their bets on the tried and tested dwarven [[bridge|launch system]] , while notable human scholars propose using bigger [[catapult|armaments]] to accomplish the goal .
This is how the great space race between the Elves , Dwarves and Humans began , which would later on lead to massive intergalactic conflicts , space goblin invasions , immortal human emperors , elven space gates , interplanetary clown-storms all under the name of the humble dwarven hammer of war ...}}

{{Getting Started}}
{{Category|Adventurer mode}}
{{Category|Interface}}

Sawgrass

2017-02-08T23:41:24Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Fine" using the rating script

{{Quality|Fine|23:41, 8 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{grasslookup/0|wiki=Cladium}}{{av}}

'''Sawgrass''' is a type of grass that grows exclusively in [[wetland]]s. It is indistinguishable from most other types of [[grass]].

{{gamedata}}
{{Plants}}

Ryegrass

2017-02-08T23:41:03Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|23:41, 8 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{grasslookup/0}}{{av}}

'''Ryegrass''' is a common type of grass that grows in most dry temperate regions. It is indistinguishable from most other types of grass.

[[FILE:Illustration Lolium temulentum0.jpg|thumb|left|]]

{{gamedata}}
{{Plants}}

Baby toes succulent

2017-02-08T23:40:33Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Exceptional" using the rating script

{{Quality|Exceptional|23:40, 8 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{grasslookup/0|wiki=Fenestraria}}{{av}}

'''Baby toes succulent''' is a type of grass exclusive to desert environments. It can grow white flowers.

==In real life==
There are various common names, such as babies' toes or window plant. Each leaf has a leaf window, a transparent window-like area, at its rounded tip, it is for these window-like structures that the genus is named (Latin: fenestra). In the wild, the plant commonly grows under sand, except for the transparent tips, which allow light into the leaves for photosynthesis. Fenestraria rhopalophylla is native to Namaqualand in southern Africa and to Namibia. The plants generally grow in sandy or calciferous soils under low < 100 mm rainfall.
[[File:Fenestraria rhopaliphylla rhopalophylla.jpg|400px|left|Baby Toes Succulant]]
{{gamedata}}
{{Plants}}

Floor fungus

2017-02-08T23:39:25Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Superior" to "Fine" using the rating script

{{Quality|Fine|23:39, 8 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{grasslookup/0|wiki=no}}{{av}}

Floor fungus is identical to [[cave moss]], except for the color.

As with [[Caverns#Benefits|most underground grasses]], floor fungus only appears after a [[cavern]] containing floor fungus has been discovered.

{{gamedata}}
{{Plants}}

Cave moss

2017-02-08T23:39:13Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Fine" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|23:39, 8 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{grasslookup/0|wiki=no}}{{av}}

'''Cave moss''' is a peculiar [[grass]]-like growth that occurs in underground [[caverns]]. Animals such as [[cow]]s or [[yak]]s can be designated to graze on it via [[pasture]]s.

Cave moss is functionally identical to [[floor fungus]], but should not be confused with normal [[moss]]. As with [[Caverns#Benefits|most underground grasses]], cave moss only appears after a [[caverns|cavern]] containing cave moss has been discovered.

Cave moss will grow on a below ground [[soil]] surface or on a muddied stone surface that has not been smoothed. The amount of mud on the surface does not affect the distribution or growth rate of subterranean plants [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=122150].

{{gamedata}}
{{Plants}}

Tunnel tube

2017-02-08T23:38:41Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Exceptional" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|23:38, 8 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Treelookup/0|wiki=no}}
{{av}}

'''Tunnel tubes''' are a type of [[underground]] [[tree]]. They are found in deep [[caverns]], and will grow on any [[mud|muddied]] [[rock]] or [[soil]] once found. When cut down, they yield violet logs suitable for producing colorful furniture. (Note that [[rose gold]] is the same color, and can also be used to create furniture other than [[bed]]s, so if you are able to create it, breaching the second cavern layer may not be necessary.)

{{gamedata}}
{{Plants}}
{{Category|Subterranean trees}}

Spore tree

2017-02-08T23:37:19Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Exceptional" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|23:37, 8 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Treelookup/0|wiki=no}}
{{av}}

'''Spore trees''' are a type of [[underground]] [[tree]]. They are found in deep [[cavern|caverns]], and grow on [[mud|muddied]] [[soil]] after they are found. When cut down, they yield teal logs suitable for producing colorful furniture.

{{gamedata}}
{{Plants}}
{{Category|Subterranean trees}}

Goblin-cap

2017-02-08T23:37:10Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Exceptional" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|23:37, 8 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Treelookup/0|wiki=no}}
{{av}}

'''Goblin-caps''' are a type of [[underground]] [[tree]]. They are found in the second and third levels of [[caverns]] near the [[water]]. When cut down, they yield red logs suitable for producing colorful furniture.

{{gamedata}}
{{Plants}}
{{Category|Subterranean trees}}

Fungiwood

2017-02-08T23:37:03Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Exceptional" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|23:37, 8 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Treelookup/0|wiki=no}}
{{av}}

The '''Fungiwood''' is an underground tree, likely related to the [[Tower-cap]].

It is found in [[underground]] [[caverns]], and can also grow on [[soil]] or [[mud|muddied]] [[rock]]. It provides lemon-colored [[wood]].

{{gamedata}}
{{Plants}}
{{Category|Subterranean trees}}

Black-cap

2017-02-08T23:36:51Z

Rriegs: Changed quality rating from "Exceptional" to "Superior" using the rating script

{{Quality|Superior|23:36, 8 February 2017 (UTC)}}
{{Treelookup/0|wiki=no}}
{{av}}

'''Black-caps''' are a type of [[underground]] [[tree]]. They are found in the lower levels of [[caverns]] near the [[water]]. Unsurprisingly, they yield black logs when cut down. Due to their color, live black-caps saplings are indistinguishable from trampled ones.

{{gamedata}}
{{Plants}}
{{Category|Subterranean trees}}