Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

User talk:Riking/biome tokens

2013-02-02T00:31:10Z

Riking: Created page with "{| class="collapsible" {{prettytable}} |- bgcolor="#ddd" ! rowspan="2" | ID ! rowspan="2" | Token ! rowspan="2" | Description ! colspan="8" | Sets |- ! Main ! Land / Water ! Temp..."

{| class="collapsible" {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! rowspan="2" | ID
! rowspan="2" | Token
! rowspan="2" | Description
! colspan="8" | Sets
|-
! Main
! Land / Water
! Temp/Trop
! Not Freezing
! Land Category
! Temp/Trop Land Category
! Temp/Trop Broadleaf
! Temp/Trop Swamp/Marsh
|-
| 0 || MOUNTAIN or MOUNTAINS || Mountain || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || || || || || ||
|-
| 1 || GLACIER || Glacier || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || || || || || ||
|-
| 2 || TUNDRA || Tundra || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || || || || || ||
|-
| 3 || SWAMP_TEMPERATE_FRESHWATER || Temperate Freshwater Swamp || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TEMPERATE || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_WETLAND || ANY_TEMPERATE_WETLAND || ANY_TEMPERATE_BROADLEAF || ANY_TEMPERATE_SWAMP
|-
| 4 || SWAMP_TEMPERATE_SALTWATER || Temperate Saltwater Swamp || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TEMPERATE || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_WETLAND || ANY_TEMPERATE_WETLAND || ANY_TEMPERATE_BROADLEAF || ANY_TEMPERATE_SWAMP
|-
| 5 || MARSH_TEMPERATE_FRESHWATER || Temperate Freshwater Marsh || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TEMPERATE || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_WETLAND || ANY_TEMPERATE_WETLAND || ANY_TEMPERATE_BROADLEAF || ANY_TEMPERATE_MARSH
|-
| 6 || MARSH_TEMPERATE_SALTWATER || Temperate Saltwater Marsh || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TROPICAL || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_WETLAND || ANY_TEMPERATE_WETLAND || ANY_TEMPERATE_BROADLEAF || ANY_TEMPERATE_MARSH
|-
| 7 || SWAMP_TROPICAL_FRESHWATER || Tropical Freshwater Swamp || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TROPICAL || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_WETLAND || ANY_TROPICAL_WETLAND || ANY_TROPICAL_BROADLEAF || ANY_TROPICAL_SWAMP
|-
| 8 || SWAMP_TROPICAL_SALTWATER || Tropical Saltwater Swamp || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TROPICAL || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_WETLAND || ANY_TROPICAL_WETLAND || ANY_TROPICAL_BROADLEAF || ANY_TROPICAL_SWAMP
|-
| 9 || SWAMP_MANGROVE || Mangrove Swamp || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_WETLAND || ANY_TROPICAL_WETLAND || ANY_TROPICAL_BROADLEAF || ANY_TROPICAL_SWAMP
|-
| 10 || MARSH_TROPICAL_FRESHWATER || Tropical Freshwater Marsh || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_WETLAND || ANY_TROPICAL_WETLAND || ANY_TROPICAL_BROADLEAF || ANY_TROPICAL_MARSH
|-
| 11 || MARSH_TROPICAL_SALTWATER || Tropical Saltwater Marsh || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_WETLAND || ANY_TROPICAL_WETLAND || ANY_TROPICAL_BROADLEAF || ANY_TROPICAL_MARSH
|-
| 12 || FOREST_TAIGA or TAIGA || Taiga || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || || NOT_FREEZING || || || ||
|-
| 13 || FOREST_TEMPERATE_CONIFER || Temperate Coniferous Forest || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TEMPERATE || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_FOREST || ANY_TEMPERATE_FOREST || ||
|-
| 14 || FOREST_TEMPERATE_BROADLEAF || Temperate Broadleaf Forest || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TEMPERATE || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_FOREST || ANY_TEMPERATE_FOREST || ANY_TEMPERATE_BROADLEAF ||
|-
| 15 || FOREST_TROPICAL_CONIFER || Tropical Coniferous Forest || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TROPICAL || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_FOREST || ANY_TROPICAL_FOREST || ||
|-
| 16 || FOREST_TROPICAL_DRY_BROADLEAF || Tropical Dry Broadleaf Forest || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TROPICAL || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_FOREST || ANY_TROPICAL_FOREST || ANY_TROPICAL_BROADLEAF ||
|-
| 17 || FOREST_TROPICAL_MOIST_BROADLEAF || Tropical Moist Broadleaf Forest || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TROPICAL || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_FOREST || ANY_TROPICAL_FOREST || ANY_TROPICAL_BROADLEAF ||
|-
| 18 || GRASSLAND_TEMPERATE || Temperate Grassland || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TEMPERATE || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_GRASSLAND || || ANY_TEMPERATE_BROADLEAF ||
|-
| 19 || SAVANNA_TEMPERATE || Temperate Savanna || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TEMPERATE || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_SAVANNA || || ANY_TEMPERATE_BROADLEAF ||
|-
| 20 || SHRUBLAND_TEMPERATE || Temperate Shrubland || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TEMPERATE || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_SHRUBLAND || || ANY_TEMPERATE_BROADLEAF ||
|-
| 21 || GRASSLAND_TROPICAL || Tropical Grassland || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TROPICAL || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_GRASSLAND || || ANY_TROPICAL_BROADLEAF ||
|-
| 22 || SAVANNA_TROPICAL || Tropical Savanna || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TROPICAL || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_SAVANNA || || ANY_TROPICAL_BROADLEAF ||
|-
| 23 || SHRUBLAND_TROPICAL || Tropical Shrubland || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || ANY_TROPICAL || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_SHRUBLAND || || ANY_TROPICAL_BROADLEAF ||
|-
| 24 || DESERT_BADLAND || Badlands || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_DESERT || || ||
|-
| 25 || DESERT_ROCK || Rocky Wasteland || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_DESERT || || ||
|-
| 26 || DESERT_SAND || Sand Desert || ALL_MAIN || ALL_LAND || || NOT_FREEZING || ANY_DESERT || || ||
|-
| 27 || OCEAN_TROPICAL || Tropical Ocean || ALL_MAIN || ANY_OCEAN || || || || || ||
|-
| 28 || OCEAN_TEMPERATE || Temperate Ocean || ALL_MAIN || ANY_OCEAN || || || || || ||
|-
| 29 || OCEAN_ARCTIC || Arctic Ocean || ALL_MAIN || ANY_OCEAN || || || || || ||
|-
| 30 || POOL_TEMPERATE_FRESHWATER || Temperate Freshwater Pool || || ANY_POOL || || || || || ||
|-
| 31 || POOL_TEMPERATE_BRACKISHWATER || Temperate Brackish Pool || || ANY_POOL || || || || || ||
|-
| 32 || POOL_TEMPERATE_SALTWATER || Temperate Saltwater Pool || || ANY_POOL || || || || || ||
|-
| 33 || POOL_TROPICAL_FRESHWATER || Tropical Freshwater Pool || || ANY_POOL || || || || || ||
|-
| 34 || POOL_TROPICAL_BRACKISHWATER || Tropical Brackish Pool || || ANY_POOL || || || || || ||
|-
| 35 || POOL_TROPICAL_SALTWATER || Tropical Saltwater Pool || || ANY_POOL || || || || || ||
|-
| 36 || LAKE_TEMPERATE_FRESHWATER || Temperate Freshwater Lake || ALL_MAIN || ANY_LAKE || || || || ANY_TEMPERATE_LAKE || ||
|-
| 37 || LAKE_TEMPERATE_BRACKISHWATER || Temperate Brackish Lake || ALL_MAIN || ANY_LAKE || || || || ANY_TEMPERATE_LAKE || ||
|-
| 38 || LAKE_TEMPERATE_SALTWATER || Temperate Saltwater Lake || ALL_MAIN || ANY_LAKE || || || || ANY_TEMPERATE_LAKE || ||
|-
| 39 || LAKE_TROPICAL_FRESHWATER || Tropical Freshwater Lake || ALL_MAIN || ANY_LAKE || || || || ANY_TROPICAL_LAKE || ||
|-
| 40 || LAKE_TROPICAL_BRACKISHWATER || Tropical Brackish Lake || ALL_MAIN || ANY_LAKE || || || || ANY_TROPICAL_LAKE || ||
|-
| 41 || LAKE_TROPICAL_SALTWATER || Tropical Saltwater Lake || ALL_MAIN || ANY_LAKE || || || || ANY_TROPICAL_LAKE || ||
|-
| 42 || RIVER_TEMPERATE_FRESHWATER || Temperate Freshwater River || || ANY_RIVER || || || || ANY_TEMPERATE_RIVER || ||
|-
| 43 || RIVER_TEMPERATE_BRACKISHWATER || Temperate Brackish River || || ANY_RIVER || || || || ANY_TEMPERATE_RIVER || ||
|-
| 44 || RIVER_TEMPERATE_SALTWATER || Temperate Saltwater River || || ANY_RIVER || || || || ANY_TEMPERATE_RIVER || ||
|-
| 45 || RIVER_TROPICAL_FRESHWATER || Tropical Freshwater River || || ANY_RIVER || || || || ANY_TROPICAL_RIVER || ||
|-
| 46 || RIVER_TROPICAL_BRACKISHWATER || Tropical Brackish River || || ANY_RIVER || || || || ANY_TROPICAL_RIVER || ||
|-
| 47 || RIVER_TROPICAL_SALTWATER || Tropical Saltwater River || || ANY_RIVER || || || || ANY_TROPICAL_RIVER || ||
|-
| 48 || SUBTERRANEAN_WATER || Underground caverns (in water) || || || || || || || ||
|-
| 49 || SUBTERRANEAN_CHASM || Underground caverns (out of water) || || || || || || || ||
|-
| 50 || SUBTERRANEAN_LAVA || Magma sea || || || || || || || ||

v0.34:Clothing

2012-06-11T21:40:43Z

Riking: add adventurer category to size seciton

{{quality|Fine|15:54, 8 October 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
:''For making clothes, see [[Textile industry]]''

'''Clothes''' are items made out of [[cloth]] or [[leather]] which are worn by sentient [[creature]]s to protect them from the elements, from damage, and to cover themselves. Articles of clothing work similarly to [[armor]], but are distinguished by the fact that they are ''owned'' by your dwarves, and [[wear|wear out]] over time. Technically, clothing is simply [[armor]] with an armor level of 0. In particular, boots (low or high) are armor, and not clothing.

In theory, clothing provides less protection against attacks than "real" armor, but some players claim that leather cloaks and hoods offer significant protection from attacks. Also, there have been humorous bugs in the past where animal teeth were not hard enough to bite through silk shirts and artifact glass serrated disks could not pierce [[goblin]] clothes.

Currently dwarves need no protection from cold environments, but adult dwarves get bad [[thought]]s if they are naked, or wearing old or tattered clothes. Babies do not wear clothes, but all adult and child dwarves will claim, and wear, clothing automatically. Dwarves may incur several different clothing-related bad thoughts:
* Total nudity
* Missing upper body covering (shirt, vest, dress, robe, cloak, or coat)
* Missing lower body covering (trousers or skirts)
* Missing footwear (shoes, sandals, or socks)
* Wearing [[wear|old or tattered]] clothing (items with "X" or "XX" wear, but not "x" wear)
* Clothing rots away while worn

Clothing thoughts are quite strong, and they stack with each other. [[Tantrum spiral]]s are likely unless you produce sufficient footwear, upper-, and lower-body-covering items. A tantruming military is the last thing you want.

Another use for clothes (besides selling them to [[caravan]]s) is keeping your dwarves from stepping barefoot in the [[syndrome|poisonous]] blood left by some [[forgotten beast]]s.

Clothes are stored as [[finished goods]], and may be stored in [[bin]]s. Dwarves will store their personal unworn clothing in their rooms, either directly on the floor, or in [[cabinet]]s.

While in a stockpile (or a dwarf's personal quarters), clothing is usually safe from being damaged, but as soon as a dwarf puts on an item of clothing, it begins to degrade, and will [[wear|wear out]] eventually. Clothing that is owned but which is not worn and not in a dwarf's quarters will eventually revert to unowned status, eligible to be picked up by some desperate, rag-clad (or unclad) boor. Clothing which is in a [[stockpile#Refuse|refuse stockpile]] degrades very quickly, which helps lower the number of in-game items by destroying old clothing that won't see further use; one way to take advantage of this is designating a refuse stockpile in the same tile as a [[Activity_zone#Garbage_Dump|garbage dump activity zone]], and then marking all the discarded clothing for dumping.

== Size ==
[[Category:DF2012:Adventurer mode]]
Clothing and armor all have a size associated with them, and equipment made for one size of creature cannot be worn by larger or smaller creatures. For dwarves, this applies to clothes and armor worn by [[human]]s and [[troll]]s (which will appear to be "'''large'''"(*) as well as [[kobold]]s (which will appear to be "'''small'''"); [[goblin]]s and [[elf|elves]] are the same size as dwarves, so their clothing and armor can be equipped rather than being limited to [[Melt item|melt]]ing (in the case of metal armor) or using as [[trade]] goods (especially once [[Decoration|decorate]]d).

Any clothing/armor that isn't ''small'' or ''large'' is one-size-fits-all, and can be worn by any dwarf, from the smallest child to the biggest adult.

:''(*) With one exception: Items made from leather from [[large rat]]s will appear as "large rat leather ______". Human-sized gloves made from large rat leather would be "large large rat leather gloves." There are no "rats" that provide leather, so while confusing, this is definitive.)''

{{D for Dwarf}}

This was the beginning of the dwarven obsession with socks. Long ago, socks were plentiful in dwarven kingdoms across the land, and the bearded ones paid little heed to what adorned their feet. But after the proud citadel of Nogrithog destroyed itself in a terrible civil war over a dispute concerning sock shortages, the production of which they were completely and utterly ignorant, the entire dwarf race everywhere in the universe vowed to never let this happen again. Dwarves made sure to stockpile woolen, silken, and even cloth footwear against the unthinkable happening ever again. Children were frightened with the story of the Great Sock War even before they stopped suckling at their mothers' breasts, to indoctrinate them in proper sock hoarding behavior, and to frighten unruly children into better behavior: "If you don't stop pulling Catten's braids, Sibrek, all the socks will disappear!" So great is the dwarf's fear of a sock shortage that they will sacrifice their own well-being and even lives to make sure that even one single sock will not be overlooked. It is unknown how such an utterly primitive race such as dwarves could possibly know how one dwarven civilization in a remote and utterly unimportant continent on a forgotten minor world destroyed itself on every other world that dwarves live. Most believe that this is once more the touch of Armok on their sodden and constantly intoxicated brains.

{{Category|Items}}

v0.34:Adventurer mode

2012-06-11T21:00:22Z

Riking: /* How do I increase my skills and attributes? (powerleveling) */ Edit novice swimmer -> adequate

{{quality|Exceptional|15:19, 17 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

:''This is a detailed reference guide for Adventurer Mode. For a tutorial see the [[Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide]].
:''See [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] to quickly look up key commands.

In '''adventurer mode''' (also called "adventure mode") you create a single adventurer ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) who starts out somewhere in one of your generated worlds. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[cave]]s, shrines, lairs, abandoned towers, and other [[Site|towns and settlements]]. You can even visit your abandoned [[fortress]]es and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creature]]s that sealed their fate.

Unlike [[fortress mode]], adventurer mode is a sort of advanced [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandbox_game open world] version of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogue_%28computer_game%29 rogue] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nethack nethack] taking place in the same procedurally generated worlds used for fortress mode, but you control a single character in a turn-based manner rather than manage a group of creatures acting in real time.

=World Selection=

You can play Adventurer mode in any world that has a civilization with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token (which are elf, dwarf, and human in unmodded raws) but as of the current version only human civilizations have towns, NPC fortresses, or shops {{v|0.34.07}}. As a result you need at least one human civilization if you want quests or anything but basic wilderness survival. Alternately, you can alter the other races to also use human towns -- see the talk page under "Dwarven Fortresses."

If you have previously built a fort in the world that you select, your adventurer will be able to go visit it. However, the fort must be abandoned because you will not be able to start an adventure mode game in the same world with an active fortress mode game. Note, though, that you can always save your fortress mode game, duplicate the save folder (copy ''regionX'' to ''regionX-copy'' or something), abandon the fortress in the copy of the world, then start adventure mode in the new clone world.

=Character Creation=

==Race and Civilization==

Any race with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token is playable in adventure mode. In an unmodded game this means [[Dwarves]], [[Elves]], and [[Human|Humans]]. All three races can complete the same quests.

*'''Civilized Humans''' begin with bronze or iron weapons and can use any of the items sold by shopkeepers (who, for the time being, are only found in human towns and only sell human-sized clothing/armor). They also start with the widest variety of weapon skills.

*'''Human Outsiders''' can only start with Spear User and Knife User as weapon skills, and they cannot start with Armor User or Shield User. They also start out literally naked with no clothing, but can wear any human-sized armor that they trade for, steal, or loot. "Outsiders" of other races can be played if you add the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|INDIV_CONTROLLABLE]] token to the race's entity definition.

*'''Dwarves''' have the advantage of being able to go into a [[Martial trance|martial trance]] when fighting multiple foes at once. They are the only race which can start with steel weapons, but they wear "small" sized clothing (like goblins and elves) which means that they're unable to wear human clothing and armor found in shops. They can start with almost all of the same weapon skills as civilized humans. Most human-sized weapons (such as longswords) must be wielded two-handed by dwarves, due to their size.

*'''Elves''' start with very weak wooden weapons and have a more limited list of weapon skills during character creation. They have the advantage that they have higher natural speed. Like dwarves they wear small sized clothing so will have the same problem finding suitable armor in shops.

*'''Kobolds''' can be played only if there are no other civilizations and there are kobolds.

If no civilization for the given race exists in a world, you won't be able to play as that race except perhaps as a human outsider.{{Verify}}

== Status ==

Determines the number of starting skill and attribute points, which does not change based on race:
*'''Peasant:''' 15 attribute, 35 skill
*'''Hero:''' 35 attribute, 95 skill
*'''Demigod:''' 105 attribute, 161 skill
The number of skill points is less significant than the number of attribute points because the time it takes to go from Peasant to Demigod in skill terms is much less than what it would take to go from Peasant to Demigod in attribute terms.

== Starting Attributes ==

[[Attribute|Attributes]] are divided into Body and Soul attributes. This section provides some guidance for allocating attributes as it relates to adventurer mode.

=== Body ===

*'''Strength''' - Alters the damage done in melee, increases muscle mass (thicker muscle layer also resists damage more), and increases how much a creature can carry. Increasing strength, at least in adventurers, increases movement speed (albeit not as much as agility) due to better carrying capacity.
*'''Agility''' - This attribute is directly related to a character's Speed and is also used in combat skills.
*'''Toughness''' - Reduces physical damage. Also relates to defensive combat skills.
*'''Endurance''' - Reduces the rate at which the adventurer becomes exhausted. Used in Wrestling.
*'''Recuperation''' - Increases the rate of wound healing. Not as important as Toughness. Recuperation isn't that useful in adventurer mode since you usually have as much time to rest as you need assuming you can escape a situation alive.
*'''Disease Resistance''' - Reduces the risk of disease. Reduces the "risk" of becoming a vampire in adventurer mode.

Strength, Agility, and Toughness are the Body attributes that most impact combat skills, and Endurance to a lesser extent.

=== Soul ===

Some of these are useful for adventure-mode-applicable skills, but some are totally useless except as dump stats. (The useless ones are in ''italics''.)

*'''Analytical Ability''' - Useful for certain crafting skills, the only one currently being Knapping.
*'''Focus''' - Affects Archer, Ambusher, Observer.
*'''Willpower''' - Fighter, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, and helps resist ''pain effects'' such as those caused by chipped bones.
*'''''Creativity''''' - Currently completely useless in adventure mode. Normally it impacts crafting skills.
*'''Intuition''' - Only helps with Observer.
*'''''Patience''''' - Currently useless.
*'''Memory''' - Records more of previously traveled areas when you return to them. Deletes all memory when you travel.
*'''''Linguistic Ability''''' - Currently useless because adventurers don't have social skills.
*'''Spatial Sense''' - Important. Affects combat skills, Ambusher, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, Observer, Knapping.
*'''''Musicality''''' - Completely useless as of yet.
*'''Kinesthetic Sense''' - Important. Combat skills, Crutch Walker, Swimming, Knapping,
*'''Empathy''' - Might increase chance of persuading people to Join you.{{Verify}}
*'''Social Awareness''' - Increases the number of followers you can have at a given "fame" level. Normally you start with a limit of two. Increasing this stat by one level raises that to three.

=== Attribute Advancement Cap ===

Adventure mode attributes are capped at double the starting value or the starting value plus the racial average, whichever is greater. Humans, for example, have a racial average strength of 1,000. If a human adventurer starts with an ''above average'' strength of 1,100, then his strength will ultimately be capped at 2,200. Had this human started with a ''below average'' strength of 900, then his strength would be capped at 1,900 instead. For the purpose of maximizing final attributes, this makes it important to start with as many attributes in the ''superior'' range as possible (more attributes per point allocated), while avoiding taking any penalties to even remotely important attributes (big attribute deductions per point recovered). As a consequence of the attribute cap, demi-god adventurers will always have a much higher potential for advancement than mere peasants and heroes.

== Starting Skills ==

Not all races have the same sets of skills available at character creation time, but keep in mind that all starting [[skill]]s, as well as ones not available at character creation, can be improved through use in game. [[Reader]] is an exception to this.

This section will specifically address starting skills as they relate to adventure mode. For a full description of combat skills see [[Combat skill]]. Other skills that you can't start with, but which can be increased in game (such as Butchery) are described elsewhere.

=== Weapon ===

The weapon you start out with will be based on which of these, plus the unarmed combat skills, is the highest. In other words, even if Swordsman is your highest weapon skill, you won't start with a sword if your Wrestler or Striker skills are better. Usually the best choice anyway is to specialize in just one melee weapon skill.Regardless of weapon skills, a '''large copper dagger''' will always be included in the starting equipment, which is handy for throwing to enemies that are just a step away or finishing off a foe pinned down by a stuck weapon.

Because these tend to take a bit longer to increase in game, it makes sense to put some points into one at the beginning.

Not all races/civilizations can start with all of these skills. (For example, Dwarves can't start with Bowman or Lasher).

*'''Axeman''' - allows characters to use axes, great axes, and halberds more effectively.
*'''Bowman''' - skill allows characters to use bows more effectively.
*'''Crossbowman''' - allows characters to use crossbows more effectively. The dwarven version is called '''Marksdwarf'''.
*'''Hammerman''' - allows characters to use crossbows in melee, mauls, and war hammers more effectively.
*'''Knife User''' - allows characters to use large daggers and knives more effectively.
*'''Lasher''' - allows characters to use whips and scourges more effectively.
*'''Maceman''' - allows characters to use flails, maces, and morningstars more effectively.
*'''Pikeman''' - allows characters to use pikes more effectively.
*'''Spearman''' - allows characters to use spears more effectively.
*'''Swordsman''' - allows characters to use blowguns and bows in melee, long swords, scimitars, short swords, and two-handed swords more effectively.

=== General Combat ===

These two skills can be raised rather quickly in game and so you probably want to skip spending any points on them at the start.

*'''Fighter''' - This increases with, and contributes to, melee combat whether armed or unarmed. It appears that the purpose of it is to allow melee experience to contribute to melee combat in general regardless of weapon. Repeatedly wrestling (grabbing and releasing) even a small creature will raise this skill.
*'''Archer''' - This increases with, and contributes to, ranged combat including throwing. It works similarly to Fighter except for ranged attacks. It can be easily raised by repeatedly throwing rocks, making it advisable for archers to practice their marksmanship with rock throwing before using up the more finite and expensive forms of ammunition. Shooting at a wall with adjacent upward ramp one level below and picking back projectiles is also a good idea (such places often happen to be in castles). See the FAQ section on [[#powerleveling|powerleveling]] for information on raising bowman/marksman skills.

=== Defensive ===

These skills are critical for survival. Starting out with good ability in one (especially Shield User or Armor User) if not all is strongly advised.

*'''Shield User''' - Ability to block attacks with shields. Starting with skill in this means that the adventurer will start with a shield.
*'''Armor User''' - Related to how well an adventurer moves in armor, and increases whenever an adventurer wearing armor is attacked. A higher level of this skill reduces the encumbrance penalties of armor, allowing up to normal speed movement when wearing full steel plate. Unfortunately, starting with this skill does not provide any starting armor.
*'''Dodger''' - Ability to dodge out of the way of attacks.

=== Unarmed Combat and Improvised Weapons ===

While some of them come in handy at times, they can generally be raised fairly easily in game, especially Wrestler and Thrower.

*'''Wrestler''' - Ability to grapple, restrain, take-down, throw opponents, etc. See [[#Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks]] for details. Can be raised very easily in game.
*'''Striker''' - Punching ability.
*'''Kicker''' - Kicking ability.
*'''Biter''' - Biting ability.
*'''Thrower''' - Throwing any miscellaneous object including rocks, knives, axes, swords, heads, etc.
*'''Misc. Object User''' - Ability to beat things to death with their own severed body parts, basically. Also somewhat more commonly used for shield bashing.

=== Movement and Awareness ===

*'''[[Observer]]''' - Helps one to notice things like ambushes and enemies who are "sneaking" (stealth movement). Detection range increases with skill. Hard to train. Adding some points here is advisable.
*'''[[Swimmer]]''' - Allows movement through water without drowning. A Novice swimmer can swim but will revert to being unable to swim if stunned, which happens when falling even 1 z-level into the water. An Adequate swimmer can swim normally (not drown) while stunned. For this reason, ''starting out as an Adequate swimmer is advisable.'' If you don't, at least start as Novice and go get some swimming practice right away.
*'''[[Ambusher]]''' - The skill of {{K|S}}neaking around unobserved. This can be raised fairly easily by sneaking around while traveling from place to place when speed is not important. At lower skill levels, speed is greatly reduced, but the penalty gradually reduces until negated at Legendary skill and it's possible to sneak at full movement rate. Chance of detection is also reduced at higher skill levels; a more skilled ambusher can remain in close combat for longer without being detected.

=== Crafting ===

These allow your character to create things. There is only one skill currently available in an unmodified game.

*'''Knapper''' - The fine art of sharpening rocks by banging them together in a clever manner. The resulting rocks become sharp rocks which do more damage when thrown and can be used for things requiring a sharp edge like butchering. Easy to raise in game and doing so helps with Kinesthetic and Spatial Sense.

=== Other ===

*'''[[Reader]]''' - Allows you to read books, signs, and writing in Adventurer mode. Novice level is required in order to become a [[Necromancer]]. There is no way to increase this skill.
*'''[[Butcher]]''' - The art of cutting bodies into many pieces. You cannot allocate points here during character creation.

= Gameplay =

== Common UI Concepts ==
{{KeyConventions|3}}

== Moving Around ==

=== Local Movement ===
[[File:adventure-local-map.png|thumb|400px|The local travel screen. The lower left shows a small overview map of the area. The upper right shows a small area 1 z-level above the adventurer in the middle. The adventurer is standing in front of the door to a house full of humans, and visibility behind the house is obscured. In the upper left is a small box showing the direction to various sites (which may be quite far away).]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|Alt}} and a direction key
| Move carefully / Deliberately enter dangerous terrain
|-
| {{k|<}} or {{k|Shift}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Ascend
|-
| {{k|>}} or {{k|Ctrl}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Descend
|-
| {{k|.}}
| Wait for a step
|-
| {{k|s}}
| Stand or lie down
|-
| {{k|S}}
| Sneak
|}

Unless your character is an outsider, you will start out in a human town or hamlet; in the standard tileset the @ sign is your character. In the lower left-hand corner of the screen is a mini-map, with the @ sign showing your relative location to other things in the town/hamlet. The ▐ symbols are small collections of buildings.

The directional keys allow movement. Diagonal movement is particularly important especially when chasing or running away from things.

Use {{k|Alt}}+direction to enter water, jump off of cliffs, or otherwise attempt to enter anything that you can't enter using normal movement commands. Note that when entering water it's best to enter the actual water and not the open space over the water as, in the later case, you will fall in causing you to become stunned which may lead to drowning.

Hitting {{k|.}} allows you to stay in one place and wait for other things to move.

Use {{k|s}} to sit/lay down. Moving while laying down (crawling) will let you move past NPCs which are standing in your way. Also note that you will frequently get knocked to the ground in combat, and if you don't hit {{k|s}} to stand back up then you will crawl slowly along the ground, giving your opponent a lot of opportunity to attack you.

{{k|S}}neak will allow you to move around invisibly, limited by your Ambusher skill and the Observer skill of nearby creatures. The closer you get to a creature, the more likely you are to be detected. Your movement rate will also be very slow at low Ambusher skill levels while sneaking. If you are within observation range of anything then you will be unable to go into stealth mode. Hiding somewhere you can't be seen (such as the inside edge of a murky pool, if you can swim) will allow you to go into stealth mode when creatures are around.

=== Fast Travel ===
[[Image:adventurer-fast-travel.png|thumb|400px|Fast Travel screen. A fort is on the west side, and a town is on the east side of the map. The regional map is displayed on the far right.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|T}}
| Fast Travel
|-
| {{k|>}}
| Exit fast travel mode
|}

Entering Fast Travel mode will allow you to move large distances in a single keypress. Of course, the same amount of time will go by and you can also be interrupted (ambushed) while moving in fast travel mode.

See the [[Map legend]] for information on what the map symbols mean. Settlements are indicated by {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} tiles and you can find houses by exiting fast travel while standing on one of these tiles. Yellow tiles of the same shape {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} indicate the presence of shops rather than houses.

Pressing {{K|m}} will put a fully zoomed-out map on the right side of the screen, with your current location marked by a blinking "X". When seeking out a quest, move in the direction of the quest site until the blinking "X" is on top of the symbols indicated in the Adventure Log (you can press {{K|Q}} at any time to look at it again).

Along the top of the map is a line showing the sky, and the position of the sun and/or moon from west to east. This primarily helps you determine how long you have before it gets dark at which point you won't be able to see very far and will be more vulnerable to attack.

While in the fast travel screen you can:

* {{k|c}} - Display/hide clouds/weather
* {{k|m}} - Display/hide the regional map on the right
* {{k|Q}} - Display the Quest log
* {{k|Z}} - Display the sleep menu

Other commands are not available until you exit fast travel with {{k|>}}.

== Status and Information ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|l}}
| Look around
|-
| {{k|Space}}
| Advance/Clear Messages
|-
| {{k|a}}
| View Announcements
|-
| {{k|z}}
| Status
|}

=== Looking Around ===

If you're not sure what a tile is, the {{k|l}}ook command will tell you. In addition to being useful for identifying tiles and creatures, you can also view creatures' equipment and what items are sitting on the ground in a given tile. If in doubt, try the look command.

Move the cursor to the tile you want to look at using direction keys and {{k|Shift}}+direction. It's possible to look up and down z-levels (assuming you have line of sight) using the {{k|<}} and {{k|>}} keys. This, for example, allows you to find out if any flying creatures are above you. Hit {{k|Esc}} to exit look mode and go back to movement mode.

=== Messages ===

The game makes frequent use of messages on the screen to tell you what is going on. If there are a lot of these you may need to use {{k|Space}} to display the rest of the messages that won't fit on the screen. You can always go back and view old messages by pressing {{k|a}}.

=== Status Screen ===

This screen shows your skills, attributes, wounded body parts, health (along with more detailed descriptions of your wounds), lets you view your description, and change your nickname if you want.

=== Saving the Game ===

Hit the {{k|Esc}} key at any time and select {{DFtext|Save Game}} to save your game. You can then come back to it later by using the {{DFtext|Continue Playing}} option in the main menu.

== Searching and Manipulating ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|u}}
| Interact with building, furniture, or mechanism
|-
| {{k|L}}
| Search the nearby area very carefully
|}

The {{k|u}} key can be used to do stuff like pull levers in your abandoned forts. It is also used to lower and raise the bucket when standing right next to a well so you can get water to refill your waterskin with.

{{k|L}} will perform a thorough search of the area that you're standing in, possibly revealing some small creatures.

== Managing Equipment ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|i}}
| Show Inventory
|-
| {{k|d}}
| Drop an item
|-
| {{k|g}}
| Get (pickup) an item off the ground
|-
| {{k|p}}
| Put an item into a container
|-
| {{k|r}}
| Remove an item you are wearing or from a container
|-
| {{k|w}}
| Wear an item
|-
| {{k|I}}
| Interact with an object in an advanced way. (unstick a weapon, refill waterskin etc)
|}

=== Inventory ===

Press {{k|i}} to display a list of what you are currently carrying. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list. This list will show you if items are being worn, held in hands, stuck in your body, or are inside a container. Detailed information about an object can be viewed by pressing the key associated with the item.

=== Getting/Dropping Things ===

You can {{k|d}}rop items in your inventory, as well as {{k|g}}et items on the ground on the same tile that you are standing on. If there is more than one item a menu will be listed. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list if the list is too long to fit on the screen.

{{k|g}} will also allow you to ignite foliage/any flammable objects adjacent to you. Fires aren't as devastating as one might imagine, but they will cause (most)enemies to path around them, making your crowd control slightly more effective when taking on multiple enemies. As an added bonus, it will also surely piss off the elves.

=== Containers ===

Items can be placed into containers with {{k|p}} and removed with {{k|r}}.

=== Wearing ===

Items can be worn using {{k|w}} and removed using {{k|r}} (the same command used for removing from containers). If an item you want to wear does not show up as an option, then it means you are already wearing too many items in the location used by that item. Try {{K|r}}emoving items in that location and then wear them again in order of priority.
''Note that "large" or "small" clothing items are too big / small for your race'' (e.g. '''large''' giant cave spider silk sock). If you have that problem, getting clothing from a different source.

After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

See [[Armor]] for more information on wearing things. One thing to note in particular, DF allows you to wear more than one item in the same location in many situations.

=== Wielding ===

There is no command for wielding items such as [[Weapon]]s in specific hands. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapon]]s or [[shield]]s you should drop items or place them into containers (such as your backpack) until your hands are free, then get items from the floor or remove them from containers which will place them in your hands. For example, put all items into backpack, remove sword from backpack, remove shield from backpack. The items will end up in the right and left hand. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

=== Advanced Interaction ===

The {{k|I}} key allows "complex interaction" with objects in your inventory. This is used for removing arrows and weapons stuck in wounds, and refilling waterskins, but in theory various types of objects could implement some sort of behavior to be activated. Basically this is similar to "use" commands in other games.

This command is particularly useful for getting water. When standing next to a well you press the {{k|u}} key to lower, then raise the bucket, yielding 10 units of water in the bucket. Then you can press the {{k|I}} key to fill your waterskin from the full bucket (alternatively you can press the {{k|e}} key to drink directly from the bucket).

More importantly, this can be used next to a campfire to heat things, such as any frozen liquids you have in your inventory(or snow lying on the ground) and need to drink.

== Time and Weather ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|D}}
| Date/Time
|-
| {{k|P}}
| Temperature
|-
| {{k|W}}
| Weather
|}

The game has a day/night cycle with time passing as various actions take place. When in the fast travel screen you can just look at the bar along the top to see where the sun is an estimate the time, but in local travel mode you'll have to use the {{k|W}} command.

When using quick travel mode the top line of the screen will indicate the position of the sun in the sky with a yellow "☼"; further to the right of the screen is earlier in the day and further to the left is later in the day.

At night you won't be able to see nearly as well and you will be more vulnerable to ambush.

The game also has weather and temperature. Weather is, to some extent, directly viewable on the fast travel screen. Temperature is important because if it happens to drop below freezing while you're swimming through water, you're dead instantly. Therefore you might want to keep an eye on the temperature while swimming, especially if it's getting cold. Also, unlike fortress mode, rivers/other bodies of water can be liquid during the day, and freeze at night. The cycles of freezing can also be erratic from day to day.

Weather can also reduce visibility.

== Sleep ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Z}}
| Sleep
|}

Eventually your character will become {{DFtext|Drowsy|3:1}} and this will get worse until you get sufficient sleep.

Sleep does not necessarily have to coincide with night, but if you're traveling alone when night comes you'll be in danger of being attacked by [[bogeymen]]. To avoid this while traveling solo you need to make it to shelter before nightfall and sleep the night away inside a building or abandoned lair. Enter a building, use {{K|k}} to talk to a human, and ask for permission to stay the night. Next press {{K|Z}} to sleep, {{K|d}} to sleep until dawn, then {{K|Enter}} to confirm. ('''NOTE''': If you stay the night in a castle, you have to sleep in the keep which houses the lord/lady of the castle. Sleeping inside the castle but outside the keep still leaves you vulnerable to attack.) Sleeping on an ocean beach also prevents bogeymen from attacking. ('''NOTE''': You can disable bogeymen by going into advanced world builder and setting "Number of Night creatures" to 0)

Though sleeping inside can be safe, it's also limiting: any quest site you want to go to has to be within a daytime's round-trip time of a safe habitation, and you have to make your way to there by hopping from one habitation to the next, sleeping at each along the way. A way to avoid this is to travel with companions. If you have any companions with you then [[bogeymen]] won't attack you. You'll still have to sleep at night, though, both to avoid sleep deprivation and because there's no visibility at night. You can still be ambushed at night by wildlife, but that's much less likely than being ambushed by [[bogeymen]] when traveling alone. If you find yourself alone at night with nowhere safe to sleep, the safest best is to keep traveling until dawn, even if that means running around in circles. You will eventually feel unwell from sleep deprivation, but this can take a considerable time. You can make up for lost sleep once you've found your way to safety.

Note that sleeping in lairs, shrines, and labyrinths makes you safe from ambush, assuming that you or someone has killed whatever was living there. If you have sufficient shrines/lairs/etc between you and your goal and they are either uninhabited or inhabited by things you are capable of killing then you can travel from lair to lair using each lair as a safe lodging. This is much much safer than sleeping out in the open, day or night, even with companions.

If no other options are available, completely surrounding yourself with campfires will keep night marauders at bay as they cannot pass through the fires; the fires will go out after several hours and enable you to move on. The bogeymen or other enemies may be outside your line of sight, which will prevent you from firing arrows or throwing things at them. In this case, you will have to stand up and lie down {{K|s}} repeatedly until the enemies wander into your range, the fires go out and the enemies can path to you, or dawn breaks.

== Food and Drink ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|e}}
| Eat or drink something
|}

The easiest way to stay hydrated and full when starting out is by finding and fighting something weak (say, a vulture, or a raccoon, or a fox). You will almost certainly end up covered in blood. You can drink any liquid covering you using 'e' and then simply selecting the fluid - perhaps a little salty in real life, but in Dwarf Fortress it works. The corpse can then be butchered for edible parts, to cure your hunger - the first two problems are solved. It is possible that drinking vampire blood will lead to infection.

== Combat ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|A}}
| Attack an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|A}} then {{k|Enter}}
| Wrestle an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|f}}
| Fire a projectile
|-
| {{k|t}}
| Throw an item
|-
| {{k|C}}
| Open combat preferences interface
|}

[[Combat]] is the fine art of using physical force to cause injury and death, and it is particularly fun in Dwarf Fortress.

=== Melee Attacks ===

Hostile creatures can be attacked using a non-aimed attack by simply advancing towards your enemy using the arrow keys. Doing a non-aimed attack will also free up any stuck weapon.

Any creature can be attacked by standing next to it and pressing {{k|Shift}}+{{k|A}}. Attacking a friendly or unconscious creature (which includes wild animals for elves) will further require a confirmation, given using {{k|alt}}+{{k|y}}.

Attacking a creature with {{k|A}} will allow you to make an '''aimed attack'''. You must first select the body part that you want to attack. Look at the difficulty rating for various possible attacks. Impossible attacks will be impossible to land and Easier attacks will be very easy to land. The difficulty rating for an attack does not change depending on your weapon skill. Based on player experiences, a Grand Master weapon user can almost always land a "Tricky" strike, while a Novice generally cannot. Attacks on various locations will also have limits on how "squarely" they can land (due to being out of reach, for example). Square and very square attacks will deal more damage.{{Verify}} Attacks which "can't land squarely" are generally still effective.

Attacks aimed at the head are the most effective; a single attack to the cranium with a weapon will usually put an end to the fight. Aimed attacks are especially useful for dismembering opponents. Opponents who are missing a foot will fall over, thereby greatly lowering their speed, and giving you an immediate edge in the fight. Cutting off both hands also highly recommended for obvious reasons. After all, a field full of armless, one-legged enemies can be a big experience booster for your companions.

Aimed attacks are also especially helpful when fighting giant beasts. Some enemies like giant desert scorpions have lots of redundant body parts, and random attacks waste valuable time on low priority areas while the scorpion is busy injecting venom into the whole party. Very large enemies, like giants and hydras, are too tall for effective strikes at the head. Fighting such beasts with random attacks will prove mostly futile until the monster has been knocked over, either due to spinal injuries or loss of feet. Lastly, aimed attacks allow you to grab trophies that are not available via butchering. For example, a minotaur's horns can be cut off during a fight, but since its a humanoid, most adventurers will refuse to butcher its corpse after the fight.

=== Ranged Attacks ===

To attack with a ranged weapon press the {{k|f}} key and select the square where you want to attack. Similarly use the {{k|t}} key to throw any random object in the same manner. Random objects appear to make a random attack if they happen to have more than one possible type.{{Verify}} For example, if you throw a sword it may hit with a blunt impact, a stabbing impact, or a slicing impact. Throwing crossbow bolts with sufficient throwing skill and strength seems to have an affect similar to firing them, although less powerful. On the plus side, you will never lose ammo if you throw it.

It is not possible to aim for specific body parts with ranged or thrown attacks.

Throwing is generally a good skill to have for any adventurer, as it allows you to slow down fleeing foes, both on the ground and in the air without the need of equipping a (cross)bow. Just like {{k|l}}ooking, you can use throwing to view and hit enemies multiple Z levels away from you. If you're lucky, you can simply land a hit that causes the flying enemy to give into pain, and then let gravity do the rest of the work. Even if the fall doesn't kill them, they will most likely be stunned long enough for you to run up and slaughter them.

=== Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks ===

:''Main article: [[Wrestling]]''

'''[[Wrestling]]''' (grappling) can be performed by standing next to an enemy and pressing {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}} to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy. Wrestling works somewhat like a targeted attack. Once you grab a creature by some body part, you may be able to make another wrestling attempt that will allow you to perform a throw or takedown.

For a detailed list of moves such as takedowns, throws, choke holds, etc, see [[Wrestling]].

It's also possible to punch, kick, and bite. These are not in the wrestling menu but are performed like normal targeted attacks with {{k|A}}.

=== Weapons ===

[[Weapon]]s are basically divided into axe, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area.

=== Wounds ===

If you get wounded during combat, there's not much that you can do except perhaps run before you get more wounded. Your wounds will heal over time, so just travel around or sleep in a safe place. Some wounds however may never heal, leaving you permanently crippled. Obtaining a crutch may help with this. Or if you are not already a vampire, then you can get bitten by a werebeast during full moon, which will heal all injuries once per month.

If you have some bolts or arrows stuck in your body, they can be removed by using the complex interaction menu {{k|I}}. Select the stuck bolt or arrow from the list and then pull it out with {{k|a}} You'll probably start bleeding after you pull it out, but the bleeding is rarely anything to worry about.

=== Combat Preferences ===

At any time during gameplay (Except travel mode), you can press {{k|C}} to open the Combat Preferences menu. There are three different preferences you can set: Attack, Dodge and Charge Defense. These have a few different preferences each:

*'''{{k|a}}ttack'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - The default setting. When set to this, charging happens more or less frequently, depending on the difference in size between you and the opponent. Bigger opponents get charged less, smaller more often. Can be very risky, since a random charge against a huge opponent is likely to get you knocked down and stunned. In the same vein, charging when close to obstacles or other environmental hazards is very dangerous, potentially fatal, if the enemy dodges you.
**'''Strike''' - This setting ensures that you never charge an opponent, but rather just swing your weapon at them. This carries less risk than the above, but you're never going to knock anyone down without hitting their legs or spine. Very preferable against large opponents.
**'''Charge''' - When set to this, you ALWAYS charge. When faced with numerous small enemies (Bogeymen in particular), this can be extremely useful, but remember to switch back when facing something bigger. Charging a large dragon is almost a certain death sentence.
**'''Close Combat''' - With this setting, all your auto-attacks are grapples. Generally not very useful, since the random nature of it tends to prevent you from actually doing any damage with it.

*'''{{k|d}}odge'''
**'''Move Around''' - This means you can jump away from attacks, physically moving in a random direction. While this lets you dodge attacks more often, it can also result in you jumping into a wall or down a lake. If you're fighting in really tight spaces, you might want to switch it off.
**'''Stand Ground''' - As can be expected, you stand your ground. No jumping around, which is useful in the above situation, but risky in the open. If you have room for jumping around, go with Move Around, but otherwise this could be a good idea.

*'''{{k|c}}harge Defense'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - Again, the default setting. You're more likely to stand still against small enemies charging, but will probably prefer moving away from larger ones. Somewhat risky, in that even a somewhat small enemy can stun you by charging.
**'''Dodge Away''' - With this, you'll dodge away from charging enemies, if you can. It's not a sure bet, but it's very much worth it against enemies who like to charge. This is probably the most preferable mode, since you're not losing a whole lot by dodging a small foe charging, but dodging an angry night beast can save you from a world of pain.
**'''Stand Ground''' - If you're certain of your physical superiority to the opponent, you can choose this. Standing your ground like a real man/woman might feel hardcore, but getting knocked down in a fight can be extremely dangerous. It probably has some use against bogeymen though, since they're quite small. If you really are much bigger than the enemy, you'll end up knocking THEM down. Most of the time though, charges heavily favor the attacker, so dodging away is probably preferable.

Using Combat Preferences properly can actually save your hide, so it's worth fiddling with. Just don't forget that you've fiddled with them, since a malplaced charge or dodge could end up killing you.

== Talking ==
[[File:adventurer-talking.png|thumb|400px|Talking to someone in Adventurer mode.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|k}}
| Talk to somebody
|}

Now that you know how to kill people, you may also want to know how to talk to and otherwise interact with them in a less violent manner. While this is less entertaining, it can sometimes be useful.

Press {{k|k}} to enter tal{{k|k}} mode. Move the cursor over a being and a list of language-capable beings on that tile will be shown in the lower left of the screen. If there is more than one creature on the tile, you can select the one you want to talk to using the {{k|-}}/{{k|+}} keys. Hit {{k|Enter}} to begin the conversation.

Normally you will need to Greet someone first, then you will have the following options when it comes to subjects of discussion:
*'''Trade''' - Attempt to initiate [[#Shops|trade]]. This only works for NPCs in shops.
*'''Join''' - Ask the individual to join you as one of your [[#Companions|Companions]]. Soldiers will join you 100% of the time if you don't already have too many companions, but the chance of regular townsfolk joining you will be highly impacted by your reputation.
*'''Surroundings''' - Ask about sites and things in the general geographical area. This may reveal hidden sites (such as lairs) on the map, and may also reveal bits of history such as "in 123 Urist McSucker founded Boatmurdered". This can be selected repeatedly to reveal multiple facts about the area.
*'''Capital''' - Ask where the capital of the current civilization is. As with the '''Surroundings''' topic, a random bit of the capitol's history will also be given.
*'''Service''' - Ask for a [[#Quests|quest]].
*'''Profession''' - Ask the individual about their profession. If the person is willing to '''Join''' you, they will add a line such as "How I long for some excitement in my life..".
*'''Family''' - Ask about a random family member. If the person has more than one family member then selecting this option repeatedly will eventually reveal all of them. Like Surroundings this can also reveal bits of information about history such as "Gor Lorthor was my son. In 123, Gor Lorthor was struck down by Trogdor the Flames of Burninating the Dragon."
*'''Accuse of being a night creature''' - If the individual is a vampire in hiding, then they will become hostile to all around them and will fight you. Note, if said vampire has a cult (vampire law-givers always do from what I've seen) the cultists will reveal themselves as well and become hostile to any non-vampire (the one the cult is based around, that is) non-cultist they see, including you.
*'''Report success/spread news''' - This option will only appear once you have completed a quest. Selecting it will cause you to regale people with tales of your amazing adventures, increasing your fame/reputation level. After you have done this once, with one person, the option will not appear again anywhere in any conversation until another quest has been completed. Basically everyone is telepathic and doesn't want to hear the same story again.
*'''Goodbye''' - End the conversation.

Sometimes other options may also appear. Experiment with them and see what happens.

== Companions ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|c}}
| View companion interface
|}

Companions are the guys who follow you around after you've asked them to Join and they've accepted. Your character will have a limit on the maximum number of companions that is based on fame/reputation level and the ''Social Awareness'' attribute. With average social awareness and the maximum level of fame, the limit is 19 companions.

You can use the {{k|c}} key to open up a list showing your companions and their relative position to you. This can be useful if one of them runs off somewhere and you want to find them. You can select specific companions who are in visual range in order to view them. This is the same as viewing them with {{k|l}}ook.

Short of using special utilities and hacks, you can't change your companions' equipment. When they die you can loot their corpses however. (One devious and evil way to get equipment is to intentionally get your companions killed and then take their stuff.)

However, if they survive long enough/are trained well enough they seem to be capable of leveling stats or skills in some way, and are susceptible to having title or job title changed as well.

Your companions will continue to follow you and fight hostile creatures around you until they either die or are left behind by entering fast travel mode while they are too far away from you. Companions with missing feet and legs will attempt to hobble along behind you. If you need to ditch '''ALL''' of your companions, retire your adventurer in a settlement, and start playing that adventurer again. You will lose all companions by doing this(as well as resetting your thirst/hunger/sleep needs.)

If you keep losing your companions while traveling through rivers, try going to a spot where the river becomes a "minor river(single dark blue line.)" Brooks are obviously also safe to cross.

== Civilization ==

Civilizations are organized groups of creatures (generally of the same race) which build sites such as towns.

=== Towns ===

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and shops.

Towns appear on the fast travel map as {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} or {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} symbols which are small collections of buildings. Yellow buildings indicate the presences of shops where you can trade. The buildings can be spaced rather far apart, so even when you get your @ on top of a {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} it might take some wandering about in local travel mode to find a building.

Once you find a building, step through the door. It should have multiple U's, each of which is a human.

=== Fortresses ===

Humans also live in fortresses which appear on the fast travel map as large buildings. You can't walk over them. Instead you must move over to what looks like the entrance, exit fast travel with {{k|>}}, and walk toward the direction of the fortress.

Fortresses, if they haven't been abandoned, will be populated by soldiers, a Lord or Lady of some sort, and possibly others. If they have been abandoned then they may be overrun by various wild animals. They do not contain shops.

If control of a civilization has been taken over by a Demon, the fortress may be empty except for that demon, who acts as the Lord. He will behave as any human lord. Sometimes in an abandoned fort you might also find a demon that is a prisoner, who you can actaully recruit without any significant amount of fame. If they can be trusted or not is more or less up for debate, but it is still better than Urist McFaceplant.

=== Other Sites ===

'''Note:''' Currently, only humans have civilization sites.

Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are two-tile-wide hallways, empty 5x5 rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Shops ===

==== Trading (barter) ====
In human towns (not hamlets or castles), you can find [[building|shops]]. Once you're inside of a shop and right next to any of the NPCs, you can use {{K|k}} to talk to him/her, then select trade. Use {{K|Enter}} to select which items to trade, left/right arrow keys to switch between the list of shop items and your items, and up/down arrow keys to scroll through the lists. Once done, press {{K|t}} to trade. The shopkeeper won't get angry if you're not offering enough in trade, so you can start offering just a few items, keep trying again with a little more until the trade is accepted. Once the trade is accepted all of the items you offered will be on the floor underneath you.

After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it. If NPCs are standing directly over the items you just bought, go prone with the {{K|s}} key so you can move onto the same space as them and pick them up.

Due to some limitations, there are only "human town" shopkeepers in a pre-fab Adventure mode civilization.

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' move a considerable distance before allowing you to quick travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

In recent versions, you may find towns that are entirely deserted. In this case, you can steal from their shops with no consequences.

'''Note that if you steal anything, then nobody in that civilization will talk to you anymore, making it impossible for you to get new quests, use the shops, or get new companions.'''

==== Selling and buying with money ====
In addition to bartering, you can sell items to a shop for coins, then use the coins to buy stuff at another shop. Just select the items you want to sell or buy, and then set a price using the following buttons:
* {{k|a}}sking for money for your goods.
* {{k|o}}ffering money for their goods.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit.

When you end the trade session ({{k|esc}}), the items you sold will be dropped at your feet, and the balance of your coins and the items you bought will appear in your hands.

====Managing coins====
You will find that coins from one civilization are nearly worthless in other civilizations. This will typically result in adventurers carrying around lots of now useless coins. Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first. Alternatively, you can take your excess coinage and use it to purchase [[Gem|large gems]] at a trinket shop. Large gems make good investments because they are 1) light, 2) variably priced, and 3) equally valuable between different civilizations.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most notably giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves or goblins for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world - please harvest responsibly.

==== Where to get items to sell ====
The best place to get items to sell is at bandit camps, after you've slaughtered all the bandits. You can loot the clothes and equipment off of the corpses of the bandits (and off your fallen companions, too), plus at the very center of camp there'll be a few scattered weapons and a few bags/chests containing various goods.

The next best way to get items to sell is to kill non-talking monsters, butcher their corpses (see below for how), and pick up the edible bits. Butchered bits from the corpses of people (dwarves, elves, humans, etc) can sometimes be found in monster lairs and these seem to be just as desired by shopkeepers as the products you gain from your own butchering.

Another good early source of income can be bags left in abandoned houses/shops, which usually contain plants and food.No one will complain, and the plants inside can be sold at about 2☼ each plus the value of the bag.

At the bottom of the list comes {{k|L}}ooking Carefully and selling any small creatures you might find. However, shops will not accept live creatures unless they are in cages. Some rocks, piles of sand, and other things found on the ground nearly everywhere can also be sold for 1☼ each.

You can also try filling your backpack from river - it can hold up to 100 units of water which is worth 100☼ total. After your sell it, water will drop to the floor as a pool, and backpack can be refilled instantly and for free from there. In fact, you can infinitely fill any container from any pool/pile of any liquid/powder, so if you happen to find some precious substance like [[sunshine]] or [[dwarven sugar]], money won't be a problem for you anymore. This may be considered an [[exploit]] by some, though.

== Quests ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Q}}
| Adventure (Quest) log (tasks, map, et cetera...)
|}

Once you have a quest, press {{K|Q}} to look at them (this screen is called the Adventure Log). The world map is on the left, with your current location highlighted by a blinking "O", while on the right is the list of your quests. You can select a quest and press {{K|z}} to find the location of the quest site: the blinking "O" will move to the quest site, with a green line drawing the path you need to take. Pressing {{K|m}} will tell you the species of the monster you're supposed to kill. You can also use the arrow keys to move the "O" around to examine the surrounding terrain and sites.

Note that once you complete a quest that you can report your success to ''any'' human. Once you tell one human, everyone in the same civilization will know about it. The Adventure Log will tell you to report back to a particular hamlet/town/castle, but you can safely ignore that.

If you're having trouble finding the site on the fast travel map for some reason, exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}}. In the upper left-hand corner of the screen will be a box with symbols running down the left-hand side. At the top of the box will be the symbol of your quest site, with the compass direction to the site at to its right, and "TSK" to the right of the direction indicating an unfinished quest at that site. You can then go back into fast travel mode and head in that direction.

Once you get to the quest site, you'll be unable to enter it when using quick travel mode. Attempting to do so will give the message "You cannot travel through the [site]". You must exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}} and move the rest of the way using the normal movement mode. The box in the upper left-hand corner will tell you the direction to go. When you complete the quest the "TSK" will be gone from the site's line in the box, and looking at the Adventure Log ({{K|Q}}) will show "Report Death of ..." instead of "Kill ...". You then have to move off the site using the slow travel method before entering quick travel mode again with {{K|T}} (trying to do so on the site will tell you "You cannot travel until you leave this site".)

The difficulty of the quests a certain civilization will give you goes up as your fame/reputaion with that civilization increases. This is important to remember, you may want to increases your adventurer's skills or gather more companions inbetween quests to keep up with the rising diffuculty level.

==Crafting==
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|x}}
| Perform action (butcher, create item...)
|}

Adventurers can perform limited crafting, (also known as "reactions"). To access the crafting menu, press {{k|x}}.

'''Knapping''' allows an adventurer to sharpen a rock. '''Knapping does not work with stones in containers, only ones on the ground or in your hand.'''<br />Stones can only be {{k|d}}ropped if the stone type does not naturally exist in the biome you are in, so to use ground stones it is worthwhile to {{k|T}}ravel far from the area you {{k|g}}ot the stones. Otherwise, you can place both stones into your hands. This can be achieved by {{k|d}}ropping whatever is held in your left and right hands, then {{k|g}}etting small stones from the ground. Next, press {{k|x}} to open the action menu, and press {{k|c}}reate and then {{k|→}} to select "Make sharp stone". You will be prompted to choose a rock to sharpen ("tool stone"), and then the hammerstone. The tool stone will be replaced in your hand by a sharp version.

'''Butchering''' acts similarly to Fortress Mode's [[Butchery]] by converting a corpse into edible products, bones, and skin. A corpse must be {{k|d}}ropped onto the ground to be butchered, or held in one hand. With a sharp object (such as a dagger or knapped stone or even a bolt/arrow) in your hand or on the same tile of the corpse, press {{k|x}}, {{k|b}}, and {{k|→}} to select the corpse, and then the sharp tool. The corpse will be replaced by its butchering returns.

These are the only reactions possible in an unmodified game though others can be added through modding.

== FAQ ==

===How do I get past NPCs which are in my way?===
Press {{K|s}} to sit, then move to roll between their legs. Once you're done press {{K|s}} to stand again.

===How do I find an entrance to the underworld?===
You cannot find caves by asking for quests. Instead, repeatedly ask NPCs about the surroundings, and they might tell you about the location of a cave. If this doesn't show any caves, travel to a hamlet/town/castle some distance away and try again.

===I keep getting maimed and killed! How can I fight without getting seriously hurt?===
The best offense is a good defense. If you let your enemies attack you, you're (unsurprisingly) likely to get hurt eventually.
* Try to ''avoid fighting difficult enemies until you get some armor''. Don't fight enemies at all unless you're sure you can beat them. If you're unsure, you're probably going to get hurt.
* If you have good speed, try to ''fight enemies one-by-one'' - keep moving backwards and only attack when you're within range of just one enemy.
* If you have a slashing weapon, try to ''chop parts off of your enemy'' - it makes them stop fighting for a turn, allowing you to keep attacking them without being attacked in exchange. Chopping off limbs will also weaken your enemies - taking their arms can prevent them from using weapons, taking their legs can make them slow and knock them down.
* Remember that ''it's better to let your enemy come to you, than to go to your enemy''. You have to either move or attack. If you move, you can't attack, so if you move within range to attack your enemy, you allow them to have the first strike (unless you're much faster than them). On the other hand, if you let them move within range of you, then you get to have the first strike.
* Follow the advice under [[#Combat Preferences|Combat Preferences]].

===How can I obtain armor as quickly as possible?===
* Here's the evil way. If you don't mind causing an entire civilization to be hostile to you (preventing trade, et al, with that civ):
** It's relatively easy to obtain some armor by killing a sleeping soldier in a fort and taking his stuff.
** Most villagers are pretty easy to kill and while their stuff isn't usually too valuable it is worth something. Instead of killing animals you can go around killing villagers and taking their stuff, then travel to another civilization that doesn't know (or maybe care) how evil you are in order to trade.
** Don't try this in the beginning if the next civilization over is more than a day or so away. You need to be able to flee to another country in order to escape justice and continue to quest/trade.
* Pick companions with good equipment so you can "inherit" it when they get killed. Letting them do all of the fighting for a while might help speed up this process. While this might be kind of evil, it's not as evil as the first option and will cause you much less trouble.

<div id="powerleveling"></div>

===How do I increase my skills and attributes? (powerleveling)===

Here are some techniques for raising your skills, very rapidly in some cases.

Most of these skill-raising techniques involve repeatedly entering the same keystrokes. To assist with this you can use a [[Main:Macro|Macro]] to make entering the same sequence of keystrokes over and over again much easier.

Increasing skills increases associated attributes which may in turn benefit other skills. For example, sharpening rocks using {{k|x}} will increase Knapping which will increase a number of attributes that help with combat skills. See [[Attribute#Skills_and_associated_attributes|Skills and Associated Attributes]] for a mostly complete list.

*'''Fighting and Wrestling''' - A good way to raise your Fighting and Wrestling skills and related attributes is to go find a small relatively harmless animal and wrestle with it over and over again. You can wrestle using {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}}. Continually grabbing and releasing a creature is sufficient to raise your skill, and this will not injure the animal so you can do it infinitely with the same one. Wrestling will increase Endurance as well as other stats.
*'''Shield User, Armor User, and Dodging''' - In addition to wrestling the creature, you can also sit and let it attack you to raise your defensive skills. If you have metal armor then a small animal like a gopher can't do any real damage to you even if it hits. Also change your {{K|C}}ombat preferences to "stand ground" to increase the amount of shield blocking you do, unless you want more dodging practice than shield practice.
*'''Weapon Skills and Fighting''' - Once your defensive skills are getting up there and your agility is high enough to make your speed 1300+, you might want to try fighting bogeymen to increase your weapon skill. Just make sure to fight them one at a time while running away. If you don't know what a bogeyman is yet then you are probably not ready to try this. Also, doing difficult targeted shots will gain more experience and keep the training dummy alive longer.
*'''Throwing and Archery''' - Throwing rocks with {{k|t}} will raise your Throwing and Archery skills. Being able to throw objects at creatures, while not terribly devastating (In fact, it used to be. In early 31.xx, somebody killed a bronze colossus by throwing a fluffy wambler at its head. We can only hope the wambler survived.), can still come in handy. Since throwing also raises your archery skill, you can improve your aim with bows and crossbows by throwing, but it is also possible to improve bow/crossbow skills without wasting ammunition.
*'''Marksman, Bowman, and Archery''' - Raising the bow and crossbow weapon-specific skills is best done by shooting at a wall or cliff with no floor in front of it. If bolts or arrows hit a wall that has a floor (or ground) in front of it on the same z-level the ammunition will be destroyed, however ''ammunition that falls at least one z-level after hitting a wall will remain intact.'' So, you just need to find something like a hill inside a castle, stand on the hill, then shoot at the wall on the same z-level that you're on. The arrows will hit the wall and fall one z-level to the ground, remaining intact. You can then go pick up the arrows and fire them at the wall from the hill again, ad infinitum. You can also stand next to a wall that's at least 2 z-levels high, then shoot up a z-level at the wall by hitting {{k|<}} after you hit {{k|f}}. How ever you decide to do it, the key is that the arrow needs to be able to fall at least one z-level after it hits a wall in order to remain intact. Using a macro will speed this up greatly.
*'''Ambushing and Swimming''' - When approaching a camp or other site, you may want to use {{k|S}} to sneak in and loot any loose items first. While it's very slow, you can sneak over large distances instead of using fast travel in order to increase your sneaking skill (Ambushing). It's also possible to sneak and swim at the same time, so training these things can be combined. Just make sure you '''start with at least Adequate in swimming''' or you will find it practically impossible to train swimming.
*'''Observer''' - You can't really powerlevel this skill as it is slow and difficult to train, which is why you're advised to sink some points into it during character creation. One way to train this skill appears to be sleeping or walking around in the wilderness, repeatedly getting ambushed. Running away from the ambush, if you can, will probably allow you to repeat this cycle faster if you live. Detecting traps found in tombs and catacombs successfully (done automatically) will also raise Observer, though without decent starting skill to begin with, you would be torn to pieces by the traps you failed to see. Once you've found one or more traps, it is possible to grind experience by sleeping/waiting an hour, which will reset them, then re-detect them, and repeat.
*'''Spatial and Kinesthetic Sense''' - Sharpening rocks with {{k|x}} will improve your Knapping skills, but more importantly, raising these skills with raise your Spatial Sense and Kinesthetic Sense attributes which help with a number of other skills. This can be combined with throwing, using a macro, to keep your inventory from filling up.
*'''Other Stats''' - Other useful stats like Strength, Agility, and Toughness will increase significantly as the fighting and defense skills increase, so you don't need to do anything other than what you'd normally be doing to increase these.

===I managed to escape but my limbs are chopped off. Now what?===

It's just a fleshwound!

Unfortunately, there is currently no way to get them back, but as long as you have at least one leg and one arm left you can actually do pretty well. First, get a crutch from somewhere, such as a general store, and make sure it's in one of your hands. Once you do that you should be able to {{k|s}}tand back up again. You will notice that your speed is now much slower than before.

Now go find someplace reasonably safe and walk back and forth until your Crutch Walking skill gets up to Legendary or above. You will notice your speed increasing as your skill levels up until your speed is completely back to normal. As a bonus you'll probably see some stat increases as well. You can continue to dodge with a crutch just as well as before.

You can wield a sword, shield, and crutch all in one hand, so even if you are missing an arm then you're all set. If you are missing both arms but still have both legs then unfortunately you'll be limited to biting, dodging, and wrestling with legs. If you're missing both arms and one leg then your movement will be limited and you'll be limited to biting and wrestling with your one remaining leg. And if all limbs are missing then you'll be limited to rolling around on the ground biting things.

Though you might actually be able to do surprisingly well as a Legendary Biter, especially if you powerlevel your strength to the point where you can shake things around by the teeth ripping limbs off, if you lose both legs then your character is going to be severely limited just due to the poor movement rate, so at that point it's probably best to opt for retirement or a glorious death in battle.

Becoming a [[werebeast]] will enable you to regenerate limbs during the transformation to your animal form every Full Moon.
=== How do I keep my companions from running off after random wildlife? ===

In unmodified games, only human companions are typically available and humans currently seem to have the philosophy that all wildlife MUST DIE AN IMMEDIATE BRUTAL DEATH ASAP. While there's currently no way to order them to ignore wildlife and other neutral creatures, you can modify the ''raw\objects\entity_default.txt'' file and add the '''<nowiki>[AT_PEACE_WITH_WILDLIFE]</nowiki>''' to the entity definition for humans. This will cause humans to have an elf-like attitude toward wildlife, and vice versa. Humans will then avoid killing animals and animals will not run away from humans, also giving you somewhat of an advantage when hunting as a human.

Animals... you either love them and they love you, or they must die a horrible death right now.

===How do I become a vampire?===

The only way to become one is to first find one, kill it, and then "eat" its blood. More about vampires [[Vampire|here]].

=See Also=
*[[Main:Adventure Mode quick reference|Adventure Mode quick reference]]
*[[Adventure mode quick start|quick start guide]]

{{Getting Started}}
{{Category|Adventurer mode}}
{{Category|Interface}}

v0.34:Adventurer mode

2012-06-11T20:57:47Z

Riking: /* Wearing */ note about large/small items

{{quality|Exceptional|15:19, 17 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

:''This is a detailed reference guide for Adventurer Mode. For a tutorial see the [[Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide]].
:''See [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] to quickly look up key commands.

In '''adventurer mode''' (also called "adventure mode") you create a single adventurer ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) who starts out somewhere in one of your generated worlds. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[cave]]s, shrines, lairs, abandoned towers, and other [[Site|towns and settlements]]. You can even visit your abandoned [[fortress]]es and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creature]]s that sealed their fate.

Unlike [[fortress mode]], adventurer mode is a sort of advanced [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandbox_game open world] version of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogue_%28computer_game%29 rogue] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nethack nethack] taking place in the same procedurally generated worlds used for fortress mode, but you control a single character in a turn-based manner rather than manage a group of creatures acting in real time.

=World Selection=

You can play Adventurer mode in any world that has a civilization with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token (which are elf, dwarf, and human in unmodded raws) but as of the current version only human civilizations have towns, NPC fortresses, or shops {{v|0.34.07}}. As a result you need at least one human civilization if you want quests or anything but basic wilderness survival. Alternately, you can alter the other races to also use human towns -- see the talk page under "Dwarven Fortresses."

If you have previously built a fort in the world that you select, your adventurer will be able to go visit it. However, the fort must be abandoned because you will not be able to start an adventure mode game in the same world with an active fortress mode game. Note, though, that you can always save your fortress mode game, duplicate the save folder (copy ''regionX'' to ''regionX-copy'' or something), abandon the fortress in the copy of the world, then start adventure mode in the new clone world.

=Character Creation=

==Race and Civilization==

Any race with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token is playable in adventure mode. In an unmodded game this means [[Dwarves]], [[Elves]], and [[Human|Humans]]. All three races can complete the same quests.

*'''Civilized Humans''' begin with bronze or iron weapons and can use any of the items sold by shopkeepers (who, for the time being, are only found in human towns and only sell human-sized clothing/armor). They also start with the widest variety of weapon skills.

*'''Human Outsiders''' can only start with Spear User and Knife User as weapon skills, and they cannot start with Armor User or Shield User. They also start out literally naked with no clothing, but can wear any human-sized armor that they trade for, steal, or loot. "Outsiders" of other races can be played if you add the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|INDIV_CONTROLLABLE]] token to the race's entity definition.

*'''Dwarves''' have the advantage of being able to go into a [[Martial trance|martial trance]] when fighting multiple foes at once. They are the only race which can start with steel weapons, but they wear "small" sized clothing (like goblins and elves) which means that they're unable to wear human clothing and armor found in shops. They can start with almost all of the same weapon skills as civilized humans. Most human-sized weapons (such as longswords) must be wielded two-handed by dwarves, due to their size.

*'''Elves''' start with very weak wooden weapons and have a more limited list of weapon skills during character creation. They have the advantage that they have higher natural speed. Like dwarves they wear small sized clothing so will have the same problem finding suitable armor in shops.

*'''Kobolds''' can be played only if there are no other civilizations and there are kobolds.

If no civilization for the given race exists in a world, you won't be able to play as that race except perhaps as a human outsider.{{Verify}}

== Status ==

Determines the number of starting skill and attribute points, which does not change based on race:
*'''Peasant:''' 15 attribute, 35 skill
*'''Hero:''' 35 attribute, 95 skill
*'''Demigod:''' 105 attribute, 161 skill
The number of skill points is less significant than the number of attribute points because the time it takes to go from Peasant to Demigod in skill terms is much less than what it would take to go from Peasant to Demigod in attribute terms.

== Starting Attributes ==

[[Attribute|Attributes]] are divided into Body and Soul attributes. This section provides some guidance for allocating attributes as it relates to adventurer mode.

=== Body ===

*'''Strength''' - Alters the damage done in melee, increases muscle mass (thicker muscle layer also resists damage more), and increases how much a creature can carry. Increasing strength, at least in adventurers, increases movement speed (albeit not as much as agility) due to better carrying capacity.
*'''Agility''' - This attribute is directly related to a character's Speed and is also used in combat skills.
*'''Toughness''' - Reduces physical damage. Also relates to defensive combat skills.
*'''Endurance''' - Reduces the rate at which the adventurer becomes exhausted. Used in Wrestling.
*'''Recuperation''' - Increases the rate of wound healing. Not as important as Toughness. Recuperation isn't that useful in adventurer mode since you usually have as much time to rest as you need assuming you can escape a situation alive.
*'''Disease Resistance''' - Reduces the risk of disease. Reduces the "risk" of becoming a vampire in adventurer mode.

Strength, Agility, and Toughness are the Body attributes that most impact combat skills, and Endurance to a lesser extent.

=== Soul ===

Some of these are useful for adventure-mode-applicable skills, but some are totally useless except as dump stats. (The useless ones are in ''italics''.)

*'''Analytical Ability''' - Useful for certain crafting skills, the only one currently being Knapping.
*'''Focus''' - Affects Archer, Ambusher, Observer.
*'''Willpower''' - Fighter, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, and helps resist ''pain effects'' such as those caused by chipped bones.
*'''''Creativity''''' - Currently completely useless in adventure mode. Normally it impacts crafting skills.
*'''Intuition''' - Only helps with Observer.
*'''''Patience''''' - Currently useless.
*'''Memory''' - Records more of previously traveled areas when you return to them. Deletes all memory when you travel.
*'''''Linguistic Ability''''' - Currently useless because adventurers don't have social skills.
*'''Spatial Sense''' - Important. Affects combat skills, Ambusher, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, Observer, Knapping.
*'''''Musicality''''' - Completely useless as of yet.
*'''Kinesthetic Sense''' - Important. Combat skills, Crutch Walker, Swimming, Knapping,
*'''Empathy''' - Might increase chance of persuading people to Join you.{{Verify}}
*'''Social Awareness''' - Increases the number of followers you can have at a given "fame" level. Normally you start with a limit of two. Increasing this stat by one level raises that to three.

=== Attribute Advancement Cap ===

Adventure mode attributes are capped at double the starting value or the starting value plus the racial average, whichever is greater. Humans, for example, have a racial average strength of 1,000. If a human adventurer starts with an ''above average'' strength of 1,100, then his strength will ultimately be capped at 2,200. Had this human started with a ''below average'' strength of 900, then his strength would be capped at 1,900 instead. For the purpose of maximizing final attributes, this makes it important to start with as many attributes in the ''superior'' range as possible (more attributes per point allocated), while avoiding taking any penalties to even remotely important attributes (big attribute deductions per point recovered). As a consequence of the attribute cap, demi-god adventurers will always have a much higher potential for advancement than mere peasants and heroes.

== Starting Skills ==

Not all races have the same sets of skills available at character creation time, but keep in mind that all starting [[skill]]s, as well as ones not available at character creation, can be improved through use in game. [[Reader]] is an exception to this.

This section will specifically address starting skills as they relate to adventure mode. For a full description of combat skills see [[Combat skill]]. Other skills that you can't start with, but which can be increased in game (such as Butchery) are described elsewhere.

=== Weapon ===

The weapon you start out with will be based on which of these, plus the unarmed combat skills, is the highest. In other words, even if Swordsman is your highest weapon skill, you won't start with a sword if your Wrestler or Striker skills are better. Usually the best choice anyway is to specialize in just one melee weapon skill.Regardless of weapon skills, a '''large copper dagger''' will always be included in the starting equipment, which is handy for throwing to enemies that are just a step away or finishing off a foe pinned down by a stuck weapon.

Because these tend to take a bit longer to increase in game, it makes sense to put some points into one at the beginning.

Not all races/civilizations can start with all of these skills. (For example, Dwarves can't start with Bowman or Lasher).

*'''Axeman''' - allows characters to use axes, great axes, and halberds more effectively.
*'''Bowman''' - skill allows characters to use bows more effectively.
*'''Crossbowman''' - allows characters to use crossbows more effectively. The dwarven version is called '''Marksdwarf'''.
*'''Hammerman''' - allows characters to use crossbows in melee, mauls, and war hammers more effectively.
*'''Knife User''' - allows characters to use large daggers and knives more effectively.
*'''Lasher''' - allows characters to use whips and scourges more effectively.
*'''Maceman''' - allows characters to use flails, maces, and morningstars more effectively.
*'''Pikeman''' - allows characters to use pikes more effectively.
*'''Spearman''' - allows characters to use spears more effectively.
*'''Swordsman''' - allows characters to use blowguns and bows in melee, long swords, scimitars, short swords, and two-handed swords more effectively.

=== General Combat ===

These two skills can be raised rather quickly in game and so you probably want to skip spending any points on them at the start.

*'''Fighter''' - This increases with, and contributes to, melee combat whether armed or unarmed. It appears that the purpose of it is to allow melee experience to contribute to melee combat in general regardless of weapon. Repeatedly wrestling (grabbing and releasing) even a small creature will raise this skill.
*'''Archer''' - This increases with, and contributes to, ranged combat including throwing. It works similarly to Fighter except for ranged attacks. It can be easily raised by repeatedly throwing rocks, making it advisable for archers to practice their marksmanship with rock throwing before using up the more finite and expensive forms of ammunition. Shooting at a wall with adjacent upward ramp one level below and picking back projectiles is also a good idea (such places often happen to be in castles). See the FAQ section on [[#powerleveling|powerleveling]] for information on raising bowman/marksman skills.

=== Defensive ===

These skills are critical for survival. Starting out with good ability in one (especially Shield User or Armor User) if not all is strongly advised.

*'''Shield User''' - Ability to block attacks with shields. Starting with skill in this means that the adventurer will start with a shield.
*'''Armor User''' - Related to how well an adventurer moves in armor, and increases whenever an adventurer wearing armor is attacked. A higher level of this skill reduces the encumbrance penalties of armor, allowing up to normal speed movement when wearing full steel plate. Unfortunately, starting with this skill does not provide any starting armor.
*'''Dodger''' - Ability to dodge out of the way of attacks.

=== Unarmed Combat and Improvised Weapons ===

While some of them come in handy at times, they can generally be raised fairly easily in game, especially Wrestler and Thrower.

*'''Wrestler''' - Ability to grapple, restrain, take-down, throw opponents, etc. See [[#Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks]] for details. Can be raised very easily in game.
*'''Striker''' - Punching ability.
*'''Kicker''' - Kicking ability.
*'''Biter''' - Biting ability.
*'''Thrower''' - Throwing any miscellaneous object including rocks, knives, axes, swords, heads, etc.
*'''Misc. Object User''' - Ability to beat things to death with their own severed body parts, basically. Also somewhat more commonly used for shield bashing.

=== Movement and Awareness ===

*'''[[Observer]]''' - Helps one to notice things like ambushes and enemies who are "sneaking" (stealth movement). Detection range increases with skill. Hard to train. Adding some points here is advisable.
*'''[[Swimmer]]''' - Allows movement through water without drowning. A Novice swimmer can swim but will revert to being unable to swim if stunned, which happens when falling even 1 z-level into the water. An Adequate swimmer can swim normally (not drown) while stunned. For this reason, ''starting out as an Adequate swimmer is advisable.'' If you don't, at least start as Novice and go get some swimming practice right away.
*'''[[Ambusher]]''' - The skill of {{K|S}}neaking around unobserved. This can be raised fairly easily by sneaking around while traveling from place to place when speed is not important. At lower skill levels, speed is greatly reduced, but the penalty gradually reduces until negated at Legendary skill and it's possible to sneak at full movement rate. Chance of detection is also reduced at higher skill levels; a more skilled ambusher can remain in close combat for longer without being detected.

=== Crafting ===

These allow your character to create things. There is only one skill currently available in an unmodified game.

*'''Knapper''' - The fine art of sharpening rocks by banging them together in a clever manner. The resulting rocks become sharp rocks which do more damage when thrown and can be used for things requiring a sharp edge like butchering. Easy to raise in game and doing so helps with Kinesthetic and Spatial Sense.

=== Other ===

*'''[[Reader]]''' - Allows you to read books, signs, and writing in Adventurer mode. Novice level is required in order to become a [[Necromancer]]. There is no way to increase this skill.
*'''[[Butcher]]''' - The art of cutting bodies into many pieces. You cannot allocate points here during character creation.

= Gameplay =

== Common UI Concepts ==
{{KeyConventions|3}}

== Moving Around ==

=== Local Movement ===
[[File:adventure-local-map.png|thumb|400px|The local travel screen. The lower left shows a small overview map of the area. The upper right shows a small area 1 z-level above the adventurer in the middle. The adventurer is standing in front of the door to a house full of humans, and visibility behind the house is obscured. In the upper left is a small box showing the direction to various sites (which may be quite far away).]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|Alt}} and a direction key
| Move carefully / Deliberately enter dangerous terrain
|-
| {{k|<}} or {{k|Shift}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Ascend
|-
| {{k|>}} or {{k|Ctrl}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Descend
|-
| {{k|.}}
| Wait for a step
|-
| {{k|s}}
| Stand or lie down
|-
| {{k|S}}
| Sneak
|}

Unless your character is an outsider, you will start out in a human town or hamlet; in the standard tileset the @ sign is your character. In the lower left-hand corner of the screen is a mini-map, with the @ sign showing your relative location to other things in the town/hamlet. The ▐ symbols are small collections of buildings.

The directional keys allow movement. Diagonal movement is particularly important especially when chasing or running away from things.

Use {{k|Alt}}+direction to enter water, jump off of cliffs, or otherwise attempt to enter anything that you can't enter using normal movement commands. Note that when entering water it's best to enter the actual water and not the open space over the water as, in the later case, you will fall in causing you to become stunned which may lead to drowning.

Hitting {{k|.}} allows you to stay in one place and wait for other things to move.

Use {{k|s}} to sit/lay down. Moving while laying down (crawling) will let you move past NPCs which are standing in your way. Also note that you will frequently get knocked to the ground in combat, and if you don't hit {{k|s}} to stand back up then you will crawl slowly along the ground, giving your opponent a lot of opportunity to attack you.

{{k|S}}neak will allow you to move around invisibly, limited by your Ambusher skill and the Observer skill of nearby creatures. The closer you get to a creature, the more likely you are to be detected. Your movement rate will also be very slow at low Ambusher skill levels while sneaking. If you are within observation range of anything then you will be unable to go into stealth mode. Hiding somewhere you can't be seen (such as the inside edge of a murky pool, if you can swim) will allow you to go into stealth mode when creatures are around.

=== Fast Travel ===
[[Image:adventurer-fast-travel.png|thumb|400px|Fast Travel screen. A fort is on the west side, and a town is on the east side of the map. The regional map is displayed on the far right.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|T}}
| Fast Travel
|-
| {{k|>}}
| Exit fast travel mode
|}

Entering Fast Travel mode will allow you to move large distances in a single keypress. Of course, the same amount of time will go by and you can also be interrupted (ambushed) while moving in fast travel mode.

See the [[Map legend]] for information on what the map symbols mean. Settlements are indicated by {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} tiles and you can find houses by exiting fast travel while standing on one of these tiles. Yellow tiles of the same shape {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} indicate the presence of shops rather than houses.

Pressing {{K|m}} will put a fully zoomed-out map on the right side of the screen, with your current location marked by a blinking "X". When seeking out a quest, move in the direction of the quest site until the blinking "X" is on top of the symbols indicated in the Adventure Log (you can press {{K|Q}} at any time to look at it again).

Along the top of the map is a line showing the sky, and the position of the sun and/or moon from west to east. This primarily helps you determine how long you have before it gets dark at which point you won't be able to see very far and will be more vulnerable to attack.

While in the fast travel screen you can:

* {{k|c}} - Display/hide clouds/weather
* {{k|m}} - Display/hide the regional map on the right
* {{k|Q}} - Display the Quest log
* {{k|Z}} - Display the sleep menu

Other commands are not available until you exit fast travel with {{k|>}}.

== Status and Information ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|l}}
| Look around
|-
| {{k|Space}}
| Advance/Clear Messages
|-
| {{k|a}}
| View Announcements
|-
| {{k|z}}
| Status
|}

=== Looking Around ===

If you're not sure what a tile is, the {{k|l}}ook command will tell you. In addition to being useful for identifying tiles and creatures, you can also view creatures' equipment and what items are sitting on the ground in a given tile. If in doubt, try the look command.

Move the cursor to the tile you want to look at using direction keys and {{k|Shift}}+direction. It's possible to look up and down z-levels (assuming you have line of sight) using the {{k|<}} and {{k|>}} keys. This, for example, allows you to find out if any flying creatures are above you. Hit {{k|Esc}} to exit look mode and go back to movement mode.

=== Messages ===

The game makes frequent use of messages on the screen to tell you what is going on. If there are a lot of these you may need to use {{k|Space}} to display the rest of the messages that won't fit on the screen. You can always go back and view old messages by pressing {{k|a}}.

=== Status Screen ===

This screen shows your skills, attributes, wounded body parts, health (along with more detailed descriptions of your wounds), lets you view your description, and change your nickname if you want.

=== Saving the Game ===

Hit the {{k|Esc}} key at any time and select {{DFtext|Save Game}} to save your game. You can then come back to it later by using the {{DFtext|Continue Playing}} option in the main menu.

== Searching and Manipulating ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|u}}
| Interact with building, furniture, or mechanism
|-
| {{k|L}}
| Search the nearby area very carefully
|}

The {{k|u}} key can be used to do stuff like pull levers in your abandoned forts. It is also used to lower and raise the bucket when standing right next to a well so you can get water to refill your waterskin with.

{{k|L}} will perform a thorough search of the area that you're standing in, possibly revealing some small creatures.

== Managing Equipment ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|i}}
| Show Inventory
|-
| {{k|d}}
| Drop an item
|-
| {{k|g}}
| Get (pickup) an item off the ground
|-
| {{k|p}}
| Put an item into a container
|-
| {{k|r}}
| Remove an item you are wearing or from a container
|-
| {{k|w}}
| Wear an item
|-
| {{k|I}}
| Interact with an object in an advanced way. (unstick a weapon, refill waterskin etc)
|}

=== Inventory ===

Press {{k|i}} to display a list of what you are currently carrying. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list. This list will show you if items are being worn, held in hands, stuck in your body, or are inside a container. Detailed information about an object can be viewed by pressing the key associated with the item.

=== Getting/Dropping Things ===

You can {{k|d}}rop items in your inventory, as well as {{k|g}}et items on the ground on the same tile that you are standing on. If there is more than one item a menu will be listed. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list if the list is too long to fit on the screen.

{{k|g}} will also allow you to ignite foliage/any flammable objects adjacent to you. Fires aren't as devastating as one might imagine, but they will cause (most)enemies to path around them, making your crowd control slightly more effective when taking on multiple enemies. As an added bonus, it will also surely piss off the elves.

=== Containers ===

Items can be placed into containers with {{k|p}} and removed with {{k|r}}.

=== Wearing ===

Items can be worn using {{k|w}} and removed using {{k|r}} (the same command used for removing from containers). If an item you want to wear does not show up as an option, then it means you are already wearing too many items in the location used by that item. Try {{K|r}}emoving items in that location and then wear them again in order of priority.
''Note that "large" or "small" clothing items are too big / small for your race'' (e.g. '''large''' giant cave spider silk sock). If you have that problem, getting clothing from a different source.

After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

See [[Armor]] for more information on wearing things. One thing to note in particular, DF allows you to wear more than one item in the same location in many situations.

=== Wielding ===

There is no command for wielding items such as [[Weapon]]s in specific hands. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapon]]s or [[shield]]s you should drop items or place them into containers (such as your backpack) until your hands are free, then get items from the floor or remove them from containers which will place them in your hands. For example, put all items into backpack, remove sword from backpack, remove shield from backpack. The items will end up in the right and left hand. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

=== Advanced Interaction ===

The {{k|I}} key allows "complex interaction" with objects in your inventory. This is used for removing arrows and weapons stuck in wounds, and refilling waterskins, but in theory various types of objects could implement some sort of behavior to be activated. Basically this is similar to "use" commands in other games.

This command is particularly useful for getting water. When standing next to a well you press the {{k|u}} key to lower, then raise the bucket, yielding 10 units of water in the bucket. Then you can press the {{k|I}} key to fill your waterskin from the full bucket (alternatively you can press the {{k|e}} key to drink directly from the bucket).

More importantly, this can be used next to a campfire to heat things, such as any frozen liquids you have in your inventory(or snow lying on the ground) and need to drink.

== Time and Weather ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|D}}
| Date/Time
|-
| {{k|P}}
| Temperature
|-
| {{k|W}}
| Weather
|}

The game has a day/night cycle with time passing as various actions take place. When in the fast travel screen you can just look at the bar along the top to see where the sun is an estimate the time, but in local travel mode you'll have to use the {{k|W}} command.

When using quick travel mode the top line of the screen will indicate the position of the sun in the sky with a yellow "☼"; further to the right of the screen is earlier in the day and further to the left is later in the day.

At night you won't be able to see nearly as well and you will be more vulnerable to ambush.

The game also has weather and temperature. Weather is, to some extent, directly viewable on the fast travel screen. Temperature is important because if it happens to drop below freezing while you're swimming through water, you're dead instantly. Therefore you might want to keep an eye on the temperature while swimming, especially if it's getting cold. Also, unlike fortress mode, rivers/other bodies of water can be liquid during the day, and freeze at night. The cycles of freezing can also be erratic from day to day.

Weather can also reduce visibility.

== Sleep ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Z}}
| Sleep
|}

Eventually your character will become {{DFtext|Drowsy|3:1}} and this will get worse until you get sufficient sleep.

Sleep does not necessarily have to coincide with night, but if you're traveling alone when night comes you'll be in danger of being attacked by [[bogeymen]]. To avoid this while traveling solo you need to make it to shelter before nightfall and sleep the night away inside a building or abandoned lair. Enter a building, use {{K|k}} to talk to a human, and ask for permission to stay the night. Next press {{K|Z}} to sleep, {{K|d}} to sleep until dawn, then {{K|Enter}} to confirm. ('''NOTE''': If you stay the night in a castle, you have to sleep in the keep which houses the lord/lady of the castle. Sleeping inside the castle but outside the keep still leaves you vulnerable to attack.) Sleeping on an ocean beach also prevents bogeymen from attacking. ('''NOTE''': You can disable bogeymen by going into advanced world builder and setting "Number of Night creatures" to 0)

Though sleeping inside can be safe, it's also limiting: any quest site you want to go to has to be within a daytime's round-trip time of a safe habitation, and you have to make your way to there by hopping from one habitation to the next, sleeping at each along the way. A way to avoid this is to travel with companions. If you have any companions with you then [[bogeymen]] won't attack you. You'll still have to sleep at night, though, both to avoid sleep deprivation and because there's no visibility at night. You can still be ambushed at night by wildlife, but that's much less likely than being ambushed by [[bogeymen]] when traveling alone. If you find yourself alone at night with nowhere safe to sleep, the safest best is to keep traveling until dawn, even if that means running around in circles. You will eventually feel unwell from sleep deprivation, but this can take a considerable time. You can make up for lost sleep once you've found your way to safety.

Note that sleeping in lairs, shrines, and labyrinths makes you safe from ambush, assuming that you or someone has killed whatever was living there. If you have sufficient shrines/lairs/etc between you and your goal and they are either uninhabited or inhabited by things you are capable of killing then you can travel from lair to lair using each lair as a safe lodging. This is much much safer than sleeping out in the open, day or night, even with companions.

If no other options are available, completely surrounding yourself with campfires will keep night marauders at bay as they cannot pass through the fires; the fires will go out after several hours and enable you to move on. The bogeymen or other enemies may be outside your line of sight, which will prevent you from firing arrows or throwing things at them. In this case, you will have to stand up and lie down {{K|s}} repeatedly until the enemies wander into your range, the fires go out and the enemies can path to you, or dawn breaks.

== Food and Drink ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|e}}
| Eat or drink something
|}

The easiest way to stay hydrated and full when starting out is by finding and fighting something weak (say, a vulture, or a raccoon, or a fox). You will almost certainly end up covered in blood. You can drink any liquid covering you using 'e' and then simply selecting the fluid - perhaps a little salty in real life, but in Dwarf Fortress it works. The corpse can then be butchered for edible parts, to cure your hunger - the first two problems are solved. It is possible that drinking vampire blood will lead to infection.

== Combat ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|A}}
| Attack an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|A}} then {{k|Enter}}
| Wrestle an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|f}}
| Fire a projectile
|-
| {{k|t}}
| Throw an item
|-
| {{k|C}}
| Open combat preferences interface
|}

[[Combat]] is the fine art of using physical force to cause injury and death, and it is particularly fun in Dwarf Fortress.

=== Melee Attacks ===

Hostile creatures can be attacked using a non-aimed attack by simply advancing towards your enemy using the arrow keys. Doing a non-aimed attack will also free up any stuck weapon.

Any creature can be attacked by standing next to it and pressing {{k|Shift}}+{{k|A}}. Attacking a friendly or unconscious creature (which includes wild animals for elves) will further require a confirmation, given using {{k|alt}}+{{k|y}}.

Attacking a creature with {{k|A}} will allow you to make an '''aimed attack'''. You must first select the body part that you want to attack. Look at the difficulty rating for various possible attacks. Impossible attacks will be impossible to land and Easier attacks will be very easy to land. The difficulty rating for an attack does not change depending on your weapon skill. Based on player experiences, a Grand Master weapon user can almost always land a "Tricky" strike, while a Novice generally cannot. Attacks on various locations will also have limits on how "squarely" they can land (due to being out of reach, for example). Square and very square attacks will deal more damage.{{Verify}} Attacks which "can't land squarely" are generally still effective.

Attacks aimed at the head are the most effective; a single attack to the cranium with a weapon will usually put an end to the fight. Aimed attacks are especially useful for dismembering opponents. Opponents who are missing a foot will fall over, thereby greatly lowering their speed, and giving you an immediate edge in the fight. Cutting off both hands also highly recommended for obvious reasons. After all, a field full of armless, one-legged enemies can be a big experience booster for your companions.

Aimed attacks are also especially helpful when fighting giant beasts. Some enemies like giant desert scorpions have lots of redundant body parts, and random attacks waste valuable time on low priority areas while the scorpion is busy injecting venom into the whole party. Very large enemies, like giants and hydras, are too tall for effective strikes at the head. Fighting such beasts with random attacks will prove mostly futile until the monster has been knocked over, either due to spinal injuries or loss of feet. Lastly, aimed attacks allow you to grab trophies that are not available via butchering. For example, a minotaur's horns can be cut off during a fight, but since its a humanoid, most adventurers will refuse to butcher its corpse after the fight.

=== Ranged Attacks ===

To attack with a ranged weapon press the {{k|f}} key and select the square where you want to attack. Similarly use the {{k|t}} key to throw any random object in the same manner. Random objects appear to make a random attack if they happen to have more than one possible type.{{Verify}} For example, if you throw a sword it may hit with a blunt impact, a stabbing impact, or a slicing impact. Throwing crossbow bolts with sufficient throwing skill and strength seems to have an affect similar to firing them, although less powerful. On the plus side, you will never lose ammo if you throw it.

It is not possible to aim for specific body parts with ranged or thrown attacks.

Throwing is generally a good skill to have for any adventurer, as it allows you to slow down fleeing foes, both on the ground and in the air without the need of equipping a (cross)bow. Just like {{k|l}}ooking, you can use throwing to view and hit enemies multiple Z levels away from you. If you're lucky, you can simply land a hit that causes the flying enemy to give into pain, and then let gravity do the rest of the work. Even if the fall doesn't kill them, they will most likely be stunned long enough for you to run up and slaughter them.

=== Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks ===

:''Main article: [[Wrestling]]''

'''[[Wrestling]]''' (grappling) can be performed by standing next to an enemy and pressing {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}} to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy. Wrestling works somewhat like a targeted attack. Once you grab a creature by some body part, you may be able to make another wrestling attempt that will allow you to perform a throw or takedown.

For a detailed list of moves such as takedowns, throws, choke holds, etc, see [[Wrestling]].

It's also possible to punch, kick, and bite. These are not in the wrestling menu but are performed like normal targeted attacks with {{k|A}}.

=== Weapons ===

[[Weapon]]s are basically divided into axe, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area.

=== Wounds ===

If you get wounded during combat, there's not much that you can do except perhaps run before you get more wounded. Your wounds will heal over time, so just travel around or sleep in a safe place. Some wounds however may never heal, leaving you permanently crippled. Obtaining a crutch may help with this. Or if you are not already a vampire, then you can get bitten by a werebeast during full moon, which will heal all injuries once per month.

If you have some bolts or arrows stuck in your body, they can be removed by using the complex interaction menu {{k|I}}. Select the stuck bolt or arrow from the list and then pull it out with {{k|a}} You'll probably start bleeding after you pull it out, but the bleeding is rarely anything to worry about.

=== Combat Preferences ===

At any time during gameplay (Except travel mode), you can press {{k|C}} to open the Combat Preferences menu. There are three different preferences you can set: Attack, Dodge and Charge Defense. These have a few different preferences each:

*'''{{k|a}}ttack'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - The default setting. When set to this, charging happens more or less frequently, depending on the difference in size between you and the opponent. Bigger opponents get charged less, smaller more often. Can be very risky, since a random charge against a huge opponent is likely to get you knocked down and stunned. In the same vein, charging when close to obstacles or other environmental hazards is very dangerous, potentially fatal, if the enemy dodges you.
**'''Strike''' - This setting ensures that you never charge an opponent, but rather just swing your weapon at them. This carries less risk than the above, but you're never going to knock anyone down without hitting their legs or spine. Very preferable against large opponents.
**'''Charge''' - When set to this, you ALWAYS charge. When faced with numerous small enemies (Bogeymen in particular), this can be extremely useful, but remember to switch back when facing something bigger. Charging a large dragon is almost a certain death sentence.
**'''Close Combat''' - With this setting, all your auto-attacks are grapples. Generally not very useful, since the random nature of it tends to prevent you from actually doing any damage with it.

*'''{{k|d}}odge'''
**'''Move Around''' - This means you can jump away from attacks, physically moving in a random direction. While this lets you dodge attacks more often, it can also result in you jumping into a wall or down a lake. If you're fighting in really tight spaces, you might want to switch it off.
**'''Stand Ground''' - As can be expected, you stand your ground. No jumping around, which is useful in the above situation, but risky in the open. If you have room for jumping around, go with Move Around, but otherwise this could be a good idea.

*'''{{k|c}}harge Defense'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - Again, the default setting. You're more likely to stand still against small enemies charging, but will probably prefer moving away from larger ones. Somewhat risky, in that even a somewhat small enemy can stun you by charging.
**'''Dodge Away''' - With this, you'll dodge away from charging enemies, if you can. It's not a sure bet, but it's very much worth it against enemies who like to charge. This is probably the most preferable mode, since you're not losing a whole lot by dodging a small foe charging, but dodging an angry night beast can save you from a world of pain.
**'''Stand Ground''' - If you're certain of your physical superiority to the opponent, you can choose this. Standing your ground like a real man/woman might feel hardcore, but getting knocked down in a fight can be extremely dangerous. It probably has some use against bogeymen though, since they're quite small. If you really are much bigger than the enemy, you'll end up knocking THEM down. Most of the time though, charges heavily favor the attacker, so dodging away is probably preferable.

Using Combat Preferences properly can actually save your hide, so it's worth fiddling with. Just don't forget that you've fiddled with them, since a malplaced charge or dodge could end up killing you.

== Talking ==
[[File:adventurer-talking.png|thumb|400px|Talking to someone in Adventurer mode.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|k}}
| Talk to somebody
|}

Now that you know how to kill people, you may also want to know how to talk to and otherwise interact with them in a less violent manner. While this is less entertaining, it can sometimes be useful.

Press {{k|k}} to enter tal{{k|k}} mode. Move the cursor over a being and a list of language-capable beings on that tile will be shown in the lower left of the screen. If there is more than one creature on the tile, you can select the one you want to talk to using the {{k|-}}/{{k|+}} keys. Hit {{k|Enter}} to begin the conversation.

Normally you will need to Greet someone first, then you will have the following options when it comes to subjects of discussion:
*'''Trade''' - Attempt to initiate [[#Shops|trade]]. This only works for NPCs in shops.
*'''Join''' - Ask the individual to join you as one of your [[#Companions|Companions]]. Soldiers will join you 100% of the time if you don't already have too many companions, but the chance of regular townsfolk joining you will be highly impacted by your reputation.
*'''Surroundings''' - Ask about sites and things in the general geographical area. This may reveal hidden sites (such as lairs) on the map, and may also reveal bits of history such as "in 123 Urist McSucker founded Boatmurdered". This can be selected repeatedly to reveal multiple facts about the area.
*'''Capital''' - Ask where the capital of the current civilization is. As with the '''Surroundings''' topic, a random bit of the capitol's history will also be given.
*'''Service''' - Ask for a [[#Quests|quest]].
*'''Profession''' - Ask the individual about their profession. If the person is willing to '''Join''' you, they will add a line such as "How I long for some excitement in my life..".
*'''Family''' - Ask about a random family member. If the person has more than one family member then selecting this option repeatedly will eventually reveal all of them. Like Surroundings this can also reveal bits of information about history such as "Gor Lorthor was my son. In 123, Gor Lorthor was struck down by Trogdor the Flames of Burninating the Dragon."
*'''Accuse of being a night creature''' - If the individual is a vampire in hiding, then they will become hostile to all around them and will fight you. Note, if said vampire has a cult (vampire law-givers always do from what I've seen) the cultists will reveal themselves as well and become hostile to any non-vampire (the one the cult is based around, that is) non-cultist they see, including you.
*'''Report success/spread news''' - This option will only appear once you have completed a quest. Selecting it will cause you to regale people with tales of your amazing adventures, increasing your fame/reputation level. After you have done this once, with one person, the option will not appear again anywhere in any conversation until another quest has been completed. Basically everyone is telepathic and doesn't want to hear the same story again.
*'''Goodbye''' - End the conversation.

Sometimes other options may also appear. Experiment with them and see what happens.

== Companions ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|c}}
| View companion interface
|}

Companions are the guys who follow you around after you've asked them to Join and they've accepted. Your character will have a limit on the maximum number of companions that is based on fame/reputation level and the ''Social Awareness'' attribute. With average social awareness and the maximum level of fame, the limit is 19 companions.

You can use the {{k|c}} key to open up a list showing your companions and their relative position to you. This can be useful if one of them runs off somewhere and you want to find them. You can select specific companions who are in visual range in order to view them. This is the same as viewing them with {{k|l}}ook.

Short of using special utilities and hacks, you can't change your companions' equipment. When they die you can loot their corpses however. (One devious and evil way to get equipment is to intentionally get your companions killed and then take their stuff.)

However, if they survive long enough/are trained well enough they seem to be capable of leveling stats or skills in some way, and are susceptible to having title or job title changed as well.

Your companions will continue to follow you and fight hostile creatures around you until they either die or are left behind by entering fast travel mode while they are too far away from you. Companions with missing feet and legs will attempt to hobble along behind you. If you need to ditch '''ALL''' of your companions, retire your adventurer in a settlement, and start playing that adventurer again. You will lose all companions by doing this(as well as resetting your thirst/hunger/sleep needs.)

If you keep losing your companions while traveling through rivers, try going to a spot where the river becomes a "minor river(single dark blue line.)" Brooks are obviously also safe to cross.

== Civilization ==

Civilizations are organized groups of creatures (generally of the same race) which build sites such as towns.

=== Towns ===

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and shops.

Towns appear on the fast travel map as {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} or {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} symbols which are small collections of buildings. Yellow buildings indicate the presences of shops where you can trade. The buildings can be spaced rather far apart, so even when you get your @ on top of a {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} it might take some wandering about in local travel mode to find a building.

Once you find a building, step through the door. It should have multiple U's, each of which is a human.

=== Fortresses ===

Humans also live in fortresses which appear on the fast travel map as large buildings. You can't walk over them. Instead you must move over to what looks like the entrance, exit fast travel with {{k|>}}, and walk toward the direction of the fortress.

Fortresses, if they haven't been abandoned, will be populated by soldiers, a Lord or Lady of some sort, and possibly others. If they have been abandoned then they may be overrun by various wild animals. They do not contain shops.

If control of a civilization has been taken over by a Demon, the fortress may be empty except for that demon, who acts as the Lord. He will behave as any human lord. Sometimes in an abandoned fort you might also find a demon that is a prisoner, who you can actaully recruit without any significant amount of fame. If they can be trusted or not is more or less up for debate, but it is still better than Urist McFaceplant.

=== Other Sites ===

'''Note:''' Currently, only humans have civilization sites.

Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are two-tile-wide hallways, empty 5x5 rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Shops ===

==== Trading (barter) ====
In human towns (not hamlets or castles), you can find [[building|shops]]. Once you're inside of a shop and right next to any of the NPCs, you can use {{K|k}} to talk to him/her, then select trade. Use {{K|Enter}} to select which items to trade, left/right arrow keys to switch between the list of shop items and your items, and up/down arrow keys to scroll through the lists. Once done, press {{K|t}} to trade. The shopkeeper won't get angry if you're not offering enough in trade, so you can start offering just a few items, keep trying again with a little more until the trade is accepted. Once the trade is accepted all of the items you offered will be on the floor underneath you.

After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it. If NPCs are standing directly over the items you just bought, go prone with the {{K|s}} key so you can move onto the same space as them and pick them up.

Due to some limitations, there are only "human town" shopkeepers in a pre-fab Adventure mode civilization.

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' move a considerable distance before allowing you to quick travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

In recent versions, you may find towns that are entirely deserted. In this case, you can steal from their shops with no consequences.

'''Note that if you steal anything, then nobody in that civilization will talk to you anymore, making it impossible for you to get new quests, use the shops, or get new companions.'''

==== Selling and buying with money ====
In addition to bartering, you can sell items to a shop for coins, then use the coins to buy stuff at another shop. Just select the items you want to sell or buy, and then set a price using the following buttons:
* {{k|a}}sking for money for your goods.
* {{k|o}}ffering money for their goods.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit.

When you end the trade session ({{k|esc}}), the items you sold will be dropped at your feet, and the balance of your coins and the items you bought will appear in your hands.

====Managing coins====
You will find that coins from one civilization are nearly worthless in other civilizations. This will typically result in adventurers carrying around lots of now useless coins. Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first. Alternatively, you can take your excess coinage and use it to purchase [[Gem|large gems]] at a trinket shop. Large gems make good investments because they are 1) light, 2) variably priced, and 3) equally valuable between different civilizations.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most notably giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves or goblins for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world - please harvest responsibly.

==== Where to get items to sell ====
The best place to get items to sell is at bandit camps, after you've slaughtered all the bandits. You can loot the clothes and equipment off of the corpses of the bandits (and off your fallen companions, too), plus at the very center of camp there'll be a few scattered weapons and a few bags/chests containing various goods.

The next best way to get items to sell is to kill non-talking monsters, butcher their corpses (see below for how), and pick up the edible bits. Butchered bits from the corpses of people (dwarves, elves, humans, etc) can sometimes be found in monster lairs and these seem to be just as desired by shopkeepers as the products you gain from your own butchering.

Another good early source of income can be bags left in abandoned houses/shops, which usually contain plants and food.No one will complain, and the plants inside can be sold at about 2☼ each plus the value of the bag.

At the bottom of the list comes {{k|L}}ooking Carefully and selling any small creatures you might find. However, shops will not accept live creatures unless they are in cages. Some rocks, piles of sand, and other things found on the ground nearly everywhere can also be sold for 1☼ each.

You can also try filling your backpack from river - it can hold up to 100 units of water which is worth 100☼ total. After your sell it, water will drop to the floor as a pool, and backpack can be refilled instantly and for free from there. In fact, you can infinitely fill any container from any pool/pile of any liquid/powder, so if you happen to find some precious substance like [[sunshine]] or [[dwarven sugar]], money won't be a problem for you anymore. This may be considered an [[exploit]] by some, though.

== Quests ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Q}}
| Adventure (Quest) log (tasks, map, et cetera...)
|}

Once you have a quest, press {{K|Q}} to look at them (this screen is called the Adventure Log). The world map is on the left, with your current location highlighted by a blinking "O", while on the right is the list of your quests. You can select a quest and press {{K|z}} to find the location of the quest site: the blinking "O" will move to the quest site, with a green line drawing the path you need to take. Pressing {{K|m}} will tell you the species of the monster you're supposed to kill. You can also use the arrow keys to move the "O" around to examine the surrounding terrain and sites.

Note that once you complete a quest that you can report your success to ''any'' human. Once you tell one human, everyone in the same civilization will know about it. The Adventure Log will tell you to report back to a particular hamlet/town/castle, but you can safely ignore that.

If you're having trouble finding the site on the fast travel map for some reason, exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}}. In the upper left-hand corner of the screen will be a box with symbols running down the left-hand side. At the top of the box will be the symbol of your quest site, with the compass direction to the site at to its right, and "TSK" to the right of the direction indicating an unfinished quest at that site. You can then go back into fast travel mode and head in that direction.

Once you get to the quest site, you'll be unable to enter it when using quick travel mode. Attempting to do so will give the message "You cannot travel through the [site]". You must exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}} and move the rest of the way using the normal movement mode. The box in the upper left-hand corner will tell you the direction to go. When you complete the quest the "TSK" will be gone from the site's line in the box, and looking at the Adventure Log ({{K|Q}}) will show "Report Death of ..." instead of "Kill ...". You then have to move off the site using the slow travel method before entering quick travel mode again with {{K|T}} (trying to do so on the site will tell you "You cannot travel until you leave this site".)

The difficulty of the quests a certain civilization will give you goes up as your fame/reputaion with that civilization increases. This is important to remember, you may want to increases your adventurer's skills or gather more companions inbetween quests to keep up with the rising diffuculty level.

==Crafting==
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|x}}
| Perform action (butcher, create item...)
|}

Adventurers can perform limited crafting, (also known as "reactions"). To access the crafting menu, press {{k|x}}.

'''Knapping''' allows an adventurer to sharpen a rock. '''Knapping does not work with stones in containers, only ones on the ground or in your hand.'''<br />Stones can only be {{k|d}}ropped if the stone type does not naturally exist in the biome you are in, so to use ground stones it is worthwhile to {{k|T}}ravel far from the area you {{k|g}}ot the stones. Otherwise, you can place both stones into your hands. This can be achieved by {{k|d}}ropping whatever is held in your left and right hands, then {{k|g}}etting small stones from the ground. Next, press {{k|x}} to open the action menu, and press {{k|c}}reate and then {{k|→}} to select "Make sharp stone". You will be prompted to choose a rock to sharpen ("tool stone"), and then the hammerstone. The tool stone will be replaced in your hand by a sharp version.

'''Butchering''' acts similarly to Fortress Mode's [[Butchery]] by converting a corpse into edible products, bones, and skin. A corpse must be {{k|d}}ropped onto the ground to be butchered, or held in one hand. With a sharp object (such as a dagger or knapped stone or even a bolt/arrow) in your hand or on the same tile of the corpse, press {{k|x}}, {{k|b}}, and {{k|→}} to select the corpse, and then the sharp tool. The corpse will be replaced by its butchering returns.

These are the only reactions possible in an unmodified game though others can be added through modding.

== FAQ ==

===How do I get past NPCs which are in my way?===
Press {{K|s}} to sit, then move to roll between their legs. Once you're done press {{K|s}} to stand again.

===How do I find an entrance to the underworld?===
You cannot find caves by asking for quests. Instead, repeatedly ask NPCs about the surroundings, and they might tell you about the location of a cave. If this doesn't show any caves, travel to a hamlet/town/castle some distance away and try again.

===I keep getting maimed and killed! How can I fight without getting seriously hurt?===
The best offense is a good defense. If you let your enemies attack you, you're (unsurprisingly) likely to get hurt eventually.
* Try to ''avoid fighting difficult enemies until you get some armor''. Don't fight enemies at all unless you're sure you can beat them. If you're unsure, you're probably going to get hurt.
* If you have good speed, try to ''fight enemies one-by-one'' - keep moving backwards and only attack when you're within range of just one enemy.
* If you have a slashing weapon, try to ''chop parts off of your enemy'' - it makes them stop fighting for a turn, allowing you to keep attacking them without being attacked in exchange. Chopping off limbs will also weaken your enemies - taking their arms can prevent them from using weapons, taking their legs can make them slow and knock them down.
* Remember that ''it's better to let your enemy come to you, than to go to your enemy''. You have to either move or attack. If you move, you can't attack, so if you move within range to attack your enemy, you allow them to have the first strike (unless you're much faster than them). On the other hand, if you let them move within range of you, then you get to have the first strike.
* Follow the advice under [[#Combat Preferences|Combat Preferences]].

===How can I obtain armor as quickly as possible?===
* Here's the evil way. If you don't mind causing an entire civilization to be hostile to you (preventing trade, et al, with that civ):
** It's relatively easy to obtain some armor by killing a sleeping soldier in a fort and taking his stuff.
** Most villagers are pretty easy to kill and while their stuff isn't usually too valuable it is worth something. Instead of killing animals you can go around killing villagers and taking their stuff, then travel to another civilization that doesn't know (or maybe care) how evil you are in order to trade.
** Don't try this in the beginning if the next civilization over is more than a day or so away. You need to be able to flee to another country in order to escape justice and continue to quest/trade.
* Pick companions with good equipment so you can "inherit" it when they get killed. Letting them do all of the fighting for a while might help speed up this process. While this might be kind of evil, it's not as evil as the first option and will cause you much less trouble.

<div id="powerleveling"></div>

===How do I increase my skills and attributes? (powerleveling)===

Here are some techniques for raising your skills, very rapidly in some cases.

Most of these skill-raising techniques involve repeatedly entering the same keystrokes. To assist with this you can use a [[Main:Macro|Macro]] to make entering the same sequence of keystrokes over and over again much easier.

Increasing skills increases associated attributes which may in turn benefit other skills. For example, sharpening rocks using {{k|x}} will increase Knapping which will increase a number of attributes that help with combat skills. See [[Attribute#Skills_and_associated_attributes|Skills and Associated Attributes]] for a mostly complete list.

*'''Fighting and Wrestling''' - A good way to raise your Fighting and Wrestling skills and related attributes is to go find a small relatively harmless animal and wrestle with it over and over again. You can wrestle using {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}}. Continually grabbing and releasing a creature is sufficient to raise your skill, and this will not injure the animal so you can do it infinitely with the same one. Wrestling will increase Endurance as well as other stats.
*'''Shield User, Armor User, and Dodging''' - In addition to wrestling the creature, you can also sit and let it attack you to raise your defensive skills. If you have metal armor then a small animal like a gopher can't do any real damage to you even if it hits. Also change your {{K|C}}ombat preferences to "stand ground" to increase the amount of shield blocking you do, unless you want more dodging practice than shield practice.
*'''Weapon Skills and Fighting''' - Once your defensive skills are getting up there and your agility is high enough to make your speed 1300+, you might want to try fighting bogeymen to increase your weapon skill. Just make sure to fight them one at a time while running away. If you don't know what a bogeyman is yet then you are probably not ready to try this. Also, doing difficult targeted shots will gain more experience and keep the training dummy alive longer.
*'''Throwing and Archery''' - Throwing rocks with {{k|t}} will raise your Throwing and Archery skills. Being able to throw objects at creatures, while not terribly devastating (In fact, it used to be. In early 31.xx, somebody killed a bronze colossus by throwing a fluffy wambler at its head. We can only hope the wambler survived.), can still come in handy. Since throwing also raises your archery skill, you can improve your aim with bows and crossbows by throwing, but it is also possible to improve bow/crossbow skills without wasting ammunition.
*'''Marksman, Bowman, and Archery''' - Raising the bow and crossbow weapon-specific skills is best done by shooting at a wall or cliff with no floor in front of it. If bolts or arrows hit a wall that has a floor (or ground) in front of it on the same z-level the ammunition will be destroyed, however ''ammunition that falls at least one z-level after hitting a wall will remain intact.'' So, you just need to find something like a hill inside a castle, stand on the hill, then shoot at the wall on the same z-level that you're on. The arrows will hit the wall and fall one z-level to the ground, remaining intact. You can then go pick up the arrows and fire them at the wall from the hill again, ad infinitum. You can also stand next to a wall that's at least 2 z-levels high, then shoot up a z-level at the wall by hitting {{k|<}} after you hit {{k|f}}. How ever you decide to do it, the key is that the arrow needs to be able to fall at least one z-level after it hits a wall in order to remain intact. Using a macro will speed this up greatly.
*'''Ambushing and Swimming''' - When approaching a camp or other site, you may want to use {{k|S}} to sneak in and loot any loose items first. While it's very slow, you can sneak over large distances instead of using fast travel in order to increase your sneaking skill (Ambushing). It's also possible to sneak and swim at the same time, so training these things can be combined. Just make sure you '''start with at least Novice in swimming''' or you will find it practically impossible to train swimming.
*'''Observer''' - You can't really powerlevel this skill as it is slow and difficult to train, which is why you're advised to sink some points into it during character creation. One way to train this skill appears to be sleeping or walking around in the wilderness, repeatedly getting ambushed. Running away from the ambush, if you can, will probably allow you to repeat this cycle faster if you live. Detecting traps found in tombs and catacombs successfully (done automatically) will also raise Observer, though without decent starting skill to begin with, you would be torn to pieces by the traps you failed to see. Once you've found one or more traps, it is possible to grind experience by sleeping/waiting an hour, which will reset them, then re-detect them, and repeat.
*'''Spatial and Kinesthetic Sense''' - Sharpening rocks with {{k|x}} will improve your Knapping skills, but more importantly, raising these skills with raise your Spatial Sense and Kinesthetic Sense attributes which help with a number of other skills. This can be combined with throwing, using a macro, to keep your inventory from filling up.
*'''Other Stats''' - Other useful stats like Strength, Agility, and Toughness will increase significantly as the fighting and defense skills increase, so you don't need to do anything other than what you'd normally be doing to increase these.

===I managed to escape but my limbs are chopped off. Now what?===

It's just a fleshwound!

Unfortunately, there is currently no way to get them back, but as long as you have at least one leg and one arm left you can actually do pretty well. First, get a crutch from somewhere, such as a general store, and make sure it's in one of your hands. Once you do that you should be able to {{k|s}}tand back up again. You will notice that your speed is now much slower than before.

Now go find someplace reasonably safe and walk back and forth until your Crutch Walking skill gets up to Legendary or above. You will notice your speed increasing as your skill levels up until your speed is completely back to normal. As a bonus you'll probably see some stat increases as well. You can continue to dodge with a crutch just as well as before.

You can wield a sword, shield, and crutch all in one hand, so even if you are missing an arm then you're all set. If you are missing both arms but still have both legs then unfortunately you'll be limited to biting, dodging, and wrestling with legs. If you're missing both arms and one leg then your movement will be limited and you'll be limited to biting and wrestling with your one remaining leg. And if all limbs are missing then you'll be limited to rolling around on the ground biting things.

Though you might actually be able to do surprisingly well as a Legendary Biter, especially if you powerlevel your strength to the point where you can shake things around by the teeth ripping limbs off, if you lose both legs then your character is going to be severely limited just due to the poor movement rate, so at that point it's probably best to opt for retirement or a glorious death in battle.

Becoming a [[werebeast]] will enable you to regenerate limbs during the transformation to your animal form every Full Moon.
=== How do I keep my companions from running off after random wildlife? ===

In unmodified games, only human companions are typically available and humans currently seem to have the philosophy that all wildlife MUST DIE AN IMMEDIATE BRUTAL DEATH ASAP. While there's currently no way to order them to ignore wildlife and other neutral creatures, you can modify the ''raw\objects\entity_default.txt'' file and add the '''<nowiki>[AT_PEACE_WITH_WILDLIFE]</nowiki>''' to the entity definition for humans. This will cause humans to have an elf-like attitude toward wildlife, and vice versa. Humans will then avoid killing animals and animals will not run away from humans, also giving you somewhat of an advantage when hunting as a human.

Animals... you either love them and they love you, or they must die a horrible death right now.

===How do I become a vampire?===

The only way to become one is to first find one, kill it, and then "eat" its blood. More about vampires [[Vampire|here]].

=See Also=
*[[Main:Adventure Mode quick reference|Adventure Mode quick reference]]
*[[Adventure mode quick start|quick start guide]]

{{Getting Started}}
{{Category|Adventurer mode}}
{{Category|Interface}}

v0.34:Bowman

2012-06-08T00:59:33Z

Riking: add adventurer category as it may be relevant

{{quality|Tattered|23:39, 19 February 2012 (UTC)}}{{av}}

The bowman skill comes from using [[weapon|bows]]. Go figure.

Not to be confused with the [[crossbowman]] skill or the all inclusive [[archer]] skill. Arrows and crossbow bolts were the deadliest weapons in the v0.28.181.40d versions, but they have been toned down since then.
[[Category:DF2012:Adventurer mode]]

v0.34:Adventure mode quick start

2012-06-03T21:59:42Z

Riking: /* Starting Attributes */

{{quality|Masterwork|15:23, 17 April 2011 (UTC)}}
<div style="float:right; margin:1.5em">__TOC__</div>
{{av}}

This guide provides step-by-step instruction for those who have never played Dwarf Fortress in '''Adventure Mode''' before. It assumes that you have already installed the game and can navigate the menus on your own, but no significant knowledge of how to play Fortress Mode is required.

Read the full [[adventure mode]] documentation for additional detail.

= Common UI Concepts =

{{KeyConventions}}

= World Generation =

Some custom worlds which are interesting for fortress mode may be annoying for adventure mode for various reasons such as few civilizations, low population, certain races not existing, lack of access to metals, or history being so far advanced that many fortresses and [[town]]s have been abandoned.

For your first game it's best to start with a generic world to avoid potential problems. You can come back to an existing world once you have the hang of things.

See [[World generation]] if you need help with world generation.

{{TipBox2|titlebg=#0a0|For your first game...|'''Generate a world using''' {{DFtext|Create New World!}} '''with:'''
* {{DFtext|World Size}} is {{DFtext|Medium|3:1}}
* {{DFtext|History}} is {{DFtext|Short|3:1}}
* {{DFtext|Number of Civilizations}} is {{DFtext|High|3:1}}
* {{DFtext|Number of Sites}} is {{DFtext|High|3:1}}
* {{DFtext|Number of Beasts}} is {{DFtext|Medium|3:1}}
* {{DFtext|Natural Savagery}} is {{DFtext|Medium|3:1}}
* {{DFtext|Mineral Occurrence}} is {{DFtext|Frequent|3:1}}
These settings should help avoid the aforementioned problems.
}}

= Character Creation =

== Race and Civilization==
{{TipBox2|titlebg=#0a0|float=right|For your first game...|'''Select Human of some civilization (not outsider).'''}}
The first step in starting an [[adventure mode]] game is to choose the race (and civilization) of your adventurer. All three races can complete the same quests.

*'''Civilized Humans''' begin with bronze, iron, or silver weapons and can use any of the items sold by shopkeepers (who, for the time being, are only found in human towns and only sell human-sized clothing/armor). They also start with the widest variety of weapon skills. This is probably the best race to use when starting out.

*'''Human Outsiders''' can only start with Spear User and Knife User as weapon skills, and they cannot start with Armor User or Shield User. They also start out literally naked with no clothing. Be aware this extends to backpacks, which are very difficult to find in shops. Bandit camps are likely your best bet to locate one.

*'''Dwarves''' have the advantage of being able to go into a [[Martial trance|martial trance]] when fighting multiple foes at once. They are the only race which can start with steel weapons, but they wear "small" sized clothing (like goblins and elves) which means that they're unable to wear human clothing and armor found in shops.

*'''Elves''' start with very weak wooden weapons and have a more limited list of weapon skills during character creation. They have the advantage that they have higher natural speed. Like dwarves they wear small sized clothing so will have the same problem finding suitable armor in shops. Finally, while this is of limited benefit, they are at peace with the wilderness and therefore will never be attacked by wild animals.

== Status ==
{{TipBox2|titlebg=#0a0|float=right|For your first game...|'''Select Demigod as your status.''' Even as a demigod you will probably die anyway.}}
You can then choose to start as either a '''Peasant''', '''Hero''' or '''Demigod'''. Each offers progressively more points to spend on attributes and skills. These three options essentially amount to how difficult it is to get started, so to make things easier for your first game you may want to just pick "demigod".

== Starting Attributes ==
These are the attributes you start with. They will go up as your skills increase which means that many of them can be raised in game, sometimes rather easily. '''Agility''', '''Toughness''', and '''Strength''' are probably the most important, in that order. '''Endurance''' keeps a character from getting exhausted too quickly in battle, and '''Social Awareness''' increases the number of followers you can have at one time.

Other attributes to keep in mind in the future: '''Focus''' helps with Archer, Observer, and Ambusher. '''Willpower''' helps characters resist exertion/pain effects. '''Spatial Sense''' helps combat skills. '''Kinesthetic Sense''' helps with most skills involving any movement at all. These are less important to start out with, though, because they can be raised by doing various things in game, some of which are explained in the [[#Tips|tips]] section.

Some attributes like Musicality are currently completely useless. (For more, see [[cv:Adventurer_mode#Soul|Adventurer Mode - Attributes]])

{{TipBox2|titlebg=#0a0|For your first game...|'''Select the following attributes:'''

* High '''Strength'''
* Superior '''Agility'''
* Superior '''Toughness'''
* High '''Endurance'''
* Above Average '''Social Awareness'''

The others are either less important, easier to raise by doing things in game, or totally useless. Note that you won't have enough attribute points to increase all of these unless you set status to Demigod.

Later you may find that you want to start with different attributes, but these are a good safe starting point. For example, you may find that later you don't care about the extra follower from Social Awareness and want to increase Spatial Sense or something instead, but for purposes of getting through this tutorial alive the extra follower will help.}}

Read up on [[Attribute|attributes]] for more information.

== Starting Skills ==
These are what you start out with for skills, though you can increase them and develop others by doing things in game. The most important in the beginning are a specific melee weapon skill (such as '''Swordsman'''), and defensive skills like '''Shield User''', '''Armor User''', and '''Dodger'''.

Defensive skills are absolutely critical if you don't want to die instantly. (See [[Fighter|combat skills]] for more info.) '''Observer''' is important for avoiding ambushes, which often mean instant death if sleeping, and '''Swimmer''' helps to avoid drowning. Others such as Fighter are useful but increase rather easily on their own in game. Novice '''Reader''' is important if you wish to become a Necromancer, as there is currently no way of raising this skill.

{{TipBox2|titlebg=#0a0|For your first game...|'''Select the following starting skills:'''

* Skilled '''Swordsman''' (feel free to substitute a different melee weapon skill for this)
* Competent '''Observer'''
* Adequate '''Swimmer'''
* Proficient '''Shield User'''
* Proficient '''Armor User'''
* Proficient '''Dodger'''

The rest of the skills are relatively easy to raise in game or aren't that important at the beginning. Note that you won't have enough skill points to select all of these unless you previously selected Demigod as your status.

As with attributes, you may later find that you want to experiment with different skill point allocations, but these are some good safe starting choices for purposes of getting through the tutorial.}}

Read up on [[Skill|skills]] for more information.

== Other ==
{{TipBox2|titlebg=#0a0|float=right|Key Reference|Most of the key commands you will need are noted in the text, but refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide if you need to look up the key for a particular action.}}
Your name and gender don't impact your character's ability, so feel free to do whatever you want with those.

= Gameplay =
Once you have finished character creation, hit the {{k|Esc}} key at any time and select {{DFtext|Save Game}} to save your game. You can then come back to it later by using the {{DFtext|Continue Playing}} option in the main menu.

== Setting Off ==
[[File:adventurer-talking.png|thumb|400px|Talking to someone.]]

You will usually start your adventure near a peasant hut. You can ask nearby commoners, using the {{k|k}} key, if you may be of any {{DFtext|Service|3:1}}. They will then inform you of any problems their locality is suffering from, giving you a quest. In the beginning this usually means killing a nearby bandit.

'''Walk into a hut, talk to a commoner, and get a quest.''' Feel free to ask some commoners to {{DFtext|Join|3:1}} you if you want, although most of them will refuse. Soldiers will make better companions anyway.

== Fast Travel ==
{{TipBox2|titlebg=#a00|float=right|Alone in the dark...|'''Avoid traveling in the wilderness at night, particularly when you are alone.'''}}
[[Image:adventurer-fast-travel.png|thumb|400px|Fast Travel screen. A fort is on the west side, and a town is on the east side of the map. The regional map is displayed on the far right.]]
So far you've been traveling around at normal scale, but this can be very slow for traveling between geographical regions.

Using {{k|T}} will open the fast-travel screen and enable you to roam the land very quickly. Notice the uppermost bar indicating the position of the sun.

Use {{k|m}} to open a zoomed-out overview map to further help you navigate.

== Finding Some Muscle ==
Much of the time, especially at the beginning, you need some companions to watch your back. The best place to find some is at a fortress. When in the fast-travel screen, press {{k|m}} to bring up the region map. Fortresses on the region map appear as small circles (marked as O on the map) and look like large buildings on the fast travel map.

{{TipBox2|titlebg=#a00|float=right|No companion left behind...|When fast-traveling, make sure that all of your companions are near you or some may be left behind.}}
Move next to the entrance of a fortress and hit {{k|>}} to exit fast travel. Now move toward the fortress and you'll soon encounter the wall. You may need to walk around a bit to find the entrance. Once inside, if the fortress is not abandoned, you will find soldiers milling around. Use {{k|k}} to talk to them and ask them to {{DFtext|Join|3:1}} you. At first you will only be able to get three followers but this is enough for now.

If the fortress is abandoned, leave and try another one.

Walk some distance away from the fort and go back to the fast travel screen with {{key|T}}.

== Getting Some Rest ==
{{TipBox2|titlebg=#a00|float=right|Going bump in the night...|'''Beware of sleeping in the wilderness at night!''' If you have to sleep outside, only do so if you have companions. Even if you do have companions, it will usually be better to travel drowsy until you reach a fort or town where it's safe to sleep.}}
At this point you may have traveled enough that your character is tired. When your adventurer becomes tired, as indicated by the {{DFtext|Drowsy|3:0}} attribute, it's time for some sleep. Move to a settlement of some sort, go into a building, and use the {{k|Z}} key to bring up the sleep menu.

If you are in a private house, you must first ask the owner for permission before you can sleep. If a commoner is blocking you from entering his home, use the {{k|s}} key to crawl under his legs, and then the same key to stand back up.

== Finding Your Target ==
Use {{k|Q}} to bring up the quest screen. Using the {{k|+}} and {{k|-}} keys, you can scroll through the quests displayed on the right. Pressing {{k|z}} will zoom in on the current quest target, showing you the quickest path to reach it. The quest menu can also be used to pinpoint the location of many other useful sites and entities.

Fast travel toward the location where your target is. When you get close, go back to the quest screen, hit {{k|z}} and you should get a more detailed map of exactly where to go. Once you are in the right spot, hit {{k|>}} to exit fast travel mode.

In the upper-left corner of the screen you will now see a box with a list of icons and an abbreviation for a direction such as {{DFtext|NNE}} (north northeast). One of these will be marked with {{DFtext|TSK|3:1}} and that is your target. Continue to move in the indicated direction until you find the target that you're supposed to kill. this wont work if your target is in the sewers unless you are in the sewers and standing on a ramp, but it will lead you to a lair entrance or the middle of a bandit camp.

== Fighting ==
{{TipBox2|titlebg=#a00|float=right|Bandits|Note that the target of your first quest may be in a camp (looks like {{Tile|{{DB}}|6:0:1}}) surrounded by henchmen. Make sure to approach carefully and when you see one of them, let them come to you and let your companions attack first.}}
'''If you attempt to kill the target(s) of your first quest with neither companions nor armor then you are very likely to die.''' Therefore, before proceeding make sure you have friends with you. If you do, you shouldn't need armor if you let them do most of the fighting.

As you may have noticed by now, combat in Dwarf Fortress is quite complex compared to other games, so this section is kind of long. Please read it carefully though.

=== Movement and Positioning ===
When approaching a target it's usually best to wait using {{k|.}} to skip turns once you get close and let your target come to you so you can get the first shot on them. Positioning can be important because you don't want to let enemies attack you from the side or behind (!) and you should also try to move so that you're never fighting more than one opponent at a time.

If you find yourself being shot at with ranged weapons, put a tree, hill, or other terrain feature between you and the archer and wait for some melee equipped opponents to come to you. Your followers will probably not be so smart though.

For your first fight, you may want to let your companions take the lead anyway though as you won't have any decent armor yet. Press {{k|.}} to skip turns if you want to wait in one spot and let your friends advance and soften up some enemies first. If one of your companions dies, no big deal. You can just take his stuff by pressing {{k|g}} then get another follower later. If they die and you're outnumbered, just run away and come back later with new companions.

If you want to be useful while sitting back and letting your friends charge in first, use {{k|t}} to throw objects such as rocks (freely available on many outdoor tiles by pressing {{k|g}}) at your opponent.

=== Attacking Effectively ===
{{TipBox2|titlebg=#0a0|float=right|Don't expect it to be easy...|If you're finding your first quest too difficult, and you manage to escape with your life, you can ignore the quest for a while, replace any dead followers, go ask NPCs about Surroundings, and try to find an easier camp or lair to attack. When you kill whatever "boss" is there, even if it not part of a quest, you can still go brag about it, raise your fame, get more followers, and then go back to the original quest. You can also just ask different people in different towns for different quests and perhaps find an easy one like killing a leopard.}}
To attack, you can simply use a directional key to move your character as if to collide with your target. More effective though is pressing {{k|Shift}}+{{key|A}} when directly adjacent to a target in order to target specific body parts.

At first your skills obviously won't be that great, so it's important to make targeted shots using {{k|Shift}}+{{k|A}}. Take the '''Easy''' strikes that are also '''Solid''' even if they target arms or legs. At first you're going to want to target limbs anyway because you're much less likely to be able to one-shot enemies with a blow to the head and you want to render them harmless as quickly as possible. If you get an '''Easy''' or '''Tricky''' shot to the head that is also relatively '''Solid''', you might want to take it though. If every shot is difficult except for a body shot, take the body shot.

Taking out an arm or hand can disarm your foe, cutting off a foot or leg will knock the opponent down and severely limit their movement, and anything causing severe pain can cause the opponent to lose consciousness making a followup headshot very easy. Cutting off weapon arms and a leg means they're almost as good as dead, so take note of what will most easily neutralize the threat before killing it. You may want to ignore such disabled opponents for a while and help your companions disable uninjured enemies.

For armored areas, either avoid attacking them or attempt stabbing or blunt force rather than slashing.

'''Frequently your weapon will get "lodged in the wound" making it unavailable for another attack until you free it.''' To free the weapon, use the directional keys to move either toward your opponent or step away/sideways.

'''When your weapon is lodged in an opponent, they are unable to dodge.''' If you have another weapon, then getting 1 weapon lodged is extremely beneficial as you can then proceed to kill/neutralise your opponent without worrying about them dodging. However, they are still able to parry, and you are still able to miss. Remember - counterattacks are the most deadly attacks. If you want to attack an opponent in a difficult place, then don't - it's not worth the risk.

'''Enemies behind you get a higher hit chance.''' you want to stay facing most of your enemies if you can, but you should never back into a corner.

== Looting ==
Once your targets are dead, take their stuff using the {{k|g}} key. Immediately use {{k|w}} to wear any armor or clothing you gain. Decapitated heads can be left behind.

When walking around, use the {{k|g}} key to pick up any equipment or item lying on the ground. These will then be added to your inventory {{k|i}}. Items may be sold later on to a shop at a nearby town (not hamlet).

== Completing Quests ==
Once you complete your first quest, you can talk to any hamlet, town or fortress dweller to spread the news of your success. Though your quest log will direct you there, it is not necessary to return to the individual who gave you the quest to report your success.

{{TipBox2|titlebg=#0a0|float=right|Small army...|For now, always recruit the maximum number of companions. Later you may find that you don't need as many, though you'll usually need at least a few.}}
Each time you report your success, your level of fame will increase. Once your fame has risen, more mighty warriors may want to join you on your way to glory. They can be recruited at fortresses or among the common peasants. Your companions will greatly increase your chances of survival and adventurers who care about such things should drop by the nearest fortress as quickly as possible.

== Checking Things Out ==
At any time, use the {{k|z}} key to display your status. This can be used to look for any scratches, bruises or missing limbs.

To check on the status of your companions, use the {{k|c}} key to get a list of them (specifically, the ones within visual range) and a summary of their conditions, then press the key corresponding to the one you want to view up close. Alternatively, you can use the {{K|l}} key, which can also be used to look at any other item or creature within your range of vision.

You may equip any items that you find or buy using the {{k|w}} key. If you are wearing too many items in an existing location, items must first be removed using the {{k|r}} key. To swap weapons you should {{k|d}}rop the equipped weapon first, or {{k|p}}ut it in your backpack, then {{k|g}}et the new equipment from the ground or {{k|r}}remove it from your backpack.

== Trading ==
You can tell at a glance which [[town]]s have shops by looking for white roads in towns (rather than the yellow roads that are houses most of the time) on the travel map.

To find shops, go stand on a white road tile on the fast travel screen then press {{k|>}}. Walk around a bit and you should find some huts with signs outside. These are shops. You can walk inside and talk to the residents just like anyone else, except that residents in shops will be willing to {{DFtext|Trade|3:1}} with you. Armor shops have a sign that looks like {{Tile|[|0:6:0}}.

== What Next ==
The next thing you should do is work on getting a full set of armor unless you have been lucky enough to have already obtained one. You may want to go tromping around in the woods looking for animals to kill. Killing animals can be profitable because you can butcher their corpses with {{k|x}} and sell the products. Butcher and sell all animal corpses until you've managed to obtain a full set of metal armor. Meat is surprisingly valuable.

You may need to visit several armor shops to find all the armor pieces you need.

Somewhat more dangerous, but much more profitable, is attacking bandit camps. Just let followers do most of the fighting and concentrate on picking off severely wounded enemies until you get at least a helmet, body, and leg armor. And if some followers die, all the better. You can take their stuff and use or sell it.

After you've armored up a bit, it's probably safe to go on the next quest. Get as many companions as you can and set off for your next target. You can also ask commoners about {{DFtext|Surroundings|3:1}} which can reveal lairs and other hidden sites on the map, but you should probably avoid any non-quest lairs in the beginning as lairs and such can have creatures that you won't be able to handle at this point.

== After That ==
{{TipBox2|titlebg=#0a0|float=right|More Tips|See the [[Adventurer_mode#FAQ|Adventure mode FAQ]] for lots of tips and suggestions on how to avoid death and increase your skills.}}
Congratulations, you have graduated from adventurer school. You can now keep doing quests, explore random sites, go find and explore an old fort of yours in one of your existing worlds, get lost in the underworld, or whatever you feel like.

You may want to read though the full [[adventure mode]] documentation to learn about things that weren't covered here.

= Feedback =
[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=80637.0 Thread about this tutorial on the Bay12 Forums]

{{Getting Started}}
{{Category|Adventurer mode}}
{{Category|Guides}}

v0.34:Adventurer mode

2012-06-03T21:57:12Z

Riking: /* Soul */

{{quality|Exceptional|15:19, 17 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

:''This is a detailed reference guide for Adventurer Mode. For a tutorial see the [[Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide]].
:''See [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] to quickly look up key commands.

In '''adventurer mode''' (also called "adventure mode") you create a single adventurer ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) who starts out somewhere in one of your generated worlds. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[cave]]s, shrines, lairs, abandoned towers, and other [[Site|towns and settlements]]. You can even visit your abandoned [[fortress]]es and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creature]]s that sealed their fate.

Unlike [[fortress mode]], adventurer mode is a sort of advanced [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandbox_game open world] version of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogue_%28computer_game%29 rogue] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nethack nethack] taking place in the same procedurally generated worlds used for fortress mode, but you control a single character in a turn-based manner rather than manage a group of creatures acting in real time.

=World Selection=

You can play Adventurer mode in any world that has a civilization with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token (which are elf, dwarf, and human in unmodded raws) but as of the current version only human civilizations have towns, NPC fortresses, or shops {{v|0.34.07}}. As a result you need at least one human civilization if you want quests or anything but basic wilderness survival. Alternately, you can alter the other races to also use human towns -- see the talk page under "Dwarven Fortresses."

If you have previously built a fort in the world that you select, your adventurer will be able to go visit it. However, the fort must be abandoned because you will not be able to start an adventure mode game in the same world with an active fortress mode game. Note, though, that you can always save your fortress mode game, duplicate the save folder (copy ''regionX'' to ''regionX-copy'' or something), abandon the fortress in the copy of the world, then start adventure mode in the new clone world.

=Character Creation=

==Race and Civilization==

Any race with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token is playable in adventure mode. In an unmodded game this means [[Dwarves]], [[Elves]], and [[Human|Humans]]. All three races can complete the same quests.

*'''Civilized Humans''' begin with bronze or iron weapons and can use any of the items sold by shopkeepers (who, for the time being, are only found in human towns and only sell human-sized clothing/armor). They also start with the widest variety of weapon skills.

*'''Human Outsiders''' can only start with Spear User and Knife User as weapon skills, and they cannot start with Armor User or Shield User. They also start out literally naked with no clothing, but can wear any human-sized armor that they trade for, steal, or loot. "Outsiders" of other races can be played if you add the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|INDIV_CONTROLLABLE]] token to the race's entity definition.

*'''Dwarves''' have the advantage of being able to go into a [[Martial trance|martial trance]] when fighting multiple foes at once. They are the only race which can start with steel weapons, but they wear "small" sized clothing (like goblins and elves) which means that they're unable to wear human clothing and armor found in shops. They can start with almost all of the same weapon skills as civilized humans. Most human-sized weapons (such as longswords) must be wielded two-handed by dwarves, due to their size.

*'''Elves''' start with very weak wooden weapons and have a more limited list of weapon skills during character creation. They have the advantage that they have higher natural speed. Like dwarves they wear small sized clothing so will have the same problem finding suitable armor in shops.

*'''Kobolds''' can be played only if there are no other civilizations and there are kobolds.

If no civilization for the given race exists in a world, you won't be able to play as that race except perhaps as a human outsider.{{Verify}}

== Status ==

Determines the number of starting skill and attribute points, which does not change based on race:
*'''Peasant:''' 15 attribute, 35 skill
*'''Hero:''' 35 attribute, 95 skill
*'''Demigod:''' 105 attribute, 161 skill
The number of skill points is less significant than the number of attribute points because the time it takes to go from Peasant to Demigod in skill terms is much less than what it would take to go from Peasant to Demigod in attribute terms.

== Starting Attributes ==

[[Attribute|Attributes]] are divided into Body and Soul attributes. This section provides some guidance for allocating attributes as it relates to adventurer mode.

=== Body ===

*'''Strength''' - Alters the damage done in melee, increases muscle mass (thicker muscle layer also resists damage more), and increases how much a creature can carry. Increasing strength, at least in adventurers, increases movement speed (albeit not as much as agility) due to better carrying capacity.
*'''Agility''' - This attribute is directly related to a character's Speed and is also used in combat skills.
*'''Toughness''' - Reduces physical damage. Also relates to defensive combat skills.
*'''Endurance''' - Reduces the rate at which the adventurer becomes exhausted. Used in Wrestling.
*'''Recuperation''' - Increases the rate of wound healing. Not as important as Toughness. Recuperation isn't that useful in adventurer mode since you usually have as much time to rest as you need assuming you can escape a situation alive.
*'''Disease Resistance''' - Reduces the risk of disease. Reduces the "risk" of becoming a vampire in adventurer mode.

Strength, Agility, and Toughness are the Body attributes that most impact combat skills, and Endurance to a lesser extent.

=== Soul ===

Some of these are useful for adventure-mode-applicable skills, but some are totally useless except as dump stats. (The useless ones are in ''italics''.)

*'''Analytical Ability''' - Useful for certain crafting skills, the only one currently being Knapping.
*'''Focus''' - Affects Archer, Ambusher, Observer.
*'''Willpower''' - Fighter, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, and helps resist ''pain effects'' such as those caused by chipped bones.
*'''''Creativity''''' - Currently completely useless in adventure mode. Normally it impacts crafting skills.
*'''Intuition''' - Only helps with Observer.
*'''''Patience''''' - Currently useless.
*'''Memory''' - Records more of previously traveled areas when you return to them. Deletes all memory when you travel.
*'''''Linguistic Ability''''' - Currently useless because adventurers don't have social skills.
*'''Spatial Sense''' - Important. Affects combat skills, Ambusher, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, Observer, Knapping.
*'''''Musicality''''' - Completely useless as of yet.
*'''Kinesthetic Sense''' - Important. Combat skills, Crutch Walker, Swimming, Knapping,
*'''Empathy''' - Might increase chance of persuading people to Join you.{{Verify}}
*'''Social Awareness''' - Increases the number of followers you can have at a given "fame" level. Normally you start with a limit of two. Increasing this stat by one level raises that to three.

=== Attribute Advancement Cap ===

Adventure mode attributes are capped at double the starting value or the starting value plus the racial average, whichever is greater. Humans, for example, have a racial average strength of 1,000. If a human adventurer starts with an ''above average'' strength of 1,100, then his strength will ultimately be capped at 2,200. Had this human started with a ''below average'' strength of 900, then his strength would be capped at 1,900 instead. For the purpose of maximizing final attributes, this makes it important to start with as many attributes in the ''superior'' range as possible (more attributes per point allocated), while avoiding taking any penalties to even remotely important attributes (big attribute deductions per point recovered). As a consequence of the attribute cap, demi-god adventurers will always have a much higher potential for advancement than mere peasants and heroes.

== Starting Skills ==

Not all races have the same sets of skills available at character creation time, but keep in mind that all starting [[skill]]s, as well as ones not available at character creation, can be improved through use in game. [[Reader]] is an exception to this.

This section will specifically address starting skills as they relate to adventure mode. For a full description of combat skills see [[Combat skill]]. Other skills that you can't start with, but which can be increased in game (such as Butchery) are described elsewhere.

=== Weapon ===

The weapon you start out with will be based on which of these, plus the unarmed combat skills, is the highest. In other words, even if Swordsman is your highest weapon skill, you won't start with a sword if your Wrestler or Striker skills are better. Usually the best choice anyway is to specialize in just one melee weapon skill.Regardless of weapon skills, a '''large copper dagger''' will always be included in the starting equipment, which is handy for throwing to enemies that are just a step away or finishing off a foe pinned down by a stuck weapon.

Because these tend to take a bit longer to increase in game, it makes sense to put some points into one at the beginning.

Not all races/civilizations can start with all of these skills. (For example, Dwarves can't start with Bowman or Lasher).

*'''Axeman''' - allows characters to use axes, great axes, and halberds more effectively.
*'''Bowman''' - skill allows characters to use bows more effectively.
*'''Crossbowman''' - allows characters to use crossbows more effectively. The dwarven version is called '''Marksdwarf'''.
*'''Hammerman''' - allows characters to use crossbows in melee, mauls, and war hammers more effectively.
*'''Knife User''' - allows characters to use large daggers and knives more effectively.
*'''Lasher''' - allows characters to use whips and scourges more effectively.
*'''Maceman''' - allows characters to use flails, maces, and morningstars more effectively.
*'''Pikeman''' - allows characters to use pikes more effectively.
*'''Spearman''' - allows characters to use spears more effectively.
*'''Swordsman''' - allows characters to use blowguns and bows in melee, long swords, scimitars, short swords, and two-handed swords more effectively.

=== General Combat ===

These two skills can be raised rather quickly in game and so you probably want to skip spending any points on them at the start.

*'''Fighter''' - This increases with, and contributes to, melee combat whether armed or unarmed. It appears that the purpose of it is to allow melee experience to contribute to melee combat in general regardless of weapon. Repeatedly wrestling (grabbing and releasing) even a small creature will raise this skill.
*'''Archer''' - This increases with, and contributes to, ranged combat including throwing. It works similarly to Fighter except for ranged attacks. It can be easily raised by repeatedly throwing rocks, making it advisable for archers to practice their marksmanship with rock throwing before using up the more finite and expensive forms of ammunition. Shooting at a wall with adjacent upward ramp one level below and picking back projectiles is also a good idea (such places often happen to be in castles). See the FAQ section on [[#powerleveling|powerleveling]] for information on raising bowman/marksman skills.

=== Defensive ===

These skills are critical for survival. Starting out with good ability in one (especially Shield User or Armor User) if not all is strongly advised.

*'''Shield User''' - Ability to block attacks with shields. Starting with skill in this means that the adventurer will start with a shield.
*'''Armor User''' - Related to how well an adventurer moves in armor, and increases whenever an adventurer wearing armor is attacked. A higher level of this skill reduces the encumbrance penalties of armor, allowing up to normal speed movement when wearing full steel plate. Unfortunately, starting with this skill does not provide any starting armor.
*'''Dodger''' - Ability to dodge out of the way of attacks.

=== Unarmed Combat and Improvised Weapons ===

While some of them come in handy at times, they can generally be raised fairly easily in game, especially Wrestler and Thrower.

*'''Wrestler''' - Ability to grapple, restrain, take-down, throw opponents, etc. See [[#Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks]] for details. Can be raised very easily in game.
*'''Striker''' - Punching ability.
*'''Kicker''' - Kicking ability.
*'''Biter''' - Biting ability.
*'''Thrower''' - Throwing any miscellaneous object including rocks, knives, axes, swords, heads, etc.
*'''Misc. Object User''' - Ability to beat things to death with their own severed body parts, basically. Also somewhat more commonly used for shield bashing.

=== Movement and Awareness ===

*'''[[Observer]]''' - Helps one to notice things like ambushes and enemies who are "sneaking" (stealth movement). Detection range increases with skill. Hard to train. Adding some points here is advisable.
*'''[[Swimmer]]''' - Allows movement through water without drowning. A Novice swimmer can swim but will revert to being unable to swim if stunned, which happens when falling even 1 z-level into the water. An Adequate swimmer can swim normally (not drown) while stunned. For this reason, ''starting out as an Adequate swimmer is advisable.'' If you don't, at least start as Novice and go get some swimming practice right away.
*'''[[Ambusher]]''' - The skill of {{K|S}}neaking around unobserved. This can be raised fairly easily by sneaking around while traveling from place to place when speed is not important. At lower skill levels, speed is greatly reduced, but the penalty gradually reduces until negated at Legendary skill and it's possible to sneak at full movement rate. Chance of detection is also reduced at higher skill levels; a more skilled ambusher can remain in close combat for longer without being detected.

=== Crafting ===

These allow your character to create things. There is only one skill currently available in an unmodified game.

*'''Knapper''' - The fine art of sharpening rocks by banging them together in a clever manner. The resulting rocks become sharp rocks which do more damage when thrown and can be used for things requiring a sharp edge like butchering. Easy to raise in game and doing so helps with Kinesthetic and Spatial Sense.

=== Other ===

*'''[[Reader]]''' - Allows you to read books, signs, and writing in Adventurer mode. Novice level is required in order to become a [[Necromancer]]. There is no way to increase this skill.
*'''[[Butcher]]''' - The art of cutting bodies into many pieces. You cannot allocate points here during character creation.

= Gameplay =

== Common UI Concepts ==
{{KeyConventions|3}}

== Moving Around ==

=== Local Movement ===
[[File:adventure-local-map.png|thumb|400px|The local travel screen. The lower left shows a small overview map of the area. The upper right shows a small area 1 z-level above the adventurer in the middle. The adventurer is standing in front of the door to a house full of humans, and visibility behind the house is obscured. In the upper left is a small box showing the direction to various sites (which may be quite far away).]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|Alt}} and a direction key
| Move carefully / Deliberately enter dangerous terrain
|-
| {{k|<}} or {{k|Shift}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Ascend
|-
| {{k|>}} or {{k|Ctrl}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Descend
|-
| {{k|.}}
| Wait for a step
|-
| {{k|s}}
| Stand or lie down
|-
| {{k|S}}
| Sneak
|}

Unless your character is an outsider, you will start out in a human town or hamlet; in the standard tileset the @ sign is your character. In the lower left-hand corner of the screen is a mini-map, with the @ sign showing your relative location to other things in the town/hamlet. The ▐ symbols are small collections of buildings.

The directional keys allow movement. Diagonal movement is particularly important especially when chasing or running away from things.

Use {{k|Alt}}+direction to enter water, jump off of cliffs, or otherwise attempt to enter anything that you can't enter using normal movement commands. Note that when entering water it's best to enter the actual water and not the open space over the water as, in the later case, you will fall in causing you to become stunned which may lead to drowning.

Hitting {{k|.}} allows you to stay in one place and wait for other things to move.

Use {{k|s}} to sit/lay down. Moving while laying down (crawling) will let you move past NPCs which are standing in your way. Also note that you will frequently get knocked to the ground in combat, and if you don't hit {{k|s}} to stand back up then you will crawl slowly along the ground, giving your opponent a lot of opportunity to attack you.

{{k|S}}neak will allow you to move around invisibly, limited by your Ambusher skill and the Observer skill of nearby creatures. The closer you get to a creature, the more likely you are to be detected. Your movement rate will also be very slow at low Ambusher skill levels while sneaking. If you are within observation range of anything then you will be unable to go into stealth mode. Hiding somewhere you can't be seen (such as the inside edge of a murky pool, if you can swim) will allow you to go into stealth mode when creatures are around.

=== Fast Travel ===
[[Image:adventurer-fast-travel.png|thumb|400px|Fast Travel screen. A fort is on the west side, and a town is on the east side of the map. The regional map is displayed on the far right.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|T}}
| Fast Travel
|-
| {{k|>}}
| Exit fast travel mode
|}

Entering Fast Travel mode will allow you to move large distances in a single keypress. Of course, the same amount of time will go by and you can also be interrupted (ambushed) while moving in fast travel mode.

See the [[Map legend]] for information on what the map symbols mean. Settlements are indicated by {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} tiles and you can find houses by exiting fast travel while standing on one of these tiles. Yellow tiles of the same shape {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} indicate the presence of shops rather than houses.

Pressing {{K|m}} will put a fully zoomed-out map on the right side of the screen, with your current location marked by a blinking "X". When seeking out a quest, move in the direction of the quest site until the blinking "X" is on top of the symbols indicated in the Adventure Log (you can press {{K|Q}} at any time to look at it again).

Along the top of the map is a line showing the sky, and the position of the sun and/or moon from west to east. This primarily helps you determine how long you have before it gets dark at which point you won't be able to see very far and will be more vulnerable to attack.

While in the fast travel screen you can:

* {{k|c}} - Display/hide clouds/weather
* {{k|m}} - Display/hide the regional map on the right
* {{k|Q}} - Display the Quest log
* {{k|Z}} - Display the sleep menu

Other commands are not available until you exit fast travel with {{k|>}}.

== Status and Information ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|l}}
| Look around
|-
| {{k|Space}}
| Advance/Clear Messages
|-
| {{k|a}}
| View Announcements
|-
| {{k|z}}
| Status
|}

=== Looking Around ===

If you're not sure what a tile is, the {{k|l}}ook command will tell you. In addition to being useful for identifying tiles and creatures, you can also view creatures' equipment and what items are sitting on the ground in a given tile. If in doubt, try the look command.

Move the cursor to the tile you want to look at using direction keys and {{k|Shift}}+direction. It's possible to look up and down z-levels (assuming you have line of sight) using the {{k|<}} and {{k|>}} keys. This, for example, allows you to find out if any flying creatures are above you. Hit {{k|Esc}} to exit look mode and go back to movement mode.

=== Messages ===

The game makes frequent use of messages on the screen to tell you what is going on. If there are a lot of these you may need to use {{k|Space}} to display the rest of the messages that won't fit on the screen. You can always go back and view old messages by pressing {{k|a}}.

=== Status Screen ===

This screen shows your skills, attributes, wounded body parts, health (along with more detailed descriptions of your wounds), lets you view your description, and change your nickname if you want.

=== Saving the Game ===

Hit the {{k|Esc}} key at any time and select {{DFtext|Save Game}} to save your game. You can then come back to it later by using the {{DFtext|Continue Playing}} option in the main menu.

== Searching and Manipulating ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|u}}
| Interact with building, furniture, or mechanism
|-
| {{k|L}}
| Search the nearby area very carefully
|}

The {{k|u}} key can be used to do stuff like pull levers in your abandoned forts. It is also used to lower and raise the bucket when standing right next to a well so you can get water to refill your waterskin with.

{{k|L}} will perform a thorough search of the area that you're standing in, possibly revealing some small creatures.

== Managing Equipment ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|i}}
| Show Inventory
|-
| {{k|d}}
| Drop an item
|-
| {{k|g}}
| Get (pickup) an item off the ground
|-
| {{k|p}}
| Put an item into a container
|-
| {{k|r}}
| Remove an item you are wearing or from a container
|-
| {{k|w}}
| Wear an item
|-
| {{k|I}}
| Interact with an object in an advanced way. (unstick a weapon, refill waterskin etc)
|}

=== Inventory ===

Press {{k|i}} to display a list of what you are currently carrying. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list. This list will show you if items are being worn, held in hands, stuck in your body, or are inside a container. Detailed information about an object can be viewed by pressing the key associated with the item.

=== Getting/Dropping Things ===

You can {{k|d}}rop items in your inventory, as well as {{k|g}}et items on the ground on the same tile that you are standing on. If there is more than one item a menu will be listed. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list if the list is too long to fit on the screen.

{{k|g}} will also allow you to ignite foliage/any flammable objects adjacent to you. Fires aren't as devastating as one might imagine, but they will cause (most)enemies to path around them, making your crowd control slightly more effective when taking on multiple enemies. As an added bonus, it will also surely piss off the elves.

=== Containers ===

Items can be placed into containers with {{k|p}} and removed with {{k|r}}.

=== Wearing ===

Items can be worn using {{k|w}} and removed using {{k|r}} (the same command used for removing from containers). If an item you want to wear does not show up as an option then it means you are already wearing too many items in the location used by that item. Try {{K|r}}emoving items in that location and then wear them again in order of priority.

After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

See [[Armor]] for more information on wearing things. One thing to note in particular, DF allows you to wear more than one item in the same location in many situations.

=== Wielding ===

There is no command for wielding items such as [[Weapon]]s in specific hands. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapon]]s or [[shield]]s you should drop items or place them into containers (such as your backpack) until your hands are free, then get items from the floor or remove them from containers which will place them in your hands. For example, put all items into backpack, remove sword from backpack, remove shield from backpack. The items will end up in the right and left hand. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

=== Advanced Interaction ===

The {{k|I}} key allows "complex interaction" with objects in your inventory. This is used for removing arrows and weapons stuck in wounds, and refilling waterskins, but in theory various types of objects could implement some sort of behavior to be activated. Basically this is similar to "use" commands in other games.

This command is particularly useful for getting water. When standing next to a well you press the {{k|u}} key to lower, then raise the bucket, yielding 10 units of water in the bucket. Then you can press the {{k|I}} key to fill your waterskin from the full bucket (alternatively you can press the {{k|e}} key to drink directly from the bucket).

More importantly, this can be used next to a campfire to heat things, such as any frozen liquids you have in your inventory(or snow lying on the ground) and need to drink.

== Time and Weather ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|D}}
| Date/Time
|-
| {{k|P}}
| Temperature
|-
| {{k|W}}
| Weather
|}

The game has a day/night cycle with time passing as various actions take place. When in the fast travel screen you can just look at the bar along the top to see where the sun is an estimate the time, but in local travel mode you'll have to use the {{k|W}} command.

When using quick travel mode the top line of the screen will indicate the position of the sun in the sky with a yellow "☼"; further to the right of the screen is earlier in the day and further to the left is later in the day.

At night you won't be able to see nearly as well and you will be more vulnerable to ambush.

The game also has weather and temperature. Weather is, to some extent, directly viewable on the fast travel screen. Temperature is important because if it happens to drop below freezing while you're swimming through water, you're dead instantly. Therefore you might want to keep an eye on the temperature while swimming, especially if it's getting cold. Also, unlike fortress mode, rivers/other bodies of water can be liquid during the day, and freeze at night. The cycles of freezing can also be erratic from day to day.

Weather can also reduce visibility.

== Sleep ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Z}}
| Sleep
|}

Eventually your character will become {{DFtext|Drowsy|3:1}} and this will get worse until you get sufficient sleep.

Sleep does not necessarily have to coincide with night, but if you're traveling alone when night comes you'll be in danger of being attacked by [[bogeymen]]. To avoid this while traveling solo you need to make it to shelter before nightfall and sleep the night away inside a building or abandoned lair. Enter a building, use {{K|k}} to talk to a human, and ask for permission to stay the night. Next press {{K|Z}} to sleep, {{K|d}} to sleep until dawn, then {{K|Enter}} to confirm. ('''NOTE''': If you stay the night in a castle, you have to sleep in the keep which houses the lord/lady of the castle. Sleeping inside the castle but outside the keep still leaves you vulnerable to attack.) Sleeping on an ocean beach also prevents bogeymen from attacking. ('''NOTE''': You can disable bogeymen by going into advanced world builder and setting "Number of Night creatures" to 0)

Though sleeping inside can be safe, it's also limiting: any quest site you want to go to has to be within a daytime's round-trip time of a safe habitation, and you have to make your way to there by hopping from one habitation to the next, sleeping at each along the way. A way to avoid this is to travel with companions. If you have any companions with you then [[bogeymen]] won't attack you. You'll still have to sleep at night, though, both to avoid sleep deprivation and because there's no visibility at night. You can still be ambushed at night by wildlife, but that's much less likely than being ambushed by [[bogeymen]] when traveling alone. If you find yourself alone at night with nowhere safe to sleep, the safest best is to keep traveling until dawn, even if that means running around in circles. You will eventually feel unwell from sleep deprivation, but this can take a considerable time. You can make up for lost sleep once you've found your way to safety.

Note that sleeping in lairs, shrines, and labyrinths makes you safe from ambush, assuming that you or someone has killed whatever was living there. If you have sufficient shrines/lairs/etc between you and your goal and they are either uninhabited or inhabited by things you are capable of killing then you can travel from lair to lair using each lair as a safe lodging. This is much much safer than sleeping out in the open, day or night, even with companions.

If no other options are available, completely surrounding yourself with campfires will keep night marauders at bay as they cannot pass through the fires; the fires will go out after several hours and enable you to move on. The bogeymen or other enemies may be outside your line of sight, which will prevent you from firing arrows or throwing things at them. In this case, you will have to stand up and lie down {{K|s}} repeatedly until the enemies wander into your range, the fires go out and the enemies can path to you, or dawn breaks.

== Food and Drink ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|e}}
| Eat or drink something
|}

The easiest way to stay hydrated and full when starting out is by finding and fighting something weak (say, a vulture, or a raccoon, or a fox). You will almost certainly end up covered in blood. You can drink any liquid covering you using 'e' and then simply selecting the fluid - perhaps a little salty in real life, but in Dwarf Fortress it works. The corpse can then be butchered for edible parts, to cure your hunger - the first two problems are solved. It is possible that drinking vampire blood will lead to infection.

== Combat ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|A}}
| Attack an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|A}} then {{k|Enter}}
| Wrestle an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|f}}
| Fire a projectile
|-
| {{k|t}}
| Throw an item
|-
| {{k|C}}
| Open combat preferences interface
|}

[[Combat]] is the fine art of using physical force to cause injury and death, and it is particularly fun in Dwarf Fortress.

=== Melee Attacks ===

Hostile creatures can be attacked using a non-aimed attack by simply advancing towards your enemy using the arrow keys. Doing a non-aimed attack will also free up any stuck weapon.

Any creature can be attacked by standing next to it and pressing {{k|Shift}}+{{k|A}}. Attacking a friendly or unconscious creature (which includes wild animals for elves) will further require a confirmation, given using {{k|alt}}+{{k|y}}.

Attacking a creature with {{k|A}} will allow you to make an '''aimed attack'''. You must first select the body part that you want to attack. Look at the difficulty rating for various possible attacks. Impossible attacks will be impossible to land and Easier attacks will be very easy to land. The difficulty rating for an attack does not change depending on your weapon skill. Based on player experiences, a Grand Master weapon user can almost always land a "Tricky" strike, while a Novice generally cannot. Attacks on various locations will also have limits on how "squarely" they can land (due to being out of reach, for example). Square and very square attacks will deal more damage.{{Verify}} Attacks which "can't land squarely" are generally still effective.

Attacks aimed at the head are the most effective; a single attack to the cranium with a weapon will usually put an end to the fight. Aimed attacks are especially useful for dismembering opponents. Opponents who are missing a foot will fall over, thereby greatly lowering their speed, and giving you an immediate edge in the fight. Cutting off both hands also highly recommended for obvious reasons. After all, a field full of armless, one-legged enemies can be a big experience booster for your companions.

Aimed attacks are also especially helpful when fighting giant beasts. Some enemies like giant desert scorpions have lots of redundant body parts, and random attacks waste valuable time on low priority areas while the scorpion is busy injecting venom into the whole party. Very large enemies, like giants and hydras, are too tall for effective strikes at the head. Fighting such beasts with random attacks will prove mostly futile until the monster has been knocked over, either due to spinal injuries or loss of feet. Lastly, aimed attacks allow you to grab trophies that are not available via butchering. For example, a minotaur's horns can be cut off during a fight, but since its a humanoid, most adventurers will refuse to butcher its corpse after the fight.

=== Ranged Attacks ===

To attack with a ranged weapon press the {{k|f}} key and select the square where you want to attack. Similarly use the {{k|t}} key to throw any random object in the same manner. Random objects appear to make a random attack if they happen to have more than one possible type.{{Verify}} For example, if you throw a sword it may hit with a blunt impact, a stabbing impact, or a slicing impact. Throwing crossbow bolts with sufficient throwing skill and strength seems to have an affect similar to firing them, although less powerful. On the plus side, you will never lose ammo if you throw it.

It is not possible to aim for specific body parts with ranged or thrown attacks.

Throwing is generally a good skill to have for any adventurer, as it allows you to slow down fleeing foes, both on the ground and in the air without the need of equipping a (cross)bow. Just like {{k|l}}ooking, you can use throwing to view and hit enemies multiple Z levels away from you. If you're lucky, you can simply land a hit that causes the flying enemy to give into pain, and then let gravity do the rest of the work. Even if the fall doesn't kill them, they will most likely be stunned long enough for you to run up and slaughter them.

=== Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks ===

:''Main article: [[Wrestling]]''

'''[[Wrestling]]''' (grappling) can be performed by standing next to an enemy and pressing {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}} to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy. Wrestling works somewhat like a targeted attack. Once you grab a creature by some body part, you may be able to make another wrestling attempt that will allow you to perform a throw or takedown.

For a detailed list of moves such as takedowns, throws, choke holds, etc, see [[Wrestling]].

It's also possible to punch, kick, and bite. These are not in the wrestling menu but are performed like normal targeted attacks with {{k|A}}.

=== Weapons ===

[[Weapon]]s are basically divided into axe, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area.

=== Wounds ===

If you get wounded during combat, there's not much that you can do except perhaps run before you get more wounded. Your wounds will heal over time, so just travel around or sleep in a safe place. Some wounds however may never heal, leaving you permanently crippled. Obtaining a crutch may help with this. Or if you are not already a vampire, then you can get bitten by a werebeast during full moon, which will heal all injuries once per month.

If you have some bolts or arrows stuck in your body, they can be removed by using the complex interaction menu {{k|I}}. Select the stuck bolt or arrow from the list and then pull it out with {{k|a}} You'll probably start bleeding after you pull it out, but the bleeding is rarely anything to worry about.

=== Combat Preferences ===

At any time during gameplay (Except travel mode), you can press {{k|C}} to open the Combat Preferences menu. There are three different preferences you can set: Attack, Dodge and Charge Defense. These have a few different preferences each:

*'''{{k|a}}ttack'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - The default setting. When set to this, charging happens more or less frequently, depending on the difference in size between you and the opponent. Bigger opponents get charged less, smaller more often. Can be very risky, since a random charge against a huge opponent is likely to get you knocked down and stunned. In the same vein, charging when close to obstacles or other environmental hazards is very dangerous, potentially fatal, if the enemy dodges you.
**'''Strike''' - This setting ensures that you never charge an opponent, but rather just swing your weapon at them. This carries less risk than the above, but you're never going to knock anyone down without hitting their legs or spine. Very preferable against large opponents.
**'''Charge''' - When set to this, you ALWAYS charge. When faced with numerous small enemies (Bogeymen in particular), this can be extremely useful, but remember to switch back when facing something bigger. Charging a large dragon is almost a certain death sentence.
**'''Close Combat''' - With this setting, all your auto-attacks are grapples. Generally not very useful, since the random nature of it tends to prevent you from actually doing any damage with it.

*'''{{k|d}}odge'''
**'''Move Around''' - This means you can jump away from attacks, physically moving in a random direction. While this lets you dodge attacks more often, it can also result in you jumping into a wall or down a lake. If you're fighting in really tight spaces, you might want to switch it off.
**'''Stand Ground''' - As can be expected, you stand your ground. No jumping around, which is useful in the above situation, but risky in the open. If you have room for jumping around, go with Move Around, but otherwise this could be a good idea.

*'''{{k|c}}harge Defense'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - Again, the default setting. You're more likely to stand still against small enemies charging, but will probably prefer moving away from larger ones. Somewhat risky, in that even a somewhat small enemy can stun you by charging.
**'''Dodge Away''' - With this, you'll dodge away from charging enemies, if you can. It's not a sure bet, but it's very much worth it against enemies who like to charge. This is probably the most preferable mode, since you're not losing a whole lot by dodging a small foe charging, but dodging an angry night beast can save you from a world of pain.
**'''Stand Ground''' - If you're certain of your physical superiority to the opponent, you can choose this. Standing your ground like a real man/woman might feel hardcore, but getting knocked down in a fight can be extremely dangerous. It probably has some use against bogeymen though, since they're quite small. If you really are much bigger than the enemy, you'll end up knocking THEM down. Most of the time though, charges heavily favor the attacker, so dodging away is probably preferable.

Using Combat Preferences properly can actually save your hide, so it's worth fiddling with. Just don't forget that you've fiddled with them, since a malplaced charge or dodge could end up killing you.

== Talking ==
[[File:adventurer-talking.png|thumb|400px|Talking to someone in Adventurer mode.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|k}}
| Talk to somebody
|}

Now that you know how to kill people, you may also want to know how to talk to and otherwise interact with them in a less violent manner. While this is less entertaining, it can sometimes be useful.

Press {{k|k}} to enter tal{{k|k}} mode. Move the cursor over a being and a list of language-capable beings on that tile will be shown in the lower left of the screen. If there is more than one creature on the tile, you can select the one you want to talk to using the {{k|-}}/{{k|+}} keys. Hit {{k|Enter}} to begin the conversation.

Normally you will need to Greet someone first, then you will have the following options when it comes to subjects of discussion:
*'''Trade''' - Attempt to initiate [[#Shops|trade]]. This only works for NPCs in shops.
*'''Join''' - Ask the individual to join you as one of your [[#Companions|Companions]]. Soldiers will join you 100% of the time if you don't already have too many companions, but the chance of regular townsfolk joining you will be highly impacted by your reputation.
*'''Surroundings''' - Ask about sites and things in the general geographical area. This may reveal hidden sites (such as lairs) on the map, and may also reveal bits of history such as "in 123 Urist McSucker founded Boatmurdered". This can be selected repeatedly to reveal multiple facts about the area.
*'''Capital''' - Ask where the capital of the current civilization is. As with the '''Surroundings''' topic, a random bit of the capitol's history will also be given.
*'''Service''' - Ask for a [[#Quests|quest]].
*'''Profession''' - Ask the individual about their profession. If the person is willing to '''Join''' you, they will add a line such as "How I long for some excitement in my life..".
*'''Family''' - Ask about a random family member. If the person has more than one family member then selecting this option repeatedly will eventually reveal all of them. Like Surroundings this can also reveal bits of information about history such as "Gor Lorthor was my son. In 123, Gor Lorthor was struck down by Trogdor the Flames of Burninating the Dragon."
*'''Accuse of being a night creature''' - If the individual is a vampire in hiding, then they will become hostile to all around them and will fight you. Note, if said vampire has a cult (vampire law-givers always do from what I've seen) the cultists will reveal themselves as well and become hostile to any non-vampire (the one the cult is based around, that is) non-cultist they see, including you.
*'''Report success/spread news''' - This option will only appear once you have completed a quest. Selecting it will cause you to regale people with tales of your amazing adventures, increasing your fame/reputation level. After you have done this once, with one person, the option will not appear again anywhere in any conversation until another quest has been completed. Basically everyone is telepathic and doesn't want to hear the same story again.
*'''Goodbye''' - End the conversation.

Sometimes other options may also appear. Experiment with them and see what happens.

== Companions ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|c}}
| View companion interface
|}

Companions are the guys who follow you around after you've asked them to Join and they've accepted. Your character will have a limit on the maximum number of companions that is based on fame/reputation level and the ''Social Awareness'' attribute. With average social awareness and the maximum level of fame, the limit is 19 companions.

You can use the {{k|c}} key to open up a list showing your companions and their relative position to you. This can be useful if one of them runs off somewhere and you want to find them. You can select specific companions who are in visual range in order to view them. This is the same as viewing them with {{k|l}}ook.

Short of using special utilities and hacks, you can't change your companions' equipment. When they die you can loot their corpses however. (One devious and evil way to get equipment is to intentionally get your companions killed and then take their stuff.)

However, if they survive long enough/are trained well enough they seem to be capable of leveling stats or skills in some way, and are susceptible to having title or job title changed as well.

Your companions will continue to follow you and fight hostile creatures around you until they either die or are left behind by entering fast travel mode while they are too far away from you. Companions with missing feet and legs will attempt to hobble along behind you. If you need to ditch '''ALL''' of your companions, retire your adventurer in a settlement, and start playing that adventurer again. You will lose all companions by doing this(as well as resetting your thirst/hunger/sleep needs.)

If you keep losing your companions while traveling through rivers, try going to a spot where the river becomes a "minor river(single dark blue line.)" Brooks are obviously also safe to cross.

== Civilization ==

Civilizations are organized groups of creatures (generally of the same race) which build sites such as towns.

=== Towns ===

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and shops.

Towns appear on the fast travel map as {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} or {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} symbols which are small collections of buildings. Yellow buildings indicate the presences of shops where you can trade. The buildings can be spaced rather far apart, so even when you get your @ on top of a {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} it might take some wandering about in local travel mode to find a building.

Once you find a building, step through the door. It should have multiple U's, each of which is a human.

=== Fortresses ===

Humans also live in fortresses which appear on the fast travel map as large buildings. You can't walk over them. Instead you must move over to what looks like the entrance, exit fast travel with {{k|>}}, and walk toward the direction of the fortress.

Fortresses, if they haven't been abandoned, will be populated by soldiers, a Lord or Lady of some sort, and possibly others. If they have been abandoned then they may be overrun by various wild animals. They do not contain shops.

If control of a civilization has been taken over by a Demon, the fortress may be empty except for that demon, who acts as the Lord. He will behave as any human lord. Sometimes in an abandoned fort you might also find a demon that is a prisoner, who you can actaully recruit without any significant amount of fame. If they can be trusted or not is more or less up for debate, but it is still better than Urist McFaceplant.

=== Other Sites ===

'''Note:''' Currently, only humans have civilization sites.

Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are two-tile-wide hallways, empty 5x5 rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Shops ===

==== Trading (barter) ====
In human towns (not hamlets or castles), you can find [[building|shops]]. Once you're inside of a shop and right next to any of the NPCs, you can use {{K|k}} to talk to him/her, then select trade. Use {{K|Enter}} to select which items to trade, left/right arrow keys to switch between the list of shop items and your items, and up/down arrow keys to scroll through the lists. Once done, press {{K|t}} to trade. The shopkeeper won't get angry if you're not offering enough in trade, so you can start offering just a few items, keep trying again with a little more until the trade is accepted. Once the trade is accepted all of the items you offered will be on the floor underneath you.

After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it. If NPCs are standing directly over the items you just bought, go prone with the {{K|s}} key so you can move onto the same space as them and pick them up.

Due to some limitations, there are only "human town" shopkeepers in a pre-fab Adventure mode civilization.

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' move a considerable distance before allowing you to quick travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

In recent versions, you may find towns that are entirely deserted. In this case, you can steal from their shops with no consequences.

'''Note that if you steal anything, then nobody in that civilization will talk to you anymore, making it impossible for you to get new quests, use the shops, or get new companions.'''

==== Selling and buying with money ====
In addition to bartering, you can sell items to a shop for coins, then use the coins to buy stuff at another shop. Just select the items you want to sell or buy, and then set a price using the following buttons:
* {{k|a}}sking for money for your goods.
* {{k|o}}ffering money for their goods.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit.

When you end the trade session ({{k|esc}}), the items you sold will be dropped at your feet, and the balance of your coins and the items you bought will appear in your hands.

====Managing coins====
You will find that coins from one civilization are nearly worthless in other civilizations. This will typically result in adventurers carrying around lots of now useless coins. Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first. Alternatively, you can take your excess coinage and use it to purchase [[Gem|large gems]] at a trinket shop. Large gems make good investments because they are 1) light, 2) variably priced, and 3) equally valuable between different civilizations.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most notably giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves or goblins for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world - please harvest responsibly.

==== Where to get items to sell ====
The best place to get items to sell is at bandit camps, after you've slaughtered all the bandits. You can loot the clothes and equipment off of the corpses of the bandits (and off your fallen companions, too), plus at the very center of camp there'll be a few scattered weapons and a few bags/chests containing various goods.

The next best way to get items to sell is to kill non-talking monsters, butcher their corpses (see below for how), and pick up the edible bits. Butchered bits from the corpses of people (dwarves, elves, humans, etc) can sometimes be found in monster lairs and these seem to be just as desired by shopkeepers as the products you gain from your own butchering.

Another good early source of income can be bags left in abandoned houses/shops, which usually contain plants and food.No one will complain, and the plants inside can be sold at about 2☼ each plus the value of the bag.

At the bottom of the list comes {{k|L}}ooking Carefully and selling any small creatures you might find. However, shops will not accept live creatures unless they are in cages. Some rocks, piles of sand, and other things found on the ground nearly everywhere can also be sold for 1☼ each.

You can also try filling your backpack from river - it can hold up to 100 units of water which is worth 100☼ total. After your sell it, water will drop to the floor as a pool, and backpack can be refilled instantly and for free from there. In fact, you can infinitely fill any container from any pool/pile of any liquid/powder, so if you happen to find some precious substance like [[sunshine]] or [[dwarven sugar]], money won't be a problem for you anymore. This may be considered an [[exploit]] by some, though.

== Quests ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Q}}
| Adventure (Quest) log (tasks, map, et cetera...)
|}

Once you have a quest, press {{K|Q}} to look at them (this screen is called the Adventure Log). The world map is on the left, with your current location highlighted by a blinking "O", while on the right is the list of your quests. You can select a quest and press {{K|z}} to find the location of the quest site: the blinking "O" will move to the quest site, with a green line drawing the path you need to take. Pressing {{K|m}} will tell you the species of the monster you're supposed to kill. You can also use the arrow keys to move the "O" around to examine the surrounding terrain and sites.

Note that once you complete a quest that you can report your success to ''any'' human. Once you tell one human, everyone in the same civilization will know about it. The Adventure Log will tell you to report back to a particular hamlet/town/castle, but you can safely ignore that.

If you're having trouble finding the site on the fast travel map for some reason, exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}}. In the upper left-hand corner of the screen will be a box with symbols running down the left-hand side. At the top of the box will be the symbol of your quest site, with the compass direction to the site at to its right, and "TSK" to the right of the direction indicating an unfinished quest at that site. You can then go back into fast travel mode and head in that direction.

Once you get to the quest site, you'll be unable to enter it when using quick travel mode. Attempting to do so will give the message "You cannot travel through the [site]". You must exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}} and move the rest of the way using the normal movement mode. The box in the upper left-hand corner will tell you the direction to go. When you complete the quest the "TSK" will be gone from the site's line in the box, and looking at the Adventure Log ({{K|Q}}) will show "Report Death of ..." instead of "Kill ...". You then have to move off the site using the slow travel method before entering quick travel mode again with {{K|T}} (trying to do so on the site will tell you "You cannot travel until you leave this site".)

==Crafting==
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|x}}
| Perform action (butcher, create item...)
|}

Adventurers can perform limited crafting, (also known as "reactions"). To access the crafting menu, press {{k|x}}.

'''Knapping''' allows an adventurer to sharpen a rock. '''Knapping does not work with stones in containers, only ones on the ground or in your hand.'''<br />Stones can only be {{k|d}}ropped if the stone type does not naturally exist in the biome you are in, so to use ground stones it is worthwhile to {{k|T}}ravel far from the area you {{k|g}}ot the stones. Otherwise, you can place both stones into your hands. This can be achieved by {{k|d}}ropping whatever is held in your left and right hands, then {{k|g}}etting small stones from the ground. Next, press {{k|x}} to open the action menu, and press {{k|c}}reate and then {{k|→}} to select "Make sharp stone". You will be prompted to choose a rock to sharpen ("tool stone"), and then the hammerstone. The tool stone will be replaced in your hand by a sharp version.

'''Butchering''' acts similarly to Fortress Mode's [[Butchery]] by converting a corpse into edible products, bones, and skin. A corpse must be {{k|d}}ropped onto the ground to be butchered, or held in one hand. With a sharp object (such as a dagger or knapped stone or even a bolt/arrow) in your hand or on the same tile of the corpse, press {{k|x}}, {{k|b}}, and {{k|→}} to select the corpse, and then the sharp tool. The corpse will be replaced by its butchering returns.

These are the only reactions possible in an unmodified game though others can be added through modding.

== FAQ ==

===How do I get past NPCs which are in my way?===
Press {{K|s}} to sit, then move to roll between their legs. Once you're done press {{K|s}} to stand again.

===How do I find an entrance to the underworld?===
You cannot find caves by asking for quests. Instead, repeatedly ask NPCs about the surroundings, and they might tell you about the location of a cave. If this doesn't show any caves, travel to a hamlet/town/castle some distance away and try again.

===I keep getting maimed and killed! How can I fight without getting seriously hurt?===
The best offense is a good defense. If you let your enemies attack you, you're (unsurprisingly) likely to get hurt eventually.
* Try to ''avoid fighting difficult enemies until you get some armor''. Don't fight enemies at all unless you're sure you can beat them. If you're unsure, you're probably going to get hurt.
* If you have good speed, try to ''fight enemies one-by-one'' - keep moving backwards and only attack when you're within range of just one enemy.
* If you have a slashing weapon, try to ''chop parts off of your enemy'' - it makes them stop fighting for a turn, allowing you to keep attacking them without being attacked in exchange. Chopping off limbs will also weaken your enemies - taking their arms can prevent them from using weapons, taking their legs can make them slow and knock them down.
* Remember that ''it's better to let your enemy come to you, than to go to your enemy''. You have to either move or attack. If you move, you can't attack, so if you move within range to attack your enemy, you allow them to have the first strike (unless you're much faster than them). On the other hand, if you let them move within range of you, then you get to have the first strike.
* Follow the advice under [[#Combat Preferences|Combat Preferences]].

===How can I obtain armor as quickly as possible?===
* Here's the evil way. If you don't mind causing an entire civilization to be hostile to you (preventing trade, et al, with that civ):
** It's relatively easy to obtain some armor by killing a sleeping soldier in a fort and taking his stuff.
** Most villagers are pretty easy to kill and while their stuff isn't usually too valuable it is worth something. Instead of killing animals you can go around killing villagers and taking their stuff, then travel to another civilization that doesn't know (or maybe care) how evil you are in order to trade.
** Don't try this in the beginning if the next civilization over is more than a day or so away. You need to be able to flee to another country in order to escape justice and continue to quest/trade.
* Pick companions with good equipment so you can "inherit" it when they get killed. Letting them do all of the fighting for a while might help speed up this process. While this might be kind of evil, it's not as evil as the first option and will cause you much less trouble.

<div id="powerleveling"></div>

===How do I increase my skills and attributes? (powerleveling)===

Here are some techniques for raising your skills, very rapidly in some cases.

Most of these skill-raising techniques involve repeatedly entering the same keystrokes. To assist with this you can use a [[Main:Macro|Macro]] to make entering the same sequence of keystrokes over and over again much easier.

Increasing skills increases associated attributes which may in turn benefit other skills. For example, sharpening rocks using {{k|x}} will increase Knapping which will increase a number of attributes that help with combat skills. See [[Attribute#Skills_and_associated_attributes|Skills and Associated Attributes]] for a mostly complete list.

*'''Fighting and Wrestling''' - A good way to raise your Fighting and Wrestling skills and related attributes is to go find a small relatively harmless animal and wrestle with it over and over again. You can wrestle using {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}}. Continually grabbing and releasing a creature is sufficient to raise your skill, and this will not injure the animal so you can do it infinitely with the same one. Wrestling will increase Endurance as well as other stats.
*'''Shield User, Armor User, and Dodging''' - In addition to wrestling the creature, you can also sit and let it attack you to raise your defensive skills. If you have metal armor then a small animal like a gopher can't do any real damage to you even if it hits. Also change your {{K|C}}ombat preferences to "stand ground" to increase the amount of shield blocking you do, unless you want more dodging practice than shield practice.
*'''Weapon Skills and Fighting''' - Once your defensive skills are getting up there and your agility is high enough to make your speed 1300+, you might want to try fighting bogeymen to increase your weapon skill. Just make sure to fight them one at a time while running away. If you don't know what a bogeyman is yet then you are probably not ready to try this. Also, doing difficult targeted shots will gain more experience and keep the training dummy alive longer.
*'''Throwing and Archery''' - Throwing rocks with {{k|t}} will raise your Throwing and Archery skills. Being able to throw objects at creatures, while not terribly devastating (In fact, it used to be. In early 31.xx, somebody killed a bronze colossus by throwing a fluffy wambler at its head. We can only hope the wambler survived.), can still come in handy. Since throwing also raises your archery skill, you can improve your aim with bows and crossbows by throwing, but it is also possible to improve bow/crossbow skills without wasting ammunition.
*'''Marksman, Bowman, and Archery''' - Raising the bow and crossbow weapon-specific skills is best done by shooting at a wall or cliff with no floor in front of it. If bolts or arrows hit a wall that has a floor (or ground) in front of it on the same z-level the ammunition will be destroyed, however ''ammunition that falls at least one z-level after hitting a wall will remain intact.'' So, you just need to find something like a hill inside a castle, stand on the hill, then shoot at the wall on the same z-level that you're on. The arrows will hit the wall and fall one z-level to the ground, remaining intact. You can then go pick up the arrows and fire them at the wall from the hill again, ad infinitum. You can also stand next to a wall that's at least 2 z-levels high, then shoot up a z-level at the wall by hitting {{k|<}} after you hit {{k|f}}. How ever you decide to do it, the key is that the arrow needs to be able to fall at least one z-level after it hits a wall in order to remain intact. Using a macro will speed this up greatly.
*'''Ambushing and Swimming''' - When approaching a camp or other site, you may want to use {{k|S}} to sneak in and loot any loose items first. While it's very slow, you can sneak over large distances instead of using fast travel in order to increase your sneaking skill (Ambushing). It's also possible to sneak and swim at the same time, so training these things can be combined. Just make sure you '''start with at least Novice in swimming''' or you will find it practically impossible to train swimming.
*'''Observer''' - You can't really powerlevel this skill as it is slow and difficult to train, which is why you're advised to sink some points into it during character creation. One way to train this skill appears to be sleeping or walking around in the wilderness, repeatedly getting ambushed. Running away from the ambush, if you can, will probably allow you to repeat this cycle faster if you live. Detecting traps found in tombs and catacombs successfully (done automatically) will also raise Observer, though without decent starting skill to begin with, you would be torn to pieces by the traps you failed to see. Once you've found one or more traps, it is possible to grind experience by sleeping/waiting an hour, which will reset them, then re-detect them, and repeat.
*'''Spatial and Kinesthetic Sense''' - Sharpening rocks with {{k|x}} will improve your Knapping skills, but more importantly, raising these skills with raise your Spatial Sense and Kinesthetic Sense attributes which help with a number of other skills. This can be combined with throwing, using a macro, to keep your inventory from filling up.
*'''Other Stats''' - Other useful stats like Strength, Agility, and Toughness will increase significantly as the fighting and defense skills increase, so you don't need to do anything other than what you'd normally be doing to increase these.

===I managed to escape but my limbs are chopped off. Now what?===

It's just a fleshwound!

Unfortunately, there is currently no way to get them back, but as long as you have at least one leg and one arm left you can actually do pretty well. First, get a crutch from somewhere, such as a general store, and make sure it's in one of your hands. Once you do that you should be able to {{k|s}}tand back up again. You will notice that your speed is now much slower than before.

Now go find someplace reasonably safe and walk back and forth until your Crutch Walking skill gets up to Legendary or above. You will notice your speed increasing as your skill levels up until your speed is completely back to normal. As a bonus you'll probably see some stat increases as well. You can continue to dodge with a crutch just as well as before.

You can wield a sword, shield, and crutch all in one hand, so even if you are missing an arm then you're all set. If you are missing both arms but still have both legs then unfortunately you'll be limited to biting, dodging, and wrestling with legs. If you're missing both arms and one leg then your movement will be limited and you'll be limited to biting and wrestling with your one remaining leg. And if all limbs are missing then you'll be limited to rolling around on the ground biting things.

Though you might actually be able to do surprisingly well as a Legendary Biter, especially if you powerlevel your strength to the point where you can shake things around by the teeth ripping limbs off, if you lose both legs then your character is going to be severely limited just due to the poor movement rate, so at that point it's probably best to opt for retirement or a glorious death in battle.

Becoming a [[werebeast]] will enable you to regenerate limbs during the transformation to your animal form every Full Moon.
=== How do I keep my companions from running off after random wildlife? ===

In unmodified games, only human companions are typically available and humans currently seem to have the philosophy that all wildlife MUST DIE AN IMMEDIATE BRUTAL DEATH ASAP. While there's currently no way to order them to ignore wildlife and other neutral creatures, you can modify the ''raw\objects\entity_default.txt'' file and add the '''<nowiki>[AT_PEACE_WITH_WILDLIFE]</nowiki>''' to the entity definition for humans. This will cause humans to have an elf-like attitude toward wildlife, and vice versa. Humans will then avoid killing animals and animals will not run away from humans, also giving you somewhat of an advantage when hunting as a human.

Animals... you either love them and they love you, or they must die a horrible death right now.

===How do I become a vampire?===

The only way to become one is to first find one, kill it, and then "eat" its blood. More about vampires [[Vampire|here]].

=See Also=
*[[Main:Adventure Mode quick reference|Adventure Mode quick reference]]
*[[Adventure mode quick start|quick start guide]]

{{Getting Started}}
{{Category|Adventurer mode}}
{{Category|Interface}}

v0.34:Adventurer mode

2012-06-03T21:56:16Z

Riking: /* Soul */ fixed italic names; added editorial note

{{quality|Exceptional|15:19, 17 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

:''This is a detailed reference guide for Adventurer Mode. For a tutorial see the [[Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide]].
:''See [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] to quickly look up key commands.

In '''adventurer mode''' (also called "adventure mode") you create a single adventurer ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) who starts out somewhere in one of your generated worlds. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[cave]]s, shrines, lairs, abandoned towers, and other [[Site|towns and settlements]]. You can even visit your abandoned [[fortress]]es and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creature]]s that sealed their fate.

Unlike [[fortress mode]], adventurer mode is a sort of advanced [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandbox_game open world] version of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogue_%28computer_game%29 rogue] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nethack nethack] taking place in the same procedurally generated worlds used for fortress mode, but you control a single character in a turn-based manner rather than manage a group of creatures acting in real time.

=World Selection=

You can play Adventurer mode in any world that has a civilization with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token (which are elf, dwarf, and human in unmodded raws) but as of the current version only human civilizations have towns, NPC fortresses, or shops {{v|0.34.07}}. As a result you need at least one human civilization if you want quests or anything but basic wilderness survival. Alternately, you can alter the other races to also use human towns -- see the talk page under "Dwarven Fortresses."

If you have previously built a fort in the world that you select, your adventurer will be able to go visit it. However, the fort must be abandoned because you will not be able to start an adventure mode game in the same world with an active fortress mode game. Note, though, that you can always save your fortress mode game, duplicate the save folder (copy ''regionX'' to ''regionX-copy'' or something), abandon the fortress in the copy of the world, then start adventure mode in the new clone world.

=Character Creation=

==Race and Civilization==

Any race with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token is playable in adventure mode. In an unmodded game this means [[Dwarves]], [[Elves]], and [[Human|Humans]]. All three races can complete the same quests.

*'''Civilized Humans''' begin with bronze or iron weapons and can use any of the items sold by shopkeepers (who, for the time being, are only found in human towns and only sell human-sized clothing/armor). They also start with the widest variety of weapon skills.

*'''Human Outsiders''' can only start with Spear User and Knife User as weapon skills, and they cannot start with Armor User or Shield User. They also start out literally naked with no clothing, but can wear any human-sized armor that they trade for, steal, or loot. "Outsiders" of other races can be played if you add the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|INDIV_CONTROLLABLE]] token to the race's entity definition.

*'''Dwarves''' have the advantage of being able to go into a [[Martial trance|martial trance]] when fighting multiple foes at once. They are the only race which can start with steel weapons, but they wear "small" sized clothing (like goblins and elves) which means that they're unable to wear human clothing and armor found in shops. They can start with almost all of the same weapon skills as civilized humans. Most human-sized weapons (such as longswords) must be wielded two-handed by dwarves, due to their size.

*'''Elves''' start with very weak wooden weapons and have a more limited list of weapon skills during character creation. They have the advantage that they have higher natural speed. Like dwarves they wear small sized clothing so will have the same problem finding suitable armor in shops.

*'''Kobolds''' can be played only if there are no other civilizations and there are kobolds.

If no civilization for the given race exists in a world, you won't be able to play as that race except perhaps as a human outsider.{{Verify}}

== Status ==

Determines the number of starting skill and attribute points, which does not change based on race:
*'''Peasant:''' 15 attribute, 35 skill
*'''Hero:''' 35 attribute, 95 skill
*'''Demigod:''' 105 attribute, 161 skill
The number of skill points is less significant than the number of attribute points because the time it takes to go from Peasant to Demigod in skill terms is much less than what it would take to go from Peasant to Demigod in attribute terms.

== Starting Attributes ==

[[Attribute|Attributes]] are divided into Body and Soul attributes. This section provides some guidance for allocating attributes as it relates to adventurer mode.

=== Body ===

*'''Strength''' - Alters the damage done in melee, increases muscle mass (thicker muscle layer also resists damage more), and increases how much a creature can carry. Increasing strength, at least in adventurers, increases movement speed (albeit not as much as agility) due to better carrying capacity.
*'''Agility''' - This attribute is directly related to a character's Speed and is also used in combat skills.
*'''Toughness''' - Reduces physical damage. Also relates to defensive combat skills.
*'''Endurance''' - Reduces the rate at which the adventurer becomes exhausted. Used in Wrestling.
*'''Recuperation''' - Increases the rate of wound healing. Not as important as Toughness. Recuperation isn't that useful in adventurer mode since you usually have as much time to rest as you need assuming you can escape a situation alive.
*'''Disease Resistance''' - Reduces the risk of disease. Reduces the "risk" of becoming a vampire in adventurer mode.

Strength, Agility, and Toughness are the Body attributes that most impact combat skills, and Endurance to a lesser extent.

=== Soul ===

Some of these are useful for adventure-mode-applicable skills, but some are totally useless.

*'''Analytical Ability''' - Useful for certain crafting skills, the only one currently being Knapping.
*'''Focus''' - Affects Archer, Ambusher, Observer.
*'''Willpower''' - Fighter, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, and helps resist ''pain effects'' such as those caused by chipped bones.
*'''''Creativity''''' - Currently completely useless in adventure mode. Normally it impacts crafting skills.
*'''Intuition''' - Only helps with Observer.
*'''''Patience''''' - Currently useless.
*'''Memory''' - Records more of previously traveled areas when you return to them. Deletes all memory when you travel.
*'''''Linguistic Ability''''' - Currently useless because adventurers don't have social skills.
*'''Spatial Sense''' - Important. Affects combat skills, Ambusher, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, Observer, Knapping.
*'''''Musicality''''' - Completely useless as of yet.
*'''Kinesthetic Sense''' - Important. Combat skills, Crutch Walker, Swimming, Knapping,
*'''Empathy''' - Might increase chance of persuading people to Join you.{{Verify}}
*'''Social Awareness''' - Increases the number of followers you can have at a given "fame" level. Normally you start with a limit of two. Increasing this stat by one level raises that to three.

=== Attribute Advancement Cap ===

Adventure mode attributes are capped at double the starting value or the starting value plus the racial average, whichever is greater. Humans, for example, have a racial average strength of 1,000. If a human adventurer starts with an ''above average'' strength of 1,100, then his strength will ultimately be capped at 2,200. Had this human started with a ''below average'' strength of 900, then his strength would be capped at 1,900 instead. For the purpose of maximizing final attributes, this makes it important to start with as many attributes in the ''superior'' range as possible (more attributes per point allocated), while avoiding taking any penalties to even remotely important attributes (big attribute deductions per point recovered). As a consequence of the attribute cap, demi-god adventurers will always have a much higher potential for advancement than mere peasants and heroes.

== Starting Skills ==

Not all races have the same sets of skills available at character creation time, but keep in mind that all starting [[skill]]s, as well as ones not available at character creation, can be improved through use in game. [[Reader]] is an exception to this.

This section will specifically address starting skills as they relate to adventure mode. For a full description of combat skills see [[Combat skill]]. Other skills that you can't start with, but which can be increased in game (such as Butchery) are described elsewhere.

=== Weapon ===

The weapon you start out with will be based on which of these, plus the unarmed combat skills, is the highest. In other words, even if Swordsman is your highest weapon skill, you won't start with a sword if your Wrestler or Striker skills are better. Usually the best choice anyway is to specialize in just one melee weapon skill.Regardless of weapon skills, a '''large copper dagger''' will always be included in the starting equipment, which is handy for throwing to enemies that are just a step away or finishing off a foe pinned down by a stuck weapon.

Because these tend to take a bit longer to increase in game, it makes sense to put some points into one at the beginning.

Not all races/civilizations can start with all of these skills. (For example, Dwarves can't start with Bowman or Lasher).

*'''Axeman''' - allows characters to use axes, great axes, and halberds more effectively.
*'''Bowman''' - skill allows characters to use bows more effectively.
*'''Crossbowman''' - allows characters to use crossbows more effectively. The dwarven version is called '''Marksdwarf'''.
*'''Hammerman''' - allows characters to use crossbows in melee, mauls, and war hammers more effectively.
*'''Knife User''' - allows characters to use large daggers and knives more effectively.
*'''Lasher''' - allows characters to use whips and scourges more effectively.
*'''Maceman''' - allows characters to use flails, maces, and morningstars more effectively.
*'''Pikeman''' - allows characters to use pikes more effectively.
*'''Spearman''' - allows characters to use spears more effectively.
*'''Swordsman''' - allows characters to use blowguns and bows in melee, long swords, scimitars, short swords, and two-handed swords more effectively.

=== General Combat ===

These two skills can be raised rather quickly in game and so you probably want to skip spending any points on them at the start.

*'''Fighter''' - This increases with, and contributes to, melee combat whether armed or unarmed. It appears that the purpose of it is to allow melee experience to contribute to melee combat in general regardless of weapon. Repeatedly wrestling (grabbing and releasing) even a small creature will raise this skill.
*'''Archer''' - This increases with, and contributes to, ranged combat including throwing. It works similarly to Fighter except for ranged attacks. It can be easily raised by repeatedly throwing rocks, making it advisable for archers to practice their marksmanship with rock throwing before using up the more finite and expensive forms of ammunition. Shooting at a wall with adjacent upward ramp one level below and picking back projectiles is also a good idea (such places often happen to be in castles). See the FAQ section on [[#powerleveling|powerleveling]] for information on raising bowman/marksman skills.

=== Defensive ===

These skills are critical for survival. Starting out with good ability in one (especially Shield User or Armor User) if not all is strongly advised.

*'''Shield User''' - Ability to block attacks with shields. Starting with skill in this means that the adventurer will start with a shield.
*'''Armor User''' - Related to how well an adventurer moves in armor, and increases whenever an adventurer wearing armor is attacked. A higher level of this skill reduces the encumbrance penalties of armor, allowing up to normal speed movement when wearing full steel plate. Unfortunately, starting with this skill does not provide any starting armor.
*'''Dodger''' - Ability to dodge out of the way of attacks.

=== Unarmed Combat and Improvised Weapons ===

While some of them come in handy at times, they can generally be raised fairly easily in game, especially Wrestler and Thrower.

*'''Wrestler''' - Ability to grapple, restrain, take-down, throw opponents, etc. See [[#Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks]] for details. Can be raised very easily in game.
*'''Striker''' - Punching ability.
*'''Kicker''' - Kicking ability.
*'''Biter''' - Biting ability.
*'''Thrower''' - Throwing any miscellaneous object including rocks, knives, axes, swords, heads, etc.
*'''Misc. Object User''' - Ability to beat things to death with their own severed body parts, basically. Also somewhat more commonly used for shield bashing.

=== Movement and Awareness ===

*'''[[Observer]]''' - Helps one to notice things like ambushes and enemies who are "sneaking" (stealth movement). Detection range increases with skill. Hard to train. Adding some points here is advisable.
*'''[[Swimmer]]''' - Allows movement through water without drowning. A Novice swimmer can swim but will revert to being unable to swim if stunned, which happens when falling even 1 z-level into the water. An Adequate swimmer can swim normally (not drown) while stunned. For this reason, ''starting out as an Adequate swimmer is advisable.'' If you don't, at least start as Novice and go get some swimming practice right away.
*'''[[Ambusher]]''' - The skill of {{K|S}}neaking around unobserved. This can be raised fairly easily by sneaking around while traveling from place to place when speed is not important. At lower skill levels, speed is greatly reduced, but the penalty gradually reduces until negated at Legendary skill and it's possible to sneak at full movement rate. Chance of detection is also reduced at higher skill levels; a more skilled ambusher can remain in close combat for longer without being detected.

=== Crafting ===

These allow your character to create things. There is only one skill currently available in an unmodified game.

*'''Knapper''' - The fine art of sharpening rocks by banging them together in a clever manner. The resulting rocks become sharp rocks which do more damage when thrown and can be used for things requiring a sharp edge like butchering. Easy to raise in game and doing so helps with Kinesthetic and Spatial Sense.

=== Other ===

*'''[[Reader]]''' - Allows you to read books, signs, and writing in Adventurer mode. Novice level is required in order to become a [[Necromancer]]. There is no way to increase this skill.
*'''[[Butcher]]''' - The art of cutting bodies into many pieces. You cannot allocate points here during character creation.

= Gameplay =

== Common UI Concepts ==
{{KeyConventions|3}}

== Moving Around ==

=== Local Movement ===
[[File:adventure-local-map.png|thumb|400px|The local travel screen. The lower left shows a small overview map of the area. The upper right shows a small area 1 z-level above the adventurer in the middle. The adventurer is standing in front of the door to a house full of humans, and visibility behind the house is obscured. In the upper left is a small box showing the direction to various sites (which may be quite far away).]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|Alt}} and a direction key
| Move carefully / Deliberately enter dangerous terrain
|-
| {{k|<}} or {{k|Shift}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Ascend
|-
| {{k|>}} or {{k|Ctrl}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Descend
|-
| {{k|.}}
| Wait for a step
|-
| {{k|s}}
| Stand or lie down
|-
| {{k|S}}
| Sneak
|}

Unless your character is an outsider, you will start out in a human town or hamlet; in the standard tileset the @ sign is your character. In the lower left-hand corner of the screen is a mini-map, with the @ sign showing your relative location to other things in the town/hamlet. The ▐ symbols are small collections of buildings.

The directional keys allow movement. Diagonal movement is particularly important especially when chasing or running away from things.

Use {{k|Alt}}+direction to enter water, jump off of cliffs, or otherwise attempt to enter anything that you can't enter using normal movement commands. Note that when entering water it's best to enter the actual water and not the open space over the water as, in the later case, you will fall in causing you to become stunned which may lead to drowning.

Hitting {{k|.}} allows you to stay in one place and wait for other things to move.

Use {{k|s}} to sit/lay down. Moving while laying down (crawling) will let you move past NPCs which are standing in your way. Also note that you will frequently get knocked to the ground in combat, and if you don't hit {{k|s}} to stand back up then you will crawl slowly along the ground, giving your opponent a lot of opportunity to attack you.

{{k|S}}neak will allow you to move around invisibly, limited by your Ambusher skill and the Observer skill of nearby creatures. The closer you get to a creature, the more likely you are to be detected. Your movement rate will also be very slow at low Ambusher skill levels while sneaking. If you are within observation range of anything then you will be unable to go into stealth mode. Hiding somewhere you can't be seen (such as the inside edge of a murky pool, if you can swim) will allow you to go into stealth mode when creatures are around.

=== Fast Travel ===
[[Image:adventurer-fast-travel.png|thumb|400px|Fast Travel screen. A fort is on the west side, and a town is on the east side of the map. The regional map is displayed on the far right.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|T}}
| Fast Travel
|-
| {{k|>}}
| Exit fast travel mode
|}

Entering Fast Travel mode will allow you to move large distances in a single keypress. Of course, the same amount of time will go by and you can also be interrupted (ambushed) while moving in fast travel mode.

See the [[Map legend]] for information on what the map symbols mean. Settlements are indicated by {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} tiles and you can find houses by exiting fast travel while standing on one of these tiles. Yellow tiles of the same shape {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} indicate the presence of shops rather than houses.

Pressing {{K|m}} will put a fully zoomed-out map on the right side of the screen, with your current location marked by a blinking "X". When seeking out a quest, move in the direction of the quest site until the blinking "X" is on top of the symbols indicated in the Adventure Log (you can press {{K|Q}} at any time to look at it again).

Along the top of the map is a line showing the sky, and the position of the sun and/or moon from west to east. This primarily helps you determine how long you have before it gets dark at which point you won't be able to see very far and will be more vulnerable to attack.

While in the fast travel screen you can:

* {{k|c}} - Display/hide clouds/weather
* {{k|m}} - Display/hide the regional map on the right
* {{k|Q}} - Display the Quest log
* {{k|Z}} - Display the sleep menu

Other commands are not available until you exit fast travel with {{k|>}}.

== Status and Information ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|l}}
| Look around
|-
| {{k|Space}}
| Advance/Clear Messages
|-
| {{k|a}}
| View Announcements
|-
| {{k|z}}
| Status
|}

=== Looking Around ===

If you're not sure what a tile is, the {{k|l}}ook command will tell you. In addition to being useful for identifying tiles and creatures, you can also view creatures' equipment and what items are sitting on the ground in a given tile. If in doubt, try the look command.

Move the cursor to the tile you want to look at using direction keys and {{k|Shift}}+direction. It's possible to look up and down z-levels (assuming you have line of sight) using the {{k|<}} and {{k|>}} keys. This, for example, allows you to find out if any flying creatures are above you. Hit {{k|Esc}} to exit look mode and go back to movement mode.

=== Messages ===

The game makes frequent use of messages on the screen to tell you what is going on. If there are a lot of these you may need to use {{k|Space}} to display the rest of the messages that won't fit on the screen. You can always go back and view old messages by pressing {{k|a}}.

=== Status Screen ===

This screen shows your skills, attributes, wounded body parts, health (along with more detailed descriptions of your wounds), lets you view your description, and change your nickname if you want.

=== Saving the Game ===

Hit the {{k|Esc}} key at any time and select {{DFtext|Save Game}} to save your game. You can then come back to it later by using the {{DFtext|Continue Playing}} option in the main menu.

== Searching and Manipulating ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|u}}
| Interact with building, furniture, or mechanism
|-
| {{k|L}}
| Search the nearby area very carefully
|}

The {{k|u}} key can be used to do stuff like pull levers in your abandoned forts. It is also used to lower and raise the bucket when standing right next to a well so you can get water to refill your waterskin with.

{{k|L}} will perform a thorough search of the area that you're standing in, possibly revealing some small creatures.

== Managing Equipment ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|i}}
| Show Inventory
|-
| {{k|d}}
| Drop an item
|-
| {{k|g}}
| Get (pickup) an item off the ground
|-
| {{k|p}}
| Put an item into a container
|-
| {{k|r}}
| Remove an item you are wearing or from a container
|-
| {{k|w}}
| Wear an item
|-
| {{k|I}}
| Interact with an object in an advanced way. (unstick a weapon, refill waterskin etc)
|}

=== Inventory ===

Press {{k|i}} to display a list of what you are currently carrying. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list. This list will show you if items are being worn, held in hands, stuck in your body, or are inside a container. Detailed information about an object can be viewed by pressing the key associated with the item.

=== Getting/Dropping Things ===

You can {{k|d}}rop items in your inventory, as well as {{k|g}}et items on the ground on the same tile that you are standing on. If there is more than one item a menu will be listed. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list if the list is too long to fit on the screen.

{{k|g}} will also allow you to ignite foliage/any flammable objects adjacent to you. Fires aren't as devastating as one might imagine, but they will cause (most)enemies to path around them, making your crowd control slightly more effective when taking on multiple enemies. As an added bonus, it will also surely piss off the elves.

=== Containers ===

Items can be placed into containers with {{k|p}} and removed with {{k|r}}.

=== Wearing ===

Items can be worn using {{k|w}} and removed using {{k|r}} (the same command used for removing from containers). If an item you want to wear does not show up as an option then it means you are already wearing too many items in the location used by that item. Try {{K|r}}emoving items in that location and then wear them again in order of priority.

After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

See [[Armor]] for more information on wearing things. One thing to note in particular, DF allows you to wear more than one item in the same location in many situations.

=== Wielding ===

There is no command for wielding items such as [[Weapon]]s in specific hands. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapon]]s or [[shield]]s you should drop items or place them into containers (such as your backpack) until your hands are free, then get items from the floor or remove them from containers which will place them in your hands. For example, put all items into backpack, remove sword from backpack, remove shield from backpack. The items will end up in the right and left hand. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

=== Advanced Interaction ===

The {{k|I}} key allows "complex interaction" with objects in your inventory. This is used for removing arrows and weapons stuck in wounds, and refilling waterskins, but in theory various types of objects could implement some sort of behavior to be activated. Basically this is similar to "use" commands in other games.

This command is particularly useful for getting water. When standing next to a well you press the {{k|u}} key to lower, then raise the bucket, yielding 10 units of water in the bucket. Then you can press the {{k|I}} key to fill your waterskin from the full bucket (alternatively you can press the {{k|e}} key to drink directly from the bucket).

More importantly, this can be used next to a campfire to heat things, such as any frozen liquids you have in your inventory(or snow lying on the ground) and need to drink.

== Time and Weather ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|D}}
| Date/Time
|-
| {{k|P}}
| Temperature
|-
| {{k|W}}
| Weather
|}

The game has a day/night cycle with time passing as various actions take place. When in the fast travel screen you can just look at the bar along the top to see where the sun is an estimate the time, but in local travel mode you'll have to use the {{k|W}} command.

When using quick travel mode the top line of the screen will indicate the position of the sun in the sky with a yellow "☼"; further to the right of the screen is earlier in the day and further to the left is later in the day.

At night you won't be able to see nearly as well and you will be more vulnerable to ambush.

The game also has weather and temperature. Weather is, to some extent, directly viewable on the fast travel screen. Temperature is important because if it happens to drop below freezing while you're swimming through water, you're dead instantly. Therefore you might want to keep an eye on the temperature while swimming, especially if it's getting cold. Also, unlike fortress mode, rivers/other bodies of water can be liquid during the day, and freeze at night. The cycles of freezing can also be erratic from day to day.

Weather can also reduce visibility.

== Sleep ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Z}}
| Sleep
|}

Eventually your character will become {{DFtext|Drowsy|3:1}} and this will get worse until you get sufficient sleep.

Sleep does not necessarily have to coincide with night, but if you're traveling alone when night comes you'll be in danger of being attacked by [[bogeymen]]. To avoid this while traveling solo you need to make it to shelter before nightfall and sleep the night away inside a building or abandoned lair. Enter a building, use {{K|k}} to talk to a human, and ask for permission to stay the night. Next press {{K|Z}} to sleep, {{K|d}} to sleep until dawn, then {{K|Enter}} to confirm. ('''NOTE''': If you stay the night in a castle, you have to sleep in the keep which houses the lord/lady of the castle. Sleeping inside the castle but outside the keep still leaves you vulnerable to attack.) Sleeping on an ocean beach also prevents bogeymen from attacking. ('''NOTE''': You can disable bogeymen by going into advanced world builder and setting "Number of Night creatures" to 0)

Though sleeping inside can be safe, it's also limiting: any quest site you want to go to has to be within a daytime's round-trip time of a safe habitation, and you have to make your way to there by hopping from one habitation to the next, sleeping at each along the way. A way to avoid this is to travel with companions. If you have any companions with you then [[bogeymen]] won't attack you. You'll still have to sleep at night, though, both to avoid sleep deprivation and because there's no visibility at night. You can still be ambushed at night by wildlife, but that's much less likely than being ambushed by [[bogeymen]] when traveling alone. If you find yourself alone at night with nowhere safe to sleep, the safest best is to keep traveling until dawn, even if that means running around in circles. You will eventually feel unwell from sleep deprivation, but this can take a considerable time. You can make up for lost sleep once you've found your way to safety.

Note that sleeping in lairs, shrines, and labyrinths makes you safe from ambush, assuming that you or someone has killed whatever was living there. If you have sufficient shrines/lairs/etc between you and your goal and they are either uninhabited or inhabited by things you are capable of killing then you can travel from lair to lair using each lair as a safe lodging. This is much much safer than sleeping out in the open, day or night, even with companions.

If no other options are available, completely surrounding yourself with campfires will keep night marauders at bay as they cannot pass through the fires; the fires will go out after several hours and enable you to move on. The bogeymen or other enemies may be outside your line of sight, which will prevent you from firing arrows or throwing things at them. In this case, you will have to stand up and lie down {{K|s}} repeatedly until the enemies wander into your range, the fires go out and the enemies can path to you, or dawn breaks.

== Food and Drink ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|e}}
| Eat or drink something
|}

The easiest way to stay hydrated and full when starting out is by finding and fighting something weak (say, a vulture, or a raccoon, or a fox). You will almost certainly end up covered in blood. You can drink any liquid covering you using 'e' and then simply selecting the fluid - perhaps a little salty in real life, but in Dwarf Fortress it works. The corpse can then be butchered for edible parts, to cure your hunger - the first two problems are solved. It is possible that drinking vampire blood will lead to infection.

== Combat ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|A}}
| Attack an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|A}} then {{k|Enter}}
| Wrestle an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|f}}
| Fire a projectile
|-
| {{k|t}}
| Throw an item
|-
| {{k|C}}
| Open combat preferences interface
|}

[[Combat]] is the fine art of using physical force to cause injury and death, and it is particularly fun in Dwarf Fortress.

=== Melee Attacks ===

Hostile creatures can be attacked using a non-aimed attack by simply advancing towards your enemy using the arrow keys. Doing a non-aimed attack will also free up any stuck weapon.

Any creature can be attacked by standing next to it and pressing {{k|Shift}}+{{k|A}}. Attacking a friendly or unconscious creature (which includes wild animals for elves) will further require a confirmation, given using {{k|alt}}+{{k|y}}.

Attacking a creature with {{k|A}} will allow you to make an '''aimed attack'''. You must first select the body part that you want to attack. Look at the difficulty rating for various possible attacks. Impossible attacks will be impossible to land and Easier attacks will be very easy to land. The difficulty rating for an attack does not change depending on your weapon skill. Based on player experiences, a Grand Master weapon user can almost always land a "Tricky" strike, while a Novice generally cannot. Attacks on various locations will also have limits on how "squarely" they can land (due to being out of reach, for example). Square and very square attacks will deal more damage.{{Verify}} Attacks which "can't land squarely" are generally still effective.

Attacks aimed at the head are the most effective; a single attack to the cranium with a weapon will usually put an end to the fight. Aimed attacks are especially useful for dismembering opponents. Opponents who are missing a foot will fall over, thereby greatly lowering their speed, and giving you an immediate edge in the fight. Cutting off both hands also highly recommended for obvious reasons. After all, a field full of armless, one-legged enemies can be a big experience booster for your companions.

Aimed attacks are also especially helpful when fighting giant beasts. Some enemies like giant desert scorpions have lots of redundant body parts, and random attacks waste valuable time on low priority areas while the scorpion is busy injecting venom into the whole party. Very large enemies, like giants and hydras, are too tall for effective strikes at the head. Fighting such beasts with random attacks will prove mostly futile until the monster has been knocked over, either due to spinal injuries or loss of feet. Lastly, aimed attacks allow you to grab trophies that are not available via butchering. For example, a minotaur's horns can be cut off during a fight, but since its a humanoid, most adventurers will refuse to butcher its corpse after the fight.

=== Ranged Attacks ===

To attack with a ranged weapon press the {{k|f}} key and select the square where you want to attack. Similarly use the {{k|t}} key to throw any random object in the same manner. Random objects appear to make a random attack if they happen to have more than one possible type.{{Verify}} For example, if you throw a sword it may hit with a blunt impact, a stabbing impact, or a slicing impact. Throwing crossbow bolts with sufficient throwing skill and strength seems to have an affect similar to firing them, although less powerful. On the plus side, you will never lose ammo if you throw it.

It is not possible to aim for specific body parts with ranged or thrown attacks.

Throwing is generally a good skill to have for any adventurer, as it allows you to slow down fleeing foes, both on the ground and in the air without the need of equipping a (cross)bow. Just like {{k|l}}ooking, you can use throwing to view and hit enemies multiple Z levels away from you. If you're lucky, you can simply land a hit that causes the flying enemy to give into pain, and then let gravity do the rest of the work. Even if the fall doesn't kill them, they will most likely be stunned long enough for you to run up and slaughter them.

=== Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks ===

:''Main article: [[Wrestling]]''

'''[[Wrestling]]''' (grappling) can be performed by standing next to an enemy and pressing {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}} to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy. Wrestling works somewhat like a targeted attack. Once you grab a creature by some body part, you may be able to make another wrestling attempt that will allow you to perform a throw or takedown.

For a detailed list of moves such as takedowns, throws, choke holds, etc, see [[Wrestling]].

It's also possible to punch, kick, and bite. These are not in the wrestling menu but are performed like normal targeted attacks with {{k|A}}.

=== Weapons ===

[[Weapon]]s are basically divided into axe, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area.

=== Wounds ===

If you get wounded during combat, there's not much that you can do except perhaps run before you get more wounded. Your wounds will heal over time, so just travel around or sleep in a safe place. Some wounds however may never heal, leaving you permanently crippled. Obtaining a crutch may help with this. Or if you are not already a vampire, then you can get bitten by a werebeast during full moon, which will heal all injuries once per month.

If you have some bolts or arrows stuck in your body, they can be removed by using the complex interaction menu {{k|I}}. Select the stuck bolt or arrow from the list and then pull it out with {{k|a}} You'll probably start bleeding after you pull it out, but the bleeding is rarely anything to worry about.

=== Combat Preferences ===

At any time during gameplay (Except travel mode), you can press {{k|C}} to open the Combat Preferences menu. There are three different preferences you can set: Attack, Dodge and Charge Defense. These have a few different preferences each:

*'''{{k|a}}ttack'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - The default setting. When set to this, charging happens more or less frequently, depending on the difference in size between you and the opponent. Bigger opponents get charged less, smaller more often. Can be very risky, since a random charge against a huge opponent is likely to get you knocked down and stunned. In the same vein, charging when close to obstacles or other environmental hazards is very dangerous, potentially fatal, if the enemy dodges you.
**'''Strike''' - This setting ensures that you never charge an opponent, but rather just swing your weapon at them. This carries less risk than the above, but you're never going to knock anyone down without hitting their legs or spine. Very preferable against large opponents.
**'''Charge''' - When set to this, you ALWAYS charge. When faced with numerous small enemies (Bogeymen in particular), this can be extremely useful, but remember to switch back when facing something bigger. Charging a large dragon is almost a certain death sentence.
**'''Close Combat''' - With this setting, all your auto-attacks are grapples. Generally not very useful, since the random nature of it tends to prevent you from actually doing any damage with it.

*'''{{k|d}}odge'''
**'''Move Around''' - This means you can jump away from attacks, physically moving in a random direction. While this lets you dodge attacks more often, it can also result in you jumping into a wall or down a lake. If you're fighting in really tight spaces, you might want to switch it off.
**'''Stand Ground''' - As can be expected, you stand your ground. No jumping around, which is useful in the above situation, but risky in the open. If you have room for jumping around, go with Move Around, but otherwise this could be a good idea.

*'''{{k|c}}harge Defense'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - Again, the default setting. You're more likely to stand still against small enemies charging, but will probably prefer moving away from larger ones. Somewhat risky, in that even a somewhat small enemy can stun you by charging.
**'''Dodge Away''' - With this, you'll dodge away from charging enemies, if you can. It's not a sure bet, but it's very much worth it against enemies who like to charge. This is probably the most preferable mode, since you're not losing a whole lot by dodging a small foe charging, but dodging an angry night beast can save you from a world of pain.
**'''Stand Ground''' - If you're certain of your physical superiority to the opponent, you can choose this. Standing your ground like a real man/woman might feel hardcore, but getting knocked down in a fight can be extremely dangerous. It probably has some use against bogeymen though, since they're quite small. If you really are much bigger than the enemy, you'll end up knocking THEM down. Most of the time though, charges heavily favor the attacker, so dodging away is probably preferable.

Using Combat Preferences properly can actually save your hide, so it's worth fiddling with. Just don't forget that you've fiddled with them, since a malplaced charge or dodge could end up killing you.

== Talking ==
[[File:adventurer-talking.png|thumb|400px|Talking to someone in Adventurer mode.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|k}}
| Talk to somebody
|}

Now that you know how to kill people, you may also want to know how to talk to and otherwise interact with them in a less violent manner. While this is less entertaining, it can sometimes be useful.

Press {{k|k}} to enter tal{{k|k}} mode. Move the cursor over a being and a list of language-capable beings on that tile will be shown in the lower left of the screen. If there is more than one creature on the tile, you can select the one you want to talk to using the {{k|-}}/{{k|+}} keys. Hit {{k|Enter}} to begin the conversation.

Normally you will need to Greet someone first, then you will have the following options when it comes to subjects of discussion:
*'''Trade''' - Attempt to initiate [[#Shops|trade]]. This only works for NPCs in shops.
*'''Join''' - Ask the individual to join you as one of your [[#Companions|Companions]]. Soldiers will join you 100% of the time if you don't already have too many companions, but the chance of regular townsfolk joining you will be highly impacted by your reputation.
*'''Surroundings''' - Ask about sites and things in the general geographical area. This may reveal hidden sites (such as lairs) on the map, and may also reveal bits of history such as "in 123 Urist McSucker founded Boatmurdered". This can be selected repeatedly to reveal multiple facts about the area.
*'''Capital''' - Ask where the capital of the current civilization is. As with the '''Surroundings''' topic, a random bit of the capitol's history will also be given.
*'''Service''' - Ask for a [[#Quests|quest]].
*'''Profession''' - Ask the individual about their profession. If the person is willing to '''Join''' you, they will add a line such as "How I long for some excitement in my life..".
*'''Family''' - Ask about a random family member. If the person has more than one family member then selecting this option repeatedly will eventually reveal all of them. Like Surroundings this can also reveal bits of information about history such as "Gor Lorthor was my son. In 123, Gor Lorthor was struck down by Trogdor the Flames of Burninating the Dragon."
*'''Accuse of being a night creature''' - If the individual is a vampire in hiding, then they will become hostile to all around them and will fight you. Note, if said vampire has a cult (vampire law-givers always do from what I've seen) the cultists will reveal themselves as well and become hostile to any non-vampire (the one the cult is based around, that is) non-cultist they see, including you.
*'''Report success/spread news''' - This option will only appear once you have completed a quest. Selecting it will cause you to regale people with tales of your amazing adventures, increasing your fame/reputation level. After you have done this once, with one person, the option will not appear again anywhere in any conversation until another quest has been completed. Basically everyone is telepathic and doesn't want to hear the same story again.
*'''Goodbye''' - End the conversation.

Sometimes other options may also appear. Experiment with them and see what happens.

== Companions ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|c}}
| View companion interface
|}

Companions are the guys who follow you around after you've asked them to Join and they've accepted. Your character will have a limit on the maximum number of companions that is based on fame/reputation level and the ''Social Awareness'' attribute. With average social awareness and the maximum level of fame, the limit is 19 companions.

You can use the {{k|c}} key to open up a list showing your companions and their relative position to you. This can be useful if one of them runs off somewhere and you want to find them. You can select specific companions who are in visual range in order to view them. This is the same as viewing them with {{k|l}}ook.

Short of using special utilities and hacks, you can't change your companions' equipment. When they die you can loot their corpses however. (One devious and evil way to get equipment is to intentionally get your companions killed and then take their stuff.)

However, if they survive long enough/are trained well enough they seem to be capable of leveling stats or skills in some way, and are susceptible to having title or job title changed as well.

Your companions will continue to follow you and fight hostile creatures around you until they either die or are left behind by entering fast travel mode while they are too far away from you. Companions with missing feet and legs will attempt to hobble along behind you. If you need to ditch '''ALL''' of your companions, retire your adventurer in a settlement, and start playing that adventurer again. You will lose all companions by doing this(as well as resetting your thirst/hunger/sleep needs.)

If you keep losing your companions while traveling through rivers, try going to a spot where the river becomes a "minor river(single dark blue line.)" Brooks are obviously also safe to cross.

== Civilization ==

Civilizations are organized groups of creatures (generally of the same race) which build sites such as towns.

=== Towns ===

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and shops.

Towns appear on the fast travel map as {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} or {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} symbols which are small collections of buildings. Yellow buildings indicate the presences of shops where you can trade. The buildings can be spaced rather far apart, so even when you get your @ on top of a {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} it might take some wandering about in local travel mode to find a building.

Once you find a building, step through the door. It should have multiple U's, each of which is a human.

=== Fortresses ===

Humans also live in fortresses which appear on the fast travel map as large buildings. You can't walk over them. Instead you must move over to what looks like the entrance, exit fast travel with {{k|>}}, and walk toward the direction of the fortress.

Fortresses, if they haven't been abandoned, will be populated by soldiers, a Lord or Lady of some sort, and possibly others. If they have been abandoned then they may be overrun by various wild animals. They do not contain shops.

If control of a civilization has been taken over by a Demon, the fortress may be empty except for that demon, who acts as the Lord. He will behave as any human lord. Sometimes in an abandoned fort you might also find a demon that is a prisoner, who you can actaully recruit without any significant amount of fame. If they can be trusted or not is more or less up for debate, but it is still better than Urist McFaceplant.

=== Other Sites ===

'''Note:''' Currently, only humans have civilization sites.

Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are two-tile-wide hallways, empty 5x5 rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Shops ===

==== Trading (barter) ====
In human towns (not hamlets or castles), you can find [[building|shops]]. Once you're inside of a shop and right next to any of the NPCs, you can use {{K|k}} to talk to him/her, then select trade. Use {{K|Enter}} to select which items to trade, left/right arrow keys to switch between the list of shop items and your items, and up/down arrow keys to scroll through the lists. Once done, press {{K|t}} to trade. The shopkeeper won't get angry if you're not offering enough in trade, so you can start offering just a few items, keep trying again with a little more until the trade is accepted. Once the trade is accepted all of the items you offered will be on the floor underneath you.

After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it. If NPCs are standing directly over the items you just bought, go prone with the {{K|s}} key so you can move onto the same space as them and pick them up.

Due to some limitations, there are only "human town" shopkeepers in a pre-fab Adventure mode civilization.

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' move a considerable distance before allowing you to quick travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

In recent versions, you may find towns that are entirely deserted. In this case, you can steal from their shops with no consequences.

'''Note that if you steal anything, then nobody in that civilization will talk to you anymore, making it impossible for you to get new quests, use the shops, or get new companions.'''

==== Selling and buying with money ====
In addition to bartering, you can sell items to a shop for coins, then use the coins to buy stuff at another shop. Just select the items you want to sell or buy, and then set a price using the following buttons:
* {{k|a}}sking for money for your goods.
* {{k|o}}ffering money for their goods.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit.

When you end the trade session ({{k|esc}}), the items you sold will be dropped at your feet, and the balance of your coins and the items you bought will appear in your hands.

====Managing coins====
You will find that coins from one civilization are nearly worthless in other civilizations. This will typically result in adventurers carrying around lots of now useless coins. Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first. Alternatively, you can take your excess coinage and use it to purchase [[Gem|large gems]] at a trinket shop. Large gems make good investments because they are 1) light, 2) variably priced, and 3) equally valuable between different civilizations.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most notably giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves or goblins for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world - please harvest responsibly.

==== Where to get items to sell ====
The best place to get items to sell is at bandit camps, after you've slaughtered all the bandits. You can loot the clothes and equipment off of the corpses of the bandits (and off your fallen companions, too), plus at the very center of camp there'll be a few scattered weapons and a few bags/chests containing various goods.

The next best way to get items to sell is to kill non-talking monsters, butcher their corpses (see below for how), and pick up the edible bits. Butchered bits from the corpses of people (dwarves, elves, humans, etc) can sometimes be found in monster lairs and these seem to be just as desired by shopkeepers as the products you gain from your own butchering.

Another good early source of income can be bags left in abandoned houses/shops, which usually contain plants and food.No one will complain, and the plants inside can be sold at about 2☼ each plus the value of the bag.

At the bottom of the list comes {{k|L}}ooking Carefully and selling any small creatures you might find. However, shops will not accept live creatures unless they are in cages. Some rocks, piles of sand, and other things found on the ground nearly everywhere can also be sold for 1☼ each.

You can also try filling your backpack from river - it can hold up to 100 units of water which is worth 100☼ total. After your sell it, water will drop to the floor as a pool, and backpack can be refilled instantly and for free from there. In fact, you can infinitely fill any container from any pool/pile of any liquid/powder, so if you happen to find some precious substance like [[sunshine]] or [[dwarven sugar]], money won't be a problem for you anymore. This may be considered an [[exploit]] by some, though.

== Quests ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Q}}
| Adventure (Quest) log (tasks, map, et cetera...)
|}

Once you have a quest, press {{K|Q}} to look at them (this screen is called the Adventure Log). The world map is on the left, with your current location highlighted by a blinking "O", while on the right is the list of your quests. You can select a quest and press {{K|z}} to find the location of the quest site: the blinking "O" will move to the quest site, with a green line drawing the path you need to take. Pressing {{K|m}} will tell you the species of the monster you're supposed to kill. You can also use the arrow keys to move the "O" around to examine the surrounding terrain and sites.

Note that once you complete a quest that you can report your success to ''any'' human. Once you tell one human, everyone in the same civilization will know about it. The Adventure Log will tell you to report back to a particular hamlet/town/castle, but you can safely ignore that.

If you're having trouble finding the site on the fast travel map for some reason, exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}}. In the upper left-hand corner of the screen will be a box with symbols running down the left-hand side. At the top of the box will be the symbol of your quest site, with the compass direction to the site at to its right, and "TSK" to the right of the direction indicating an unfinished quest at that site. You can then go back into fast travel mode and head in that direction.

Once you get to the quest site, you'll be unable to enter it when using quick travel mode. Attempting to do so will give the message "You cannot travel through the [site]". You must exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}} and move the rest of the way using the normal movement mode. The box in the upper left-hand corner will tell you the direction to go. When you complete the quest the "TSK" will be gone from the site's line in the box, and looking at the Adventure Log ({{K|Q}}) will show "Report Death of ..." instead of "Kill ...". You then have to move off the site using the slow travel method before entering quick travel mode again with {{K|T}} (trying to do so on the site will tell you "You cannot travel until you leave this site".)

==Crafting==
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|x}}
| Perform action (butcher, create item...)
|}

Adventurers can perform limited crafting, (also known as "reactions"). To access the crafting menu, press {{k|x}}.

'''Knapping''' allows an adventurer to sharpen a rock. '''Knapping does not work with stones in containers, only ones on the ground or in your hand.'''<br />Stones can only be {{k|d}}ropped if the stone type does not naturally exist in the biome you are in, so to use ground stones it is worthwhile to {{k|T}}ravel far from the area you {{k|g}}ot the stones. Otherwise, you can place both stones into your hands. This can be achieved by {{k|d}}ropping whatever is held in your left and right hands, then {{k|g}}etting small stones from the ground. Next, press {{k|x}} to open the action menu, and press {{k|c}}reate and then {{k|→}} to select "Make sharp stone". You will be prompted to choose a rock to sharpen ("tool stone"), and then the hammerstone. The tool stone will be replaced in your hand by a sharp version.

'''Butchering''' acts similarly to Fortress Mode's [[Butchery]] by converting a corpse into edible products, bones, and skin. A corpse must be {{k|d}}ropped onto the ground to be butchered, or held in one hand. With a sharp object (such as a dagger or knapped stone or even a bolt/arrow) in your hand or on the same tile of the corpse, press {{k|x}}, {{k|b}}, and {{k|→}} to select the corpse, and then the sharp tool. The corpse will be replaced by its butchering returns.

These are the only reactions possible in an unmodified game though others can be added through modding.

== FAQ ==

===How do I get past NPCs which are in my way?===
Press {{K|s}} to sit, then move to roll between their legs. Once you're done press {{K|s}} to stand again.

===How do I find an entrance to the underworld?===
You cannot find caves by asking for quests. Instead, repeatedly ask NPCs about the surroundings, and they might tell you about the location of a cave. If this doesn't show any caves, travel to a hamlet/town/castle some distance away and try again.

===I keep getting maimed and killed! How can I fight without getting seriously hurt?===
The best offense is a good defense. If you let your enemies attack you, you're (unsurprisingly) likely to get hurt eventually.
* Try to ''avoid fighting difficult enemies until you get some armor''. Don't fight enemies at all unless you're sure you can beat them. If you're unsure, you're probably going to get hurt.
* If you have good speed, try to ''fight enemies one-by-one'' - keep moving backwards and only attack when you're within range of just one enemy.
* If you have a slashing weapon, try to ''chop parts off of your enemy'' - it makes them stop fighting for a turn, allowing you to keep attacking them without being attacked in exchange. Chopping off limbs will also weaken your enemies - taking their arms can prevent them from using weapons, taking their legs can make them slow and knock them down.
* Remember that ''it's better to let your enemy come to you, than to go to your enemy''. You have to either move or attack. If you move, you can't attack, so if you move within range to attack your enemy, you allow them to have the first strike (unless you're much faster than them). On the other hand, if you let them move within range of you, then you get to have the first strike.
* Follow the advice under [[#Combat Preferences|Combat Preferences]].

===How can I obtain armor as quickly as possible?===
* Here's the evil way. If you don't mind causing an entire civilization to be hostile to you (preventing trade, et al, with that civ):
** It's relatively easy to obtain some armor by killing a sleeping soldier in a fort and taking his stuff.
** Most villagers are pretty easy to kill and while their stuff isn't usually too valuable it is worth something. Instead of killing animals you can go around killing villagers and taking their stuff, then travel to another civilization that doesn't know (or maybe care) how evil you are in order to trade.
** Don't try this in the beginning if the next civilization over is more than a day or so away. You need to be able to flee to another country in order to escape justice and continue to quest/trade.
* Pick companions with good equipment so you can "inherit" it when they get killed. Letting them do all of the fighting for a while might help speed up this process. While this might be kind of evil, it's not as evil as the first option and will cause you much less trouble.

<div id="powerleveling"></div>

===How do I increase my skills and attributes? (powerleveling)===

Here are some techniques for raising your skills, very rapidly in some cases.

Most of these skill-raising techniques involve repeatedly entering the same keystrokes. To assist with this you can use a [[Main:Macro|Macro]] to make entering the same sequence of keystrokes over and over again much easier.

Increasing skills increases associated attributes which may in turn benefit other skills. For example, sharpening rocks using {{k|x}} will increase Knapping which will increase a number of attributes that help with combat skills. See [[Attribute#Skills_and_associated_attributes|Skills and Associated Attributes]] for a mostly complete list.

*'''Fighting and Wrestling''' - A good way to raise your Fighting and Wrestling skills and related attributes is to go find a small relatively harmless animal and wrestle with it over and over again. You can wrestle using {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}}. Continually grabbing and releasing a creature is sufficient to raise your skill, and this will not injure the animal so you can do it infinitely with the same one. Wrestling will increase Endurance as well as other stats.
*'''Shield User, Armor User, and Dodging''' - In addition to wrestling the creature, you can also sit and let it attack you to raise your defensive skills. If you have metal armor then a small animal like a gopher can't do any real damage to you even if it hits. Also change your {{K|C}}ombat preferences to "stand ground" to increase the amount of shield blocking you do, unless you want more dodging practice than shield practice.
*'''Weapon Skills and Fighting''' - Once your defensive skills are getting up there and your agility is high enough to make your speed 1300+, you might want to try fighting bogeymen to increase your weapon skill. Just make sure to fight them one at a time while running away. If you don't know what a bogeyman is yet then you are probably not ready to try this. Also, doing difficult targeted shots will gain more experience and keep the training dummy alive longer.
*'''Throwing and Archery''' - Throwing rocks with {{k|t}} will raise your Throwing and Archery skills. Being able to throw objects at creatures, while not terribly devastating (In fact, it used to be. In early 31.xx, somebody killed a bronze colossus by throwing a fluffy wambler at its head. We can only hope the wambler survived.), can still come in handy. Since throwing also raises your archery skill, you can improve your aim with bows and crossbows by throwing, but it is also possible to improve bow/crossbow skills without wasting ammunition.
*'''Marksman, Bowman, and Archery''' - Raising the bow and crossbow weapon-specific skills is best done by shooting at a wall or cliff with no floor in front of it. If bolts or arrows hit a wall that has a floor (or ground) in front of it on the same z-level the ammunition will be destroyed, however ''ammunition that falls at least one z-level after hitting a wall will remain intact.'' So, you just need to find something like a hill inside a castle, stand on the hill, then shoot at the wall on the same z-level that you're on. The arrows will hit the wall and fall one z-level to the ground, remaining intact. You can then go pick up the arrows and fire them at the wall from the hill again, ad infinitum. You can also stand next to a wall that's at least 2 z-levels high, then shoot up a z-level at the wall by hitting {{k|<}} after you hit {{k|f}}. How ever you decide to do it, the key is that the arrow needs to be able to fall at least one z-level after it hits a wall in order to remain intact. Using a macro will speed this up greatly.
*'''Ambushing and Swimming''' - When approaching a camp or other site, you may want to use {{k|S}} to sneak in and loot any loose items first. While it's very slow, you can sneak over large distances instead of using fast travel in order to increase your sneaking skill (Ambushing). It's also possible to sneak and swim at the same time, so training these things can be combined. Just make sure you '''start with at least Novice in swimming''' or you will find it practically impossible to train swimming.
*'''Observer''' - You can't really powerlevel this skill as it is slow and difficult to train, which is why you're advised to sink some points into it during character creation. One way to train this skill appears to be sleeping or walking around in the wilderness, repeatedly getting ambushed. Running away from the ambush, if you can, will probably allow you to repeat this cycle faster if you live. Detecting traps found in tombs and catacombs successfully (done automatically) will also raise Observer, though without decent starting skill to begin with, you would be torn to pieces by the traps you failed to see. Once you've found one or more traps, it is possible to grind experience by sleeping/waiting an hour, which will reset them, then re-detect them, and repeat.
*'''Spatial and Kinesthetic Sense''' - Sharpening rocks with {{k|x}} will improve your Knapping skills, but more importantly, raising these skills with raise your Spatial Sense and Kinesthetic Sense attributes which help with a number of other skills. This can be combined with throwing, using a macro, to keep your inventory from filling up.
*'''Other Stats''' - Other useful stats like Strength, Agility, and Toughness will increase significantly as the fighting and defense skills increase, so you don't need to do anything other than what you'd normally be doing to increase these.

===I managed to escape but my limbs are chopped off. Now what?===

It's just a fleshwound!

Unfortunately, there is currently no way to get them back, but as long as you have at least one leg and one arm left you can actually do pretty well. First, get a crutch from somewhere, such as a general store, and make sure it's in one of your hands. Once you do that you should be able to {{k|s}}tand back up again. You will notice that your speed is now much slower than before.

Now go find someplace reasonably safe and walk back and forth until your Crutch Walking skill gets up to Legendary or above. You will notice your speed increasing as your skill levels up until your speed is completely back to normal. As a bonus you'll probably see some stat increases as well. You can continue to dodge with a crutch just as well as before.

You can wield a sword, shield, and crutch all in one hand, so even if you are missing an arm then you're all set. If you are missing both arms but still have both legs then unfortunately you'll be limited to biting, dodging, and wrestling with legs. If you're missing both arms and one leg then your movement will be limited and you'll be limited to biting and wrestling with your one remaining leg. And if all limbs are missing then you'll be limited to rolling around on the ground biting things.

Though you might actually be able to do surprisingly well as a Legendary Biter, especially if you powerlevel your strength to the point where you can shake things around by the teeth ripping limbs off, if you lose both legs then your character is going to be severely limited just due to the poor movement rate, so at that point it's probably best to opt for retirement or a glorious death in battle.

Becoming a [[werebeast]] will enable you to regenerate limbs during the transformation to your animal form every Full Moon.
=== How do I keep my companions from running off after random wildlife? ===

In unmodified games, only human companions are typically available and humans currently seem to have the philosophy that all wildlife MUST DIE AN IMMEDIATE BRUTAL DEATH ASAP. While there's currently no way to order them to ignore wildlife and other neutral creatures, you can modify the ''raw\objects\entity_default.txt'' file and add the '''<nowiki>[AT_PEACE_WITH_WILDLIFE]</nowiki>''' to the entity definition for humans. This will cause humans to have an elf-like attitude toward wildlife, and vice versa. Humans will then avoid killing animals and animals will not run away from humans, also giving you somewhat of an advantage when hunting as a human.

Animals... you either love them and they love you, or they must die a horrible death right now.

===How do I become a vampire?===

The only way to become one is to first find one, kill it, and then "eat" its blood. More about vampires [[Vampire|here]].

=See Also=
*[[Main:Adventure Mode quick reference|Adventure Mode quick reference]]
*[[Adventure mode quick start|quick start guide]]

{{Getting Started}}
{{Category|Adventurer mode}}
{{Category|Interface}}

v0.34:Necromancer

2012-06-03T21:28:12Z

Riking: Creature tile at start. Please remove if there's already been a discussion on this that I am unaware of.

'''Necromancers''' {{Tile|Ñ|5:1}} hold the secrets of life and death. They are immortal magic users who raise legions of zombies and seclude themselves in towers.

Necromancers initially learn the arcane arts from engraved tablets received from the [[deity|gods]] - they often write numerous [[book]]s, occasionally describing the secrets therein. Necromancers may also take apprentices and teach them the secrets of life and death. Necromancers can use their zombie slaves to build a tower. This requires 50 zombies under the necromancer's control; if the necromancer does not have enough zombies, he may take over a town or a camp instead.

==Powers==

A necromancer can raise any remains which are capable of becoming an [[undead]]. These servitors join the necromancer in fights, and are the main cause of danger from these sorcerers. Necromancers also do not age, nor do they require food, drink, or sleep, enabling them to amass years of experience and become formidable opponents if they are so inclined.

==Fortress Mode==

Necromancers can attack fortresses at any stage, including before the first migration wave. Early butchering of animals and dwarves fighting undead with cutting weapons can vastly increase the danger and disruption of an undead attack as even hair and fingers can reanimate and attack dwarves and livestock. Necromancers may also besiege and ambush a fortress, raising dead in the area for a period before they are killed or leave on their own. The corpses of undead should be properly dealt with (buried or thrown into magma) to avoid raising repeatedly.

==Adventure Mode==

In Adventure Mode, Necromancers are most commonly found in towers ({{Tile|I|5:0}}). The towers generally have a few Necromancers and a lot of zombies. Becoming a Necromancer yourself merely requires you to read about the secrets of life and death, which are either found on a [[slab]] or in a [[book]]. If you decide to attack the tower, it's suggested that you become a [[night creature]] by drinking a [[vampire]]'s blood or being bitten by a [[werebeast]], as zombies and other undead will not bother you if you are a night creature. Once you learn the secrets of necromancy, all remaining undead in the tower will no longer be hostile toward you, so simply making a mad dash for the slab may also be a viable tactic.

==Tips and Tricks==
When attacking a tower without being undead, killing the Necromancers before taking on the zombies is a good idea. Your best bet is to hit them with a ranged attack. If the Necromancers turn out to be peaceful, simply lure the zombies outside (and out of visual range of the front door) one by one (or in groups) and eliminate them until you can successfully reach the slab or an appropriate book.

Another strategy, which may not always be available but can work well, is that you may sometimes find Vampires in the form of Warriors due to being given a quest to kill them. Instead of proceeding to kill them you can get these Warriors to join you instead. The Undead won't bother with them since they are Vampires and they won't bother with the Undead, but if there is a hostile Necromancer in their view they will attempt to dispatch them like any other enemy, making it very safe for you.

You can reanimate corpses as many times as you want, making them useful training tools for weapons and wrestling.

If you attack one of your own reanimated corpses, '''all''' of your reanimated companions will become neutral and will no longer follow you. This can be useful if you want to interact with civilized society - while a Necromancer can still be friendly to mortals, its minions will attack everything in sight.

[[ru:Necromacer]]

v0.34:Minecart

2012-05-17T19:14:35Z

Riking: /* As an item */

{{quality|Fine|22:04, 14 May 2012 (UTC)}}{{av}}
{{ombox|text='''Excuse the cave-ins.'''<br/>This page is under construction.|type=content}}
A '''minecart''' is a [[tool]] used mostly for [[hauling]]. It is made of [[wood]] or [[metal]] at a [[carpenter's workshop]] or a [[metalsmith's forge]]. Minecarts store five times as many items as [[wheelbarrow]]s, but have the disadvantage of requiring a dedicated track system along with micromanagement. Minecart tracks take up a lot of space, may be complicated to construct, and often will require substantial resources to complete. Since you can only engrave tracks in natural stone, minecart routes are especially expensive when built above-ground or in artificial structures.

The interface for selecting minecart usage can be accessed from the {{k|h}}auling menu.

== Track ==
Tracks are [[Engraver|carved]] with designations, with {{K|d}} {{k|T}}, or alternatively built from the [[construction]] section, with {{K|b}} {{K|C}}, in where you can not only build tracks (with {{K|T}}), but also build stops (with {{K|S}}). While engraved tracks can only be carved on natural [[stone]] floors, they are much more convenient and can be smoothed for refurbishing.

Engraved tracks have corners added automatically, while constructed tracks let you decide exactly what type of segment to build. Tracks can move up or down [[z-level]]s by means of [[ramp]]s, but not [[stair]]s.

Any tracks, when constructed, will designate the square as a low-priority [[traffic|traffic order]]. This reduces the odds of dwarves walking into a high-speed minecart, however it should be noted that pets and livestock ignore traffic orders.

As constructions or tile features, [[door]]s and other furniture can be built on tracks. A [[door]] or [[floodgate]] can be turned on or off by a [[lever]], effectively controlling the flow of automated minecarts. This may be dangerous, however.

[[Bridge]]s can also act as tracks, but only if it is lowered or not retracted. This property can enable levers to turn tracks on and off.

=== Track stop ===
Place a track stop on a track that has already been carved or constructed to set friction and dump controls. In the {{K|b}} {{K|C}} {{K|S}} menu, set the friction level of the stop and/or if a cart should automatically dump out its contents at the stop. If set to dump, select the direction to dump in. Once you proceed to build the track stop, these settings cannot be seen or changed. Note that a minecart on a dumping track stop cannot be filled by a dwarf.

Use {{K|h}} to set up routes. This allows you to place route stops on top of the track stops themselves (or just the bare track). Place the route stops and assign the vehicle (minecart) that will be used. For each route stop, you can tell the dwarves exactly what items to take, where to take them from, when to transport them, etc.

Then set up the [[stockpile]]s nearby, link them accordingly, set up the give or not give so everything moves where you want, then wait for them to be guided or pushed!

A track stop is not needed in every tile that has a route stop; in fact, track stops are ''completely'' unnecessary to all basic minecart designs, rather being useful for automated designs. Track stops are commonly built at the beginning and end of a track.

=== Roller ===
A '''roller''' is built by a [[mechanic]] with one or more [[mechanism]]s and a [[rope]] in the {{K|b}} {{K|M}} menu by selecting {{K|r}}. Rollers must be [[power]]ed, and they serve the purpose of moving a minecart without [[dwarf]]-power. Rollers may apparently be placed on ramps to help pull carts up Z levels. If minecart routes are set to ''push'', rollers may be very useful to maintain the cart's momentum. Rollers are variable-length, variable-direction, and variable-power, all traits that can be set at construction time.

At the highest speed, a roller uses two units of power per tile it is long.

Rollers can be frozen if exposed to cold [[temperature]]s. If they are in that state, they will not operate.

Because of their one-way nature, rollers are unsuitable for most two-way minecart tracks. However, a minecart set to be ''guided'' is not affected by rollers at all — this allows a one-way track to be used in both directions.

=== Removal ===
Constructed tracks can be removed like any other [[construction]] with {{k|d}} {{k|n}}. Engraved tracks can be removed by simply smoothing the track, with {{k|d}} {{k|s}}, or by building a floor and subsequently removing it.

Counterintuitive to their construction method, track stops are also considered [[building]]s and must be removed by {{k|q}} {{k|x}}. Rollers are, as one would expect, buildings and must be deconstructed in the same manner.

== Physics ==

When '''pushed''', minecarts will move along the track in a straight line, until they either run off the tracks or encounter a turn. Behavior at T-intersections has not yet been conclusively determined. This behaviour is not present if the minecarts are '''guided'''.

Some samples with behavior:

A <-> B A <-> C A <-> B
B╥ B╥ B╥
║ ║ ║
A╞══╝ A╞══╩══╡C A╞══╬╗
You can only go A->B ╚╝
Works when the cart Works
is in Guide mode.

In the second example above, if you attempt to "Push" from B to A or C, [[Fun|''the cart will go careening off of the tracks'']].

=== Skipping ===
If a minecart is moving fast enough, it can skip over [[water]] or [[magma]], making splashes as it attempts to move on them horizontally. This horizontal movement is independent of the minecart and its content's [[weight]].

=== Stacking ===
If a minecart lands on another minecart in exactly the perfect orientation and time, they may form a stack (effectively a pillar) of minecarts. This pillar, aside from the [[megaprojects|megaproject]] uses possible, is also useful for [[trap design]] with minecarts as the weaponry.

The location of the upper minecarts, above what seems to be thin air, can be confusing. These minecarts generally need to be struck with another minecart to move out, or have their support removed. The latter option can be somewhat dangerous, however.

== Hauling route ==
From the {{k|h}}auling menu, minecart routes can be set up, and [[stockpile]] links set. Navigate the list with the {{k|+}}, {{k|-}}, {{k|*}} and {{k|/}} commands.

Note that if you set up lots of routes and stops and then resize your screen, the list will scroll off-screen in the hauling menu. You can still navigate the list with the keyboard commands listed above, but cannot see the stop/route name. This will be fixed in the next release.

=== Route ===
A new route is created with the {{k|r}}oute key. An existing route can be removed (without confirmation) with the {{k|x}} key. A route can also be {{k|n}}icknamed. Before operating, the route must have at least one {{k|v}}ehicle assigned to it (this can be done from the route or from a stop; it does not seem to matter which).

=== Stop ===
The {{k|s}} key is used to create a new stop. Like routes, stops can be removed with {{k|x}} or nicknamed with {{k|n}}. Stops can also be reordered with the {{k|p}}romote key. Without a definition, however, a stop is fairly useless. The {{k|Enter}} key accesses the stop definition screen, which has two modes: advanced and basic.

=== Stop definition ===
The Stop Definition screen shows the 'orders' for a certain track stop.
There are two types of orders: departure conditions, and stockpile links.

==== Stockpile links ====
By moving the cursor and using {{k|p}}, you can create a new stockpile link for a track stop.

==== Departure condition ====
Departure conditions involve setting conditions in which the minecart will leave on the route. Each condition includes:
# A departure mode (Guide, Ride or Push)
# A departure direction (NSEW)
# A timer, before which the departure condition cannot be met
# Conditions on the amount of items in the cart
The "Advanced" screen allows you to have precise control over No. 4, as a percentage from 1 to 100.
Departure conditions are created with the {{k|n}} key. A new departure condition will read: "guide north immediately when empty of desired items". This condition can be changed with {{k|c}} in the basic screen, or {{k|f}}, {{k|F}}, {{k|m}}, and {{k|l}} specific to the advanced screen. Common to both screens are the {{k|p}}, {{k|d}}, {{k|t}}, and {{k|T}} options.

=== Troubleshooting ===

Because of the complexity of the system, all but the most careful and experienced minecart users will encounter issues. Most route issues can be diagnosed and fixed from the {{k|h}}auling menu.

The <span style="background:#000000; color:#ffff00;">! Set dir/connect track</span> message may be caused by one or more of several reasons:
* The departure direction of the stop might be invalid. Edit the stop using {{k|Enter}} and press{{k|d}} until it is pointing in a valid direction.
* The track stop might not be built on top of a track. The track stop must be deconstructed to remedy this issue.
* The desired/kept items might not be configured correctly.

If the route always shows 0% <span style="color:#00ff00;">V</span>, then the cart is probably not able to fill properly.
* The stop may not be set to take from a stockpile. Edit the Stop using {{k|Enter}} and make sure you see a message like "Take from Stockpile #1".
* The take conditions must correspond with the contents of the stockpile.
* The track stop may be set to dump. A track stop set to dump cannot be filled. You must either set the stop to a time-based departure or deconstruct the track stop and rebuild it without dumping.

== Capacity ==
Minecarts have five times the capacity of [[wheelbarrow]]s, which is an enormous amount. A single minecart can carry 2500 rolls of [[cloth]], for example, or even a hundred stone [[block]]. Unfortunately, loading 2500 [[stone|boulder]]s onto a minecart is not possible.

[[Water]] and [[magma]] can also be loaded to and dumped from minecarts, the former from passing through the fluid and latter via a track stop. Loading these onto minecarts can be difficult because the fluids' weight can slow the minecart down greatly. Curiously, a minecart filled with magma does not injure a dwarf set to ''ride'' the minecart.

The capacity in a minecart affects whether a [[pressure plate]] triggers or not, based on the pressure plate's setting.

=== Rider ===
Minecarts can be set to ride in the {{k|h}}auling routes screen. This setting encourages a [[dwarf]] to board the minecart, and will make the minecart move faster down ramps. Interestingly, a dwarf will drop its [[child|baby]], if it has one, when boarding the minecart.

Although most of the utility of minecarts is in [[fortress mode]], an [[adventure mode|adventurer]] can also ride in a minecart.

== Danger ==
Minecarts are not without [[Fun|danger]]. Although designating a track automatically sets the [[traffic]] designation to low, dwarves may still walk on them. If an unlucky dwarf fails to [[dodger|dodge]] a minecart, he or she can be injured. Most of this danger can be avoided by setting the minecart {{k|h}}auling commands to guide instead of push or ride.

Minecarts can careen off tracks. If this occurs, the [[item]]s may be scattered; this can cause even more hauling jobs than the minecart aimed to eliminate. Even worse, scattered items, especially [[weapon]]s, can injure passing [[dwarf|dwarves]] or other [[creature]]s.

=== Animals ===
Animals will ignore the automatic "Low" traffic order set by constructing minecart tracks, and will therefore tend to block minecarts. This can be bad for the animal if it fails to dodge the minecart and if the minecart is moving at a fast speed. Most of this problem is resolvable by [[pasture|pasturing]] the animals.

== As an item ==
Minecarts are also a type of [[item]], similar to [[wheelbarrow]]s but unlike [[wagon]]s, which are [[creature]]s. They are stored in a [[furniture]] [[stockpile]]. Although they hold five times the amount wheelbarrows do, they are not much larger: only four thirds as large. A no-quality minecart is identical in [[item value|value]] to a no-quality wheelbarrow of the same [[material]], however, the value may differ due to the [[item quality]].

When falling, a minecart appears to cause no damage upon collision with a creature, possibly to allow cart "stacking" across Z-levels. {{verify}}

As items, [[thief|thieves]] or even mischivous animals can steal minecarts, even when moving on a track.

v0.34:Minecart

2012-05-17T19:12:19Z

Riking: /* Hauling route */

{{quality|Fine|22:04, 14 May 2012 (UTC)}}{{av}}
{{ombox|text='''Excuse the cave-ins.'''<br/>This page is under construction.|type=content}}
A '''minecart''' is a [[tool]] used mostly for [[hauling]]. It is made of [[wood]] or [[metal]] at a [[carpenter's workshop]] or a [[metalsmith's forge]]. Minecarts store five times as many items as [[wheelbarrow]]s, but have the disadvantage of requiring a dedicated track system along with micromanagement. Minecart tracks take up a lot of space, may be complicated to construct, and often will require substantial resources to complete. Since you can only engrave tracks in natural stone, minecart routes are especially expensive when built above-ground or in artificial structures.

The interface for selecting minecart usage can be accessed from the {{k|h}}auling menu.

== Track ==
Tracks are [[Engraver|carved]] with designations, with {{K|d}} {{k|T}}, or alternatively built from the [[construction]] section, with {{K|b}} {{K|C}}, in where you can not only build tracks (with {{K|T}}), but also build stops (with {{K|S}}). While engraved tracks can only be carved on natural [[stone]] floors, they are much more convenient and can be smoothed for refurbishing.

Engraved tracks have corners added automatically, while constructed tracks let you decide exactly what type of segment to build. Tracks can move up or down [[z-level]]s by means of [[ramp]]s, but not [[stair]]s.

Any tracks, when constructed, will designate the square as a low-priority [[traffic|traffic order]]. This reduces the odds of dwarves walking into a high-speed minecart, however it should be noted that pets and livestock ignore traffic orders.

As constructions or tile features, [[door]]s and other furniture can be built on tracks. A [[door]] or [[floodgate]] can be turned on or off by a [[lever]], effectively controlling the flow of automated minecarts. This may be dangerous, however.

[[Bridge]]s can also act as tracks, but only if it is lowered or not retracted. This property can enable levers to turn tracks on and off.

=== Track stop ===
Place a track stop on a track that has already been carved or constructed to set friction and dump controls. In the {{K|b}} {{K|C}} {{K|S}} menu, set the friction level of the stop and/or if a cart should automatically dump out its contents at the stop. If set to dump, select the direction to dump in. Once you proceed to build the track stop, these settings cannot be seen or changed. Note that a minecart on a dumping track stop cannot be filled by a dwarf.

Use {{K|h}} to set up routes. This allows you to place route stops on top of the track stops themselves (or just the bare track). Place the route stops and assign the vehicle (minecart) that will be used. For each route stop, you can tell the dwarves exactly what items to take, where to take them from, when to transport them, etc.

Then set up the [[stockpile]]s nearby, link them accordingly, set up the give or not give so everything moves where you want, then wait for them to be guided or pushed!

A track stop is not needed in every tile that has a route stop; in fact, track stops are ''completely'' unnecessary to all basic minecart designs, rather being useful for automated designs. Track stops are commonly built at the beginning and end of a track.

=== Roller ===
A '''roller''' is built by a [[mechanic]] with one or more [[mechanism]]s and a [[rope]] in the {{K|b}} {{K|M}} menu by selecting {{K|r}}. Rollers must be [[power]]ed, and they serve the purpose of moving a minecart without [[dwarf]]-power. Rollers may apparently be placed on ramps to help pull carts up Z levels. If minecart routes are set to ''push'', rollers may be very useful to maintain the cart's momentum. Rollers are variable-length, variable-direction, and variable-power, all traits that can be set at construction time.

At the highest speed, a roller uses two units of power per tile it is long.

Rollers can be frozen if exposed to cold [[temperature]]s. If they are in that state, they will not operate.

Because of their one-way nature, rollers are unsuitable for most two-way minecart tracks. However, a minecart set to be ''guided'' is not affected by rollers at all — this allows a one-way track to be used in both directions.

=== Removal ===
Constructed tracks can be removed like any other [[construction]] with {{k|d}} {{k|n}}. Engraved tracks can be removed by simply smoothing the track, with {{k|d}} {{k|s}}, or by building a floor and subsequently removing it.

Counterintuitive to their construction method, track stops are also considered [[building]]s and must be removed by {{k|q}} {{k|x}}. Rollers are, as one would expect, buildings and must be deconstructed in the same manner.

== Physics ==

When '''pushed''', minecarts will move along the track in a straight line, until they either run off the tracks or encounter a turn. Behavior at T-intersections has not yet been conclusively determined. This behaviour is not present if the minecarts are '''guided'''.

Some samples with behavior:

A <-> B A <-> C A <-> B
B╥ B╥ B╥
║ ║ ║
A╞══╝ A╞══╩══╡C A╞══╬╗
You can only go A->B ╚╝
Works when the cart Works
is in Guide mode.

In the second example above, if you attempt to "Push" from B to A or C, [[Fun|''the cart will go careening off of the tracks'']].

=== Skipping ===
If a minecart is moving fast enough, it can skip over [[water]] or [[magma]], making splashes as it attempts to move on them horizontally. This horizontal movement is independent of the minecart and its content's [[weight]].

=== Stacking ===
If a minecart lands on another minecart in exactly the perfect orientation and time, they may form a stack (effectively a pillar) of minecarts. This pillar, aside from the [[megaprojects|megaproject]] uses possible, is also useful for [[trap design]] with minecarts as the weaponry.

The location of the upper minecarts, above what seems to be thin air, can be confusing. These minecarts generally need to be struck with another minecart to move out, or have their support removed. The latter option can be somewhat dangerous, however.

== Hauling route ==
From the {{k|h}}auling menu, minecart routes can be set up, and [[stockpile]] links set. Navigate the list with the {{k|+}}, {{k|-}}, {{k|*}} and {{k|/}} commands.

Note that if you set up lots of routes and stops and then resize your screen, the list will scroll off-screen in the hauling menu. You can still navigate the list with the keyboard commands listed above, but cannot see the stop/route name. This will be fixed in the next release.

=== Route ===
A new route is created with the {{k|r}}oute key. An existing route can be removed (without confirmation) with the {{k|x}} key. A route can also be {{k|n}}icknamed. Before operating, the route must have at least one {{k|v}}ehicle assigned to it (this can be done from the route or from a stop; it does not seem to matter which).

=== Stop ===
The {{k|s}} key is used to create a new stop. Like routes, stops can be removed with {{k|x}} or nicknamed with {{k|n}}. Stops can also be reordered with the {{k|p}}romote key. Without a definition, however, a stop is fairly useless. The {{k|Enter}} key accesses the stop definition screen, which has two modes: advanced and basic.

=== Stop definition ===
The Stop Definition screen shows the 'orders' for a certain track stop.
There are two types of orders: departure conditions, and stockpile links.

==== Stockpile links ====
By moving the cursor and using {{k|p}}, you can create a new stockpile link for a track stop.

==== Departure condition ====
Departure conditions involve setting conditions in which the minecart will leave on the route. Each condition includes:
# A departure mode (Guide, Ride or Push)
# A departure direction (NSEW)
# A timer, before which the departure condition cannot be met
# Conditions on the amount of items in the cart
The "Advanced" screen allows you to have precise control over No. 4, as a percentage from 1 to 100.
Departure conditions are created with the {{k|n}} key. A new departure condition will read: "guide north immediately when empty of desired items". This condition can be changed with {{k|c}} in the basic screen, or {{k|f}}, {{k|F}}, {{k|m}}, and {{k|l}} specific to the advanced screen. Common to both screens are the {{k|p}}, {{k|d}}, {{k|t}}, and {{k|T}} options.

=== Troubleshooting ===

Because of the complexity of the system, all but the most careful and experienced minecart users will encounter issues. Most route issues can be diagnosed and fixed from the {{k|h}}auling menu.

The <span style="background:#000000; color:#ffff00;">! Set dir/connect track</span> message may be caused by one or more of several reasons:
* The departure direction of the stop might be invalid. Edit the stop using {{k|Enter}} and press{{k|d}} until it is pointing in a valid direction.
* The track stop might not be built on top of a track. The track stop must be deconstructed to remedy this issue.
* The desired/kept items might not be configured correctly.

If the route always shows 0% <span style="color:#00ff00;">V</span>, then the cart is probably not able to fill properly.
* The stop may not be set to take from a stockpile. Edit the Stop using {{k|Enter}} and make sure you see a message like "Take from Stockpile #1".
* The take conditions must correspond with the contents of the stockpile.
* The track stop may be set to dump. A track stop set to dump cannot be filled. You must either set the stop to a time-based departure or deconstruct the track stop and rebuild it without dumping.

== Capacity ==
Minecarts have five times the capacity of [[wheelbarrow]]s, which is an enormous amount. A single minecart can carry 2500 rolls of [[cloth]], for example, or even a hundred stone [[block]]. Unfortunately, loading 2500 [[stone|boulder]]s onto a minecart is not possible.

[[Water]] and [[magma]] can also be loaded to and dumped from minecarts, the former from passing through the fluid and latter via a track stop. Loading these onto minecarts can be difficult because the fluids' weight can slow the minecart down greatly. Curiously, a minecart filled with magma does not injure a dwarf set to ''ride'' the minecart.

The capacity in a minecart affects whether a [[pressure plate]] triggers or not, based on the pressure plate's setting.

=== Rider ===
Minecarts can be set to ride in the {{k|h}}auling routes screen. This setting encourages a [[dwarf]] to board the minecart, and will make the minecart move faster down ramps. Interestingly, a dwarf will drop its [[child|baby]], if it has one, when boarding the minecart.

Although most of the utility of minecarts is in [[fortress mode]], an [[adventure mode|adventurer]] can also ride in a minecart.

== Danger ==
Minecarts are not without [[Fun|danger]]. Although designating a track automatically sets the [[traffic]] designation to low, dwarves may still walk on them. If an unlucky dwarf fails to [[dodger|dodge]] a minecart, he or she can be injured. Most of this danger can be avoided by setting the minecart {{k|h}}auling commands to guide instead of push or ride.

Minecarts can careen off tracks. If this occurs, the [[item]]s may be scattered; this can cause even more hauling jobs than the minecart aimed to eliminate. Even worse, scattered items, especially [[weapon]]s, can injure passing [[dwarf|dwarves]] or other [[creature]]s.

=== Animals ===
Animals will ignore the automatic "Low" traffic order set by constructing minecart tracks, and will therefore tend to block minecarts. This can be bad for the animal if it fails to dodge the minecart and if the minecart is moving at a fast speed. Most of this problem is resolvable by [[pasture|pasturing]] the animals.

== As an item ==
Minecarts are also a type of [[item]], similar to [[wheelbarrow]]s but unlike [[wagon]]s, which are [[creature]]s. They are stored in a [[furniture]] [[stockpile]]. Although they hold five times the amount wheelbarrows do, they are not much larger: only four thirds as large. A no-quality minecart is identical in [[item value|value]] to a no-quality wheelbarrow of the same [[material]], however, the value may differ due to the [[item quality]].

As items, [[thief|thieves]] or even mischivous animals can steal minecarts, even when moving on a track.

v0.34:Minecart

2012-05-17T19:08:09Z

Riking: /* Stop definition */

{{quality|Fine|22:04, 14 May 2012 (UTC)}}{{av}}
{{ombox|text='''Excuse the cave-ins.'''<br/>This page is under construction.|type=content}}
A '''minecart''' is a [[tool]] used mostly for [[hauling]]. It is made of [[wood]] or [[metal]] at a [[carpenter's workshop]] or a [[metalsmith's forge]]. Minecarts store five times as many items as [[wheelbarrow]]s, but have the disadvantage of requiring a dedicated track system along with micromanagement. Minecart tracks take up a lot of space, may be complicated to construct, and often will require substantial resources to complete. Since you can only engrave tracks in natural stone, minecart routes are especially expensive when built above-ground or in artificial structures.

The interface for selecting minecart usage can be accessed from the {{k|h}}auling menu.

== Track ==
Tracks are [[Engraver|carved]] with designations, with {{K|d}} {{k|T}}, or alternatively built from the [[construction]] section, with {{K|b}} {{K|C}}, in where you can not only build tracks (with {{K|T}}), but also build stops (with {{K|S}}). While engraved tracks can only be carved on natural [[stone]] floors, they are much more convenient and can be smoothed for refurbishing.

Engraved tracks have corners added automatically, while constructed tracks let you decide exactly what type of segment to build. Tracks can move up or down [[z-level]]s by means of [[ramp]]s, but not [[stair]]s.

Any tracks, when constructed, will designate the square as a low-priority [[traffic|traffic order]]. This reduces the odds of dwarves walking into a high-speed minecart, however it should be noted that pets and livestock ignore traffic orders.

As constructions or tile features, [[door]]s and other furniture can be built on tracks. A [[door]] or [[floodgate]] can be turned on or off by a [[lever]], effectively controlling the flow of automated minecarts. This may be dangerous, however.

[[Bridge]]s can also act as tracks, but only if it is lowered or not retracted. This property can enable levers to turn tracks on and off.

=== Track stop ===
Place a track stop on a track that has already been carved or constructed to set friction and dump controls. In the {{K|b}} {{K|C}} {{K|S}} menu, set the friction level of the stop and/or if a cart should automatically dump out its contents at the stop. If set to dump, select the direction to dump in. Once you proceed to build the track stop, these settings cannot be seen or changed. Note that a minecart on a dumping track stop cannot be filled by a dwarf.

Use {{K|h}} to set up routes. This allows you to place route stops on top of the track stops themselves (or just the bare track). Place the route stops and assign the vehicle (minecart) that will be used. For each route stop, you can tell the dwarves exactly what items to take, where to take them from, when to transport them, etc.

Then set up the [[stockpile]]s nearby, link them accordingly, set up the give or not give so everything moves where you want, then wait for them to be guided or pushed!

A track stop is not needed in every tile that has a route stop; in fact, track stops are ''completely'' unnecessary to all basic minecart designs, rather being useful for automated designs. Track stops are commonly built at the beginning and end of a track.

=== Roller ===
A '''roller''' is built by a [[mechanic]] with one or more [[mechanism]]s and a [[rope]] in the {{K|b}} {{K|M}} menu by selecting {{K|r}}. Rollers must be [[power]]ed, and they serve the purpose of moving a minecart without [[dwarf]]-power. Rollers may apparently be placed on ramps to help pull carts up Z levels. If minecart routes are set to ''push'', rollers may be very useful to maintain the cart's momentum. Rollers are variable-length, variable-direction, and variable-power, all traits that can be set at construction time.

At the highest speed, a roller uses two units of power per tile it is long.

Rollers can be frozen if exposed to cold [[temperature]]s. If they are in that state, they will not operate.

Because of their one-way nature, rollers are unsuitable for most two-way minecart tracks. However, a minecart set to be ''guided'' is not affected by rollers at all — this allows a one-way track to be used in both directions.

=== Removal ===
Constructed tracks can be removed like any other [[construction]] with {{k|d}} {{k|n}}. Engraved tracks can be removed by simply smoothing the track, with {{k|d}} {{k|s}}, or by building a floor and subsequently removing it.

Counterintuitive to their construction method, track stops are also considered [[building]]s and must be removed by {{k|q}} {{k|x}}. Rollers are, as one would expect, buildings and must be deconstructed in the same manner.

== Physics ==

When '''pushed''', minecarts will move along the track in a straight line, until they either run off the tracks or encounter a turn. Behavior at T-intersections has not yet been conclusively determined. This behaviour is not present if the minecarts are '''guided'''.

Some samples with behavior:

A <-> B A <-> C A <-> B
B╥ B╥ B╥
║ ║ ║
A╞══╝ A╞══╩══╡C A╞══╬╗
You can only go A->B ╚╝
Works when the cart Works
is in Guide mode.

In the second example above, if you attempt to "Push" from B to A or C, [[Fun|''the cart will go careening off of the tracks'']].

=== Skipping ===
If a minecart is moving fast enough, it can skip over [[water]] or [[magma]], making splashes as it attempts to move on them horizontally. This horizontal movement is independent of the minecart and its content's [[weight]].

=== Stacking ===
If a minecart lands on another minecart in exactly the perfect orientation and time, they may form a stack (effectively a pillar) of minecarts. This pillar, aside from the [[megaprojects|megaproject]] uses possible, is also useful for [[trap design]] with minecarts as the weaponry.

The location of the upper minecarts, above what seems to be thin air, can be confusing. These minecarts generally need to be struck with another minecart to move out, or have their support removed. The latter option can be somewhat dangerous, however.

== Hauling route ==
From the {{k|h}}auling menu, minecart routes can be set up, and [[stockpile]] links set. Navigate the list with the {{k|+}}, {{k|-}}, {{k|*}} and {{k|/}} commands.

Note that if you set up lots of routes and stops and then resize your screen, the list will scroll off-screen in the hauling menu. You can still navigate the list with the keyboard commands listed above, but cannot see the stop/route name. This will be fixed in the next release.

=== Route ===
A new route is created with the {{k|r}}oute key. An existing route can be removed (without confirmation) with the {{k|x}} key. A route can also be {{k|n}}icknamed. Before operating, the route must have at least one {{k|v}}ehicle assigned to it (this can be done from the route or from a stop; it does not seem to matter which).

=== Stop ===
The {{k|s}} key is used to create a new stop. Like routes, stops can be removed with {{k|x}} or nicknamed with {{k|n}}. Stops can also be reordered with the {{k|p}}romote key. Without a definition, however, a stop is fairly useless. The {{k|Enter}} key accesses the stop definition screen, which has two modes: advanced and basic.

=== Stop definition ===
The Stop Definition screen shows the 'orders' for a certain track stop.
There are two types of orders: departure conditions, and stockpile links.

==== Departure conditions ====
see [[#departure condition|departure condition]]) and stockpile links.

From the definition screen, the items accepted at the stop can be specified with the {{k|Enter}} key.

==== Stockpile links ====
By moving the cursor and using {{k|p}}, you can create a new stockpile link for a track stop.

=== Departure condition ===
Departure conditions involve setting conditions in which the minecart will leave on the route. They may include the cart being full (storing as many items as it can), being a certain amount full and being idle for a while, or simply being idle for a long time. From both the basic and advanced stop definition screens, departure conditions are created with the {{k|n}} key. A new departure condition will read: "guide north immediately when empty of desired items". This condition can be changed with {{k|c}} in the basic screen, or {{k|f}}, {{k|F}}, {{k|m}}, and {{k|l}} specific to the advanced screen. Common to both screens are the {{k|p}}, {{k|d}}, {{k|t}}, and {{k|T}} options.

=== Troubleshooting ===

Because of the complexity of the system, all but the most careful and experienced minecart users will encounter issues. Most route issues can be diagnosed and fixed from the {{k|h}}auling menu.

The <span style="background:#000000; color:#ffff00;">! Set dir/connect track</span> message may be caused by one or more of several reasons:
* The departure direction of the stop might be invalid. Edit the stop using {{k|Enter}} and press{{k|d}} until it is pointing in a valid direction.
* The track stop might not be built on top of a track. The track stop must be deconstructed to remedy this issue.
* The desired/kept items might not be configured correctly.

If the route always shows 0% <span style="color:#00ff00;">V</span>, then the cart is probably not able to fill properly.
* The stop may not be set to take from a stockpile. Edit the Stop using {{k|Enter}} and make sure you see a message like "Take from Stockpile #1".
* The take conditions must correspond with the contents of the stockpile.
* The track stop may be set to dump. A track stop set to dump cannot be filled. You must either set the stop to a time-based departure or deconstruct the track stop and rebuild it without dumping.

== Capacity ==
Minecarts have five times the capacity of [[wheelbarrow]]s, which is an enormous amount. A single minecart can carry 2500 rolls of [[cloth]], for example, or even a hundred stone [[block]]. Unfortunately, loading 2500 [[stone|boulder]]s onto a minecart is not possible.

[[Water]] and [[magma]] can also be loaded to and dumped from minecarts, the former from passing through the fluid and latter via a track stop. Loading these onto minecarts can be difficult because the fluids' weight can slow the minecart down greatly. Curiously, a minecart filled with magma does not injure a dwarf set to ''ride'' the minecart.

The capacity in a minecart affects whether a [[pressure plate]] triggers or not, based on the pressure plate's setting.

=== Rider ===
Minecarts can be set to ride in the {{k|h}}auling routes screen. This setting encourages a [[dwarf]] to board the minecart, and will make the minecart move faster down ramps. Interestingly, a dwarf will drop its [[child|baby]], if it has one, when boarding the minecart.

Although most of the utility of minecarts is in [[fortress mode]], an [[adventure mode|adventurer]] can also ride in a minecart.

== Danger ==
Minecarts are not without [[Fun|danger]]. Although designating a track automatically sets the [[traffic]] designation to low, dwarves may still walk on them. If an unlucky dwarf fails to [[dodger|dodge]] a minecart, he or she can be injured. Most of this danger can be avoided by setting the minecart {{k|h}}auling commands to guide instead of push or ride.

Minecarts can careen off tracks. If this occurs, the [[item]]s may be scattered; this can cause even more hauling jobs than the minecart aimed to eliminate. Even worse, scattered items, especially [[weapon]]s, can injure passing [[dwarf|dwarves]] or other [[creature]]s.

=== Animals ===
Animals will ignore the automatic "Low" traffic order set by constructing minecart tracks, and will therefore tend to block minecarts. This can be bad for the animal if it fails to dodge the minecart and if the minecart is moving at a fast speed. Most of this problem is resolvable by [[pasture|pasturing]] the animals.

== As an item ==
Minecarts are also a type of [[item]], similar to [[wheelbarrow]]s but unlike [[wagon]]s, which are [[creature]]s. They are stored in a [[furniture]] [[stockpile]]. Although they hold five times the amount wheelbarrows do, they are not much larger: only four thirds as large. A no-quality minecart is identical in [[item value|value]] to a no-quality wheelbarrow of the same [[material]], however, the value may differ due to the [[item quality]].

As items, [[thief|thieves]] or even mischivous animals can steal minecarts, even when moving on a track.

v0.34:Minecart

2012-05-16T00:26:52Z

Riking: /* Track Physics */

v0.34:Minecart

2012-05-16T00:20:13Z

Riking:

v0.34:Minecart

2012-05-16T00:15:17Z

Riking:

{{quality|Fine|22:04, 14 May 2012 (UTC)}}{{av}}
{{ombox|text='''Excuse the cave-ins.'''<br/>This page is under construction.|style="float:center;"}}
A '''minecart''' is a [[tool]] used mostly for [[hauling]]. It is made of [[wood]] or [[metal]] at a [[carpenter's workshop]] or a [[metalsmith's forge]]. Minecarts store five times as many items as [[wheelbarrow]]s, but have the disadvantage of requiring a dedicated track system along with micromanagement. Minecart tracks take up a lot of space, may be complicated to construct, and often will require substantial resources to fully construct, especially when above-ground.

The interface for selecting minecart usage can be accessed from the {{k|h}}auling menu.

== Track ==
Tracks are [[Engraver|carved]] with designations, with {{k|d}} {{k|T}}, or alternatively built from the [[construction]] section, with {{k|b}} {{k|C}}, in where you can not only build tracks (with {{k|T}}), but also build stops (with {{k|S}}). While engraved tracks can only be carved on natural [[stone]] floors, they are much more convenient and can be smoothed for refurbishing.

Engraved tracks have corners added automatically, while constructed tracks let you decide exactly what type of segment to build. Tracks can move up or down [[z-level]]s by means of [[ramp]]s, but not [[stair]]s.

=== Track stop ===
Place a track stop on a track, and set the friction and how it stops things. In the {{k|b}} {{k|C}} {{k|S}} menu, setup if and where a stop dumps things before the stop is built.

Use {{k|h}} to set up routes, this allows you to mark the stops and put the vehicle that'll be used, then for each stop explain exactly when to take things, where to take them from, etc.

Then set up the [[stockpile]]s nearby, link them accordingly, set up the give or not give so everything moves where you want, then wait for them to be pushed!

=== Track Physics ===

'''When pushed,''' minecarts will move along the track in a straight line, until they either run off the tracks or encounter a turn. Behavior at T-intersections has not yet been conclusively determined.

Some samples with behavior:
<pre>
A <-> B A <-> C A <-> B
B╥ B╥ B╥
║ ║ ║
A╞══╝ A╞══╩══╡C A╞══╬╗
You can only go A->B ╚╝
Works when the cart Works
is in Guide mode
</pre>
=== Roller ===
A '''roller''' is built with a [[mechanism]] in the {{k|b}} {{k|M}} menu by selecting {{k|r}}. Rollers must be [[power]]ed, and they serve the purpose of moving a minecart without [[dwarf]]-power.

== Hauling route ==
From the {{k|h}}auling menu, minecart routes can be set up, and [[stockpile]] links set.

== Danger ==
Minecarts are not without [[Fun|danger]]. Although designating a track automatically sets the [[traffic]] designation to low, dwarves may still walk on them. If an unlucky dwarf fails to dodge a minecart, he or she can be injured. Most of this danger can be avoided by setting the minecart {{k|h}}auling commands to guide instead of push or ride.

v0.34:Minecart

2012-05-14T20:07:52Z

Riking: Created page with "{{ombox|text='''Excuse the cave-ins'''<br/>This page is under construction.}} Carve tracks with designations, T, or build from the construction section, where you can also build ..."

{{ombox|text='''Excuse the cave-ins'''<br/>This page is under construction.}}
Carve tracks with designations, T, or build from the construction section, where you can also build stops.
When designating track it puts it in a straight line and automatically makes corners. When building manually you can decide exactly what segmet to build.
Place a track stop on a track, and set the friction and how it stops things.
Use h to set up routes, this allows you to mark the stops and put the vehicle that'll be used, then for each stop explain exactly when to take things, where to take them from, whether to dump, etc.
Then set up the stockpiles nearby, link the accordingly, set up the give/not give so everything moves where you want, then wait forthem to be pushed!

Template:Getting Started

2011-12-21T06:05:26Z

Riking: Whoopsies!

<center>
{| class="infobox" style="background-color: #fdc; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 90%; margin: 1em 0em 0em; padding: 2px; text-align: center; width: 60%"
! style="border: 1px solid #aaa; font-weight:bold; background-color: #d66; padding-left: 1em; padding-right: 1em;" | Getting Started
|-
| [[About]] - [[Installation]] - [[Tutorials]]
|-
| [[Quickstart guide|Fortress Mode Quickstart Guide]] - [[Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide]]
|-
| [[Dwarf fortress mode|Fortress Mode Reference]] - [[Adventurer mode|Adventurer Mode Reference]] <sup>([[Main:Adventure Mode Quick Reference|Quick Reference]])</sup>

|-
| colspan="2" | [[Main:Troubleshooting|How do I get more help?]]
|}
</center><includeonly>{{Category|Getting started}}</includeonly><noinclude>[[Category:Templates]]</noinclude>

Template:Getting Started

2011-12-21T06:04:11Z

Riking: fixed link to Main namespace; added adventure mode quick reference

<center>
{| class="infobox" style="background-color: #fdc; border: 1px solid #aaa; font-size: 90%; margin: 1em 0em 0em; padding: 2px; text-align: center; width: 60%"
! style="border: 1px solid #aaa; font-weight:bold; background-color: #d66; padding-left: 1em; padding-right: 1em;" | Getting Started
|-
| [[About]] - [[Installation]] - [[Tutorials]]
|-
| [[Quickstart guide|Fortress Mode Quickstart Guide]] - [[Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide]]
|-
| [[Dwarf fortress mode|Fortress Mode Reference]] - [[Adventurer mode|Adventurer Mode Reference]] <sup>([[Adventure Mode Quick Reference|Quick Reference]])</sup>

|-
| colspan="2" | [[Main:Troubleshooting|How do I get more help?]]
|}
</center><includeonly>{{Category|Getting started}}</includeonly><noinclude>[[Category:Templates]]</noinclude>

v0.31:Adventurer mode

2011-12-20T02:08:29Z

Riking: /* Soul */ missed one

{{quality|Exceptional|15:19, 17 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

:''This is a detailed reference guide for Adventurer Mode. For a tutorial see the [[Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide]].
:''See [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] to quickly look up key commands.

In '''adventurer mode''' (also called "adventure mode") you create a single adventurer ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) who starts out somewhere in one of your generated worlds. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[cave]]s, shrines, lairs, abandoned towers, and other [[Site|towns and settlements]]. You can even visit your abandoned [[fortress]]es and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creature]]s that sealed their fate.

Unlike [[fortress mode]], adventurer mode is a sort of advanced [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandbox_game open world] version of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogue_%28computer_game%29 rogue] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nethack nethack] taking place in the same procedurally generated worlds used for fortress mode, but you control a single character in a turn-based manner rather than manage a group of creatures acting in real time.

=World Selection=

You can play Adventurer mode in any world that has a civilization with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token (which are elf, dwarf, and human in unmodded raws) but as of the current version 0.31.25 only human civilizations have towns, NPC fortresses, or shops. As a result you need at least one human civilization if you want quests or anything but basic wilderness survival. Alternately, you can alter the other races to also use human towns -- see the talk page under "Dwarven Fortresses."

If you have previously built a fort in the world that you select, your adventurer will be able to go visit it. However, the fort must be abandoned because you will not be able to start an adventure mode game in the same world with an active fortress mode game. Note, though, that you can always save your fortress mode game, duplicate the save folder (copy ''regionX'' to ''regionX-copy'' or something), abandon the fortress in the copy of the world, then start adventure mode in the new clone world.

=Character Creation=

==Race and Civilization==

Any race with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token is playable in adventure mode. In an unmodded game this means [[Dwarves]], [[Elves]], and [[Human|Humans]]. All three races can complete the same quests.

*'''Civilized Humans''' begin with bronze or iron weapons and can use any of the items sold by shopkeepers (who, for the time being, are only found in human towns and only sell human-sized clothing/armor). They also start with the widest variety of weapon skills.

*'''Human Outsiders''' can only start with Spear User and Knife User as weapon skills, and they cannot start with Armor User or Shield User. They also start out literally naked with no clothing, but can wear any human-sized armor that they trade for, steal, or loot. "Outsiders" of other races can be played if you add the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|INDIV_CONTROLLABLE]] token to the race's entity definition.

*'''Dwarves''' have the advantage of being able to go into a [[Martial trance|martial trance]] when fighting multiple foes at once. They are the only race which can start with steel weapons, but they wear "small" sized clothing (like goblins and elves) which means that they're unable to wear human clothing and armor found in shops. They can start with almost all of the same weapon skills as civilized humans. Most human-sized weapons (such as longswords) must be wielded two-handed by dwarves, due to their size.

*'''Elves''' start with very weak wooden weapons and have a more limited list of weapon skills during character creation. They have the advantage that they have higher natural speed. Like dwarves they wear small sized clothing so will have the same problem finding suitable armor in shops.

If no civilization for the given race exists in a world, you won't be able to play as that race except perhaps as a human outsider.{{Verify}}

== Status ==

Determines the number of starting skill and attribute points, which does not change based on race:
*'''Peasant:''' 15 attribute, 35 skill
*'''Hero:''' 35 attribute, 95 skill
*'''Demigod:''' 105 attribute, 161 skill
The number of skill points is less significant than the number of attribute points because the time it takes to go from Peasant to Demigod in skill terms is much less than what it would take to go from Peasant to Demigod in attribute terms.

== Starting Attributes ==

[[Attribute|Attributes]] are divided into Body and Soul attributes. This section provides some guidance for allocating attributes as it relates to adventurer mode.

=== Body ===

*'''Strength''' - Alters the damage done in melee, increases muscle mass (thicker muscle layer also resists damage more), and increases how much a creature can carry. Increasing strength, at least in adventurers, increases movement speed (albeit not as much as agility) due to better carrying capacity.
*'''Agility''' - This attribute is directly related to a character's Speed and is also used in combat skills.
*'''Toughness''' - Reduces physical damage. Also relates to defensive combat skills.
*'''Endurance''' - Reduces the rate at which the adventurer becomes exhausted. Used in Wrestling.
*'''Recuperation''' - Increases the rate of wound healing. Not as important as Toughness. Recuperation isn't that useful in adventurer mode since you usually have as much time to rest as you need assuming you can escape a situation alive.
*'''Disease Resistance''' - Reduces the risk of disease. It isn't clear how useful this currently is in adventurer mode.

Strength, Agility, and Toughness are the Body attributes that most impact combat skills, and Endurance to a lesser extent.

=== Soul ===

Some of these are useful for adventure-mode-applicable skills, but some are totally useless.

*'''Analytical Ability''' - Useful for certain crafting skills, the only one currently being Knapping.
*'''Focus''' - Affects Archer, Ambusher, Observer.
*'''Willpower''' - Fighter, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, and helps resist ''pain effects'' such as those caused by chipped bones.
*'''''Creativity''''' - Currently completely useless in adventure mode. Normally it impacts crafting skills.
*'''Intuition''' - Only helps with Observer.
*'''''Patience''''' - Currently useless.
*'''''Memory''''' - Appears to be useless.
*'''''Linguistic Ability''''' - Currently useless because adventurers don't have social skills.
*'''Spatial Sense''' - Important. Affects combat skills, Ambusher, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, Observer, Knapping.
*'''''Musicality''''' - Completely useless as of yet.
*'''Kinesthetic Sense''' - Important. Combat skills, Crutch Walker, Swimming, Knapping,
*'''Empathy''' - Might increase chance of persuading people to Join you.{{Verify}}
*'''Social Awareness''' - Increases the number of followers you can have at a given "fame" level. Normally you start with a limit of two. Increasing this stat by one level raises that to three.

=== Attribute Advancement Cap ===

Adventure mode attributes are capped at double the starting value or the starting value plus the racial average, whichever is greater. Humans, for example, have a racial average strength of 1,000. If a human adventurer starts with an ''above average'' strength of 1,100, then his strength will ultimately be capped at 2,200. Had this human started with a ''below average'' strength of 900, then his strength would be capped at 1,900 instead. For the purpose of maximizing final attributes, this makes it important to start with as many attributes in the ''superior'' range as possible (more attributes per point allocated), while avoiding taking any penalties to even remotely important attributes (big attribute deductions per point recovered). As a consequence of the attribute cap, demi-god adventurers will always have a much higher potential for advancement than mere peasants and heroes.

== Starting Skills ==

Not all races have the same sets of skills available at character creation time, but keep in mind that all starting [[skill]]s, as well as ones not available at character creation, can be improved through use in game.

This section will specifically address starting skills as they relate to adventure mode. For a full description of combat skills see [[Combat skill]]. Other skills that you can't start with, but which can be increased in game (such as Butchery) are described elsewhere.

=== Weapon ===

The weapon you start out with will be based on which of these, plus the unarmed combat skills, is the highest. In other words, even if Swordsman is your highest weapon skill, you won't start with a sword if your Wrestler or Striker skills are better. Usually the best choice anyway is to specialize in just one melee weapon skill.

Because these tend to take a bit longer to increase in game, it makes sense to put some points into one at the beginning.

Not all races/civilizations can start with all of these skills. (For example, Dwarves can't start with Bowman or Lasher).

*'''Axeman''' - allows characters to use axes, great axes, and halberds more effectively.
*'''Bowman''' - skill allows characters to use bows more effectively.
*'''Crossbowman''' - allows characters to use crossbows more effectively. The dwarven version is called '''Marksdwarf'''.
*'''Hammerman''' - allows characters to use crossbows in melee, mauls, and war hammers more effectively.
*'''Knife User''' - allows characters to use large daggers and knives more effectively.
*'''Lasher''' - allows characters to use whips and scourges more effectively.
*'''Maceman''' - allows characters to use flails, maces, and morningstars more effectively.
*'''Pikeman''' - allows characters to use pikes more effectively.
*'''Spearman''' - allows characters to use spears more effectively.
*'''Swordsman''' - allows characters to use blowguns and bows in melee, long swords, scimitars, short swords, and two-handed swords more effectively.

=== General Combat ===

These two skills can be raised rather quickly in game and so you probably want to skip spending any points on them at the start.

*'''Fighter''' - This increases with, and contributes to, melee combat whether armed or unarmed. It appears that the purpose of it is to allow melee experience to contribute to melee combat in general regardless of weapon. Repeatedly wrestling (grabbing and releasing) even a small creature will raise this skill.
*'''Archer''' - This increases with, and contributes to, ranged combat including throwing. It works similarly to Fighter except for ranged attacks. It can be easily raised by repeatedly throwing rocks, making it advisable for archers to practice their marksmanship with rock throwing before using up the more finite and expensive forms of ammunition. Shooting at a wall with adjacent upward ramp one level below and picking back projectiles is also a good idea (such places often happen to be in castles). See the FAQ section on [[#powerleveling|powerleveling]] for information on raising bowman/marksman skills.

=== Defensive ===

These skills are critical for survival. Starting out with good ability in one (especially Shield User or Armor User) if not all is strongly advised.

*'''Shield User''' - Ability to block attacks with shields. Starting with skill in this means that the adventurer will start with a shield.
*'''Armor User''' - Related to how well an adventurer moves in armor, and increases whenever an adventurer wearing armor is attacked. A higher level of this skill reduces the encumbrance penalties of armor, allowing up to normal speed movement when wearing full steel plate. Unfortunately, starting with this skill does not provide any starting armor.
*'''Dodger''' - Ability to dodge out of the way of attacks.

=== Unarmed Combat and Improvised Weapons ===

While some of them come in handy at times, they can generally be raised fairly easily in game, especially Wrestler and Thrower.

*'''Wrestler''' - Ability to grapple, restrain, take-down, throw opponents, etc. See [[#Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks]] for details. Can be raised very easily in game.
*'''Striker''' - Punching ability.
*'''Kicker''' - Kicking ability.
*'''Biter''' - Biting ability.
*'''Thrower''' - Throwing any miscellaneous object including rocks, knives, axes, swords, heads, etc.
*'''Misc. Object User''' - Ability to beat things to death with their own severed body parts, basically. Also somewhat more commonly used for shield bashing.

=== Movement and Awareness ===

*'''[[Observer]]''' - Helps one to notice things like ambushes and enemies who are "sneaking" (stealth movement). Detection range increases with skill. Hard to train. Adding some points here is advisable.
*'''[[Swimmer]]''' - Allows movement through water without drowning. A Novice swimmer can swim but will revert to being unable to swim if stunned, which happens when falling even 1 z-level into the water. An Adequate swimmer can swim normally (not drown) while stunned. For this reason, ''starting out as an Adequate swimmer is advisable.'' If you don't, at least start as Novice and go get some swimming practice right away.
*'''[[Ambusher]]''' - The skill of {{K|S}}neaking around unobserved. This can be raised fairly easily by sneaking around while traveling from place to place when speed is not important. At lower skill levels, speed is greatly reduced, but the penalty gradually reduces until negated at Legendary skill and it's possible to sneak at full movement rate. Chance of detection is also reduced at higher skill levels; a more skilled ambusher can remain in close combat for longer without being detected.

=== Crafting ===

These allow your character to create things. There is only one skill currently available in an unmodified game.

*'''Knapper''' - The fine art of sharpening rocks by banging them together in a clever manner. The resulting rocks become sharp rocks which do more damage when thrown and can be used for things requiring a sharp edge like butchering. Easy to raise in game and doing so helps with Kinesthetic and Spatial Sense.

There is also Butchering, but you can't allocate points to that at creation time.

= Gameplay =

== Common UI Concepts ==
{{KeyConventions|3}}

== Moving Around ==

=== Local Movement ===
[[File:adventure-local-map.png|thumb|400px|The local travel screen. The lower left shows a small overview map of the area. The upper right shows a small area 1 z-level above the adventurer in the middle. The adventurer is standing in front of the door to a house full of humans, and visibility behind the house is obscured. In the upper left is a small box showing the direction to various sites (which may be quite far away).]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|Alt}} and a direction key
| Move carefully / Deliberately enter dangerous terrain
|-
| {{k|<}} or {{k|Shift}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Ascend
|-
| {{k|>}} or {{k|Ctrl}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Descend
|-
| {{k|.}}
| Wait for a step
|-
| {{k|s}}
| Stand or lie down
|-
| {{k|S}}
| Sneak
|}

Unless your character is an outsider, you will start out in a human town or hamlet; in the standard tileset the @ sign is your character. In the lower left-hand corner of the screen is a mini-map, with the @ sign showing your relative location to other things in the town/hamlet. The ▐ symbols are small collections of buildings.

The directional keys allow movement. Diagonal movement is particularly important especially when chasing or running away from things.

Use {{k|Alt}}+direction to enter water, jump off of cliffs, or otherwise attempt to enter anything that you can't enter using normal movement commands. Note that when entering water it's best to enter the actual water and not the open space over the water as, in the later case, you will fall in causing you to become stunned which may lead to drowning.

Hitting {{k|.}} allows you to stay in one place and wait for other things to move.

Use {{k|s}} to sit/lay down. Moving while laying down (crawling) will let you move past NPCs which are standing in your way. Also note that you will frequently get knocked to the ground in combat, and if you don't hit {{k|s}} to stand back up then you will crawl slowly along the ground, giving your opponent a lot of opportunity to attack you.

{{k|S}}neak will allow you to move around invisibly, limited by your Ambusher skill and the Observer skill of nearby creatures. The closer you get to a creature, the more likely you are to be detected. Your movement rate will also be very slow at low Ambusher skill levels while sneaking. If you are within observation range of anything then you will be unable to go into stealth mode. Hiding somewhere you can't be seen (such as the inside edge of a murky pool, if you can swim) will allow you to go into stealth mode when creatures are around.

=== Fast Travel ===
[[Image:adventurer-fast-travel.png|thumb|400px|Fast Travel screen. A fort is on the west side, and a town is on the east side of the map. The regional map is displayed on the far right.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|T}}
| Fast Travel
|-
| {{k|>}}
| Exit fast travel mode
|}

Entering Fast Travel mode will allow you to move large distances in a single keypress. Of course, the same amount of time will go by and you can also be interrupted (ambushed) while moving in fast travel mode.

See the [[Map legend]] for information on what the map symbols mean. Settlements are indicated by {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} tiles and you can find houses by exiting fast travel while standing on one of these tiles. Yellow tiles of the same shape {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} indicate the presence of shops rather than houses.

Pressing {{K|m}} will put a fully zoomed-out map on the right side of the screen, with your current location marked by a blinking "X". When seeking out a quest, move in the direction of the quest site until the blinking "X" is on top of the symbols indicated in the Adventure Log (you can press {{K|Q}} at any time to look at it again).

Along the top of the map is a line showing the sky, and the position of the sun and/or moon from west to east. This primarily helps you determine how long you have before it gets dark at which point you won't be able to see very far and will be more vulnerable to attack.

While in the fast travel screen you can:

* {{k|c}} - Display/hide clouds/weather
* {{k|m}} - Display/hide the regional map on the right
* {{k|Q}} - Display the Quest log
* {{k|Z}} - Display the sleep menu

Other commands are not available until you exit fast travel with {{k|>}}.

== Status and Information ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|l}}
| Look around
|-
| {{k|Space}}
| Advance/Clear Messages
|-
| {{k|a}}
| View Announcements
|-
| {{k|z}}
| Status
|}

=== Looking Around ===

If you're not sure what a tile is, the {{k|l}}ook command will tell you. In addition to being useful for identifying tiles and creatures, you can also view creatures' equipment and what items are sitting on the ground in a given tile. If in doubt, try the look command.

Move the cursor to the tile you want to look at using direction keys and {{k|Shift}}+direction. It's possible to look up and down z-levels (assuming you have line of sight) using the {{k|<}} and {{k|>}} keys. This, for example, allows you to find out if any flying creatures are above you. Hit {{k|Esc}} to exit look mode and go back to movement mode.

=== Messages ===

The game makes frequent use of messages on the screen to tell you what is going on. If there are a lot of these you may need to use {{k|Space}} to display the rest of the messages that won't fit on the screen. You can always go back and view old messages by pressing {{k|a}}.

=== Status Screen ===

This screen shows your skills, attributes, wounded body parts, health (along with more detailed descriptions of your wounds), lets you view your description, and change your nickname if you want.

=== Saving the Game ===

Hit the {{k|Esc}} key at any time and select {{DFtext|Save Game}} to save your game. You can then come back to it later by using the {{DFtext|Continue Playing}} option in the main menu.

== Searching and Manipulating ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|u}}
| Interact with building, furniture, or mechanism
|-
| {{k|L}}
| Search the nearby area very carefully
|}

The {{k|u}} key can be used to do stuff like pull levers in your abandoned forts.

{{k|L}} will perform a thorough search of the area that you're standing in, possibly revealing some small creatures.

== Managing Equipment ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|i}}
| Show Inventory
|-
| {{k|d}}
| Drop an item
|-
| {{k|g}}
| Get (pickup) an item off the ground
|-
| {{k|p}}
| Put an item into a container
|-
| {{k|r}}
| Remove an item you are wearing or from a container
|-
| {{k|w}}
| Wear an item
|-
| {{k|I}}
| Interact with an object in an advanced way. (unstick a weapon, refill waterskin etc)
|}

=== Inventory ===

Press {{k|i}} to display a list of what you are currently carrying. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list. This list will show you if items are being worn, held in hands, stuck in your body, or are inside a container. Detailed information about an object can be viewed by pressing the key associated with the item.

=== Getting/Dropping Things ===

You can {{k|d}}rop items in your inventory, as well as {{k|g}}et items on the ground on the same tile that you are standing on. If there is more than one item a menu will be listed. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list if the list is too long to fit on the screen.

=== Containers ===

Items can be placed into containers with {{k|p}} and removed with {{k|r}}.

=== Wearing ===

Items can be worn using {{k|w}} and removed using {{k|r}} (the same command used for removing from containers. If an item you want to wear does not show up as an option then it means you are already wearing too many items in the location used by that item. Try {{K|r}}emoving items in that location and then wear them again in order of priority.

After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

See [[Armor]] for more information on wearing things. One thing to note in particular, DF allows you to wear more than one item in the same location in many situations.

=== Wielding ===

There is no command for wielding items such as [[Weapon]]s in specific hands. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapon]]s or [[shield]]s you should drop items or place them into containers (such as your backpack) until your hands are free, then get items from the floor or remove them from containers which will place them in your hands. For example, put all items into backpack, remove sword from backpack, remove shield from backpack. The items will end up in the right and left hand. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

=== Advanced Interaction ===

The {{k|I}} key allows "complex interaction" with objects in your inventory. This is used for removing arrows and weapons stuck in wounds, and refilling waterskins, but in theory various types of objects could implement some sort of behavior to be activated. Basically this is similar to "use" commands in other games.

== Time and Weather ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|D}}
| Date/Time
|-
| {{k|P}}
| Temperature
|-
| {{k|W}}
| Weather
|}

The game has a day/night cycle with time passing as various actions take place. When in the fast travel screen you can just look at the bar along the top to see where the sun is an estimate the time, but in local travel mode you'll have to use the {{k|W}} command.

When using quick travel mode the top line of the screen will indicate the position of the sun in the sky with a yellow "☼"; further to the right of the screen is earlier in the day and further to the left is later in the day.

At night you won't be able to see nearly as well and you will be more vulnerable to ambush.

The game also has weather and temperature. Weather is, to some extent, directly viewable on the fast travel screen. Temperature is important because if it happens to drop below freezing while you're swimming through water, you're dead instantly. Therefore you might want to keep an eye on the temperature while swimming, especially if it's getting cold.

Weather can also reduce visibility.

== Sleep ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Z}}
| Sleep
|}

Eventually your character will become {{DFtext|Drowsy|3:1}} and this will get worse until you get sufficient sleep.

Sleep does not necessarily have to coincide with night, but if you're traveling alone when night comes you'll be in danger of being attacked by [[bogeymen]]. To avoid this while traveling solo you need to make it to shelter before nightfall and sleep the night away inside a building or abandoned lair. Enter a building, use {{K|k}} to talk to a human, and ask for permission to stay the night. Next press {{K|Z}} to sleep, {{K|d}} to sleep until dawn, then {{K|Enter}} to confirm. ('''NOTE''': If you stay the night in a castle, you have to sleep in the keep which houses the lord/lady of the castle. Sleeping inside the castle but outside the keep still leaves you vulnerable to attack.)('''NOTE''': You can disable boogeymen by going into advanced world builder and setting "Number of Night creatures" to 0)

Though sleeping inside can be safe, it's also limiting: any quest site you want to go to has to be within a daytime's round-trip time of a safe habitation, and you have to make your way to there by hopping from one habitation to the next, sleeping at each along the way. A way to avoid this is to travel with companions. If you have any companions with you then [[bogeymen]] won't attack you. You'll still have to sleep at night, though, both to avoid sleep deprivation and because there's no visibility at night. You can still be ambushed at night by wildlife, but that's much less likely than being ambushed by [[bogeymen]] when traveling alone. If you find yourself alone at night with nowhere safe to sleep, the safest best is to keep traveling until dawn, even if that means running around in circles. You will eventually feel unwell from sleep deprivation, but this can take a considerable time. You can make up for lost sleep once you've found your way to safety.

Note that sleeping in lairs, shrines, and labyrinths makes you safe from ambush, assuming that you or someone has killed whatever was living there. If you have sufficient shrines/lairs/etc between you and your goal and they are either uninhabited or inhabited by things you are capable of killing then you can travel from lair to lair using each lair as a safe lodging. This is much much safer than sleeping out in the open, day or night, even with companions.

== Food and Drink ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|e}}
| Eat or drink something
|}

'''Note:''' As of 31.17, the need to eat and drink has been removed pending further changes.

The easiest way to stay hydrated and full when starting out is by finding and fighting something weak (say, a vulture, or a raccoon, or a fox). You will almost certainly end up covered in blood. You can drink any liquid covering you using 'e' and then simply selecting the fluid - perhaps a little salty in real life, but in Dwarf Fortress it works. The corpse can then be butchered for edible parts, to cure your hunger - the first two problems are solved.

== Combat ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|A}}
| Attack an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|A}} then {{k|Enter}}
| Wrestle an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|f}}
| Fire a projectile
|-
| {{k|t}}
| Throw an item
|-
| {{k|C}}
| Open combat preferences interface
|}

[[Combat]] is the fine art of using physical force to cause injury and death, and it is particularly fun in Dwarf Fortress.

=== Melee Attacks ===

Hostile creatures can be attacked using a non-aimed attack by simply advancing towards your enemy using the arrow keys. Doing a non-aimed attack will also free up any stuck weapon.

Any creature can be attacked by standing next to it and pressing {{k|Shift}}+{{k|A}}. Attacking a friendly or unconscious creature (which includes wild animals for elves) will further require a confirmation, given using {{k|alt}}+{{k|y}}.

Attacking a creature with {{k|A}} will allow you to make an '''aimed attack'''. You must first select the body part that you want to attack. Look at the difficulty rating for various possible attacks. Impossible attacks will be impossible to land and Easier attacks will be very easy to land. The difficulty rating for an attack does not change depending on your weapon skill. Based on player experiences, a Grand Master weapon user can almost always land a "Tricky" strike, while a Novice generally cannot. Attacks on various locations will also have limits on how "squarely" they can land (due to being out of reach, for example). Square and very square attacks will deal more damage.{{Verify}} Attacks which "can't land squarely" are generally still effective.

Attacks aimed at the head are the most effective; a single attack to the cranium with a weapon will usually put an end to the fight. Aimed attacks are especially useful for dismembering opponents. Opponents who are missing a foot will fall over, thereby greatly lowering their speed, and giving you an immediate edge in the fight. Cutting off both hands also highly recommended for obvious reasons. After all, a field full of armless, one-legged enemies can be a big experience booster for your companions.

Aimed attacks are also especially helpful when fighting giant beasts. Some enemies like giant desert scorpions have lots of redundant body parts, and random attacks waste valuable time on low priority areas while the scorpion is busy injecting venom into the whole party. Very large enemies, like giants and hydras, are too tall for effective strikes at the head. Fighting such beasts with random attacks will prove mostly futile until the monster has been knocked over, either due to spinal injuries or loss of feet. Lastly, aimed attacks allow you to grab trophies that are not available via butchering. For example, a minotaur's horns can be cut off during a fight, but since its a humanoid, most adventurers will refuse to butcher its corpse after the fight.

=== Ranged Attacks ===

To attack with a ranged weapon press the {{k|f}} key and select the square where you want to attack. Similarly use the {{k|t}} key to throw any random object in the same manner. Random objects appear to make a random attack if they happen to have more than one possible type.{{Verify}} For example, if you throw a sword it may hit with a blunt impact, a stabbing impact, or a slicing impact. Throwing crossbow bolts with sufficient throwing skill and strength seems to have an affect similar to firing them, although less powerful.

It is not possible to aim for specific body parts with ranged or thrown attacks.

=== Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks ===

:''Main article: [[Wrestling]]''

'''[[Wrestling]]''' (grappling) can be performed by standing next to an enemy and pressing {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}} to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy. Wrestling works somewhat like a targeted attack. Once you grab a creature by some body part, you may be able to make another wrestling attempt that will allow you to perform a throw or takedown.

For a detailed list of moves such as takedowns, throws, choke holds, etc, see [[Wrestling]].

It's also possible to punch, kick, and bite. These are not in the wrestling menu but are performed like normal targeted attacks with {{k|A}}.

=== Weapons ===

[[Weapon]]s are basically divided into axe, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area.

=== Wounds ===

If you get wounded during combat, there's not much that you can do except perhaps run before you get more wounded. Your wounds will heal over time, so just travel around or sleep in a safe place. Some wounds however may never heal, leaving you permanently crippled. Obtaining a crutch may help with this.

If you have some bolts or arrows stuck in your body, they can be removed by using the complex interaction menu {{k|I}}. Select the stuck bolt or arrow from the list and then pull it out with {{k|a}} You'll probably start bleeding after you pull it out, but the bleeding is rarely anything to worry about.

=== Combat Preferences ===

At any time during gameplay (Except travel mode), you can press {{k|C}} to open the Combat Preferences menu. There are three different preferences you can set: Attack, Dodge and Charge Defense. These have a few different preferences each:

*'''{{k|a}}ttack'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - The default setting. When set to this, charging happens more or less frequently, depending on the difference in size between you and the opponent. Bigger opponents get charged less, smaller more often. Can be very risky, since a random charge against a huge opponent is likely to get you knocked down and stunned. In the same vein, charging when close to obstacles or other environmental hazards is very dangerous, potentially fatal, if the enemy dodges you.
**'''Strike''' - This setting ensures that you never charge an opponent, but rather just swing your weapon at them. This carries less risk than the above, but you're never going to knock anyone down without hitting their legs or spine. Very preferable against large opponents.
**'''Charge''' - When set to this, you ALWAYS charge. When faced with numerous small enemies (Bogeymen in particular), this can be extremely useful, but remember to switch back when facing something bigger. Charging a large dragon is almost a certain death sentence.
**'''Close Combat''' - With this setting, all your auto-attacks are grapples. Generally not very useful, since the random nature of it tends to prevent you from actually doing any damage with it.

*'''{{k|d}}odge'''
**'''Move Around''' - This means you can jump away from attacks, physically moving in a random direction. While this lets you dodge attacks more often, it can also result in you jumping into a wall or down a lake. If you're fighting at really tight spaces, you might want to switch it off.
**'''Stand Ground''' - As can be expected, you stand your ground. No jumping around, which is useful in the above situation, but risky in the open. If you have room for jumping around, go with Move Around, but otherwise this could be a good idea.

*'''{{k|c}}harge Defense'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - Again, the default setting. You're more likely to stand still against small enemies charging, but will probably prefer moving away from larger ones. Somewhat risky, in that even a somewhat small enemy can stun you by charging.
**'''Dodge Away''' - With this, you'll dodge away from charging enemies, if you can. It's not a sure bet, but it's very much worth it against enemies who like to charge. This is probably the most preferable mode, since you're not losing a whole lot by dodging a small foe charging, but dodging an angry night beast can save you from a world of pain.
**'''Stand Ground''' - If you're certain of your physical superiority to the opponent, you can choose this. Standing your ground like a real man/woman might feel hardcore, but getting knocked down in a fight can be extremely dangerous. It probably has some use against bogeymen though, since they're quite small. If you really are much bigger than the enemy, you'll end up knocking THEM down. Most of the time though, charges heavily favor the attacker, so dodging away is probably preferable.

Using Combat Preferences properly can actually save your hide, so it's worth fiddling with. Just don't forget that you've fiddled with them, since a malplaced charge or dodge could end up killing you.

== Talking ==
[[File:adventurer-talking.png|thumb|400px|Talking to someone in Adventurer mode.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|k}}
| Talk to somebody
|}

Now that you know how to kill people, you may also want to know how to talk to and otherwise interact with them in a less violent manner. While this is less entertaining, it can sometimes be useful.

Press {{k|k}} to enter tal{{k|k}} mode. Move the cursor over a being and a list of language-capable beings on that tile will be shown in the lower left of the screen. If there is more than one creature on the tile, you can select the one you want to talk to using the {{k|-}}/{{k|+}} keys. Hit {{k|Enter}} to begin the conversation.

Normally you will need to Greet someone first, then you will have the following options when it comes to subjects of discussion:
*'''Trade''' - Attempt to initiate [[#Shops|trade]]. This only works for NPCs in shops.
*'''Join''' - Ask the individual to join you as one of your [[#Companions|Companions]]. Soldiers will join you 100% of the time if you don't already have too many companions, but the chance of regular townsfolk joining you will be highly impacted by your reputation.
*'''Surroundings''' - Ask about sites and things in the general geographical area. This may reveal hidden sites (such as lairs) on the map, and may also reveal bits of history such as "in 123 Urist McSucker founded Boatmurdered". This can be selected repeatedly to reveal multiple facts about the area.
*'''Capital''' - Ask where the capital of the current civilization is. As with the '''Surroundings''' topic, a random bit of the capitol's history will also be given.
*'''Service''' - Ask for a [[#Quests|quest]].
*'''Profession''' - Ask the individual about their profession. If the person is willing to '''Join''' you, they will add a line such as "How I long for some excitement in my life..".
*'''Family''' - Ask about a random family member. If the person has more than one family member then selecting this option repeatedly will eventually reveal all of them. Like Surroundings this can also reveal bits of information about history such as "Gor Lorthor was my son. In 123, Gor Lorthor was struck down by Trogdor the Flames of Burninating the Dragon."
*'''Report success/accomplishments''' - This option will only appear once you have completed a quest. Selecting it will cause you to regale people with tales of your amazing adventures, increasing your fame/reputation level. After you have done this once, with one person, the option will not appear again anywhere in any conversation until another quest has been completed. Basically everyone is telepathic and doesn't want to hear the same story again.
*'''Goodbye''' - End the conversation.

Sometimes other options may also appear. Experiment with them and see what happens.

== Companions ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|c}}
| View companion interface
|}

Companions are the guys who follow you around after you've asked them to Join and they've accepted. Your character will have a limit on the maximum number of companions that is based on fame/reputation level and the ''Social Awareness'' attribute. With average social awareness and the maximum level of fame, the limit is 19 companions.

You can use the {{k|c}} key to open up a list showing your companions and their relative position to you. This can be useful if one of them runs off somewhere and you want to find them. You can select specific companions who are in visual range in order to view them. This is the same as viewing them with {{k|l}}ook.

Short of using special utilities and hacks, you can't change your companions' equipment. When they die you can loot their corpses however. (One devious and evil way to get equipment is to intentionally get your companions killed and then take their stuff.)

Your companions will continue to follow you and fight hostile creatures around you until they either die or are left behind by entering fast travel mode while they are too far away from you. Companions with missing feet and legs will attempt to hobble along behind you.

== Civilization ==

Civilizations are organized groups of creatures (generally of the same race) which build sites such as towns.

=== Towns ===

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and shops.

Towns appear on the fast travel map as {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} or {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} symbols which are small collections of buildings. Yellow buildings indicate the presences of shops where you can trade. The buildings can be spaced rather far apart, so even when you get your @ on top of a {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} it might take some wandering about in local travel mode to find a building.

Once you find a building, step through the door. It should have multiple U's, each of which is a human.

=== Fortresses ===

Humans also live in fortresses which appear on the fast travel map as large buildings. You can't walk over them. Instead you must move over to what looks like the entrance, exit fast travel with {{k|>}}, and walk toward the direction of the fortress.

Fortresses, if they haven't been abandoned, will be populated by soldiers, a Lord or Lady of some sort, and possibly others. If they have been abandoned then they may be overrun by various wild animals. They do not contain shops.

If control of a civilization has been taken over by a Demon, the fortress may be empty except for that demon, who acts as the Lord. He will behave as any human lord. Sometimes in an abandoned fort you might also find a demon that is a prisoner, who you can actaully recruit without any significant amount of fame. If they can be trusted or not is more or less up for debate, but it is still better then Urist McFaceplant.

=== Other Sites ===

'''Note:''' As of version .25, only humans have civilization sites.

Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are two-tile-wide hallways, empty 5x5 rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Shops ===

==== Trading (barter) ====
In human towns (not hamlets or castles), you can find [[building|shops]]. Once you're inside of a shop and right next to any of the NPCs, you can use {{K|k}} to talk to him/her, then select trade. Use {{K|Enter}} to select which items to trade, left/right arrow keys to switch between the list of shop items and your items, and up/down arrow keys to scroll through the lists. Once done, press {{K|t}} to trade. The shopkeeper won't get angry if you're not offering enough in trade, so you can start offering just a few items, keep trying again with a little more until the trade is accepted. Once the trade is accepted all of the items you offered will be on the floor underneath you.

After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it. If NPCs are standing directly over the items you just bought, go prone with the {{K|s}} key so you can move onto the same space as them and pick them up.

Due to some limitations, there are only "human town" shopkeepers in a pre-fab Adventure mode civilization.

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' move a considerable distance before allowing you to quick travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

In recent versions, you may find towns that are entirely deserted. In this case, you can steal from their shops with no consequences.

'''Note that if you steal anything, then nobody in that civilization will talk to you anymore, making it impossible for you to get new quests, use the shops, or get new companions.'''

==== Selling and buying with money ====
In addition to bartering, you can sell items to a shop for coins, then use the coins to buy stuff at another shop. Just select the items you want to sell or buy, and then set a price using the following format:
* {{k|a}} asking for all of the shop's money (will be 9000☼ if you have not yet bought from or sold to that shop)
* {{k|s}} +100☼
* {{k|d}} +10☼
* {{k|f}} +1☼
* {{k|g}} reset to 0☼
* {{k|h}} -1☼ (offering)
* {{k|j}} -10☼
* {{k|k}} -100☼
* {{k|l}} offer all of your money

The use of these keys may seem non-intuitive, and this is further complicated by the limit on your available offers by your current financial health.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit. One turn after the trade session ends, the balance of your coins will appear on a small table next to a chest.

====Managing coins====
You will find that coins from one civilization are nearly worthless in other civilizations. This will typically result in adventurers carrying around lots of now useless coins. Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first. Alternatively, you can take your excess coinage and use it to purchase [[Gem|large gems]] at a trinket shop. Large gems make good investments because they are 1) light, 2) variably priced, and 3) equally valuable between different civilizations.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most notably giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves or goblins for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world - please harvest responsibly.

==== Where to get items to sell ====
The best place to get items to sell is at bandit camps, after you've slaughtered all the bandits. You can loot the clothes and equipment off of the corpses of the bandits (and off your fallen companions, too), plus at the very center of camp there'll be a few scattered weapons and a few bags/chests containing various goods.

The next best way to get items to sell is to kill non-talking monsters, butcher their corpses (see below for how), and pick up the edible bits. Butchered bits from the corpses of people (dwarves, elves, humans, etc) can sometimes be found in monster lairs and these seem to be just as desired by shopkeepers as the products you gain from your own butchering.

At the bottom of the list comes {{k|L}}ooking Carefully and selling any small creatures you might find. However, shops will not accept live creatures unless they are in cages. Some rocks, piles of sand, and other things found on the ground nearly everywhere can also be sold for 1☼ each.

== Quests ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Q}}
| Adventure (Quest) log (tasks, map, et cetera...)
|}

Once you have a quest, press {{K|Q}} to look at them (this screen is called the Adventure Log). The world map is on the left, with your current location highlighted by a blinking "O", while on the right is the list of your quests. You can select a quest and press {{K|z}} to find the location of the quest site: the blinking "O" will move to the quest site, with a green line drawing the path you need to take. Pressing {{K|m}} will tell you the species of the monster you're supposed to kill. You can also use the arrow keys to move the "O" around to examine the surrounding terrain and sites.

Note that once you complete a quest that you can report your success to ''any'' human. Once you tell one human, everyone in the same civilization will know about it. The Adventure Log will tell you to report back to a particular hamlet/town/castle, but you can safely ignore that.

If you're having trouble finding the site on the fast travel map for some reason, exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}}. In the upper left-hand corner of the screen will be a box with symbols running down the left-hand side. At the top of the box will be the symbol of your quest site, with the compass direction to the site at to its right, and "TSK" to the right of the direction indicating an unfinished quest at that site. You can then go back into fast travel mode and head in that direction.

Once you get to the quest site, you'll be unable to enter it when using quick travel mode. Attempting to do so will give the message "You cannot travel through the [site]". You must exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}} and move the rest of the way using the normal movement mode. The box in the upper left-hand corner will tell you the direction to go. When you complete the quest the "TSK" will be gone from the site's line in the box, and looking at the Adventure Log ({{K|Q}}) will show "Report Death of ..." instead of "Kill ...". You then have to move off the site using the slow travel method before entering quick travel mode again with {{K|T}} (trying to do so on the site will tell you "You cannot travel until you leave this site".)

==Crafting==
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|x}}
| Perform action (butcher, create item...)
|}

Adventurers can perform limited crafting, (also known as "reactions"). To access the crafting menu, press {{k|x}}.

'''Knapping''' allows an adventurer to sharpen a rock. '''Knapping does not work with stones in containers, only ones on the ground or in your hand.'''<br />Stones can only be {{k|d}}ropped if the stone type does not naturally exist in the biome you are in, so to use ground stones it is worthwhile to {{k|T}}ravel far from the area you {{k|g}}ot the stones. Otherwise, you can place both stones into your hands. This can be achieved by {{k|d}}ropping whatever is held in your left and right hands, then {{k|g}}etting small stones from the ground. Next, press {{k|x}} to open the action menu, and press {{k|c}}reate and then {{k|→}} to select "Make sharp stone". You will be prompted to choose a rock to sharpen ("tool stone"), and then the hammerstone. The tool stone will be replaced in your hand by a sharp version.

'''Butchering''' acts similarly to Fortress Mode's [[Butchery]] by converting a corpse into edible products, bones, and skin. A corpse must be {{k|d}}ropped onto the ground to be butchered, or held in one hand. With a sharp object (such as a dagger or knapped stone) in your hand or on the same tile of the corpse, press {{k|x}}, {{k|b}}, and {{k|→}} to select the corpse, and then the sharp tool. The corpse will be replaced by its butchering returns.

These are the only reactions possible in an unmodified game though others can be added through modding.

== FAQ ==

===How do I get past NPCs which are in my way?===
Press {{K|s}} to sit, then move to crawl between their legs. Once you're done press {{K|s}} to stand again.

===How do I find an entrance to the underworld?===
As of version 0.31.17, quest monsters no longer live in caves, so you can't find caves by asking for quests. Instead, repeatedly ask NPCs about the surroundings, and they might tell you about the location of a cave. If this doesn't show any caves, travel to a hamlet/town/castle some distance away and try again.

===I keep getting maimed and killed! How can I fight without getting seriously hurt?===
The best defense is a good offense. If you let your enemies attack you, you're (unsurprisingly) likely to get hurt eventually.
* Try to ''avoid fighting difficult enemies until you get some armor''. Don't fight enemies at all unless you're sure you can beat them. If you're unsure, you're probably going to get hurt.
* If you have good speed, try to ''fight enemies one-by-one'' - keep moving backwards and only attack when you're within range of just one enemy.
* If you have a slashing weapon, try to ''chop parts off of your enemy'' - it makes them stop fighting for a turn, allowing you to keep attacking them without being attacked in exchange. Chopping off limbs will also weaken your enemies - taking their arms can prevent them from using weapons, taking their legs can make them slow and knock them down.
* Remember that ''it's better to let your enemy come to you, than to go to your enemy''. You have to either move or attack. If you move, you can't attack, so if you move within range to attack your enemy, you allow them to have the first strike (unless you're much faster than them). On the other hand, if you let them move within range of you, then you get to have the first strike.
* Follow the advice under [[#Combat Preferences|Combat Preferences]].

===How can I obtain armor as quickly as possible?===
* Here's the evil way. If you don't mind causing an entire civilization to be hostile to you (preventing trade, et al, with that civ):
** It's relatively easy to obtain some armor by killing a sleeping soldier in a fort and taking his stuff.
** Most villagers are pretty easy to kill and while their stuff isn't usually too valuable it is worth something. Instead of killing animals you can go around killing villagers and taking their stuff, then travel to another civilization that doesn't know (or maybe care) how evil you are in order to trade.
** Don't try this in the beginning if the next civilization over is more than a day or so away. You need to be able to flee to another country in order to escape justice and continue to quest/trade.
* Pick companions with good equipment so you can "inherit" it when they get killed. Letting them do all of the fighting for a while might help speed up this process. While this might be kind of evil, it's not as evil as the first option and will cause you much less trouble.

<div id="powerleveling"></div>

===How do I increase my skills and attributes? (powerleveling)===

Here are some techniques for raising your skills, very rapidly in some cases.

Most of these skill-raising techniques involve repeatedly entering the same keystrokes. To assist with this you can use a [[Main:Macro|Macro]] to make entering the same sequence of keystrokes over and over again much easier.

Increasing skills increases associated attributes which may in turn benefit other skills. For example, sharpening rocks using {{k|x}} will increase Knapping which will increase a number of attributes that help with combat skills. See [[DF2010:Attribute#Skills_and_associated_attributes|Skills and Associated Attributes]] for a mostly complete list.

*'''Fighting and Wrestling''' - A good way to raise your Fighting and Wrestling skills and related attributes is to go find a small relatively harmless animal and wrestle with it over and over again. You can wrestle using {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}}. Continually grabbing and releasing a creature is sufficient to raise your skill, and this will not injure the animal so you can do it infinitely with the same one. Wrestling will increase Endurance as well as other stats.
*'''Shield User, Armor User, and Dodging''' - In addition to wrestling the creature, you can also sit and let it attack you to raise your defensive skills. If you have metal armor then a small animal like a gopher can't do any real damage to you even if it hits. Also change your {{K|C}}ombat preferences to "stand ground" to increase the amount of shield blocking you do, unless you want more dodging practice than shield practice.
*'''Weapon Skills and Fighting''' - Once your defensive skills are getting up there and your agility is high enough to make your speed 1300+, you might want to try fighting bogeymen to increase your weapon skill. Just make sure to fight them one at a time while running away. If you don't know what a bogeyman is yet then you are probably not ready to try this. Also, doing difficult targeted shots will gain more experience and keep the training dummy alive longer.
*'''Throwing and Archery''' - Throwing rocks with {{k|t}} will raise your Throwing and Archery skills. Being able to throw objects at creatures, while not terribly devastating (In fact, it used to be. In early 31.xx, somebody killed a bronze colossus by throwing a fluffy wambler at its head. We can only hope the wambler survived.), can still come in handy. Since throwing also raises your archery skill, you can improve your aim with bows and crossbows by throwing, but it is also possible to improve bow/crossbow skills without wasting ammunition.
*'''Marksman, Bowman, and Archery''' - Raising the bow and crossbow weapon-specific skills is best done by shooting at a wall or cliff with no floor in front of it. If bolts or arrows hit a wall that has a floor (or ground) in front of it on the same z-level the ammunition will be destroyed, however ''ammunition that falls at least one z-level after hitting a wall will remain intact.'' So, you just need to find something like a hill inside a castle, stand on the hill, then shoot at the wall on the same z-level that you're on. The arrows will hit the wall and fall one z-level to the ground, remaining intact. You can then go pick up the arrows and fire them at the wall from the hill again, ad infinitum. You can also stand next to a wall that's at least 2 z-levels high, then shoot up a z-level at the wall by hitting {{k|<}} after you hit {{k|f}}. How ever you decide to do it, the key is that the arrow needs to be able to fall at least one z-level after it hits a wall in order to remain intact. Using a macro will speed this up greatly.
*'''Ambushing and Swimming''' - When approaching a camp or other site, you may want to use {{k|S}} to sneak in and loot any loose items first. While it's very slow, you can sneak over large distances instead of using fast travel in order to increase your sneaking skill (Ambushing). It's also possible to sneak and swim at the same time, so training these things can be combined. Just make sure you '''start with at least Novice in swimming''' or you will find it practically impossible to train swimming.
*'''Observer''' - You can't really powerlevel this skill as it is slow and difficult to train, which is why you're advised to sink some points into it during character creation. The only apparent way to train this skill currently appears to be sleeping or walking around in the wilderness, repeatedly getting ambushed. Running away from the ambush, if you can, will probably allow you to repeat this cycle faster if you live.
*'''Spatial and Kinesthetic Sense''' - Sharpening rocks with {{k|x}} will improve your Knapping skills, but more importantly, raising these skills with raise your Spatial Sense and Kinesthetic Sense attributes which help with a number of other skills. This can be combined with throwing, using a macro, to keep your inventory from filling up.
*'''Other Stats''' - Other useful stats like Strength, Agility, and Toughness will increase significantly as the fighting and defense skills increase, so you don't need to do anything other than what you'd normally be doing to increase these.

===I managed to escape but my limbs are chopped off. Now what?===

It's just a fleshwound!

Unfortunately (as of .25) there's currently no way to get them back, but as long as you have at least one leg and one arm left you can actually do pretty well. First, get a crutch from somewhere, such as a general store, and make sure it's in one of your hands. Once you do that you should be able to {{k|s}}tand back up again. You will notice that your speed is now much slower than before.

Now go find someplace reasonably safe and walk back and forth until your Crutch Walking skill gets up to Legendary or above. You will notice your speed increasing as your skill levels up until your speed is completely back to normal. As a bonus you'll probably see some stat increases as well. You can continue to dodge with a crutch just as well as before.

As of version .25 you can wield a sword, shield, and crutch all in one hand, so even if you are missing an arm then you're all set. If you are missing both arms but still have both legs then unfortunately you'll be limited to biting, dodging, and wrestling with legs. If you're missing both arms and one leg then your movement will be limited and you'll be limited to biting and wrestling with your one remaining leg. And if all limbs are missing then you'll be limited to rolling around on the ground biting things.

Though you might actually be able to do surprisingly well as a Legendary Biter, especially if you powerlevel your strength to the point where you can shake things around by the teeth ripping limbs off, if you lose both legs then your character is going to be severely limited just due to the poor movement rate, so at that point it's probably best to opt for retirement or a glorious death in battle.

=== How do I keep my companions from running off after random wildlife? ===

As of version 31.25, in unmodified games, only human companions are typically available and humans currently seem to have the philosophy that all wildlife MUST DIE AN IMMEDIATE BRUTAL DEATH ASAP. While there's currently no way to order them to ignore wildlife and other neutral creatures, you can modify the ''raw\objects\entity_default.txt'' file and add the '''<nowiki>[AT_PEACE_WITH_WILDLIFE]</nowiki>''' to the entity definition for humans. This will cause humans to have an elf-like attitude toward wildlife, and vice versa. Humans will then avoid killing animals and animals will not run away from humans, also giving you somewhat of an advantage when hunting as a human.

Animals.... You either love them and they love you, or they must die a horrible death right now.

=Version Changes=

==Changes from 40d==

Fast-travel, {{k|shift}}+{{k|t}} to enter, and {{k|shift}}+{{k|.}} (Pretend you are making the '>' downstairs symbol) to exit, no longer heals all of your wounds instantly, nor can fast-travel be used when bleeding out. Some wounds do heal over time.

Cave systems are accessible to adventurers but you are virtually guaranteed to get lost exploring them - even if you find your way back to the general vicinity of the entrance, you cannot fast-{{K|T}}ravel away until you are outside. If you can make your way underneath a Human village, however, you may be able to Travel directly to the surface.

Material changes are extremely noticeable in adventure mode. Elves with wood are noticeably weaker, and throwing/ranged weapons somewhat reduced in effectiveness.

As of the current release, adventurers start out more powerful than they had in 40d, with certain builds(use all skill points) granting super-----ly tough/strong/agile at start.

"Stuck-in" weapons no longer are endlessly twisted in the wound until the creature bleeds to death, or the weapon is yanked out. There is now a roll to see who controls the stuck-in weapon on the turn following the "stuck-in" attack.

Human towns have only bronze weapons and armor, and large clothing.

Swimming, sneaking, fighting, etc. seem to improve the associated skills only. Attributes (strength, etc.) remain the same even after a long and active period of adventuring.

Combat is much more forgiving than in 40d. Bolts and arrows are less deadly, because they can be blocked with a shield. Armor protects you much better versus bolts and arrows -- when wearing plate, it's rare for one to get through. Don't assume you're arrow proof, but you can take a bit more punishment now. {{verify}} Also, no metal armor can protect one's throat. {{verify}}

Based on what civilizations are allied with humans you may be able to play Kobolds or Goblins, but only random names can be used.

== Changes in 0.31.17 ==
When generating an adventurer you now have points to assign to [[attribute]]s as well as to skills. You can reduce unwanted attributes down to 1 to get more points for other attributes.

The travel-mode map is now more zoomed-in than before. To see a fully zoomed-out map during travel mode, press {{key|m}}, and one will appear at the right.

The bar at the top of the travel-mode screen shows the position of the sun, giving you an easy indication of how much daylight is left.

You become sleepy during travel mode. You can choose to sleep or wait for a specific time using (by default) {{k|shift}}+{{k|Z}}. If you sleep outside during the night you can be ambushed by bogeymen or a myriad of other night monsters. Sleeping inside a building (including the temples and lairs of vanquished monsters) will protect you from this. Ambushes will also not be initiated when you are staying on a beach or mountain, but ones that have already started will continue even if you enter such an area.

There are now hamlets (Æ and æ) and castles (○) in addition to towns (+) (NOTE: those symbols are how they appear in the world map (fully zoomed-out)). When in a town or hamlet clusters of buildings will be marked as ■ in the mini-map in the lower-left hand corner. Only towns have shops, which appear as yellow ■ in both the travel map and the mini-map.

You can get quests from any person in a town/hamlet, and from any soldier in a castle after you've gained enough reputation from completing a few quests. Quests to kill titans, dragons and hydras you can only get from leaders found in castles, and only after you've gained a lot of reputation.

The ability to recruit soldiers now depends on reputation from completing quests, rather than how skilled you are compared to them.

Worlds generated before [[Release information/0.31.09|version 0.31.09]] cannot perform knapping in Adventure Mode, and new worlds must be generated if custom adventurer reactions are added.

=See Also=
*[[Main:Adventure Mode quick reference|Adventure Mode quick reference]]
*[[DF2010:Adventure mode quick start|quick start guide]]

{{Getting Started}}
{{Category|Adventurer mode}}
{{Category|Interface}}

v0.31:Adventurer mode

2011-12-20T01:10:56Z

Riking: /* Soul */ marked "useless" attribuites with italics

{{quality|Exceptional|15:19, 17 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

:''This is a detailed reference guide for Adventurer Mode. For a tutorial see the [[Adventure mode quick start|Adventure Mode Quickstart Guide]].
:''See [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] to quickly look up key commands.

In '''adventurer mode''' (also called "adventure mode") you create a single adventurer ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) who starts out somewhere in one of your generated worlds. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[cave]]s, shrines, lairs, abandoned towers, and other [[Site|towns and settlements]]. You can even visit your abandoned [[fortress]]es and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creature]]s that sealed their fate.

Unlike [[fortress mode]], adventurer mode is a sort of advanced [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandbox_game open world] version of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogue_%28computer_game%29 rogue] or [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nethack nethack] taking place in the same procedurally generated worlds used for fortress mode, but you control a single character in a turn-based manner rather than manage a group of creatures acting in real time.

=World Selection=

You can play Adventurer mode in any world that has a civilization with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token (which are elf, dwarf, and human in unmodded raws) but as of the current version 0.31.25 only human civilizations have towns, NPC fortresses, or shops. As a result you need at least one human civilization if you want quests or anything but basic wilderness survival. Alternately, you can alter the other races to also use human towns -- see the talk page under "Dwarven Fortresses."

If you have previously built a fort in the world that you select, your adventurer will be able to go visit it. However, the fort must be abandoned because you will not be able to start an adventure mode game in the same world with an active fortress mode game. Note, though, that you can always save your fortress mode game, duplicate the save folder (copy ''regionX'' to ''regionX-copy'' or something), abandon the fortress in the copy of the world, then start adventure mode in the new clone world.

=Character Creation=

==Race and Civilization==

Any race with the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|ADVENTURE_TIER]] token is playable in adventure mode. In an unmodded game this means [[Dwarves]], [[Elves]], and [[Human|Humans]]. All three races can complete the same quests.

*'''Civilized Humans''' begin with bronze or iron weapons and can use any of the items sold by shopkeepers (who, for the time being, are only found in human towns and only sell human-sized clothing/armor). They also start with the widest variety of weapon skills.

*'''Human Outsiders''' can only start with Spear User and Knife User as weapon skills, and they cannot start with Armor User or Shield User. They also start out literally naked with no clothing, but can wear any human-sized armor that they trade for, steal, or loot. "Outsiders" of other races can be played if you add the [[Entity_token#Gameplay|INDIV_CONTROLLABLE]] token to the race's entity definition.

*'''Dwarves''' have the advantage of being able to go into a [[Martial trance|martial trance]] when fighting multiple foes at once. They are the only race which can start with steel weapons, but they wear "small" sized clothing (like goblins and elves) which means that they're unable to wear human clothing and armor found in shops. They can start with almost all of the same weapon skills as civilized humans. Most human-sized weapons (such as longswords) must be wielded two-handed by dwarves, due to their size.

*'''Elves''' start with very weak wooden weapons and have a more limited list of weapon skills during character creation. They have the advantage that they have higher natural speed. Like dwarves they wear small sized clothing so will have the same problem finding suitable armor in shops.

If no civilization for the given race exists in a world, you won't be able to play as that race except perhaps as a human outsider.{{Verify}}

== Status ==

Determines the number of starting skill and attribute points, which does not change based on race:
*'''Peasant:''' 15 attribute, 35 skill
*'''Hero:''' 35 attribute, 95 skill
*'''Demigod:''' 105 attribute, 161 skill
The number of skill points is less significant than the number of attribute points because the time it takes to go from Peasant to Demigod in skill terms is much less than what it would take to go from Peasant to Demigod in attribute terms.

== Starting Attributes ==

[[Attribute|Attributes]] are divided into Body and Soul attributes. This section provides some guidance for allocating attributes as it relates to adventurer mode.

=== Body ===

*'''Strength''' - Alters the damage done in melee, increases muscle mass (thicker muscle layer also resists damage more), and increases how much a creature can carry. Increasing strength, at least in adventurers, increases movement speed (albeit not as much as agility) due to better carrying capacity.
*'''Agility''' - This attribute is directly related to a character's Speed and is also used in combat skills.
*'''Toughness''' - Reduces physical damage. Also relates to defensive combat skills.
*'''Endurance''' - Reduces the rate at which the adventurer becomes exhausted. Used in Wrestling.
*'''Recuperation''' - Increases the rate of wound healing. Not as important as Toughness. Recuperation isn't that useful in adventurer mode since you usually have as much time to rest as you need assuming you can escape a situation alive.
*'''Disease Resistance''' - Reduces the risk of disease. It isn't clear how useful this currently is in adventurer mode.

Strength, Agility, and Toughness are the Body attributes that most impact combat skills, and Endurance to a lesser extent.

=== Soul ===

Some of these are useful for adventure-mode-applicable skills, but some are totally useless.

*'''Analytical Ability''' - Useful for certain crafting skills, the only one currently being Knapping.
*'''Focus''' - Affects Archer, Ambusher, Observer.
*'''Willpower''' - Fighter, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, and helps resist ''pain effects'' such as those caused by chipped bones.
*'''''Creativity''''' - Currently completely useless in adventure mode. Normally it impacts crafting skills.
*'''Intuition''' - Only helps with Observer.
*'''''Patience''''' - Currently useless.
*'''''Memory''''' - Appears to be useless.
*'''Linguistic Ability''' - Currently useless because adventurers don't have social skills.
*'''Spatial Sense''' - Important. Affects combat skills, Ambusher, Crutch Walker, Swimmer, Observer, Knapping.
*'''''Musicality''''' - Completely useless as of yet.
*'''Kinesthetic Sense''' - Important. Combat skills, Crutch Walker, Swimming, Knapping,
*'''Empathy''' - Might increase chance of persuading people to Join you.{{Verify}}
*'''Social Awareness''' - Increases the number of followers you can have at a given "fame" level. Normally you start with a limit of two. Increasing this stat by one level raises that to three.

=== Attribute Advancement Cap ===

Adventure mode attributes are capped at double the starting value or the starting value plus the racial average, whichever is greater. Humans, for example, have a racial average strength of 1,000. If a human adventurer starts with an ''above average'' strength of 1,100, then his strength will ultimately be capped at 2,200. Had this human started with a ''below average'' strength of 900, then his strength would be capped at 1,900 instead. For the purpose of maximizing final attributes, this makes it important to start with as many attributes in the ''superior'' range as possible (more attributes per point allocated), while avoiding taking any penalties to even remotely important attributes (big attribute deductions per point recovered). As a consequence of the attribute cap, demi-god adventurers will always have a much higher potential for advancement than mere peasants and heroes.

== Starting Skills ==

Not all races have the same sets of skills available at character creation time, but keep in mind that all starting [[skill]]s, as well as ones not available at character creation, can be improved through use in game.

This section will specifically address starting skills as they relate to adventure mode. For a full description of combat skills see [[Combat skill]]. Other skills that you can't start with, but which can be increased in game (such as Butchery) are described elsewhere.

=== Weapon ===

The weapon you start out with will be based on which of these, plus the unarmed combat skills, is the highest. In other words, even if Swordsman is your highest weapon skill, you won't start with a sword if your Wrestler or Striker skills are better. Usually the best choice anyway is to specialize in just one melee weapon skill.

Because these tend to take a bit longer to increase in game, it makes sense to put some points into one at the beginning.

Not all races/civilizations can start with all of these skills. (For example, Dwarves can't start with Bowman or Lasher).

*'''Axeman''' - allows characters to use axes, great axes, and halberds more effectively.
*'''Bowman''' - skill allows characters to use bows more effectively.
*'''Crossbowman''' - allows characters to use crossbows more effectively. The dwarven version is called '''Marksdwarf'''.
*'''Hammerman''' - allows characters to use crossbows in melee, mauls, and war hammers more effectively.
*'''Knife User''' - allows characters to use large daggers and knives more effectively.
*'''Lasher''' - allows characters to use whips and scourges more effectively.
*'''Maceman''' - allows characters to use flails, maces, and morningstars more effectively.
*'''Pikeman''' - allows characters to use pikes more effectively.
*'''Spearman''' - allows characters to use spears more effectively.
*'''Swordsman''' - allows characters to use blowguns and bows in melee, long swords, scimitars, short swords, and two-handed swords more effectively.

=== General Combat ===

These two skills can be raised rather quickly in game and so you probably want to skip spending any points on them at the start.

*'''Fighter''' - This increases with, and contributes to, melee combat whether armed or unarmed. It appears that the purpose of it is to allow melee experience to contribute to melee combat in general regardless of weapon. Repeatedly wrestling (grabbing and releasing) even a small creature will raise this skill.
*'''Archer''' - This increases with, and contributes to, ranged combat including throwing. It works similarly to Fighter except for ranged attacks. It can be easily raised by repeatedly throwing rocks, making it advisable for archers to practice their marksmanship with rock throwing before using up the more finite and expensive forms of ammunition. Shooting at a wall with adjacent upward ramp one level below and picking back projectiles is also a good idea (such places often happen to be in castles). See the FAQ section on [[#powerleveling|powerleveling]] for information on raising bowman/marksman skills.

=== Defensive ===

These skills are critical for survival. Starting out with good ability in one (especially Shield User or Armor User) if not all is strongly advised.

*'''Shield User''' - Ability to block attacks with shields. Starting with skill in this means that the adventurer will start with a shield.
*'''Armor User''' - Related to how well an adventurer moves in armor, and increases whenever an adventurer wearing armor is attacked. A higher level of this skill reduces the encumbrance penalties of armor, allowing up to normal speed movement when wearing full steel plate. Unfortunately, starting with this skill does not provide any starting armor.
*'''Dodger''' - Ability to dodge out of the way of attacks.

=== Unarmed Combat and Improvised Weapons ===

While some of them come in handy at times, they can generally be raised fairly easily in game, especially Wrestler and Thrower.

*'''Wrestler''' - Ability to grapple, restrain, take-down, throw opponents, etc. See [[#Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks]] for details. Can be raised very easily in game.
*'''Striker''' - Punching ability.
*'''Kicker''' - Kicking ability.
*'''Biter''' - Biting ability.
*'''Thrower''' - Throwing any miscellaneous object including rocks, knives, axes, swords, heads, etc.
*'''Misc. Object User''' - Ability to beat things to death with their own severed body parts, basically. Also somewhat more commonly used for shield bashing.

=== Movement and Awareness ===

*'''[[Observer]]''' - Helps one to notice things like ambushes and enemies who are "sneaking" (stealth movement). Detection range increases with skill. Hard to train. Adding some points here is advisable.
*'''[[Swimmer]]''' - Allows movement through water without drowning. A Novice swimmer can swim but will revert to being unable to swim if stunned, which happens when falling even 1 z-level into the water. An Adequate swimmer can swim normally (not drown) while stunned. For this reason, ''starting out as an Adequate swimmer is advisable.'' If you don't, at least start as Novice and go get some swimming practice right away.
*'''[[Ambusher]]''' - The skill of {{K|S}}neaking around unobserved. This can be raised fairly easily by sneaking around while traveling from place to place when speed is not important. At lower skill levels, speed is greatly reduced, but the penalty gradually reduces until negated at Legendary skill and it's possible to sneak at full movement rate. Chance of detection is also reduced at higher skill levels; a more skilled ambusher can remain in close combat for longer without being detected.

=== Crafting ===

These allow your character to create things. There is only one skill currently available in an unmodified game.

*'''Knapper''' - The fine art of sharpening rocks by banging them together in a clever manner. The resulting rocks become sharp rocks which do more damage when thrown and can be used for things requiring a sharp edge like butchering. Easy to raise in game and doing so helps with Kinesthetic and Spatial Sense.

There is also Butchering, but you can't allocate points to that at creation time.

= Gameplay =

== Common UI Concepts ==
{{KeyConventions|3}}

== Moving Around ==

=== Local Movement ===
[[File:adventure-local-map.png|thumb|400px|The local travel screen. The lower left shows a small overview map of the area. The upper right shows a small area 1 z-level above the adventurer in the middle. The adventurer is standing in front of the door to a house full of humans, and visibility behind the house is obscured. In the upper left is a small box showing the direction to various sites (which may be quite far away).]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|Alt}} and a direction key
| Move carefully / Deliberately enter dangerous terrain
|-
| {{k|<}} or {{k|Shift}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Ascend
|-
| {{k|>}} or {{k|Ctrl}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Descend
|-
| {{k|.}}
| Wait for a step
|-
| {{k|s}}
| Stand or lie down
|-
| {{k|S}}
| Sneak
|}

Unless your character is an outsider, you will start out in a human town or hamlet; in the standard tileset the @ sign is your character. In the lower left-hand corner of the screen is a mini-map, with the @ sign showing your relative location to other things in the town/hamlet. The ▐ symbols are small collections of buildings.

The directional keys allow movement. Diagonal movement is particularly important especially when chasing or running away from things.

Use {{k|Alt}}+direction to enter water, jump off of cliffs, or otherwise attempt to enter anything that you can't enter using normal movement commands. Note that when entering water it's best to enter the actual water and not the open space over the water as, in the later case, you will fall in causing you to become stunned which may lead to drowning.

Hitting {{k|.}} allows you to stay in one place and wait for other things to move.

Use {{k|s}} to sit/lay down. Moving while laying down (crawling) will let you move past NPCs which are standing in your way. Also note that you will frequently get knocked to the ground in combat, and if you don't hit {{k|s}} to stand back up then you will crawl slowly along the ground, giving your opponent a lot of opportunity to attack you.

{{k|S}}neak will allow you to move around invisibly, limited by your Ambusher skill and the Observer skill of nearby creatures. The closer you get to a creature, the more likely you are to be detected. Your movement rate will also be very slow at low Ambusher skill levels while sneaking. If you are within observation range of anything then you will be unable to go into stealth mode. Hiding somewhere you can't be seen (such as the inside edge of a murky pool, if you can swim) will allow you to go into stealth mode when creatures are around.

=== Fast Travel ===
[[Image:adventurer-fast-travel.png|thumb|400px|Fast Travel screen. A fort is on the west side, and a town is on the east side of the map. The regional map is displayed on the far right.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|T}}
| Fast Travel
|-
| {{k|>}}
| Exit fast travel mode
|}

Entering Fast Travel mode will allow you to move large distances in a single keypress. Of course, the same amount of time will go by and you can also be interrupted (ambushed) while moving in fast travel mode.

See the [[Map legend]] for information on what the map symbols mean. Settlements are indicated by {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} tiles and you can find houses by exiting fast travel while standing on one of these tiles. Yellow tiles of the same shape {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} indicate the presence of shops rather than houses.

Pressing {{K|m}} will put a fully zoomed-out map on the right side of the screen, with your current location marked by a blinking "X". When seeking out a quest, move in the direction of the quest site until the blinking "X" is on top of the symbols indicated in the Adventure Log (you can press {{K|Q}} at any time to look at it again).

Along the top of the map is a line showing the sky, and the position of the sun and/or moon from west to east. This primarily helps you determine how long you have before it gets dark at which point you won't be able to see very far and will be more vulnerable to attack.

While in the fast travel screen you can:

* {{k|c}} - Display/hide clouds/weather
* {{k|m}} - Display/hide the regional map on the right
* {{k|Q}} - Display the Quest log
* {{k|Z}} - Display the sleep menu

Other commands are not available until you exit fast travel with {{k|>}}.

== Status and Information ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|l}}
| Look around
|-
| {{k|Space}}
| Advance/Clear Messages
|-
| {{k|a}}
| View Announcements
|-
| {{k|z}}
| Status
|}

=== Looking Around ===

If you're not sure what a tile is, the {{k|l}}ook command will tell you. In addition to being useful for identifying tiles and creatures, you can also view creatures' equipment and what items are sitting on the ground in a given tile. If in doubt, try the look command.

Move the cursor to the tile you want to look at using direction keys and {{k|Shift}}+direction. It's possible to look up and down z-levels (assuming you have line of sight) using the {{k|<}} and {{k|>}} keys. This, for example, allows you to find out if any flying creatures are above you. Hit {{k|Esc}} to exit look mode and go back to movement mode.

=== Messages ===

The game makes frequent use of messages on the screen to tell you what is going on. If there are a lot of these you may need to use {{k|Space}} to display the rest of the messages that won't fit on the screen. You can always go back and view old messages by pressing {{k|a}}.

=== Status Screen ===

This screen shows your skills, attributes, wounded body parts, health (along with more detailed descriptions of your wounds), lets you view your description, and change your nickname if you want.

=== Saving the Game ===

Hit the {{k|Esc}} key at any time and select {{DFtext|Save Game}} to save your game. You can then come back to it later by using the {{DFtext|Continue Playing}} option in the main menu.

== Searching and Manipulating ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|u}}
| Interact with building, furniture, or mechanism
|-
| {{k|L}}
| Search the nearby area very carefully
|}

The {{k|u}} key can be used to do stuff like pull levers in your abandoned forts.

{{k|L}} will perform a thorough search of the area that you're standing in, possibly revealing some small creatures.

== Managing Equipment ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|i}}
| Show Inventory
|-
| {{k|d}}
| Drop an item
|-
| {{k|g}}
| Get (pickup) an item off the ground
|-
| {{k|p}}
| Put an item into a container
|-
| {{k|r}}
| Remove an item you are wearing or from a container
|-
| {{k|w}}
| Wear an item
|-
| {{k|I}}
| Interact with an object in an advanced way. (unstick a weapon, refill waterskin etc)
|}

=== Inventory ===

Press {{k|i}} to display a list of what you are currently carrying. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list. This list will show you if items are being worn, held in hands, stuck in your body, or are inside a container. Detailed information about an object can be viewed by pressing the key associated with the item.

=== Getting/Dropping Things ===

You can {{k|d}}rop items in your inventory, as well as {{k|g}}et items on the ground on the same tile that you are standing on. If there is more than one item a menu will be listed. Press {{k|-}} {{k|+}} to scroll the list if the list is too long to fit on the screen.

=== Containers ===

Items can be placed into containers with {{k|p}} and removed with {{k|r}}.

=== Wearing ===

Items can be worn using {{k|w}} and removed using {{k|r}} (the same command used for removing from containers. If an item you want to wear does not show up as an option then it means you are already wearing too many items in the location used by that item. Try {{K|r}}emoving items in that location and then wear them again in order of priority.

After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

See [[Armor]] for more information on wearing things. One thing to note in particular, DF allows you to wear more than one item in the same location in many situations.

=== Wielding ===

There is no command for wielding items such as [[Weapon]]s in specific hands. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapon]]s or [[shield]]s you should drop items or place them into containers (such as your backpack) until your hands are free, then get items from the floor or remove them from containers which will place them in your hands. For example, put all items into backpack, remove sword from backpack, remove shield from backpack. The items will end up in the right and left hand. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

=== Advanced Interaction ===

The {{k|I}} key allows "complex interaction" with objects in your inventory. This is used for removing arrows and weapons stuck in wounds, and refilling waterskins, but in theory various types of objects could implement some sort of behavior to be activated. Basically this is similar to "use" commands in other games.

== Time and Weather ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|D}}
| Date/Time
|-
| {{k|P}}
| Temperature
|-
| {{k|W}}
| Weather
|}

The game has a day/night cycle with time passing as various actions take place. When in the fast travel screen you can just look at the bar along the top to see where the sun is an estimate the time, but in local travel mode you'll have to use the {{k|W}} command.

When using quick travel mode the top line of the screen will indicate the position of the sun in the sky with a yellow "☼"; further to the right of the screen is earlier in the day and further to the left is later in the day.

At night you won't be able to see nearly as well and you will be more vulnerable to ambush.

The game also has weather and temperature. Weather is, to some extent, directly viewable on the fast travel screen. Temperature is important because if it happens to drop below freezing while you're swimming through water, you're dead instantly. Therefore you might want to keep an eye on the temperature while swimming, especially if it's getting cold.

Weather can also reduce visibility.

== Sleep ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Z}}
| Sleep
|}

Eventually your character will become {{DFtext|Drowsy|3:1}} and this will get worse until you get sufficient sleep.

Sleep does not necessarily have to coincide with night, but if you're traveling alone when night comes you'll be in danger of being attacked by [[bogeymen]]. To avoid this while traveling solo you need to make it to shelter before nightfall and sleep the night away inside a building or abandoned lair. Enter a building, use {{K|k}} to talk to a human, and ask for permission to stay the night. Next press {{K|Z}} to sleep, {{K|d}} to sleep until dawn, then {{K|Enter}} to confirm. ('''NOTE''': If you stay the night in a castle, you have to sleep in the keep which houses the lord/lady of the castle. Sleeping inside the castle but outside the keep still leaves you vulnerable to attack.)('''NOTE''': You can disable boogeymen by going into advanced world builder and setting "Number of Night creatures" to 0)

Though sleeping inside can be safe, it's also limiting: any quest site you want to go to has to be within a daytime's round-trip time of a safe habitation, and you have to make your way to there by hopping from one habitation to the next, sleeping at each along the way. A way to avoid this is to travel with companions. If you have any companions with you then [[bogeymen]] won't attack you. You'll still have to sleep at night, though, both to avoid sleep deprivation and because there's no visibility at night. You can still be ambushed at night by wildlife, but that's much less likely than being ambushed by [[bogeymen]] when traveling alone. If you find yourself alone at night with nowhere safe to sleep, the safest best is to keep traveling until dawn, even if that means running around in circles. You will eventually feel unwell from sleep deprivation, but this can take a considerable time. You can make up for lost sleep once you've found your way to safety.

Note that sleeping in lairs, shrines, and labyrinths makes you safe from ambush, assuming that you or someone has killed whatever was living there. If you have sufficient shrines/lairs/etc between you and your goal and they are either uninhabited or inhabited by things you are capable of killing then you can travel from lair to lair using each lair as a safe lodging. This is much much safer than sleeping out in the open, day or night, even with companions.

== Food and Drink ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|e}}
| Eat or drink something
|}

'''Note:''' As of 31.17, the need to eat and drink has been removed pending further changes.

The easiest way to stay hydrated and full when starting out is by finding and fighting something weak (say, a vulture, or a raccoon, or a fox). You will almost certainly end up covered in blood. You can drink any liquid covering you using 'e' and then simply selecting the fluid - perhaps a little salty in real life, but in Dwarf Fortress it works. The corpse can then be butchered for edible parts, to cure your hunger - the first two problems are solved.

== Combat ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Attack adjacent hostile creature
|-
| {{k|A}}
| Attack an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|A}} then {{k|Enter}}
| Wrestle an adjacent creature.
|-
| {{k|f}}
| Fire a projectile
|-
| {{k|t}}
| Throw an item
|-
| {{k|C}}
| Open combat preferences interface
|}

[[Combat]] is the fine art of using physical force to cause injury and death, and it is particularly fun in Dwarf Fortress.

=== Melee Attacks ===

Hostile creatures can be attacked using a non-aimed attack by simply advancing towards your enemy using the arrow keys. Doing a non-aimed attack will also free up any stuck weapon.

Any creature can be attacked by standing next to it and pressing {{k|Shift}}+{{k|A}}. Attacking a friendly or unconscious creature (which includes wild animals for elves) will further require a confirmation, given using {{k|alt}}+{{k|y}}.

Attacking a creature with {{k|A}} will allow you to make an '''aimed attack'''. You must first select the body part that you want to attack. Look at the difficulty rating for various possible attacks. Impossible attacks will be impossible to land and Easier attacks will be very easy to land. The difficulty rating for an attack does not change depending on your weapon skill. Based on player experiences, a Grand Master weapon user can almost always land a "Tricky" strike, while a Novice generally cannot. Attacks on various locations will also have limits on how "squarely" they can land (due to being out of reach, for example). Square and very square attacks will deal more damage.{{Verify}} Attacks which "can't land squarely" are generally still effective.

Attacks aimed at the head are the most effective; a single attack to the cranium with a weapon will usually put an end to the fight. Aimed attacks are especially useful for dismembering opponents. Opponents who are missing a foot will fall over, thereby greatly lowering their speed, and giving you an immediate edge in the fight. Cutting off both hands also highly recommended for obvious reasons. After all, a field full of armless, one-legged enemies can be a big experience booster for your companions.

Aimed attacks are also especially helpful when fighting giant beasts. Some enemies like giant desert scorpions have lots of redundant body parts, and random attacks waste valuable time on low priority areas while the scorpion is busy injecting venom into the whole party. Very large enemies, like giants and hydras, are too tall for effective strikes at the head. Fighting such beasts with random attacks will prove mostly futile until the monster has been knocked over, either due to spinal injuries or loss of feet. Lastly, aimed attacks allow you to grab trophies that are not available via butchering. For example, a minotaur's horns can be cut off during a fight, but since its a humanoid, most adventurers will refuse to butcher its corpse after the fight.

=== Ranged Attacks ===

To attack with a ranged weapon press the {{k|f}} key and select the square where you want to attack. Similarly use the {{k|t}} key to throw any random object in the same manner. Random objects appear to make a random attack if they happen to have more than one possible type.{{Verify}} For example, if you throw a sword it may hit with a blunt impact, a stabbing impact, or a slicing impact. Throwing crossbow bolts with sufficient throwing skill and strength seems to have an affect similar to firing them, although less powerful.

It is not possible to aim for specific body parts with ranged or thrown attacks.

=== Wrestling and Unarmed Attacks ===

:''Main article: [[Wrestling]]''

'''[[Wrestling]]''' (grappling) can be performed by standing next to an enemy and pressing {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}} to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy. Wrestling works somewhat like a targeted attack. Once you grab a creature by some body part, you may be able to make another wrestling attempt that will allow you to perform a throw or takedown.

For a detailed list of moves such as takedowns, throws, choke holds, etc, see [[Wrestling]].

It's also possible to punch, kick, and bite. These are not in the wrestling menu but are performed like normal targeted attacks with {{k|A}}.

=== Weapons ===

[[Weapon]]s are basically divided into axe, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area.

=== Wounds ===

If you get wounded during combat, there's not much that you can do except perhaps run before you get more wounded. Your wounds will heal over time, so just travel around or sleep in a safe place. Some wounds however may never heal, leaving you permanently crippled. Obtaining a crutch may help with this.

If you have some bolts or arrows stuck in your body, they can be removed by using the complex interaction menu {{k|I}}. Select the stuck bolt or arrow from the list and then pull it out with {{k|a}} You'll probably start bleeding after you pull it out, but the bleeding is rarely anything to worry about.

=== Combat Preferences ===

At any time during gameplay (Except travel mode), you can press {{k|C}} to open the Combat Preferences menu. There are three different preferences you can set: Attack, Dodge and Charge Defense. These have a few different preferences each:

*'''{{k|a}}ttack'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - The default setting. When set to this, charging happens more or less frequently, depending on the difference in size between you and the opponent. Bigger opponents get charged less, smaller more often. Can be very risky, since a random charge against a huge opponent is likely to get you knocked down and stunned. In the same vein, charging when close to obstacles or other environmental hazards is very dangerous, potentially fatal, if the enemy dodges you.
**'''Strike''' - This setting ensures that you never charge an opponent, but rather just swing your weapon at them. This carries less risk than the above, but you're never going to knock anyone down without hitting their legs or spine. Very preferable against large opponents.
**'''Charge''' - When set to this, you ALWAYS charge. When faced with numerous small enemies (Bogeymen in particular), this can be extremely useful, but remember to switch back when facing something bigger. Charging a large dragon is almost a certain death sentence.
**'''Close Combat''' - With this setting, all your auto-attacks are grapples. Generally not very useful, since the random nature of it tends to prevent you from actually doing any damage with it.

*'''{{k|d}}odge'''
**'''Move Around''' - This means you can jump away from attacks, physically moving in a random direction. While this lets you dodge attacks more often, it can also result in you jumping into a wall or down a lake. If you're fighting at really tight spaces, you might want to switch it off.
**'''Stand Ground''' - As can be expected, you stand your ground. No jumping around, which is useful in the above situation, but risky in the open. If you have room for jumping around, go with Move Around, but otherwise this could be a good idea.

*'''{{k|c}}harge Defense'''
**'''According to Opponent''' - Again, the default setting. You're more likely to stand still against small enemies charging, but will probably prefer moving away from larger ones. Somewhat risky, in that even a somewhat small enemy can stun you by charging.
**'''Dodge Away''' - With this, you'll dodge away from charging enemies, if you can. It's not a sure bet, but it's very much worth it against enemies who like to charge. This is probably the most preferable mode, since you're not losing a whole lot by dodging a small foe charging, but dodging an angry night beast can save you from a world of pain.
**'''Stand Ground''' - If you're certain of your physical superiority to the opponent, you can choose this. Standing your ground like a real man/woman might feel hardcore, but getting knocked down in a fight can be extremely dangerous. It probably has some use against bogeymen though, since they're quite small. If you really are much bigger than the enemy, you'll end up knocking THEM down. Most of the time though, charges heavily favor the attacker, so dodging away is probably preferable.

Using Combat Preferences properly can actually save your hide, so it's worth fiddling with. Just don't forget that you've fiddled with them, since a malplaced charge or dodge could end up killing you.

== Talking ==
[[File:adventurer-talking.png|thumb|400px|Talking to someone in Adventurer mode.]]
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|k}}
| Talk to somebody
|}

Now that you know how to kill people, you may also want to know how to talk to and otherwise interact with them in a less violent manner. While this is less entertaining, it can sometimes be useful.

Press {{k|k}} to enter tal{{k|k}} mode. Move the cursor over a being and a list of language-capable beings on that tile will be shown in the lower left of the screen. If there is more than one creature on the tile, you can select the one you want to talk to using the {{k|-}}/{{k|+}} keys. Hit {{k|Enter}} to begin the conversation.

Normally you will need to Greet someone first, then you will have the following options when it comes to subjects of discussion:
*'''Trade''' - Attempt to initiate [[#Shops|trade]]. This only works for NPCs in shops.
*'''Join''' - Ask the individual to join you as one of your [[#Companions|Companions]]. Soldiers will join you 100% of the time if you don't already have too many companions, but the chance of regular townsfolk joining you will be highly impacted by your reputation.
*'''Surroundings''' - Ask about sites and things in the general geographical area. This may reveal hidden sites (such as lairs) on the map, and may also reveal bits of history such as "in 123 Urist McSucker founded Boatmurdered". This can be selected repeatedly to reveal multiple facts about the area.
*'''Capital''' - Ask where the capital of the current civilization is. As with the '''Surroundings''' topic, a random bit of the capitol's history will also be given.
*'''Service''' - Ask for a [[#Quests|quest]].
*'''Profession''' - Ask the individual about their profession. If the person is willing to '''Join''' you, they will add a line such as "How I long for some excitement in my life..".
*'''Family''' - Ask about a random family member. If the person has more than one family member then selecting this option repeatedly will eventually reveal all of them. Like Surroundings this can also reveal bits of information about history such as "Gor Lorthor was my son. In 123, Gor Lorthor was struck down by Trogdor the Flames of Burninating the Dragon."
*'''Report success/accomplishments''' - This option will only appear once you have completed a quest. Selecting it will cause you to regale people with tales of your amazing adventures, increasing your fame/reputation level. After you have done this once, with one person, the option will not appear again anywhere in any conversation until another quest has been completed. Basically everyone is telepathic and doesn't want to hear the same story again.
*'''Goodbye''' - End the conversation.

Sometimes other options may also appear. Experiment with them and see what happens.

== Companions ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|c}}
| View companion interface
|}

Companions are the guys who follow you around after you've asked them to Join and they've accepted. Your character will have a limit on the maximum number of companions that is based on fame/reputation level and the ''Social Awareness'' attribute. With average social awareness and the maximum level of fame, the limit is 19 companions.

You can use the {{k|c}} key to open up a list showing your companions and their relative position to you. This can be useful if one of them runs off somewhere and you want to find them. You can select specific companions who are in visual range in order to view them. This is the same as viewing them with {{k|l}}ook.

Short of using special utilities and hacks, you can't change your companions' equipment. When they die you can loot their corpses however. (One devious and evil way to get equipment is to intentionally get your companions killed and then take their stuff.)

Your companions will continue to follow you and fight hostile creatures around you until they either die or are left behind by entering fast travel mode while they are too far away from you. Companions with missing feet and legs will attempt to hobble along behind you.

== Civilization ==

Civilizations are organized groups of creatures (generally of the same race) which build sites such as towns.

=== Towns ===

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and shops.

Towns appear on the fast travel map as {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} or {{Tile|■|6:0:1}} symbols which are small collections of buildings. Yellow buildings indicate the presences of shops where you can trade. The buildings can be spaced rather far apart, so even when you get your @ on top of a {{Tile|■|7:0:1}} it might take some wandering about in local travel mode to find a building.

Once you find a building, step through the door. It should have multiple U's, each of which is a human.

=== Fortresses ===

Humans also live in fortresses which appear on the fast travel map as large buildings. You can't walk over them. Instead you must move over to what looks like the entrance, exit fast travel with {{k|>}}, and walk toward the direction of the fortress.

Fortresses, if they haven't been abandoned, will be populated by soldiers, a Lord or Lady of some sort, and possibly others. If they have been abandoned then they may be overrun by various wild animals. They do not contain shops.

If control of a civilization has been taken over by a Demon, the fortress may be empty except for that demon, who acts as the Lord. He will behave as any human lord. Sometimes in an abandoned fort you might also find a demon that is a prisoner, who you can actaully recruit without any significant amount of fame. If they can be trusted or not is more or less up for debate, but it is still better then Urist McFaceplant.

=== Other Sites ===

'''Note:''' As of version .25, only humans have civilization sites.

Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are two-tile-wide hallways, empty 5x5 rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Shops ===

==== Trading (barter) ====
In human towns (not hamlets or castles), you can find [[building|shops]]. Once you're inside of a shop and right next to any of the NPCs, you can use {{K|k}} to talk to him/her, then select trade. Use {{K|Enter}} to select which items to trade, left/right arrow keys to switch between the list of shop items and your items, and up/down arrow keys to scroll through the lists. Once done, press {{K|t}} to trade. The shopkeeper won't get angry if you're not offering enough in trade, so you can start offering just a few items, keep trying again with a little more until the trade is accepted. Once the trade is accepted all of the items you offered will be on the floor underneath you.

After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it. If NPCs are standing directly over the items you just bought, go prone with the {{K|s}} key so you can move onto the same space as them and pick them up.

Due to some limitations, there are only "human town" shopkeepers in a pre-fab Adventure mode civilization.

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' move a considerable distance before allowing you to quick travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

In recent versions, you may find towns that are entirely deserted. In this case, you can steal from their shops with no consequences.

'''Note that if you steal anything, then nobody in that civilization will talk to you anymore, making it impossible for you to get new quests, use the shops, or get new companions.'''

==== Selling and buying with money ====
In addition to bartering, you can sell items to a shop for coins, then use the coins to buy stuff at another shop. Just select the items you want to sell or buy, and then set a price using the following format:
* {{k|a}} asking for all of the shop's money (will be 9000☼ if you have not yet bought from or sold to that shop)
* {{k|s}} +100☼
* {{k|d}} +10☼
* {{k|f}} +1☼
* {{k|g}} reset to 0☼
* {{k|h}} -1☼ (offering)
* {{k|j}} -10☼
* {{k|k}} -100☼
* {{k|l}} offer all of your money

The use of these keys may seem non-intuitive, and this is further complicated by the limit on your available offers by your current financial health.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit. One turn after the trade session ends, the balance of your coins will appear on a small table next to a chest.

====Managing coins====
You will find that coins from one civilization are nearly worthless in other civilizations. This will typically result in adventurers carrying around lots of now useless coins. Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first. Alternatively, you can take your excess coinage and use it to purchase [[Gem|large gems]] at a trinket shop. Large gems make good investments because they are 1) light, 2) variably priced, and 3) equally valuable between different civilizations.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most notably giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves or goblins for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world - please harvest responsibly.

==== Where to get items to sell ====
The best place to get items to sell is at bandit camps, after you've slaughtered all the bandits. You can loot the clothes and equipment off of the corpses of the bandits (and off your fallen companions, too), plus at the very center of camp there'll be a few scattered weapons and a few bags/chests containing various goods.

The next best way to get items to sell is to kill non-talking monsters, butcher their corpses (see below for how), and pick up the edible bits. Butchered bits from the corpses of people (dwarves, elves, humans, etc) can sometimes be found in monster lairs and these seem to be just as desired by shopkeepers as the products you gain from your own butchering.

At the bottom of the list comes {{k|L}}ooking Carefully and selling any small creatures you might find. However, shops will not accept live creatures unless they are in cages. Some rocks, piles of sand, and other things found on the ground nearly everywhere can also be sold for 1☼ each.

== Quests ==

{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|Q}}
| Adventure (Quest) log (tasks, map, et cetera...)
|}

Once you have a quest, press {{K|Q}} to look at them (this screen is called the Adventure Log). The world map is on the left, with your current location highlighted by a blinking "O", while on the right is the list of your quests. You can select a quest and press {{K|z}} to find the location of the quest site: the blinking "O" will move to the quest site, with a green line drawing the path you need to take. Pressing {{K|m}} will tell you the species of the monster you're supposed to kill. You can also use the arrow keys to move the "O" around to examine the surrounding terrain and sites.

Note that once you complete a quest that you can report your success to ''any'' human. Once you tell one human, everyone in the same civilization will know about it. The Adventure Log will tell you to report back to a particular hamlet/town/castle, but you can safely ignore that.

If you're having trouble finding the site on the fast travel map for some reason, exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}}. In the upper left-hand corner of the screen will be a box with symbols running down the left-hand side. At the top of the box will be the symbol of your quest site, with the compass direction to the site at to its right, and "TSK" to the right of the direction indicating an unfinished quest at that site. You can then go back into fast travel mode and head in that direction.

Once you get to the quest site, you'll be unable to enter it when using quick travel mode. Attempting to do so will give the message "You cannot travel through the [site]". You must exit quick travel mode by pressing {{K|>}} and move the rest of the way using the normal movement mode. The box in the upper left-hand corner will tell you the direction to go. When you complete the quest the "TSK" will be gone from the site's line in the box, and looking at the Adventure Log ({{K|Q}}) will show "Report Death of ..." instead of "Kill ...". You then have to move off the site using the slow travel method before entering quick travel mode again with {{K|T}} (trying to do so on the site will tell you "You cannot travel until you leave this site".)

==Crafting==
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
| {{k|x}}
| Perform action (butcher, create item...)
|}

Adventurers can perform limited crafting, (also known as "reactions"). To access the crafting menu, press {{k|x}}.

'''Knapping''' allows an adventurer to sharpen a rock. '''Knapping does not work with stones in containers, only ones on the ground or in your hand.'''<br />Stones can only be {{k|d}}ropped if the stone type does not naturally exist in the biome you are in, so to use ground stones it is worthwhile to {{k|T}}ravel far from the area you {{k|g}}ot the stones. Otherwise, you can place both stones into your hands. This can be achieved by {{k|d}}ropping whatever is held in your left and right hands, then {{k|g}}etting small stones from the ground. Next, press {{k|x}} to open the action menu, and press {{k|c}}reate and then {{k|→}} to select "Make sharp stone". You will be prompted to choose a rock to sharpen ("tool stone"), and then the hammerstone. The tool stone will be replaced in your hand by a sharp version.

'''Butchering''' acts similarly to Fortress Mode's [[Butchery]] by converting a corpse into edible products, bones, and skin. A corpse must be {{k|d}}ropped onto the ground to be butchered, or held in one hand. With a sharp object (such as a dagger or knapped stone) in your hand or on the same tile of the corpse, press {{k|x}}, {{k|b}}, and {{k|→}} to select the corpse, and then the sharp tool. The corpse will be replaced by its butchering returns.

These are the only reactions possible in an unmodified game though others can be added through modding.

== FAQ ==

===How do I get past NPCs which are in my way?===
Press {{K|s}} to sit, then move to crawl between their legs. Once you're done press {{K|s}} to stand again.

===How do I find an entrance to the underworld?===
As of version 0.31.17, quest monsters no longer live in caves, so you can't find caves by asking for quests. Instead, repeatedly ask NPCs about the surroundings, and they might tell you about the location of a cave. If this doesn't show any caves, travel to a hamlet/town/castle some distance away and try again.

===I keep getting maimed and killed! How can I fight without getting seriously hurt?===
The best defense is a good offense. If you let your enemies attack you, you're (unsurprisingly) likely to get hurt eventually.
* Try to ''avoid fighting difficult enemies until you get some armor''. Don't fight enemies at all unless you're sure you can beat them. If you're unsure, you're probably going to get hurt.
* If you have good speed, try to ''fight enemies one-by-one'' - keep moving backwards and only attack when you're within range of just one enemy.
* If you have a slashing weapon, try to ''chop parts off of your enemy'' - it makes them stop fighting for a turn, allowing you to keep attacking them without being attacked in exchange. Chopping off limbs will also weaken your enemies - taking their arms can prevent them from using weapons, taking their legs can make them slow and knock them down.
* Remember that ''it's better to let your enemy come to you, than to go to your enemy''. You have to either move or attack. If you move, you can't attack, so if you move within range to attack your enemy, you allow them to have the first strike (unless you're much faster than them). On the other hand, if you let them move within range of you, then you get to have the first strike.
* Follow the advice under [[#Combat Preferences|Combat Preferences]].

===How can I obtain armor as quickly as possible?===
* Here's the evil way. If you don't mind causing an entire civilization to be hostile to you (preventing trade, et al, with that civ):
** It's relatively easy to obtain some armor by killing a sleeping soldier in a fort and taking his stuff.
** Most villagers are pretty easy to kill and while their stuff isn't usually too valuable it is worth something. Instead of killing animals you can go around killing villagers and taking their stuff, then travel to another civilization that doesn't know (or maybe care) how evil you are in order to trade.
** Don't try this in the beginning if the next civilization over is more than a day or so away. You need to be able to flee to another country in order to escape justice and continue to quest/trade.
* Pick companions with good equipment so you can "inherit" it when they get killed. Letting them do all of the fighting for a while might help speed up this process. While this might be kind of evil, it's not as evil as the first option and will cause you much less trouble.

<div id="powerleveling"></div>

===How do I increase my skills and attributes? (powerleveling)===

Here are some techniques for raising your skills, very rapidly in some cases.

Most of these skill-raising techniques involve repeatedly entering the same keystrokes. To assist with this you can use a [[Main:Macro|Macro]] to make entering the same sequence of keystrokes over and over again much easier.

Increasing skills increases associated attributes which may in turn benefit other skills. For example, sharpening rocks using {{k|x}} will increase Knapping which will increase a number of attributes that help with combat skills. See [[DF2010:Attribute#Skills_and_associated_attributes|Skills and Associated Attributes]] for a mostly complete list.

*'''Fighting and Wrestling''' - A good way to raise your Fighting and Wrestling skills and related attributes is to go find a small relatively harmless animal and wrestle with it over and over again. You can wrestle using {{k|A}} followed by {{k|Enter}}. Continually grabbing and releasing a creature is sufficient to raise your skill, and this will not injure the animal so you can do it infinitely with the same one. Wrestling will increase Endurance as well as other stats.
*'''Shield User, Armor User, and Dodging''' - In addition to wrestling the creature, you can also sit and let it attack you to raise your defensive skills. If you have metal armor then a small animal like a gopher can't do any real damage to you even if it hits. Also change your {{K|C}}ombat preferences to "stand ground" to increase the amount of shield blocking you do, unless you want more dodging practice than shield practice.
*'''Weapon Skills and Fighting''' - Once your defensive skills are getting up there and your agility is high enough to make your speed 1300+, you might want to try fighting bogeymen to increase your weapon skill. Just make sure to fight them one at a time while running away. If you don't know what a bogeyman is yet then you are probably not ready to try this. Also, doing difficult targeted shots will gain more experience and keep the training dummy alive longer.
*'''Throwing and Archery''' - Throwing rocks with {{k|t}} will raise your Throwing and Archery skills. Being able to throw objects at creatures, while not terribly devastating (In fact, it used to be. In early 31.xx, somebody killed a bronze colossus by throwing a fluffy wambler at its head. We can only hope the wambler survived.), can still come in handy. Since throwing also raises your archery skill, you can improve your aim with bows and crossbows by throwing, but it is also possible to improve bow/crossbow skills without wasting ammunition.
*'''Marksman, Bowman, and Archery''' - Raising the bow and crossbow weapon-specific skills is best done by shooting at a wall or cliff with no floor in front of it. If bolts or arrows hit a wall that has a floor (or ground) in front of it on the same z-level the ammunition will be destroyed, however ''ammunition that falls at least one z-level after hitting a wall will remain intact.'' So, you just need to find something like a hill inside a castle, stand on the hill, then shoot at the wall on the same z-level that you're on. The arrows will hit the wall and fall one z-level to the ground, remaining intact. You can then go pick up the arrows and fire them at the wall from the hill again, ad infinitum. You can also stand next to a wall that's at least 2 z-levels high, then shoot up a z-level at the wall by hitting {{k|<}} after you hit {{k|f}}. How ever you decide to do it, the key is that the arrow needs to be able to fall at least one z-level after it hits a wall in order to remain intact. Using a macro will speed this up greatly.
*'''Ambushing and Swimming''' - When approaching a camp or other site, you may want to use {{k|S}} to sneak in and loot any loose items first. While it's very slow, you can sneak over large distances instead of using fast travel in order to increase your sneaking skill (Ambushing). It's also possible to sneak and swim at the same time, so training these things can be combined. Just make sure you '''start with at least Novice in swimming''' or you will find it practically impossible to train swimming.
*'''Observer''' - You can't really powerlevel this skill as it is slow and difficult to train, which is why you're advised to sink some points into it during character creation. The only apparent way to train this skill currently appears to be sleeping or walking around in the wilderness, repeatedly getting ambushed. Running away from the ambush, if you can, will probably allow you to repeat this cycle faster if you live.
*'''Spatial and Kinesthetic Sense''' - Sharpening rocks with {{k|x}} will improve your Knapping skills, but more importantly, raising these skills with raise your Spatial Sense and Kinesthetic Sense attributes which help with a number of other skills. This can be combined with throwing, using a macro, to keep your inventory from filling up.
*'''Other Stats''' - Other useful stats like Strength, Agility, and Toughness will increase significantly as the fighting and defense skills increase, so you don't need to do anything other than what you'd normally be doing to increase these.

===I managed to escape but my limbs are chopped off. Now what?===

It's just a fleshwound!

Unfortunately (as of .25) there's currently no way to get them back, but as long as you have at least one leg and one arm left you can actually do pretty well. First, get a crutch from somewhere, such as a general store, and make sure it's in one of your hands. Once you do that you should be able to {{k|s}}tand back up again. You will notice that your speed is now much slower than before.

Now go find someplace reasonably safe and walk back and forth until your Crutch Walking skill gets up to Legendary or above. You will notice your speed increasing as your skill levels up until your speed is completely back to normal. As a bonus you'll probably see some stat increases as well. You can continue to dodge with a crutch just as well as before.

As of version .25 you can wield a sword, shield, and crutch all in one hand, so even if you are missing an arm then you're all set. If you are missing both arms but still have both legs then unfortunately you'll be limited to biting, dodging, and wrestling with legs. If you're missing both arms and one leg then your movement will be limited and you'll be limited to biting and wrestling with your one remaining leg. And if all limbs are missing then you'll be limited to rolling around on the ground biting things.

Though you might actually be able to do surprisingly well as a Legendary Biter, especially if you powerlevel your strength to the point where you can shake things around by the teeth ripping limbs off, if you lose both legs then your character is going to be severely limited just due to the poor movement rate, so at that point it's probably best to opt for retirement or a glorious death in battle.

=== How do I keep my companions from running off after random wildlife? ===

As of version 31.25, in unmodified games, only human companions are typically available and humans currently seem to have the philosophy that all wildlife MUST DIE AN IMMEDIATE BRUTAL DEATH ASAP. While there's currently no way to order them to ignore wildlife and other neutral creatures, you can modify the ''raw\objects\entity_default.txt'' file and add the '''<nowiki>[AT_PEACE_WITH_WILDLIFE]</nowiki>''' to the entity definition for humans. This will cause humans to have an elf-like attitude toward wildlife, and vice versa. Humans will then avoid killing animals and animals will not run away from humans, also giving you somewhat of an advantage when hunting as a human.

Animals.... You either love them and they love you, or they must die a horrible death right now.

=Version Changes=

==Changes from 40d==

Fast-travel, {{k|shift}}+{{k|t}} to enter, and {{k|shift}}+{{k|.}} (Pretend you are making the '>' downstairs symbol) to exit, no longer heals all of your wounds instantly, nor can fast-travel be used when bleeding out. Some wounds do heal over time.

Cave systems are accessible to adventurers but you are virtually guaranteed to get lost exploring them - even if you find your way back to the general vicinity of the entrance, you cannot fast-{{K|T}}ravel away until you are outside. If you can make your way underneath a Human village, however, you may be able to Travel directly to the surface.

Material changes are extremely noticeable in adventure mode. Elves with wood are noticeably weaker, and throwing/ranged weapons somewhat reduced in effectiveness.

As of the current release, adventurers start out more powerful than they had in 40d, with certain builds(use all skill points) granting super-----ly tough/strong/agile at start.

"Stuck-in" weapons no longer are endlessly twisted in the wound until the creature bleeds to death, or the weapon is yanked out. There is now a roll to see who controls the stuck-in weapon on the turn following the "stuck-in" attack.

Human towns have only bronze weapons and armor, and large clothing.

Swimming, sneaking, fighting, etc. seem to improve the associated skills only. Attributes (strength, etc.) remain the same even after a long and active period of adventuring.

Combat is much more forgiving than in 40d. Bolts and arrows are less deadly, because they can be blocked with a shield. Armor protects you much better versus bolts and arrows -- when wearing plate, it's rare for one to get through. Don't assume you're arrow proof, but you can take a bit more punishment now. {{verify}} Also, no metal armor can protect one's throat. {{verify}}

Based on what civilizations are allied with humans you may be able to play Kobolds or Goblins, but only random names can be used.

== Changes in 0.31.17 ==
When generating an adventurer you now have points to assign to [[attribute]]s as well as to skills. You can reduce unwanted attributes down to 1 to get more points for other attributes.

The travel-mode map is now more zoomed-in than before. To see a fully zoomed-out map during travel mode, press {{key|m}}, and one will appear at the right.

The bar at the top of the travel-mode screen shows the position of the sun, giving you an easy indication of how much daylight is left.

You become sleepy during travel mode. You can choose to sleep or wait for a specific time using (by default) {{k|shift}}+{{k|Z}}. If you sleep outside during the night you can be ambushed by bogeymen or a myriad of other night monsters. Sleeping inside a building (including the temples and lairs of vanquished monsters) will protect you from this. Ambushes will also not be initiated when you are staying on a beach or mountain, but ones that have already started will continue even if you enter such an area.

There are now hamlets (Æ and æ) and castles (○) in addition to towns (+) (NOTE: those symbols are how they appear in the world map (fully zoomed-out)). When in a town or hamlet clusters of buildings will be marked as ■ in the mini-map in the lower-left hand corner. Only towns have shops, which appear as yellow ■ in both the travel map and the mini-map.

You can get quests from any person in a town/hamlet, and from any soldier in a castle after you've gained enough reputation from completing a few quests. Quests to kill titans, dragons and hydras you can only get from leaders found in castles, and only after you've gained a lot of reputation.

The ability to recruit soldiers now depends on reputation from completing quests, rather than how skilled you are compared to them.

Worlds generated before [[Release information/0.31.09|version 0.31.09]] cannot perform knapping in Adventure Mode, and new worlds must be generated if custom adventurer reactions are added.

=See Also=
*[[Main:Adventure Mode quick reference|Adventure Mode quick reference]]
*[[DF2010:Adventure mode quick start|quick start guide]]

{{Getting Started}}
{{Category|Adventurer mode}}
{{Category|Interface}}

v0.31 Talk:General

2011-12-19T02:03:18Z

Riking: Created page with "What's the rationale for marking this as tattered? I'll look at the guidelines again, but it looks like at least fine. ~~~~"

What's the rationale for marking this as tattered? I'll look at the guidelines again, but it looks like at least fine. [[User:Riking|Riking]] 02:03, 19 December 2011 (UTC)

v0.31:Dwarven economy

2011-12-19T02:01:26Z

Riking: improving stubs: added sentence referencing other page

{{quality|Tattered|20:24, 28 November 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

In the current version, there are no conditions under which the economy will activate. [[Main:Toady One|Toady One]] has stated that it may come back in after sweeping changes are made to make it less broken.

For how the Dwarven economy worked in previous versions, see [[40d:Dwarven economy]].

==Related Pages==
* [[Currency]]

v0.31:Bone meal

2011-12-19T01:59:44Z

Riking: copypasta the IRL section from 40d

{{av}}
{{Quality|Tattered|20:35, 4 January 2011 (UTC)}}
{{Expand Topic}}
Bone meal is an item, with no use, that appears in the custom [[DF2010:Stockpile#Food|food stockpile]] options.

While it frequently appears in lairs in [[Adventure mode]], it does not normally appear in [[Dwarf fortress mode]]. In any case it appears to have no use, except perhaps as supplemental calcium for [[night creature]]s.

In reality, bone meal is a primitive food supplement made by grinding bones into a fine powder.

User:Jong/Dwarven Computer

2011-12-18T22:24:59Z

Riking: /* Design for a memory cell for use in registers/memory unit */ added explanations to logic grid

This page documents the design of my Dwarven Computer. A number of designs were modified for the final implementation.

Adapted from my GoogleDocs [http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AdISzBuNg6ZWZGd0d2t4YjlfMjJ0ejlzc2dnaA&hl=en manuscript]

== Notes ==

Toggled gear assemblies are designed as though they are off in when untriggered. However they are constructed in the on position. This means that you need to build and link a lever to toggle it to the off state.

==Power sensor (output device)==

# %>^ #
~ ~ ~ ~# Power sensor side view

In order to do useful things, such as toggling gears assemblies, opening doors, etc., mechanical power signals need to be converted to a trigger signal. There are only 2 trigger signal generators in dwarf fortress. One is the lever, which cannot be linked to machine power. The other is a pressure plate, which can.

The basic operation of this component is simple. Power operates the pump, pushing water over the pressure plate, generating a signal. When the pump is not powered, the water drains, switching the pressure plate off after at least 100 steps.

The smooth operation of this unit depends on several factors:
1. Adequate supply of water in the input tile so that the pump can maintain 7/7 or 6/7 water levels on the pressure plate. Can be done by providing more water tiles adjacent to the input tile.
2. Fast drainage to minimize the time needed for the plate to switch off. Just make sure that the level below the pumps is not completely full.
3. Since the minimum recovery time of the pressure plate is 100 steps, it can take a good long time for a 0-bit to reach the end of a chain of output units.

==Design for a memory cell for use in registers/memory unit==

###
#H#
#^#PRoO
#%#
#%WIP
#~#
###

This design is based on plans found at User:SL/Logic_Gates on the wiki. For this design, the write-in signal is linked to gear W and hatch H, while the read-out signal is linked to gear R. Gear o is linked to the pressure plate ^ and represents the state of the cell. Big O represents to output signal and I represents the input signal. P represents a power source. The hatch prevents the water from draining thus preserving the data.

In order to act as a memory cell, this unit must do 3 things:
1. Output its state when told to read-out
2. Change state to match an input when told to write-in
3. Maintain its state when not told to do anything

Let's check this by examining the operation of this unit.

{| class="wikitable" border=1 style="text-align:center" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|-
!width="40"|R
!width="40"|W
!width="40"|I
!width="40"|State
!width="40"|O
!Explanation
|-
| 0
| 0
| Ignored
| Unchanged
| 0
| No Action
|-
| 1
| 0
| Ignored
| 0
| 0
| Read 0
|-
| 1
| 0
| Ignored
| 1
| 1
| Read 1
|-
| 0
| 1
| 1
| 1
| 0
| Write 1
|-
| 0
| 1
| 0
| 0
| 0
| Write 0
|-
| 1
| 1
| 1
| 1
| 1
| Read & Write 1
|-
| 1
| 1
| 0
| 0
| 0
| Read & Write 0
|}<br />

When both read and write are turned on, the device will act as a power sensor for the input. This could be a problem if the input and output are linked.

One point of concern is that the unit may not contain sufficient water to trigger the plate because the amount of water in the square above the hatch may not be 7 when it closes.

The plate could be set to trigger at a lower threshold, which would slightly slow down response time, or a door could be used instead of a hatch and the unit extended by one tile to provide space for the drain. This would have the downside of destroying some water after every write operation.

Another method is to use another pump to drain the water from the holding tile. This pump will only activate when W is 1 and I is 0.

==Computer registers==

The dwarven computer prototype is going to have an 8-bit instruction length, a 3-bit operon and a 5-bit address space. Why? The best reason for this is that other designs of Very Simple Computers (VSC) on the Internet are also only 8-bit and I am basing the design of the prototype dwarven computer off several of them. Naturally a bigger computer is better in many ways but the current goal is to produce an operational one. Now its not clear to me why a VSC shouldn't be smaller, but I suppose it doesn't matter.

8-bit words need 8-bit registers. Fortunately this just means stacking 8 memory units up and making sure they receive the same read/write signals.

[[image:memreg.png|Schematic of an 8-bit register]]

The lines in the diagram don't actually represent physical connections but imaginary ones. After all, the write signal must be sent remotely.

Now we consider the most compact designs for such an array. Let us assume that the output signals will be sent remotely. For clarity, the arrays ought to be rectangular.

##### ##### ##### ##### ##### ##### ##### #####
#H#.# #H#.# #H#.# #H#.# #H#.# #H#.# #H#.# #H#.#
#^#^# #^#^# #^#^# #^#^# #^#^# #^#^# #^#^# #^#^#
#%#%# #%#%# #%#%# #%#%# #%#%# #%#%# #%#%# #%#%#
W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o
I~`~RPI~`~RPI~`~RPI~`~RPI~`~RPI~`~RPI~`~RPI~`~R
P`````````````````````````````````````````````P
Note that the O is omitted since it was a placeholder for the output device.

Not all registers in the computer are 8 bit registers. For example the memory address register is 5 bits.

==Memory unit==

Since there are only 5 bits of address space, I only need 256 memory cells. It should be fine if I don't use complicated column and row addressing schemes. I shall simply have 32 8-bit registers sticking somewhere. In order for the memory unit to work, I need a decoder to change the 5-bit address into 32 outputs. This will enable the memory unit to read and write from any register. I guess this makes it random access memory.

===Decoder===

This type of decoder is called an n to 2^n decoder, since it converts n inputs into 2^n outputs, in this case 5 to 32(2^5).

To illustrate the design for this unit, let us consider a simpler example where n=2. There will be 2 binary inputs which will be converted into 4 unique outputs, 1 for each memory address.

Here is the truth table for the operation:

{| class="wikitable" border=1 style="text-align:center" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|-
!width="40"|2^0 (1)
!width="40"|2^1 (2)
!width="40"|O0
!width="40"|O1
!width="40"|O2
!width="40"|O3
|-
| 0
| 0
| 1
| 0
| 0
| 0
|-
| 1
| 0
| 0
| 1
| 0
| 0
|-
| 0
| 1
| 0
| 0
| 1
| 0
|-
| 1
| 1
| 0
| 0
| 0
| 1
|}<br />

Now let us examine the implementation into the dwarfputer. Remember that gear assemblies are toggleable. I can implement a NOT operation by simply reversing the default state of a triggered gear (which is OFF in this system).

Let us represent the 2^0 gear as A when it is default OFF and as a when it is default ON, and represent the 2^1 gear as B and b. O0 to O3 represent output devices.

P P P P
a A a A
b b B B
O0 O1 O2 O3

This is the easiest to understand implementation. Looking at O0, we see that O0 is powered only when a and b are active. This corresponds to the state when 2^0 and 2^1 are both 0. Examining all the devices reveals that this arrangement obeys the truth table detailed above. Further examination would reveal that this arrangement also follows a pattern. Basically, the full set of columns represent every single possible combination of a, A, b, and B. Therefore we can easily see how to expand this system to n=5.

However, this implementation is not the most efficient one. I can also arrange the gears like so:

O3A AO1
BPb
O2a aO0

This arrangement uses 7 gears while the first arrangement uses 12 gears (including power gears). I put B and b closest to the power supply to obtain an orderly arrangement of O0 to O3 although this isn't strictly necessary.

Schematically this arrangement looks like this:

[[Image:2nscheme.png|Schematic of a 2 to 4 decoder]]

Which is just some sort of tree diagram. I can easily expand this to n=5 which is what I want.

[[Image:5nscheme.png|Schematic of a 5 to 32 decoder]]

I drew this diagram in rectangular form so that I can better see how to construct the decoder. The outputs of the decoder will be in a 4x8 grid. Since the output units are longer in one direction than the other, I will align their long axis along the short axis of the diagram. It is probably best to place all the mechanisms for the decoder in the level above the outputs.

===Memory unit registers===

The registers in the memory unit need some modification to work correctly. Only the register indicated in the memory address register ought to respond to read write signals. Therefore each of the 32 registers needs to be connected to one of the outputs from the decoder.

In this example, the register only responds when 00000 is in the memory address register.

##### ##### ##### ##### ##### ##### ##### #####
#H#.# #H#.# #H#.# #H#.# #H#.# #H#.# #H#.# #H#.#
#^#^# #^#^# #^#^# #^#^# #^#^# #^#^# #^#^# #^#^#
#%#%# #%#%# #%#%# #%#%# #%#%# #%#%# #%#%# #%#%#
W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o W%`%o
I~`~RCI~`~RCI~`~RCI~`~RCI~`~RCI~`~RCI~`~RCI~`~R
CP```P`````P`````P`````P`````P`````P`````P```PC

C in this diagram represents the output O0. I believe this is called the chip select signal in real computers.

It may be possible to wire the decoder directly to the power supply of the memory, which would remove the need for an output device.

===Memory unit architecture===

Right, I based the design of the memory unit off a java applet simulator I found on the Internet.

[[Image:Memarchi.png|Schematic of the memory unit's architecture]]

What this diagram is supposed to illustrate is that ALL the memory cells are linked to respond to the same read-out signal and the same write-in signal. Similarly, all the corresponding cells respond to same input, and all output to the same place. However, they will do none of these things unless they get a signal from the decoder, and only one register will get the signal as indicated in the memory address register.

Now the input and output buffers shown here may not be in the final blueprints, depending on the design of the rest of the computer.

==Machine language design==

The machine language is the set of instructions the computer will be able to execute. What these instructions are will define the design of the remaining components. For example, the Arithmetic Logic Unit needs to be able to perform the various operations listed in these instructions.

Ideally this language should be complete, that is, any function can be simulated as a combination of these instructions. I also want to be as simple as possible, to minimize the complexity of the ALU. It is worth restating that I am basing the overall design for the computer on a design for a VSC off the Internet.

Since the opcode for this computer is 3-bits long, there can only be 8 instructions.

{| class="wikitable" border=1 style="text-align:center" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|-
!Opcode
!Function
!Operand
|-
| 000
| Load Accumulator from memory (indirectly)
| Memory Address
|-
| 001
| Store Accumulator to memory
| Memory Address
|-
| 010
| Add
| Memory Address
|-
| 011
| Subtract
| Memory Address
|-
| 100
| Jump to address if accumulator is not negative
| Memory Address
|-
| 101
| Binary shift left (*2) (input 0 as LSB)
| Memory Address
|-
| 110
| Binary shift right (/2) (retain MSB)
| Memory Address
|-
| 111
| Halt
| None
|}<br />

==Arithmetic Logic Unit (ALU)==

Now I know that the ALU needs to be able to perform 4 functions: Add, subtract, shift left and shift right. The unit needs to do one of these functions based on one of 4 input signals it may receive.

The ALU will receive 2 8-bit inputs and produce 1 8-bit output. It will require 3 systems, the adder-subtractor, bitshift left and bitshift right. These systems would be integrated to form the ALU.

===Half adder===

While there are existing dwarven adder designs out there, they do not come with schematics detailing the links between their components. Therefore I feel the need to design from scratch.

A simple half adder would take 2 inputs, and produce an output and an overflow output called a carry.

{| class="wikitable" border=1 style="text-align:center" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|-
!width="40"|A
!width="40"|B
!width="40"|C
!width="40"|O
|-
| 0
| 0
| 0
| 0
|-
| 1
| 0
| 0
| 1
|-
| 0
| 1
| 0
| 1
|-
| 1
| 1
| 1
| 0
|}<br />

Carry out circuit C==ABP

aBP
Output circuit O==o
bAP

C===A
Combined circuit aBP
O==obA

This schematic shows a dwarven half adder that obeys the above truth table. In this diagram, the o represents a normal gear assembly and = represents axles. This design rests on the assumption that axles do not receive power except from their end tiles. It also takes advantage of the assumption that a matched pair of gears will not transmit information across their connection (here it is the B and b gear)

I believe this design uses the minimum number of gear assemblies, although I am not sure.

===Full adder===

In order for an adder to work properly, it must also receive the carry bit in addition to the 2 inputs. Ultimately, even the first adder in the final adder-subtracter must be able to receive a carry bit to operate successfully, which is why I didn't draw up a full plan for the half adder.

{| class="wikitable" border=1 style="text-align:center" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"
|-
!width="40"|A
!width="40"|B
!C (carry in)
!O2 (carry out)
!width="40"|O1
|-
| 0
| 0
| 0
| 0
| 0
|-
| 1
| 0
| 0
| 0
| 1
|-
| 0
| 1
| 0
| 0
| 1
|-
| 1
| 1
| 0
| 1
| 0
|-
| 0
| 0
| 1
| 0
| 1
|-
| 1
| 0
| 1
| 1
| 0
|-
| 0
| 1
| 1
| 1
| 0
|-
| 1
| 1
| 1
| 1
| 1
|}<br />

PB
CAo==O2 Carry Out Circuit
oBo

o=o=o=o==O1 Output Circuit
C c c C
B b B b
A A a a
P P P P

O1 O2 Combined Circuit
oo=oo |
Cc cC oo
Bb BbBAB
PAo oaPCo

Now that looks pretty monstrous. Undoubtedly the arrangement of gears could be changed here and there depending on the exact dimensions you need the array to be, but hopefully this diagram illustrates methods that can be used to minimize the complexity of the device. Note that where there are adjacent identical gears directly connected to the power source, one of them can be replaced by an ordinary gear, which will remove a linking task for that gear.

````` oCBAP
```` ocbo
##### ``|``
#.#.#` ``ocBo
#^#^#` `ooCba Hypothetical implementation
#%#%#` `o``BP
`%`%`` ```oAC
`~`~`` ```oBo
````` `````
lvlz lvlz+1

The above diagram details a hypothetical implementation for a full adder. The ```s represent the shadow of the mechanisms above and below the level. The left power sensor produces the output signal while the right power sensor produces the carry signal to be relayed to the next adder. The total footprint of the unit is 6x9. In an array, the units can overlap one tile so the total footprint of an 8-bit adder would be 41x9. Maximum operational power draw is 131x8(1048) units of power.

===8-bit ripple-carry adder-subtracter===

[[Image:Rippleaddersubtracter.png|Schematic of an 8-bit ripple-carry adder-subtractor]]

In order to build a full 8-bit adder-subtracter, all you need to do is to stack up 8 full adders next to each other and ensure that all the gears have been linked to the appropriate plates.

Now to get the adder-subtracter to subtract, all you have to do is to link up every single A and a (or B and b) gear assembly to the pressure plate sending the subtract signal. When the signal is sent, all the gears linked to a register will toggle. This will have the effect of inverting whatever input the register is sending. Finally the signal also needs to activate the carry in gears in the first adder, which will have the effect of adding 1 to the resulting sum (difference), giving the correct answer in two's complement representation.

===Carry-look-ahead adder===

I did some research into carry-look-ahead adders to see if it was worth implementing. Carry-look-ahead adders are faster than ripple-carry adders as ripple carry adders have to wait for the carry bit to 'ripple' through the chain of adders before getting the correct result. This is most significant for users of fluid logic, as fluid logic adders need to wait n*100 steps (n being the number of bits) for the carry to ripple all the way to the end. (Floodgates and bridges have a 100 step delay before activating or deactivating)

I found that I could easily design a carry-look-ahead adder using mechanical logic that calculates the carry in bit for all bits in a single step. I would also like to point out that real carry-look-ahead adders are more complicated because they don't have teleporting switch signals.

Firstly, looking at the carry-out circuit for the full adder, I see that not only can it exist independently from the sum circuit, the C gear is directly attached to the power source. I can take advantage of this by separating the carry bit calculation circuits from the adder and attaching them to each other like so.

[[Image:Carrycircuit.png|Schematic of a carry calculation circuit for a carry-look-ahead adder]]

Then for the summing part of the adder, I simply build only the output circuit, which I can now simplify like this

O1 Output Circuit
oo=oo
Cc cC
Bb Bb
oAPao

Or I can make it long instead of square so that it will tile better with the output buffers.

O1
|
oBCoCbo
AbcocBa
P P

I could construct these directly above the output buffers and they would all tile a lot better. Not only that, it fits almost perfectly within the footprint of a bank of output buffers. There is also no cost of increased complexity, only spatial separation between the summation unit and the carry unit, plus providing all the advantages of the carry-look-ahead system.

Since this system is superior in all ways to the ripple-carry system, this will be the one going into the final dwarven computer.

===Bitshifting operations===

Setting up a bitshifting operation is relatively simple. I simply wire the inputs directly into slightly different outputs as illustrated in the following diagrams (source: Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bitwise_operation#Arithmetic_shift).

[[Image:175px-Rotate right arithmetically.svg.png|Bitshift Right]]

[[Image:Rotate left logically.svg.png|Bitshift Left]]

Ideally all these operations would be linked into the same bank of output buffers in the assembled ALU, which will be the subject of the next section.

===ALU architecture===

[[Image:Aluarchi.png|Schematic of the ALU architecture]]

This diagram illustrates the various signals moving around the ALU. I decided that I ought to dragoon the ALU into incrementing the program counter as well, but I'm not sure whether that will work or not. We'll see in the later sections.

I defined the inputs from AR1 to be A since there are fewer A and a gears in the current designs and they all have to be toggled by the subtract signal. The operations listed on the right are signals generated by the control unit and they tell the ALU which operation to perform and transfer to the output buffer banks. The component critical to this function is the multiplexer.

The concept of the multiplexer is quite simple, suppose I had 2 inputs I and J, and I wanted to choose which one to pass based on signals Q and R, I would have to build something like this

PQIoJRP
|
O

Adding a multiplexer onto the output circuit would require an additional z-level if the tiling efficiency is to be maintained.

[[Image:ALUmulti.png|Schematic of a ALU multiplexer implementation]]

This diagram illustrates a hypothetical implementation of the multiplexer, as well as the bitshifting logic. I don't think I need a support axle on z+2 as it should be supported by O1.

==Bus design==

I've decided to ditch the plan for a bus, which would have been the conduit for data transfers between registers throughout the computer. Initially there were 2 methods, one had a output buffer attached to the end of the bus while the other the bus directly supplied power to the inputs of the appropriate registers.

Method 2 would not work on memory cells that used an active pump for bit-clearing. Method 1 would have worked but the output buffers had to be overwritten every step and that could cause cascading delays throughout the computer. Since this computer is relatively simple, I opted for hard wiring everything instead.

[[Image:Datatransfers.png|Schematic of the data transfers within the CPU]]

This diagram illustrates the data transfers that occur throughout the computer. The red arrows depict confirmed hard-wired connections, while the blue arrows would have been routed through a bus. I've decide AR1 is superfluous so I got rid of it. As you can see, each register has at most 2 inputs or 2 outputs going through the bus, so hardwiring is feasible.

==Timing circuit==

Before the computer can execute its instructions, it needs to perform some operations first.

#Transfer the contents of the accumulator to AR2. Dump instruction register and memory address register.<br>
#Transfer the program counter to the memory address register. Also, activate the program counter incrementation system in the ALU and transfer the results into program counter +1.<br>
#Load the data from memory at the specified address into the instruction register.<br>
#Transfer the data from program counter +1 to the program counter. Also, dump the memory address register<br>
#Load the last 5 digits of the instruction register into the memory address register. Also, dump program counter +1.<br>
#Execution (write accumulator, memory or program counter, read instruction register, memory, AR2)<br>

There needs to be a 100 step delay from the time a memory cell is written (or dumped, if it is pre-dumped) and when it is read, or it may cause cascading delays. The writing process is practically instantaneous, but 100 steps are needed before the correct result can be read if the memory was not cleared to begin with. Of course this point is entirely moot if the computer is running automatically, in which case every step will last at least 100 steps anyway and the prime consideration is to ensure that every step can be performed in 100 steps.

==Oscillator==

A typical mechanical oscillator is unsatisfactory because it will usually be sending out 2 on signals at once, one from the pressure plate the water is on and the other from the pressure plate waiting to reset.

0%%6%%0%%5%%0%%4
% %
% %
1%%0%%2%%0%%3%%0

This diagram shows a 12 step 6 signal oscillator. At the locations marked 0, there are no pressure plates. A lever operates the mechanism. When the lever is in the ON position, the #%%0 pumps activate, and when the lever is in the OFF position, the 0%%# pumps activate. The oscillator can also be fully automated by using the pressure plates themselves to replace the lever function. The oscillator's power supply also needs to be cut if a halt signal is received from the control unit.

===Oscillator link table===

#Read accumulator, write AR2, write IR, write MAR<br>
#Read PC, write MAR, activate ALU (adder select, C0=1), write PC+1<br>
#Read MEM, read MAR. activate decoder, write IR<br>
#Read PC+1, write PC, write MAR<br>
#Read IR, write MAR, write PC+1<br>
#Execution (read IR, turn on control unit)<br>

A dump operation can be performed by telling the memory register to write when its linked inputs are inactive, effectively writing 0s.

==Control unit==

The control unit can be implemented simply as a 3-8 decoder with appropriately linked pressure plates. The execute signal controlled gear assembly is located at the root of the decoder.

===Control unit link table===

:O0. Read memory, read MAR, activate decoder, write accumulator, select transfer<br>
:O1. Read accumulator, write memory, read MAR, activate decoder<br>
:O2. Read memory, read MAR, activate decoder, read AR2, Send Add signal to ALU (adder select), write accumulator<br>
:O3. Read memory, read MAR, activate decoder, read AR2, Send Subtract signal to ALU (adder select, C0=1, invert input A), write accumulator<br>
:O4. Read IR, write PC if ACC7=0<br>
:O5. Read memory, read MAR, activate decoder, Send Shift left signal to ALU (SHL select), write accumulator<br>
:O6. Read memory, read MAR, activate decoder, Send Shift right signal to ALU (SHR select), write accumulator<br>
:O7. Cut power to oscillator.<br>

==See also==

[[DF2010:Computing|Computing]]

==External links==
*[http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AdISzBuNg6ZWZGd0d2t4YjlfMjJ0ejlzc2dnaA&hl=en GoogleDocs Design Manuscript]
*[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=49641.0 Bay12 Forums thread] - Includes discussion on modifications and testing results
*[http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-8269 Map at DF Map Archive]
*[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=1929 Save File at DF File Depot]

v0.31:Aquifer

2011-12-15T01:20:53Z

Riking: /* The modding method */ added maor ======equals signs===== (seemed like another major section)

{{quality|Masterwork|15:52, 30 September 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
An '''aquifer''' is a subterranean layer of [[water|groundwater]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. Attempts to mine through the layer will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with [[water]], effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in [[loam]], and [[sand]], makes it difficult to find great quantities of [[stone]] in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

Aquifers can't be drained - the groundwater is limitless. [[stone detailing|Smoothed]] aquifer stone stops producing water. Aquifers located in [[water#Salt_Water|saltwater]] areas will produce salty water. Aquifers do not only produce water - if the incoming water is pressurized, an aquifer tile may instead absorb it. Just like with water production, this ability will not be disabled no matter how much water it absorbs.

== Where they are found ==

Aquifers are less likely to be found near and in mountains.{{verify}}

Layers which CAN contain aquifers:
*[[sandy clay loam]]
*[[silty clay loam]]
*[[loam]]
*[[sandy loam]]
*[[silt loam]]
*[[loamy sand]]
*[[silt]]
*[[sand (tan)|sand]]
*[[yellow sand]]
*[[white sand]]
*[[black sand]]
*[[red sand]]
*[[peat]]
*[[pelagic clay]]
*[[calcareous ooze]]
*[[siliceous ooze]]
*[[sandstone]]
*[[conglomerate]]
*[[puddingstone]]
Layers which CAN'T contain aquifers, despite their names suggesting otherwise:
*[[clay]]
*[[silty clay]]
*[[sandy clay]]
*[[clay loam]]
*[[siltstone]]
*[[mudstone]]

== What they do ==

Aquifers are tiles which produce water in their ''neighboring'' tiles -- north, south, east, west, and below. They do not produce water in diagonally adjacent tiles, or in the tile above them.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the downward direction, and you hit an aquifer, the aquifer tile will be revealed as damp soil or stone, and the digging job will be un-designated for that tile.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the ''upward'' direction, and you hit an aquifer from below, the aquifer tile will immediately start producing water in the stairwell.

== Dealing with aquifers ==

===Digging at a change in level===

Though an aquifer seems a daunting obstacle, it ''is'' possible to dig through it, given an ample supply of building material (rock or wood) and any unevenness in the depth of the aquifer. The basic facts:

* An aquifer layer will ''absorb'' an unlimited amount of water draining in from above.

* With an up/down stairway or channel designation, a dwarf can break through the floor of the cell ''beneath'' him. That means a dwarf can stand on top of an aquifer layer, dig an up/down stairway, and make it drain into the layer beneath it, if that layer is also an aquifer or has an open path to an aquifer layer nearby.

* A stairway may be swamped to dangerous levels with water draining in from the squares around it, but many stairways in a clump mean that the drainage to the next layer wins out.

* Constructing a wall, up/down stairway, or channel in an aquifer layer prevents any water from originating in that square. A wall prevents water from draining down into the next layer from any source, while the stairway or channel lets it come in from other squares and drain.

These points support the following method:

# Dig around at the level just above where you encountered the aquifer, placing up/down or down stairways according to your preferred city grid plan. Training up a few miners in this way will help later. Spot some points where the next level (as seen from down stairways) varies in wetness from one spot to another.
# For the following, pause the game after every square dug out and make sure the miners dig both layers at the same rate and redesignate when they cancel your plans automatically. Dig a 5x5 hollow square of up/down stairways at the change in level, going down as far as you can. The lower aquifer should accept water from the upper aquifer, allowing you to drain the upper aquifer (at least partway). Then gradually take on the area in the middle, building walls and/or staircases to fill in and stop the flow as you expand. Eventually you should get command over the source of flow, and can dig a hole in the center of the bottom-most layer surrounded by a 3x3 ring of impermeable rock.

* ''Caveat: sometimes only the top of the aquifer changes depth, but the bottom stays at the same level. In this case you will get nowhere. Sometimes the aquifer is two or more layers thick and it doesn't offset enough to let you all the way through - in this case, sometimes you can use the cave-in method to get through one layer, then use this method to get through the next. And sometimes you'll just find a hole right through when you investigate the change in level, because you're at a biome boundary and it's not aligned perfectly.

===The ore method===
On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a [[sedimentary layer]] such as sandstone, it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of ore such as magnetite. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a utility like reveal.exe. The trial and error method can be accomplished somewhat more easily by digging up/down stairs to reveal the layer underneath them without actually digging into the underlying layer. This method is more complicated with aquifers located in layers of [[conglomerate]], as large clusters of [[puddingstone]] will support the aquifer and thus cannot be used to provide a path through it.

===The magma/obsidian method===
If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. By channeling into the aquifer layer and then filling these channels with magma, it is possible to create a wall of obsidian between your working area and the [[water]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. However, changes to world generation with the last version have made this method more difficult than it once was, as it is now harder to find magma vents that extend above the aquifer level.

===The cave-in method===
If there are enough layers above the aquifer, then letting non aquifer rock fall into the aquifer layer gives an area of diggable rock. This requires at least 2 natural dry layers. If multiple aquifer layers are to be breached, things get more complicated. First [[ channel]] out the area of aquifer that will be replaced. Then dig out all connecting floors and walls to the block that will fall (build a support to hold it until you are ready for collision). A [[ burrow]] may be useful to assign unnecessary dwarves to a safe area. When everyone is clear, de-construct the support with a lever. (If you forgot to bring stone, then you may instead build a constructed floor to support it, designate it to be destroyed, and have a [[hospital]] standing ready in case the unlucky one survives.)

After the collapse, do not dig out the outer edge of the fallen rock.

This does not work with [[ wood]] walls since they deconstruct on cave-in.

If you build many rings inside one another in your top drop layer, you can breach multi-level aquifers with as little as 2 natural layers of dry soil above it. Drop the rings from the outside to the inside using constructed arms to hold the center rings in place. Once a ring drops into the water below it, pump out the water in the center and dig down another layer. When that is complete, drop the next ring and continue the process until you are through. Since you start dropping rings from the outside it is necessary to know how many levels deep the aquifer is before you begin.<br>
Tutorial for more than one Aquifier can be found here: [[User:Rhenaya/HowtoDualAquifer]]

Some might regard this method as cheating, so use it at your own risk.

'''Note:''' There is a bug that may prevent this method from working, collapsed layers may turn into the aquifer layer type that was dug out at that level. So, for example: We have three layers, layer 1 has the caving in section, and is not an aquifer. Layer 2 is a dug out layer that is also not a aquifer. And Layer 3 which is dug out and is an aquifer. Now, the bug, say layer 1's cave-in section lands on layer 3's dug out area, sometimes layer 1's caved in section may change into layer 3's soil type. Making it an aquifer too. Thus making the cave-in method impossible for that area.

====Cave-In Example====

[[File:Aquifer-Plug.png|frame|none|Note: Side View]]

*Dig stairs down to the aquifer. Dig over the aquifer layer but under your "plug". You'll need a 5x5 landmass. (Slide 2)
*Channel out the area the plug will fall into. (Slide 3)
*Leave a single floor tile on top of the plug and dig out the outer layer of your plug. The plug should be a 3x3 landmass now. The single floor tile must keep the plug from falling. (Slide 3)
*Channel out the floor tile holding up the plug. (Slides 4 & 5)
*Construct floor tiles to reach the plug and dig through the middle to get under the aquifer. (Slide 6)

===The freezing method===

If you are playing in a freezing or very cold landscape, where it snows in winter and instantly freezes water on the map, you can dig out a 3x3 hole in the ground using [[channel]]s, and make it deeper and deeper until you reach the aquifer level. Once you reach the damp rock, tunnel into it with an up/down staircase - the incoming water will freeze after a few moments. The central square of the 3x3 hole should be tunnelable ice, so you can get to the rock beneath. If there are two aquifer levels, for example, you can just make a larger initial hole, and make a smaller one for the level after.

If your fortress is in a zone that gets warm, build walls around the inside of the hole to stop the water coming in once the ice melts.

<b>Note</b>: There is a bug that may prevent this from working, sometimes ice walls don't produce an ice floor tile above them, instead leaving it as "open space" which prevents the player from digging downwards.
Simplest method is to construct a wooden (or stone, if you have any) floor and then remove it. After the floor is removed, a natural ice floor will remain.
An alternative means that will work is to set the tile 1 z-level '''ABOVE''' your missing ice floor tile as a [[pond]], and '''FILL IT'''. The first [[bucket]] of water that goes on it will create that missing ice floor tile the instant the water is dumped on it, and you will receive a cancellation message that the pond has gone away. Dezone the pond [[activity zone]], and get back to work breaching that ice. Keep in mind that you will need an '''unfrozen water source''' to use to fill your bucket. Luckily you have an aquifer, so you can just dig into it somewhere underground.

===The pump method===

The pumping method uses multiple [[screw pump|pumps]] to keep an area dry long enough to smooth or [[wall]] off the edges, stopping the flow of water. It requires no special environment or resources, other than wood and dwarves (and patience). Most commonly, a moderately sized section of the aquifer layer is channeled out and several screw pumps are built facing it. Directly behind each of the screw pumps a few tiles are channeled out to receive and dispose of the pumped water. When the pumps are activated, they should pump water faster than the aquifer can produce it, allowing masons to smooth or build walls around your future staircase. You ''will'' get job cancellations during this process, as stray 2/7's of water interrupt the building process. Just unsuspend the construction when this happens, as long a dwarf manages to touch the wall before canceling, it will move incrementally toward completion and eventually finish. Depending on the availability of screw pumps and dwarves, you may need to wall off one corner or side at a time, then move the pumps and repeat. When drilling through more than one aquifer layer, be sure to leave yourself enough room to build additional layers of pumps and water disposal channels on lower levels.

Things to consider:
* Flowing water will cause parents to drop their infants, leading to job cancellations and occasionally [[fun]].
* Mechanical [[power]] may come in handy, but dwarf power works just fine and is much more portable.
* Channels can sometimes be used in place of walls, causing water produced by by the aquifer on one level to immediately fall and be consumed by the aquifer on the level below.
* This method may take a while.
* Aquifers do not create water in diagonal tiles, but do create water in hollow tiles directly below them. Therefore, you will want to dig two z-levels below the lowest aquifer layer before continuing with your fortress.

Two [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.0 pump-based implementations] have been tested and found to meet dwarven standards of excellence. 

===The modding method===

By editing the the raws and removing the [AQUIFER] tag from all of the appropriate entries in inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt it is possible to remove all aquifers from the world. This can be done before creating a new world or after, if you find a particularly neat location ruined only by the presence of an aquifer. In order to modify an existing world, you must delete the [AQUIFER] tag from the raws in the savegame's folder.

=====Command-line (Linux)=====

cd df_linux/raw/objects/
sed -i 's/\[AQUIFER\]/(AQUIFER)/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

and generate world. To edit an already generated world, run the <code>sed</code> command in the <tt>df_linux/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects</tt> folder instead. If you want to restore the tags later, you can do it with the command:

sed -i 's/(AQUIFER)/[AQUIFER]/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

=====Text editor (All operating systems)=====

Find the files in Dwarf Fortress/raw/objects (new world) or Dwarf Fortress/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects (already saved world).

Open the three files with a text editor (e.g. Notepad). (inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt)

Use Edit->Replace, and replace [AQUIFER] with (AQUIFER). (Use 'Replace All').

To restore the tags later, do the same in reverse. (Replacing (AQUIFER) with [AQUIFER]).

===Digging with help from below===

Having made an initial hole in the aquifer, you may wish to punch another larger hole through, say for example to grow wild strawberries in the caverns or to install a skylight in hell. Or you may simply want an additional (natural stone!) staircase. Once you have access from below this is much easier than digging from above.

Locate the caverns and dig a drainage shaft of up/down stairs or downward stairs up from the caverns to the aquifer (downward stairs function as grates and are far safer than channeling). Once the drainage shaft is complete punch the shaft up through the aquifer (using up/down stairs) until you hit dry dirt. Now mine out the walls around the shaft and build constructed walls to seal the aquifer. It's even easier, if instead of mining the walls, downward stairs are dug out instead, a wall can be built directly on top of stairs and they allow the water to fall directly through, thus construction can always be started and is never suspended. Always build the walls from the highest layer down, so the dwarves aren't having water dumped on them from above.

This method can be used to create arbitrarily large (and shaped) holes. Large holes, which would be impractical to dig from above, are very easy using this technique. It's also extremely useful for digging straight shafts through "layercake" aquifers where aquifer tiles and non-aquifer tiles are intermixed.

===Going around===

If your embark site is covered by multiple biomes, there is a chance the aquifer is not present in every biome. In some maps this may be indicated by an outcropping of stone in a landscape otherwise composed of soil; in other maps the change in biome might be visible as a change in soil type or vegetation type or density. You might be able to dig down through a biome that doesn't have an aquifer, to a Z-level below the aquifer, and then (if you wish) tunnel beneath the aquifer to the previously inaccessible region.

Even if all the biomes of your site contain aquifers, they might not all be at the same Z-level. So you still might be able to dig down in one biome, reaching a Z-level beneath the aquifer in another biome.

== Benefits of aquifers ==
While annoying, aquifers can be useful for building a self-sufficient fortress, and for water-related [[megaprojects]]. Since an aquifer can absorb an infinite amount of water, it can function as a drain for anything above it. For instance, digging a pit in a lower Z level of an aquifer, then connecting it to a breached aquifer a level above through a channel dug a level above ''that'' will create a permanently flowing, compact, secure water/power source completely contained within the fortress.

Aquifers outside [[ocean]] biomes also contain fresh water. Since aquifers are almost always located close to the surface, freshwater aquifers can easily be turned into a source of infinite, secure, non-freezing drinking water for your dwarves, eliminating the need for a [[cistern]]. While both of these roles can also be filled by [[Caverns|cavern]] features, an aquifer allows you to get the same advantages without exposing yourself to potentially dangerous cavern creatures.

== External links ==

* [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.15 QuantumMenace's two-slit method] for breaching aquifers of any depth - Illustrated guide

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.31:Aquifer

2011-12-15T01:20:04Z

Riking: /* The modding method */ renamed windows to All OSes

{{quality|Masterwork|15:52, 30 September 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
An '''aquifer''' is a subterranean layer of [[water|groundwater]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. Attempts to mine through the layer will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with [[water]], effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in [[loam]], and [[sand]], makes it difficult to find great quantities of [[stone]] in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

Aquifers can't be drained - the groundwater is limitless. [[stone detailing|Smoothed]] aquifer stone stops producing water. Aquifers located in [[water#Salt_Water|saltwater]] areas will produce salty water. Aquifers do not only produce water - if the incoming water is pressurized, an aquifer tile may instead absorb it. Just like with water production, this ability will not be disabled no matter how much water it absorbs.

== Where they are found ==

Aquifers are less likely to be found near and in mountains.{{verify}}

Layers which CAN contain aquifers:
*[[sandy clay loam]]
*[[silty clay loam]]
*[[loam]]
*[[sandy loam]]
*[[silt loam]]
*[[loamy sand]]
*[[silt]]
*[[sand (tan)|sand]]
*[[yellow sand]]
*[[white sand]]
*[[black sand]]
*[[red sand]]
*[[peat]]
*[[pelagic clay]]
*[[calcareous ooze]]
*[[siliceous ooze]]
*[[sandstone]]
*[[conglomerate]]
*[[puddingstone]]
Layers which CAN'T contain aquifers, despite their names suggesting otherwise:
*[[clay]]
*[[silty clay]]
*[[sandy clay]]
*[[clay loam]]
*[[siltstone]]
*[[mudstone]]

== What they do ==

Aquifers are tiles which produce water in their ''neighboring'' tiles -- north, south, east, west, and below. They do not produce water in diagonally adjacent tiles, or in the tile above them.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the downward direction, and you hit an aquifer, the aquifer tile will be revealed as damp soil or stone, and the digging job will be un-designated for that tile.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the ''upward'' direction, and you hit an aquifer from below, the aquifer tile will immediately start producing water in the stairwell.

== Dealing with aquifers ==

===Digging at a change in level===

Though an aquifer seems a daunting obstacle, it ''is'' possible to dig through it, given an ample supply of building material (rock or wood) and any unevenness in the depth of the aquifer. The basic facts:

* An aquifer layer will ''absorb'' an unlimited amount of water draining in from above.

* With an up/down stairway or channel designation, a dwarf can break through the floor of the cell ''beneath'' him. That means a dwarf can stand on top of an aquifer layer, dig an up/down stairway, and make it drain into the layer beneath it, if that layer is also an aquifer or has an open path to an aquifer layer nearby.

* A stairway may be swamped to dangerous levels with water draining in from the squares around it, but many stairways in a clump mean that the drainage to the next layer wins out.

* Constructing a wall, up/down stairway, or channel in an aquifer layer prevents any water from originating in that square. A wall prevents water from draining down into the next layer from any source, while the stairway or channel lets it come in from other squares and drain.

These points support the following method:

# Dig around at the level just above where you encountered the aquifer, placing up/down or down stairways according to your preferred city grid plan. Training up a few miners in this way will help later. Spot some points where the next level (as seen from down stairways) varies in wetness from one spot to another.
# For the following, pause the game after every square dug out and make sure the miners dig both layers at the same rate and redesignate when they cancel your plans automatically. Dig a 5x5 hollow square of up/down stairways at the change in level, going down as far as you can. The lower aquifer should accept water from the upper aquifer, allowing you to drain the upper aquifer (at least partway). Then gradually take on the area in the middle, building walls and/or staircases to fill in and stop the flow as you expand. Eventually you should get command over the source of flow, and can dig a hole in the center of the bottom-most layer surrounded by a 3x3 ring of impermeable rock.

* ''Caveat: sometimes only the top of the aquifer changes depth, but the bottom stays at the same level. In this case you will get nowhere. Sometimes the aquifer is two or more layers thick and it doesn't offset enough to let you all the way through - in this case, sometimes you can use the cave-in method to get through one layer, then use this method to get through the next. And sometimes you'll just find a hole right through when you investigate the change in level, because you're at a biome boundary and it's not aligned perfectly.

===The ore method===
On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a [[sedimentary layer]] such as sandstone, it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of ore such as magnetite. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a utility like reveal.exe. The trial and error method can be accomplished somewhat more easily by digging up/down stairs to reveal the layer underneath them without actually digging into the underlying layer. This method is more complicated with aquifers located in layers of [[conglomerate]], as large clusters of [[puddingstone]] will support the aquifer and thus cannot be used to provide a path through it.

===The magma/obsidian method===
If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. By channeling into the aquifer layer and then filling these channels with magma, it is possible to create a wall of obsidian between your working area and the [[water]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. However, changes to world generation with the last version have made this method more difficult than it once was, as it is now harder to find magma vents that extend above the aquifer level.

===The cave-in method===
If there are enough layers above the aquifer, then letting non aquifer rock fall into the aquifer layer gives an area of diggable rock. This requires at least 2 natural dry layers. If multiple aquifer layers are to be breached, things get more complicated. First [[ channel]] out the area of aquifer that will be replaced. Then dig out all connecting floors and walls to the block that will fall (build a support to hold it until you are ready for collision). A [[ burrow]] may be useful to assign unnecessary dwarves to a safe area. When everyone is clear, de-construct the support with a lever. (If you forgot to bring stone, then you may instead build a constructed floor to support it, designate it to be destroyed, and have a [[hospital]] standing ready in case the unlucky one survives.)

After the collapse, do not dig out the outer edge of the fallen rock.

This does not work with [[ wood]] walls since they deconstruct on cave-in.

If you build many rings inside one another in your top drop layer, you can breach multi-level aquifers with as little as 2 natural layers of dry soil above it. Drop the rings from the outside to the inside using constructed arms to hold the center rings in place. Once a ring drops into the water below it, pump out the water in the center and dig down another layer. When that is complete, drop the next ring and continue the process until you are through. Since you start dropping rings from the outside it is necessary to know how many levels deep the aquifer is before you begin.<br>
Tutorial for more than one Aquifier can be found here: [[User:Rhenaya/HowtoDualAquifer]]

Some might regard this method as cheating, so use it at your own risk.

'''Note:''' There is a bug that may prevent this method from working, collapsed layers may turn into the aquifer layer type that was dug out at that level. So, for example: We have three layers, layer 1 has the caving in section, and is not an aquifer. Layer 2 is a dug out layer that is also not a aquifer. And Layer 3 which is dug out and is an aquifer. Now, the bug, say layer 1's cave-in section lands on layer 3's dug out area, sometimes layer 1's caved in section may change into layer 3's soil type. Making it an aquifer too. Thus making the cave-in method impossible for that area.

====Cave-In Example====

[[File:Aquifer-Plug.png|frame|none|Note: Side View]]

*Dig stairs down to the aquifer. Dig over the aquifer layer but under your "plug". You'll need a 5x5 landmass. (Slide 2)
*Channel out the area the plug will fall into. (Slide 3)
*Leave a single floor tile on top of the plug and dig out the outer layer of your plug. The plug should be a 3x3 landmass now. The single floor tile must keep the plug from falling. (Slide 3)
*Channel out the floor tile holding up the plug. (Slides 4 & 5)
*Construct floor tiles to reach the plug and dig through the middle to get under the aquifer. (Slide 6)

===The freezing method===

If you are playing in a freezing or very cold landscape, where it snows in winter and instantly freezes water on the map, you can dig out a 3x3 hole in the ground using [[channel]]s, and make it deeper and deeper until you reach the aquifer level. Once you reach the damp rock, tunnel into it with an up/down staircase - the incoming water will freeze after a few moments. The central square of the 3x3 hole should be tunnelable ice, so you can get to the rock beneath. If there are two aquifer levels, for example, you can just make a larger initial hole, and make a smaller one for the level after.

If your fortress is in a zone that gets warm, build walls around the inside of the hole to stop the water coming in once the ice melts.

<b>Note</b>: There is a bug that may prevent this from working, sometimes ice walls don't produce an ice floor tile above them, instead leaving it as "open space" which prevents the player from digging downwards.
Simplest method is to construct a wooden (or stone, if you have any) floor and then remove it. After the floor is removed, a natural ice floor will remain.
An alternative means that will work is to set the tile 1 z-level '''ABOVE''' your missing ice floor tile as a [[pond]], and '''FILL IT'''. The first [[bucket]] of water that goes on it will create that missing ice floor tile the instant the water is dumped on it, and you will receive a cancellation message that the pond has gone away. Dezone the pond [[activity zone]], and get back to work breaching that ice. Keep in mind that you will need an '''unfrozen water source''' to use to fill your bucket. Luckily you have an aquifer, so you can just dig into it somewhere underground.

===The pump method===

The pumping method uses multiple [[screw pump|pumps]] to keep an area dry long enough to smooth or [[wall]] off the edges, stopping the flow of water. It requires no special environment or resources, other than wood and dwarves (and patience). Most commonly, a moderately sized section of the aquifer layer is channeled out and several screw pumps are built facing it. Directly behind each of the screw pumps a few tiles are channeled out to receive and dispose of the pumped water. When the pumps are activated, they should pump water faster than the aquifer can produce it, allowing masons to smooth or build walls around your future staircase. You ''will'' get job cancellations during this process, as stray 2/7's of water interrupt the building process. Just unsuspend the construction when this happens, as long a dwarf manages to touch the wall before canceling, it will move incrementally toward completion and eventually finish. Depending on the availability of screw pumps and dwarves, you may need to wall off one corner or side at a time, then move the pumps and repeat. When drilling through more than one aquifer layer, be sure to leave yourself enough room to build additional layers of pumps and water disposal channels on lower levels.

Things to consider:
* Flowing water will cause parents to drop their infants, leading to job cancellations and occasionally [[fun]].
* Mechanical [[power]] may come in handy, but dwarf power works just fine and is much more portable.
* Channels can sometimes be used in place of walls, causing water produced by by the aquifer on one level to immediately fall and be consumed by the aquifer on the level below.
* This method may take a while.
* Aquifers do not create water in diagonal tiles, but do create water in hollow tiles directly below them. Therefore, you will want to dig two z-levels below the lowest aquifer layer before continuing with your fortress.

Two [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.0 pump-based implementations] have been tested and found to meet dwarven standards of excellence. 

===The modding method===

By editing the the raws and removing the [AQUIFER] tag from all of the appropriate entries in inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt it is possible to remove all aquifers from the world. This can be done before creating a new world or after, if you find a particularly neat location ruined only by the presence of an aquifer. In order to modify an existing world, you must delete the [AQUIFER] tag from the raws in the savegame's folder.

====Command-line (Linux)====

cd df_linux/raw/objects/
sed -i 's/\[AQUIFER\]/(AQUIFER)/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

and generate world. To edit an already generated world, run the <code>sed</code> command in the <tt>df_linux/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects</tt> folder instead. If you want to restore the tags later, you can do it with the command:

sed -i 's/(AQUIFER)/[AQUIFER]/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

====Text editor (All operating systems)====

Find the files in Dwarf Fortress/raw/objects (new world) or Dwarf Fortress/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects (already saved world).

Open the three files with a text editor (e.g. Notepad). (inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt)

Use Edit->Replace, and replace [AQUIFER] with (AQUIFER). (Use 'Replace All').

To restore the tags later, do the same in reverse. (Replacing (AQUIFER) with [AQUIFER]).

===Digging with help from below===

Having made an initial hole in the aquifer, you may wish to punch another larger hole through, say for example to grow wild strawberries in the caverns or to install a skylight in hell. Or you may simply want an additional (natural stone!) staircase. Once you have access from below this is much easier than digging from above.

Locate the caverns and dig a drainage shaft of up/down stairs or downward stairs up from the caverns to the aquifer (downward stairs function as grates and are far safer than channeling). Once the drainage shaft is complete punch the shaft up through the aquifer (using up/down stairs) until you hit dry dirt. Now mine out the walls around the shaft and build constructed walls to seal the aquifer. It's even easier, if instead of mining the walls, downward stairs are dug out instead, a wall can be built directly on top of stairs and they allow the water to fall directly through, thus construction can always be started and is never suspended. Always build the walls from the highest layer down, so the dwarves aren't having water dumped on them from above.

This method can be used to create arbitrarily large (and shaped) holes. Large holes, which would be impractical to dig from above, are very easy using this technique. It's also extremely useful for digging straight shafts through "layercake" aquifers where aquifer tiles and non-aquifer tiles are intermixed.

===Going around===

If your embark site is covered by multiple biomes, there is a chance the aquifer is not present in every biome. In some maps this may be indicated by an outcropping of stone in a landscape otherwise composed of soil; in other maps the change in biome might be visible as a change in soil type or vegetation type or density. You might be able to dig down through a biome that doesn't have an aquifer, to a Z-level below the aquifer, and then (if you wish) tunnel beneath the aquifer to the previously inaccessible region.

Even if all the biomes of your site contain aquifers, they might not all be at the same Z-level. So you still might be able to dig down in one biome, reaching a Z-level beneath the aquifer in another biome.

== Benefits of aquifers ==
While annoying, aquifers can be useful for building a self-sufficient fortress, and for water-related [[megaprojects]]. Since an aquifer can absorb an infinite amount of water, it can function as a drain for anything above it. For instance, digging a pit in a lower Z level of an aquifer, then connecting it to a breached aquifer a level above through a channel dug a level above ''that'' will create a permanently flowing, compact, secure water/power source completely contained within the fortress.

Aquifers outside [[ocean]] biomes also contain fresh water. Since aquifers are almost always located close to the surface, freshwater aquifers can easily be turned into a source of infinite, secure, non-freezing drinking water for your dwarves, eliminating the need for a [[cistern]]. While both of these roles can also be filled by [[Caverns|cavern]] features, an aquifer allows you to get the same advantages without exposing yourself to potentially dangerous cavern creatures.

== External links ==

* [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.15 QuantumMenace's two-slit method] for breaching aquifers of any depth - Illustrated guide

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

User:Rhenaya/HowtoDualAquifer

2011-12-15T01:17:01Z

Riking: added threads' overview image

Note: This Tutorial was written for 40d, but it still works with [[DF2010]].<br />
<br />
How to break through two layers of [[cv:aquifer|aquifer]] with [[cv:cave-in|caveins]].<br />
Forum Thread: http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=31651.0<br />

===Overview Image===
Click here for image: [http://ghoulsblade.schattenkind.net/wiki/images/c/c6/Aquifier_cavein_2level.jpg]


===In-Game Snapshots===

Intro: http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-4852-steelmarket<br />
just embarked and made two buildings for food and sleeping<br />
<br />
Part 1: http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-4853-steelmarket<br />
the first Cavein is ready to go off<br />

Movie Part 1-2: http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-1138-howtoaquifiercavein<br />
pull the lever! i am sry for the real long responding time as you see on my fps, this was really shorter then i did it ^^<br />
<br />
Part 2: http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-4854-steelmarket<br />
the aftermath ^^<br />
<br />
Part 3: http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-4855-steelmarket<br />
and the second cave in is ready to go off!<br />
<br />
Movie Part 3-4: http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-1139-howtoaquifiercavein2<br />
again some lever action<br />
<br />
Part 4: http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-4856-steelmarket<br />
the cave in is done<br />
<br />
Final: http://mkv25.net/dfma/map-4857-steelmarket<br />
after the clean up.. stone! dwarven orgasm.. well right after booze<br />

v0.31:Cave-in

2011-12-13T15:26:46Z

Riking: added magma piston to cavein page

{{quality|Fine|21:06, 6 October 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
:''A section of the cavern has collapsed!''

A '''cave-in''' is when walls, floors, and objects plummet downwards to lower [[Z-axis|Z-levels]] under the influence of [[gravity]]. A cave-in will occur if constructions or ground tiles are detached from all support (bridges do not support constructions). Since it is only a placeholder, the system is highly unrealistic—you can hold up a giant megafortress by a slender pillar of soap. [[Main:Toady One|Toady One]] has stated he intends to implement more realistic cave-ins in future versions.

Cave-ins can be disabled through the [[Technical tricks|init]] file, by changing [CAVEINS:YES] to [CAVEINS:NO].

== How cave-ins work ==

Any ''disconnected'' [[construction]] or section of [[rock]] or [[soil]] will cave in. The game checks for connections along the X, Y, and Z axes (that's left/right, up/down, and above/below). Any construction, even [[Stair]]s (natural or constructed), and [[support]]s (naturally) provide support/connections. '''Diagonal connections and [[bridge]]s do not.'''

Note that supports and fortifications, but '''not''' [[Main:statue|statue]]s, create an invisible floor on the level above them. No dwarf can enter the invisible floor, but it will hold an area attached to the floor tiles in four directions alongside it or the constructed/natural wall above it.

== Results of a cave-in ==

* Any [[creature]] caught directly underneath (on the same tile underneath) a cave-in is killed, the only exception being [[Ghost]]s.
* Any item caught under falling natural walls is destroyed completely. Natural floors and constructed walls and floors have a chance of destroying items.{{verify}}
* Anything standing on the area that caves in falls and may get away with being stunned. The fall victim has a chance of being unable to walk away, somewhat proportional to the distance fallen but not set in stone. <s>No</s> Pun intended.
* A large amount of dust is generated. Any creature caught by the dust from the collapse is knocked [[unconscious]] and can be thrown a few tiles, which may cause them to fall off, say, a narrow bridge fifty z-levels above the ground. Dwarves will receive an unhappy thought from choking on dust clouds (which won't matter if they're dead).
* All [[building]]s and non-wall [[construction]]s under the falling area are destroyed. Buildings above the cave-in will deconstruct if they are no longer supported.
* Natural terrain will remain intact during the cave-in; the only effect is they are revealed. {{verify}}
* Constructions will deconstruct when they collide with solid terrain.
* Any terrain crashes through multiple [[floor]]s, and stops only upon reaching solid ground, a constructed wall, or a support. Natural terrain piles up and constructions deconstruct.
* Mined stairs and [[ramp]]s will settle like unmined rock; Stairs that fall down onto previously empty [[floor]]s will reveal the level below. If there's rock or a floor above them, it'll cover the stairs.
* Anything falling into a fluid sinks to the bottom. Therefore, it is not a good idea to punch a skylight into your meeting area if you forgot that e.g. your [[gem]] pile was directly below and you had a [[magma]] tube three Z levels afterwards... you get the idea.
* Any water displaced by falling natural walls is not destroyed, but displaced upwards(!) to directly on top of the fallen walls.
* Soil walls tend to turn into a different soil type when they fall into a stone layer.
* [[Magma mist]] will be generated in all tiles of magma that were in the path of the cave-in.
* Any mined minerals or stone in the area directly under the cave-in will be forced out from under the cave-in.

== Avoiding cave-ins ==

Do not make unconnected sections of rock.

Actually, you're quite unlikely to cause cave-ins unless you are actively trying to cause them. In which case, you'd be wondering how to avoid cave-ins that ''cause damage'' to your folks. That's simple: Add a [[support]] under the stone mass, and link it to a distant [[lever]]. When you're done, hide everyone, pull the lever and watch the fireworks. If you're feeling lazier, use statues to keep dwarves off the wrong squares. Provided they move directly away from the cave-in area, the dust may not catch them - and they don't blunder off edges and die unless the dust catches them.

One of the more common accidental cave-ins results when you're taking out the floor in a checker-pattern (dwarves [[channel]]ing may sometimes tend to make this mistake) and the area below isn't supported, resulting in a situation like the diagram below:

Floor -1
▒▒▒▒▒▒
▒ ▒
▒ X +▒ <-- The X is a floor tile. It's not attached, so it will fall down.
▒ +>▒
▒ ▒
▒▒▒▒▒▒

Floor -2
▒▒▒▒▒▒
▒....▒
▒...▒▒ <-- Causing this area to receive a cave-in flow and knocking out any dwarves in its reach.
▒...<▒
▒....▒
▒▒▒▒▒▒

Another thing to watch out for is if you want to dig away a hill above ground, to make room for your fancy overground fort. You may dig away the hill on one level, and then have a huge platform of "floor" on the z-level above that falls on your [[miner]] if they get disconnected from the ground. Easy thing to miss the first time you do it.

The solution here is to dig ramps instead, since these take away both the [[soil]] on the level you are digging on and the floor on the level above. This is not foolproof, however, as [[tree]]s will prevent the floor it's on from being removed, resulting a free-hanging floor when you carve the ramp around it. In addition, ramps do not provide support for other tiles on the higher z-level; depending upon the order they are constructed, cave-ins may still occur.

== Using cave-ins ==
Intentional cave-ins serve several purposes:
* '''Defense'''
*: Use cave-ins to block off water approaches to underground cavern levels. Combined with walls higher up, a cavern can (with great effort) be rendered completely safe from all intruding vermin.<sup>1</sup>
* '''Death'''
*: Since a cave-in kills all [[creatures]] instantly, it can provide a [[Unfortunate accident|convenient]] or amusing way to off a group of creatures. This is also one of the most effective ways of dealing with [[titan]]s and [[forgotten beast]]s with dangerous [[syndrome]]s, especially airborne contaminants (deadly dust/vapors) and poisonous blood. Also, it's a great way to 'spare' an [[Wound|'injured']] dwarf who likes 'laying' a bed all to [[Noble|himself.]]
* '''Removal of floor tiles'''
*: Causing a cave-in will destroy non-reinforced (no wall or support underneath) floor tiles directly underneath the falling terrain - this is a good way to e.g. hollow out a large area. All that's left to do is a little bit of cleanup on the edges, but look at all the channeling you save yourself!
* '''Breaking through multiple aquifer levels'''
*: Showcase with two levels: [[User:Rhenaya/HowtoDualAquifer]]
* '''Trapping [TRAPAVOID] creatures:'''
*: Since the dust from a cave-in can knock creatures unconscious, and any unconscious creature triggers a trap (including your dwarves and other friendly creatures), combine a cave-in with nearby cage traps for the capture. Note that this is only useful for kobolds and gremlins, as all other creatures which avoid traps are also immune to being knocked unconscious.
* '''Moving Water / Magma faster than [[Pump Stack]]s'''
*: Main article: [[Magma Piston]]

=== Caving-in the toplevel/terrain from inside ===

You can cause terrain above you to cave in without going outside by first mining up stairs below the "borderline" you want to channel, channel the tiles above them, and removing the stairs afterwards.
The tiles above the up stairs can be mined from below while standing on the stair, so you don't have to go outside. Ramps would also work for that alone, but the ramps would allow enemies to enter, whereas the up-stairs alone do not allow passage to above as there is no corresponding down-stair above them.

<sup>1</sup>Not literal vermin, those won't be blocked.

{{Category|Physics}}

{{buildings}}

D for dwarf

2011-12-12T04:44:52Z

Riking: Redirected page to Category:D for Dwarf

#REDIRECT [[Category:D for Dwarf]]

v0.31:Pond

2011-12-12T02:44:50Z

Riking: edited to cv: and section

#REDIRECT [[cv:Activity zone#Pit/Pond]]

Cage trap

2011-12-11T23:00:06Z

Riking: changed to cv: so that section works

#REDIRECT [[cv:Trap#Cage_Trap]]

Options

2011-12-11T22:04:20Z

Riking: Redirected page to DF2010:Init.txt

#REDIRECT [[cv:Init.txt]]

v0.31 Talk:Count consort

2011-12-07T06:05:51Z

Riking: forgot sig

Why has this page been deleted from 40d? Expected explanation. [[User:Riking|Riking]] 06:05, 7 December 2011 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Count consort

2011-12-07T06:05:37Z

Riking: Created page with "Why has this page been deleted from 40d? Expected explanation."

Why has this page been deleted from 40d? Expected explanation.

Mass

2011-12-07T00:23:36Z

Riking: Redirected page to DF2010:Weight

#REDIRECT [[cv:Weight]]

v0.31:Utilities

2011-11-27T22:48:28Z

Riking: /* PerfectWorldDF */

{{Quality|Exceptional}}{{av}}
Please only list utilities that are known to work with the newest version here.

:''You may also be like to see the [[Tileset repository]] or [[Graphics set repository]].''

Here are third party applications useful for Dwarf Fortress players and modders.
__TOC__

==Dwarf Fortress filesharing services==

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/ Dwarf Fortress File Depot] ===
The Dwarf Fortress File Upload Service - an excellent place to store mods, community games, tilesets and other files. Courtesy of [[User:Janus|Janus]]; for files related to Dwarf Fortress only.

=== [http://mkv25.net/dfma/ DF Map Archive] ===

* http://mkv25.net/dfma/

The Dwarf Fortress Map Archive is a large collection of user-submitted maps and a nice flash viewer for perusing them.
Maps are uploaded, stored, and downloaded in a special compressed format created by the DF Map Compressor (see below).

Read more about the [[User:Markavian/DF_Map_Archive|DF Map Archive]] on [[User:Markavian|Markavian]]'s User page.

=== DF Map Compressor ===

*[http://shadowlord13.googlepages.com/dfmap-index.html SL's DF Map Compressor - Website] (currently not accessible)
*Download from [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=997 DF File Depot]

The DF Map Compressor encodes multiple bitmaps exported from Dwarf Fortress into a single, very compressed, .fdf-map file, and functions as a viewer for this format. It can also export the maps to PNG format.

The .fdf-map file can then be shared with your friends by uploading to the [http://mkv25.net/dfma/ DF Map Archive] that features an online viewer (written in Flash).

The map compressor was created by Shadowlord in May 2007. The web site is currently not accessible. Extract from the website :
<blockquote>
"The '''DF Map Compressor''' is a program I made to encode Dwarf Fortress fortress or world map images into a much smaller format than is possible with normal image formats. Here's a quick summary of how it works: It determines the size of your tiles from your DF font file (or asks you), splits the map up into tiles, identifies duplicate tiles, writes out every unique tile image, and then writes out a list of ID#s for each tile position which points to the tile image for that tile. What it outputs is piped through the LZMA compressor (the one used in 7-zip), to compress it further. The .df-map file which it writes out is usually less than 100 KB in size. (By comparison, a PNG of the same map can exceed 2 megabytes, depending on how well you compress it, whether you change the color depth, and whether you are using a graphical tileset or detailed font)."
</blockquote>

There is a little bit of information at the [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=997 DF File Depot] page, where the compressor can be downloaded:
<blockquote>
"It requires either .NET 2.0 or newer (If you have Windows Vista, you already have this, if not, you might need to get it), or if you're on Linux or a Mac or other non-Windows OS, requires Mono.
* .NET 2.0: http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?familyid=0856eacb-4362-4b0d-8edd-aab15c5e04f5
* Mono: http://www.mono-project.com/"
</blockquote>

To get it working on OSX, according to [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=64174.msg1511109#msg1511109 this forum post]:
:1. [http://www.go-mono.com/mono-downloads/ download the Mono Framework] and install it. If you're on a modern Mac, you want the [http://ftp.novell.com/pub/mono/archive/2.8.1/macos-10-x86/3/MonoFramework-2.8.1_3.macos10.novell.x86.dmg latest Intel version], which requires OSX 10.5 or 10.6. [http://www.mono-project.com/OldReleases Older versions are available] but no longer supported.
:2. export your map from Dwarf Fortress (Esc -> Export Local Image)
:3. download the [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=997 DF Map Compressor from the DF File Depot].
:4. open the terminal, navigate to the DF Map Compressor folder and type:
mono DwarfFortressMapCompressor.3.3.4.exe
:5. WAIT a bit for the DF Map Compressor windows to appear (''I almost thought it had crashed, it's rather slow'')
:6. follow the on screen instructions

== 3D Visualizers ==

=== [[Utility:Stonesense|Stonesense]] ===
[[File:stonesense.jpg|208px|thumb|right|Stonesense Screenshot]]
''by Jonask, Solifuge, Kaypy and Japa''

Stonesense is a third party real-time visualizer that lets you view your Dwarf Fortress world in a classic isometric perspective.

More information is available in [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=43260.0 this forum thread].

Stonesense is now in version 2.3 Slate, supports v0.31.21 - [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/files/Stonesense_Slate_2.3.zip Download]

----
It is possible to get a quick working version of Stonesense for versions up to v0.31.21, without compiling the SVN development version (or downloading the new non SVN version), by downloading the updated [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/Memory.xml Memory.xml] and overwriting the file of the same name in the base directory of Stonesense 2.2. If (and only if), this does not work, download and replace [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/dfhack.dll dfhack.dll]. If it still doesn't work, replace [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/stonesense.exe stonesense.exe]. If it displays a problem with missing dlls, download these .dll files [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro-5.0.dll 1], [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro_dialog-5.0.dll 2], [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro_font-5.0.dll 3], [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro_image-5.0.dll 4], [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro_primitives-5.0.dll 5], [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro_ttf-5.0.dll 6] and place them in the Stonesense base directory.

=== [[Utility:Overseer|Fortress Overseer]] ===
''by thewonderidiot and sexymustard''

Overseer is a full 3D visualizer for DF2010 using the DFHack library. Its appearance is highly customizable and will be even more so in the near future. Check out its [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=63484.0 forum thread] for more details or download it from [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=3882 here].

== Music and Sounds ==

=== [[Utility:SoundSense|SoundSense]] ===

SoundSense is a tool that parses game logs and reacts to game events with sound effects, incidental music and dwarfy comments.

[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=60287 forum thread], download at [http://df.zweistein.cz/soundsense/ homepage].

== Interface tools ==

===[http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=50643.0 Dfterm2]===

Dfterm2 is a tool to run Dwarf Fortress via terminals remotely. Multiple people can connect and watch or join in.

Main article here: [[Utility:Dfterm2]].

== Game manipulation tools ==

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=645 Reveal] ===

The standalone Reveal utility is obsolete due to missing source code. [[DF2010:Utilities#DFHack|DFHack]]'s dfreveal module works like Reveal did, and has built-in undo capability.

<font size=-2>Reveal (or Reveal.exe as it is commonly referred to) is a program that runs alongside Dwarf Fortress and shows all "unexplored" or "undug" tiles of the map (in fortress mode). To reveal entire map designate the entire bottom level to be mined and then remove designation before running reveal (Not required in the latest version using the parameters below, simply start the .exe file.). Playing on revealed map might ''(read "will")'' cause some bugs (like not being able to build magma buildings or a tower-cap farm, losing all plants/trees on the map, and a lot more). '''Using Reveal has been known to corrupt saved game folders.''' and, as such, it is highly recommended to only use Reveal to preview a biome's layout and then restart without running Reveal.
</font size>

===[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=66525 Dwarf Therapist]===

Dwarf Therapist gives you an advanced GUI to manage and check dwarf job allocations, military assignments (40d), statistics (such as attributes, personality traits and happiness), plus sort dwarves by various criteria (eg. profession, migration wave, happiness, number of assigned jobs etc.) and generally manage the Dwarven Resources of your fortress in a very convenient way.

Version 0.6.10 is out (March 15, 2011). This version supports DF builds up to 0.31.25, if you have the right [http://code.google.com/p/dwarftherapist/issues/detail?id=328&can=1&q=31.25 files]..

''NOTE'': DwarfEngineer has taken over chmod's task in maintaining this MOD.

New dedicated support forum: http://code.google.com/p/dwarftherapist/

Read the full changelog here: http://code.google.com/p/dwarftherapist/source/browse/CHANGELOG.txt



Instruction for making it work with new versions here: http://code.google.com/p/dwarftherapist/wiki/MappingNewVersions This page also tends to have the new addresses within an hour or two of new releases of Dwarf Fortress.
N.B. Dwarftherapist appears to be automatically updating; 0.6.9 updated automatically from 0.31.19 to 0.31.21 on Windows SDL.

'''For Mac users''': A mac version of this utility (built by ghalidrim and compatible with the latest DF version, 31.25) is free for download at [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=4463 the DF file depot]. Beware though : this is a test build, so there may be bugs, use with care!

'''For Linux users''': There is a repository with a Linux version of DwarfTherapist available for download.
====Instructions (Ubuntu)====
Run "Software Sources" (super/windows key, type "software s" and click) [System->Administration->Software Sources]
Click Other Software, then Add
Paste: <pre>deb http://dwarftherapist.com/apt maverick universe</pre>
Click on line that says (Source Code) on the end; Remove.
Open a terminal and
<pre>sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get install dwarftherapist</pre>
To run, run "dwarftherapist" from the terminal or create a shortcut on the desktop.
When you run, a box asking for root privileges should pop up.

See http://code.google.com/p/dwarftherapist/wiki/LinuxVersion for updates.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=59056.0 Runesmith] ===
Runesmith is a Dwarf information viewing and editing tool inspired by the original Dwarf Companion. It uses the DFHack library to interface with Dwarf Fortress and Qt to provide a robust and professional looking cross-platform GUI. http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=59056.0

Version 0.1.9 is out for Windows, currently supporting 0.31.25. Since it uses DFHack, all versions of DF that DFHack supports, Runesmith supports!

* Windows: http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2538
* Linux: to follow (the windows one is reported to work fine under wine though)

"A tool that allows smithing (editing) of the digits and runes (letters) that control all life in DF. By smithing these runes, the metagods (players) can meddle with DF mortals to suit their games, be it recasting a soul into a new species body, blessing and cursing indiviudals or just to make predictions of when a mortal will attain the next degree of competence to guide them on how they should spend their limited time." - Psieye - (http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=57003.msg1324765#msg1324765)

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=58809 DFHack] ===

DFHack is a Dwarf Fortress memory access library and a set of basic tools using this library. The library is a work in progress, so things might change as more tools are written for it. Releases support versions up through 0.31.25 (as of April, 2011). Runs on both Windows and Linux.

Code and binary releases are available from the [http://github.com/peterix/dfhack/downloads Github site].

=== DFhack tools for DF 2010 ===
==== dfcleanmap ====
Cleans all the bloodsmears that get scattered all over the map.
==== dfliquids ====
Allows creating liquids (water and magma), making them flow or preventing them from flowing. Newly also allows making obsidian walls. It's a command-prompt style utility where you type in very simple commands. Replaces the older magma_create tool.

Use like this:

game: place 'k' cursor on the tile or on the upper left corner of the area to manipulate.

tool: enter 'range' in the tool and specify width and height of the rectangle.

- remove water

'w'
'0'
's-'
<ENTER>

- create obsidian wall (only works for a single tile, even if a range is specified)

'o'
'1'
's.'
<ENTER>

note that previously existing water or magma still stays at this spot.

- create magma

'm'
'7'
's+'
<ENTER>

==== dfprospector ====
Lists all available minerals on the map and how much of them there is.
==== dfreveal ====
Pauses the game and reveals the whole map, then unreveals it afterwards (unless you press Ctrl+C). Use with caution, releases [[HFS]]! Same warnings as to the original Reveal tool apply.

==== dfvdig ====
Designates a whole vein for digging. When using the '-x' option, it will dig stairs into other z-levels. Point the cursor at a vein and run this thing :)

=== [[Utility:DwarfForeman|Dwarf Foreman]] ===
Dwarf Foreman is a third party program to automatically dispatch jobs to your workers.

=== [[Utility:DwarfScript|Dwarf Script]] ===
Dwarf Script is a program and allows you to manipulate DF's memory using a script.

== Fortress layout tools ==

=== [http://sun2design.com/quickfort/ Quickfort] ===

Quickfort is an AutoHotkey-based utility for Dwarf Fortress that helps you build fortresses from "blueprint" .CSV files (comma separated values). These files are easily created and edited in an app like Excel. Most building-oriented DF commands are supported through the use of multiple .CSV files to describe the different phases of DF construction (designation, building, stockpiles, and making adjustments. Also see [[Quickfort Community Blueprints]].

=== [[User:Soundandfury/DF_Designer|DF Designer]] ===
DF Designer, by [[User:Soundandfury|soundnfury]] is a fort layout planning tool. It enables you to work out your designs before you start to build, and even see how they look in 3-D.
It's written in C with SDL, and both Linux and Windows builds are available. The source code is freely available under the GPL.
Since DF Designer does not 'talk to' Dwarf Fortress, it is version-independent. Supports exporting to Quickfort-compatible CSV files.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=55025.0 ChromaFort] ===
Chromafort allows you to convert 24-bit bitmap (.bmp) images into Quickfort-compatible CSV files.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=64723.15 DF Architect] ===
DF Architect is a short cut to using Chromafort in conjunction with DF Designer. It uses 24-bit bitmap files and directly designates them into Dwarf Fortress. It is an early release program and currently only supports digging, stairs (up, down, and both), and ramps. Its defining feature is the use of an 'index' which allows for the designer to visually connect the cursor to the image. Be careful when using this program as it had no abort or terminating ability while designating, nor will it check to see if you've uploaded correct formats.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=87731 DF Designator] ===
DF Designator helps you build fortresses from either image files or Quickfort .CSV files. It also has a user interface that allows you to assign hotkeys to blueprints and to combine blueprints in multi z-level designs. Windows, Mac and Linux versions are available.

=== [http://www.nickskvarla.com/dwarf/ Quickfort Mapping Tool] ===
Quickfort Mapping Tool is a simple to use web app for creating Quickfort blueprints graphically.

== Modding tools ==

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2068 Custom Workshop Workshop] ===
WYSIWYG editor for designing the raws for a custom workshop.
(Not all raws, just the tiles and colors) Lets you see how it will look at each stage of construction. Comes with the default 16x16 CURSES font built in, but you can load any .BMP formatted DF font you like, keeping in mind that if its bigger than 16x16 it won't fit.

Accommodates up to 32x32 workshops, not that there's any reason for such a large workshop, right?

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=1996 Uristmod] ===
A program which uses text files to automatically change/update raw files. Makes installation of mods easier. However at this time, the documentation is a little confusing and makes creating mods harder for beginners. [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=53028.0 Forum Thread]

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2088 Accent replacement tool] ===
A small application to remove accented characters from a file. A quick solution if you need the language files for a tileset that has images in place of special characters.
Alternatively, you can use this 20-line perl script: http://github.com/rofl0r/df-mayday/blob/master/charfix.pl

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=90725.0 NightS' Easy metal creator] ===
A small script in batch which lets you make new metals easily by introducing their raw values. It provides values of ingame metals as example for the most obscure values.

== Raw tile tools ==

=== [[Utility:Raw tile selector]] ===

Provides an easy to use graphical interface to select which tiles and colors should be displayed for plants, stones and small creatures.

Made to ease the job of creators of tilesets with edited raws. It will also be useful for users that dislike decisions made by tileset creators or users that could not find the edited raws for a tileset.

[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2113 Download]

Currently for windows only.

=== Raw tile merger ===
Provides an easy to use interface to change the tile and color data of raws to match the data of another set of raw files.

Made to ease the job of creators of tilesets with edited raws when new versions of df are released. The edited raws for your tileset for a new df version can now be created with a few clicks.

[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2178 Download]

== World Map / World Gen Tools ==

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=57428 PerfectWorldDF] ===
Very detailed Windows program to help create customize world gens.
<br>[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=57428 Bay 12 forum link]
<br>[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2354 Dwarf Fortress File Depot link (may be old version)]
<br>[http://dffd.wimbli.com/who.php?id=1314 Dwarf Fortress File Depot listing for the author]

It is a Windows program but can also be run under Linux with help of Mono. You can install the required Mono packages by typing this into the terminal:
sudo apt-get install libmono-system-windows-forms4.0-cil libmono-system-core4.0-cil
After installing this you should be able to double-click on the exe and it should work.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=73095.msg2261106#msg2261106 Map Maker] ===
Tool to create realistic-looking fantasy maps out ouf worldgen export. [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=4359 download link]

== Other/miscellaneous ==

=== [http://www.mindwerks.net/projects/exita/ Exita] ===
Exita is a python program that takes your DF world map exports and dump them into several different text outputs.

=== [http://winmerge.org/ WinMerge] ===
Winmerge allows you to compare the contents of folders or files. It highlights any differences between files and allows you to merge them. It is most useful for modders or users of mods. If you compare modified raw files with unmodified ones you can quickly see any differences.

=== [http://kmkeen.com/df2ttf/ df2ttf] ===
df2ttf allows you to convert any Dwarf Fortress tileset (png or bmp) into a TrueType Font equivalent. It's great for running Dwarf Fortress in ncurses mode.

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=4238 Dwarven Guidance Counselor] ===
The Dwarven Guidance Counselor is a JavaScript/HTML page that lets you input a dwarf's attributes and traits, and gives an estimate of how well that dwarf will serve in a particular job.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=59026.0 Lazy Newb Pack] ===
Everything you could possible ever need all in one handy program. It includes graphics packs, DF Hack tools, StoneSense, and much more.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=72702.0 Legends Viewer] ===
Recreates Legends Mode from exported data. Browser like navigation, including tabs, allows to easily view other people/places/entities by just clicking names in the event logs or search lists.

= Tools under development =

'''The tools listed below are under development for DF 2010, but cannot perform the task they are intended for at this time.'''

=== [[Utility:Obsidian|Obsidian]] ===
''by Skeggox''

Obsidian is a toolset for converting DF maps into a renderable scene, manipulating the result, and displaying it directly in 3D or exporting to 3rd party renderers and raytracers.

Its a modular Lua framework, using Open Scene Graph for rendering and DFHack for talking with Dwarf Fortress.

This [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=57920.0 forum thread] has more detail.

v0.31:Utilities

2011-11-27T22:47:04Z

Riking: /* Instructions (Ubuntu) */

{{Quality|Exceptional}}{{av}}
Please only list utilities that are known to work with the newest version here.

:''You may also be like to see the [[Tileset repository]] or [[Graphics set repository]].''

Here are third party applications useful for Dwarf Fortress players and modders.
__TOC__

==Dwarf Fortress filesharing services==

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/ Dwarf Fortress File Depot] ===
The Dwarf Fortress File Upload Service - an excellent place to store mods, community games, tilesets and other files. Courtesy of [[User:Janus|Janus]]; for files related to Dwarf Fortress only.

=== [http://mkv25.net/dfma/ DF Map Archive] ===

* http://mkv25.net/dfma/

The Dwarf Fortress Map Archive is a large collection of user-submitted maps and a nice flash viewer for perusing them.
Maps are uploaded, stored, and downloaded in a special compressed format created by the DF Map Compressor (see below).

Read more about the [[User:Markavian/DF_Map_Archive|DF Map Archive]] on [[User:Markavian|Markavian]]'s User page.

=== DF Map Compressor ===

*[http://shadowlord13.googlepages.com/dfmap-index.html SL's DF Map Compressor - Website] (currently not accessible)
*Download from [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=997 DF File Depot]

The DF Map Compressor encodes multiple bitmaps exported from Dwarf Fortress into a single, very compressed, .fdf-map file, and functions as a viewer for this format. It can also export the maps to PNG format.

The .fdf-map file can then be shared with your friends by uploading to the [http://mkv25.net/dfma/ DF Map Archive] that features an online viewer (written in Flash).

The map compressor was created by Shadowlord in May 2007. The web site is currently not accessible. Extract from the website :
<blockquote>
"The '''DF Map Compressor''' is a program I made to encode Dwarf Fortress fortress or world map images into a much smaller format than is possible with normal image formats. Here's a quick summary of how it works: It determines the size of your tiles from your DF font file (or asks you), splits the map up into tiles, identifies duplicate tiles, writes out every unique tile image, and then writes out a list of ID#s for each tile position which points to the tile image for that tile. What it outputs is piped through the LZMA compressor (the one used in 7-zip), to compress it further. The .df-map file which it writes out is usually less than 100 KB in size. (By comparison, a PNG of the same map can exceed 2 megabytes, depending on how well you compress it, whether you change the color depth, and whether you are using a graphical tileset or detailed font)."
</blockquote>

There is a little bit of information at the [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=997 DF File Depot] page, where the compressor can be downloaded:
<blockquote>
"It requires either .NET 2.0 or newer (If you have Windows Vista, you already have this, if not, you might need to get it), or if you're on Linux or a Mac or other non-Windows OS, requires Mono.
* .NET 2.0: http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?familyid=0856eacb-4362-4b0d-8edd-aab15c5e04f5
* Mono: http://www.mono-project.com/"
</blockquote>

To get it working on OSX, according to [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=64174.msg1511109#msg1511109 this forum post]:
:1. [http://www.go-mono.com/mono-downloads/ download the Mono Framework] and install it. If you're on a modern Mac, you want the [http://ftp.novell.com/pub/mono/archive/2.8.1/macos-10-x86/3/MonoFramework-2.8.1_3.macos10.novell.x86.dmg latest Intel version], which requires OSX 10.5 or 10.6. [http://www.mono-project.com/OldReleases Older versions are available] but no longer supported.
:2. export your map from Dwarf Fortress (Esc -> Export Local Image)
:3. download the [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=997 DF Map Compressor from the DF File Depot].
:4. open the terminal, navigate to the DF Map Compressor folder and type:
mono DwarfFortressMapCompressor.3.3.4.exe
:5. WAIT a bit for the DF Map Compressor windows to appear (''I almost thought it had crashed, it's rather slow'')
:6. follow the on screen instructions

== 3D Visualizers ==

=== [[Utility:Stonesense|Stonesense]] ===
[[File:stonesense.jpg|208px|thumb|right|Stonesense Screenshot]]
''by Jonask, Solifuge, Kaypy and Japa''

Stonesense is a third party real-time visualizer that lets you view your Dwarf Fortress world in a classic isometric perspective.

More information is available in [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=43260.0 this forum thread].

Stonesense is now in version 2.3 Slate, supports v0.31.21 - [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/files/Stonesense_Slate_2.3.zip Download]

----
It is possible to get a quick working version of Stonesense for versions up to v0.31.21, without compiling the SVN development version (or downloading the new non SVN version), by downloading the updated [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/Memory.xml Memory.xml] and overwriting the file of the same name in the base directory of Stonesense 2.2. If (and only if), this does not work, download and replace [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/dfhack.dll dfhack.dll]. If it still doesn't work, replace [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/stonesense.exe stonesense.exe]. If it displays a problem with missing dlls, download these .dll files [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro-5.0.dll 1], [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro_dialog-5.0.dll 2], [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro_font-5.0.dll 3], [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro_image-5.0.dll 4], [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro_primitives-5.0.dll 5], [http://stonesense.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/allegro_ttf-5.0.dll 6] and place them in the Stonesense base directory.

=== [[Utility:Overseer|Fortress Overseer]] ===
''by thewonderidiot and sexymustard''

Overseer is a full 3D visualizer for DF2010 using the DFHack library. Its appearance is highly customizable and will be even more so in the near future. Check out its [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=63484.0 forum thread] for more details or download it from [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=3882 here].

== Music and Sounds ==

=== [[Utility:SoundSense|SoundSense]] ===

SoundSense is a tool that parses game logs and reacts to game events with sound effects, incidental music and dwarfy comments.

[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=60287 forum thread], download at [http://df.zweistein.cz/soundsense/ homepage].

== Interface tools ==

===[http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=50643.0 Dfterm2]===

Dfterm2 is a tool to run Dwarf Fortress via terminals remotely. Multiple people can connect and watch or join in.

Main article here: [[Utility:Dfterm2]].

== Game manipulation tools ==

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=645 Reveal] ===

The standalone Reveal utility is obsolete due to missing source code. [[DF2010:Utilities#DFHack|DFHack]]'s dfreveal module works like Reveal did, and has built-in undo capability.

<font size=-2>Reveal (or Reveal.exe as it is commonly referred to) is a program that runs alongside Dwarf Fortress and shows all "unexplored" or "undug" tiles of the map (in fortress mode). To reveal entire map designate the entire bottom level to be mined and then remove designation before running reveal (Not required in the latest version using the parameters below, simply start the .exe file.). Playing on revealed map might ''(read "will")'' cause some bugs (like not being able to build magma buildings or a tower-cap farm, losing all plants/trees on the map, and a lot more). '''Using Reveal has been known to corrupt saved game folders.''' and, as such, it is highly recommended to only use Reveal to preview a biome's layout and then restart without running Reveal.
</font size>

===[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=66525 Dwarf Therapist]===

Dwarf Therapist gives you an advanced GUI to manage and check dwarf job allocations, military assignments (40d), statistics (such as attributes, personality traits and happiness), plus sort dwarves by various criteria (eg. profession, migration wave, happiness, number of assigned jobs etc.) and generally manage the Dwarven Resources of your fortress in a very convenient way.

Version 0.6.10 is out (March 15, 2011). This version supports DF builds up to 0.31.25, if you have the right [http://code.google.com/p/dwarftherapist/issues/detail?id=328&can=1&q=31.25 files]..

''NOTE'': DwarfEngineer has taken over chmod's task in maintaining this MOD.

New dedicated support forum: http://code.google.com/p/dwarftherapist/

Read the full changelog here: http://code.google.com/p/dwarftherapist/source/browse/CHANGELOG.txt



Instruction for making it work with new versions here: http://code.google.com/p/dwarftherapist/wiki/MappingNewVersions This page also tends to have the new addresses within an hour or two of new releases of Dwarf Fortress.
N.B. Dwarftherapist appears to be automatically updating; 0.6.9 updated automatically from 0.31.19 to 0.31.21 on Windows SDL.

'''For Mac users''': A mac version of this utility (built by ghalidrim and compatible with the latest DF version, 31.25) is free for download at [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=4463 the DF file depot]. Beware though : this is a test build, so there may be bugs, use with care!

'''For Linux users''': There is a repository with a Linux version of DwarfTherapist available for download.
====Instructions (Ubuntu)====
Run "Software Sources" (super/windows key, type "software s" and click) [System->Administration->Software Sources]
Click Other Software, then Add
Paste: <pre>deb http://dwarftherapist.com/apt maverick universe</pre>
Click on line that says (Source Code) on the end; Remove.
Open a terminal and
<pre>sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get install dwarftherapist</pre>
To run, run "dwarftherapist" from the terminal or create a shortcut on the desktop.
When you run, a box asking for root privileges should pop up.

See http://code.google.com/p/dwarftherapist/wiki/LinuxVersion for updates.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=59056.0 Runesmith] ===
Runesmith is a Dwarf information viewing and editing tool inspired by the original Dwarf Companion. It uses the DFHack library to interface with Dwarf Fortress and Qt to provide a robust and professional looking cross-platform GUI. http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=59056.0

Version 0.1.9 is out for Windows, currently supporting 0.31.25. Since it uses DFHack, all versions of DF that DFHack supports, Runesmith supports!

* Windows: http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2538
* Linux: to follow (the windows one is reported to work fine under wine though)

"A tool that allows smithing (editing) of the digits and runes (letters) that control all life in DF. By smithing these runes, the metagods (players) can meddle with DF mortals to suit their games, be it recasting a soul into a new species body, blessing and cursing indiviudals or just to make predictions of when a mortal will attain the next degree of competence to guide them on how they should spend their limited time." - Psieye - (http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=57003.msg1324765#msg1324765)

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=58809 DFHack] ===

DFHack is a Dwarf Fortress memory access library and a set of basic tools using this library. The library is a work in progress, so things might change as more tools are written for it. Releases support versions up through 0.31.25 (as of April, 2011). Runs on both Windows and Linux.

Code and binary releases are available from the [http://github.com/peterix/dfhack/downloads Github site].

=== DFhack tools for DF 2010 ===
==== dfcleanmap ====
Cleans all the bloodsmears that get scattered all over the map.
==== dfliquids ====
Allows creating liquids (water and magma), making them flow or preventing them from flowing. Newly also allows making obsidian walls. It's a command-prompt style utility where you type in very simple commands. Replaces the older magma_create tool.

Use like this:

game: place 'k' cursor on the tile or on the upper left corner of the area to manipulate.

tool: enter 'range' in the tool and specify width and height of the rectangle.

- remove water

'w'
'0'
's-'
<ENTER>

- create obsidian wall (only works for a single tile, even if a range is specified)

'o'
'1'
's.'
<ENTER>

note that previously existing water or magma still stays at this spot.

- create magma

'm'
'7'
's+'
<ENTER>

==== dfprospector ====
Lists all available minerals on the map and how much of them there is.
==== dfreveal ====
Pauses the game and reveals the whole map, then unreveals it afterwards (unless you press Ctrl+C). Use with caution, releases [[HFS]]! Same warnings as to the original Reveal tool apply.

==== dfvdig ====
Designates a whole vein for digging. When using the '-x' option, it will dig stairs into other z-levels. Point the cursor at a vein and run this thing :)

=== [[Utility:DwarfForeman|Dwarf Foreman]] ===
Dwarf Foreman is a third party program to automatically dispatch jobs to your workers.

=== [[Utility:DwarfScript|Dwarf Script]] ===
Dwarf Script is a program and allows you to manipulate DF's memory using a script.

== Fortress layout tools ==

=== [http://sun2design.com/quickfort/ Quickfort] ===

Quickfort is an AutoHotkey-based utility for Dwarf Fortress that helps you build fortresses from "blueprint" .CSV files (comma separated values). These files are easily created and edited in an app like Excel. Most building-oriented DF commands are supported through the use of multiple .CSV files to describe the different phases of DF construction (designation, building, stockpiles, and making adjustments. Also see [[Quickfort Community Blueprints]].

=== [[User:Soundandfury/DF_Designer|DF Designer]] ===
DF Designer, by [[User:Soundandfury|soundnfury]] is a fort layout planning tool. It enables you to work out your designs before you start to build, and even see how they look in 3-D.
It's written in C with SDL, and both Linux and Windows builds are available. The source code is freely available under the GPL.
Since DF Designer does not 'talk to' Dwarf Fortress, it is version-independent. Supports exporting to Quickfort-compatible CSV files.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=55025.0 ChromaFort] ===
Chromafort allows you to convert 24-bit bitmap (.bmp) images into Quickfort-compatible CSV files.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=64723.15 DF Architect] ===
DF Architect is a short cut to using Chromafort in conjunction with DF Designer. It uses 24-bit bitmap files and directly designates them into Dwarf Fortress. It is an early release program and currently only supports digging, stairs (up, down, and both), and ramps. Its defining feature is the use of an 'index' which allows for the designer to visually connect the cursor to the image. Be careful when using this program as it had no abort or terminating ability while designating, nor will it check to see if you've uploaded correct formats.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=87731 DF Designator] ===
DF Designator helps you build fortresses from either image files or Quickfort .CSV files. It also has a user interface that allows you to assign hotkeys to blueprints and to combine blueprints in multi z-level designs. Windows, Mac and Linux versions are available.

=== [http://www.nickskvarla.com/dwarf/ Quickfort Mapping Tool] ===
Quickfort Mapping Tool is a simple to use web app for creating Quickfort blueprints graphically.

== Modding tools ==

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2068 Custom Workshop Workshop] ===
WYSIWYG editor for designing the raws for a custom workshop.
(Not all raws, just the tiles and colors) Lets you see how it will look at each stage of construction. Comes with the default 16x16 CURSES font built in, but you can load any .BMP formatted DF font you like, keeping in mind that if its bigger than 16x16 it won't fit.

Accommodates up to 32x32 workshops, not that there's any reason for such a large workshop, right?

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=1996 Uristmod] ===
A program which uses text files to automatically change/update raw files. Makes installation of mods easier. However at this time, the documentation is a little confusing and makes creating mods harder for beginners. [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=53028.0 Forum Thread]

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2088 Accent replacement tool] ===
A small application to remove accented characters from a file. A quick solution if you need the language files for a tileset that has images in place of special characters.
Alternatively, you can use this 20-line perl script: http://github.com/rofl0r/df-mayday/blob/master/charfix.pl

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=90725.0 NightS' Easy metal creator] ===
A small script in batch which lets you make new metals easily by introducing their raw values. It provides values of ingame metals as example for the most obscure values.

== Raw tile tools ==

=== [[Utility:Raw tile selector]] ===

Provides an easy to use graphical interface to select which tiles and colors should be displayed for plants, stones and small creatures.

Made to ease the job of creators of tilesets with edited raws. It will also be useful for users that dislike decisions made by tileset creators or users that could not find the edited raws for a tileset.

[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2113 Download]

Currently for windows only.

=== Raw tile merger ===
Provides an easy to use interface to change the tile and color data of raws to match the data of another set of raw files.

Made to ease the job of creators of tilesets with edited raws when new versions of df are released. The edited raws for your tileset for a new df version can now be created with a few clicks.

[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2178 Download]

== World Map / World Gen Tools ==

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=57428 PerfectWorldDF] ===
Very detailed Windows program to help create customize world gens.
<br>[http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=57428 Bay 12 forum link]
<br>[http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=2354 Dwarf Fortress File Depot link (may be old version)]
<br>[http://dffd.wimbli.com/who.php?id=1314 Dwarf Fortress File Depot listing for the author]

It is a Windows program but can also be run under Linux with help of Mono. To can install Mono under Ubuntu by typing this into the terminal:
sudo apt-get install libmono-system-windows-forms4.0-cil libmono-system-core4.0-cil
After installing this you should be able to double-click on the exe and it should work.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=73095.msg2261106#msg2261106 Map Maker] ===
Tool to create realistic-looking fantasy maps out ouf worldgen export. [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=4359 download link]

== Other/miscellaneous ==

=== [http://www.mindwerks.net/projects/exita/ Exita] ===
Exita is a python program that takes your DF world map exports and dump them into several different text outputs.

=== [http://winmerge.org/ WinMerge] ===
Winmerge allows you to compare the contents of folders or files. It highlights any differences between files and allows you to merge them. It is most useful for modders or users of mods. If you compare modified raw files with unmodified ones you can quickly see any differences.

=== [http://kmkeen.com/df2ttf/ df2ttf] ===
df2ttf allows you to convert any Dwarf Fortress tileset (png or bmp) into a TrueType Font equivalent. It's great for running Dwarf Fortress in ncurses mode.

=== [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=4238 Dwarven Guidance Counselor] ===
The Dwarven Guidance Counselor is a JavaScript/HTML page that lets you input a dwarf's attributes and traits, and gives an estimate of how well that dwarf will serve in a particular job.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=59026.0 Lazy Newb Pack] ===
Everything you could possible ever need all in one handy program. It includes graphics packs, DF Hack tools, StoneSense, and much more.

=== [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=72702.0 Legends Viewer] ===
Recreates Legends Mode from exported data. Browser like navigation, including tabs, allows to easily view other people/places/entities by just clicking names in the event logs or search lists.

= Tools under development =

'''The tools listed below are under development for DF 2010, but cannot perform the task they are intended for at this time.'''

=== [[Utility:Obsidian|Obsidian]] ===
''by Skeggox''

Obsidian is a toolset for converting DF maps into a renderable scene, manipulating the result, and displaying it directly in 3D or exporting to 3rd party renderers and raytracers.

Its a modular Lua framework, using Open Scene Graph for rendering and DFHack for talking with Dwarf Fortress.

This [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=57920.0 forum thread] has more detail.

v0.31:Friend

2011-05-27T01:03:50Z

Riking: cheak ur spelling

{{quality|Fine|18:03, 28 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

Dwarves will sometimes make friends, and this gives them a happy thought. The likelihood of two dwarves becoming friends increases as both spend time {{L|Social skill|socializing}} instead of working. But be warned, although Dwarves get happy thoughts from making friends and talking with them, they will become quite sad if a friend dies. This is a common source of {{L|tantrum|fun}}.

Thus Effort must be made to avoid any socializing, there are several ways to do this:
The first and hardest option is to ensure noone ever idles.
The second is to designate a HUGE meeting area, so large that idlers still wont be anywhere near each other.
The best way however is to provide everyone with a personal bedroom. When this is combined with the absense of a designated meeting area, idle dwarves will spend their time in their bedroom, alone.

‼SCIENCE‼

2011-05-22T14:25:42Z

Riking: !!SCIENCE!! alias

=a.k.a. Science On Fire=
{{D for Dwarf}}

A specific form of [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bartle_Test#Explorers spading] in which one or more dwarven test subjects are observed in laboratory habitat. Dwarves may also conduct such test; indeed the same dwarf performing ‼Science‼ may also ''be'' the ‼Science‼ Dwarven adventurers may also perform ‼Science‼, but if it's not a dwarf, it just isn't ‼Science‼<BR><BR>

Not to be confused with science. !!Science!!, in comparison to science, generally involves more magma, more casualties and more [[Fun]].

Sandbox

2011-05-22T04:32:55Z

Riking: created as redirect to Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Sandbox

#REDIRECT [[Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Sandbox]]

Dwarf Fortress Wiki:Sandbox

2011-05-22T04:32:02Z

Riking: sandbox header

{{sandbox}}
sand sand sand

[[Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Sandbox#anchortest]]

=bleh!=

hi hi hi
</anchor="anchortest">hi</anchor>
jfdlkjekj

dang, i need length on the page :(

...this DOES get reset every 24 hours, right?

eflk

jel

Template:Sandbox

2011-05-22T04:25:18Z

Riking: oopsies

{{ombox
|image=[[File:Sandbox.png|75px|alt=|link=]]
|style=margin: auto;
|text={{#ifeq: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|Wikipedia talk:Sandbox|{{Template:Sandbox heading/Talk not}}}}
Welcome to this [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:About_the_Sandbox Sandbox page], which allows you to carry out experiments. To edit, click <span class="plainlinks">'''[{{SERVER}}{{localurl:{{NAMESPACE}}:{{PAGENAME}}|action=edit}} here]'''</span> or the ''Edit'' tab above{{#ifeq: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|Wikipedia talk:Sandbox|, or, to easily create a new discussion topic, click the ''New section'' tab instead}}; make your changes, and click the ''Save page'' button when finished. Content will '''not''' stay permanently{{verify}}; this page is automatically cleaned regularly, and may be overwritten by other testing users.

Please do not place copyrighted, offensive, or libelous content in the sandboxes.

For a sandbox of your own, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:User_pages#SUB create a user subpage].
}}

Template:Sandbox

2011-05-22T04:24:42Z

Riking: editing to use extern links

{{ombox
|image=[[File:Sandbox.png|75px|alt=|link=]]
|style=margin: auto;
|text={{#ifeq: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|Wikipedia talk:Sandbox|{{Template:Sandbox heading/Talk not}}}}
Welcome to this [[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:About_the_Sandbox|Sandbox page]], which allows you to carry out experiments. To edit, click <span class="plainlinks">'''[{{SERVER}}{{localurl:{{NAMESPACE}}:{{PAGENAME}}|action=edit}} here]'''</span> or the ''Edit'' tab above{{#ifeq: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|Wikipedia talk:Sandbox|, or, to easily create a new discussion topic, click the ''New section'' tab instead}}; make your changes, and click the ''Save page'' button when finished. Content will '''not''' stay permanently{{verify}}; this page is automatically cleaned regularly, and may be overwritten by other testing users.

Please do not place copyrighted, offensive, or libelous content in the sandboxes.

For a sandbox of your own, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:User_pages#SUB|create a user subpage].
}}

Template:Ombox/core

2011-05-22T04:21:40Z

Riking: used already-existing file

<table class="plainlinks ombox {{#ifeq:{{{small}}}|yes|mbox-small}}
{{#switch:{{{type|}}}
| speedy = ombox-speedy
| delete = ombox-delete
| content = ombox-content
| style = ombox-style
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| notice 
| #default = ambox-notice
}}" style="{{{style|}}}">
<tr>
{{#ifeq:{{{image|}}}|none
| <td class="mbox-empty-cell"></td>
| <td class="mbox-image">
{{#if:{{{image|}}}
| {{{image}}}
| [[Image:{{#switch:{{{type|}}}
| speedy = Imbox speedy deletion.png
| delete = Imbox deletion.png
| content = Imbox content.png
| style = Edit-clear.svg
| move = Imbox move.png
| protection = Imbox protection.png
| notice 
| #default = Ambox notice.png
}} | {{#ifeq:{{{small|}}}|yes
| 30x30px
| 40x40px
}}|link=|alt=]]
}}</td>
}}
<td class="mbox-text" style="{{{textstyle|}}}"> {{{text}}} </td>
{{#if:{{{imageright|}}}
| {{#ifeq:{{{imageright|}}}|none
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| <td class="mbox-imageright"> {{{imageright}}} </td>
}}
}}
</tr>
</table>{{#switch:{{{type|}}}
| 
| speedy
| delete
| content
| style
| move
| protection
| notice = 
| #default = <div style="text-align: center;">This message box is using an invalid "type={{{type|}}}" parameter and needs fixing.</div>[[Category:Wikipedia message box parameter needs fixing|{{main other|Main:}}{{FULLPAGENAME}}]]
}}

Template:Ombox/core

2011-05-22T04:18:40Z

Riking: btw, forking this from wikipedia

<table class="plainlinks ombox {{#ifeq:{{{small}}}|yes|mbox-small}}
{{#switch:{{{type|}}}
| speedy = ombox-speedy
| delete = ombox-delete
| content = ombox-content
| style = ombox-style
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| notice 
| #default = ombox-notice
}}" style="{{{style|}}}">
<tr>
{{#ifeq:{{{image|}}}|none
| <td class="mbox-empty-cell"></td>
| <td class="mbox-image">
{{#if:{{{image|}}}
| {{{image}}}
| [[Image:{{#switch:{{{type|}}}
| speedy = Imbox speedy deletion.png
| delete = Imbox deletion.png
| content = Imbox content.png
| style = Edit-clear.svg
| move = Imbox move.png
| protection = Imbox protection.png
| notice 
| #default = Imbox notice.png
}} | {{#ifeq:{{{small|}}}|yes
| 30x30px
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}}</td>
}}
<td class="mbox-text" style="{{{textstyle|}}}"> {{{text}}} </td>
{{#if:{{{imageright|}}}
| {{#ifeq:{{{imageright|}}}|none
| 
| <td class="mbox-imageright"> {{{imageright}}} </td>
}}
}}
</tr>
</table>{{#switch:{{{type|}}}
| 
| speedy
| delete
| content
| style
| move
| protection
| notice = 
| #default = <div style="text-align: center;">This message box is using an invalid "type={{{type|}}}" parameter and needs fixing.</div>[[Category:Wikipedia message box parameter needs fixing|{{main other|Main:}}{{FULLPAGENAME}}]]
}}

Template:Ombox

2011-05-22T04:17:47Z

Riking: Created page with '{{#ifeq:{{{small|}}}|yes | {{ombox/core | small = yes | type = {{{type|}}} | image = {{#if:{{{smallimage|}}}| {{{smallimage}}} | {{{image|}}} }} | imageright = {{#if:{{{…'

{{#ifeq:{{{small|}}}|yes
| {{ombox/core
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}}
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}}
}}

Dwarf Fortress Wiki:Sandbox

2011-05-22T04:15:12Z

Riking:

sand sand sand

[[Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Sandbox#anchortest]]

=bleh!=

hi hi hi
</anchor="anchortest">hi</anchor>
jfdlkjekj

dang, i need length on the page :(

...this DOES get reset every 24 hours, right?

eflk

jel

Dwarf Fortress Wiki:Sandbox

2011-05-22T04:14:40Z

Riking:

sand sand sand

[[Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Sandbox#anchortest]]

=bleh!=

hi hi hi
</anchor="anchortest">hi</anchor>
jfdlkjekj

dang, i need length on the page :(

eflk

jel

Dwarf Fortress Wiki:Sandbox

2011-05-22T04:14:27Z

Riking:

sand sand sand

[[Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Sandbox#anchortest]]

=bleh!=

hi hi hi
<anchor="anchortest">hi</anchor>
jfdlkjekj

dang, i need length on the page :(

eflk

jel

Dwarf Fortress Wiki:Sandbox

2011-05-22T04:14:03Z

Riking:

sand sand sand

[[Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Sandbox#anchortest]]

=bleh!=

hi hi hi
<anchor="anchortest">hi</anchor>
jfdlkjekj

eflk

jel