Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

Bridge

2025-05-10T22:40:21Z

Nand: /* Raising and retracting bridges */ In Steam version raising is the default.

{{Quality|Masterwork}}
{{av}}

[[File:icon_bridge.png|right]] '''Bridges''' are [[building]]s which provide a temporarily walkable floor that can either be removed ("retracting" bridges) or turned into a wall ("raising" bridges) via linked [[mechanism]]s. Bridges are useful for crossing empty space and dangerous terrain, serve a vital role in [[Defense design|fortress defense]], and have a host of ancillary uses. For example, using a single large bridge to control [[flow|fluids]] can save a ton of mechanisms and time when replacing the likes of floodgates, especially when the [[magma|fluid in question]] requires a wide opening.

==Building bridges==
When first built, any bridge is just a static walkway, often (but not necessarily) over open space. They can be used as is, and use less materials than a [[construction|constructed]] floor of the same size serving the same purpose. if you want them to raise or lower, they must be linked to a trigger (see [[Bridge#Raising and retracting bridges|below]]).

Bridges can be built ({{k|b}} -> {{k|n}} -> {{k|b}}) of [[metal]], [[stone]] or [[wood]]. They are designed and built by a specialist worker in the material used* (e.g. a [[mason]] for a stone bridge, etc.). The size of the bridge can be altered using the mouse to expand from the initially selected point while placing it, up to a maximum size of 31 squares in each direction (31x31)**.

: (* See note re "core material" under [[:Bridge#Materials|Materials]], below) 
: (** You can place additional bridges side by side to make them infinitely wider. You can also place a second bridge on the ''other'' side of a wide gap to span as much as 60 tiles. Any more requires some solid anchor to provide another 30 tile maximum (in both directions).)

Raising bridges must be anchored to a solid surface on the "raising" edge. Before placing a raising bridge, ensure that the bridge raises from the direction you want it by selecting the appropriate icon. The direction points to the side of the bridge which will become a wall when the bridge is raised.

Since a retracting bridge completely disappears, direction doesn't matter. Retracting bridges are the default, but if you selected "raising" by mistake, there is a separate option shown to the right for a retracting bridge.

=====Placement requirements=====
The error message 'Needs walkable perimeter' suggests that access is required all the way around the perimeter of the bridge, however, only one accessible adjacent tile is required. Placement of the bridge also requires that all of the tiles it occupies not have more than 1/7 water on them at the time of construction.

===Materials===
Bridges require stone, logs, and/or [[block]]s - they can be mixed - with blocks being placed significantly faster during the actual construction. The formula for the number of building materials needed is: number of tiles in the bridge divided by four, rounded down, plus one, or {size/4, rounded down}+1.

So, for example, a 3-tile bridge takes {3 tiles/4=3/4 -> 0} +1 = 1 building material. A 4-tile bridge takes {4/4=1} +1 = 2. A 5×10 bridge would require {50/4=12 1/2 -> 12} +1 = 13, and so on.

The "core" material of the bridge is the ''oldest'' individual building material used (i.e. the first item that was created in the fortress or that entered the map).{{cite forum|134816}} The core material determines the color, style, and description of the bridge, as well as the labor required for construction.

Care should be taken when choosing materials for bridges that will be exposed to [[fire]] or [[magma]]: Bridges built with non-[[magma-safe]] materials will heat up and eventually melt if the center tile (with bias towards the northwest if the center doesn't fall on a single tile) gets covered in magma or exposed to fire, whether the bridge is raised, lowered, or even retracted. The ability of a bridge to withstand heat is limited by the ''least'' fire-resistant item involved - a single non-magmaproof building block or mechanism will cause the whole bridge to deconstruct when exposed to sufficient heat. [[Dragonfire]] almost immediately melts nearly all bridges ([[slade]] being the prime exception).

==Raising and retracting bridges==
[[File:DFwikiBridgeAndLever.png|thumb|right|A bridge, and a lever connected to it]]
When designating a bridge to be built, you can choose to make it "retracting" or "raising" (the default). A retracting bridge disappears when it is "up" and become invisible, and a raising bridge is a "drawbridge", forming a visible wall when it's up. The "wall" is always just 1 z-level high x 1 tile thick (and as wide as the bridge is wide), no matter how long the "drawbridge" is when it's down. For raising bridges, you select which direction you want it to raise when you designate it to be built. This cannot be changed later, which would require deconstructing and rebuilding a new bridge.

All bridges can be either raised or retracted by linking it to a trigger with [[mechanism]]s - this requires a dwarf with the [[mechanics]] labor activated. Once the trigger (either a lever or pressure plate) is in place, use {{k|q}}uery on that trigger and select "link to {{k|b}}ridge". You will then get a pop-up map where you can cycle through all bridges that you have currently built in your fortress. Select one, and then select the 2 specific mechanisms you want to use to link the bridge. Quality of mechanism has no effect on the raising/lowering of the bridge, nor the time to install the mechanisms.

Any bridge, retracting or raising, of any size, will respond to the trigger signal 100 [[Time|tick]]s after the signal is sent. You can link more than one bridge to the same trigger and they will all respond simultaneously.

If a bridge is set to retract when trigger is activated, the bridge essentially disappears, ''tossing'' anything (friend, foe, or object) on the bridge onto whatever is underneath. Clearly this can be used to drop your enemies to rocky/watery/fiery deaths (or anything more imaginative you can think up!). Note that the creatures and objects are "tossed" with a semi-random initial velocity; this can reduce the lethality of pit traps (creatures bouncing off the walls lose the precious momentum that would otherwise result in an unsurvivable splat at the bottom), interfere with the reproducibility of dwarven !!SCIENCE!!, and be [[exploit]]ed as the key mechanic in [[#Coinstar training|coinstar training]].

If a bridge is set to raise when a lever is pulled, the bridge will become a [[wall]] along the edge selected with the {{k|w}}{{k|a}}{{k|d}}{{k|x}} keys when placing the bridge. When activated, the bridge "raises" very quickly, flinging anything on the bridge into the air, with unpleasant if not always deadly side effects. The resulting wall is always one z-level tall, watertight, and invulnerable to [[building destroyer]]s. Raising "drawbridges" can be used to block fortress entrances and corridors. When lowered, bridges will destroy most anything on the underlying tiles. By "destroying", we mean dwarves, foes, and items will entirely disappear from the game, a rare event which led to the creation of the term [[dwarven atom smasher]].

Any water displaced by a raising bridge is destroyed regardless of how much open space is on each side or above. Water resting atop a retracting bridge falls straight down after the bridge retracts.

==== And levers ====
Note that, depending on the design, retracting and raising bridges can provide the opposite reaction from an "open" signal. When the "open" signal is sent, both bridges "disappear" from view - the retracting bridge disappears completely, and the raising bridge becomes a 1-tile high, 1-tile thick wall. But this means that the raising bridge closes the passage on the same level with that wall that it creates on the "open" signal. This can be used to create either an "open" passage or "closed" passage on the "open" signal, depending on the design.

Of course, this is true for bridges and [[pressure plate]]s as well.

==Notes==
Bridges will not operate if any one creature of [[List of creatures by adult size#bridge|size 1,200,000]] or larger is on them. This weight limit is not cumulative - a bridge will still retract if a hundred goblins are standing on it, but a single [[rutherer]] accompanying those goblins will prevent the bridge from operating. Attempting to lower a drawbridge onto such a creature (in order to [[Dwarven atom smasher|atom-smash]] it) will cause the bridge itself to deconstruct. Attempting to "unretract" a bridge while such a creature is in any of the bridge tiles will similarly cause the bridge to deconstruct. The size limit does not apply to creatures inside cages.

It is impossible to channel out stone that is directly under a bridge, raised or not. Likewise digging a ramp under a bridge will not remove the floor tile. To remove these floor tiles, the bridge must be deconstructed. Note that [[obsidian casting]] can ''create'' new floor tiles under a bridge, which then behave in the manner above.

Big bridges can take weeks or even months to complete. You can shorten construction time by moving the materials to the site before starting construction, and by using blocks instead of stones. The material-gathering time is somewhat shorter for blocks due to their lesser weight, and the actual construction is three times faster for blocks.

'''Warning:''' while bridges do not provide structural [[support]], the game will still allow you to place [[construction]]s adjacent to them. Any construction that is completed when attached only to a bridge will cause an immediate [[cave-in]], often tossing the unlucky mason off the edge, to <s>a horrible death</s> any bystanders' great entertainment. However, a construction that connects to an existing supported construction when completed will not cause a cave-in, even if it is also adjacent to a bridge. To build constructions next to a bridge safely, ensure that ''all'' unbuilt constructions adjacent to a bridge are also adjacent to a construction that has already been completed. When building large constructions, it may be useful to [[suspend]] all tiles adjacent to a bridge until the neighboring constructions have been completed.
 '''Example:'''
{| class="wikitable"
|-
|Will cause a cave-in
|Will '''not''' cause a cave-in
|-
|
<diagram>
╔═╗[#3:0]▓[#]
║+║[#0:0][@6:0]O[#@]
╚═╝[#3:0]▓[#]
[#2:1].,'[#3:0]▓[#]
</diagram>
|
<diagram>
╔═╗[#3:0]▓[#]
║+║[#0:0][@6:0]O[#@]
╚═╝║
[#2:1]`,.[#]O
</diagram>
|}

Deconstructing bridges can be hazardous, as dwarves are not as compunctuous as with constructions and diggings to make sure no one is standing on them before destroying them.

A raised bridge cannot be linked to a lever from the inside - the mechanic must be able to access the center tile of the bridge when lowered.

If you aren't sure whether or not a 1 tile thick bridge is raised or lowered, try to build a piece of furniture, like a statue, on it. If it says blocked, the bridge is raised, if it says building present, it is lowered. You can also link another (longer) drawbridge to the same lever, to use as a visual indicator of the other bridge's status. Since this takes additional time and mechanisms, this is best reserved for when it's especially important that you know at a glance whether that bridge is blocking things.

==Uses==
Perhaps the most straightforward use of a bridge is spanning empty space or dangerous terrain. Bridges only need roughly 25% of the material that building [[floor]]s would require, and can be completed relatively quickly as well. Bridges are limited to a span of 20 tiles across open space; greater distances will require columns or other means of support. ("Floating" retracting bridges can be built into spans longer than 20 tiles, but they will deconstruct when support is checked.{{bug|9946}})

===Remote controlled gateways===
Lever-controlled bridges are one of the safer ways to control access. They are immune to building destroyers, though care must be taken to avoid operating them in the presence of exceptionally large creatures. [[Magma safe]] material should be used in the construction if there is any chance magma might flow over the bridge.

Retracting bridges built covering the top of a ramp or stairway can never be destroyed from beneath.

===Floodgates===
Raising bridges make a good replacement for most [[floodgate]] uses (e.g. flow and access control). They have the advantage of not being as easily jammed: they fling or [[Dwarven_atom_smasher|atom smash]] all items and all but the largest enemies on their tile/s when they open or close, whereas a floodgate or door will jam open with a discarded sock in it. Further, bridges cannot be destroyed by [[building destroyer]]s, while [[floodgate]]s can be. A single bridge can also be made up to ten tiles wide, potentially replacing ten floodgates and saving many mechanisims and much work. One minor downside of bridges compared to floodgates is, in classic mode, that bridges with a width of 1 look the same when raised as when lowered, so it is easy to confuse whether they are closed or not. This is not the case for the Steam version. If you are unsure of a bridge's status, check the control lever if there is one (in most tilesets, lever to the right means closed), or try to build furniture on top of the bridge and check the resulting warning message ("blocked" means the bridge is raised, "building present" means it's lowered).

===Waste disposal===
{{Main|Dwarven atom smasher}}
Lowering raised bridges can be used as [[waste disposal]] for unwanted stones, [[refuse]], [[goblin]]s (dead or alive), legendary [[cheese]] makers and [[nobles]], to name a few. Even fluids get destroyed. Note, however, that lowering a drawbridge onto a sufficiently large creature (such as a [[forgotten beast]]) simply causes the bridge to deconstruct.

===[[Trap_design#Bridge_and_drop_traps|Traps]]===
Using two bridges at opposite ends of a corridor creates a very large and simple trap by walling in enemies. Or... Smashing them to tiny bits if placed to raise facing each other, with no space in between.
For added effect, place [[pressure plate]]s on both ends to raise the bridge when stepped on, to fling the units. If there is a [[floor]] directly above, they will be stunned. If there is a floor beneath the bridge, and if nobody is on the pressure plate, they will likely be smashed when the bridges come back down. If there is nothing above, they will land rather far away. Bonus points for making them land in a particularly [[Spike#Menacing_spike|nasty spot]].
If there is no floor beneath the bridge, they will fall, sometimes into something [[water|very,]] [[magma|very]] [[megabeast|bad.]]

===Minecart routing===
Lowered/extended bridges "cover" [[Minecart]] track corners constructed or carved underneath, allowing carts to travel in a straight line instead. This can let you change minecart routes via pulling levers.

===[[Cave-in]]s===
Since bridges don't support adjoining rock, it is possible to set up a cave-in so that dust can't come up, dwarves can't fall down, and flying creatures can't come up from beneath the cave-in before you set it off. Bridges are also instrumental in [[magma piston]] applications.

===Improvised ceilings===
Building an outdoor structure, such as an [[Archery tower]], requires considerable expense and time. The reduced material requirements make bridges a viable alternative to roofing it up tile by tile. While it'll still be immune to [[Building destroyer]]s, a proper constructed ceiling is superior if you expect it to be exposed to [[Dragon|extreme temperatures]].

===Improvised walls===
[[Wall]]s cannot be built along map edges above ground, but raising bridges can. Because these bridges can be raised to act as walls, they can be used to control where wildlife, enemies, and [[caravan]]s spawn on the map edges.

A similar technique can be used to prevent fliers from spawning above ground, but it requires bridges to be built at ''every'' z-level. This requires considerable effort, as each bridge needs to be accessible to the dwarves building it, as well as needing support for each bridge. It can also be somewhat [[fun|risky]] if a dangerous creature suddenly spawns near a dwarf working on the bridge (especially in [[evil]] biomes). Note that this technique, when completed, will also prevent fliers from leaving the map.

===Ocean drains===
Designate ramps on the 2nd level below an ocean. Build a retracting bridge directly above the ramps (immediately under the ocean) leaving the ramps in place, and link it to a trigger. In order to build the bridge (and link it) you will need access to the level of the bridge. Now seal that access off (the constructed wall in the below diagram) so the chamber above the bridge is water tight. Now with the bridge in place, designate ramps up to the ocean adjacent to the bridge. Diggers with access to the level ''below'' the bridge can dig those ramps up from the level of the bridge, allowing the ocean to fill the chamber; even with the ramp squares underwater they can still dig them out. And not a drop of water will touch them... provided they clear out before you pull the lever.

Shown below is a 2x1 bridge (any size bridge can be used) before and after designating the ramps adjacent to the bridge. The stairs and passage on Z2 satisfy the 'Needs walkable perimeter' requirement and provide access to the top of the bridge for linking to a trigger. The passage is then blocked with a wall to make it water tight.

Before breaking through After
side X side Y side X side Y
Z3 ≥≥≥≥≥≥≥ ≥≥≥≥≥≥≥≥≥≥ ≥≥>≥>≥≥ ≥≥≥≥≥≥≥≥≥≥
Z2 ###B### ##Z_X_BB## ##^B^## ##Z_X_BB##
Z1 ###^### Z ^^## ###^### Z ^^##
Z0 ####### ########## ####### ##########

≥ = Water with floor > = Water without floor Z = Stairs
^ = Ramp # = Solid Rock X = Constructed Wall _ = Floor (not constructed)

===Caravan exits===
A bridge to nowhere, built well above ground level at the edge of the map, can sometimes serve as a handy exit for [[caravan]]s and [[diplomat]]s when your fortress is under [[siege]].

===Stops on the elevator===
Designate a dumpsite or set up a floodgate at the top of a shaft; use multiple remote-controlled bridges to decide on which level the stuff, water, magma etc. gets off. (bonus: use water falling at one end of the bridge to flush stuff off that was dropped onto the other end without the manual labor)

===Single lever airlock===
Raising bridges and retracting bridges controlled by a single lever will be in opposite states of being open or closed. When one is closed (raised) the other is open (retracted) and vice versa. This fact can be used to construct airlocks that are not vulnerable to [[building destroyer|building destroyers]] or mistimed lever pulls e.g.
Side View:
Z1 XXXXXXR____ D = Raising drawbridge / = Ramp _ = Floor
Z0 D_____/XXXX R = Retracting bridge X = Solid Rock or Constructed Wall

With a suitably long distance between the two bridges, the controlling lever can be placed within the airlock, and by setting the profile of the lever specific dwarves can be moved between isolated areas.

===Decorations===
Bridges benefit from the skill of the builder, and that multiplier is also applied to any attached mechanisms. High-quality bridges can inspire happy [[thought]]s in your dwarves and help meet room value needs. Bridges may also be used to form [[mosaic]]s or even [[Style_project#Mosaics|animations]].

===Coinstar training===
The mechanical "tossing" action of retracting bridges can be used for training [[armor user]] and associated traits by repeatedly flinging small items at the trainee. See [[Danger_room#Coinstar_Room|Danger room]] for more information.
Alternatively, this design can be used as a trap: invaders atop a retracting bridge inside locked room will get thrown around and optionally pummelled with "ammunition" like stones or weapons placed in the room.

==Bugs==
* Metal bridges can be constructed by dwarves with any of the "metalsmith" skills enabled, however the builder's blacksmith skill is used to determine quality{{bug|4899}}
* Trees grow through bridges, may make the bridges unusable{{bug|7872}}
* Retracting bridges can be built without support, but will deconstruct when support is checked{{bug|9946}}

{{Translation
| dwarven = sazir
| elvish = valóna
| goblin = romnu
| human = ori
}}

{{buildings}}
{{Category|Buildings}}

Well guide

2025-05-01T07:11:53Z

Nand: /* Why You Might Not */ Added reasons to not use wells.

{{migrated article}}
{{Quality|Unrated}}
{{av}}
''This guide assumes you've read the main article on '''[[well]]s''' and are familiar with the basic information found in that article, of what a well is used for and what is required to build one.''

A well can be vital to any fortress, but deciding that you need one and building one are two different things. Draining water from the surface can flood your fortress if you aren't careful, and building a well, only to see the water source dry up or freeze, is beyond frustrating. This guide will walk you through a number of different situations, and explain solutions that have been found for these problems.

== Why Build a Well? ==

Not every fortress needs a well. But they all need some form of safe ''water source'' to bring water to patients and prisoners. If they do not have this and you find yourself in a siege with six injured dwarves, you're in for a little bit of [[Fun]]... But a hole full of water can be just as good for that as a well.

=== Why You Might Not ===

* Wells are yet another opportunity to flood your fort (not like trenches aren't, though). Playing with water is generally dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.
* For the purposes unrelated to drinking and bathing, a well is just a hole in the floor. Fighting dwarves and animals can easily dodge into it, as they would into any other hole.
* They take a lot of time and effort to construct, especially when compared to alternatives.
* Because of the way wells are, a single hole in a flat ceiling, it makes it more difficult for creatures to get out, should they find themselves in your water source.
* Technically, tiles adjacent to a trench full of water can be designated as a water source just as easily as a well, and dwarves will sanely path around such a trench, as well as bathe in it more easily.
* It is much faster for dwarves to run down and up stairs to a water source and scooping a bucket of water than waiting for a well bucket to make the journey, furthermore unlimited dwarves can scoop water in parallel while a well can only be used by a single dwarf at a time. Dwarves do not get bad thoughts for the lack of a well when scooping buckets of water.
* A water source can be protected by a grate or floor bars, dwarves can still scoop buckets of water through a grate, but nothing can fall in it, or come up through it.
* If you do make a shallow pool (mixture of 3/7 and 4/7 water) as a water source, and have a meeting hall designated therein, unoccupied dwarves will hang out in the water, gaining swimming skill.

=== Why You Might ===

* While a trench full of water can be used as a water source, a well can draw water from a source that is 30+ levels below. Also, a trench water source can only be one level deep, dwarves will not draw water from any level deeper than that. A well will.
* Wells can be made to have high value, due to the various skills and materials, each with their own quality levels, which go into its construction. This can be especially true if you have an artifact bucket, chain or mechanisms. Thus, as the center piece for a meeting room, even if they have no water, wells can be very handy in making dwarves very happy.
* As far as the well itself goes, they take up very little space in your actual fortress. With a water-filled channel, the reservoir is equivalent to the floor space occupied.
* This is a glitch, but wells are the easiest method for making salt water drinkable. Wells will ignore salinity and allow dwarves to drink salt water directly from its source, so long as it isn't murky.
* Drinking from a well is much faster than drinking from a trench. Also less annoying to dwarves.
* You can build a well over a trench, combining best parts of both.

== Choosing a Location ==

Once you've decided it's time to construct a well, you need to consider where the well needs to be. It helps if you've been planning for this while building the rest of your fortress, and have made room for it.

You want a well central to your dwarves, so they'll all get good thoughts from seeing it, and near any [[hospital]] beds you have, but you want it off the main traffic routes. You can have more than one well, which solves that problem, but raises the one of engineering water to feed them all. If it's indoors (or behind walls), then there's little threat from [[carp]], [[goblin]]s, or [[animal]]s, and it can provide a safe source of drinking water during a [[siege]].

Depending on your start location, you may already have a preexisting water source, such as a flooded cavern, which you can just build a well over. Or, as is usually the case, you may need to transport water from some other location to where you want your well to be. This is where things get complicated.

== Water sources ==

A well needs a water source of at least 3/7 depth, at least 1 [[z-level]] somewhere directly below its opening, with no obstructions between itself and said water. Preexisting water is safe because it's the most predictable - what you see is what you've got, no surprises. You can instead use dwarven engineering to bring water from a distant source to beneath your well, with a safety factor based on your experience and the complexity of the project. (See [[flood]].)

The important part about the well is to make sure that you don't create a situation where the water will [[flood]] your fortress, due to [[pressure]] from a source at a higher level. If the water is stable before you build the well above it, it will be safe (unless your dwarves change things), but if you are introducing a flow, make sure you understand how ''dwarven'' pressure works and will not fall victim to its surprises. (See [[pressure]].)

=== Preexisting sources ===

A [[brook]], [[river]], [[murky pool]], or [[cavern]] lakes can provide water under a well. If the water source is only one z-level deep and contains a pile of mud, the water produced will be [[Water#Water_laced_with_mud|muddy]]. 'A dusting of mud', however, is not an issue - your well and its water is <s>fine</s> wonderful.

The surface of a brook tile will have to be channeled out, but it otherwise works just fine.

Murky pools are not optimal: they can dry up in warm seasons, and water directly from murky pools is [[Water#Stagnant_water|stagnant]], which is just as bad as being muddy. Murky pools can refill from [[rain]], but on hot maps, this may never happen.

=== [[Aquifer|Aquifers]] ===

If you have an aquifer, just channel a 1x1 square in any open stretch of floor above it and build the well. It will automatically fill and never flood. You'll have other construction projects to worry about.

Water coming into contact with a floor or slope may create "a dusting of mud". However, both 'A dusting of mud' and a 'Muddy Upward Slope' are not an issue - your well and its water are <s>fine</s> wonderful.

=== [[Ocean|Oceans]] ===

Oceans and aquifers near oceans carry [[Water#Salt_water|salty]] water. This is normally unusable for treating wounds or drinking. However, salty water obtained from a well is used just like normal. This is a bug. {{bug|1260}}

=== [[Reservoir|Reservoirs]] ===

If you need to move water to your well, you need to dig/build a reservoir. A reservoir is basically a big hole intended for the storage of large quantities of water.

When digging a reservoir, you need to consider your needs and the space you have available. Do you really need a 20x20x20 reservoir, holding 56,000 tiles of water, requiring 560,000 uses of the well to fully dry up? Frequently, in well-managed fortresses, wells are really only used for the care of sick or imprisoned dwarves and the occasional bath. As a result, a reservoir doesn't need a particularly large capacity.

Another consideration is safety. Specifically, dwarves fighting near wells can fall into them, whether as a result of sparring or due to overcrowding of animals. You may wish to place some sort of escape route from the well, should anyone do so. At the least, this just needs to be a staircase going up the side of the well to the surface. The shorter the distance they need to go, the better off they are. Keep in mind, of course, that if any wildlife is able to access your reservoir, and if any of them are able to leave the water, they may wander into your fortress through the escape route. If they're particularly malicious, they may even path their way in to attack your dwarves.

If you are filling the reservoir by aqueduct, consider the fill point. If you are using only gravity to fill the well, but the water needs to flow up to do so, you may experience problems when it comes time to refill your well. Specifically, water floods upwards into empty space very easily, but for some reason doesn't like to flood through still water. Thus, it may be more appropriate to have the reservoir fill from its top, though keep in mind that this is a very fast fill method and can flood a bit if you aren't watching and have a small reservoir. (As a side note on that, it is possible to fill a well by pouring water directly through the well opening itself)

Finally, you may find some circumstance where you'd wish to make changes to the well. For example, building a statue in its reservoir, or recovering a lost loved one who fell in and cracked his skull open. In these instances, you may wish to construct a manual drain. All it requires is a hatch or floodgate at the bottom of the well, connected to a lever, covering a tunnel leading to an appropriate dump site... Like your subterranean farming operation. Or your obsidian factory. Or a room full of captured <s>nobles</s> goblins. If you already have a drain for the aqueduct, you can easily connect the two.

== Filling the Well ==

If you've had to construct a well separate from a pre-existing water source, you need to move that water to the well itself. There's two main ways to go about this.

=== Bucket-filling a well ===

If you designate your well as a pit/pond and have empty buckets, dwarves will fill the well manually. Keep in mind that this is slow, time-consuming and occupies dwarves who could be doing something else. Of course, for particularly small wells, it may be of no concern. If the walking distance is quite far, (like, STUPIDLY far - your fortress would need to be a truly tangled maze for this to happen) the water may evaporate faster than dwarves can fill the well. If you don't have enough buckets, this will happen even to the tiniest of wells, though.

=== Piping water to your reservoir ===

If the water is not where you want to build the well, you can dig a tunnel or channel and/or otherwise create an [[aqueduct]] to bring it to where you want it. You should consider adding a door or floodgate somewhere near the water source so that you can dry out your tunnels for future projects, repair, or recovery of lost items.

Channels are open to the sky, and if not done properly, (taking advantage of some weird quirks in game functionality) they are subject to evaporation and freezing. As a result, they aren't normally an optimal method of moving water. Of course, there's nothing stopping you from digging a moat, then filling your well from that. Keep in mind, however, that open water frequently becomes a random hazard, as dwarves can be quite careless at times. If you do have open water set up somewhere, make sure your dwarves have some way out of it. You never know when a random goblin will kick your elite stonecrafter into your moat.

Digging tunnels, then, is generally a better way of moving water from place to place. You need to be careful about how you dig such aqueducts. Water can move through diagonal openings, so be sure to avoid flooding nearby rooms from accidental corner intersections. Make sure that any unnecessary access points to your aqueduct are properly sealed before letting the water flow.

The generally accepted method for digging an aqueduct has five steps.

# Dig out the reservoir where you want to store the water.
# From the reservoir, dig a tunnel up to your water source, but leave one space of earth to prevent water from flooding in and killing your dwarf.
# Build a door or floodgate in the aqueduct, either at the end of the tunnel or at the entrance to the reservoir. Or both if you're fancy. (Doors are better, because the dwarf can walk through it if he builds it from the wrong side)
# Connect the door/floodgate to a lever, and make sure any dwarves stuck in the tunnel are safely evicted.
# Channel out the final tile from above, pull the lever. Let the water fill the reservoir, then pull the lever again, sealing the water source.

Keep in mind, when you command the lever to be pulled to end filling, it may take some time for an available dwarf to actually do it. Even then, there is some lag time between the lever pull and the action it causes. Finally, if your plug is at some point in the aqueduct, but not at the entrance of the reservoir, any water in the aqueduct above the water level in the reservoir will continue to pour in.

If you want to empty the aqueduct, use a similar method to build a drain to some reasonable dumping location, like a cavern. Make sure you can control it with levers, however, or it will constantly drain instead of filling your well.

== Safety ==

A well is not an obstructing object. That is to say, it doesn't stop things from passing through its space. This is why wells can function through other wells, why water will flood out of them, and why a (very) few monsters may be able to climb out through them if you're tremendously unlucky.

=== Flooding ===

More fortresses have fallen at the hands of a flooding well than they have to megabeasts, sieges or the infamous HFS. If you are going to be shifting water around in any form <s>other than buckets</s> including buckets and Urist McDrownseasily, be prepared for the worst.

There are several solutions to the flooding problem.

* Overflow Drainage. At the top of a reservoir, dig a tunnel to drain water out the side, and have it dump out into some appropriate sump, like a cavern full of armok-knows-what.
* Emergency Auto-plug. You can make pressure plates sense water. If you set up a pressure plate beside your well, and connect it to a hatch or door blocking your reservoir, it will automatically seal the reservoir off from its flow source, should the thing flood.
* No Exits. The safest and easiest way to do it, is to dig out the reservoir, ''but not the opening for the well itself''. This way, you can fill the reservoir completely, and because there's nowhere for it to flood out to, it simply WON'T! Then you can seal off the reservoir at your leisure and dig the opening without concern! (Though not without caution. Make sure you turned the taps off first.)
* Cut the Pressure. Filling a reservoir from above is a good way to cause a flood. You can neutralize the excess [[pressure]] by including a diagonal passage in the aqueduct at or below the level of the well.

=== Monsters ===

You don't need to worry too much about monsters crawling out of your well to gobble down your hairy friends these days, but that doesn't mean it's impossible. It all depends on what beasts may be lurking around- and how you build your well.

If you are draining water through an aqueduct, and you know there may be dangerous animals living in it, there are ways to prevent their entry. The simplest way to do this is to build a raising [[Bridge#Uses|bridge]] at the intake. Unlike [[floodgate]]s, bridges are immune to [[building destroyer]]s so absolutely nothing can get through when raised. Naturally when the bridge is not raised, anything is free to walk on in. If you wish to prevent entry when the bridge is not raised you can place [[Grate|wall grates]] or [[Bars|upright bars]] to act as filters. These allow water to pass through, but animals cannot. (Note that submerged [[fortification]]s do '''not''' block creature movement.) Quickly [[flow]]ing water, however, may push animals through wall grates and vertical bars, and both are vulnerable to level 2 [[building destroyer]]s. For the ultimate in aqueduct filtering, install a floor grate (or floor bars) such that the water flows ''upwards'' through the grate into your reservoir using [[pressure]], and ensure that building destroyers coming from that direction cannot otherwise path into your fortress.

If you are bucket-filling a well, the concern instead is to make sure that the water source is safe. Make sure it isn't full of crocodiles or carp. (Or other dangerous fishy things)

Even if monsters do get into your well, they're rarely a genuine threat, and at worst can give your dwarves an unhappy thought by scaring them. However, if your reservoir is filled right to the brim, carp and other fish CAN attack your dwarves, just as they would from a river. Also, any amphibious creatures may be able to make their way into your fortress and make a mess. (Keep in mind, zombified fish are amphibious) And, of course, anyone who falls into a well full of predators is pretty much doomed.

Finally, if you are drawing directly from a cavern lake, and have simply opened a hole in its ceiling for the well, any flying creatures in the cavern may also be able to use the well as an access point to your fortress. You could potentially construct a wall surrounding the pathway of the bucket. This would prevent flying creatures from entering, unless they are also capable of swimming. Do not forget the perils of dwarves falling into a well, however, falling into a cavern lake full of cave crocodiles will cause lots of [[fun]].

== Above Ground ==

The previous sections focused mostly on subterranean wells and gravity-filling reservoirs. Now we need to consider the special circumstances of wells built at ground level, above ground level, and simply outdoors.

The main problem is that anything above what was ground level at embark is considered "above ground" and has different behavior, even if enclosed to be indoors. In particular, it will freeze and evaporate according to the temperature. This includes everything on level 0 and -1, unless there is something about them preventing the temperature from removing them, like rivers flowing faster than the water can evaporate out of them.

Enclosing the water, so that it is "indoors" will decrease the rate of evaporation, but there isn't much you can do to prevent water from freezing above ground. (There is a way, but if you're new, you may not enjoy [[#Fighting the Ice|the prospects of actually constructing it]].)

=== Outdoor Wells ===

There are plenty of good reasons to build a well outdoors. First and foremost, to be decorative or thematic. The wells don't necessarily need to be functional if this is your intent. But another use would be as a functional source for an outdoor meeting hall... Or in other words, a vomitorium. Because dwarves will clean themselves in a well, having one in such a vomitorium would just make things more efficient!

Of course, as with any outdoor meeting place, you need to be certain that it is a safe place, where goblins and giant eagles are unlikely to descend upon your sickly party-goers.

=== On The Level ===

Now, about ground level, or specifically, the place where "above ground" and "below ground" meet. Z-levels 0 and -1 on flat maps. If you are on a very hot map, any water open to the sky on these levels will evaporate very quickly. As said before, you can minimize this by simply roofing in the water and making it "indoors". Water that is above ground will freeze in sufficiently cold biomes, regardless of z-level. A roof above the water doesn't prevent freezing.

Also keep in mind the floor type. Murky pools, even when roofed over, will behave as though they are open to the sky. This is because murky pools, rivers, oceans, etc. all have a special floor tile which modifies the behavior of any water above it. Simply putting floor tiles on the basin of a murky pool can minimize evaporation, but it will eliminate rain refill.

If you dig a channel down to z-2, the water in it will not evaporate very quickly at all, as it's "under ground".

=== In the Sky ===

And now for the final type of well, and this one is very uncommon, you may wish to build a well high above ground. A well tower may indeed be a cool, though completely non-functional idea. Be aware what the environmental conditions are before you do this, of course, as the only real way of dealing with ice involves pumping magma up the tower as well.

In all honesty, a sky well would be built and function pretty much the same as a subterranean well. The only difference is that it is very difficult to get the water up there. You need to build a pumpstack, lifting the water, level by level, pump by pump, up to your reservoir. And you need to lift the water to the top of your reservoir, as pumps will not pump upward naturally.

== Style and Design ==

This section discusses purely aesthetic and functional decisions people have made in the past with their wells, as well as advanced designs.

=== Fighting the Ice ===

So you have a frozen well, and you want to know how to keep it liquid do ya? You're going to need to build a heated reservoir.

First, have magma on your map. If you don't, dig deeper and be prepared for [[Fun]].

Next, you need some [[magma-safe]] materials. You'll need this to build floodgates and pumps.

Now, you need to pipe and pump the magma with the magma-safe pumping equipment. Be sure to use mechanical power for these, as dwarves are too likely to kill themselves.

The magma needs to be piped under your reservoir. That is to say, there needs to be just one floor tile between the two, just enough to keep them from touching and turning into an accidental obsidian factory.

The magma needs to be piped around under your water, it needs to keep on moving or the water will freeze again. That means it needs an infinite, cyclical flow, and even if you get all of this built and working, it will only melt one level, which means the reservoir can only be 1 level deep.

That's a lot of work to have an above-ground well in a frozen environment. Probably easier to melt a pool and drain it.

=== Ultimate Party Machine ===

It is possible to pour water through the mouth of a well from above. This frequently causes water to spray out in a mist, which pleases dwarves. If you power it, you could have a pump stack draw water from beneath the well and pour it back in from above, turning your fancy meeting hall into a FANCIER meeting hall! Throw in some platinum statues while you're at it.

=== Well Stacking ===

Have you ever needed to have more than one well on multiple z-levels and disliked the work of setting up multiple reservoirs? Well fret no more!

Because a well can function through the opening of another well, it's possible to stack well openings through z-levels! So long as they're all in a perfectly straight line above each other, and there's at least 3/7 tiles of water somewhere directly below them, they will all be perfectly functional!

Of course, if you go too far, this may become something of a safety concern, as dwarves would plummet mile after mile, through dozens of well openings before finally hitting the bottom.

=== Multitasking Wells ===

Because wells aren't actually USED all that often, and are usually more valuable as decorations, there isn't really any reason to keep its reservoir completely full all the time. So, what can you do with a giant bucket of water in the middle of your fortress? Well, luckily, there are a few other reasons you could have for piping water around.

First, you need to "irrigate" stone floors before you can actually farm on them. Instead of making a separate, elaborate irrigation system for just one use, (mud doesn't dry naturally, though it could be smoothed/floored over and disappears when reclaiming a fortress) why not just drain it out of your well?

You could also use your well as a water reservoir for an obsidian factory. Fill a chamber with a single layer of magma, then pour your well's contents over it!

You could use your well to dispose of unwanted life forms, such as siegers, elves, goblins, nobles and other miscellaneous things that wandered into your cage traps. (This only works on non-amphibious creatures)

=== The Dwarven Toilet ===

I built this in an experiment. At the top of the reservoir is a platform with a pressure plate on it. When the pressure plate senses 5/7 water, it triggers, closing the fill pipe, and opening the drain. So, when you pull the lever to fill the thing, it fills up to the top, then drains. Just like a giant toilet. I have not found any functional use for this. In all honesty, it was a simple accident I made, connecting the pressure plate to the drain as well as the plug. But, hey, what the heck, I made a giant toilet. There ya' go. Perhaps you could use this to get rid of the crud that accumulates in a well as dwarves clean themselves in it?

This can be VERY useful when you have a larger reservoir that fills your well. This way every pull of the lever delivers a set amount of water into your well. Thus eliminating1 the risk of flooding due to the well becoming pressurized. 
1Beware dwarves that throw tantrums, they randomly pull levers.

{{Category|Guides}}
{{Category|Design}}

[[ru:Well_guide]]

User:Nand

2025-04-28T10:00:55Z

Nand: Created page with "Posts as Panando on bay12forums and /u/BlakeMW on reddit."

Posts as Panando on bay12forums and /u/BlakeMW on reddit.

Stress

2025-04-28T09:58:50Z

Nand: Improved the correctness of the technical details of how stress works.

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[[File:stress_preview.jpg|thumb|300px|right|At least it wasn't [[Surroundings#Evil|blood rain]]... ''Art by theRealOdieman'']] '''Stress''' is a condition that is similar to unhappiness in earlier versions. It will cause the dwarf to flash with a downward red arrow, and {{DFtext|Over the long term, Urist McStressed has been under a great deal of stress.|6:1}} will show on their [[thoughts and preferences]] tab.

Dwarves under stress for long periods of time will develop worse symptoms of stress, e.g: {{DFtext|Urist McStressed has become haggard and drawn due to the tremendous stresses placed on him.|4:1}}. In the short term, excessive levels of stress will lead to temporary '''emotional breakdowns''' – throwing [[tantrum]]s, slipping into [[depression]], or stumbling around [[oblivious]]ly. If they're under stress for prolonged periods of time, dwarves will become Harrowed, their thoughts and preferences tab reading: {{DFtext|Urist McStressed has been utterly harrowed by the nightmare that is his tragic life.|5:1}} If this persists for long enough, it will lead to '''[[insanity]]'''.

Animals can also be stressed, which seems to happen when an animal has been constrained for a long time.

==Technical details==

Internally, stress level is tracked by two numbers, where a negative number is good and a positive number is bad – it is not possible to view these numbers without third-party [[utilities]].

'''Short-term stress''' ranges from -100000 to 100000, it is affected by [[emotion]]s and directly correlates with a creature's mood: the happy or angry emojis which are labelled "stress level" in game and range from escatic to miserable.

'''Long-term stress''' ranges from -50000 to 120000, it is a gradual accumulation of short-term stress, the only indication of a dwarf's long term stress are statuses: stressed at +25000, haggard at +50,000 and harrowed at +100,000.

Only if both short-term and long-term stress are high does a creature become prone to '''emotional breakdowns'''.

Under "ideal" circumstances long term stress can increase by at most 20,160 per year, and decrease by at most 43,564 per year [https://www.reddit.com/r/dwarffortress/comments/1k9dp6a/haggard_the_incurable_but_misunderstood_dwarven/mpee3l4/], this means it takes several years for a dwarf to become haggard even if the dwarf is in a very bad mood, but a full recovery also takes several years even if the dwarf is in an excellent mood - but in the meantime the good mood does protect against breakdowns.

Despite the nomenclature "short-term stress" it can take several years to improve a dwarf's short-term stress level from miserable to ecstatic.

== Detailed mechanics ==
=== How stress works ===
First, to bust a myth: [[discipline]] is not an indicator of how well a dwarf copes with stressful situations, but there is a correlation that will be explained below.

When a dwarf experiences an emotion, whether from an immediate experience or from revisiting a long-term memory, a certain number of points, which will be called "stress points", are added to that dwarf's "stress score". The dwarf keeps a running tally of their stress points, determining their mood. Unhappy thoughts add to the stress score, happy thoughts subtract from the stress score. It is confirmed that there are only two things that affect stress: the emotions that a dwarf experiences, each of which is shown on the thoughts and preferences screen, and a return towards a neutral point over time.

There are three key personality traits which determine a dwarf's propensity to experience stress: bravery, which determines how fast a dwarf accumulates stress; stress vulnerability, which determines how much stress a dwarf can experience before breaking [note 4]; and anxiety, which determines how fast a dwarf dissipates stress. A fourth trait, depression propensity, seems to be related to the difficulty of recovering an unhappy dwarf, but requires additional testing.

There are some experiences which have a constant and predictable effect across all dwarves and others that are much more variable. In assessing the impact of an experience on a dwarf's stress score, a key measure is whether or not the resulting emotion was promoted to a dwarf's long term memory, as these tend to be the stronger emotions and are those that are revisited.

The results below are taken from a sample of 300 dwarves across 3 fortresses, where all dwarves had been in their fortress for more than 2 years. The fortresses were designed to "molly-coddle" the dwarves, shielding them as much as possible from rain, death, corpses and miasma, and promoting happy thoughts as much as possible (after year 2, because it took 2 years and 5 migrant waves to reach that point with the infrastructure). The fortresses each had 150+ dwarves and had been run for 7 years. The overall mood of the fortresses after 7 years was 45% happy to ecstatic, 55% fine, less than 1% unhappy (4 dwarves in total).

=== Stress reducers ===
==== Bedrooms ====
More than 99% of dwarves had short-term memories of feeling blissful sleeping in a bedroom like a personal palace, 89% were also experiencing long-term memories of remembering feeling blissful about their bedroom. This was achieved by giving them a 3x3 engraved bedroom.

==== Dining room ====
88% of dwarves had short-term memories of feeling blissful eating in a legendary dining room, 70% were also experiencing long term memories of remembering feeling blissful about their dining room. This was achieved by digging out a 15 x 20 room and designating it as a dining room; it doesn't take much to impress them in this regard, but to force them to eat there, you have to restrict placing unallocated tables anywhere else in the fortress.

==== Meaningful work ====
93% of dwarves were satisfied at work, 62% had long term memories of being satisfied at work. Curiously, a number of dwarves had two memories of being satisfied at work. Satisfaction is a low-strength emotion, so it is suspected that this is the result of a long-term memory being overwritten by a stronger short-term memory of a different group, then cycling back in again because it was a frequent experience always ready to be promoted back from short-term memory. From what was seen, hauling is not a satisfying job, but any job which enables a skill increase can be satisfying work, so long as it doesn't conflict with a dwarf's personality (for example, a butcher will get unhappy thoughts if they have a deep respect for nature).

==== Military training ====
Military training is HUGE. After year 2 in each fortress, all dwarves were put into squads (no armor, no weapons), with each squad scheduled for one or two months of military training per year. 93% of dwarves had happy long-term memories of something relating to their military training, with 34% having more than one positive long-term memory. Gratitude or pleasure from sparring was the most common, with interest in improving a military skill (wrestling, dodging, biting, kicking, etc.) and pride in teaching a military skill also widely present. Additionally several dwarves were satisfied remembering improving discipline and/or observation. The effect of military training in clogging long-term memory with happy thoughts correlates with an increase in discipline, which is a common association between high-discipline dwarves suffering from low stress. No dwarves had negative long-term memories, despite some not liking warfare or not respecting military skills. A fairly reliable method to turn around unhappy dwarves using military training was noted, which will be discussed further below.

==== Other things ====
All dwarves had access to masterwork clothing, walked past an indoor [[waterfall]] frequently, were able to acquire an item, read books, and walked past fine furniture frequently, but less than 25% of dwarves retained their thoughts about these things in long-term memory. Spending time with family and pets will do quite a lot to help reduce a dwarf's stress.

=== Stress increasers ===
The median number of unhappy long-term memories across the sample of dwarves was only 1; most of the things that they were unhappy about in the long-term were things that would eventually be promoted to core memory: death, miasma, trauma, etc. Their other stress increasers were less than 1% of dwarves: being annoyed or irritated remembering being accosted by vermin; 1 dwarf was uneasy remembering becoming a parent; 1 dwarf was annoyed remembering drinking without a mug, which is suspected to have been a lingering long-term memory clogging their thoughts for several years; another was worried dwelling on not being able to help somebody and another was frustrated remembering the lack of traditions.

=== Mixed and/or variable effects on stress ===
==== Praying ====
77% had long-term memories of wonder or enrapture from praying, 10% had negative long-term memories from being unable to pray, some dwarves had both positive and negative long term memories about praying. All dwarves had multiple positive and negative short-term thoughts about praying and not being able to pray. The balance of positive to negative long-term memories shows the effect of dwarves being unable to hold more than one thought of the same group in their short-term memory. As long as they get to pray more than once a year, they'll have a strong positive short-term memory about a deity and won't have room in their short-term memory to retain the negative thoughts from not being able to pray to the multiple gods that they wanted to.

==== Performances ====
All dwarves had multiple short-term memories about watching a performance or performing. However, a minority of thoughts were negative (about 5% were bored or embarrassed). Only a few dwarves had long-term memories related to performances/performing, all of them positive.

==== Arguments ====
Short-term memories about being upset getting into an argument were ubiquitous, and most dwarves had multiple short-term memories about arguing. However, only 3 dwarves were angry remembering getting into an argument (although 1 dwarf was exhilarated remembering this).

=== Things that didn't matter ===
Some things were ubiquitous in dwarves' short-term memories, but didn't appear at all in long-term memories. These are often the things that worry players seemingly more than the dwarves themselves. These were: being away from family; being away from friends; being sad at being separated from a loved one; not having decent meals; being unable to craft an item; and being unable to wander.

=== Recovering unhappy dwarves ===
From time to time, some dwarves would get stressed. In one test, an accident with a "malfunctioning" atom smasher occurred, which rained rotten body parts and gore all over the farmers. A dwarf in a strange mood was accidentally made to go berserk after the misapplication of a burrow command, several dwarves and their pets died of old age – usually in the middle of high-traffic corridors, and there were the usual unavoidable mishaps with visitors turning werebeast, trying to stage a coup, etc. Typically, around 10% of dwarves registered positive stress scores, with around 3% being so unhappy that they would be actively made to recover.

The first approach to trying to recover the stressed-out dwarves was to give them special attention and try to satisfy any unmet [[need]]s, in an attempt to overwrite some low-strength unhappy memories with happy memories. This had mixed results, was slow and took a lot of micromanagement. It would typically take about 2 years to turn around a mildly stressed dwarf.

During testing, a far more reliable and quick method to turn around stressed-out dwarves was found, using military training, in the form of a special "Therapy" military squad which was assigned to train all year round, and the squad was set to active/training on the squad menu. However, the squad was not assigned any barracks to train in. Any dwarf that was getting a bit down about things would be put into the Therapy Squad for a while. When a dwarf is scheduled to train, but has nowhere to train, they will actively seek to satisfy any needs. Rather than hang around with the "no job" label, they'll dash off to the tavern to socialise, the library to learn, the temple to pray or guildhall to increase their skills. It is far more effective, and easier to manage, than removing all of their tasks and hoping that they'll do something to cheer themselves up. It seems that they replace their duty to train with a duty to fulfill their needs.

After deploying this method and expanding it so that all dwarves got one month a year in which they were scheduled to train, but had no barracks, positive stress scores dropped to around 5%, with only 1 dwarf ever reaching the point of being unhappy (that particular dwarf being subjected to quite a lot of cycling up and down the stress levels to see what happened).

Of the 4 dwarves that became unhappy enough to be seemingly unrecoverable (3 from before the Therapy Squad method was discovered), all 4 dwarves had a depression propensity stat that was extremely low, meaning that they "were often sad and dejected". There were other dwarves in the fortresses with extreme depression propensities that didn't become unhappy, so it is unknown if this was a coincidence or whether it's just hard to turn around these dwarves once they reach an unhappy state.

=== Combat hardness and immunity to corpses/stress ===
There is a very old piece of code which measures the "[[Combat hardening|combat hardness]] value" of a dwarf. This value is listed as "detachment" in [[Utilities#Dwarf_Therapist|Dwarf Therapist]], although it doesn't appear in the default grid views. Toady said that when a dwarf sees guts and stuff, including seeing people die, it increases their combat hardness, which will eventually lead them to become immune to seeing corpses. This code predates the current stress system and is still active. Anecdotal reports of dwarves becoming immune to seeing corpses due to constant combat exist, which is why it was brought to question. It was attempted to bring some dwarves to the maximum state of "doesn't really care about anything anymore", but after 10 years of running a fortress with one squad dedicated to fighting goblins released from cages, only the intermediate level of "is a hardened individual" was reached. There was fighting indoors, so it required frequent breaks to remove corpses to prevent miasma. There was an attempt at discovering which aspects of the stress system would be overridden by combat hardness – which things would a dwarf become immune to? Would it be everything? Do they not feel happiness or unhappiness about anything anymore? Can a dwarf still go berserk? Trying to test that concurrently with the rest of the experiment didn't sit well alongside the molly-coddle approach, so it was not pursued further, but knowing the effect on all aspects of stress would be interesting.{{verify}}

Anecdotal evidence [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=177991.0] from version 0.47.05 seems to indicate that dwarves gain combat hardness much more quickly than they did in previous versions. Even without taking any special measures, it seems common for most of the adult population to have some level of combat hardness, and it's not unusual for civilians who have never been in combat to reach the highest level of "doesn't really care about anything anymore".

=== Conclusion ===
To keep stress down, keep the things that end up in core memory to a minimum, or at least restrict the variety of strong unhappy memory groups that dwarves are exposed to in any particular year – in particular, seeing corpses, sentient things die, being exposed to miasma and rain and vomiting because of the sun. If you plan on fighting rather than turtling, plan to battle underground so that the dwarves aren't exposed to sun and rain at the same time as death and corpses. If a dwarf sees a corpse, get them hauling all of the corpses, as they'll only remember the first one. If they're exposed to rain, get them to do all of the outdoor work quickly and keep the rest of the dwarves dry. If you have to pick somebody to do unsavory work, choose the dwarf(s) with the best mix of bravery, stress vulnerability and anxiety.

Clog a dwarf's long-term memory slots with happy thoughts that can't be promoted. Give them a big room to dine in very early on; even if they only have one table and chair to eat on, it'll still count, but get them enough chairs and tables as soon as possible. Give them a wide variety of things to have happy thoughts about, as multiple low-strength short-term memories have a chance at cycling out low-strength unhappy memories and preventing them from sticking. Put everybody in a military squad as soon as you can afford the labor – don't worry about weapons and armor; just get them training in any old dirt hole of a barracks for at least one month of the year (you might want to make sure that your mayor and trader are training over winter when there are no caravans or delegations). As soon as you can give everybody a 3x3 engraved bedroom, that's a sure-fire mood enhancer. Make sure that you have at least one temple and that the dwarves have a bit of downtime to pray.

== Stress factors ==
Stress is affected by the [[emotion]]s a dwarf experiences upon encountering certain circumstances; these encounters are temporarily shown as [[thought]]s in the dwarf's [[profile]], though the resulting stress can linger long after the thoughts are gone. The strength of the emotions (and the resulting stress values) vary based on the dwarf's [[personality]]. [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=170698.0 Controlled testing] has shown that these sources of stress build up less in dwarves with high [BRAVERY] and low [STRESS_VULNERABILITY]. [ANXIETY_PROPENSITY] affects the rate at which dwarves dissipate stress. For example, being out in the sun seems to affect dwarves quite strongly in terms of stress.

Emotions and the level of stress or stress relief they cause are detailed in the table of [[emotion]]s. Note that one event may cause different emotions for different dwarves (and, occasionally, for the same dwarf). The exact mechanisms of how it's decided what emotions are to follow are as of yet unclear, but there's a general consensus that it depends on both severity of factors and the personality of the dwarf in question.

Here is a partial table of emotions and what they can be caused by:

{|class="wikitable sortable"
!Emotion
!Cause
|-
|{{DFtext|adoration|3:1}}
|Giving birth to a [[baby]], becoming a parent
|-
|{{DFtext|admiration|3:1}}
|Being next to completely sublime [[furniture]], watching a [[performer|performance]]
|-
|{{DFtext|affection|3:1}}
|Interacting with a [[pet]], adopting a new [[pet]], forming a bond with the [[animal training|trained]] animal, talking with a [[friend]], making a new [[friend]]
|-
|{{DFtext|aroused|3:1}}
|Talking with the spouse, watching a [[performer|performance]]
|-
|{{DFtext|caring|3:1}}
|Giving somebody [[food]]
|-
|{{DFtext|empathy|3:1}}
|Being yelled at/cried on by an unhappy citizen
|-
|{{DFtext|enraptured|3:1}}
|Communing with [[deity]]
|-
|{{DFtext|fondness|3:1}}
|Making a new [[friend]], talking with a [[friend]] or a sibling, interacting with a [[pet]]
|-
|{{DFtext|gratitude|3:1}}
|Being rescued, receiving [[water]] or [[food]], being granted residency, being elected as [[mayor]], [[sparring]]
|-
|{{DFtext|lustful|3:1}}
|Talking with the spouse
|-
|{{DFtext|love|3:1}}
|Talking with a parent, spouse, or child, gaining a sibling
|-
|{{DFtext|passionate|3:1}}
|Talking with the spouse
|-
|{{DFtext|pleasure|3:1}}
|Being next to fine/very fine/splendid/completely sublime [[furniture]], acquiring well-crafted items, putting on a well-crafted/exceptional item, [[Performer|performing]], viewing something on display
|-
|{{DFtext|proud|3:1}}
|Owning a high quality [[furniture]], being elected as a [[mayor]], bringing somebody to [[rest]] in bed
|-
|{{DFtext|repentant|3:1}}
|Being confined
|-
|{{DFtext|sympathy|3:1}}
|Giving somebody [[water]] or [[food]], bringing somebody to [[rest]] in bed
|-
|{{DFtext|tenderness|3:1}}
|Talking with the spouse, bringing somebody to [[rest]] in bed
|-
|{{DFtext|amused|2:1}}
|Watching a [[performer|performance]]
|-
|{{DFtext|blissful|2:1}}
|Dining in a legendary [[dining room]], sleeping in a good [[bedroom]]/great [[bedroom]]/[[bedroom]] like a personal palace, having a bath, becoming a parent, [[Performer|performing]]
|-
|{{DFtext|content|2:1}}
|Being able to [[rest]] and recuperate, eating a fine/pretty decent meal, having a fine/pretty decent drink, putting on a well-crafted/finely-crafted/superior item, sleeping in a [[bedroom]] like a personal palace, having a bath, being near to a [[waterfall]], discussing or pondering a [[topic]]
|-
|{{DFtext|delighted|2:1}}
|Eating a truly decent/legendary meal, putting on an exceptional item, being near to a [[waterfall]], watching a [[performer|performance]]
|-
|{{DFtext|elated|2:1}}
|Having [[justice|punishment]] delayed, being [[mayor|elected]]
|-
|{{DFtext|enjoyment|2:1}}
|Being near to favourite [[animal]] in a [[cage]], [[Performer|performing]], watching a [[performer|performance]], playing with [[toy]]s, playing make believe
|-
|{{DFtext|euphoric|2:1}}
|[[Alcohol|Drinking]]
|-
|{{DFtext|expectant|2:1}}
|Discussing or pondering {[[topic]]}
|-
|{{DFtext|free|2:1}}
|Being released from confinement
|-
|{{DFtext|gaiety|2:1}}
|[[Performer|Performing]]
|-
|{{DFtext|happy|2:1}}
|Adopting a new [[pet]], being granted residency
|-
|{{DFtext|hope|2:1}}
|Being released from confinement
|-
|{{DFtext|jovial|2:1}}
|Having a [[mandate]] deadline met
|-
|{{DFtext|joy|2:1}}
|[[Performer|Performing]]
|-
|{{DFtext|relieved|2:1}}
|Being rescued, bringing somebody to [[rest]] in bed, eating vermin to survive, having [[justice|punishment]] delayed, being near to a [[waterfall]], being released from confinement, yelling at/crying on [[mayor|somebody in charge]]
|-
|{{DFtext|satisfied|2:1}}
|Receiving [[water]] or [[food]], being successful at work, mastering a [[skill]], teaching a [[skill]], producing a [[masterwork]], creating an [[artifact]], improving a [[skill]], reading a [[book]], learning a [[book]], felling a [[tree]], [[slaughter]]ing an animal, getting into an argument, [[cage|caging]] a [[creature]], being granted residency, realizing the value of leisure time, realizing the value of nature, realizing nuances of independence, realizing nuances of fairness, realizing nuances of loyalty, realizing nuances of law, realizing nuances of leisure time, realizing nuances of friendship, realizing the value of knowledge, realizing the worthlessness of eloquence, realizing the worthlessness of power
|-
|{{DFtext|triumph|2:1}}
|Killing somebody, being [[mayor|elected]]/re-elected
|-
|{{DFtext|optimistic|2:1}}
|Being able to [[rest]] and recuperate, having a [[mandate]] deadline met
|-
|{{DFtext|astonished|1:1}}
|Having [[justice|punishment]] reduced, having [[justice|punishment]] delayed, being [[mayor|elected]]
|-
|{{DFtext|awe|1:1}}
|Being next to completely sublime [[furniture]]
|-
|{{DFtext|excited|1:1}}
|[[Performer|Performing]]
|-
|{{DFtext|eager|1:1}}
|Being [[mayor|elected]]/re-elected
|-
|{{DFtext|exhilarated|1:1}}
|Being [[combat|attacked]], getting into an argument, a [[sparring]] session, [[Performer|performing]]
|-
|{{DFtext|interested|1:1}}
|Being next to fine/very fine/splendid/completely sublime [[furniture]], learning [[necromancer|the secrets of life and death]], watching a [[performer|performance]], being taught a [[skill]], reading a [[book]], learning a [[book]], realizing the value of nature, realizing nuances of perseverance, realizing nuances of craftsmanship, realizing the worthlessness of fairness, viewing something on display
|-
|{{DFtext|wonder|1:1}}
|Being taught a [[skill]], learning a [[book]], communing with {[[deity]]}, realizing the worthlessness of perseverance, realizing the value of family, realizing the value of competition, realizing the value of cooperation, realizing the value of loyalty
|-
|{{DFtext|accepting|7:0}}
|Seeing somebody's [[corpse|dead body]], having a [[mandate]] ignored, being caught in the [[rain]], being forced to drink [[vomit]], being forced to endure the decay of a [[pet]], retching on a [[miasma]], having to conduct an official [[meeting]] in a bedroom (many negative memories may change to acceptance as a result of the personality-change system)
|-
|{{DFtext|ambivalent|7:0}}
|Delayed punishment of a [[crime|criminal]], putting on a well-crafted/finely-crafted item
|-
|{{DFtext|grim satisfaction|5:1}}
|Seeing somebody's death
|-
|{{DFtext|suspicious|5:1}}
|Having a [[mandate]] ignored
|-
|{{DFtext|aggravated|6:0}}
|Being pestered by [[fly|flies]]
|-
|{{DFtext|agitated|6:0}}
|Being utterly [[sleep]]-deprived
|-
|{{DFtext|annoyed|6:0}}
|Being caught in the [[rain]], being caught in a [[weather|snow storm]], being [[cave adaptation|out in the sun]], eating without a [[table]] or [[chair]], eating without a proper [[dining room]], [[sleep]]ing on dirt/rocks/cave floor/in the grass, drinking water without a [[well]], suffering a minor [[injury]], choking on [[cave-in]] dust, choking on [[smoke]], being accosted by hated [[vermin]], being pestered by [[fly|flies]], drinking without a [[goblet]], [[cup]] or [[mug]]
|-
|{{DFtext|anxious|6:0}}
|Discussing/pondering (topic)
|-
|{{DFtext|bitter|6:0}}
|Wearing tattered [[clothes]], getting into an argument
|-
|{{DFtext|bored|6:0}}
|Watching a [[performer|performance]], being unoccupied, being unable to practice a craft, being unable to practice a martial art, not learning anything, being unable to use abstract thinking, being unable to wander, being unable to fight, being unable to hear eloquent speech, lack of trouble-making, doing nothing creative, generally leading an unexciting life
|-
|{{DFtext|confused|6:0}}
|Being knocked out during a [[cave-in]]
|-
|{{DFtext|contemptuous|6:0}}
|Getting into an argument
|-
|{{DFtext|dejected|6:0}}
|Being caught in the [[rain]], being caught in a [[weather|snow storm]], wearing tattered [[clothes]], lack of decent meals, being unable to pray to {[[deity]]}, being kept from [[alcohol]], being unable to admire art, being unable to acquire something, being unable to be extravagant, lack of introspection, generally being unable to take it easy
|-
|{{DFtext|disappointed|6:0}}
|Having a [[mandate]] deadline missed
|-
|{{DFtext|disillusioned|6:0}}
|An [[animal]] was convicted of a [[crime]]
|-
|{{DFtext|dislike|6:0}}
|Talking to [[grudge|somebody annoying]]
|-
|{{DFtext|embarrassed|6:0}}
|Sleeping without a proper [[room]], sleeping on a dirt/rocks/cave floor/in the grass, wearing tattered [[clothes]], having no [[clothes|shirt]], having no [[clothes|shoes]], being [[clothes|uncovered]], watching a [[performer|performance]], having to conduct an official [[meeting]] in a [[dining room]]
|-
|{{DFtext|exasperated|6:0}}
|Being caught in the [[rain]], being caught in a [[weather|snow storm]], getting into an argument
|-
|{{DFtext|frustrated|6:0}}
|Considering the scarcity of cages and chains, having a [[mandate]] ignored, nobody could be punished for a [[mandate]] failure, getting into an argument, lack of decent meals, being unable to practice a skill, being unable to practice a craft, being unable to practice a martial art, being unable to pray to {[[deity]]}, being kept from [[alcohol]], being unable to acquire something, being unable to wander, being unable to fight, being unable to admire art, lack of abstract thinking, lack of trouble-making, generally leading an unexciting life
|-
|{{DFtext|gloomy|6:0}}
|Being [[Cave adaptation|out in the sun]]
|-
|{{DFtext|glum|6:0}}
|Getting into an argument
|-
|{{DFtext|grouchy|6:0}}
|Being caught in the [[rain]], being caught in a [[weather|snow storm]], being [[cave adaptation|out in the sun]], eating the same old [[food]], drinking the same old [[booze]]
|-
|{{DFtext|guilty|6:0}}
|Being confined, being able to [[rest]] and recuperate, being rescued
|-
|{{DFtext|indignant|6:0}}
|Being forced to endure the decay of a (dead) [[friend]], delayed punishment of a [[crime|criminal]]
|-
|{{DFtext|insulted|6:0}}
|Being forced to endure the decay of a (dead) [[friend]], getting into an argument
|-
|{{DFtext|irritated|6:0}}
|Being [[cave adaptation|out in the sun]], being [[hungry]]/[[thirsty]]/[[sleep|drowsy]], eating at crowded [[table]], wearing old/tattered [[clothes]], sleeping uneasily due to [[noise]]
|-
|{{DFtext|isolated|6:0}}
|Being unable to find [[mayor|somebody in charge]] to yell at
|-
|{{DFtext|lonely|6:0}}
|Being away from family, being away from [[friend]]s, being away from people, being unable to make merry, being unable to make romance
|-
|{{DFtext|regretful|6:0}}
|Toppling something over, starting a fist fight, throwing something, becoming a parent
|-
|{{DFtext|resentful|6:0}}
|Giving somebody [[water]], experiencing trauma, getting into an argument
|-
|{{DFtext|restless|6:0}}
|Being able to [[rest]] and recuperate, being unable to practice a craft, being unable to practice a martial art, being unable to learn, being unable to use abstract thinking, being unable to argue, lack of trouble-making, doing nothing creative, generally leading an unexciting life
|-
|{{DFtext|self-pity|6:0}}
|Being away from family, being away from friends, being unable to argue, being unable to fight, being unable to make merry, being unable to practice a craft, being unable to practice a martial art, being unable to wander, lack of abstract thinking, being unoccupied, doing nothing creative, not learning anything, generally leading an unexciting life
|-
|{{DFtext|uneasy|6:0}}
|Being near to hated [[vermin]] in a [[cage]], being caught in [[evil weather|freakish weather]], seeing somebody's [[corpse|dead body]], being [[clothing|uncovered]], retching on a [[miasma]], being [[combat|attacked]], being attacked by [[undead|the dead]], giving birth to a [[baby]], being unable to pray to {[[deity]]}, lack of decent meals, being kept from [[alcohol]], being unable to be extravagant, being unable to help anybody, being unable to admire art, being unable to acquire something, generally being unable to take it easy
|-
|{{DFtext|worried|6:0}}
|Lack of decent meals, being kept from [[alcohol]], being unable to pray to {[[deity]]}, being unable to be extravagant
|-
|{{DFtext|anguish|6:1}}
|Experiencing a [[miscarriage]]
|-
|{{DFtext|ashamed|6:1}}
|Eating without a [[chair]]
|-
|{{DFtext|despair|6:1}}
|Being caught in [[evil weather|freakish weather]]
|-
|{{DFtext|disgusted|6:1}}
|Retching on a [[miasma]], being [[cave adaptation|nauseated by the sun]], drinking water from [[murky pool]], being caught in [[evil weather|freakish weather]], being forced to eat [[vermin]], being forced to drink [[vomit]], being forced to endure the decay of a (dead) [[pet]], being accosted by hated [[vermin]]
|-
|{{DFtext|distressed|6:1}}
|Being pestered by [[fly|flies]]
|-
|{{DFtext|empty|6:1}}
|Having a [[masterwork]] destroyed
|-
|{{DFtext|existential crisis|6:1}}
|Being unable to advance the study of [[topic]]
|-
|{{DFtext|frightened|6:1}}
|Being haunted by [[ghost|the dead]]
|-
|{{DFtext|grieved|6:1}}
|Unexpected [[death]] of somebody
|-
|{{DFtext|hopeless|6:1}}
|Suffering a major [[injury]], being [[cave adaptation|nauseated by the sun]]
|-
|{{DFtext|humiliated|6:1}}
|Eating without a [[table]] or [[chair]], wearing tattered [[clothes]], being [[clothes|uncovered]], not having any [[room]]s, having a [[mandate]] ignored
|-
|{{DFtext|mortified|6:1}}
|Being forced to eat [[vermin]]
|-
|{{DFtext|panicked|6:1}}
|Being [[combat|attacked]], being starving/dehydrated
|-
|{{DFtext|sad|6:1}}
|Being separated from a loved one/loved ones, retching on a [[miasma]]
|-
|{{DFtext|shaken|6:1}}
|Suffering a major [[injury]], being knocked out during [[cave-in]], being forced to endure the decay of a (dead) [[friend]]
|-
|{{DFtext|shocked|6:1}}
|Being [[combat|attacked]], unexpected [[death]] of somebody, having a [[masterwork]] destroyed or [[thief|stolen]]
|-
|{{DFtext|alarmed|4:1}}
|Seeing somebody's [[corpse|dead body]]
|-
|{{DFtext|afraid|4:1}}
|Experiencing trauma
|-
|{{DFtext|angry|4:1}}
|Getting into an argument, being forced to endure the decay of a (dead) [[friend]]
|-
|{{DFtext|ferocity|4:1}}
|Being [[combat|attacked]]
|-
|{{DFtext|horrified|4:1}}
|Seeing somebody die, seeing somebody's [[corpse|dead body]], being caught in a [[evil weather|freakish weather]], being haunted by [[ghost|the dead]], being attacked by [[undead|the dead]]
|-
|{{DFtext|loathing|4:1}}
|Being [[cave adaptation|out in the sun]], being beaten up in the course of [[justice|dwarven justice]] or otherwise
|-
|{{DFtext|outraged|4:1}}
|Being forced to endure the decay of a (dead) child/spouse
|-
|{{DFtext|terrified|4:1}}
|Being in [[combat|conflict]]
|-
|{{DFtext|vengeful|4:1}}
|Joining an existing [[combat|conflict]]
|}

{{Category|Thoughts}}
[[ru:Stress]]

Water wheel

2023-02-01T14:23:20Z

Nand: /* Flowing Water */ Moved pictures further up to improve flow of the page.

{{migrated article}}
{{Quality|Unrated}}
{{V50 machine|name=Water wheel|key=h
|construction=
* 3 [[Log]]s
|construction_job=
[[Carpentry]]
|power=Needs 10 power. Generates 100 power. Net gain of 90 power.
}}{{av}}

A '''water wheel''' is a [[machine component]] that provides [[power]] via water [[flow]].* To build a water wheel, select {{key|b}}uild menu and choose {{key|m}}achines/fluids. It requires 3 [[wood]] and generates 90 net power, which can be used for operating one or more [[Screw pump|pumps]] or [[mill]]s. You can use [[axle]]s and [[Gear assembly|gears]] to distribute the power produced by a water wheel, or connect the machinery directly.

Waterwheels do ''not'' work with [[waterfall]]s, nor in magma — it takes water that is "[[flow]]ing" according to the DF use of the term.

(* Dwarf Fortress' version of "flow" is not intuitive - read the article for a full understanding.)

''For a basic overview of how the different machine parts work and work together, see [[machinery]].''

== Construction ==
The [[carpentry]] labor is needed for construction.

A water wheel occupies 3 adjacent tiles (N-S or E-W axis, no diagonals). It is the [[Wood#Types|color]] of the first wood selected for it, so you could build a red wheel with one piece of [[goblin-cap]] and two of any other wood.

Although it's ''possible'' to build a stable water wheel on solid ground, it won't provide any power. A useful water wheel is built in an empty tile that does not contain a floor, allowing the wheel to be powered by water in the tiles one [[Z-axis|z-level]] below. Floorless tiles are typically made by [[channel|channel]]ling away the floor. To support the water wheel, build it with its central tile orthogonally adjacent to a gear assembly, a horizontal axle, a screw pump, or the central tile of a pre-existing water wheel. Do not hang it from a gear assembly you wish to control with a switch, as a disconnected ("switched off") gear assembly can't support anything and will cause the waterwheel to deconstruct.

[[Power]] is generated from a water wheel as long as it has [[flow]]ing water at a depth of 4/7 or greater under at least one of its tiles. The easiest way to achieve this is by placing the water wheel over a [[river]] or [[brook]]. '''With a brook you must first channel through the surface''' since brooks have a floor of sorts over them.

Furthermore, the body of water beneath the water wheel must be flowing in the correct '''direction''' in order for it to work—for example, placing a N-S water wheel over water flowing straight east or west will have no effect. Since most water in Dwarf Fortress seems to flow diagonally, this is rarely an issue.

==Designs==
'''Key:'''

'''#''' = '''Wall'''
○ = '''Millstone'''
+ = '''Floor'''
~ = '''Water'''
W = '''Water Wheel'''
* = '''Gear Assembly'''
═ = '''Axle'''

{|style="border: 1px solid #0b0; background: #dfd"
|+'''Basic watermill design'''
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|○
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|*
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #7FF; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|}
{|style="border: 1px solid #0b0; background: #dfd"
|+'''Dual watermill design'''
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07f; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #7FF; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|○
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|*
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|}
This is by no means the limit of water power from one location, depending on the width of your river/brook/channel you can stack many waterwheels side-by-side (really big assembles will need to be artificial as there's a limit to how wide the game created water flows get). Just remember to make sure there's a support structure in place before you place the next wheel.

== Perpetual motion ==

Due to the relatively low power draw of a [[screw pump]], a ''self-powering'' assembly can be made with a water wheel that still leaves plenty of excess power for other uses. This is undeniably an [[exploit]] and possibly a bug.

To get it working, you must start the pump manually.*

:''(* Exceptions are [[aquifer]]s, which can sometimes have naturally occurring [[flow]]. This is sometimes a good thing, because then a wheel simply works by itself - or a bad thing, if, for example, you want the wheel to '''not''' provide any power while you build a pump adjacent to it. It's not clear what causes an aquifer to have flow and then keep it - it's difficult to replicate reliably, and can be lost with additional [[channel]]ing, so designs will have to be adapted if such are found.)''

It is good to have a ready source of water to refill the machine, as water tends to escape and evaporate. As the water level decreases, the water wheel may intermittently stop providing power; when the level falls below 4/7, the wheel stops providing power altogether.

'''*REMEMBER TO BUILD AN ORTHOGONAL PUMP, HORIZONTAL AXLE OR GEAR ASSEMBLY BEFORE THE WATER WHEEL*'''

===Dwarven Water Reactor===
{{projects}}
====Key====
:{{Raw Tile|║ ═ ╝ ╚ ╔ ╗ ╣ ╠ ╩ ╦ O|7:0:1}} = '''Wall'''
:{{Raw Tile|+|7:0:0}} = '''Floor'''
:{{Raw Tile|W|6:0:0}} = '''Water Wheel''' with floor underneath
:{{Raw Tile|W|6:1:1}} = '''Water Wheel''' with water underneath
:{{Raw Tile|≈|1:0:1}} = '''Water''' on current level
:{{Raw Tile|≈|3:0:1}} = '''Water''' on level below
:{{Raw Tile|X|2:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|X|2:0:1}} = '''Screw Pump''' drawing from south

This compact design, once started, produces 170 surplus power (less additional power train). While the water reactor provides a perpetual source of mechanical power in abundant amounts, the use of several reactors can cause performance issues. When building your water reactor, it is recommended that you include a method for stopping the reactor once started.

<div style="float:right; margin:2ex 20ex;"> 
{|
!'''Lower Level'''
!
!'''Upper Level'''
|-
|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╦|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|O|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|}

|

|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:0:0}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|≈|3:0:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|}
|}
</div>

[[File:Reactor with mist generator.png|thumb|right|Reactor with Mist Generator attached.]]
[[File:Water channel.png|thumb|right|Lower Level water channel]]

Dig the V-shaped channel and fill it with water (either from an outside source or by designating it as a [[pond]]). On the top level, channel out two tiles under each wheel -- the ones under the center of the wheel and the ones by the pump output. Construct the pump, pumping from the South. Construct the two water wheels. Start the pump manually ( {{k|q}}, {{k|Enter}} ) - if there is enough water*, the "reactor" will start immediately and the pump operator will leave. The water from the north end of the pump will spill over the top-most floor tile, filling that to 7/7 and the two tiles east and west of it to ~5/7, but will not overflow back past the water wheel to the walkway area. Note that for the upper level, no southern walls are shown as none are needed, unless you don't follow the design and do something to create water pressure.

*''(* Estimated minimum depth to prime the reactor is 3/7 to 4/7, though this is not guaranteed.)''
* The ideal amount of water in this design is apparently 63 units of water. In other words six tiles below in the V are full up to 7/7 and three more above are also full up to 7/7 which will generate reliable flow permanently without ever losing any of that water to evaporation. An easy way to do this is to simply leave your pond fill command on after the reactor activates. They will eventually fill it up to the optimal level and stop.
* When you first start the pump, you are likely to have at least some excess water splash out while the fluid level achieves equilibrium - don't locate this in an area that you don't want any mud in.
* If the reactor is connected to a load totaling more than 100 power (including that used by the waterwheels and pump), it may sometimes fail to start. Using a gear assembly to disconnect the load from the reactor before starting it can fix this.

The reactor can be safely halted either by blocking the tile the pump draws water from or "overloading" the reactor (since drawing more power than the reactor supplies will stop the pump that keeps the cycle going until the load is reduced and the pump is manually restarted by dwarf-power). An easy way to halt the reactor is to place a lever-linked hatch cover over the tile the pump draws from. When the cover is closed, the pump can't draw any water, and the reactor stops. More drastically, the reactor will obviously be halted by deconstructing the pump. Deconstructing one wheel will cause a flood (and almost immediately cancel any job order to deconstruct the other components), and deconstructing the pump will cause both wheels to collapse (unless they are attached to [[machinery]] outside them, not shown).

[[Power]] can be routed up from the pump or off to the side from a wheel; the bottom of the pump is difficult to access without danger of water escaping. Routing power from a wheel is typically safe in practice, but it's not impossible for a small amount of water to escape the reactor if it is temporarily overfilled. Power can also be routed out of the reactor via a gear or horizontal axle over the pump's intake tile; while this does not interfere with the pump's operation or present a danger of flooding, it makes it more difficult to shut down the reactor. In either case, it's typically wise to place a [[gear assembly]] linked to a [[lever]] early in the power train in order to allow disconnecting the power at that point, as opposed to needing to halt the entire reactor to stop the power supply.

Expanded versions can produce more power, and can be added later with minimal advance planning; such extensibility is easily attainable by placing disengageable gears on either side of the two water wheels, then attaching minireactors at your leisure, or halting the original reactor by other means. Alternatively, it may be easier to simply produce a second reactor, then connect to the power train at another location.

''Note: If created in an aquifer, there is a chance that the channeled tiles will have a natural [[flow|water flow]] - this will cause the pump to start the moment the first wheel is finished, flooding the work area for the second.''
*This can be countered by connecting something that consumes >90 power while building the waterwheels -19 [[gear assembly|Gear assemblies]] works

===Mini Water Reactor===

This even more compact design is quite similar to the original Dwarven Water Reactor, but can be used in tight spots that do not need more than 80 surplus power. This plan can also be considered an extension unit to the DWR, in that it can be added to one or the other side to provide an additional 80 power to the resulting powertrain. Safely constructing a mini reactor to add to a previously built reactor without potential flooding and/or loss of power is possible only if you first turn off the original reactor. Planning ahead is a much better option, so if you're going to need more than 170 power, build a larger reactor to start with.

As stated previously, the design below produces 80 surplus power (less additional powertrain).

{|
|'''Lower Level'''
|'''Upper Level'''
|-
|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|}

|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:0}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:0:0}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|≈|3:0:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|}
|}

Construction of the mini reactor follows the same order as for the DWR, though the channel is slightly different and only one water wheel is needed. If this is an addition to a full size reactor or set of reactors, all channels will need to be fairly full with water to start the reactor.

===Micro Water Reactor===

Replacing the pump with a dumping [[minecart]], the micro reactor is even more compact and produces up to 90 surplus power per waterwheel (less additional powertrain).

<diagram>
z z-1
+++ ╔═╗
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#@] ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ╚═╝
+++

</diagram>

Channel two adjacent tiles to create a trench, remove the ramp from one trench tile and build a [[Minecart#Track_Stops|track stop]] dumping into the other trench tile. Optionally link a lever to the track stop (to disable and enable the reactor later). Add a minecart to the track stop, build a waterwheel over the trench, and use a pond [[zone]] to fill the ramp tile. The reactor requires 11 units of water for continuous operation; any excess will simply disappear. Once filled, the minecart will dump water into the ramp tile. The water will then flow back to the minecart tile, refilling the minecart and repeating the process endlessly.

For more power, each trench can operate two waterwheels and multiple trenches can be arranged in a row to provide as much power as needed. (Each trench should remain isolated to avoid interference.) This example provides 356 surplus power with only 4 tiles of moving water:

<diagram>
z z-1
+++++
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╔═╦═╗
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╚═╩═╝
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+
+++++

</diagram>

For a more compact design, several trench rows can be staggered to produce a solid block of waterwheels, scaling to whatever size necessary. The example below provides 538 power with 8 tiles of moving water:

<diagram>
z z-1
+++++ ╔═╗
++[#1:0].[#@]++ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╔╩╦╩╗
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╚╦╩╦╝
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
++[#1:0].[#@]++ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+++++ ╚═╝

</diagram>

Note: To avoid access problems, large blocks of micro reactors should be built and filled one layer at a time.

== Flowing Water ==

[[File:Flowing water reactor over.png|thumb|right|Water wheels over a patch of "flowing" water]]
[[File:Flowing Water Reactor Under.png|thumb|right|A screw pump produces pressurized water that flows off the map edge through carved fortifications, flagging the water as flowing.]]
[[File:Flowing water reactor still.png|thumb|right|The water movement can be cut off and the water retains the "flowing" flag.]]

Waterwheels require water which is flowing; the game will consider water to be flowing under two circumstances - the first is when water spreads, that is, when deeper water flows to an adjacent tile where the water is shallower. This could be called "gradient flow" because it requires the water be flowing from deeper to shallower. Water which doesn't have a gradient - such as stretches of water which are 7/7 deep - is generally not regarded by the game to be flowing even if water is technically being delivered through those tiles.

The second kind of flow the game recognizes is when water flows off the map, either by going off the map edge or disappearing into an aquifer (water which enters an aquifer vanishes from the map, since an aquifer can never become full, even if it's only a single tile). This kind of flow propagates back from the map edge or aquifer sink and causes all or most of the connected water to gain the "Flowing" quality. Water which is flowing off the map counts as flowing even on stretches of 7/7 depth. This kind of flow is most readily observed in brooks, streams and rivers; however artificially constructed dwarf-made water channels function just as effectively, provided that they ultimately flow off the map.
A tile which has been marked as flowing off the map will retain this quality even if water movement is later blocked. This is most readily observed in that a dammed river will continue to power waterwheels, even though the water is no longer flowing off the map. This works equally well for dwarf-made water channels, the flowing quality is so persistent that it will remain even if the area is completely drained and refilled, although while the tiles contain less than 4/7 water they won't power waterwheels regardless.

=== Legitimate artificial rivers ===
If one wishes, one can build an underground river containing 7/7 water which powers water wheels, by allowing water sourced from a river, lake, sea or aquifer to ultimately flow off the map edge in a cavern. This would require building an aqueduct to bring the river to the map edge, since, if the water spreads significantly before flowing off the map edge, the game won't regard it as flowing. Water flowing from a higher aquifer into a lower one will also have legitimate natural flow.

=== Flowing Water Reactors ===

It is possible to exploit the game's definition of flowing water and create patches of water which power waterwheels despite the complete absence of actual water movement. When a channel is dug into an aquifer, the channel will sometimes have "natural flow". However, if water is pumped into an aquifer channel, then that channel will then always have "natural flow". This is because water is regarded as disappearing from the map at that point, and the tiles are marked as flowing water, and will power water wheels - even if the pump is removed.

The other way to create water with natural flow is to allow the water to flow off of the map edge (most commonly through a fortification carved into the map edge, although the edge of the map on the surface or in a cavern can also be used). The body of water will then be marked as flowing, even if the map edge is subsequently blocked by a floodgate or raising bridge. This can even be done with finite water sources such as murky pools, for example digging out a channel next to the map edge, building a floodgate to seal the map edge drain, filling the channel with 4/7 water, opening the floodgate, then closing the floodgate and filling it back up to 4/7 water.

The ethics of these reactors is not particularly different to perpetual motion machines, the conventional perpetual motion machine uses water wheels to generate power, and uses a fraction of that power to move the water with a screw pump. A waterwheel generates 100 power and consumes 10 power, presumably the 10 power consumed represents the energy the waterwheel requires to move the water in front of its blades. But if the water wheel moves water in and of itself, the pump actually becomes unnecessary. The water wheel itself both moves the water and is moved by the water.
[[File:water_wheel_preview.png|thumb|340px|center|Circular versions works much better than the triangular one.]]
{{Translation| dwarven = arel kol | elvish = alu rere | goblin = esp sost | human = thomo pobe}}

{{buildings}}

Water wheel

2023-02-01T08:35:14Z

Nand: /* Flowing Water Reactors */

{{migrated article}}
{{Quality|Unrated}}
{{V50 machine|name=Water wheel|key=h
|construction=
* 3 [[Log]]s
|construction_job=
[[Carpentry]]
|power=Needs 10 power. Generates 100 power. Net gain of 90 power.
}}{{av}}

A '''water wheel''' is a [[machine component]] that provides [[power]] via water [[flow]].* To build a water wheel, select {{key|b}}uild menu and choose {{key|m}}achines/fluids. It requires 3 [[wood]] and generates 90 net power, which can be used for operating one or more [[Screw pump|pumps]] or [[mill]]s. You can use [[axle]]s and [[Gear assembly|gears]] to distribute the power produced by a water wheel, or connect the machinery directly.

Waterwheels do ''not'' work with [[waterfall]]s, nor in magma — it takes water that is "[[flow]]ing" according to the DF use of the term.

(* Dwarf Fortress' version of "flow" is not intuitive - read the article for a full understanding.)

''For a basic overview of how the different machine parts work and work together, see [[machinery]].''

== Construction ==
The [[carpentry]] labor is needed for construction.

A water wheel occupies 3 adjacent tiles (N-S or E-W axis, no diagonals). It is the [[Wood#Types|color]] of the first wood selected for it, so you could build a red wheel with one piece of [[goblin-cap]] and two of any other wood.

Although it's ''possible'' to build a stable water wheel on solid ground, it won't provide any power. A useful water wheel is built in an empty tile that does not contain a floor, allowing the wheel to be powered by water in the tiles one [[Z-axis|z-level]] below. Floorless tiles are typically made by [[channel|channel]]ling away the floor. To support the water wheel, build it with its central tile orthogonally adjacent to a gear assembly, a horizontal axle, a screw pump, or the central tile of a pre-existing water wheel. Do not hang it from a gear assembly you wish to control with a switch, as a disconnected ("switched off") gear assembly can't support anything and will cause the waterwheel to deconstruct.

[[Power]] is generated from a water wheel as long as it has [[flow]]ing water at a depth of 4/7 or greater under at least one of its tiles. The easiest way to achieve this is by placing the water wheel over a [[river]] or [[brook]]. '''With a brook you must first channel through the surface''' since brooks have a floor of sorts over them.

Furthermore, the body of water beneath the water wheel must be flowing in the correct '''direction''' in order for it to work—for example, placing a N-S water wheel over water flowing straight east or west will have no effect. Since most water in Dwarf Fortress seems to flow diagonally, this is rarely an issue.

==Designs==
'''Key:'''

'''#''' = '''Wall'''
○ = '''Millstone'''
+ = '''Floor'''
~ = '''Water'''
W = '''Water Wheel'''
* = '''Gear Assembly'''
═ = '''Axle'''

{|style="border: 1px solid #0b0; background: #dfd"
|+'''Basic watermill design'''
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|○
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|*
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #7FF; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|}
{|style="border: 1px solid #0b0; background: #dfd"
|+'''Dual watermill design'''
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07f; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #7FF; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|○
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|*
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|}
This is by no means the limit of water power from one location, depending on the width of your river/brook/channel you can stack many waterwheels side-by-side (really big assembles will need to be artificial as there's a limit to how wide the game created water flows get). Just remember to make sure there's a support structure in place before you place the next wheel.

== Perpetual motion ==

Due to the relatively low power draw of a [[screw pump]], a ''self-powering'' assembly can be made with a water wheel that still leaves plenty of excess power for other uses. This is undeniably an [[exploit]] and possibly a bug.

To get it working, you must start the pump manually.*

:''(* Exceptions are [[aquifer]]s, which can sometimes have naturally occurring [[flow]]. This is sometimes a good thing, because then a wheel simply works by itself - or a bad thing, if, for example, you want the wheel to '''not''' provide any power while you build a pump adjacent to it. It's not clear what causes an aquifer to have flow and then keep it - it's difficult to replicate reliably, and can be lost with additional [[channel]]ing, so designs will have to be adapted if such are found.)''

It is good to have a ready source of water to refill the machine, as water tends to escape and evaporate. As the water level decreases, the water wheel may intermittently stop providing power; when the level falls below 4/7, the wheel stops providing power altogether.

'''*REMEMBER TO BUILD AN ORTHOGONAL PUMP, HORIZONTAL AXLE OR GEAR ASSEMBLY BEFORE THE WATER WHEEL*'''

===Dwarven Water Reactor===
{{projects}}
====Key====
:{{Raw Tile|║ ═ ╝ ╚ ╔ ╗ ╣ ╠ ╩ ╦ O|7:0:1}} = '''Wall'''
:{{Raw Tile|+|7:0:0}} = '''Floor'''
:{{Raw Tile|W|6:0:0}} = '''Water Wheel''' with floor underneath
:{{Raw Tile|W|6:1:1}} = '''Water Wheel''' with water underneath
:{{Raw Tile|≈|1:0:1}} = '''Water''' on current level
:{{Raw Tile|≈|3:0:1}} = '''Water''' on level below
:{{Raw Tile|X|2:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|X|2:0:1}} = '''Screw Pump''' drawing from south

This compact design, once started, produces 170 surplus power (less additional power train). While the water reactor provides a perpetual source of mechanical power in abundant amounts, the use of several reactors can cause performance issues. When building your water reactor, it is recommended that you include a method for stopping the reactor once started.

<div style="float:right; margin:2ex 20ex;"> 
{|
!'''Lower Level'''
!
!'''Upper Level'''
|-
|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╦|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|O|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|}

|

|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:0:0}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|≈|3:0:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
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|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|}
|}
</div>

[[File:Reactor with mist generator.png|thumb|right|Reactor with Mist Generator attached.]]
[[File:Water channel.png|thumb|right|Lower Level water channel]]

Dig the V-shaped channel and fill it with water (either from an outside source or by designating it as a [[pond]]). On the top level, channel out two tiles under each wheel -- the ones under the center of the wheel and the ones by the pump output. Construct the pump, pumping from the South. Construct the two water wheels. Start the pump manually ( {{k|q}}, {{k|Enter}} ) - if there is enough water*, the "reactor" will start immediately and the pump operator will leave. The water from the north end of the pump will spill over the top-most floor tile, filling that to 7/7 and the two tiles east and west of it to ~5/7, but will not overflow back past the water wheel to the walkway area. Note that for the upper level, no southern walls are shown as none are needed, unless you don't follow the design and do something to create water pressure.

*''(* Estimated minimum depth to prime the reactor is 3/7 to 4/7, though this is not guaranteed.)''
* The ideal amount of water in this design is apparently 63 units of water. In other words six tiles below in the V are full up to 7/7 and three more above are also full up to 7/7 which will generate reliable flow permanently without ever losing any of that water to evaporation. An easy way to do this is to simply leave your pond fill command on after the reactor activates. They will eventually fill it up to the optimal level and stop.
* When you first start the pump, you are likely to have at least some excess water splash out while the fluid level achieves equilibrium - don't locate this in an area that you don't want any mud in.
* If the reactor is connected to a load totaling more than 100 power (including that used by the waterwheels and pump), it may sometimes fail to start. Using a gear assembly to disconnect the load from the reactor before starting it can fix this.

The reactor can be safely halted either by blocking the tile the pump draws water from or "overloading" the reactor (since drawing more power than the reactor supplies will stop the pump that keeps the cycle going until the load is reduced and the pump is manually restarted by dwarf-power). An easy way to halt the reactor is to place a lever-linked hatch cover over the tile the pump draws from. When the cover is closed, the pump can't draw any water, and the reactor stops. More drastically, the reactor will obviously be halted by deconstructing the pump. Deconstructing one wheel will cause a flood (and almost immediately cancel any job order to deconstruct the other components), and deconstructing the pump will cause both wheels to collapse (unless they are attached to [[machinery]] outside them, not shown).

[[Power]] can be routed up from the pump or off to the side from a wheel; the bottom of the pump is difficult to access without danger of water escaping. Routing power from a wheel is typically safe in practice, but it's not impossible for a small amount of water to escape the reactor if it is temporarily overfilled. Power can also be routed out of the reactor via a gear or horizontal axle over the pump's intake tile; while this does not interfere with the pump's operation or present a danger of flooding, it makes it more difficult to shut down the reactor. In either case, it's typically wise to place a [[gear assembly]] linked to a [[lever]] early in the power train in order to allow disconnecting the power at that point, as opposed to needing to halt the entire reactor to stop the power supply.

Expanded versions can produce more power, and can be added later with minimal advance planning; such extensibility is easily attainable by placing disengageable gears on either side of the two water wheels, then attaching minireactors at your leisure, or halting the original reactor by other means. Alternatively, it may be easier to simply produce a second reactor, then connect to the power train at another location.

''Note: If created in an aquifer, there is a chance that the channeled tiles will have a natural [[flow|water flow]] - this will cause the pump to start the moment the first wheel is finished, flooding the work area for the second.''
*This can be countered by connecting something that consumes >90 power while building the waterwheels -19 [[gear assembly|Gear assemblies]] works

===Mini Water Reactor===

This even more compact design is quite similar to the original Dwarven Water Reactor, but can be used in tight spots that do not need more than 80 surplus power. This plan can also be considered an extension unit to the DWR, in that it can be added to one or the other side to provide an additional 80 power to the resulting powertrain. Safely constructing a mini reactor to add to a previously built reactor without potential flooding and/or loss of power is possible only if you first turn off the original reactor. Planning ahead is a much better option, so if you're going to need more than 170 power, build a larger reactor to start with.

As stated previously, the design below produces 80 surplus power (less additional powertrain).

{|
|'''Lower Level'''
|'''Upper Level'''
|-
|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|}

|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:1}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:0}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:0:0}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|≈|3:0:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|}
|}

Construction of the mini reactor follows the same order as for the DWR, though the channel is slightly different and only one water wheel is needed. If this is an addition to a full size reactor or set of reactors, all channels will need to be fairly full with water to start the reactor.

===Micro Water Reactor===

Replacing the pump with a dumping [[minecart]], the micro reactor is even more compact and produces up to 90 surplus power per waterwheel (less additional powertrain).

<diagram>
z z-1
+++ ╔═╗
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#@] ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ╚═╝
+++

</diagram>

Channel two adjacent tiles to create a trench, remove the ramp from one trench tile and build a [[Minecart#Track_Stops|track stop]] dumping into the other trench tile. Optionally link a lever to the track stop (to disable and enable the reactor later). Add a minecart to the track stop, build a waterwheel over the trench, and use a pond [[zone]] to fill the ramp tile. The reactor requires 11 units of water for continuous operation; any excess will simply disappear. Once filled, the minecart will dump water into the ramp tile. The water will then flow back to the minecart tile, refilling the minecart and repeating the process endlessly.

For more power, each trench can operate two waterwheels and multiple trenches can be arranged in a row to provide as much power as needed. (Each trench should remain isolated to avoid interference.) This example provides 356 surplus power with only 4 tiles of moving water:

<diagram>
z z-1
+++++
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╔═╦═╗
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╚═╩═╝
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+
+++++

</diagram>

For a more compact design, several trench rows can be staggered to produce a solid block of waterwheels, scaling to whatever size necessary. The example below provides 538 power with 8 tiles of moving water:

<diagram>
z z-1
+++++ ╔═╗
++[#1:0].[#@]++ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╔╩╦╩╗
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╚╦╩╦╝
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
++[#1:0].[#@]++ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+++++ ╚═╝

</diagram>

Note: To avoid access problems, large blocks of micro reactors should be built and filled one layer at a time.

== Flowing Water ==
Waterwheels require water which is flowing; the game will consider water to be flowing under two circumstances - the first is when water spreads, that is, when deeper water flows to an adjacent tile where the water is shallower. This could be called "gradient flow" because it requires the water be flowing from deeper to shallower. Water which doesn't have a gradient - such as stretches of water which are 7/7 deep - is generally not regarded by the game to be flowing even if water is technically being delivered through those tiles.

The second kind of flow the game recognizes is when water flows off the map, either by going off the map edge or disappearing into an aquifer (water which enters an aquifer vanishes from the map, since an aquifer can never become full, even if it's only a single tile). This kind of flow propagates back from the map edge or aquifer sink and causes all or most of the connected water to gain the "Flowing" quality. Water which is flowing off the map counts as flowing even on stretches of 7/7 depth. This kind of flow is most readily observed in brooks, streams and rivers; however artificially constructed dwarf-made water channels function just as effectively, provided that they ultimately flow off the map.
A tile which has been marked as flowing off the map will retain this quality even if water movement is later blocked. This is most readily observed in that a dammed river will continue to power waterwheels, even though the water is no longer flowing off the map. This works equally well for dwarf-made water channels, the flowing quality is so persistent that it will remain even if the area is completely drained and refilled, although while the tiles contain less than 4/7 water they won't power waterwheels regardless.

=== Legitimate artificial rivers ===
If one wishes, one can build an underground river containing 7/7 water which powers water wheels, by allowing water sourced from a river, lake, sea or aquifer to ultimately flow off the map edge in a cavern. This would require building an aqueduct to bring the river to the map edge, since, if the water spreads significantly before flowing off the map edge, the game won't regard it as flowing. Water flowing from a higher aquifer into a lower one will also have legitimate natural flow.

=== Flowing Water Reactors ===
[[File:Flowing water reactor over.png|thumb|right|Water wheels over a patch of "flowing" water]]
[[File:Flowing Water Reactor Under.png|thumb|right|A screw pump produces pressurized water that flows off the map edge through carved fortifications, flagging the water as flowing.]]
[[File:Flowing water reactor still.png|thumb|right|The water movement can be cut off and the water retains the "flowing" flag.]]

It is possible to exploit the game's definition of flowing water and create patches of water which power waterwheels despite the complete absence of actual water movement. When a channel is dug into an aquifer, the channel will sometimes have "natural flow". However, if water is pumped into an aquifer channel, then that channel will then always have "natural flow". This is because water is regarded as disappearing from the map at that point, and the tiles are marked as flowing water, and will power water wheels - even if the pump is removed.

The other way to create water with natural flow is to allow the water to flow off of the map edge (most commonly through a fortification carved into the map edge, although the edge of the map on the surface or in a cavern can also be used). The body of water will then be marked as flowing, even if the map edge is subsequently blocked by a floodgate or raising bridge. This can even be done with finite water sources such as murky pools, for example digging out a channel next to the map edge, building a floodgate to seal the map edge drain, filling the channel with 4/7 water, opening the floodgate, then closing the floodgate and filling it back up to 4/7 water.

The ethics of these reactors is not particularly different to perpetual motion machines, the conventional perpetual motion machine uses water wheels to generate power, and uses a fraction of that power to move the water with a screw pump. A waterwheel generates 100 power and consumes 10 power, presumably the 10 power consumed represents the energy the waterwheel requires to move the water in front of its blades. But if the water wheel moves water in and of itself, the pump actually becomes unnecessary. The water wheel itself both moves the water and is moved by the water.
[[File:water_wheel_preview.png|thumb|340px|center|Circular versions works much better than the triangular one.]]
{{Translation| dwarven = arel kol | elvish = alu rere | goblin = esp sost | human = thomo pobe}}

{{buildings}}

Water wheel

2023-02-01T08:34:52Z

Nand: /* Flowing Water Reactors */ Added pictures from Steam Edition.

{{migrated article}}
{{Quality|Unrated}}
{{V50 machine|name=Water wheel|key=h
|construction=
* 3 [[Log]]s
|construction_job=
[[Carpentry]]
|power=Needs 10 power. Generates 100 power. Net gain of 90 power.
}}{{av}}

A '''water wheel''' is a [[machine component]] that provides [[power]] via water [[flow]].* To build a water wheel, select {{key|b}}uild menu and choose {{key|m}}achines/fluids. It requires 3 [[wood]] and generates 90 net power, which can be used for operating one or more [[Screw pump|pumps]] or [[mill]]s. You can use [[axle]]s and [[Gear assembly|gears]] to distribute the power produced by a water wheel, or connect the machinery directly.

Waterwheels do ''not'' work with [[waterfall]]s, nor in magma — it takes water that is "[[flow]]ing" according to the DF use of the term.

(* Dwarf Fortress' version of "flow" is not intuitive - read the article for a full understanding.)

''For a basic overview of how the different machine parts work and work together, see [[machinery]].''

== Construction ==
The [[carpentry]] labor is needed for construction.

A water wheel occupies 3 adjacent tiles (N-S or E-W axis, no diagonals). It is the [[Wood#Types|color]] of the first wood selected for it, so you could build a red wheel with one piece of [[goblin-cap]] and two of any other wood.

Although it's ''possible'' to build a stable water wheel on solid ground, it won't provide any power. A useful water wheel is built in an empty tile that does not contain a floor, allowing the wheel to be powered by water in the tiles one [[Z-axis|z-level]] below. Floorless tiles are typically made by [[channel|channel]]ling away the floor. To support the water wheel, build it with its central tile orthogonally adjacent to a gear assembly, a horizontal axle, a screw pump, or the central tile of a pre-existing water wheel. Do not hang it from a gear assembly you wish to control with a switch, as a disconnected ("switched off") gear assembly can't support anything and will cause the waterwheel to deconstruct.

[[Power]] is generated from a water wheel as long as it has [[flow]]ing water at a depth of 4/7 or greater under at least one of its tiles. The easiest way to achieve this is by placing the water wheel over a [[river]] or [[brook]]. '''With a brook you must first channel through the surface''' since brooks have a floor of sorts over them.

Furthermore, the body of water beneath the water wheel must be flowing in the correct '''direction''' in order for it to work—for example, placing a N-S water wheel over water flowing straight east or west will have no effect. Since most water in Dwarf Fortress seems to flow diagonally, this is rarely an issue.

==Designs==
'''Key:'''

'''#''' = '''Wall'''
○ = '''Millstone'''
+ = '''Floor'''
~ = '''Water'''
W = '''Water Wheel'''
* = '''Gear Assembly'''
═ = '''Axle'''

{|style="border: 1px solid #0b0; background: #dfd"
|+'''Basic watermill design'''
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|○
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|*
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #7FF; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|}
{|style="border: 1px solid #0b0; background: #dfd"
|+'''Dual watermill design'''
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07f; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #7FF; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|○
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|*
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|}
This is by no means the limit of water power from one location, depending on the width of your river/brook/channel you can stack many waterwheels side-by-side (really big assembles will need to be artificial as there's a limit to how wide the game created water flows get). Just remember to make sure there's a support structure in place before you place the next wheel.

== Perpetual motion ==

Due to the relatively low power draw of a [[screw pump]], a ''self-powering'' assembly can be made with a water wheel that still leaves plenty of excess power for other uses. This is undeniably an [[exploit]] and possibly a bug.

To get it working, you must start the pump manually.*

:''(* Exceptions are [[aquifer]]s, which can sometimes have naturally occurring [[flow]]. This is sometimes a good thing, because then a wheel simply works by itself - or a bad thing, if, for example, you want the wheel to '''not''' provide any power while you build a pump adjacent to it. It's not clear what causes an aquifer to have flow and then keep it - it's difficult to replicate reliably, and can be lost with additional [[channel]]ing, so designs will have to be adapted if such are found.)''

It is good to have a ready source of water to refill the machine, as water tends to escape and evaporate. As the water level decreases, the water wheel may intermittently stop providing power; when the level falls below 4/7, the wheel stops providing power altogether.

'''*REMEMBER TO BUILD AN ORTHOGONAL PUMP, HORIZONTAL AXLE OR GEAR ASSEMBLY BEFORE THE WATER WHEEL*'''

===Dwarven Water Reactor===
{{projects}}
====Key====
:{{Raw Tile|║ ═ ╝ ╚ ╔ ╗ ╣ ╠ ╩ ╦ O|7:0:1}} = '''Wall'''
:{{Raw Tile|+|7:0:0}} = '''Floor'''
:{{Raw Tile|W|6:0:0}} = '''Water Wheel''' with floor underneath
:{{Raw Tile|W|6:1:1}} = '''Water Wheel''' with water underneath
:{{Raw Tile|≈|1:0:1}} = '''Water''' on current level
:{{Raw Tile|≈|3:0:1}} = '''Water''' on level below
:{{Raw Tile|X|2:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|X|2:0:1}} = '''Screw Pump''' drawing from south

This compact design, once started, produces 170 surplus power (less additional power train). While the water reactor provides a perpetual source of mechanical power in abundant amounts, the use of several reactors can cause performance issues. When building your water reactor, it is recommended that you include a method for stopping the reactor once started.

<div style="float:right; margin:2ex 20ex;"> 
{|
!'''Lower Level'''
!
!'''Upper Level'''
|-
|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╦|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
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</div>

[[File:Reactor with mist generator.png|thumb|right|Reactor with Mist Generator attached.]]
[[File:Water channel.png|thumb|right|Lower Level water channel]]

Dig the V-shaped channel and fill it with water (either from an outside source or by designating it as a [[pond]]). On the top level, channel out two tiles under each wheel -- the ones under the center of the wheel and the ones by the pump output. Construct the pump, pumping from the South. Construct the two water wheels. Start the pump manually ( {{k|q}}, {{k|Enter}} ) - if there is enough water*, the "reactor" will start immediately and the pump operator will leave. The water from the north end of the pump will spill over the top-most floor tile, filling that to 7/7 and the two tiles east and west of it to ~5/7, but will not overflow back past the water wheel to the walkway area. Note that for the upper level, no southern walls are shown as none are needed, unless you don't follow the design and do something to create water pressure.

*''(* Estimated minimum depth to prime the reactor is 3/7 to 4/7, though this is not guaranteed.)''
* The ideal amount of water in this design is apparently 63 units of water. In other words six tiles below in the V are full up to 7/7 and three more above are also full up to 7/7 which will generate reliable flow permanently without ever losing any of that water to evaporation. An easy way to do this is to simply leave your pond fill command on after the reactor activates. They will eventually fill it up to the optimal level and stop.
* When you first start the pump, you are likely to have at least some excess water splash out while the fluid level achieves equilibrium - don't locate this in an area that you don't want any mud in.
* If the reactor is connected to a load totaling more than 100 power (including that used by the waterwheels and pump), it may sometimes fail to start. Using a gear assembly to disconnect the load from the reactor before starting it can fix this.

The reactor can be safely halted either by blocking the tile the pump draws water from or "overloading" the reactor (since drawing more power than the reactor supplies will stop the pump that keeps the cycle going until the load is reduced and the pump is manually restarted by dwarf-power). An easy way to halt the reactor is to place a lever-linked hatch cover over the tile the pump draws from. When the cover is closed, the pump can't draw any water, and the reactor stops. More drastically, the reactor will obviously be halted by deconstructing the pump. Deconstructing one wheel will cause a flood (and almost immediately cancel any job order to deconstruct the other components), and deconstructing the pump will cause both wheels to collapse (unless they are attached to [[machinery]] outside them, not shown).

[[Power]] can be routed up from the pump or off to the side from a wheel; the bottom of the pump is difficult to access without danger of water escaping. Routing power from a wheel is typically safe in practice, but it's not impossible for a small amount of water to escape the reactor if it is temporarily overfilled. Power can also be routed out of the reactor via a gear or horizontal axle over the pump's intake tile; while this does not interfere with the pump's operation or present a danger of flooding, it makes it more difficult to shut down the reactor. In either case, it's typically wise to place a [[gear assembly]] linked to a [[lever]] early in the power train in order to allow disconnecting the power at that point, as opposed to needing to halt the entire reactor to stop the power supply.

Expanded versions can produce more power, and can be added later with minimal advance planning; such extensibility is easily attainable by placing disengageable gears on either side of the two water wheels, then attaching minireactors at your leisure, or halting the original reactor by other means. Alternatively, it may be easier to simply produce a second reactor, then connect to the power train at another location.

''Note: If created in an aquifer, there is a chance that the channeled tiles will have a natural [[flow|water flow]] - this will cause the pump to start the moment the first wheel is finished, flooding the work area for the second.''
*This can be countered by connecting something that consumes >90 power while building the waterwheels -19 [[gear assembly|Gear assemblies]] works

===Mini Water Reactor===

This even more compact design is quite similar to the original Dwarven Water Reactor, but can be used in tight spots that do not need more than 80 surplus power. This plan can also be considered an extension unit to the DWR, in that it can be added to one or the other side to provide an additional 80 power to the resulting powertrain. Safely constructing a mini reactor to add to a previously built reactor without potential flooding and/or loss of power is possible only if you first turn off the original reactor. Planning ahead is a much better option, so if you're going to need more than 170 power, build a larger reactor to start with.

As stated previously, the design below produces 80 surplus power (less additional powertrain).

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Construction of the mini reactor follows the same order as for the DWR, though the channel is slightly different and only one water wheel is needed. If this is an addition to a full size reactor or set of reactors, all channels will need to be fairly full with water to start the reactor.

===Micro Water Reactor===

Replacing the pump with a dumping [[minecart]], the micro reactor is even more compact and produces up to 90 surplus power per waterwheel (less additional powertrain).

<diagram>
z z-1
+++ ╔═╗
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#@] ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ╚═╝
+++

</diagram>

Channel two adjacent tiles to create a trench, remove the ramp from one trench tile and build a [[Minecart#Track_Stops|track stop]] dumping into the other trench tile. Optionally link a lever to the track stop (to disable and enable the reactor later). Add a minecart to the track stop, build a waterwheel over the trench, and use a pond [[zone]] to fill the ramp tile. The reactor requires 11 units of water for continuous operation; any excess will simply disappear. Once filled, the minecart will dump water into the ramp tile. The water will then flow back to the minecart tile, refilling the minecart and repeating the process endlessly.

For more power, each trench can operate two waterwheels and multiple trenches can be arranged in a row to provide as much power as needed. (Each trench should remain isolated to avoid interference.) This example provides 356 surplus power with only 4 tiles of moving water:

<diagram>
z z-1
+++++
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╔═╦═╗
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#0:0][@6:0]─[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╚═╩═╝
+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+[#0:0][@6:0]─[#@]+
+++++

</diagram>

For a more compact design, several trench rows can be staggered to produce a solid block of waterwheels, scaling to whatever size necessary. The example below provides 538 power with 8 tiles of moving water:

<diagram>
z z-1
+++++ ╔═╗
++[#1:0].[#@]++ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╔╩╦╩╗
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#6:0][@]═[#@] ╚╦╩╦╝
+[#0:0][@6:0]───[#@]+ ║[#0:0][@6:0]■[#@]║
++[#1:0].[#@]++ ║[#1:0]▲[#@]║
+++++ ╚═╝

</diagram>

Note: To avoid access problems, large blocks of micro reactors should be built and filled one layer at a time.

== Flowing Water ==
Waterwheels require water which is flowing; the game will consider water to be flowing under two circumstances - the first is when water spreads, that is, when deeper water flows to an adjacent tile where the water is shallower. This could be called "gradient flow" because it requires the water be flowing from deeper to shallower. Water which doesn't have a gradient - such as stretches of water which are 7/7 deep - is generally not regarded by the game to be flowing even if water is technically being delivered through those tiles.

The second kind of flow the game recognizes is when water flows off the map, either by going off the map edge or disappearing into an aquifer (water which enters an aquifer vanishes from the map, since an aquifer can never become full, even if it's only a single tile). This kind of flow propagates back from the map edge or aquifer sink and causes all or most of the connected water to gain the "Flowing" quality. Water which is flowing off the map counts as flowing even on stretches of 7/7 depth. This kind of flow is most readily observed in brooks, streams and rivers; however artificially constructed dwarf-made water channels function just as effectively, provided that they ultimately flow off the map.
A tile which has been marked as flowing off the map will retain this quality even if water movement is later blocked. This is most readily observed in that a dammed river will continue to power waterwheels, even though the water is no longer flowing off the map. This works equally well for dwarf-made water channels, the flowing quality is so persistent that it will remain even if the area is completely drained and refilled, although while the tiles contain less than 4/7 water they won't power waterwheels regardless.

=== Legitimate artificial rivers ===
If one wishes, one can build an underground river containing 7/7 water which powers water wheels, by allowing water sourced from a river, lake, sea or aquifer to ultimately flow off the map edge in a cavern. This would require building an aqueduct to bring the river to the map edge, since, if the water spreads significantly before flowing off the map edge, the game won't regard it as flowing. Water flowing from a higher aquifer into a lower one will also have legitimate natural flow.

=== Flowing Water Reactors ===
[[File:Flowing water reactor over.png|thumb|right|Water wheels over a patch of "flowing" water]]
[[File:Flowing Water Reactor Under.png|thumb|right|Aa screw pump produces pressurized water that flows off the map edge through carved fortifications, flagging the water as flowing.]]
[[File:Flowing water reactor still.png|thumb|right|The water movement can be cut off and the water retains the "flowing" flag.]]

It is possible to exploit the game's definition of flowing water and create patches of water which power waterwheels despite the complete absence of actual water movement. When a channel is dug into an aquifer, the channel will sometimes have "natural flow". However, if water is pumped into an aquifer channel, then that channel will then always have "natural flow". This is because water is regarded as disappearing from the map at that point, and the tiles are marked as flowing water, and will power water wheels - even if the pump is removed.

The other way to create water with natural flow is to allow the water to flow off of the map edge (most commonly through a fortification carved into the map edge, although the edge of the map on the surface or in a cavern can also be used). The body of water will then be marked as flowing, even if the map edge is subsequently blocked by a floodgate or raising bridge. This can even be done with finite water sources such as murky pools, for example digging out a channel next to the map edge, building a floodgate to seal the map edge drain, filling the channel with 4/7 water, opening the floodgate, then closing the floodgate and filling it back up to 4/7 water.

The ethics of these reactors is not particularly different to perpetual motion machines, the conventional perpetual motion machine uses water wheels to generate power, and uses a fraction of that power to move the water with a screw pump. A waterwheel generates 100 power and consumes 10 power, presumably the 10 power consumed represents the energy the waterwheel requires to move the water in front of its blades. But if the water wheel moves water in and of itself, the pump actually becomes unnecessary. The water wheel itself both moves the water and is moved by the water.
[[File:water_wheel_preview.png|thumb|340px|center|Circular versions works much better than the triangular one.]]
{{Translation| dwarven = arel kol | elvish = alu rere | goblin = esp sost | human = thomo pobe}}

{{buildings}}

File:Flowing water reactor still.png

2023-02-01T08:29:39Z

Nand:

The actual water movement can be shut off using floodgates or the like, and the "flowing" flag remains

File:Flowing water reactor over.png

2023-02-01T08:28:40Z

Nand:

The Water Wheels are built over a patch of water that is flagged as flowing.

File:Flowing Water Reactor Under.png

2023-02-01T08:27:12Z

Nand:

Pressurized water should flow under the waterwheels and off the side of the map.

Vampire

2023-01-01T15:10:27Z

Nand: /* Identification */ Immediately give the most useful identification advice for the Steam edition. Haven't touched the rest of identification information.

{{migrated article}}
{{Quality|Unrated}}
{{av}}
{{buggy}}
{{minorspoiler}}
[[File:vampire_preview.jpg|thumb|Prefers Type O-.]]
{{DFtext|Urist McVictim, Cheesemaker has been found dead, completely drained of blood!|5:1}}

'''Vampires''' {{Tile|Ñ|4:0}} are [[undead]] [[night creature]]s that feed on [[blood]], cursed during [[world generation]] by profaning against their former [[deity|deities]]. In [[fortress mode]], they occasionally appear in [[migrant]] waves and hide themselves amongst your [[dwarves]]. Vampirism can be further spread by [[thirst|drinking]] either vampire blood, or [[water]] contaminated by said vampire blood.

==Description==
{{Translation
| term = blood sucker
| dwarven = nazush-eb
| elvish = cameda-pelese
| goblin = ogom-oson
| human = cadem-engo
}}
Vampires, like other night creatures, are created during world generation. The amount of vampires created during world generation is closely related to world size, population, and history, and it can be directly controlled with [[advanced world generation]]—a world generating with "{{tt|Number of Vampire Curse Types}}" set to {{tt|0}} in advanced world generation will not have any vampires in it. Every once in a while, a deity will curse a worshipper who desecrates their temple or otherwise offends them, cursing them to become either a vampire or [[werebeast]]. Any creature with blood, capable of learning, and not already a werebeast or undead, can, theoretically, become a vampire, but most vampires will be [[human]] or dwarven. However, since [[civilization]]s can have members not of their founding race, the occasional vampiric [[goblin]], [[elf]], or even [[Animal people|animal person]] will also occur.

Vampires are much more powerful than normal humanoids, possessing enhanced speed, strength, [[No Exert|stamina]], and [[No Pain|pain resistance]] in combat, don't need [[food]], or need to breathe (and thus, cannot drown), and never get [[sleep|drowsy]]. They do, however, get thirsty, albeit not in the normal way; vampires thirst for warm, fresh blood, and will suck [[unconscious]] [[creature]]s (usually others of their own kind) dry given the chance, usually killing them. In the rare case that the victims survive and recover, they will not remember what happened to them, and may very well fall victim once more. It appears that when a vampire feeds successfully, they receive a large happiness boost.

Vampires do not [[age]] - most live for hundreds or even thousands of years. Thus, all but the youngest vampires are more [[skill]]ed and experienced than their peers, spurred on by the countless lives detailed on their [[kill list]]s while they hide their true identities. This makes them natural candidates for leadership, and thus vampiric [[monarch]]s are a not-uncommon sight upon the thrones of certain ill-starred [[civilization]]s, which do not seem to wonder as to how their liege has been alive for so many centuries. Vampires are a type of undead, therefore, animated dead creatures will be docile towards them, as will nonplayer [[necromancer]]s—while they're undead, necromancers cannot control vampires, as they possess free will. Vampires are sterile, and therefore can't have [[children]].

Younger vampires stalk the streets of towns and cities, indistinguishable from the average mortal, and drink the blood of unsuspecting innocents. Elder vampires, those with power and ambition, mislead the gullible and power-hungry into forming vampire cults dedicated to worshiping and feeding their master. Should a vampire rise to a position of power in mortal society, it may deign to expose itself and impose a rule of tyranny upon the subjects who so unknowingly elevated it to power. {{verify}}

None of your seven starting dwarves will ever be vampires, nor will children or babies, [[caravan]]s, [[siege]]s{{verify}}, [[ambush]]es{{verify}}, or [[thief|thieves]]{{verify}}, but any of the rest of your dwarves can be. (Foreign [[diplomat]]s can be vampires, and will be labeled as such.)

== Habits ==
Vampires are secretive and, for better or for worse, a fairly common occurrence. Many fortresses can expect to see a vampiric resident within the first few years - some may see two or more. Vampires arrive with a false name, hiding their true name and kill list until they are discovered. They act as any other dwarves, performing jobs which are assigned to them and generally acting as expected, except for differences too small to notice easily in any sizable population: they do not eat, drink or sleep. They can be [[military|drafted]], assigned to [[burrow]]s, be given [[room]]s (because they do not sleep, vampires will not claim rooms on their own{{verify}}), and own items. The most important difference is that sometimes ''(when? how often?)'', they drink the blood of dwarves or other creatures (if any tame animals somehow fall asleep - eg via a syndrome - vampires will drink their blood as willingly as they will that of a dwarf or other creature) that they catch sleeping. If a vampire is in the military and has current station orders, they may ignore them and search out a victim, still displaying 'station'.
If a vampire is caught in the act of draining a victim, their crime will be reported in the [[justice]] [[menu|screen]] as murder (they will not, however, stop drinking when caught). If only the corpse is discovered, the crime will be labeled as a murder sans suspects, and the player can accuse dwarves of the act. Even in the case that someone is accused, be aware that the deceitful vampire is capable of framing others for its crimes to send suspicion away for a time. If a vampire is killed, the corpse will bear the original name of the creature, rather than that of the dwarf who was seen to die, which might lead to some confusion among managers of such things. A [[coffin]] will be designated for burial of the vampire's cover identity, with the corpse bearing the original name entombed in it. Memorial slabs will be dedicated to the vampire's original name.

== Identification ==

Visually in the default Steam edition tileset vampires have unnatural looking purple-ish skin and this is the easiest way to identify them provided they are not wearing armor/clothing that conceals their skin such as a helmet or mask, vampires are not smart enough to deliberately conceal their appearance but since vampires often have strong military skills an inexperienced player may immediately put the vampire in a military squad, inadvertently concealing their appearance with armor.

Should a concealed dwarf be a suspected vampire, they can be stripped naked by being put in a military squad and issued a minimal or empty uniform set to "replace clothing".

=== Non-visual identification ===

It might be smart to scan the [[thoughts and preferences]] screens of all incoming migrants before welcoming them to their new home, as a safety measure; it really ''sucks'' when you don't discover you have a vampire until ''after'' they've drained your only legendary [[armorsmith]] of blood. Sometimes, when getting visitors, the game might immediately disclose some vampire visitors with messages like the following: 
{{DFtext|Eman Togiocba, Human Bard vampire is visiting.|2:1}}

A dwarf who is suddenly pale or faint for no explained reason is a good but rare indicator that a vampire is around: They were most likely fed upon, but survived. Dwarven [[corpse]]s being discovered "drained of blood" are more common; a vampire fed upon them and killed them, and their body was discovered. These dwarves should be buried well and speedily, lest an axe-crazy [[ghost]] arise from their death. Dwarves inexplicably going missing for more than a week are another indicator, although this might be the result of dwarven stupidity (e.g. falling down a [[well]], walking off a [[waterfall]], etc.) as well.

Once you suspect you have a vampire, you probably want to know ''who'' it is. There are a number of good indicators of a vampire and the more points a dwarf hits, the more likely they are, indeed, a vampire. The difficult vampires to identify are young ones, as they have not had time to build up the indicators that are obvious on older bloodsuckers. When using the [[Premium version]] graphics, it gives vampires distinctive blueish-white skin, making them very easy to identify.

Firstly, there are the consequences of their age. Vampires tend to be high in multiple (4-5+) [[social skill|social]], high in at least one [[military]] [[skill]], and "great" or better in at least one domestic skill. The biggest indicator of a vampire in this version{{verify}} is that they will almost always have more skills (10-15+ easily) at Novice or better than any of your other dwarves. If your new Great Hunter is also a Novice Milker, Shearer, Farmer, Tanner, Carpenter, Stonecrafter, Furnace Operator, Soap Maker, Fisherdwarf, Fish Cleaner, and Fish Dissector... they're almost certainly a vampire. They also tend to have very long lists of [[Thoughts and preferences#Civilization membership|group associations]], on the order of dozens, far more than normal dwarves; abnormally long lists of [[relationships|relations]], and often many, many children, none of whom are present in the fortress (in stark contrast to the spouses, children and siblings whom most dwarves will share their home with). If they are married to a dwarf that is not present in the fortress, this should be treated as especially strong evidence. Note, however, that lacking relatives within the fortress is not a good indicator of being a vampire.

Their [[Personality trait|personality]] can also be scrutinized for abnormalities. Their biographies may indicate that they "have the appearance of somebody who is (x) years old," a very good indicator of a vampire in cases where they have too many children - or too many civilization associations - to be that young. As vampires do not eat, sleep, or drink, they will never have recent thoughts about meals, drinks, beds, dining rooms, or chairs, leaving their thoughts especially bare and suspicious. In the case of vampires who have been in the fort for a while, a comment may be added to the effect that "s/he could really use a drink," "s/he has not had a drink in far, far too long," or "can't even remember the last time s/he had some." This is an indicator that they need blood. In any case, if alcohol is available, it makes an excellent distinguishing mark. However, [[tavern]] keepers may give a vampire alcohol which they will then drink.{{verify}} In addition to the brevity of surface thoughts, if you were unfortunate enough to have a dwarf die to a vampire, the culprit will have the "took joy in slaughter lately" thought. It is also possible to find surface thoughts reacting "seeing [the victim] die" -- since normally the vampire is the only witness to their own murder, it's a strong signal.

There are two "normal" ways to be absolutely sure a dwarf is a vampire. The first is to catch them in the act; the dwarf will be clearly marked for the duration of the attack (i.e. Urist McVampire, Vampire on the [[unit list]], in red). A vampire does not mind if the player is currently "watching" or even following it. The second is to have a dwarf witness the event happening. This will permanently uncover their identities, but almost always results in a dead dwarf first. More arcane are indicators based on their physical abilities; vampires with injured guts do not [[vomit]], with injured lungs they have no problem "breathing", nor will submerged vampires [[drown]] (evoking the concept of an olden witch test for finding vampirism). Technically being undead, animated corpses will not evoke cancellation spam when a vampire sees them. An easy (albeit, [[exploit|cheap]]) way of screening migrants is to send them through a hallway with a zombie on the other side of fortifications/windows in clear sight. Normal dwarves will run away from the horrible sight of a harmless zombie but vampire dwarves will walk right through.

Vampires often will wear items crafted from their kills. If a dwarf is wearing items made from the bones of dwarves, this is a pretty good indication that they are a vampire, and the same is true of vampires of other races. Sometimes these items can find their way into circulation through natural means, so it does not always mean that someone who possesses a dwarf or human bone item is a vampire; having multiples of these items is a stronger indication.

One good way to find vampires is to lock suspect dwarves in a room for a season. Vampires do not become hungry, only tired, so simply watching the group to see who begins to starve will identify the vampire. (Ideally, you then let them all out so they can eat before they die) This is a good alternative to the zombie process for undead-free forts.

Vampires often will accuse an innocent dwarf of their murders. This can point the savvy fort manager to the culprit as quickly as an honest witness to the crime. If an accusation from a single witness appears in the justice screen, it is likely false. Monitor the accused dwarf until you see them eat, drink, or sleep, which proves them innocent.

Looking at the [[deity|deities]] that the dwarf believes in (in the {{k|r}}elationships screen) can be quite helpful. Vampires often still worship the god that cursed them with vampirism, so one of the deities of a vampire may have a "cursed the dwarf [vampire's true name] . . ." clause. Note that the level of worship of their deity by vampires is *always* 'dubious'. (Might be incorrect in 0.44) Deities also list historical figures which have begun worshiping them. If an already-cursed vampire comes to worship a new deity, they are flagged as such in the deity's history, with an "In the [season] of [year], [deity] received the worship of the [species] vampire [vampire's true name]" clause. Lacking both of these clauses from all of their deities seems to be a clear sign that the suspect is ''not'' a vampire. This non-bugged way of checking a vampire is linked to the "cheap" bugged way of checking of vampires, which is described in the final paragraph.

Then there are the (in ''Dwarf Fortress'', inevitable) bugged ways. As mentioned in the [[#Bugs|bugs]] section, vampires can be discovered and identified in [[statue|statuary]] and [[engraving]]s, through their refusal to claim [[bed]]rooms, through [[pet|adoption events]], and through [[weapon]] [[kill list]]s. Additionally, if you have the vampire on follow, their title will change from their usual one ("Dwarf A") to "Dwarf A Vampire" when they are doing certain activities.

There are a few "cheap" ways as well. [[Utilities#DFHack|DFHack]] has a special command, "cursecheck," which returns the count of cursed creatures on a tile, and will report vampires. Anyway, it shows only "true" vampire name, which you cant find at unit list, and you can just check one dwarf at a time, so good tactics is to start check from new mayor, traders, administrators and other social-based dwarves. You also can use "cursecheck nick" command at the moment, when there is no cursor on the screen (for example when you at {{K|U}}nit List screen), and after running at Unit list press {{K|v}}iew and then {{K|y}}customize to look at the nickname: if unit is vampire - such will be his nickname. DF Hack manual says that set the type of curse as nickname does not always show up in-game, some vamps don’t like nicknames.
Checking out a drained dwarf in [[legends]] mode will tell you that "In the year Z X was drained of all blood by Y."

To see if a vampire was cursed by a deity that it worships, look under the <s>vampire's</s> dwarf's relationships and view the deities that are listed. Give the dwarf a nickname and, when viewing the deity relationship, it will say: "In the [season description] of [year], [deity] cursed the dwarf vampire [nickname you chose] [dwarf's original name] to prowl the night in search of blood in [original location]". Since the nickname applies retroactively, this is a sure way to identify a vampire that happens to worship the deity that cursed it. This method is very tedious when looking at many suspects, and may apply to only a small fraction of vampires, so you should probably use it after trying the more obvious signs (like many former associations, or tags after "needs alcohol to get through the working day").

Finally, a suspected vampire will have an unusually large amount of kills, if you are using a utility such as [[Utilities#Dwarf Therapist|Dwarf Therapist]] and you go to the military tab and filter by kills, they will have a very high amount of kills.

Rarely, vampires may settle in a [[lair|burrow]] after fleeing from their parent civilization. Their vampiric status isn't hidden at all, so if you embark on that burrow, you will see that creature as a vampire from the start.

== Defense ==
Vampires attack and drink from dwarves who are sleeping, so one defense is to force all dwarves to sleep and meet in the same room, increasing the likelihood of eyewitnesses catching the monster in the act. Curiously, even if convicted of a vampiric murder, a vampire will not necessarily be killed, but given a normal justice penalty, such as temporary imprisonment. If you want to get rid of them, you will have to take [[justice]] into your own hands and introduce the leech to a pit of lava, bottomless pit, arena fight, dropping tower, or other elimination method of your choice. Take note that vampires do not breathe, so using drowning chambers will not work. Using melting chambers (like drowning chambers, but with magma instead of water), however, will work. This can be facilitated through the use of burrows, but you will need to be fast when using those, because vampires do ''not'' respect burrow restrictions if they decide to get another [[Blood|drink]]. However, one must take care that the vampire is properly memorialized, because even the ghosts of vampires will seek out your sleeping citizens and kill them.

== Uses ==
If you can correctly identify a vampire and isolate it from the rest of your population, you can make use of them without fear of blood feedings. A lone vampire in a sealed room will never die of hunger or thirst, does not need to sleep, and will never age. The only way a vampire can die (without your vengeful intervention) is in combat or through syndromes. Sealing it somewhere prevents those. The only remaining risk is that the vampire may turn mad eventually, which without access to other dwarves to [[relationships|relate to]] should not be very likely. Even [[insanity]] is not the end for a vampire - since they remain physically needless, an insane vampire can still live forever, and non-berserk insane vampires remain citizens of your fort. They will be completely unusable for any work, but a locked-up melancholic or stark raving mad vampire is just as [[Immortality|immortal]] as a sane one and cannot be elected mayor. If they get loose, they will not drain your citizens of blood, but melancholic vampires may attempt to end their own existence, given the opportunity.

Once you have your sealed vampire, your fortress becomes effectively eternal, since the vampire will always be alive even if the infamous [[Losing|fun]] claims your entire population. Be wary of [[ghost]]s, though, as they are the only being capable of reaching your vampire's eternal prison. Simply wait for the fun to pass and new immigrants to repopulate your otherwise abandoned fort.

Consider placing a chair and table in your vampire's sealed room and making them an undead accountant. As they have nothing to do but sit around for eternity, once they get their skills up, they may make exceedingly effective [[manager]]s/[[record keeper]]s. Work orders and stockpile updates currently seem to be psychically transmitted from the desk of the dwarf assigned to those labors, so entombing them in their office isn't an issue. However, vampire dwarves are still alcoholics, yet cannot drink anything but blood; the resulting job performance penalty from the "can't even remember the last time he/she had some" level of [[Drink|alcohol withdrawal]] significantly reduces the usefulness of vampires in this sort of role.

A cloistered vampire can also be used as a sleepless, un-eating and drinking dwarf who is always ready for some [[pull lever|lever pulling]], even if the rest of your dwarves die. With all that said, having an eternally cloistered vampire is not without drawbacks. As vampires do not drink, yet are still alcohol-dependent, they will eventually suffer performance penalties and take longer breaks. This can have fatal consequences if you need the lever to keep the goblin siege outside pulled ''now''. Since dwarves get unhappy [[thought]]s from having their clothes rot away, a vampire that's been naked for years is quite prone to [[tantrum]]ing or going [[insanity|insane]], which can lead to [[Fun|even worse outcomes]] should they be assigned to the lever room. Of course, you could drop them some clothes from a chute, but what fun is that when there are [[cave-in|other]] [[dwarven atom smasher|things]] [[Magma|to]] [[Goblin|drop]] [[Kobold|from]] [[Noble|above?]] Or you could assign the vampire to a squad and supply them with a set of armor, as armor doesn't wear out. Another way to mitigate cloistered vampire unhappiness is to convict them of one or more of their murders after they've been sealed in; they will eventually derive happiness from having their punishment "delayed".

Vampires do increase their stats like other dwarves, so that a weak vampire may be easily upgraded into a mighty one by using them as a miner or easily trained into a legendary swimmer. A vampiric craftsdwarf may be burrow-limited to their workshop plus a stockpile, or a miner restricted to specific mining levels, avoiding any other miners. It will be safe if all of the miners have separate, assigned bedrooms.

If a vampire gets injured enough to lose teeth and control of their limbs, the vampire may be in and out of the [[hospital]] frequently for a long time, which gives your medical team lots of experience fast. This can be very useful if the [[biome]] and [[surroundings]] make it so the hospital doesn't see too many patients.

Another possibility, should you be infested by the [[undead]], is to turn as many of your dwarves into vampires as possible; due to not counting as living by the [OPPOSED_TO_LIFE] token, undead won't attack your vampire dwarves, turning them into minor annoyances. This may result in mass unhappiness from the lack of blood to drink{{verify}}, but it may be preferable to losing the fortress. However, do note that a very long time without sucking blood heavily penalizes their skill rolls, leading to even legendary dwarves rarely or never producing masterworks.

If you have no better idea, you can use a vampire to explore the caverns; they are usually good fighters with military experience and will not run off to refill their waterskin. Tangentially, if you're feeling particularly adventurous, you can make the dwarf your very own Alucard as a trump card against invaders and FBs. Unleash the seals.

So, in general, when under control, vampires tend to be much more useful and valuable than most of your non-bloodsucking dwarves. Without access to any sleeping places or hospitals, they tend to be totally harmless to other dwarves.

== Unfortunate accidents ==
Although keeping a single vampire in eternal [[solitary confinement]] can be a bonus for any fortress, it is always important to be capable of killing them whenever necessary (especially if the peasants unwittingly elect one as their leader and an [[unfortunate accident]] becomes necessary). However, vampires have certain abilities which will make it more difficult to properly take care of them—they cannot drown, and their physical strengths could make them tougher to kill with regular weapons. Fortunately, they are not resistant to [[Dwarven atom smasher|high-tech particle physics experimentation]].

== Adventure mode ==
=== Becoming a vampire ===
There are three ways to become a vampire in Adventurer Mode. The classic method is slaying a vampire and drinking their vampiric blood (or simply attacking them, causing them to bleed and then drinking their blood off the floor), which immediately turns you into a vampire. However, not all vampires have infective blood. What causes a vampire to have non-infective blood is unclear, but it appears to be related to world age.{{bug|9774}} Further research is needed.{{verify}} In some cases, drinking water that has been tainted with the vampire's blood will be more effective, much like drinking from a blood-tainted well.

Playing as a species of [[animal people]] able to suck blood out of people with a bite attack (a [[leech man]], a [[tick man]], a female [[mosquito man]], etc) allows you to become a vampire by successfully biting and sucking the blood out of a living vampire during combat. While this reverse-vampire-vampirism sounds awesome on paper, however, caution should be taken due to blood-sucking animal people generally being smaller and more fragile than other races, making it very dangerous without careful preparation.

{{New in|0.47.04}}
Another, safer method is by toppling statues of your god/s in a temple or sanctuary. Walk up to the statue and topple it with {{K|u}} then {{K|a}}. Toppling a statue in this way will lead you to being cursed: the curse will be either vampirism or werebeast transformation. Which curse you get appears to be randomly decided at the time you topple the statue (reloading the game and toppling it again has been confirmed to give the alternate curse.). If a statue unrelated to your religion is toppled, nothing will happen.

The third way of acquiring the vampire curse is to find an altar with a suitable set of divination [[dice]] and roll it until the gods are enraged and curse you for your insolence. After receiving a message stating "Do not tempt fate.", another roll of the dice will transform you into either a werebeast or vampire. As above, the curse is random, and reloading will give you a different curse.

=== Playing as a vampire ===
You will be able to feed on other creatures by using {{k|e}} and choosing the "Feed" option on an unconscious target. On becoming a vampire, Strength, Agility and Toughness are doubled. This is a multiplier effect applied to these attributes and while the affected stats are doubled, the displayed attributes in the statistics menu will not change. As a result, your adventurer can have average strength in the attributes menu, but their description will show them as extremely muscular. Physical attributes, such as endurance, are still able to increase after becoming a vampire.

If you have become a vampire, all warm, blood-bearing bodies that you can't directly see from your position will appear as {{Raw Tile|☼|4:0:1}} tiles. (The vampire ability to sense living creatures will satisfy your need to "See Animal" through walls.) Your {{DFtext|Thirsty}} indicator will also show up as red, instead of blue. Due to such conditions, it is relatively impossible to quench your thirst on any member of a civilization without antagonizing any of your companions - even if you don't have any, there's still that chance that your victim might wake up in the middle of your feast and effectively set a whole civilization against you. Considering that vampires will not tire, the easiest way to deal with this is to sprint and {{k|j}}ump over a river. Once on the other side, you just need to suck the blood of the first creature you find, and return to your companions. Note also that by talking to your companions, you can ask them (in the favor menu) to stay where they are, allowing you to walk out of their sight and suck the blood of the first creature you find. One way to counter this is to raid goblin/bandit camps, concentrating on one lone, weak unit far from any comrades, beat them till they give in to pain (but not to death) and then feed on them directly. You can do the same with wildlife, although some of them may be more aggressive, and most might die too quickly. You can also try to strangle your foes; they instantly pass out and will not die unless you keep on strangling them for a long time. For instructions on chokeholds, see the [[Wrestler#Chokehold and strangling|relevant article]]. Another solution is finding some indoor place with people inside and Sleep so you wake up while they are sleeping. Your companions go wait outside while you sleep, so you have a brief window of time to suck a sleeping person's blood.

After becoming a vampire, you become invincible to zombies, since you're now an undead night creature. It is usually preferred to raid a necromancer tower alone, because bringing companions will only get them killed, and your agility when you become a vampire will rise drastically anyway, causing you to outrun them. This increased agility will also give you better odds against [[bogeymen]] and [[night troll]]s, since you'll be quicker than both.

Playing as a vampire is a strong advantage, assuming you can manage your bloodthirst. The most convenient method of drinking blood is to wield a blunt weapon such as a mace: as long as you don't strike the head, enemies rarely bleed out or suffocate from blunt damage and it's easy to force them to give in to the pain. Interestingly, your allies don't seem to care if you drink blood from enemies (As of 40.24, it seems companions actually do care, and this can cause a loyalty cascade, it doesn't seem to matter if it's an animal or a sentient being), and blood can be drunk in a single turn in combat (occasionally killing the creature, depending on its size and your thirst). Vampiric bloodthirst shows up less often than normal thirst, and can usually be slaked in a single feeding from a human-sized opponent. Feeding from smaller animals such as [[dingo]]s is possible, but multiple feedings may be necessary. You are more than able to survive several months (possibly forever){{verify}} without drinking any blood, so don't worry if your thirst includes an exclamation mark with a beautiful bright red color! However, your strength and speed decrease as you get thirstier, so try to feed off of a few bandits before you challenge that angry [[bronze colossus]].

Vampires, as noted before, do not need to eat, nor drink (normal fluids), nor sleep. As an adventurer, this is a huge advantage, as you don't need to stop, or worry about carrying consumables. As long as there's living, pain-feeling enemies, you can feed. Vampires also do not need to breathe and do not tire. They can swim as long as necessary and cannot drown, even to the extent of being able to swim oceans. A sufficiently skilled and armed vampire is essentially immortal for all intents and purposes.

=== Finding vampires ===
There are several ways to find a vampire in adventure mode.

* Asking local citizens (not nobles, hearthpersons or travelers) about "troubles" and "beasts" will usually point out the nearest ones first.
* Begin a conversation with the aforementioned citizens asking about directions to a being, specifically on the whereabouts of a vampire, named in the format of "the dwarf vampire Urist McBloodsucker".
* Filter the Events list of the Log or the rumor list in conversation for a location nearby. Vampires will be included among 'Beast' entries in the log, in rumor topics they vaguely identify someone's presence in a location and you will have to ask the rumor to get particulars.

Note: Always check the Log Entry's text for the date, as many stale reports will remain active rumors. Ask a knowledgeable traveler to learn their most recent location. If they can't guide you within the site of their last reported location, the vampire is most likely already slain.

Vampires will always have a flashing sprite. If the vampire has been outed, they may also be hostile. If not, you may simply examine NPCs for bone jewelry. This is not fool-proof in 40.11, as veteran soldiers and mercenaries may also wear bone trophies, and more recent vampires may wear none. Accusing the suspect of being a night creature will reveal for certain. A vampire exposed either way also becomes an enemy of the site government and civilization, and therefore fair game to kill.

=== Killing vampires ===
Vampires in adventure mode that are in hiding always wield the basic knife common to all villagers and wear basic clothing, perhaps also jewellery – their lousy weapons make them a lesser threat than you might think. Old vampires with large kill lists still may not be all that effective in combat, since most of their kills are likely stealthy, non-combat kills ''a la'' fortress mode vampires. In some cases, the vampire may be accompanied by cultists who will assist the bloodsucker in combat.

Vampires don't breathe or feel pain, so don't bother trying to strangle them or using blunt weapons. Instead, just slice them up with something edged, so they rapidly bleed to death, try to decapitate them, or use wrestling to break their weapon arm and then finish them off at your leisure.

Vampires attack anyone around them once exposed, so if you like, you can allow them to begin attacking random civilians, and target them while they're busy, or even wait until the peasants weaken them.

Note that, even if you tell someone Urist McVampire was a vampire before you tell them you killed Urist McVampire, they may still dislike you as a killer.

== Creating vampires ==
{{removed feature
|version=0.47.01
|section=1
|This technique does not work in v0.47 and above, because the statue toppler also needs to worship the relevant god.
}}
Key:

F: floor
W: wall
B: bridge
P: pit/pond zone
S: statue (in a temple meeting zone)

{{diagram|spaces=yes|\
z0 ║z-1 ║z-2
WWW ║WWW ║WWWWW
WPW ║W W ║WFBSW
WFW ║WWW ║WWWWW
}}
Using the vampire-maker©:

1: Capture a [[building destroyer]], such as a [[troll]].

2: Throw building destroyer into pit.

3: Throw useless, weak animals or enemies down until the building destroyer gets a title from it.

4: Open bridge.

5: Let it destroy the statue. You now have a vampire! (or [[werebeast]].)

(for z1, just make it so it can't get up)

== Modding ==
It is possible to create your own unique vampire strain by editing the raws. These custom vampires can be outfitted with various abilities only limited by your own creativity. An example would be shapeshifting vampires, firebreathing vampires, superfast vampires, and even vampires with the ability to raise corpses are fairly easy to make by creating a custom ''interaction_customvampirenamehere'' note document.

== Bugs ==
* Dwarven vampires remain dependent on alcohol but will not drink anything except blood in fortress mode, so inevitably end up showing symptoms of [[Alcohol#Consequences of a Sober Fortress|alcohol withdrawal]]. This has not been acknowledged as a bug. {{bug|5189}}
** Vampires can drink alcohol if it is served by tavern keeper.
* Statues and engravings may identify dwarves as vampires before it is common knowledge, and may even depict them sucking blood.{{bug|5209}}
* Likewise, [[pet]]s adopted by vampires will identify them as vampires in the adoption [[announcement]].{{bug|5942}}
* Vampires do not bother claiming bedrooms, which doesn't help their disguise.{{bug|5642}}
* Weapon kill lists identify vampires.{{bug|5635}}
* Soldiers will not attack vampires caught red-handed, and can be fooled by their counter-accusations.{{bug|5087}}
* Dwarves passing by a body drained of all blood will immediately drop what they are doing to report it to the captain of the guard, regardless of how many times it has already been reported.{{bug|8899}}

{| {{listboxformat|class=gamedata}}
!colspan="2" style="border: 1px solid #72A329; font-weight:bold; background-color: #bd8; padding-left: 1em; padding-right: 1em; width:100%; display:table-cell" | Example raws (as extracted from world.dat)
|- style="text-align: left; display:table-cell; "
| <div style="overflow:auto; max-width:800px">

[INTERACTION:DEITY_CURSE_VAMPIRE_1]

[GENERATED]

[I_SOURCE:DEITY]
[IS_USAGE_HINT:MAJOR_CURSE]
[IS_HIST_STRING_1: cursed ]
[IS_HIST_STRING_2: to prowl the night in search of blood]
[IS_TRIGGER_STRING_SECOND:have]
[IS_TRIGGER_STRING_THIRD:has]
[IS_TRIGGER_STRING:been cursed to prowl the night in search of blood!]

[I_SOURCE:INGESTION]
[IS_HIST_STRING_1: consumed the tainted blood of ]
[IS_HIST_STRING_2: and was cursed]

[I_TARGET:A:CREATURE]
[IT_LOCATION:CONTEXT_CREATURE]
[IT_REQUIRES:CAN_LEARN]
[IT_REQUIRES:HAS_BLOOD]
[IT_FORBIDDEN:NOT_LIVING]
[IT_FORBIDDEN:SUPERNATURAL]
[IT_CANNOT_HAVE_SYNDROME_CLASS:WERECURSE]
[IT_CANNOT_HAVE_SYNDROME_CLASS:VAMPCURSE]
[IT_CANNOT_HAVE_SYNDROME_CLASS:DISTURBANCE_CURSE]
[IT_CANNOT_HAVE_SYNDROME_CLASS:RAISED_UNDEAD]
[IT_CANNOT_HAVE_SYNDROME_CLASS:RAISED_GHOST]
[IT_CANNOT_HAVE_SYNDROME_CLASS:GHOUL]

[I_EFFECT:ADD_SYNDROME]
[IE_TARGET:A]
[IE_IMMEDIATE]
[SYNDROME]
[SYN_CONCENTRATION_ADDED:1000:0]
[SYN_CLASS:VAMPCURSE]
[CE_ADD_TAG:BLOODSUCKER:NO_AGING:STERILE:NOT_LIVING:NOEXERT:NOPAIN:NOBREATHE:NOSTUN:NONAUSEA:NO_DIZZINESS:NO_FEVERS:PARALYZEIMMUNE:NO_EAT:NO_DRINK:NO_SLEEP:NO_PHYS_ATT_GAIN:NO_PHYS_ATT_RUST:START:0:ABRUPT]
[CE_PHYS_ATT_CHANGE:STRENGTH:200:0:AGILITY:200:0:TOUGHNESS:200:0:START:0:ABRUPT]
[CE_MATERIAL_FORCE_MULTIPLIER:MAT_MULT:NONE:NONE:1:2:ABRUPT]
[CE_BODY_MAT_INTERACTION:MAT_TOKEN:RESERVED_BLOOD:START:0:ABRUPT]
[CE:INTERACTION:DEITY_CURSE_VAMPIRE_1]
[CE:SYNDROME_TAG:SYN_INGESTED]
[CE:SYNDROME_TAG:SYN_INJECTED]
[CE_DISPLAY_TILE:TILE:165:4:0:0:START:0:CAN_BE_HIDDEN:ABRUPT]
[CE_DISPLAY_NAME:NAME:vampire:vampires:vampiric:START:0:CAN_BE_HIDDEN:ABRUPT]
[CE_BP_APPEARANCE_MODIFIER:START:0:BP:BY_CATEGORY:TOOTH:APPEARANCE_MODIFIER:LENGTH:150:ABRUPT]
[CE:COUNTER_TRIGGER:DRINKING_BLOOD:1:NONE:REQUIRED]
[CE_SENSE_CREATURE_CLASS:START:0:CLASS:GENERAL_POISON:15:4:0:1:ABRUPT]

|-
|}

{{Creatures}}
{{category|humanoids}}
{{Category|No Exert}}
{{Category|No Pain}}
{{Category|No Stun}}
[[Ru:Vampire]]

Mass pitting

2016-04-21T09:34:21Z

Nand: /* The Pit */

{{TipBox2|titlebg=#c00|textbg=#ffd|Warning!|There have been multiple reports of hostile creatures escaping confinement while pitting. In previous versions, only "thief" type creatures, flyers, or large creatures like titans would escape using this system. The 0.40 behavior is still being investigated. If in doubt, build the cage manually or have sufficient military hanging around the top stockpile area.}}

{{Quality|Exceptional|18:43, 24 January 2014 (UTC)}}
{{projects}}
{{av}}
{{buggy}}

'''Mass pitting''' refers to [[Activity_zone#Pit.2FPond|pitting]] many [[cage]]d creatures at one time without having to build each cage and link it to a lever. This allows you to recycle many cages quickly, freeing them up for reuse in [[Trap#Cage_Trap|cage traps]] in minimal time.

=Mass Pitting System=
:Also called the '''Mass Cage Recycling System'''.
Here's a simple design that keeps you from having to build cages before releasing hostile creatures from them. This is safe for most hostiles, but see warnings below.

==Building==

#Dig out a room and another room of at least the same size directly below it.
#In the upper room [[channel]] out openings into the lower room which are evenly spaced and exactly 2 tiles away from each other ''(see image below)''.
#Build floor [[hatch]]es and place them over all of the openings.
#Mark each hatch [[forbid]]den and [[Door#Usage|tightly closed]] to pets (''not'' "locked"). ''(In experiments this has been shown to help stop normal creatures in 0.40.xx from escaping.)''
#Place one big [[Stockpile#Animal|animal stockpile]] over the room such that every tile in the stockpile is adjacent ([[orthogonal]]ly or diagonally) to one of the hatches. Disable "empty cages" on the stockpile.
#Create '''one''' large [[Activity_zone#Pit.2FPond|pit zone]] that covers '''all''' of the openings such that all of them are part of the same pit zone. This is critical to prevent hostiles from being led around and spooking your civilians.
#Disable all other animal stockpiles except for one empty-cage-only "animal" stockpile somewhere.
#See [[Mass pitting#The Pit|below]] for some suggestions on what to drop your invaders into.

The top room should end up looking something like this:

<diagram>

=========
=[@6:0][#0:0]¢[#@]==[@6:0][#0:0]¢[#@]==[@6:0][#0:0]¢[#@]=
=========
=========
=[@6:0][#0:0]¢[#@]==[@6:0][#0:0]¢[#@]==[@6:0][#0:0]¢[#@]=
=========

= Stockpile

[@6:0][#0:0]¢[#@] Hatch cover

</diagram>

The bottom room can look like whatever you want as long as all of the openings you channeled out lead into it from the ceiling.

Obviously you can scale the design with more or fewer hatch openings to get a larger or smaller stockpile area in the upper room, but a 6x9 room with 6 hatches in allows you to empty out 48 cages very quickly, without spooking dwarves, which is ample for most players - ymmv.

Variations of this design exist, but they all use the same basic principle - that is, all hostiles in cages must be directly adjacent to a suitable pit. Dwarves must not be required to haul hostile creatures across any distance or else they can become startled and release the dangerous creature, then free to do as it will.

==Use==

Before pitting your captives, you may wish to [[Cage#How_to_disarm_hostiles_in_cages|disarm them]] -- depending on what you've built for them to fall into.

Now, wait for the stockpile above to fill and assign creatures to the pit all in one shot. Being pitted through the hatches will keep dwarves from being spooked by hostile creatures below and with all cages directly adjacent to pits creatures can be dumped in instantly without having to be led around.

A mass of dwarves will pile into the room, pit the creatures at the about same time, and haul the empty cages off to your empty cage stockpile. The poor pathetic creatures they pitted will then be left to the mercy of whatever is at the bottom of the pits.

==The Pit==

After your dwarves have dumped out the cages the inhabitants will be dropped into the room below. Here you can find some suggestions on its construction:

====Long Drop====

One of the simplest and most reliable ways of ensuring the death of non-flying creatures is a very long drop (at least 20 z-levels but deeper is better). All but the first z-level can actually be staircases as a creature which has started to fall will continue to fall unimpeded by staircases. Using up/down stairs instead of channeling significantly simplifies construction of long drops and only the first z-level need be channeled to initiate the falling.

Consider dropping victims all the way from the surface to the magma forges for ease of smelting goblinite, such a long fall will guarantee death of the victims and the gibs can be thrown into the magma. A stockpile with give orders can be created at the impact site to help ensure gibs and things to be melted are automatically sent to the correct destinations and not for example hauled back up to surface stockpiles.

====Drowning chamber====

Fill up the room below with water and watch as the invaders drown. Requires only some buckets and a water source. May be difficult or troublesome to recover anything dropped into the waters below. Consider a filling and draining method using floodgates bordered by fortifications. Ensure that the hatches over the openings are permamently set to forbidden, otherwise things can and will swim back into the room above resulting in [[Losing|fun]]. Dwarves will not have an issue dumping things through the forbidden hatches.

EX

This is a possible drowning pit where water flows through a tunnel to the right and drains out the left. Be sure they are hooked to separate levers, and remember the fortification keeps dead things from flowing out, not live things from swimming out. A door along the bottom of this design allows dwarfs in to loot the spoils, and or clear out any unwanted buildup of bodies ETC.

░░░░░░░░░░░░
░ ░
░░░░░░░ ░░░░░░░░
FX X
░░░░░░░ ░░░░░░░░
░ ░
░░░░░X░░░░░░
░ ░

X=Floodgate
F=Fortification

====Lava Pool====

Alternatively you can fill the room with magma and watch as the hostiles are instantly incinerated! Requires an [[aqueduct]] and/or magma safe materials.

====Weapon Trap Hallway====

On the level below the pit opening place weapon traps in a 1 square wide hallway. The dumped creature will run for the exit through the weapon traps until dead. You can put a cage trap at the end just in case the creature successfully escapes with his life.

Level 1
░░░░░
░nnn░
░░░░░░░npn░
cDnnn░
░░░░░░░░░░░

Level -1
░░░░░░░
░TTTT ░
░T░░░ ░
░T░T░ ░ <-- align p n Lvl 1 with center T n this level.
░TTT░ ░
░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░ ░
cD ░
░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░░

p=Pit opening
D=Door
c=cage trap
T=weapon trap
n=cage staging area

====Empty Room====

Leaving the room down below empty has its benefits. When your melee military has nothing better to do beating [[Cage#How_to_disarm_hostiles_in_cages|unarmed]] goblins will train fighting skills quickly. Be sure to haul off corpses before [[miasma]] begins forming.
If you are planning to kill your goblins by pitting them into an empty room, remember that height alone is not a reliable method of enemy disposal. Even if your empty room is 10-15 z-levels below, you will still get a high number of survivors and some will escape unharmed - especially when falling on top of enemies pitted previously.

====Goblin Training====

Through the use of [[trap|spike traps]], goblins can be trained in the same manner as a standard [[danger room]]. Uses for these master goblin fighters include extended target practice, an expendable military addition to be dumped on particularly nasty [[forgotten beast|forgotten beasts]], or a last resort contingency plan against non-goblin invader-induced [[fun]].

====Fortifications====

[[Image:Pitting_room.png|thumb|right|200px|Marksdwarf training room]]
By lining the pit room with fortifications you are able to safely train your marksdwarves. This provides a feasible and quick alternative to the slow process of using archery targets. By ordering your military to use [[bone]] [[bolts]] and leaving your hostiles fully armored even a small group of goblins will live to be used as target practice for months. Miasma produced during this time may give dwarves unhappy [[thoughts]]. To avoid this stagger fortifications with solid walls in such a way that diagonal gaps are between you and the rot.

Remember that goblin marksmen will still be able to shoot through fortifications if they are armed sufficiently. To avoid this exclude or [[Cage#How_to_disarm_hostiles_in_cages|disarm]] them.

Also remember that you must keep civilians out of sight of the fortifications. Despite blocking the pathing of the hostiles, it does not prevent civilians from canceling jobs when they see the baddies through your fortifications.

'''''Note''''' if you use 2-wide fortifications then your marksdwarves won't fire through them unless they are journeyman or higher. You can avoid this by alternating fortifications and walls for the first layer of wall, then blocking the outer orthogonal tiles adjacent to the fortifications with walls; though you will still need to force the marksdwarves to stand adjacent to the fortifications in order for them to fire through.

====Long Term Maintenance====

In order to protect frame rate, spread of miasma if you are using this for melee training, gather any remaining loot that was not removed before pitting the creatures, or simply a desire for fortress cleanliness, you can make a bridge as part or all of one wall to the pit. When retracted it acts as a wall and removes any danger of escaping prisoners, but when all are dead or sufficient military is waiting, you may lower this to retrieve any bodies or valuables. If you do not like having a pit unavailable during this time, you may consider building a second to alternate uses between which one is being filled and which one is being emptied.
Another alternative is to build a raising (instead of a retracting) bridge and use it to atomize all of the miasma producing corpses instead of hauling them topside.

==Alternative Minecart Design==

It is possible to automate a mass pitting system with [[minecart]]s. Minecart "shotgunning" is when a minecart traveling at significant speed encounters an obstacle and "launches" its contents. Cages which were in the minecart, and which encounter an obstacle while traveling at significant speed will similarly "shotgun" their contents, launching their inhabitants. This can empty an entire minecart full of cages simultaneously, without fear of escape. Note, however, that [[flying]] creatures may still be problematic.

==Bugs==
* Intelligent creatures do not appear in the list for chains, cages or pitting.{{bug|9271}}{{version|0.42.03}}

v0.31:Water wheel

2012-02-05T03:46:14Z

Nand: Added section on "naturally" flowing water.

{{Quality|Exceptional}}
{{Machine_component|name=Water wheel|key=w
|construction=
* 3 [[Log]]s
|construction_job=
# [[Architecture]]
# [[Carpenter]]
|power=Needs 10 power. Generates 100 power. Net gain of 90 power.
}}{{av}}

A '''water wheel''' is a [[machine component]] that provides [[power]] via water [[flow]]. To build a water wheel, select {{key|b}}uild menu and choose {{key|M}}achine components. It requires 3 [[wood]] and generates 90 net power, which can be used for operating one or more [[Screw pump|pumps]] or [[mill]]s. You can use [[axle]]s and [[Gear assembly|gears]] to distribute the power produced by a water wheel, or connect the machinery directly.

Waterwheels do ''not'' work with waterfalls, nor in magma - it takes water that is flowing according to the DF use of the term.

''For a basic overview of how the different machine parts work and work together, see [[machinery]].''

== Construction ==
The [[Building_designer|architecture]] and [[Carpenter|carpentry]] labors are needed for the construction.

A water wheel occupies 3 adjacent tiles (N-S or E-W axis, no diagonals). It is the color of the first wood selected for it, so you could build a red wheel with one piece of goblin-cap and two of fungiwood.

Although it's ''possible'' to build a stable water wheel on solid ground, it won't provide any power. A useful water wheel is built in an empty tile that does not contain a floor, allowing the wheel to be powered by water in the tiles one [[Z-axis|z-level]] below. Floorless tiles are typically made by [[channel|channel]]ling away the floor. To support the water wheel, build it with its central tile orthogonally adjacent to a gear assembly, a horizontal axle, a screw pump, or the central tile of a pre-existing water wheel. Do not hang it from a gear assembly you wish to control with a switch, as a disconnected ("switched off") gear assembly can't support anything and will cause the waterwheel to deconstruct.

[[Power]] is generated from a water wheel as long as it has [[flow]]ing water at a depth of 4/7 or greater under at least one of its tiles. The easiest way to achieve this is by placing the water wheel over a [[river]] or [[brook]]. '''With a brook you must first channel through the surface''' since brooks have a floor of sorts over them.

==Designs==
'''Key:'''

'''#''' = '''Wall'''
○ = '''Millstone'''
+ = '''Floor'''
~ = '''Water'''
W = '''Water Wheel'''
* = '''Gear Assembly'''
═ = '''Axle'''

{|style="border: 1px solid #0b0; background: #dfd"
|+'''Basic watermill design'''
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|○
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|*
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #7FF; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|}
{|style="border: 1px solid #0b0; background: #dfd"
|+'''Dual watermill design'''
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07f; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #7FF; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|○
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|*
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|═
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|}
This is by no means the limit of water power from one location, depending on the width of your river/brook/channel you can stack many waterwheels side-by-side (really big assembles will need to be artificial as there's a limit to how wide the game created water flows get). Just remember to make sure there's a support structure in place before you place the next wheel.

== Perpetual motion ==

Due to the relatively low power draw of a [[screw pump]], a ''self-powering'' assembly can be made with a water wheel that still leaves plenty of excess power for other uses. This is arguably an [[exploit]] and possibly a bug.

To get it working, you must start the pump manually.*

:''(* Exceptions are [[aquifer]]s, which can sometimes have naturally occurring [[flow]]. This is sometimes a good thing, because then a wheel simply works by itself - or a bad thing, if, for example, you want the wheel to '''not''' provide any power while you build a pump adjacent to it. It's not clear what causes an aquifer to have flow and then keep it - it's difficult to replicate reliably, and can be lost with additional [[channel]]ing, so designs will have to be adapted if such are found.)''

It is good to have a ready source of water to refill the machine, as water tends to escape and evaporate. As the water level decreases, the water wheel may intermittently stop providing power; when the level falls below 4/7, the wheel stops providing power altogether.

'''*REMEMBER TO BUILD AN ORTHOGONAL PUMP, HORIZONTAL AXLE OR GEAR ASSEMBLY BEFORE THE WATER WHEEL*'''

===Dwarven Water Reactor===
====Key====
:{{Raw Tile|║ ═ ╝ ╚ ╔ ╗ ╣ ╠ ╩ ╦ O|7:0:1}} = '''Wall'''
:{{Raw Tile|+|7:0:0}} = '''Floor'''
:{{Raw Tile|W|6:0:0}} = '''Water Wheel''' with floor underneath
:{{Raw Tile|W|6:1:0}} = '''Water Wheel''' with water underneath
:{{Raw Tile|≈|1:0:1}} = '''Water''' on current level
:{{Raw Tile|≈|3:0:1}} = '''Water''' on level below
:{{Raw Tile|X|2:0:0}} {{Raw Tile|X|2:0:1}} = '''Screw Pump''' drawing from south

This compact design, once started, produces 170 surplus power (less additional power train). While the water reactor provides a perpetual source of mechanical power in abundant amounts, the use of several reactors can cause performance issues. When building your water reactor, it is recommended that you include a method for stopping the reactor once started.

<div style="float:right; margin:2ex 20ex;"> 
{|
!'''Lower Level'''
!
!'''Upper Level'''
|-
|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╦|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|O|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|}

|

|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:0}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:0}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:0}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:0:0}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|≈|3:0:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|}
|}
</div>

Dig the V-shaped channel and fill it with water (either from an outside source or by designating it as a [[pond]]). Meanwhile, construct the pump, pumping from the South. Construct the two water wheels. Start the pump manually ( {{k|q}}, {{k|Enter}} ) - if there is enough water*, the "reactor" will start immediately and the pump operator will leave. The water from the north end of the pump will spill over the top-most floor tile, filling that to 7/7 and the two tiles east and west of it to ~5/7, but will not overflow back past the water wheel to the walkway area. Note that for the upper level, no southern walls are shown as none are needed, unless you don't follow the design and do something to create water pressure.

*''(* Estimated minimum depth to prime the reactor is 3/7 to 4/7, though this is not guaranteed.)''
* The ideal amount of water in this design is apparently 43 units of water. In other words six tiles below in the V are full up to 7/7 and three more above are also full up to 7/7 which will generate reliable flow permanently without ever losing any of that water to evaporation. An easy way to do this is to simply leave your pond fill command on after the reactor activates. They will eventually fill it up to the optimal level and stop.

The reactor can be safely halted either by blocking the tile the pump draws water from or "overloading" the reactor (since drawing more power than the reactor supplies will stop the pump that keeps the cycle going until the load is reduced and the pump is manually restarted by dwarf-power), More drastically, the reactor will obviously be halted by deconstructing the pump. Deconstructing one wheel will cause a flood (and almost immediately cancel any job order to deconstruct the other components), and deconstructing the pump will cause both wheels to collapse (unless they are attached to [[machinery]] outside them, not shown).

[[Power]] can routed up from the pump or off to the side from a wheel; the bottom of the pump is difficult to access without danger of water escaping. Routing power from a wheel is typically safe in practice, but it's not impossible for a small amount of water to escape the reactor if it is temporarily overfilled. Power can also be routed out of the reactor via a gear or horizontal axle over the pump's intake tile; while this does not interfere with the pump's operation or present a danger of flooding, it makes it more difficult to shut down the reactor. In either case, it's typically wise to place a [[gear assembly]] linked to a [[lever]] early in the power train in order to allow disconnecting the power at that point, as opposed to needing to halt the entire reactor to stop the power supply.

Expanded versions can produce more power, and can be added later with minimal advance planning; such extensibility is easily attainable by placing disengageable gears on either side of the two water wheels, then attaching minireactors at your leisure, or halting the original reactor by other means. Alternatively, it may be easier to simply produce a second reactor, then connect to the power train at another location.

''Note: If created in an aquifer, there is a chance that the channeled tiles will have a natural [[flow|water flow]] - this will cause the pump to start the moment the first wheel is finished, flooding the work area for the second.''
*This can be countered by connecting something that consumes >90 power while building the waterwheels -19 [[gear assembly|Gear assemblies]] works

===Mini Water Reactor===

This even more compact design is quite similar to the original Dwarven Water Reactor, but can be used in tight spots that do not need more than 80 surplus power. This plan can also be considered an extension unit to the DWR, in that it can be added to one or the other side to provide an additional 80 power to the resulting power train. Safely constructing a mini reactor to add to a previously built reactor without potential flooding and/or loss of power is possible only if you first turn off the original reactor. Planning ahead is a much better option, so if you're going to need more than 170 power, build a larger reactor to start with.

As stated previously, the design below produces 80 surplus power (less additional power train).

{|
|'''Lower Level'''
|'''Upper Level'''
|-
|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|{{H2O}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RTB|0:0:0}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|}

|
{| style="border-spacing:0;"
|-
|{{RT|╔|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|═|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|╗|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|║|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|╝|7:0:1}}
|{{RT|W|6:1:0}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:0}}
|{{RT|╚|7:0:1}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|W|6:0:0}}
|{{RT|X|2:0:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|≈|3:0:1}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|-
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|{{RT|+|7:0:0}}
|}
|}

Construction of the mini reactor follows the same order as for the DWR, though the channel is slightly different and only one water wheel is needed. If this is an addition to a full size reactor or set of reactors, all channels will need to be fairly full with water to start the reactor.

== Flowing Water ==
Waterwheels require water which is flowing, the game will consider water to be flowing under two circumstances, the first is when water spreads, that is, when deeper water flows to an adjacent tile where the water is shallower. This could be called "gradient flow" because it requires the water be flowing from deeper to shallower. Water which doesn't have a gradient - such as stretches of water which is 7/7 deep, is generally not regarded by the game to be flowing even if water is technically being delivered through those tiles.

The second kind of flow the game recognizes is when water flows off the map, either by going off the map edge or disappearing into an aquifer (water which enters an aquifer vanishes from the map, since an aquifer can never become full, even if it's only a single tile). This kind of flow propagates back from the map edge or aquifer sink and causes all or most of the connected water to gain the "Flowing" quality. Water which is flowing off the map counts as flowing even on stretches of 7/7 depth. This kind of flow is most readily observed in brooks, streams and rivers, however artificially constructed dwarf-made water channels function just as effectively, provided that they ultimately flow off the map.
A tile which has been marked as flowing off the map will retain this quality even if water movement is later blocked. This is most readily observed in that a dammed river will continue to power waterwheels, even though the water is no longer flowing off the map. This works equally well for dwarf-made water channels, the flowing quality is so persistent that it will remain even if the area is completely drained and refilled, although while the tiles contain less than 4/7 water they wont power waterwheels regardless.

=== Legitimate artificial rivers ===
If one wishes, one can build an underground river containing 7/7 water which powers water wheels, by allowing water sourced from a river, lake, sea or aquifer to ultimately flow off the map edge in a cavern. This would require building an aqueduct to bring the river to the map edge, since if the water spreads significantly before flowing off the map edge, the game wont regard it is flowing. Water flowing from a higher aquifer into a lower one will also have legitimate natural flow.

=== Flowing Water Reactors ===
It is possible to exploit the games' definition of flowing water and create patches of water which power waterwheels despite the complete absence of actual water movement. When a channel is dug into an aquifer, the channel will sometimes have "natural flow". However if water is pumped into an aquifer channel, then that channel will then always have "natural flow". This is because water is regarded as disappearing from the the map at that point, and the tiles are marked as flowing water, and will power water wheels - even if the pump is removed.

The other way to create water with natural flow, is to allow the water to flow off the map edge (most commonly through a fortification carved into the map edge, although the edge of the map on the surface, or a cavern, can also be used). The body of water will then be marked as flowing, even if the map edge is blocked by a floodgate. This can even be done with finite water sources such as murky pools, for example digging out a channel next to the map edge, building a floodgate to seal the map edge drain, filling the channel with 4/7 water, opening the floodgate, then closing the floodgate and filling it back up to 4/7 water.

The ethics of these reactors is not particularly different to perpetual motion machines, the conventional perpetual motion machine uses water wheels to generate power, and uses a fraction of that power to move the water with a screw pump. A waterwheel generates 100 power and consumes 10 power, presumably the 10 power consumed represents the energy the waterwheel requires to move the water in front of it's blades. But if the water wheel moves water in and of itself, the pump actually becomes unnecessary. The water wheel itself both moves the water and is moved by the water.

v0.31:Aquifer

2012-01-17T20:31:30Z

Nand: /* Digging with help from below */ changed title to be compatible with other subsection titles.

{{quality|Masterwork|15:52, 30 September 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
An '''aquifer''' is a subterranean layer of [[water|groundwater]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. Attempts to mine through the layer will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with [[water]], effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in [[loam]], and [[sand]], makes it difficult to find great quantities of [[stone]] in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

Aquifers can't be drained - the groundwater is limitless. [[stone detailing|Smoothed]] aquifer stone stops producing water. Aquifers located in [[water#Salt_Water|saltwater]] areas will produce salty water. Aquifers do not only produce water - if the incoming water is pressurized, an aquifer tile may instead absorb it. Just like with water production, this ability will not be disabled no matter how much water it absorbs.

== Where they are found ==

Aquifers are less likely to be found near and in mountains.{{verify}}

Layers which CAN contain aquifers:
*[[sandy clay loam]]
*[[silty clay loam]]
*[[loam]]
*[[sandy loam]]
*[[silt loam]]
*[[loamy sand]]
*[[silt]]
*[[sand (tan)|sand]]
*[[yellow sand]]
*[[white sand]]
*[[black sand]]
*[[red sand]]
*[[peat]]
*[[pelagic clay]]
*[[calcareous ooze]]
*[[siliceous ooze]]
*[[sandstone]]
*[[conglomerate]]
*[[puddingstone]]
Layers which CAN'T contain aquifers, despite their names suggesting otherwise:
*[[clay]]
*[[silty clay]]
*[[sandy clay]]
*[[clay loam]]
*[[siltstone]]
*[[mudstone]]

== What they do ==

Aquifers are tiles which produce water in their ''neighboring'' tiles -- north, south, east, west, and below. They do not produce water in diagonally adjacent tiles, or in the tile above them.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the downward direction, and you hit an aquifer, the aquifer tile will be revealed as damp soil or stone, and the digging job will be un-designated for that tile.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the ''upward'' direction, and you hit an aquifer from below, the aquifer tile will immediately start producing water in the stairwell, thus leading to a lot of [[Fun]].

== Dealing with aquifers ==

===Probing an aquifer===

You can discover what layer lies below an aquifer layer by digging up/down stairs into the aquifer. This will reveal the tile below the aquifer layer, and if this is non aquifer (for example, clay, ore or bedrock) then you know the aquifer is only 1z deep at that location. This method can only be used to determine whether the aquifer is 1 layer deep, or multiple layers deep, but this is enough to help plan how to penetrate it. Using a pump based method is highly recommended for multiple layer aquifers.

===Going around===

If your embark site is covered by multiple biomes, there is a chance the aquifer is not present in every biome. In some maps this may be indicated by an outcropping of stone in a landscape otherwise composed of soil; in other maps the change in biome might be visible as a change in soil type or vegetation type or density. You might be able to dig down through a biome that doesn't have an aquifer, to a Z-level below the aquifer, and then (if you wish) tunnel beneath the aquifer to the previously inaccessible region.

Even if all the biomes of your site contain aquifers, they might not all be at the same Z-level. So you still might be able to dig down in one biome, reaching a Z-level beneath the aquifer in another biome.

===The ore method===

On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a [[sedimentary layer]] such as sandstone, it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of ore such as [[magnetite]]. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a utility like reveal.exe. The trial and error method can be accomplished somewhat more easily by digging up/down stairs to reveal the layer underneath them without actually digging into the underlying layer. This method is more complicated with aquifers located in layers of [[conglomerate]], as large clusters of [[puddingstone]] will support the aquifer and thus cannot be used to provide a path through it.

===The cave-in method===

Conceptually this method involves removing the aquifer-bearing sand, soil or rock using channeling, and then dropping an island of dry sand, soil or clay into the resulting pond, a staircase can then be dug through the center of the resulting artificial island. This requires at least 2 natural dry layers.

This does not work with [[ wood]] walls since they deconstruct on cave-in.

'''Note:''' There is a bug that may prevent this method from working, collapsed layers may turn into the aquifer layer type that was dug out at that level. So, for example: We have three layers, layer 1 has the caving in section, and is not an aquifer. Layer 2 is a dug out layer that is also not a aquifer. And Layer 3 which is dug out and is an aquifer. Now, the bug, say layer 1's cave-in section lands on layer 3's dug out area, sometimes layer 1's caved in section may change into layer 3's soil type. Making it an aquifer too. Thus making the cave-in method impossible for that area.

====Cave-In Example====

[[File:Aquifer-Plug.png|frame|none|Note: Side View]]

*Dig stairs down to the aquifer. Dig over the aquifer layer but under your "plug". You'll need a 5x5 landmass. (Slide 2)
*Channel out the area the plug will fall into. (Slide 3)
*Leave a single floor tile on top of the plug and dig out the outer layer of your plug. The plug should be a 3x3 landmass now. The single floor tile must keep the plug from falling. (Slide 3)
*Channel out the floor tile holding up the plug. (Slides 4 & 5)
*Construct floor tiles to reach the plug and dig through the middle to get under the aquifer. (Slide 6)

====Cave-In Method for Multiple Layers====

If you build many rings inside one another in your top drop layer, you can breach multi-level aquifers with as little as 2 natural layers of dry soil above it. Drop the rings from the outside to the inside using constructed arms to hold the center rings in place. Once a ring drops into the water below it, pump out the water in the center and dig down another layer. When that is complete, drop the next ring and continue the process until you are through. Since you start dropping rings from the outside it is necessary to know how many levels deep the aquifer is before you begin. 
Tutorial for more than one Aquifier can be found here: [[User:Rhenaya/HowtoDualAquifer]]

===The pump method===

The pumping method uses multiple [[screw pump|pumps]] to keep an area dry long enough to smooth or [[wall]] off the edges, stopping the flow of water. It requires no special environment or resources, other than wood and dwarves (and patience). Most commonly, a moderately sized section of the aquifer layer is channeled out and several screw pumps are built facing it. Directly behind each of the screw pumps a few tiles are channeled out to receive and dispose of the pumped water. When the pumps are activated, they should pump water faster than the aquifer can produce it, allowing masons to smooth or build walls around your future staircase. You ''will'' get job cancellations during this process, as stray 2/7's of water interrupt the building process. Just unsuspend the construction when this happens, as long a dwarf manages to touch the wall before canceling, it will move incrementally toward completion and eventually finish. Depending on the availability of screw pumps and dwarves, you may need to wall off one corner or side at a time, then move the pumps and repeat. When drilling through more than one aquifer layer, be sure to leave yourself enough room to build additional layers of pumps and water disposal channels on lower levels.

Things to consider:
* Flowing water will cause parents to drop their infants, leading to job cancellations and occasionally [[fun]].
* Mechanical [[power]] may come in handy, but dwarf power works just fine and is much more portable.
* Channels can sometimes be used in place of walls, causing water produced by by the aquifer on one level to immediately fall and be consumed by the aquifer on the level below.
* This method may take a while.
* Aquifers do not create water in diagonal tiles, but do create water in hollow tiles directly below them. Therefore, you will want to dig two z-levels below the lowest aquifer layer before continuing with your fortress.

Two [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.0 pump-based implementations] have been tested and found to meet dwarven standards of excellence. 

===The freezing method===

If you are playing in a freezing or very cold landscape, where it snows in winter and instantly freezes water on the map, you can dig out a 3x3 hole in the ground using [[channel]]s, and make it deeper and deeper until you reach the aquifer level. Once you reach the damp rock, tunnel into it with up/down staircases, then channel out the downstairs, the exposed water will turn to ice, digging the up/downstairs before channeling allows the tiles to safely fill with 7/7 water before being frozen, this avoids the hazard of miners being encased in ice and avoids a bug(?) where frozen water which is less than 7/7 deep does not produce a floor above it. The central square of the 3x3 hole should be tunnelable ice, so you can get to the rock beneath.

If your fortress is in a zone that gets warm, build walls around the inside of the hole to stop the water coming in once the ice melts. In order to build a wall around a 1x1 staircase it will be necessary to have a 5x5 hole, since you need to leave an outer ring of ice to seal the aquifer.

If the aquifer is multiple layers deep you will need to start with a sufficiently large hole to account for both an ice wall to seal the aquifer and a constructed wall to seal the ice wall for each layer of the aquifer. A pump based method might be preferable.

===The magma/obsidian method===

If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. By channeling into the aquifer layer and then filling these channels with magma, or by digging staircases and pouring magma down the staircases, it is possible to create a wall of obsidian between your working area and the [[water]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. However, changes to world generation with the last version have made this method more difficult than it once was, as it is now harder to find magma vents that extend above the aquifer level.

===The drainage method===

Having made an initial hole in the aquifer, you may wish to punch another larger hole through, say for example to grow wild strawberries in the caverns. Or you may simply want an additional (natural stone!) staircase. Once you have access from below this is much easier than digging from above, and it has the additional benefit of producing a shaft of exactly the size you want.

Locate the caverns and dig a drainage shaft of up/down stairs or downward stairs up from the caverns to the aquifer (downward stairs function as grates and are far safer than channeling). Once the drainage shaft is complete punch the shaft up through the aquifer (using up/down stairs) until you hit dry dirt. Now mine out the walls around the shaft and build constructed walls to seal the aquifer. It's even faster if the walls are channeled out instead, constructed walls can be built in the open space and water falls straight through, thus construction can always be started and is never suspended. Always build the walls from the highest layer down, so the dwarves aren't having water dumped on them from above.

This method can be used to create arbitrarily large (and shaped) holes. Large holes, which would be impractical to dig from above, are very easy using this technique. It's also extremely useful for digging straight shafts through "layercake" aquifers where aquifer tiles and non-aquifer tiles are intermixed.

===The modding method===

By editing the the raws and removing the [AQUIFER] tag from all of the appropriate entries in inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt it is possible to remove all aquifers from the world. This can be done before creating a new world or after, if you find a particularly neat location ruined only by the presence of an aquifer. In order to modify an existing world, you must delete the [AQUIFER] tag from the raws in the savegame's folder.

=====Command-line (Linux)=====

cd df_linux/raw/objects/
sed -i 's/\[AQUIFER\]/(AQUIFER)/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

and generate world. To edit an already generated world, run the <code>sed</code> command in the <tt>df_linux/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects</tt> folder instead. If you want to restore the tags later, you can do it with the command:

sed -i 's/(AQUIFER)/[AQUIFER]/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

=====Text editor (All operating systems)=====

Find the files in Dwarf Fortress/raw/objects (new world) or Dwarf Fortress/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects (already saved world).

Open the three files with a text editor (e.g. Notepad). (inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt)

Use Edit->Replace, and replace [AQUIFER] with (AQUIFER). (Use 'Replace All').

To restore the tags later, do the same in reverse. (Replacing (AQUIFER) with [AQUIFER]).

== Benefits of aquifers ==
While annoying, aquifers can be useful for building a self-sufficient fortress, and for water-related [[megaprojects]]. Since an aquifer can absorb an infinite amount of water, it can function as a drain for anything above it. For instance, digging a pit in a lower Z level of an aquifer, then connecting it to a breached aquifer a level above through a channel dug a level above ''that'' will create a permanently flowing, compact, secure water/power source completely contained within the fortress.

Aquifers outside [[ocean]] biomes also contain fresh water. Since aquifers are almost always located close to the surface, freshwater aquifers can easily be turned into a source of infinite, secure, non-freezing drinking water for your dwarves, eliminating the need for a [[cistern]]. While both of these roles can also be filled by [[Caverns|cavern]] features, an aquifer allows you to get the same advantages without exposing yourself to potentially dangerous cavern creatures.

== External links ==

* [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.15 QuantumMenace's two-slit method] for breaching aquifers of any depth - Illustrated guide

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.31:Aquifer

2012-01-17T20:29:16Z

Nand: /* Digging with help from below */ - replaced tip to dig out downstairs, with tip to channel out walls, channeling is significantly more straightforward since it also removes the wall below in the same action.

{{quality|Masterwork|15:52, 30 September 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
An '''aquifer''' is a subterranean layer of [[water|groundwater]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. Attempts to mine through the layer will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with [[water]], effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in [[loam]], and [[sand]], makes it difficult to find great quantities of [[stone]] in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

Aquifers can't be drained - the groundwater is limitless. [[stone detailing|Smoothed]] aquifer stone stops producing water. Aquifers located in [[water#Salt_Water|saltwater]] areas will produce salty water. Aquifers do not only produce water - if the incoming water is pressurized, an aquifer tile may instead absorb it. Just like with water production, this ability will not be disabled no matter how much water it absorbs.

== Where they are found ==

Aquifers are less likely to be found near and in mountains.{{verify}}

Layers which CAN contain aquifers:
*[[sandy clay loam]]
*[[silty clay loam]]
*[[loam]]
*[[sandy loam]]
*[[silt loam]]
*[[loamy sand]]
*[[silt]]
*[[sand (tan)|sand]]
*[[yellow sand]]
*[[white sand]]
*[[black sand]]
*[[red sand]]
*[[peat]]
*[[pelagic clay]]
*[[calcareous ooze]]
*[[siliceous ooze]]
*[[sandstone]]
*[[conglomerate]]
*[[puddingstone]]
Layers which CAN'T contain aquifers, despite their names suggesting otherwise:
*[[clay]]
*[[silty clay]]
*[[sandy clay]]
*[[clay loam]]
*[[siltstone]]
*[[mudstone]]

== What they do ==

Aquifers are tiles which produce water in their ''neighboring'' tiles -- north, south, east, west, and below. They do not produce water in diagonally adjacent tiles, or in the tile above them.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the downward direction, and you hit an aquifer, the aquifer tile will be revealed as damp soil or stone, and the digging job will be un-designated for that tile.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the ''upward'' direction, and you hit an aquifer from below, the aquifer tile will immediately start producing water in the stairwell, thus leading to a lot of [[Fun]].

== Dealing with aquifers ==

===Probing an aquifer===

You can discover what layer lies below an aquifer layer by digging up/down stairs into the aquifer. This will reveal the tile below the aquifer layer, and if this is non aquifer (for example, clay, ore or bedrock) then you know the aquifer is only 1z deep at that location. This method can only be used to determine whether the aquifer is 1 layer deep, or multiple layers deep, but this is enough to help plan how to penetrate it. Using a pump based method is highly recommended for multiple layer aquifers.

===Going around===

If your embark site is covered by multiple biomes, there is a chance the aquifer is not present in every biome. In some maps this may be indicated by an outcropping of stone in a landscape otherwise composed of soil; in other maps the change in biome might be visible as a change in soil type or vegetation type or density. You might be able to dig down through a biome that doesn't have an aquifer, to a Z-level below the aquifer, and then (if you wish) tunnel beneath the aquifer to the previously inaccessible region.

Even if all the biomes of your site contain aquifers, they might not all be at the same Z-level. So you still might be able to dig down in one biome, reaching a Z-level beneath the aquifer in another biome.

===The ore method===

On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a [[sedimentary layer]] such as sandstone, it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of ore such as [[magnetite]]. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a utility like reveal.exe. The trial and error method can be accomplished somewhat more easily by digging up/down stairs to reveal the layer underneath them without actually digging into the underlying layer. This method is more complicated with aquifers located in layers of [[conglomerate]], as large clusters of [[puddingstone]] will support the aquifer and thus cannot be used to provide a path through it.

===The cave-in method===

Conceptually this method involves removing the aquifer-bearing sand, soil or rock using channeling, and then dropping an island of dry sand, soil or clay into the resulting pond, a staircase can then be dug through the center of the resulting artificial island. This requires at least 2 natural dry layers.

This does not work with [[ wood]] walls since they deconstruct on cave-in.

'''Note:''' There is a bug that may prevent this method from working, collapsed layers may turn into the aquifer layer type that was dug out at that level. So, for example: We have three layers, layer 1 has the caving in section, and is not an aquifer. Layer 2 is a dug out layer that is also not a aquifer. And Layer 3 which is dug out and is an aquifer. Now, the bug, say layer 1's cave-in section lands on layer 3's dug out area, sometimes layer 1's caved in section may change into layer 3's soil type. Making it an aquifer too. Thus making the cave-in method impossible for that area.

====Cave-In Example====

[[File:Aquifer-Plug.png|frame|none|Note: Side View]]

*Dig stairs down to the aquifer. Dig over the aquifer layer but under your "plug". You'll need a 5x5 landmass. (Slide 2)
*Channel out the area the plug will fall into. (Slide 3)
*Leave a single floor tile on top of the plug and dig out the outer layer of your plug. The plug should be a 3x3 landmass now. The single floor tile must keep the plug from falling. (Slide 3)
*Channel out the floor tile holding up the plug. (Slides 4 & 5)
*Construct floor tiles to reach the plug and dig through the middle to get under the aquifer. (Slide 6)

====Cave-In Method for Multiple Layers====

If you build many rings inside one another in your top drop layer, you can breach multi-level aquifers with as little as 2 natural layers of dry soil above it. Drop the rings from the outside to the inside using constructed arms to hold the center rings in place. Once a ring drops into the water below it, pump out the water in the center and dig down another layer. When that is complete, drop the next ring and continue the process until you are through. Since you start dropping rings from the outside it is necessary to know how many levels deep the aquifer is before you begin. 
Tutorial for more than one Aquifier can be found here: [[User:Rhenaya/HowtoDualAquifer]]

===The pump method===

The pumping method uses multiple [[screw pump|pumps]] to keep an area dry long enough to smooth or [[wall]] off the edges, stopping the flow of water. It requires no special environment or resources, other than wood and dwarves (and patience). Most commonly, a moderately sized section of the aquifer layer is channeled out and several screw pumps are built facing it. Directly behind each of the screw pumps a few tiles are channeled out to receive and dispose of the pumped water. When the pumps are activated, they should pump water faster than the aquifer can produce it, allowing masons to smooth or build walls around your future staircase. You ''will'' get job cancellations during this process, as stray 2/7's of water interrupt the building process. Just unsuspend the construction when this happens, as long a dwarf manages to touch the wall before canceling, it will move incrementally toward completion and eventually finish. Depending on the availability of screw pumps and dwarves, you may need to wall off one corner or side at a time, then move the pumps and repeat. When drilling through more than one aquifer layer, be sure to leave yourself enough room to build additional layers of pumps and water disposal channels on lower levels.

Things to consider:
* Flowing water will cause parents to drop their infants, leading to job cancellations and occasionally [[fun]].
* Mechanical [[power]] may come in handy, but dwarf power works just fine and is much more portable.
* Channels can sometimes be used in place of walls, causing water produced by by the aquifer on one level to immediately fall and be consumed by the aquifer on the level below.
* This method may take a while.
* Aquifers do not create water in diagonal tiles, but do create water in hollow tiles directly below them. Therefore, you will want to dig two z-levels below the lowest aquifer layer before continuing with your fortress.

Two [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.0 pump-based implementations] have been tested and found to meet dwarven standards of excellence. 

===The freezing method===

If you are playing in a freezing or very cold landscape, where it snows in winter and instantly freezes water on the map, you can dig out a 3x3 hole in the ground using [[channel]]s, and make it deeper and deeper until you reach the aquifer level. Once you reach the damp rock, tunnel into it with up/down staircases, then channel out the downstairs, the exposed water will turn to ice, digging the up/downstairs before channeling allows the tiles to safely fill with 7/7 water before being frozen, this avoids the hazard of miners being encased in ice and avoids a bug(?) where frozen water which is less than 7/7 deep does not produce a floor above it. The central square of the 3x3 hole should be tunnelable ice, so you can get to the rock beneath.

If your fortress is in a zone that gets warm, build walls around the inside of the hole to stop the water coming in once the ice melts. In order to build a wall around a 1x1 staircase it will be necessary to have a 5x5 hole, since you need to leave an outer ring of ice to seal the aquifer.

If the aquifer is multiple layers deep you will need to start with a sufficiently large hole to account for both an ice wall to seal the aquifer and a constructed wall to seal the ice wall for each layer of the aquifer. A pump based method might be preferable.

===The magma/obsidian method===

If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. By channeling into the aquifer layer and then filling these channels with magma, or by digging staircases and pouring magma down the staircases, it is possible to create a wall of obsidian between your working area and the [[water]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. However, changes to world generation with the last version have made this method more difficult than it once was, as it is now harder to find magma vents that extend above the aquifer level.

===Digging with help from below===

Having made an initial hole in the aquifer, you may wish to punch another larger hole through, say for example to grow wild strawberries in the caverns. Or you may simply want an additional (natural stone!) staircase. Once you have access from below this is much easier than digging from above, and it has the additional benefit of producing a shaft of exactly the size you want.

Locate the caverns and dig a drainage shaft of up/down stairs or downward stairs up from the caverns to the aquifer (downward stairs function as grates and are far safer than channeling). Once the drainage shaft is complete punch the shaft up through the aquifer (using up/down stairs) until you hit dry dirt. Now mine out the walls around the shaft and build constructed walls to seal the aquifer. It's even faster if the walls are channeled out instead, constructed walls can be built in the open space and water falls straight through, thus construction can always be started and is never suspended. Always build the walls from the highest layer down, so the dwarves aren't having water dumped on them from above.

This method can be used to create arbitrarily large (and shaped) holes. Large holes, which would be impractical to dig from above, are very easy using this technique. It's also extremely useful for digging straight shafts through "layercake" aquifers where aquifer tiles and non-aquifer tiles are intermixed.

===The modding method===

By editing the the raws and removing the [AQUIFER] tag from all of the appropriate entries in inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt it is possible to remove all aquifers from the world. This can be done before creating a new world or after, if you find a particularly neat location ruined only by the presence of an aquifer. In order to modify an existing world, you must delete the [AQUIFER] tag from the raws in the savegame's folder.

=====Command-line (Linux)=====

cd df_linux/raw/objects/
sed -i 's/\[AQUIFER\]/(AQUIFER)/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

and generate world. To edit an already generated world, run the <code>sed</code> command in the <tt>df_linux/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects</tt> folder instead. If you want to restore the tags later, you can do it with the command:

sed -i 's/(AQUIFER)/[AQUIFER]/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

=====Text editor (All operating systems)=====

Find the files in Dwarf Fortress/raw/objects (new world) or Dwarf Fortress/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects (already saved world).

Open the three files with a text editor (e.g. Notepad). (inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt)

Use Edit->Replace, and replace [AQUIFER] with (AQUIFER). (Use 'Replace All').

To restore the tags later, do the same in reverse. (Replacing (AQUIFER) with [AQUIFER]).

== Benefits of aquifers ==
While annoying, aquifers can be useful for building a self-sufficient fortress, and for water-related [[megaprojects]]. Since an aquifer can absorb an infinite amount of water, it can function as a drain for anything above it. For instance, digging a pit in a lower Z level of an aquifer, then connecting it to a breached aquifer a level above through a channel dug a level above ''that'' will create a permanently flowing, compact, secure water/power source completely contained within the fortress.

Aquifers outside [[ocean]] biomes also contain fresh water. Since aquifers are almost always located close to the surface, freshwater aquifers can easily be turned into a source of infinite, secure, non-freezing drinking water for your dwarves, eliminating the need for a [[cistern]]. While both of these roles can also be filled by [[Caverns|cavern]] features, an aquifer allows you to get the same advantages without exposing yourself to potentially dangerous cavern creatures.

== External links ==

* [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.15 QuantumMenace's two-slit method] for breaching aquifers of any depth - Illustrated guide

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.31:Cave adaptation

2012-01-06T23:00:44Z

Nand: Undo revision 159262 by Quietust (talk) Many female humans have facial "fuzz" (but they shave it off). For a ladydwarf this would be enough for the cave adaption explanation to still apply.

{{quality|Exceptional|20:01, 26 December 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

'''Cave adaptation''' is caused by dwarves spending too much time underground with insufficient exposure to outdoor sunlight.

Exposure of cave-adapted dwarves to outdoor sunlight can cause two negative [[thought]]s: "irritated by the sun" and "nauseated by the sun". The latter results from more severe cave adaptation and often results in profuse [[vomit|vomiting]]. Cave adaptation causes no problems if the affected dwarves simply remain [[Tile attributes|underground]].

== Prevention ==
Cave adaptation can be prevented by regular exposure to outdoor sunlight, which can be achieved by having an outdoor [[Activity zone#Meeting Area|meeting area]] or high-traffic areas above ground. You can roof over the above ground area to prevent your dwarves getting rained on, yet it will still prevent cave adaptation. In other words, exposing your dwarves to areas that have ''ever'' been exposed to sunlight will prevent cave adaptation; it doesn't matter whether those areas have since been roofed over.

== Treatment ==
Cave adaptation can be treated the same way that it's prevented. However, due to the negative thoughts brought about by exposure to light in cave-adaptated dwarves, these outdoor areas should be well decorated with [[statue]]s or the like. This should provide enough positive thoughts to negate those caused by cave adaptation. The progress of treating severe cave adaptation can be observed through '''Thoughts and Preferences''', as limited exposure to sunlight will first convert severe cave adaptation into mild cave adaptation; see [[DF2010:Personality trait#Personality-Trait-Like Characteristics|Personality traits]] for details.

== Explanation ==
{{D for Dwarf}}
'''A [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=85908.msg2321608#msg2321608 scientific explanation] of cave adaptation by Deus Machina.'''

Underground has low levels of light and very little air circulation.

Dwarves develop low-light vision (plump helmets are packed with beta carotene!) and their facial follicles become sensitive to the motions that a breeze produces against their beards, which allows them to tell where tunnels turn.

As they go deeper, their eyes become less relied upon, and they adapt further to rely on their whisker-based folli-cation.

These eventually become so sensitive that, should a dwarf venture outside, the wind is the equivalent of multicolored and varying strobe lights. This is as aggravating to a dwarf's folli-cation as a Pink Floyd show seen while sober is to our sight, up to the point of causing nausea.

{{Category|Dwarves}}

v0.31 Talk:Maximizing framerate

2012-01-06T06:10:31Z

Nand: /* Setting "normal" pathing cost to 1 */ new section

==World Gen editing to speed Fortress Mode==

On an old slow computer, I have found that editing the world_gen.txt file in the date/init folder to help:

[CAVERN_LAYER_COUNT:3] - reduce for fewer cavern layers, so less fun, but more speed.
[CAVERN_LAYER_OPENNESS_MIN:0]
[CAVERN_LAYER_OPENNESS_MAX:20] not entirely sure what these do, but these were the figures when I stopped testing.
[CAVERN_LAYER_PASSAGE_DENSITY_MIN:0]
[CAVERN_LAYER_PASSAGE_DENSITY_MAX:0] restricts the density of passages, at these figures the caves are not filled with tiny passages

Since I haven't tested exhaustively I don't feel this should be on the front page yet. - JimiD

==More World Gen editing to speed Fortress Mode==

I did some similar testing but instead of changing the number of cavern layers I changed the size of the caverns themselves. The defaults are '''Minimum Natural Cave Size 5, Maximum Natural Cave Size 25'''. I lowered these to 4 and 12 and ended up with a map with less than 40 z levels below ground. This significantly improved performance, load and save time without sacrificing the cave features. In fact it's a little funner since I don't have to travel so far to get to magma. Currently I'm running close to 50 dwarves and I'm noticing almost no hiccups or drop in frame rate(from 100).

I have only tested this on one map and each cavern layer has exactly 5 z levels each which is odd. More testing needs to be done to get exact figures but it does seem to be an excellent alternative to lowering the number of caves or the size of embark. Using this method, increasing the embark size isn't out of the question.

I tested this map on my 1.6GHZ EeePC Netbook and got a reliable framerate of 34, which is quite playable. - Lemunde
::maybe you are confusing rare '''natural caves''' (familiar from 40d version, home to megabeasts, see worldgen-exported sites_and_pops.txt) with the new Cavern Layers which are guaranteed under every embark area. (.31.12) --[[User:TomiTapio|TomiTapio]] 00:49, 26 July 2010 (UTC)

==Importance of Speedup==

I think this is a really important feature which should have a high priority. Maybe this page can get some special attention on the front page along with other pages with high priority?
A lot of people just don't play anymore with all of the graphics problems in this version, which is sad.

Another possibility here is for an explanation of the various init.txt settings, they can really change a LOT in your performance. - Nether
:: try a 3x2 embark. --[[User:TomiTapio|TomiTapio]] 00:49, 26 July 2010 (UTC)

==Obsolete for the current version in italic==

I have changed the parts where it is explained that the action is obsolete for the current version into italic font. I believe that this is a minor change which makes the page a lot easier to read.
- Nether

==How true is any of this?==
I've applied the various recommendations given here and noticed absolutely no speedup. Getting rid of thousands of items by atom smashing or gifting to merchants? Nothing. Caging and uncaging fifty animals? Nothing. Blocking off the outside, or the cavern levels, with a locked door, a bridge, a floodgate, a channel? Nothing. Turning off my indoor waterfall was the only thing that seemed to help, getting me about 8FPS extra, from 25 to 33FPS with 105 dorfs. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 20:34, 10 November 2010 (UTC)

== PRINT_MODE: TEXT ==

Changing PRINT_MODE to TEXT increases my framerate to max (linux). Certain keypresses are however not noticed in terminal, such as shift + arrow key as well as the function keys.
--[[User:Questionmark|Questionmark]] 21:03, 27 November 2010 (UTC)
:PRINT_MODE: TEXT (vs 2D) made zero difference for me on Linux (Ubuntu 10.04) [[Special:Contributions/202.156.10.234|202.156.10.234]] 13:08, 14 December 2010 (UTC)

== Success Stories ==

Losing is [[Fun]]! But there's nothing fun about abandoning your fortress because the framerate has dropped to 6. For many, more fortresses are lost to FPS death than anything else, and improving framerate remains a something of a mystery. If you find something that works, please share it here.

===From 40fps to 140fps===

''pc: 2.2ghz 1.5gb ram. fortress: 2x2 embark, 40-50 dwarves, 130 animals. temp & weather off. 1 cavern''

This fort ran at 150fps for a while but gradually after 11 years slowed to 27.
At this point I've focused my efforts exclusively on maximizing framerate, trying the usual tricks:
* Atom-smashing: no help AT ALL.
* Animal slaughtering / caging: gained 10-15fps for killing about 50 animals.
* Then I notice that my dwarves are FILTHY! Some having over 10+ pages of various blood and pus spatterings in their inventories.
I dig a crude bath, which consists of a hallway which dips down into a brief channel and back up before hitting a dead end.
I designate a Pond zone over the channel and the dwarves waste no time in drawing a bath (1/7 deep).
After designating a burrow on the other side of the bath, I order the entire fortress to it via the Alerts screen (restricting them to that burrow).
Immediately upon crossing the channel my framerate went from ~40 to ~140 and it is decided the fortress will live on!

'''Conclusion''': The amount of items on the map and pathfinding were very minor causes of slowdown in my case. The increases gained from slaughtering animals may well have been from their [[Contaminant|contaminants]] being destroyed in the process rather than the pathing they were calculating. Above all, the contaminants were the cause of this fortresses near-demise. --[[User:Uninvited Guest|Uninvited Guest]] 07:27, 1 December 2010 (UTC)

===From 11fps to 24fps===

''pc: 2.1ghz 2gb ram. fortress: 2x2 embark (i think), 110 dwarves, 100 animals.''

As this was my first playthough, I didnt noticed any strange (only that the game was designed to be a bit too low) until I read somewhere about the framerate problems, so I activated mine to show them and saw i was at 11 fps!

I found this guide, and followed the previous case example, I skipped killing animals, or smashing objects, and when straight for the dwarf-wash.

I downloaded DFHacks (http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=58809) and made some 7 high water blocks on some chocke points. After unpausing, the whole place was full of mud and blood, so used the dfcleanmap on the same utility pack to make then dissapear.

My FPS went straight to 24 fps; Basically I now see everything x2 the speed i was used to see!

BTW, be carefull with this method, I killed 3 dogs by accident as they smashed on other objects (tidal force I guess) and the 3 of them were pets of my main warrior, who is very angry now! I fear a lot of fun is comming xD

'''Conclusion''': I did not tried any of the other methods, so I cant say they dont work, but I can say, that the filthiness of the dwarf population have a HUGE impact on FPS.
'''Krelian'''

===From 11fps to 32fps===

Started looking into why my fort had suddenly slowed down from thirty to almost less than ten fps and looking through here I found that a while ago I had un-penned a lot of animals and most of them had accidentally gotten some blood covering on themselves. Using dfliquids to create a 2/7 of water on top of all animals and after stepping forward three or four frames ran the dfcleanmap to clean the resulting blood pools instantly raised fps to almost three-times of what it was.

'''Conclusion''': (To mimic Krelian) The filthiness of any part of your creature population has a HUGE impact on fps.
--[[User:Egodeus|Egodeus]] 16:09, 1 June 2011 (UTC)

Whoops. Apparently I had forgotten one dorf to pull a lever on repeat. As it was connected to eleven doors, this caused quite a lot of lag as each caused changes in the pathing and blah. Totally forgot to turn that of. Whoopdidah. Cleaning still helped a lot. --[[User:Egodeus|Egodeus]] 16:31, 1 June 2011 (UTC)

== Running water ==

Nice work by DeMatt in tidying up this page.

Is there any reason running water isn't mentioned? I was under the impression brooks and rivers were big FPS killers, at least in previous versions. Perhaps a sentence about having an off switch for any mist generators, too?

[[User:Bognor|Bognor]] 14:39, 4 January 2011 (UTC)
:Short answer - I forgot. So did Gzalzi. So me using his revamp as a reference for my revamp missed it. I'll go put a note in. If it's something that is pretty much inarguable, feel free to add your own points; take care to explain it clearly. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 19:19, 4 January 2011 (UTC)
::Yeah, I pretty much just edited the information that was already on the page to make it sound better, rather than adding anything else to it. --[[User:Gzalzi|Gzalzi]] 20:04, 4 January 2011 (UTC)
Cool, that was what I'd guessed... Glad it's in now. Copyeditors/Wiki-gnomes are valuable creatures. [[User:Bognor|Bognor]] 13:38, 5 January 2011 (UTC)

== D_init.txt Option: WALKING_SPREADS_SPATTER ==

On [[DF2010:Release_information/0.31.16]] the following is listed under "New stuff":
<blockquote>
* added spatter init options (dwarf mode defaults to no walking spread of spatter)
</blockquote>
However, on the [[DF2010:Maximizing framerate]] page, under "Contaminants", it mentions these D_init options and immediately following it says "(as of {{version|0.31.18}})". This implies that said options were first introduced with {{version|0.31.18}}, which seems to be untrue. Further, it completely fails to mention what these D_init options are called.
As such, I am editing the page to be more accurate and specific. --[[User:Thundercraft|Thundercraft]] 08:27, 19 February 2011 (UTC)

== Setting "normal" pathing cost to 1 ==

I've noticed this inclusion has been controversial in the past (I am not the person who included it or earlier removed it). I checked the reference, and I believe that Urist Da Vinci is correct. The way to understand this is that the A* pathing algorithm is guaranteed to produce the shortest path. This means it must eliminate alternative possibilities, by searching them also.

Imagine a simple setup like this, or create it in game. The blank spaces (.'s) are normal pathing cost, the H are high pathing areas, the dwarf is travelling from A to B.

<code>
<nowiki>##############################</nowiki> 
<nowiki>A............................B</nowiki> 
<nowiki>##.########################.##</nowiki> 
<nowiki>.#.....HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.....#</nowiki> 
<nowiki>.############################</nowiki> 
</code>

If you test this, you note that the game does find "long cut" and the dwarves take it, avoiding the short cut. The pathfinder thus explores both branches to discover which is shorter. But when the pathing cost is all 1's, it can just search "as the crow flies", find the destination, and be confident that it has found the shortest route. It *can't* do that if the tiles it is searching are cost 2, because there might always be an alternative route containing some cost 1 tiles. Thus it needs to search much further and wider to preclude the possibility of alternative, shorter, routes.

I'm actually not convinced there would ever be a benefit in using the default settings / high pathing areas. Perhaps it would help the pathfinder to locate stairwells and such, but I have my doubts. Perhaps it would be good if someone was to test fiddling around with things in a large, complicated fortress with many dwarves, and see what impacts on framerate there are? Maybe there's something special about DF's pathfinder heuristics which means it doesn't quite work as we'd expect (although I doubt it). 
--[[User:Nand|Nand]] 06:10, 6 January 2012 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Water

2011-12-29T10:57:23Z

Nand: /* Salty Water */

==Stagnant Water==
I just tested Khym Chanur's theory, and I think it is false. Embarked on a forest biome, set up my bookkeeper for stock info, and began filling ponds. Water from the stream is not stagnant. Water from the murky pool is. Built a 1 z-level deep underground reservoir connected to the stream, water taken from it is not stagnant. Created an underground reservoir connected to the murky pool. Water taken from it is stagnant. Embarked on a swamp. Water taken from the stream is stagnant. It's a biome thing, and has nothing to do with z-levels. Swamp biomes and murky pools produce stagnant water. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 16:40, 10 June 2011 (UTC)

: Oops, you're right. -- [[User:Khym Chanur|Khym Chanur]]

:This doesn't seem to be true either. I have a fortress that crosses two biomes, neither of which are wetland (temperate freshwater lake and temperate coniferous forest). The site has a lake (obviously) and a river. Water taken directly from both, observed in buckets, was stagnant; I was only able to get clean water by tapping the aquifer. I haven't tested exhaustively but here I am staring at a bucket of stagnant water taken directly from a lake, not a murky pool, in a non-wetlands site. By the current text of this article, this can't exist. There are so many variables in my situation, however, that I couldn't even guess as to the real cause of my stagnation. --[[User:Polycarp|Polycarp]] 04:35, 3 July 2011 (UTC)

== Water as cushioning ==

Tried dropping various creatures in various places in arena mode. Everything survives 1z drops unharmed. 2z is damaging. 3z is more often than not lethal. Water appears to cushion falls. I dropped things from the top of the arena into the 3z deep end of the water and they weren't injured at all, though they quickly drowned due to not being swimmers. Also tried dropping people in 3z of magma. Magma seems to provide less cushioning than water. And then they burn. Suggest making irrationally large (200-300z or so) drops into various depths of water to test cushioning effect. [[User:Rkyeun|Rkyeun]] 04:44, 5 April 2010 (UTC)
:It's worth noting that layers of water in previous versions did not cushion your fall so much as the depth of the water didn't increase it. I.e. the drop damage was calculated by the amount of air you fell through. Is that a possibility here? --[[User:Eagle0600|Eagle0600]] 05:24, 5 April 2010 (UTC)
::This appears to be actual cushioning. Creatures fell 5-6z before hitting the water and falling another 3z. If the water simply didn't count, they'd have splatted as normal for a 6z fall. Instead they were unharmed and seemingly unaware that they should swim to safety. Or merely unable to. [[User:Rkyeun|Rkyeun]] 16:41, 31 May 2010 (UTC)

== Contamination ==

I've built a very large reservoir (currently 30x25x4 approx) on some ground that had mountain goat blood on it. There is also a small amount of mountain goat and dwarf blood on the area around the reservoir. On overflowing the reservoir (which is fed from the top by a "clean" source), I get blood EVERYWHERE the water flows, seemingly on evaporation of the water. There's now far more blood spread around than the creatures had originally... anyone seen similar? --[[User:Nimblewright|Nimblewright]] 21:21, 8 April 2010 (UTC)
: I did some arena tests with blood and water. apparently adding a 7/7 tile of water on top of a pool of blood creates more pools of blood which are pushed out to the edges of the water as it moves. This behavior may be a bug. There is an open ticket about the subject on the bug tracker here with my full results. [[http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/mantisbt/view.php?id=296]] - [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 01:31, 9 April 2010 (UTC)
: This appears to be fixed in 31.16 [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 00:05, 4 November 2010 (UTC)

:: I'm grumbling a bit at my water reservoir. My Dwarves have apparently declared it to be contaminated and refuse to drink from it any more. This is especially annoying since I was quite careful to make sure not to let any dead animals fall into the reservoir, it should all be nice clean water. But for some reason, it is not. I'm curious if anybody has any useful tricks to help prevent this issue. --[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 13:56, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== Verifications of old behavior ==

*U-bend test from a river fills to z-1 as expected
*U-bend test from a murky pool fills to z-1 as expected
*channeling directly from a river temporarily has no flow, but soon becomes naturally flowing as expected
*screw pump to a dead end one level above a river generates natural flow as expected
*Diagonal connections neutralize water pressure as expected
*Diagonal connections do not prevent the spread of flow as expected
*Reactor#3 built as a perpetual motion test -- behaves as expected

*some flow artifacts at the bottom of both U-bends -- this was always a bit quirky, but should run more tests
*screw pump from a murky pool in a 1x18 channel which doubles back to the murky pond generates reliable flow -- '''possible change in flow mechanics'''
*Screw pump from z-2 one level below the river, pushing into a 1x100 channel generates flow only near the end of the channel where the water is still filling. Behaves as expected, the previous test appears to be a fluke.

I'm running through a battery of tests here, I will update this with my results. The one surprise so far is the murky pool test. In 40d a similar test would quickly become saturated with 7/7 water and only indicate flow at the end of the channel. need to test that more to make sure this isn't a fluke. I will continue to update this as I verify more things. Once I have a bit more information I'll start updating the water pages. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 01:26, 9 April 2010 (UTC)

: Ran a new variation of the long channel flow test using a level drop this time to break the natural flow effect from the river. This time I got the expected result of many tiles of still water with a small amount of flowing water near the end of the channel where it had not yet filled. This does however mean I'm using pressurized water this time which might be worth a bit more investigation. This also demonstrates the simplest form of water teleportation which is what is believed to be why flow of this nature fails to appear. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 19:53, 10 April 2010 (UTC)

== Springs? ==

Reading this article mentions that water can come from springs... and it's linked. I hadn't heard of this before, so I followed the link and it redirected to Calendar; it meant springtime. I removed the link for now, but do water-springs occur? Someone who knows either remove the term in this article or work on the Spring page. --[[User:Waladil|Waladil]] 04:33, 8 June 2010 (UTC)
:"Springs" probably refers to mountain brooks. At the head of each brook, there is a spidery section of water, and at the end of each "finger" of water there is a "river source" tile that can be viewed with {{k|k}}. These are infinite sources of water, and probably what the article refers to.[[User:JohnnyMadhouse|JohnnyMadhouse]] 04:43, 8 June 2010 (UTC)
:: the source of many rivers is a spring, it's a weird spidery looking thing that is a direct source of water. They can sometimes be found on open plains. They are often found deep in the mountains. If you have one in your embark map, they have some odd properties as discussed in the wiki. They will have a number of tiles that are treated as water sources, which will constantly and rapidly refill to 7/7 water providing and endless supply of water. a collapse above these tiles will break this effect. This is different from the much more common behavior of off map water sources where you have and edge of map tile that will constantly refill. Edge of map tiles cannot be destroyed. --[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 15:41, 10 June 2010 (UTC)
::: Well thanks for the answer... someone might want to make a Spring(Water) page as opposed to the Spring(Season) page... Either one of you guys prolly could... I don't have any firsthand knowledge, so I prolly shouldn't. --[[User:Waladil|Waladil]] 00:48, 11 June 2010 (UTC)

== fortifications on map edge to drain fluid away ==
They say you can designate fortifications on edge tiles to drain fluid off the map. --[[User:TomiTapio|TomiTapio]] 13:44, 15 July 2010 (UTC)
: You can't dig out an edge tile. If there is solid ground there it is there to stay. Just to double-check I even tried to carve fortifications out of an edge tile. as expected, it doesn't work. You can smooth and engrave the wall if you so wish but cannot otherwise remove or alter it. However in underground complexes it is common to have open spaces at the edge of map. In this case you can choose to place walls (or fortifications) right up at the edge of the map. On the surface of the world where caravans travel, you may not place any structures within 5 tiles of the edge. --[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 17:37, 15 July 2010 (UTC)
:: Actually, I've done the fortification trick. If you smooth the edge wall, you can carve fortifications in it and use it to drain an infinite amount of water/magma. [[Special:Contributions/64.255.180.84|64.255.180.84]] 16:16, 9 August 2010 (UTC)
::: Even in version 0.31? It's well known that this was possible in 40d (though only with water), but some things have changed since then. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 16:53, 9 August 2010 (UTC)
:::: Smoothing it first you say? I'll have to verify that later, if true that's useful to know. --[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 01:16, 10 August 2010 (UTC)
:::::Works fine, if you do this to a wall at waterlevel in a cavern near a part of the edge that generates water you can create real easy power supplies.--[[User:MLegion|MLegion]] 09:24, 10 August 2010 (UTC)

I once drained water into an open-sided (dry) cavern and it worked fine, the water went off the edge. So I later tried the same thing but into a cavern-lake that was open to the map edge. Ha big mistake. It flooded. I guess lakes in caverns that are open-edged (water to the edge) have some equilibrium mechanism so they don't drain themselves away (makes sense now that I think about it), so adding water to such a system will flood it. I got the right floodgate shut and the water is going away, but I'm not sure where it's going. Will try the fortifications trick, or maybe redirect the exit channel to a dry cave space.--[[User:Dwarvenjames|Dwarvenjames]] 15:29, 10 August 2011 (UTC)

== Freezing documentation? ==

Source water that freezes in colder months won't freeze if piped to an underground area. Rather, the source will freeze, but the water already underground won't become ice. I made an elaborate magma heating system, only to realize that it actually wasn't needed.

== Communicating vessels don't work ==

I've tested it with a very simple two z layers setup (see below), and it doesn't seem to work. I think this should be a bug.
Because it provides many interesting engineering and opportunities for fun.

The setup is two pools separated by a wall, which are channeled below them, without a wall separating them. Filling one should raise the water level in the other.
The profile is like this:
<pre>Level Z: ====# #
Level Z-1: #=======#
Level Z-2: #########
</pre>
The right part in level Z should have water too.
[[Special:Contributions/89.141.113.238|89.141.113.238]] 20:00, 17 November 2010 (UTC)

: You've basically just built a sloppy u-bend. This is consistent with the current pressure rules. U-bends push water back up to Z-1 not to Z as you might expect. I suspect the reason for this quirk is to avoid an infinite loop with water bouncing back and forth in a U. --[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 22:29, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

== Murky pool + rain = no evaporation ==

Beware: water from a [[murky pool]] appears to never evaporate in the rain. Free-flowing, unconstrained water will stay at level 1; the rain will add to the perma-water and cause it to spread horizontally.

The effect seems to be tied to the original tiles of the pool. I used such a pool to irrigate a subterranean farm plot. Even indoors, the water never evaporated and spread further into my fortress, until I managed to wall off the farm from the original pool tiles.

I was only able to do construct such a wall by knocking out more boundary walls of the pool, toward some open plains. This allowed newly-fallen perma-water to flow away from my farm long enough to build a wall. Unfortunately I appear to be on an embark where it never stops raining; six years in, the level-1 perma-water has spread to cover an area of about 70x40. It has spread in a large circle (bounded by other walls of my mountain) with the original murky pool site at its center. I have never seen any tiles evaporate or recede. --[[User:Squeaky|Squeaky]] 22:00, 29 November 2010 (UTC)

Is your TEMPERATURE: ON? Maybe there's a bug in it relating to the necessary heat to evaporate water. Try to take some water from this pool and ponding it elsewhere and see if it evaporates for the good of !!SCIENCE!!-Anon 16 December 2010

: While this is uncommon, it is not unusual. It's a safe bet that you are in a wet jungle biome. A nice wet/warm biome and murky pools refill VERY quickly. They refill so quickly in fact that like you described, they just never stop dumping new water into your fort. Assuming it's not already a lost cause, you can probably get control of this situation by cutting a nice channel to control the flow of water long enough to get some walls up and contain the flooding. --[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 13:55, 18 February 2011 (UTC)

:: Workaround: If you build a roof over the pool it will dry out eventually. [[User:Angela Christine|Angela Christine]] 00:19, 16 March 2011 (UTC)
:::That will work if the water level is low. You could simply construct something (floor?) on the murky pool tiles. That removes the "special" tag that allows rain to pool there. --[[User:Kwieland|Kwieland]] 03:34, 7 July 2011 (UTC)

== Salty Water ==
The page mentions that if salty water touches any natural, non-constructed walls or floors, it will become salty again. However, this is currently at least somewhat disputed, as you can see in this forum thread http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=95811.0 Should we put up a notification that this theory of salinization is disputed? --[[Special:Contributions/173.167.163.13|173.167.163.13]] 17:00, 9 November 2011 (UTC)

Someone removed the last bit under salt water about dwarves getting unhappy thoughts from using a well above a salt water source. Can someone confirm and perhaps add the information again, except more succinctly this time?--[[User:Introprospector|Introprospector]] 09:26, 29 December 2011 (UTC)
=== Explanation ===
At present it seems that dwarves do not receive unhappy thoughts from drinking salt water beyond that of normal water: http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=95811.msg2739621#msg2739621 and essentially my approach was to go with the bare facts. What people make of those facts is up to them. Perhaps it might be worthwhile saying something along the lines of "dwarves do not seem to suffer negative effects from consuming salt water, but that they can at all is almost certainly a bug"

The problem is that we would also need to mention that desalination is also probably a bug, and that the way saltiness propagates is also probably a bug (or an "artifact" of other water-management code) and is very likely to change - on the other hand, toady might actually be content for these oddities to exist.

In the case where science has overthrown popular belief, I think a line referencing the debunked myth is necessary, but otherwise I think that the various behaviors surrounding salt water are unrealistic and unexpected is self-evident, thus there's no need to mention it and it's enough to go with the bare facts. Not that I'd press the matter as long as what is said is factually correct.
---[[User:Nand|Nand]] 10:57, 29 December 2011 (UTC)

v0.31:Aquifer

2011-12-29T10:21:06Z

Nand: /* Dealing with aquifers */ Performed further rearrangement within individual methods, simplified entries, and added refinements.

{{quality|Masterwork|15:52, 30 September 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
An '''aquifer''' is a subterranean layer of [[water|groundwater]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. Attempts to mine through the layer will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with [[water]], effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in [[loam]], and [[sand]], makes it difficult to find great quantities of [[stone]] in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

Aquifers can't be drained - the groundwater is limitless. [[stone detailing|Smoothed]] aquifer stone stops producing water. Aquifers located in [[water#Salt_Water|saltwater]] areas will produce salty water. Aquifers do not only produce water - if the incoming water is pressurized, an aquifer tile may instead absorb it. Just like with water production, this ability will not be disabled no matter how much water it absorbs.

== Where they are found ==

Aquifers are less likely to be found near and in mountains.{{verify}}

Layers which CAN contain aquifers:
*[[sandy clay loam]]
*[[silty clay loam]]
*[[loam]]
*[[sandy loam]]
*[[silt loam]]
*[[loamy sand]]
*[[silt]]
*[[sand (tan)|sand]]
*[[yellow sand]]
*[[white sand]]
*[[black sand]]
*[[red sand]]
*[[peat]]
*[[pelagic clay]]
*[[calcareous ooze]]
*[[siliceous ooze]]
*[[sandstone]]
*[[conglomerate]]
*[[puddingstone]]
Layers which CAN'T contain aquifers, despite their names suggesting otherwise:
*[[clay]]
*[[silty clay]]
*[[sandy clay]]
*[[clay loam]]
*[[siltstone]]
*[[mudstone]]

== What they do ==

Aquifers are tiles which produce water in their ''neighboring'' tiles -- north, south, east, west, and below. They do not produce water in diagonally adjacent tiles, or in the tile above them.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the downward direction, and you hit an aquifer, the aquifer tile will be revealed as damp soil or stone, and the digging job will be un-designated for that tile.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the ''upward'' direction, and you hit an aquifer from below, the aquifer tile will immediately start producing water in the stairwell, thus leading to a lot of [[Fun]].

== Dealing with aquifers ==

===Probing an aquifer===

You can discover what layer lies below an aquifer layer by digging up/down stairs into the aquifer. This will reveal the tile below the aquifer layer, and if this is non aquifer (for example, clay, ore or bedrock) then you know the aquifer is only 1z deep at that location. This method can only be used to determine whether the aquifer is 1 layer deep, or multiple layers deep, but this is enough to help plan how to penetrate it. Using a pump based method is highly recommended for multiple layer aquifers.

===Going around===

If your embark site is covered by multiple biomes, there is a chance the aquifer is not present in every biome. In some maps this may be indicated by an outcropping of stone in a landscape otherwise composed of soil; in other maps the change in biome might be visible as a change in soil type or vegetation type or density. You might be able to dig down through a biome that doesn't have an aquifer, to a Z-level below the aquifer, and then (if you wish) tunnel beneath the aquifer to the previously inaccessible region.

Even if all the biomes of your site contain aquifers, they might not all be at the same Z-level. So you still might be able to dig down in one biome, reaching a Z-level beneath the aquifer in another biome.

===The ore method===

On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a [[sedimentary layer]] such as sandstone, it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of ore such as magnetite. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a utility like reveal.exe. The trial and error method can be accomplished somewhat more easily by digging up/down stairs to reveal the layer underneath them without actually digging into the underlying layer. This method is more complicated with aquifers located in layers of [[conglomerate]], as large clusters of [[puddingstone]] will support the aquifer and thus cannot be used to provide a path through it.

===The cave-in method===

Conceptually this method involves removing the aquifer-bearing sand, soil or rock using channeling, and then dropping an island of dry sand, soil or clay into the resulting pond, a staircase can then be dug through the center of the resulting artificial island. This requires at least 2 natural dry layers.

This does not work with [[ wood]] walls since they deconstruct on cave-in.

'''Note:''' There is a bug that may prevent this method from working, collapsed layers may turn into the aquifer layer type that was dug out at that level. So, for example: We have three layers, layer 1 has the caving in section, and is not an aquifer. Layer 2 is a dug out layer that is also not a aquifer. And Layer 3 which is dug out and is an aquifer. Now, the bug, say layer 1's cave-in section lands on layer 3's dug out area, sometimes layer 1's caved in section may change into layer 3's soil type. Making it an aquifer too. Thus making the cave-in method impossible for that area.

====Cave-In Example====

[[File:Aquifer-Plug.png|frame|none|Note: Side View]]

*Dig stairs down to the aquifer. Dig over the aquifer layer but under your "plug". You'll need a 5x5 landmass. (Slide 2)
*Channel out the area the plug will fall into. (Slide 3)
*Leave a single floor tile on top of the plug and dig out the outer layer of your plug. The plug should be a 3x3 landmass now. The single floor tile must keep the plug from falling. (Slide 3)
*Channel out the floor tile holding up the plug. (Slides 4 & 5)
*Construct floor tiles to reach the plug and dig through the middle to get under the aquifer. (Slide 6)

====Cave-In Method for Multiple Layers====

If you build many rings inside one another in your top drop layer, you can breach multi-level aquifers with as little as 2 natural layers of dry soil above it. Drop the rings from the outside to the inside using constructed arms to hold the center rings in place. Once a ring drops into the water below it, pump out the water in the center and dig down another layer. When that is complete, drop the next ring and continue the process until you are through. Since you start dropping rings from the outside it is necessary to know how many levels deep the aquifer is before you begin. 
Tutorial for more than one Aquifier can be found here: [[User:Rhenaya/HowtoDualAquifer]]

===The pump method===

The pumping method uses multiple [[screw pump|pumps]] to keep an area dry long enough to smooth or [[wall]] off the edges, stopping the flow of water. It requires no special environment or resources, other than wood and dwarves (and patience). Most commonly, a moderately sized section of the aquifer layer is channeled out and several screw pumps are built facing it. Directly behind each of the screw pumps a few tiles are channeled out to receive and dispose of the pumped water. When the pumps are activated, they should pump water faster than the aquifer can produce it, allowing masons to smooth or build walls around your future staircase. You ''will'' get job cancellations during this process, as stray 2/7's of water interrupt the building process. Just unsuspend the construction when this happens, as long a dwarf manages to touch the wall before canceling, it will move incrementally toward completion and eventually finish. Depending on the availability of screw pumps and dwarves, you may need to wall off one corner or side at a time, then move the pumps and repeat. When drilling through more than one aquifer layer, be sure to leave yourself enough room to build additional layers of pumps and water disposal channels on lower levels.

Things to consider:
* Flowing water will cause parents to drop their infants, leading to job cancellations and occasionally [[fun]].
* Mechanical [[power]] may come in handy, but dwarf power works just fine and is much more portable.
* Channels can sometimes be used in place of walls, causing water produced by by the aquifer on one level to immediately fall and be consumed by the aquifer on the level below.
* This method may take a while.
* Aquifers do not create water in diagonal tiles, but do create water in hollow tiles directly below them. Therefore, you will want to dig two z-levels below the lowest aquifer layer before continuing with your fortress.

Two [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.0 pump-based implementations] have been tested and found to meet dwarven standards of excellence. 

===The freezing method===

If you are playing in a freezing or very cold landscape, where it snows in winter and instantly freezes water on the map, you can dig out a 3x3 hole in the ground using [[channel]]s, and make it deeper and deeper until you reach the aquifer level. Once you reach the damp rock, tunnel into it with up/down staircases, then channel out the downstairs, the exposed water will turn to ice, digging the up/downstairs before channeling allows the tiles to safely fill with 7/7 water before being frozen, this avoids the hazard of miners being encased in ice and avoids a bug(?) where frozen water which is less than 7/7 deep does not produce a floor above it. The central square of the 3x3 hole should be tunnelable ice, so you can get to the rock beneath.

If your fortress is in a zone that gets warm, build walls around the inside of the hole to stop the water coming in once the ice melts. In order to build a wall around a 1x1 staircase it will be necessary to have a 5x5 hole, since you need to leave an outer ring of ice to seal the aquifer.

If the aquifer is multiple layers deep you will need to start with a sufficiently large hole to account for both an ice wall to seal the aquifer and a constructed wall to seal the ice wall for each layer of the aquifer. A pump based method might be preferable.

===The magma/obsidian method===

If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. By channeling into the aquifer layer and then filling these channels with magma, or by digging staircases and pouring magma down the staircases, it is possible to create a wall of obsidian between your working area and the [[water]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. However, changes to world generation with the last version have made this method more difficult than it once was, as it is now harder to find magma vents that extend above the aquifer level.

===Digging with help from below===

Having made an initial hole in the aquifer, you may wish to punch another larger hole through, say for example to grow wild strawberries in the caverns. Or you may simply want an additional (natural stone!) staircase. Once you have access from below this is much easier than digging from above, and it has the additional benefit of producing a shaft of exactly the size you want.

Locate the caverns and dig a drainage shaft of up/down stairs or downward stairs up from the caverns to the aquifer (downward stairs function as grates and are far safer than channeling). Once the drainage shaft is complete punch the shaft up through the aquifer (using up/down stairs) until you hit dry dirt. Now mine out the walls around the shaft and build constructed walls to seal the aquifer. It's even easier, if instead of mining the walls, downward stairs are dug out instead, a wall can be built directly on top of stairs and they allow the water to fall directly through, thus construction can always be started and is never suspended. Always build the walls from the highest layer down, so the dwarves aren't having water dumped on them from above.

This method can be used to create arbitrarily large (and shaped) holes. Large holes, which would be impractical to dig from above, are very easy using this technique. It's also extremely useful for digging straight shafts through "layercake" aquifers where aquifer tiles and non-aquifer tiles are intermixed.

===The modding method===

By editing the the raws and removing the [AQUIFER] tag from all of the appropriate entries in inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt it is possible to remove all aquifers from the world. This can be done before creating a new world or after, if you find a particularly neat location ruined only by the presence of an aquifer. In order to modify an existing world, you must delete the [AQUIFER] tag from the raws in the savegame's folder.

=====Command-line (Linux)=====

cd df_linux/raw/objects/
sed -i 's/\[AQUIFER\]/(AQUIFER)/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

and generate world. To edit an already generated world, run the <code>sed</code> command in the <tt>df_linux/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects</tt> folder instead. If you want to restore the tags later, you can do it with the command:

sed -i 's/(AQUIFER)/[AQUIFER]/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

=====Text editor (All operating systems)=====

Find the files in Dwarf Fortress/raw/objects (new world) or Dwarf Fortress/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects (already saved world).

Open the three files with a text editor (e.g. Notepad). (inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt)

Use Edit->Replace, and replace [AQUIFER] with (AQUIFER). (Use 'Replace All').

To restore the tags later, do the same in reverse. (Replacing (AQUIFER) with [AQUIFER]).

== Benefits of aquifers ==
While annoying, aquifers can be useful for building a self-sufficient fortress, and for water-related [[megaprojects]]. Since an aquifer can absorb an infinite amount of water, it can function as a drain for anything above it. For instance, digging a pit in a lower Z level of an aquifer, then connecting it to a breached aquifer a level above through a channel dug a level above ''that'' will create a permanently flowing, compact, secure water/power source completely contained within the fortress.

Aquifers outside [[ocean]] biomes also contain fresh water. Since aquifers are almost always located close to the surface, freshwater aquifers can easily be turned into a source of infinite, secure, non-freezing drinking water for your dwarves, eliminating the need for a [[cistern]]. While both of these roles can also be filled by [[Caverns|cavern]] features, an aquifer allows you to get the same advantages without exposing yourself to potentially dangerous cavern creatures.

== External links ==

* [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.15 QuantumMenace's two-slit method] for breaching aquifers of any depth - Illustrated guide

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.31:Aquifer

2011-12-29T10:12:03Z

Nand: /* Dealing with aquifers */ Rearranged methods from most to least practical, and deleted "digging at at change in level" entirely since it's impractical, inefficient and hopelessly confusing relative to other methods.

{{quality|Masterwork|15:52, 30 September 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
An '''aquifer''' is a subterranean layer of [[water|groundwater]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. Attempts to mine through the layer will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with [[water]], effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in [[loam]], and [[sand]], makes it difficult to find great quantities of [[stone]] in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

Aquifers can't be drained - the groundwater is limitless. [[stone detailing|Smoothed]] aquifer stone stops producing water. Aquifers located in [[water#Salt_Water|saltwater]] areas will produce salty water. Aquifers do not only produce water - if the incoming water is pressurized, an aquifer tile may instead absorb it. Just like with water production, this ability will not be disabled no matter how much water it absorbs.

== Where they are found ==

Aquifers are less likely to be found near and in mountains.{{verify}}

Layers which CAN contain aquifers:
*[[sandy clay loam]]
*[[silty clay loam]]
*[[loam]]
*[[sandy loam]]
*[[silt loam]]
*[[loamy sand]]
*[[silt]]
*[[sand (tan)|sand]]
*[[yellow sand]]
*[[white sand]]
*[[black sand]]
*[[red sand]]
*[[peat]]
*[[pelagic clay]]
*[[calcareous ooze]]
*[[siliceous ooze]]
*[[sandstone]]
*[[conglomerate]]
*[[puddingstone]]
Layers which CAN'T contain aquifers, despite their names suggesting otherwise:
*[[clay]]
*[[silty clay]]
*[[sandy clay]]
*[[clay loam]]
*[[siltstone]]
*[[mudstone]]

== What they do ==

Aquifers are tiles which produce water in their ''neighboring'' tiles -- north, south, east, west, and below. They do not produce water in diagonally adjacent tiles, or in the tile above them.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the downward direction, and you hit an aquifer, the aquifer tile will be revealed as damp soil or stone, and the digging job will be un-designated for that tile.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the ''upward'' direction, and you hit an aquifer from below, the aquifer tile will immediately start producing water in the stairwell, thus leading to a lot of [[Fun]].

== Dealing with aquifers ==

===Probing an aquifer===

You can discover what layer lies below an aquifer layer by digging up/down stairs into the aquifer. This will reveal the tile below the aquifer layer, and if this is non aquifer (for example, clay, ore or bedrock) then you know the aquifer is only 1z deep at that location. This method can only be used to determine whether the aquifer is 1 layer deep, or multiple layers deep, but this is enough to help plan how to penetrate it. Using a pump based method is highly recommended for multiple layer aquifers.

===Going around===

If your embark site is covered by multiple biomes, there is a chance the aquifer is not present in every biome. In some maps this may be indicated by an outcropping of stone in a landscape otherwise composed of soil; in other maps the change in biome might be visible as a change in soil type or vegetation type or density. You might be able to dig down through a biome that doesn't have an aquifer, to a Z-level below the aquifer, and then (if you wish) tunnel beneath the aquifer to the previously inaccessible region.

Even if all the biomes of your site contain aquifers, they might not all be at the same Z-level. So you still might be able to dig down in one biome, reaching a Z-level beneath the aquifer in another biome.

===The ore method===

On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a [[sedimentary layer]] such as sandstone, it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of ore such as magnetite. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a utility like reveal.exe. The trial and error method can be accomplished somewhat more easily by digging up/down stairs to reveal the layer underneath them without actually digging into the underlying layer. This method is more complicated with aquifers located in layers of [[conglomerate]], as large clusters of [[puddingstone]] will support the aquifer and thus cannot be used to provide a path through it.

===The cave-in method===
If there are enough layers above the aquifer, then letting non aquifer rock fall into the aquifer layer gives an area of diggable rock. This requires at least 2 natural dry layers. If multiple aquifer layers are to be breached, things get more complicated. First [[ channel]] out the area of aquifer that will be replaced. Then dig out all connecting floors and walls to the block that will fall (build a support to hold it until you are ready for collision). A [[ burrow]] may be useful to assign unnecessary dwarves to a safe area. When everyone is clear, de-construct the support with a lever. (If you forgot to bring stone, then you may instead build a constructed floor to support it, designate it to be destroyed, and have a [[hospital]] standing ready in case the unlucky one survives.)

After the collapse, do not dig out the outer edge of the fallen rock.

This does not work with [[ wood]] walls since they deconstruct on cave-in.

If you build many rings inside one another in your top drop layer, you can breach multi-level aquifers with as little as 2 natural layers of dry soil above it. Drop the rings from the outside to the inside using constructed arms to hold the center rings in place. Once a ring drops into the water below it, pump out the water in the center and dig down another layer. When that is complete, drop the next ring and continue the process until you are through. Since you start dropping rings from the outside it is necessary to know how many levels deep the aquifer is before you begin. 
Tutorial for more than one Aquifier can be found here: [[User:Rhenaya/HowtoDualAquifer]]

Some might regard this method as cheating, so use it at your own risk.

'''Note:''' There is a bug that may prevent this method from working, collapsed layers may turn into the aquifer layer type that was dug out at that level. So, for example: We have three layers, layer 1 has the caving in section, and is not an aquifer. Layer 2 is a dug out layer that is also not a aquifer. And Layer 3 which is dug out and is an aquifer. Now, the bug, say layer 1's cave-in section lands on layer 3's dug out area, sometimes layer 1's caved in section may change into layer 3's soil type. Making it an aquifer too. Thus making the cave-in method impossible for that area.

====Cave-In Example====

[[File:Aquifer-Plug.png|frame|none|Note: Side View]]

*Dig stairs down to the aquifer. Dig over the aquifer layer but under your "plug". You'll need a 5x5 landmass. (Slide 2)
*Channel out the area the plug will fall into. (Slide 3)
*Leave a single floor tile on top of the plug and dig out the outer layer of your plug. The plug should be a 3x3 landmass now. The single floor tile must keep the plug from falling. (Slide 3)
*Channel out the floor tile holding up the plug. (Slides 4 & 5)
*Construct floor tiles to reach the plug and dig through the middle to get under the aquifer. (Slide 6)

===The pump method===

The pumping method uses multiple [[screw pump|pumps]] to keep an area dry long enough to smooth or [[wall]] off the edges, stopping the flow of water. It requires no special environment or resources, other than wood and dwarves (and patience). Most commonly, a moderately sized section of the aquifer layer is channeled out and several screw pumps are built facing it. Directly behind each of the screw pumps a few tiles are channeled out to receive and dispose of the pumped water. When the pumps are activated, they should pump water faster than the aquifer can produce it, allowing masons to smooth or build walls around your future staircase. You ''will'' get job cancellations during this process, as stray 2/7's of water interrupt the building process. Just unsuspend the construction when this happens, as long a dwarf manages to touch the wall before canceling, it will move incrementally toward completion and eventually finish. Depending on the availability of screw pumps and dwarves, you may need to wall off one corner or side at a time, then move the pumps and repeat. When drilling through more than one aquifer layer, be sure to leave yourself enough room to build additional layers of pumps and water disposal channels on lower levels.

Things to consider:
* Flowing water will cause parents to drop their infants, leading to job cancellations and occasionally [[fun]].
* Mechanical [[power]] may come in handy, but dwarf power works just fine and is much more portable.
* Channels can sometimes be used in place of walls, causing water produced by by the aquifer on one level to immediately fall and be consumed by the aquifer on the level below.
* This method may take a while.
* Aquifers do not create water in diagonal tiles, but do create water in hollow tiles directly below them. Therefore, you will want to dig two z-levels below the lowest aquifer layer before continuing with your fortress.

Two [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.0 pump-based implementations] have been tested and found to meet dwarven standards of excellence. 

===The freezing method===

If you are playing in a freezing or very cold landscape, where it snows in winter and instantly freezes water on the map, you can dig out a 3x3 hole in the ground using [[channel]]s, and make it deeper and deeper until you reach the aquifer level. Once you reach the damp rock, tunnel into it with an up/down staircase - the incoming water will freeze after a few moments. The central square of the 3x3 hole should be tunnelable ice, so you can get to the rock beneath. If there are two aquifer levels, for example, you can just make a larger initial hole, and make a smaller one for the level after.

If your fortress is in a zone that gets warm, build walls around the inside of the hole to stop the water coming in once the ice melts.

Note: There is a bug that may prevent this from working, sometimes ice walls don't produce an ice floor tile above them, instead leaving it as "open space" which prevents the player from digging downwards.
Simplest method is to construct a wooden (or stone, if you have any) floor and then remove it. After the floor is removed, a natural ice floor will remain.
An alternative means that will work is to set the tile 1 z-level '''ABOVE''' your missing ice floor tile as a [[pond]], and '''FILL IT'''. The first [[bucket]] of water that goes on it will create that missing ice floor tile the instant the water is dumped on it, and you will receive a cancellation message that the pond has gone away. Dezone the pond [[activity zone]], and get back to work breaching that ice. Keep in mind that you will need an '''unfrozen water source''' to use to fill your bucket. Luckily you have an aquifer, so you can just dig into it somewhere underground.

===The magma/obsidian method===

If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. By channeling into the aquifer layer and then filling these channels with magma, it is possible to create a wall of obsidian between your working area and the [[water]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. However, changes to world generation with the last version have made this method more difficult than it once was, as it is now harder to find magma vents that extend above the aquifer level.

===Digging with help from below===

Having made an initial hole in the aquifer, you may wish to punch another larger hole through, say for example to grow wild strawberries in the caverns or to install a skylight in hell. Or you may simply want an additional (natural stone!) staircase. Once you have access from below this is much easier than digging from above.

Locate the caverns and dig a drainage shaft of up/down stairs or downward stairs up from the caverns to the aquifer (downward stairs function as grates and are far safer than channeling). Once the drainage shaft is complete punch the shaft up through the aquifer (using up/down stairs) until you hit dry dirt. Now mine out the walls around the shaft and build constructed walls to seal the aquifer. It's even easier, if instead of mining the walls, downward stairs are dug out instead, a wall can be built directly on top of stairs and they allow the water to fall directly through, thus construction can always be started and is never suspended. Always build the walls from the highest layer down, so the dwarves aren't having water dumped on them from above.

This method can be used to create arbitrarily large (and shaped) holes. Large holes, which would be impractical to dig from above, are very easy using this technique. It's also extremely useful for digging straight shafts through "layercake" aquifers where aquifer tiles and non-aquifer tiles are intermixed.

===The modding method===

By editing the the raws and removing the [AQUIFER] tag from all of the appropriate entries in inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt it is possible to remove all aquifers from the world. This can be done before creating a new world or after, if you find a particularly neat location ruined only by the presence of an aquifer. In order to modify an existing world, you must delete the [AQUIFER] tag from the raws in the savegame's folder.

=====Command-line (Linux)=====

cd df_linux/raw/objects/
sed -i 's/\[AQUIFER\]/(AQUIFER)/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

and generate world. To edit an already generated world, run the <code>sed</code> command in the <tt>df_linux/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects</tt> folder instead. If you want to restore the tags later, you can do it with the command:

sed -i 's/(AQUIFER)/[AQUIFER]/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

=====Text editor (All operating systems)=====

Find the files in Dwarf Fortress/raw/objects (new world) or Dwarf Fortress/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects (already saved world).

Open the three files with a text editor (e.g. Notepad). (inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt)

Use Edit->Replace, and replace [AQUIFER] with (AQUIFER). (Use 'Replace All').

To restore the tags later, do the same in reverse. (Replacing (AQUIFER) with [AQUIFER]).

== Benefits of aquifers ==
While annoying, aquifers can be useful for building a self-sufficient fortress, and for water-related [[megaprojects]]. Since an aquifer can absorb an infinite amount of water, it can function as a drain for anything above it. For instance, digging a pit in a lower Z level of an aquifer, then connecting it to a breached aquifer a level above through a channel dug a level above ''that'' will create a permanently flowing, compact, secure water/power source completely contained within the fortress.

Aquifers outside [[ocean]] biomes also contain fresh water. Since aquifers are almost always located close to the surface, freshwater aquifers can easily be turned into a source of infinite, secure, non-freezing drinking water for your dwarves, eliminating the need for a [[cistern]]. While both of these roles can also be filled by [[Caverns|cavern]] features, an aquifer allows you to get the same advantages without exposing yourself to potentially dangerous cavern creatures.

== External links ==

* [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.15 QuantumMenace's two-slit method] for breaching aquifers of any depth - Illustrated guide

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.31:Aquifer

2011-12-29T09:22:14Z

Nand: Added section on probing an aquifer.

{{quality|Masterwork|15:52, 30 September 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
An '''aquifer''' is a subterranean layer of [[water|groundwater]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. Attempts to mine through the layer will result in the mined-out squares immediately filling with [[water]], effectively halting excavation at or below their level. This, in conjunction with the fact that they are often located in areas rich in [[loam]], and [[sand]], makes it difficult to find great quantities of [[stone]] in areas with aquifers, making for more challenging gameplay.

Aquifers can't be drained - the groundwater is limitless. [[stone detailing|Smoothed]] aquifer stone stops producing water. Aquifers located in [[water#Salt_Water|saltwater]] areas will produce salty water. Aquifers do not only produce water - if the incoming water is pressurized, an aquifer tile may instead absorb it. Just like with water production, this ability will not be disabled no matter how much water it absorbs.

== Where they are found ==

Aquifers are less likely to be found near and in mountains.{{verify}}

Layers which CAN contain aquifers:
*[[sandy clay loam]]
*[[silty clay loam]]
*[[loam]]
*[[sandy loam]]
*[[silt loam]]
*[[loamy sand]]
*[[silt]]
*[[sand (tan)|sand]]
*[[yellow sand]]
*[[white sand]]
*[[black sand]]
*[[red sand]]
*[[peat]]
*[[pelagic clay]]
*[[calcareous ooze]]
*[[siliceous ooze]]
*[[sandstone]]
*[[conglomerate]]
*[[puddingstone]]
Layers which CAN'T contain aquifers, despite their names suggesting otherwise:
*[[clay]]
*[[silty clay]]
*[[sandy clay]]
*[[clay loam]]
*[[siltstone]]
*[[mudstone]]

== What they do ==

Aquifers are tiles which produce water in their ''neighboring'' tiles -- north, south, east, west, and below. They do not produce water in diagonally adjacent tiles, or in the tile above them.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the downward direction, and you hit an aquifer, the aquifer tile will be revealed as damp soil or stone, and the digging job will be un-designated for that tile.

If you are digging an up/down staircase in the ''upward'' direction, and you hit an aquifer from below, the aquifer tile will immediately start producing water in the stairwell, thus leading to a lot of [[Fun]].

== Dealing with aquifers ==

===Probing an aquifer===

You can discover what layer lies below an aquifer layer by digging up/down stairs into the aquifer. This will reveal the tile below the aquifer layer, and if this is non aquifer (for example, clay, ore or bedrock) then you know the aquifer is only 1z deep at that location. This method can only be used to determine whether the aquifer is 1 layer deep, or multiple layers deep, but this is enough to help plan how to penetrate it. Using a pump based method is highly recommended for multiple layer aquifers.

===Digging at a change in level===

Though an aquifer seems a daunting obstacle, it ''is'' possible to dig through it, given an ample supply of building material (rock or wood) and any unevenness in the depth of the aquifer. The basic facts:

* An aquifer layer will ''absorb'' an unlimited amount of water draining in from above.

* With an up/down stairway or channel designation, a dwarf can break through the floor of the cell ''beneath'' him. That means a dwarf can stand on top of an aquifer layer, dig an up/down stairway, and make it drain into the layer beneath it, if that layer is also an aquifer or has an open path to an aquifer layer nearby.

* A stairway may be swamped to dangerous levels with water draining in from the squares around it, but many stairways in a clump mean that the drainage to the next layer wins out.

* Constructing a wall, up/down stairway, or channel in an aquifer layer prevents any water from originating in that square. A wall prevents water from draining down into the next layer from any source, while the stairway or channel lets it come in from other squares and drain.

These points support the following method:

# Dig around at the level just above where you encountered the aquifer, placing up/down or down stairways according to your preferred city grid plan. Training up a few miners in this way will help later. Spot some points where the next level (as seen from down stairways) varies in wetness from one spot to another.
# For the following, pause the game after every square dug out and make sure the miners dig both layers at the same rate and redesignate when they cancel your plans automatically. Dig a 5x5 hollow square of up/down stairways at the change in level, going down as far as you can. The lower aquifer should accept water from the upper aquifer, allowing you to drain the upper aquifer (at least partway). Then gradually take on the area in the middle, building walls and/or staircases to fill in and stop the flow as you expand. Eventually you should get command over the source of flow, and can dig a hole in the center of the bottom-most layer surrounded by a 3x3 ring of impermeable rock.

* ''Caveat: sometimes only the top of the aquifer changes depth, but the bottom stays at the same level. In this case you will get nowhere. Sometimes the aquifer is two or more layers thick and it doesn't offset enough to let you all the way through - in this case, sometimes you can use the cave-in method to get through one layer, then use this method to get through the next. And sometimes you'll just find a hole right through when you investigate the change in level, because you're at a biome boundary and it's not aligned perfectly.

===The ore method===
On maps where the aquifer is not held in a layer of soil, but instead is held in a [[sedimentary layer]] such as sandstone, it may be possible to tunnel down through deposits of ore such as magnetite. For this to work you have to find a spot where there is coincidentally an ore deposit on each Z-level you need to dig through. This is only possible through tiresome trial and error, or through the use of a utility like reveal.exe. The trial and error method can be accomplished somewhat more easily by digging up/down stairs to reveal the layer underneath them without actually digging into the underlying layer. This method is more complicated with aquifers located in layers of [[conglomerate]], as large clusters of [[puddingstone]] will support the aquifer and thus cannot be used to provide a path through it.

===The magma/obsidian method===
If you have access to a supply of magma, you can create your own obsidian caissons. By channeling into the aquifer layer and then filling these channels with magma, it is possible to create a wall of obsidian between your working area and the [[water]]-bearing rock or [[soil]]. However, changes to world generation with the last version have made this method more difficult than it once was, as it is now harder to find magma vents that extend above the aquifer level.

===The cave-in method===
If there are enough layers above the aquifer, then letting non aquifer rock fall into the aquifer layer gives an area of diggable rock. This requires at least 2 natural dry layers. If multiple aquifer layers are to be breached, things get more complicated. First [[ channel]] out the area of aquifer that will be replaced. Then dig out all connecting floors and walls to the block that will fall (build a support to hold it until you are ready for collision). A [[ burrow]] may be useful to assign unnecessary dwarves to a safe area. When everyone is clear, de-construct the support with a lever. (If you forgot to bring stone, then you may instead build a constructed floor to support it, designate it to be destroyed, and have a [[hospital]] standing ready in case the unlucky one survives.)

After the collapse, do not dig out the outer edge of the fallen rock.

This does not work with [[ wood]] walls since they deconstruct on cave-in.

If you build many rings inside one another in your top drop layer, you can breach multi-level aquifers with as little as 2 natural layers of dry soil above it. Drop the rings from the outside to the inside using constructed arms to hold the center rings in place. Once a ring drops into the water below it, pump out the water in the center and dig down another layer. When that is complete, drop the next ring and continue the process until you are through. Since you start dropping rings from the outside it is necessary to know how many levels deep the aquifer is before you begin. 
Tutorial for more than one Aquifier can be found here: [[User:Rhenaya/HowtoDualAquifer]]

Some might regard this method as cheating, so use it at your own risk.

'''Note:''' There is a bug that may prevent this method from working, collapsed layers may turn into the aquifer layer type that was dug out at that level. So, for example: We have three layers, layer 1 has the caving in section, and is not an aquifer. Layer 2 is a dug out layer that is also not a aquifer. And Layer 3 which is dug out and is an aquifer. Now, the bug, say layer 1's cave-in section lands on layer 3's dug out area, sometimes layer 1's caved in section may change into layer 3's soil type. Making it an aquifer too. Thus making the cave-in method impossible for that area.

====Cave-In Example====

[[File:Aquifer-Plug.png|frame|none|Note: Side View]]

*Dig stairs down to the aquifer. Dig over the aquifer layer but under your "plug". You'll need a 5x5 landmass. (Slide 2)
*Channel out the area the plug will fall into. (Slide 3)
*Leave a single floor tile on top of the plug and dig out the outer layer of your plug. The plug should be a 3x3 landmass now. The single floor tile must keep the plug from falling. (Slide 3)
*Channel out the floor tile holding up the plug. (Slides 4 & 5)
*Construct floor tiles to reach the plug and dig through the middle to get under the aquifer. (Slide 6)

===The freezing method===

If you are playing in a freezing or very cold landscape, where it snows in winter and instantly freezes water on the map, you can dig out a 3x3 hole in the ground using [[channel]]s, and make it deeper and deeper until you reach the aquifer level. Once you reach the damp rock, tunnel into it with an up/down staircase - the incoming water will freeze after a few moments. The central square of the 3x3 hole should be tunnelable ice, so you can get to the rock beneath. If there are two aquifer levels, for example, you can just make a larger initial hole, and make a smaller one for the level after.

If your fortress is in a zone that gets warm, build walls around the inside of the hole to stop the water coming in once the ice melts.

Note: There is a bug that may prevent this from working, sometimes ice walls don't produce an ice floor tile above them, instead leaving it as "open space" which prevents the player from digging downwards.
Simplest method is to construct a wooden (or stone, if you have any) floor and then remove it. After the floor is removed, a natural ice floor will remain.
An alternative means that will work is to set the tile 1 z-level '''ABOVE''' your missing ice floor tile as a [[pond]], and '''FILL IT'''. The first [[bucket]] of water that goes on it will create that missing ice floor tile the instant the water is dumped on it, and you will receive a cancellation message that the pond has gone away. Dezone the pond [[activity zone]], and get back to work breaching that ice. Keep in mind that you will need an '''unfrozen water source''' to use to fill your bucket. Luckily you have an aquifer, so you can just dig into it somewhere underground.

===The pump method===

The pumping method uses multiple [[screw pump|pumps]] to keep an area dry long enough to smooth or [[wall]] off the edges, stopping the flow of water. It requires no special environment or resources, other than wood and dwarves (and patience). Most commonly, a moderately sized section of the aquifer layer is channeled out and several screw pumps are built facing it. Directly behind each of the screw pumps a few tiles are channeled out to receive and dispose of the pumped water. When the pumps are activated, they should pump water faster than the aquifer can produce it, allowing masons to smooth or build walls around your future staircase. You ''will'' get job cancellations during this process, as stray 2/7's of water interrupt the building process. Just unsuspend the construction when this happens, as long a dwarf manages to touch the wall before canceling, it will move incrementally toward completion and eventually finish. Depending on the availability of screw pumps and dwarves, you may need to wall off one corner or side at a time, then move the pumps and repeat. When drilling through more than one aquifer layer, be sure to leave yourself enough room to build additional layers of pumps and water disposal channels on lower levels.

Things to consider:
* Flowing water will cause parents to drop their infants, leading to job cancellations and occasionally [[fun]].
* Mechanical [[power]] may come in handy, but dwarf power works just fine and is much more portable.
* Channels can sometimes be used in place of walls, causing water produced by by the aquifer on one level to immediately fall and be consumed by the aquifer on the level below.
* This method may take a while.
* Aquifers do not create water in diagonal tiles, but do create water in hollow tiles directly below them. Therefore, you will want to dig two z-levels below the lowest aquifer layer before continuing with your fortress.

Two [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.0 pump-based implementations] have been tested and found to meet dwarven standards of excellence. 

===The modding method===

By editing the the raws and removing the [AQUIFER] tag from all of the appropriate entries in inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt it is possible to remove all aquifers from the world. This can be done before creating a new world or after, if you find a particularly neat location ruined only by the presence of an aquifer. In order to modify an existing world, you must delete the [AQUIFER] tag from the raws in the savegame's folder.

=====Command-line (Linux)=====

cd df_linux/raw/objects/
sed -i 's/\[AQUIFER\]/(AQUIFER)/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

and generate world. To edit an already generated world, run the <code>sed</code> command in the <tt>df_linux/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects</tt> folder instead. If you want to restore the tags later, you can do it with the command:

sed -i 's/(AQUIFER)/[AQUIFER]/g' inorganic_stone_*.txt

=====Text editor (All operating systems)=====

Find the files in Dwarf Fortress/raw/objects (new world) or Dwarf Fortress/data/save/''regionNN''/raw/objects (already saved world).

Open the three files with a text editor (e.g. Notepad). (inorganic_stone_layer.txt, inorganic_stone_mineral.txt, and inorganic_stone_soil.txt)

Use Edit->Replace, and replace [AQUIFER] with (AQUIFER). (Use 'Replace All').

To restore the tags later, do the same in reverse. (Replacing (AQUIFER) with [AQUIFER]).

===Digging with help from below===

Having made an initial hole in the aquifer, you may wish to punch another larger hole through, say for example to grow wild strawberries in the caverns or to install a skylight in hell. Or you may simply want an additional (natural stone!) staircase. Once you have access from below this is much easier than digging from above.

Locate the caverns and dig a drainage shaft of up/down stairs or downward stairs up from the caverns to the aquifer (downward stairs function as grates and are far safer than channeling). Once the drainage shaft is complete punch the shaft up through the aquifer (using up/down stairs) until you hit dry dirt. Now mine out the walls around the shaft and build constructed walls to seal the aquifer. It's even easier, if instead of mining the walls, downward stairs are dug out instead, a wall can be built directly on top of stairs and they allow the water to fall directly through, thus construction can always be started and is never suspended. Always build the walls from the highest layer down, so the dwarves aren't having water dumped on them from above.

This method can be used to create arbitrarily large (and shaped) holes. Large holes, which would be impractical to dig from above, are very easy using this technique. It's also extremely useful for digging straight shafts through "layercake" aquifers where aquifer tiles and non-aquifer tiles are intermixed.

===Going around===

If your embark site is covered by multiple biomes, there is a chance the aquifer is not present in every biome. In some maps this may be indicated by an outcropping of stone in a landscape otherwise composed of soil; in other maps the change in biome might be visible as a change in soil type or vegetation type or density. You might be able to dig down through a biome that doesn't have an aquifer, to a Z-level below the aquifer, and then (if you wish) tunnel beneath the aquifer to the previously inaccessible region.

Even if all the biomes of your site contain aquifers, they might not all be at the same Z-level. So you still might be able to dig down in one biome, reaching a Z-level beneath the aquifer in another biome.

== Benefits of aquifers ==
While annoying, aquifers can be useful for building a self-sufficient fortress, and for water-related [[megaprojects]]. Since an aquifer can absorb an infinite amount of water, it can function as a drain for anything above it. For instance, digging a pit in a lower Z level of an aquifer, then connecting it to a breached aquifer a level above through a channel dug a level above ''that'' will create a permanently flowing, compact, secure water/power source completely contained within the fortress.

Aquifers outside [[ocean]] biomes also contain fresh water. Since aquifers are almost always located close to the surface, freshwater aquifers can easily be turned into a source of infinite, secure, non-freezing drinking water for your dwarves, eliminating the need for a [[cistern]]. While both of these roles can also be filled by [[Caverns|cavern]] features, an aquifer allows you to get the same advantages without exposing yourself to potentially dangerous cavern creatures.

== External links ==

* [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=79224.15 QuantumMenace's two-slit method] for breaching aquifers of any depth - Illustrated guide

{{World}}

[[Category:World]]

v0.31:Water

2011-12-29T08:43:07Z

Nand: /* Salt Water */ Removed extraneous words and did some rephrasing.

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional|19:08, 6 July 2010 (UTC)}}

'''Water''' is a fluid found all over the world. It [[flow|flows]] from mountain springs, forming the world's [[ocean]]s, [[lake]]s, [[river]]s, and [[brook]]s. Water falls as [[rain]] and [[snow]], and freezes into [[ice]]. Water is home to a variety of [[aquatic creatures]]. Many creatures can [[Swimmer|swim]] in deep water. Air-breathing creatures that are submerged in water can [[Swimmer#Drowning|drown]] in it. Water comes in two varieties: '''freshwater''', which makes up almost all inland water, and '''saltwater''', which fills the seas. In this version, some brooks and murky pools can be saltwater even if the fortress site is partially mountainous. It is not known if this is a bug. To tell the difference, attempt to set up a drinking zone including some of the water in question. If there are zero tiles of water source available, the water is saltwater.

Mud is a [[contaminant]] which is created any time water covers an area. Any tiles that contain mud may be used for [[Agriculture|farming]].

Water is displayed with the symbols {{Tile|≈|1:7:1}} and {{Tile|~|1:7:1}}, sometimes colored different blues, and white, showing ripples. Water can also take on other colors indicating [[contaminant|contaminants]] such as '''blood''', '''ichor''', or '''goo'''. (The game can be [[Technical tricks#The look of the game|configured]] to show the depth instead).

Dark-colored water symbols indicate the water is one [[Z-level]] below the camera level. Water has 7 depth levels per tile, with 1 being a shallow puddle, and 7 filling the tile completely. [[Dwarf|Dwarves]] can safely walk through water up to a depth of 4. Dwarves finding themselves in water at a depth of 5 or greater are at risk of drowning unless they are skilled at [[swimming]].

Interestingly, water can slow falls with deep enough water and short enough falls. If the water is deep enough relative to the height of the fall, dwarves can be less injured or even completely uninjured (from a 4 level drop to a 3 level deep pool, for example)

==Evaporation==
Evaporation occurs when water or [[magma]] is at a depth of 1/7. Simply having 2/7 standing water is enough to prevent evaporation. Water or magma at 1/7 depth will even evaporate if it is on top of 7/7 depth water as shown in the example bellow.
{| style="border-spacing: 0"
|-
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{CCC}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{CCC}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|}
[[Murky pool|Murky pools]] are an exception. In '''hot''' or '''scorching''' environments a murky pool can evaporate even when it is completely full. Murky pools also generate water to simulate seasonal accumulation from rainfall. This sometimes makes it possible for a murky pool to replenish itself even when it has been completely drained.

==Freezing/Thawing==
Many environments get cold enough for water to freeze in winter. When this happens, any water that is exposed above ground will [[ice|freeze into ice]]. However, water a single tile away that is in an underground tunnel will not freeze. When ice walls thaw, they always leave a 7/7 water tile regardless of how much water may have been present when the ice formed.

When outdoor water freezes or thaws it does so instantly. Any dwarf [[swimming]] in water when it freezes will die, and any dwarf standing on a frozen pond will fall into it when it thaws, most probably leading to [[drown]]ing.

Mining ice can produce chunks of ice. Taking these chunks into a stone layer will cause it eventually melt, turning it into a "water" item (much like those hauled in [[bucket]]s) which can't be used for anything. {{Bug|360}}

[[Glacier#Cave-in_some ice_|Caving in an ice wall]] into a stone layer will cause it to instantly melt into water (provided it does not become exposed to the outdoors), which can be used to get water near the surface in a [[glacier]] biome without having to use a [[pump]] stack to pump water up from a [[cavern]] pool.

If you constructed a [[well]] or a [[Grate|floor grate]] right over top of water and it freezes, the item will be deconstructed to its original parts, but some may fall into the water.

==Flow==
Water and [[magma]] are both [[flow|fluids]] which are constantly trying to '''[[flow]]''' into adjacent tiles until they have filled all available space or until they run out of fluid. Fluids technically move in 9 directions: down, and to the sides. Fluids cannot move diagonally up or down. Fluids at a depth of 1/7 no longer attempt to move unless they can move down. Fluids under [[pressure]] can appear to travel upward until the pressure equalizes, though in reality they are moving downward and/or sideways relative to their source.

If the flow is strong enough, it can move objects such as dwarves, pets, stones, weapons or corpses.

Fluids in Dwarf Fortress act like a fairly thick, viscous material. This makes it possible to do highly implausible things like [[pump]] out a dry hole in the middle of a [[river]] or [[ocean]].

==Sourced Water==
Water that comes from [[river]]s, [[brook]]s, [[ocean]]s, [[aquifer]]s or springs is considered to be '''sourced water'''. Any sourced water is an endless supply of water that can never run dry, although it can freeze for part of the year in colder biomes.

When using sourced water you should strongly consider installing [[floodgate]]s and be aware of how [[pressure]] works or you could easily end up [[flood]]ing your fortress and having a lot more [[fun]] than anticipated.

==Salt Water==
Dwarves can not use salt water directly; while healthy dwarves will usually prefer to drink [[booze]], wounded dwarves can only be given water to drink.

To check to see if water is salty, use the {{k|i}} menu to see if the game shows the pond/pool as a water source. If the "water source (x)" is (0), then the source is salty. If not, then your dwarves will drink it.

A [[screw pump]] can be used to desalinate water, but if the fresh water produced ever contacts salty water, the "saltiness" will conduct through the entire body of water making the reservoir permanently salty. Note that once a tile is marked as salty, ''it cannot be reverted without external tools''.

There is a myth that desalinated water turns salty if it ever touches natural stone. This myth has been [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=95811 debunked], any cistern will work, except those dug into a beach, which may spontaneously turn salty, although constructed cisterns on the beach are fine.

The old 40d method of using a [[well]] to desalinate water still works in DF2010. Dwarves will drink water from a well over salt water, give it to sick dwarves and use it to clean wounds. You cannot designate the well as a water source, but the dwarves will still use it.

== Stagnant Water ==

Water taken from a murky pool or wetlands biome will be stagnant, just as water taken from near the ocean will be salty, and just like saltiness, stagnation will spread through any connected bodies of water. So if a river is joined to a murky pool, the river will immediately and permanently become stagnant. Dwarves get an unhappy [[thought]] if they have to drink stagnant water, and a [[doctor]] cleaning a [[wound]] with stagnant water will likely cause an [[Health care#Infection|infection]].

[[Pump]]ing stagnant water will make it clean, provided the reservoir has never held stagnant water. Moving water only via flow or with gravity won't clean it; pumping is required.

Note that the game will only ''describe'' stagnant water as stagnant if it's in a [[bucket]] or [[flask]]/[[waterskin]]; looking at standing or flowing water with {{K|k}} won't give any indication.

== Water laced with mud ==
If a water source is only one z-level deep and its floor is covered by "a pile of mud" (like most [[cavern|underground pools]]), then any water taken from it will be "water laced with mud". Drinking water laced with mud will give your dwarves an unhappy thought. It might also cause [[Health care#Infection|infection]] if used to clean a [[wound]].

Unlike stagnant water, merely moving the water with flow or gravity will take care of the problem, since it only occurs if the water source tile contains "a pile of mud", and water coming into contact with a clean floor only creates "a dusting of mud".

==Contaminants==
Contaminants that get into water currently can do very strange things. A pool of blood that gets covered by water will be pushed out of the water as the water flows creating more pools of blood at the edge of the water. Overflowing a large reservoir that contains contaminants of blood will generate a large amount of blood very quickly. This behavior is thought to be a bug.

==Getting Rid of Unwanted Water==
Water will flow off the edge of the map, endlessly, which is one way to get rid of large amounts of water (evaporation works better with small amounts). Underground, there are at least two ways to accomplish this. One is to channel your excess water into a dry cavern that is open to the map edge, as the water will flow out (depending on slopes and such). The other, probably easier method, is to mine to the map edge (since you cannot mine the map edge itself, just up to it), then smooth the edge and then carve [[fortification]]s into it. Water will flow through the fortifications and off the edge of the map. Make sure your exit flow is equal to or, for safety, greater than your input. One approach that may not work well is to dump your excess water into an underground lake that is open to the map edge, as such lakes have some sort of equilibrium built into them, and your excess water can cause the lake to flood.

Draining lakes and oceans from underneath can be a finicky task, but there's a bit of dwarven magic for it: build a retractable bridge on the level beneath the sea bottom, with ramps directly underneath it. Link this to a lever to control the flow as you desire. Now evacuate the dwarves and wall off the area above the bridge. Then, with the bridge in place, designate ramps around the bridge leading up - breaking through to the sea bottom. Now how can the dwarves dig these squares out? Yep, from beneath the bridge. In this way they get the water flow started without ever getting their little feet wet. This is a great way to set up channels one square in from the map edge near a water source, so that you can properly wall off the baddies from getting into the fort.

{{gamedata|{{raw|DF2010:hardcoded_materials.txt|MATERIAL|WATER}}}}

{{Category|Physics}}

v0.31:Screw pump

2011-12-29T06:32:05Z

Nand: Fixed myths about desalination and linked to relevant sections in water article

{{quality|Masterwork|21:05, 26 April 2011 (UTC)}}
{{Machine_component|name=Screw pump|key=s|job=[[Pump operator]]
|construction=
* [[Block]]
* [[Trap component#Enormous corkscrew|Enormous corkscrew]]
* [[Pipe section]]
|construction_job=
* [[Architecture]]
* 1 of
** [[Carpentry]]
** [[Masonry]]
** [[Metalsmithing]]
|power=Needs 10 power.
}}
{{av}}

A '''screw pump''' is a small [[building]] that can lift liquids ([[water]] or [[magma]]) from one level below onto the same [[Z-level]] as the pump. It is two tiles by one tile in size, and it can be either manually operated by a [[dwarf]] with the [[pump operator]] job or by being [[power]]ed by [[water wheel]]s and/or [[windmill]]s.

The direction you want the fluid to travel must be chosen at the time of construction. Pumping only occurs in a straight line, and involves a total of 4 tiles in a row - the liquid source, two for the pump, and the output. The "rise" in levels occurs on the first tile, the intake side, from one level below up to the level of the pump*. Pumped fluids can and will flow immediately after being pumped, as normal for that fluid. Pumped fluids will have a [[pressure]] equal to the exit [[z-level]] - a pump never "forces" water to a higher [[z-level]] than the output tile.

:''(* A DF pump can best be imagined as a simple [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archimedes%27_screw archimedes screw].)''

[[Water#Salt Water|Salt water]] pumped through a pump will desalinate and become drinkable, but only if the cistern has never contained salty water. [[Water#Stagnant Water|Stagnant water]] pumped through a pump will become clean, letting dwarves drink it without getting an unhappy [[thought]] and letting [[doctor]]s clean [[wound]]s without causing an [[Health care#Infection|infection]]. As with desalination, this only works if the cistern has never contained stagnant water.

''For a basic overview of how the different machine parts work and work together, see [[machinery]].''

== Construction ==

Building a screw pump requires an [[Trap component#Enormous corkscrew|enormous corkscrew]], a [[block]], and a [[pipe section]]. The construction itself is completed in two stages. First a dwarf with the [[architect]] labor must design it. Then a dwarf (the same or a different one) with the appropriate labor must complete the building. This could be [[carpentry]], [[metalsmithing]], or [[masonry]], depending on the material of the block.

To select pump, use keys {{k|b}}-{{k|M}}-{{k|s}}. It's important to choose the proper orientation for your pump, where it will draw water from and where it will deliver the water. This is determined before placement with the {{k|u}}, {{k|m}}, {{k|k}}, or {{k|h}} keys, and the text at the top of the sub-menu will change to confirm your choice. The default (as shown above in the sidebar), "pumps from the north" (top). The ''light'' green X must be next to the liquid source and the ''dark'' green X is where the liquid exits the pump.

[[Image:Small pump.jpg|thumb|right|300px|'''Basic Side View of a Pump'''. This pump "pumps from the west", from left to right. The area to the right may fill to the top of that level, but no more (See [[pressure]]; see [[Screw pump#Pump Stack|Pump stack]]). Note that the entire space required is 4 tiles long by 1 tile wide, not including any retaining walls for the outflow. If pumped manually, the [[pump operator]] stands in the light-colored area, as the dark-colored is impassable to both fluid and movement. ''(Although the "liquid" is shown as blue, this can work for [[magma]] as well, with the [[magma-safe|appropriate precautions]].)'']]

The example shown in the infobox above "pumps from the north" (top) to the south (bottom). If pumped manually, the dwarf stands on the light-colored tile, as the dark-colored is impassable.

The orientation is visible after placement by using {{k|q}}uery over or near that pump or during placement, using UMKH to select the direction of input. Orientation of a pump cannot be changed after being constructed, but, as with any building, it can be deconstructed into its component parts and rebuilt as and where desired.

Having specified the direction of travel, you must ensure that the source side of the pump is placed adjacent to and above (in the [[z-axis]]) a liquid. The screw pump will draw the liquid up from below its level, and distribute it out of the other side of the pump.

== Notes ==

* The source of the pump must be directionally adjacent to "Open Space" that is directly above a source of liquid. The adjacent space cannot be a floor, stairway or wall suspended over water. Screw pumps can pull water through a [[grate]], floor [[bars]], or a [[construction|constructed]] [[fortification]] on the Z-level below.
* The light pump tile is where a pump operator will stand (if the pump is not powered mechanically). Liquids to be pumped must be 1 level below the (empty) area adjacent to this tile.
* Dwarves must be able to access and stand on the light tile of the pump in order to build the pump and then to be able to operate the pump manually.
* The dark pump tile is on the output side. Liquids will appear in the tile adjacent to this.
* The dark pump tile blocks liquids flow and creature movement, and can be built between wall segments to create a solid barrier. The light tile of the pump does not block flow or movement.
* Pumps can also be used in conjunction with a [[water wheel]] or a [[windmill]] to become self-powered.
* Active mechanisms connected to the pump will automatically start the pump; to prevent this either restrict liquid flow using floodgates or hatches, or put in a [[gear assembly]] linked to a [[lever]] to disconnect the [[power]].
* Adjacent pumps ''automatically'' transfer mechanical power to any other adjacent pump(s); no [[axle]] or [[mechanism]] is required. If too many pumps are adjacent, there may be insufficient power to power them.
* Dwarves operating pumps do '''NOT''' generate power. Thus, one cannot use a single [[pump operator]] to power an entire pump stack.
* A hatch above the input tile (on the same level as the pump) that is linked to a trigger (a [[lever]] or [[pressure plate]]) makes an effective on/off switch for that pump.
* In order to build pumps in a "hanging" state, as in the stacked screw pump example (below), one of its tiles must be able to connect to a nearby machine, either already existing or designated to be built. If, when the screw pump's construction is completed, the supporting mechanism has not yet been completed, it will promptly collapse into its component parts.
* Pumps do '''not''' push liquids '''up''' additional Z-levels above them. They only deliver water to their own level. That is, if you direct the output of a screw pump into a 1-square space surrounded by walls, the water will not "overflow" the walls. Consequently, a pump will refuse to move liquid if the level it is pumping to is completely filled. Higher levels can be achieved using a "pump stack" (below). (See [[Pressure]])
* In order to safely pump magma, you must use [[magma-safe]] materials, though magma-unsafe metals have been observed to be safe unless the open tile is going to be submerged in magma. Wooden parts (except for [[nether-cap]]s) will burst into flames the instant the pump is activated, and magma-unsafe stone [[block]]s melt after a short time. Despite the requirement for magma-safe materials, the exterior of the pump does not heat up, and dwarves do not mind operating a magma pump directly.
* Magma, which normally has no pressure, will behave as though pressurized when pumped. For example, when pumped into an U-turn, magma will come out at the other end. Normal (non-pumped) magma would just pool at the lowest level. This may be either very useful (can be used to build pressure towers for magma) or deadly (forge level flooded with magma, because someone tried to pump magma into a volcano).
* Pump's pseudo-pressure doesn't work across diagonals. If there is a diagonal-only passage in your tunnel, liquids will seep slowly through it, instead of bursting through above their normal maximal speed, like they would if there was good passage.
* The liquid in a pump's intake tile must have a depth of at least 2/7 for the pump to be able to remove any amount of liquid from it.
* If a pump's intake tile on the z-level below the pump becomes blocked (as with a cave-in or magma cooling into obsidian) the pump will still run but not pump any fluid.
* If a pump's output tile contains magma and the pump is pumping water or vice versa, the output tile will be turned into [[obsidian]].

====Common mistakes====
* Orienting a pump incorrectly, and/or not having a proper open liquid source.
* Pumping water into an area with a path to other parts of your fortress. (The pump may work perfectly - the fortress quickly [[flood]]s.)
* Expecting water to rise up above the same level of a pump.
* Building a wall attached only to the light tile - this leaves a diagonal leak between the wall and the dark tile unless sealed there. (If that's not a problem, don't worry about it.)
* Having stairs as input tile. Stairs block input tile, thus rendering the pump useless, even though liquids usually ignore stairs. Output tile can be any liquid-passable tile.
* Not channeling below the impassable tile of an individual pump in a pump stack. This is how power is transmitted to the pump below.
* Pumping magma into a lower z-level (same as the source) and then being surprised it is forced back up to the pump's z-level further down the line (where you were planning your magma forges, for example.)

== Example layouts ==
=== Single pump ===

[[Image:jt_screwpump.png|frame|left|A screw pump delivers from the level below to the tile in front. This pump pumps from the right to the left. The "dark tile" would be on the left - that entire tile is impassible to movement and fluids.]] 
=== Pump stack ===
[[File:PumpStack2010.png|thumb|right|300px|'''Illustrated Side View of a Pump Stack.''']]
[[File:PumpStackTopView.png|thumb|right|300px|'''Illustrated Top View of a Pump Stack Layer.''']]
[[File:Pumpstack.gif|thumb|right|'''Animation showing the general construction using an isometric projection.''']]

A Pump stack is a method used to draw water or magma vertically across multiple z-levels requiring a minimum of parts. The basic functionality is possible because the Output (dark) side of the pump can be built over open space with a machine component located directly below, in this case another Screw Pump. Note that for power to properly transfer the intake (light) side of the pump must line up with the output (dark) side of the pump on the floor above it through a space in the floor, as in the illustration.

A pump stack minimizes the amount of machinery required to lift water or magma by allowing for power to be supplied directly to only the most accessible pump (typically the topmost) which in turn allows the player to operate a stack limited only by how many windmills/water wheels they can fit into the area. The price of optimal parts density is fragility: each pump relies on the pump below it for support. If [[forgotten beast|anything]] breaks a pump in your stack, every pump above it will be disassembled. This means that a single pump accidentally assembled with non-[[magma-safe]] parts can cause an entire magma pump stack to spontaneously disassemble.

Typical applications for a pump stack include moving magma from a lower level (often the [[magma sea]]) up to a convenient level for forges and furnaces, extracting water from a flooded fort, raising water for a decorative [[waterfall]] (and extracting it afterwards), or any other purpose that requires water/magma on a z-level significantly above its current location.

The Illustrated Top View of a Pump Stack Layer shows a basic section of a pump stack. Only the door (or a floodgate) on the Containment side is strictly necessary in order to prevent flooding. Two doorways are used here, each lining up with the solid ground within the pump assembly, in order to prevent workers from trapping themselves after digging channels or assembling the pump.

Be warned: pump stacks move water '''fast.''' If you are pumping from a large reservoir into an open area, be prepared for a huge outflow, roughly akin to the kind of water dump you'd get if the whole reservoir was balanced above the pump output and then released. If you are using pumps to empty a large underground reservoir (or, say, a flooded fortress) onto open land, use an aqueduct or some other method to make sure the pump system outlet is a good distance away from anything you wouldn't want to get drenched.

As an alternative to a large reservoir, it is also possible to combine a [[Dwarven Atom Smasher]] with the top layer of the Pump Stack to create a "vacuum cleaner" of sorts.

====Tips====

* Ramps can be used in place of channeling. Liquids will transmit through ramps, unlike stairs, and when pumps are constructed they annihilate the ramp they're built on much as walls do. Power will still be transmitted, so they don't need to be removed by miners prior to pump construction. Ramps make it virtually impossible to strand your miners and allow the stack to be dug out using only access doorways on the intake side of the pump, so no construction or doors are later needed to eliminate leaks. A pump stack can be very rapidly carved out with this method as even if a miner/builder is trapped on the containment side of a pump, they can walk up the ramp to the intake side of the pump above and walk out.
* Power can be transmitted to the stack by channeling out the tile directly above the intake (light) tile of the topmost pump and mounting a gear assembly. If the gear assembly is supported by an adjacent gear assembly or horizontal axle on a stable floor (be careful to not have that adjacent gear assembly disengage via lever), this will allow the stack to hang from the gear assembly. If a lower pump needs to be removed, or should self-destruct, the problem of the entire pump stack disassembling described above is eliminated. Further, if the supported gear assembly is built first, the pump stack can be built both from the top and bottom simultaneously, halving construction time, assuming that sufficient attention is paid to make sure that the pumps will align with the proper orientation when the two partial stacks meet. Properly channeling/ramping out the stack should ensure this.
* When pumping water or magma, make sure any underground soil tiles on the containment side of the stack are covered with a [[construction|constructed]] floor or [[fortification]] to prevent subterranean trees from growing and blocking flow of the stack. The material need not be magma-safe, and fortifications have the added advantage that, when used with water, they will never become muddy.

===Improved Magma Pump Stack===

Because a pump stack pumping magma is known to cause significant [[Maximizing_framerate|lag]], a [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=72296.0 new type of pump stack] was developed by [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?action=profile;u=19835 NecroRebel] that causes a much smaller drop in [[FPS]]. Changing the single tile magma chamber at the output of every pump from a 1 by 1 to a 3 by 3 area reduces the lag to 1/15th of that caused by the original pump stack. The designer hypothesizes that the larger chamber requires many fewer temperature calculations when magma is pumped in or out; that also implies that there will be no improvement for water pumps.

====Newer Magma Pump Breakthroughs====

Newer breakthroughs in magma pump design has since made the 3x3 reservoir design obsolete.
NecroRebel has tested a [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=72296.msg1772802#msg1772802 1x3 head-over-tail variation] (which is very similar to [[Screw_pump#Pump_stack|the typical 1 by 1 pump stack]]) as well as a [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=72296.msg1795907#msg1795907 2x3 head-over-head variation]. Both of these new designs require less space and work as effective as his original 3x3 reservoir head-over-head design, with no significant drop in FPS. The 1x3 head-over-tail design has the advantages of requiring the least amount of space and being simple to refit from the standard 1 by 1 water pump stack.

{{buildings}}

v0.31:Water

2011-12-29T06:30:08Z

Nand: /* Stagnant water */ changed case in title to be consistent

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional|19:08, 6 July 2010 (UTC)}}

'''Water''' is a fluid found all over the world. It [[flow|flows]] from mountain springs, forming the world's [[ocean]]s, [[lake]]s, [[river]]s, and [[brook]]s. Water falls as [[rain]] and [[snow]], and freezes into [[ice]]. Water is home to a variety of [[aquatic creatures]]. Many creatures can [[Swimmer|swim]] in deep water. Air-breathing creatures that are submerged in water can [[Swimmer#Drowning|drown]] in it. Water comes in two varieties: '''freshwater''', which makes up almost all inland water, and '''saltwater''', which fills the seas. In this version, some brooks and murky pools can be saltwater even if the fortress site is partially mountainous. It is not known if this is a bug. To tell the difference, attempt to set up a drinking zone including some of the water in question. If there are zero tiles of water source available, the water is saltwater.

Mud is a [[contaminant]] which is created any time water covers an area. Any tiles that contain mud may be used for [[Agriculture|farming]].

Water is displayed with the symbols {{Tile|≈|1:7:1}} and {{Tile|~|1:7:1}}, sometimes colored different blues, and white, showing ripples. Water can also take on other colors indicating [[contaminant|contaminants]] such as '''blood''', '''ichor''', or '''goo'''. (The game can be [[Technical tricks#The look of the game|configured]] to show the depth instead).

Dark-colored water symbols indicate the water is one [[Z-level]] below the camera level. Water has 7 depth levels per tile, with 1 being a shallow puddle, and 7 filling the tile completely. [[Dwarf|Dwarves]] can safely walk through water up to a depth of 4. Dwarves finding themselves in water at a depth of 5 or greater are at risk of drowning unless they are skilled at [[swimming]].

Interestingly, water can slow falls with deep enough water and short enough falls. If the water is deep enough relative to the height of the fall, dwarves can be less injured or even completely uninjured (from a 4 level drop to a 3 level deep pool, for example)

==Evaporation==
Evaporation occurs when water or [[magma]] is at a depth of 1/7. Simply having 2/7 standing water is enough to prevent evaporation. Water or magma at 1/7 depth will even evaporate if it is on top of 7/7 depth water as shown in the example bellow.
{| style="border-spacing: 0"
|-
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{CCC}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{CCC}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|}
[[Murky pool|Murky pools]] are an exception. In '''hot''' or '''scorching''' environments a murky pool can evaporate even when it is completely full. Murky pools also generate water to simulate seasonal accumulation from rainfall. This sometimes makes it possible for a murky pool to replenish itself even when it has been completely drained.

==Freezing/Thawing==
Many environments get cold enough for water to freeze in winter. When this happens, any water that is exposed above ground will [[ice|freeze into ice]]. However, water a single tile away that is in an underground tunnel will not freeze. When ice walls thaw, they always leave a 7/7 water tile regardless of how much water may have been present when the ice formed.

When outdoor water freezes or thaws it does so instantly. Any dwarf [[swimming]] in water when it freezes will die, and any dwarf standing on a frozen pond will fall into it when it thaws, most probably leading to [[drown]]ing.

Mining ice can produce chunks of ice. Taking these chunks into a stone layer will cause it eventually melt, turning it into a "water" item (much like those hauled in [[bucket]]s) which can't be used for anything. {{Bug|360}}

[[Glacier#Cave-in_some ice_|Caving in an ice wall]] into a stone layer will cause it to instantly melt into water (provided it does not become exposed to the outdoors), which can be used to get water near the surface in a [[glacier]] biome without having to use a [[pump]] stack to pump water up from a [[cavern]] pool.

If you constructed a [[well]] or a [[Grate|floor grate]] right over top of water and it freezes, the item will be deconstructed to its original parts, but some may fall into the water.

==Flow==
Water and [[magma]] are both [[flow|fluids]] which are constantly trying to '''[[flow]]''' into adjacent tiles until they have filled all available space or until they run out of fluid. Fluids technically move in 9 directions: down, and to the sides. Fluids cannot move diagonally up or down. Fluids at a depth of 1/7 no longer attempt to move unless they can move down. Fluids under [[pressure]] can appear to travel upward until the pressure equalizes, though in reality they are moving downward and/or sideways relative to their source.

If the flow is strong enough, it can move objects such as dwarves, pets, stones, weapons or corpses.

Fluids in Dwarf Fortress act like a fairly thick, viscous material. This makes it possible to do highly implausible things like [[pump]] out a dry hole in the middle of a [[river]] or [[ocean]].

==Sourced Water==
Water that comes from [[river]]s, [[brook]]s, [[ocean]]s, [[aquifer]]s or springs is considered to be '''sourced water'''. Any sourced water is an endless supply of water that can never run dry, although it can freeze for part of the year in colder biomes.

When using sourced water you should strongly consider installing [[floodgate]]s and be aware of how [[pressure]] works or you could easily end up [[flood]]ing your fortress and having a lot more [[fun]] than anticipated.

==Salt Water==
Dwarves can not use salt water until it has been desalinated; while healthy dwarves will usually prefer to drink [[booze]], wounded dwarves can only be given water to drink.

To check to see if water is salty, use the {{k|i}} menu to see if the game shows the pond/pool as a water source. If the "water source (x)" is (0), then the source is salty. If not, then your dwarves will drink it.

A [[screw pump]] can be used to desalinate water, but if the fresh water produced ever contacts salty water, the "saltiness" will conduct through the entire body of water making the reservoir permanently salty, so be careful not to drain the fresh water into salty water (including salty aquifers). Note that once a tile is marked as salty, ''it cannot be reverted without external tools''.

Previously there was a myth that water would turn salty if it ever touched natural stone. This myth has been [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=95811 debunked], any cistern will work, except those dug into a beach, which may spontaneously turn salty (constructed cisterns on the beach are fine though).

The old 40d method of using a [[well]] to desalinate water still works in DF2010 -- sort of. Dwarves will drink water from a well over salt water, give it to sick dwarves and use it to clean wounds, but you cannot designate a well over salt water as a water source, and dwarves will receive unhappy thoughts, just like drinking stagnant water. However, they won't ''die of thirst'', so this is still a viable fallback until you can build a more proper cistern.

== Stagnant Water ==

Water taken from a murky pool or wetlands biome will be stagnant, just as water taken from near the ocean will be salty, and just like saltiness, stagnation will spread through any connected bodies of water. So if a river is joined to a murky pool, the river will immediately and permanently become stagnant. Dwarves get an unhappy [[thought]] if they have to drink stagnant water, and a [[doctor]] cleaning a [[wound]] with stagnant water will likely cause an [[Health care#Infection|infection]].

[[Pump]]ing stagnant water will make it clean, provided the reservoir has never held stagnant water. Moving water only via flow or with gravity won't clean it; pumping is required.

Note that the game will only ''describe'' stagnant water as stagnant if it's in a [[bucket]] or [[flask]]/[[waterskin]]; looking at standing or flowing water with {{K|k}} won't give any indication.

== Water laced with mud ==
If a water source is only one z-level deep and its floor is covered by "a pile of mud" (like most [[cavern|underground pools]]), then any water taken from it will be "water laced with mud". Drinking water laced with mud will give your dwarves an unhappy thought. It might also cause [[Health care#Infection|infection]] if used to clean a [[wound]].

Unlike stagnant water, merely moving the water with flow or gravity will take care of the problem, since it only occurs if the water source tile contains "a pile of mud", and water coming into contact with a clean floor only creates "a dusting of mud".

==Contaminants==
Contaminants that get into water currently can do very strange things. A pool of blood that gets covered by water will be pushed out of the water as the water flows creating more pools of blood at the edge of the water. Overflowing a large reservoir that contains contaminants of blood will generate a large amount of blood very quickly. This behavior is thought to be a bug.

==Getting Rid of Unwanted Water==
Water will flow off the edge of the map, endlessly, which is one way to get rid of large amounts of water (evaporation works better with small amounts). Underground, there are at least two ways to accomplish this. One is to channel your excess water into a dry cavern that is open to the map edge, as the water will flow out (depending on slopes and such). The other, probably easier method, is to mine to the map edge (since you cannot mine the map edge itself, just up to it), then smooth the edge and then carve [[fortification]]s into it. Water will flow through the fortifications and off the edge of the map. Make sure your exit flow is equal to or, for safety, greater than your input. One approach that may not work well is to dump your excess water into an underground lake that is open to the map edge, as such lakes have some sort of equilibrium built into them, and your excess water can cause the lake to flood.

Draining lakes and oceans from underneath can be a finicky task, but there's a bit of dwarven magic for it: build a retractable bridge on the level beneath the sea bottom, with ramps directly underneath it. Link this to a lever to control the flow as you desire. Now evacuate the dwarves and wall off the area above the bridge. Then, with the bridge in place, designate ramps around the bridge leading up - breaking through to the sea bottom. Now how can the dwarves dig these squares out? Yep, from beneath the bridge. In this way they get the water flow started without ever getting their little feet wet. This is a great way to set up channels one square in from the map edge near a water source, so that you can properly wall off the baddies from getting into the fort.

{{gamedata|{{raw|DF2010:hardcoded_materials.txt|MATERIAL|WATER}}}}

{{Category|Physics}}

v0.31:Water

2011-12-26T20:06:20Z

Nand: /* Stagnant water */ removed more saltiness myths, added the physics of how stagnant water spreads

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional|19:08, 6 July 2010 (UTC)}}

'''Water''' is a fluid found all over the world. It [[flow|flows]] from mountain springs, forming the world's [[ocean]]s, [[lake]]s, [[river]]s, and [[brook]]s. Water falls as [[rain]] and [[snow]], and freezes into [[ice]]. Water is home to a variety of [[aquatic creatures]]. Many creatures can [[Swimmer|swim]] in deep water. Air-breathing creatures that are submerged in water can [[Swimmer#Drowning|drown]] in it. Water comes in two varieties: '''freshwater''', which makes up almost all inland water, and '''saltwater''', which fills the seas. In this version, some brooks and murky pools can be saltwater even if the fortress site is partially mountainous. It is not known if this is a bug. To tell the difference, attempt to set up a drinking zone including some of the water in question. If there are zero tiles of water source available, the water is saltwater.

Mud is a [[contaminant]] which is created any time water covers an area. Any tiles that contain mud may be used for [[Agriculture|farming]].

Water is displayed with the symbols {{Tile|≈|1:7:1}} and {{Tile|~|1:7:1}}, sometimes colored different blues, and white, showing ripples. Water can also take on other colors indicating [[contaminant|contaminants]] such as '''blood''', '''ichor''', or '''goo'''. (The game can be [[Technical tricks#The look of the game|configured]] to show the depth instead).

Dark-colored water symbols indicate the water is one [[Z-level]] below the camera level. Water has 7 depth levels per tile, with 1 being a shallow puddle, and 7 filling the tile completely. [[Dwarf|Dwarves]] can safely walk through water up to a depth of 4. Dwarves finding themselves in water at a depth of 5 or greater are at risk of drowning unless they are skilled at [[swimming]].

Interestingly, water can slow falls with deep enough water and short enough falls. If the water is deep enough relative to the height of the fall, dwarves can be less injured or even completely uninjured (from a 4 level drop to a 3 level deep pool, for example)

==Evaporation==
Evaporation occurs when water or [[magma]] is at a depth of 1/7. Simply having 2/7 standing water is enough to prevent evaporation. Water or magma at 1/7 depth will even evaporate if it is on top of 7/7 depth water as shown in the example bellow.
{| style="border-spacing: 0"
|-
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{CCC}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{CCC}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|}
[[Murky pool|Murky pools]] are an exception. In '''hot''' or '''scorching''' environments a murky pool can evaporate even when it is completely full. Murky pools also generate water to simulate seasonal accumulation from rainfall. This sometimes makes it possible for a murky pool to replenish itself even when it has been completely drained.

==Freezing/Thawing==
Many environments get cold enough for water to freeze in winter. When this happens, any water that is exposed above ground will [[ice|freeze into ice]]. However, water a single tile away that is in an underground tunnel will not freeze. When ice walls thaw, they always leave a 7/7 water tile regardless of how much water may have been present when the ice formed.

When outdoor water freezes or thaws it does so instantly. Any dwarf [[swimming]] in water when it freezes will die, and any dwarf standing on a frozen pond will fall into it when it thaws, most probably leading to [[drown]]ing.

Mining ice can produce chunks of ice. Taking these chunks into a stone layer will cause it eventually melt, turning it into a "water" item (much like those hauled in [[bucket]]s) which can't be used for anything. {{Bug|360}}

[[Glacier#Cave-in_some ice_|Caving in an ice wall]] into a stone layer will cause it to instantly melt into water (provided it does not become exposed to the outdoors), which can be used to get water near the surface in a [[glacier]] biome without having to use a [[pump]] stack to pump water up from a [[cavern]] pool.

If you constructed a [[well]] or a [[Grate|floor grate]] right over top of water and it freezes, the item will be deconstructed to its original parts, but some may fall into the water.

==Flow==
Water and [[magma]] are both [[flow|fluids]] which are constantly trying to '''[[flow]]''' into adjacent tiles until they have filled all available space or until they run out of fluid. Fluids technically move in 9 directions: down, and to the sides. Fluids cannot move diagonally up or down. Fluids at a depth of 1/7 no longer attempt to move unless they can move down. Fluids under [[pressure]] can appear to travel upward until the pressure equalizes, though in reality they are moving downward and/or sideways relative to their source.

If the flow is strong enough, it can move objects such as dwarves, pets, stones, weapons or corpses.

Fluids in Dwarf Fortress act like a fairly thick, viscous material. This makes it possible to do highly implausible things like [[pump]] out a dry hole in the middle of a [[river]] or [[ocean]].

==Sourced Water==
Water that comes from [[river]]s, [[brook]]s, [[ocean]]s, [[aquifer]]s or springs is considered to be '''sourced water'''. Any sourced water is an endless supply of water that can never run dry, although it can freeze for part of the year in colder biomes.

When using sourced water you should strongly consider installing [[floodgate]]s and be aware of how [[pressure]] works or you could easily end up [[flood]]ing your fortress and having a lot more [[fun]] than anticipated.

==Salt Water==
Dwarves can not use salt water until it has been desalinated; while healthy dwarves will usually prefer to drink [[booze]], wounded dwarves can only be given water to drink.

To check to see if water is salty, use the {{k|i}} menu to see if the game shows the pond/pool as a water source. If the "water source (x)" is (0), then the source is salty. If not, then your dwarves will drink it.

A [[screw pump]] can be used to desalinate water, but if the fresh water produced ever contacts salty water, the "saltiness" will conduct through the entire body of water making the reservoir permanently salty, so be careful not to drain the fresh water into salty water (including salty aquifers). Note that once a tile is marked as salty, ''it cannot be reverted without external tools''.

Previously there was a myth that water would turn salty if it ever touched natural stone. This myth has been [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=95811 debunked], any cistern will work, except those dug into a beach, which may spontaneously turn salty (constructed cisterns on the beach are fine though).

The old 40d method of using a [[well]] to desalinate water still works in DF2010 -- sort of. Dwarves will drink water from a well over salt water, give it to sick dwarves and use it to clean wounds, but you cannot designate a well over salt water as a water source, and dwarves will receive unhappy thoughts, just like drinking stagnant water. However, they won't ''die of thirst'', so this is still a viable fallback until you can build a more proper cistern.

== Stagnant water ==

Water taken from a murky pool or wetlands biome will be stagnant, just as water taken from near the ocean will be salty, and just like saltiness, stagnation will spread through any connected bodies of water. So if a river is joined to a murky pool, the river will immediately and permanently become stagnant. Dwarves get an unhappy [[thought]] if they have to drink stagnant water, and a [[doctor]] cleaning a [[wound]] with stagnant water will likely cause an [[Health care#Infection|infection]].

[[Pump]]ing stagnant water will make it clean, provided the reservoir has never held stagnant water. Moving water only via flow or with gravity won't clean it; pumping is required.

Note that the game will only ''describe'' stagnant water as stagnant if it's in a [[bucket]] or [[flask]]/[[waterskin]]; looking at standing or flowing water with {{K|k}} won't give any indication.

== Water laced with mud ==
If a water source is only one z-level deep and its floor is covered by "a pile of mud" (like most [[cavern|underground pools]]), then any water taken from it will be "water laced with mud". Drinking water laced with mud will give your dwarves an unhappy thought. It might also cause [[Health care#Infection|infection]] if used to clean a [[wound]].

Unlike stagnant water, merely moving the water with flow or gravity will take care of the problem, since it only occurs if the water source tile contains "a pile of mud", and water coming into contact with a clean floor only creates "a dusting of mud".

==Contaminants==
Contaminants that get into water currently can do very strange things. A pool of blood that gets covered by water will be pushed out of the water as the water flows creating more pools of blood at the edge of the water. Overflowing a large reservoir that contains contaminants of blood will generate a large amount of blood very quickly. This behavior is thought to be a bug.

==Getting Rid of Unwanted Water==
Water will flow off the edge of the map, endlessly, which is one way to get rid of large amounts of water (evaporation works better with small amounts). Underground, there are at least two ways to accomplish this. One is to channel your excess water into a dry cavern that is open to the map edge, as the water will flow out (depending on slopes and such). The other, probably easier method, is to mine to the map edge (since you cannot mine the map edge itself, just up to it), then smooth the edge and then carve [[fortification]]s into it. Water will flow through the fortifications and off the edge of the map. Make sure your exit flow is equal to or, for safety, greater than your input. One approach that may not work well is to dump your excess water into an underground lake that is open to the map edge, as such lakes have some sort of equilibrium built into them, and your excess water can cause the lake to flood.

Draining lakes and oceans from underneath can be a finicky task, but there's a bit of dwarven magic for it: build a retractable bridge on the level beneath the sea bottom, with ramps directly underneath it. Link this to a lever to control the flow as you desire. Now evacuate the dwarves and wall off the area above the bridge. Then, with the bridge in place, designate ramps around the bridge leading up - breaking through to the sea bottom. Now how can the dwarves dig these squares out? Yep, from beneath the bridge. In this way they get the water flow started without ever getting their little feet wet. This is a great way to set up channels one square in from the map edge near a water source, so that you can properly wall off the baddies from getting into the fort.

{{gamedata|{{raw|DF2010:hardcoded_materials.txt|MATERIAL|WATER}}}}

{{Category|Physics}}

v0.31:Sample Starting Builds

2011-12-25T11:40:14Z

Nand: Replace an earlier military build, with a couple more heavily focused and optimized military builds.

The following are sample starting builds provided by users. They may be as specific as full skill and item specifications with a file that you can copy and paste to use yourself, or as general as suggestions on how you might set up your starting build.

===Ashery===
*Military: 5 armor use, 5 dodge. Possibly a mix of dodge and shield use instead of max dodge, but that's up in the air. Set to start training the moment goods are hauled inside the fort's entrance. Also does woodcutting as needed.
*Doctor/Leader: 1 appraise, 2 diagnose, 2 bone doctor, 2 surgeon, 2 wound dresser, 1 suture. Also serves as one of my primary miners and, once replacement miners come, the fort's first bookkeeper as well.
*Farmer/Cook: 4 farming, 5 cooking, 1 armorsmith. Does most of the early hauling grunt work, but eventually is restricted only to food related activities. No mining is done in order to keep armorsmithing as the highest moodable skill.
*Farmer/Brewer: 4 farming, 5 brewing, 1 armorsmith. Same as the cook.
*Weapon/Armorsmith: 5 armorsmith, 5 weaponsmith. Does a sizable amount of the early mining, but is removed from duty before the mining skill gets too high.
*Mason: 5 mason, 5 building design. Can help out with mining if necessary, but is usually busy constructing buildings or helping the farmers haul goods.
*Carpenter/Mechanic: 5 carpentry, 5 mechanic. An odd mix, but mechanisms are my primary export.

===Tarran===
*(every skill has five points put into it)
*2 miners/engravers (when they are not mining they are engraving)
*1 mason/carpenter (deals with all that stuff)
*1 mechanic/stonecrafter (when he is not making mechanisms he is making crafts)
*1 woodcutter/architect (when not cutting wood he is designing buildings)
*1 grower/brewer (deals with all my needs this early in the game)
*1 adequate armorsmith, weaponsmith, and metalcrafter. novice furnace operator, and wood burner (remove wood burner if you have magma)

===Ancient Enemy===
*Leader with all his points distributed through negotiation/bookkeeper/appraiser/etc.
*3 dwarves with proficient mining
*1 proficient grower
*1 proficient brewer
*1 proficient cook

===Proteus===
*Leader/Miner: 6-7 points into things important to become leader and broker (appraisal, negotiation, judge of intent, organizing and others, all at least with 1 pt), rest into mining
*Doc/Recordkeeper +at least another productive job: 1-2pts into diagnostics, 1pt in each other medical skill, 1pt in recordkeeping, rest into 1-2 jobs
*Cook: 4-5pts in cooking, 2-4pts in brewing, rest in fish cleaning and butchery
*Farmer: around 3-4pts in Growing, at least 1pt in milling, plant processing and brewing
*Crafter: Usually 5pts in stone crafting, rest in other crafting jobs (although that might change, as now bone carving has become next to worthless)
*Clothier: 2-4pts in leatherworking and clothier, rest into weaving and tanning
*Builder: Most of his points into Masonry, Engraving and Mechanics, as well as a few points into Carpenter (if no other dwarf already has pts in this job)

===Cronus===
*Miners/Mechanics: 2 dwarves with max points in mining and mechanics; get the fort, then those traps, up quickly.
*Woodcutter/Carpenter: points in woodcutting and carpentry; chop during initial dig then start pumping out beds and barrels
*Farmer/Brewer: points in farming and brewing; get the wheat and helmets in and brew during the off-season. Can also serve as butcher in a pinch.
*Crafter: points dispersed into stonecrafting, bonecarving, weaving, and leatherworking.
*Mason/Architect: points into masonry and building design. Allows a focus on walls, doors, and bridges.
*Leader/Trader: spread points among appraisal, negotiator, conversationalist, consoler, and comedian.

===Jake Grey===
* The Hunter: Ambusher, Marksdwarf, Hammerdwarf, Shield/Armour User, Dodger. Number two source of protein and useful military backup.
* The Catering Team: One Grower/Butcher/Fish Cleaner/Tanner and one Grower/Cook/Brewer/Plant Gatherer/Thresher. Usually get the Record Keeper and Appraiser points as well, since they have probably the safest jobs, and some points in mining to get things dug faster.
* The Artisans: One Carpenter/Woodcutter/Bone Carver, one Miner/Mason/Stone Crafter/Architect and one Miner/Metalsmith/Weaponsmith/Armoursmith/Furnace Operator. The blacksmith usually gets the Organiser points, as I don't embark with an anvil.
* "Dr Fisher": Adequate Diagnostician, Wound Dresser, Suturer, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Novice Fisherdwarf. The world's happiest on-call GP, feeds the fortress almost single-handed while waiting for someone to get injured.

===The Stoners===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts when needed)
*Miner/Mechanic (mines and makes levers or traps when needed)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all the furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Woodcutter (cuts wood, makes beds, bins, barrels, and cages if needed)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Grower/Brewer (farms, makes booze, and does most of the hauling early)
*Grower/Cook (farms, cooks food, and does most of the hauling early)

Supplies:
*2 Picks
*1 Battleaxe
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*5-10 of each seed
*Spend the rest of the points on anything else you want like plump helmets, animals, wood, and ores. Taking copper ores (malachite/copper nuggets) and tin ores (cassiterite) are a good choice since using them to make bronze is very cheap at 6 points per ore.

Notes:
*After hauling your wagon supplies indoors, have your smith work nonstop making fuel, smelting ores, and making weapons/armor. By the time your first migrants arrive you should have a full set of armor and a weapon for each. If not have the migrants help the smith out with smelting. Then draft them. By starting training early and having good gear your militia should do well.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts and any extra goods you have lying around like plump helmet roasts for example.

===Gemcutters===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts when needed)
*Miner/Gem Cutter (mines and cuts gems)
*Miner/Gem Setter (mines and encrusts gems into crafts and furniture)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Mechanic (makes beds, bins, barrels, cages, levers, and traps)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Farmer/Brewer (hauls early on until you hit the caverns, then will farm and brew)

Supplies:
*3 Picks
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 meat/fish/eggs
*15 plump helmets
*5 of each seed
*50 or so logs
*spend the rest on whatever else you want like animals and ores.

Notes:
*This is basically a variation of "The Stoners" build above, except modified to be used on a glacier type embark. The woodcutter is useless on glaciers so tons of wood is brought instead. The 2nd farmer is replaced with a 3rd miner in order to help find the caverns before your food runs out.
*Once you hit the caverns you can start farming on the mud. Be sure you draft your first few migrants and supply them with good gear using your smith; in order to defend yourself from anything that may be down there.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts/mugs encrusted with any gems you find.

=== The Military Elite ===
The Dwarves:
*1 Dodger (To be trained up as a dedicated miner)
*1 Armorsmith/Furnace Operator
*1 Weaponsmith/Herbalist
*2 Proficient Axe dwarves
*2 Proficient Spear dwarves
Note: The military dwarves have no secondary skill to save points for supplies. If embarking to an area without sand/soil/clay, you will want to give the miner some mining skill.

The Supplies:
*1 Anvil
*20 Iron Ore, 20 Flux Stone (For making steel weapons, helmets and other armor-pieces of choice)
*4 Copper Bars (for 2 picks and 2 wood-cutting axes)
*5 stones (for first workshops)
*15 Logs
*15 Leather (You can get by with as little as 2, for waterskins, if you need more points elsewhere)
*1 Lye, 3 Gypsum Plaster, 3 Thread, 3 Cloth (hospital supplies - optional).
*1 Male Dog and 1 Female Dog.
*2 points leftover to spend on whatever you like.
* This assumes a woodland embark. If embarking to an impoverished site without trees, you will need to bring 3 logs or 1.5 bituminous coal for every iron ore. If no copper is available, bring extra iron ore to make iron axes and picks - it's still cheaper than embarking with them.

Notes:
* The spear dwarves make charcoal, and once 2 copper axes have been forged (no wussy wooden axes for these guys), the axe dwarves chop wood. The other three dwarves take care of producing a minimal booze and food supply (cook the seeds, or slaughter the pack animals), and fulfill their roles in producing weapons and armor (including wooden shields, and leather waterskins). As soon as a suitable supply of logs and charcoal has been produced to finish all initial smelting and forging, set the military dwarves to training in 2 squads of 2. The Herbalist/Weaponsmith should train the dogs as wardogs so he has some protection while gathering plants. The starting seven form the heart of the military. It will be up to immigrants to take up more civilian roles.
* This is optimized to produce a grossly effective military

===The Six Masters===
The Dwarves:
*1 Proficient Herbalist
*6 Proficient Weapon Users

The Supplies:
*1 Anvil
*27 Iron Ore
*24 Flux Stone
*2 Leather
*10 Logs
*5 Stones
*1 Lye, 3 Gypsum Plaster, 3 Thread, 3 Cloth
*2 Dogs

Notes:
* Everyone needs to help at the beginning. Produce 2 Iron Axes and 1 Iron Pick asap. The military dwarves should mainly focus on woodcutting/burning and smelting/smithing, while the Herbalist takes care of everything else. As soon as all the gear is forged, set the 6 to training in 3 squads of 2.
*This will require being extremely efficient with the Herbalist's time, to help him out, have the military stockpile a couple of dozen logs before they start training.
*There is a point to Herbalism, in that a more skilled Herbalist produces much larger stacks of plants. This means more booze per precious barrel, more seeds for cooking, more time to do other tasks.
*This is generally a lot less tight on points if you go with some bronze-making supplies, reserving steel only for the weapons and perhaps helmets. By mixing in some bronze you can fully armor everyone. On an iron-ore-less civilization it will be necessary to go with bronze everything. If there is no iron ore, nor bronze making supplies, replace the 27 iron ore and fluxstone with 20 bronze bars.

===The Mining Guild===

The Dwarves:
*7 Proficient Miners

Supplies:
*7 Copper Picks
*100 Booze (25 of each type)
*100 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*25 Plump Helmets
*7 Logs

Notes:
*Seven miners to dig out your entire fort straight from the start with enough food/booze to last you a year or two. Let migrants fill the other roles your fortress will require.
*Don't bother hauling all these supplies. Just build a wall around your wagon site and make it accessible via a staircase underground.
*Use the 7 logs + the 3 from the wagon to make a cheap dormitory until a good carpenter migrates to you. Also make a small dining room so dwarves stop complaining.
*Plump Helmets are to be used for emergency booze only, not eaten. Keep them forbidden until enough barrels become empty.
*Now dig, dig EVERYTHING. Two hundred bedrooms, noble quarters, grand dining room, massive workshop floors, massive stockpile floors, magma smelting floors, massive tree farms, barracks, hospitals, wells, crypts, trap corridors, etc etc.

=== BillyBob and the Rock Nuts ===
{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="5"
!Profession
!Skills
|-
|FarmerBrewer
|Grower-5, Brewer-5
|-
|MinerMason
|Mining-5, Masonry-2, Engraving-3
|-
|MinerJeweller
|Mining-5, Masonry-1, GemCutting-4
|-
|LumberjackHerbalist
|Woodcutting-4,Herbalism-3, Axedwarf, Armor, Carpentry
|-
|CookDoctor
|Cook-3, Threshing-2, Diagnose, DressWounds, Suture, SetBones, Surgery
|-
|CarpenterLeader
|Carpentry-4, Leadership-3, Negotiate, Appraisal, Record Keeper
|-
|CrafterArchitect
|Stonecraft-5, Building Designer-4, Mechanic
|}
The lumberjack is the only one that _has_ to go outside, and all the rest can work indoors. Two main sources of income are farming (Sweet Pods->Dwarven Syrup) and Rock Crafting (to buy elven wood/barrels).

<pre>
[PROFILE]
[TITLE:BillyBob and the Rock Nuts]
[SKILL:1:MINING:5]
[SKILL:1:DETAILSTONE:3]
[SKILL:1:MASONRY:2]
[SKILL:2:MINING:5]
[SKILL:2:MASONRY:1]
[SKILL:2:CUTGEM:4]
[SKILL:3:WOODCUTTING:4]
[SKILL:3:CARPENTRY:1]
[SKILL:3:HERBALISM:3]
[SKILL:3:AXE:1]
[SKILL:3:ARMOR:1]
[SKILL:4:CARPENTRY:4]
[SKILL:4:NEGOTIATION:1]
[SKILL:4:APPRAISAL:1]
[SKILL:4:RECORD_KEEPING:1]
[SKILL:4:LEADERSHIP:3]
[SKILL:5:BREWING:5]
[SKILL:5:PLANT:5]
[SKILL:6:PROCESSPLANTS:2]
[SKILL:6:COOK:3]
[SKILL:6:DRESS_WOUNDS:1]
[SKILL:6:DIAGNOSE:1]
[SKILL:6:SURGERY:1]
[SKILL:6:SET_BONE:1]
[SKILL:6:SUTURE:1]
[SKILL:7:STONECRAFT:5]
[SKILL:7:MECHANICS:1]
[SKILL:7:DESIGNBUILDING:4]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_PICK:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_AXE_BATTLE:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:1:ANVIL:NONE:INORGANIC:IRON]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_WHEAT_CAVE:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:DRINK]
[ITEM:5:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:SEED]
[ITEM:12:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:SEED]
[ITEM:11:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:POD_SWEET:SEED]
[ITEM:11:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:MARMOT_HOARY:STOMACH]
[ITEM:11:PLANT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:STRUCTURAL]
[ITEM:1:THREAD:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:1:CLOTH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BOX:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:2:CHAIN:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BUCKET:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:SPLINT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:CRUTCH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:15:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:WARTHOG:MUSCLE]
[PET:2:DOG:FEMALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:1:DOG:MALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:2:CAT:FEMALE:STANDARD]
[PET:1:CAT:MALE:STANDARD]
</pre>

===Tatter's Ragtime Band===

Designed to pair important time-consuming skills with important but quickly completed skills, moodable skills with non-moodable skills, and generally embark only with skills that can't be trained from "unskilled" quickly (for example, no mining skills). Tailored to minimize bugs in versions 31.12.
*Boss: 5 points in Armor User, 1 point in Appraiser, Negotiator, Judge of Intent, Record Keeper, and Organizer. Will be your chief miner, militia commander, and all-around noble early on, and almost certainly will become expedition leader as well. As other dwarves arrive with mining and/or noble skills (even if they aren't as high-level as the Boss's), replace the Boss with them as soon as possible, to relieve his workload. Keep the Boss as your militia commander and broker, mining mostly to train his skill with a pick, until a dwarf with better skills for these tasks arrives. If you embark with dogs, give the Boss the Animal Trainer labor as well and have him train them into War Dogs for extra protection. Note: As of 31.12, training seems to finally be working as intended, making axe/sword/hammer/spear dwarves feasable. Swap the Armor User with any other weapon skills if you like, but Armor User seems to be the slowest skill to develop, and I personally prefer to stick with it for the Boss. Plus, picks being pretty crummy weapons will help if you decide to make a Sherrif or Captain of the Guard with poor weapon skills so punishing "crime" won't result in undue maiming. (Moodable skill: Mining)
*Doc: 5 points in Carpentry, 1 point in Diagnostician, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Suturer, and Wound Dresser. A doctor that can make his own beds, splints, and crutches (and tables and cabinets, if you have an excess of wood). Make him Chief Medical Dwarf right away, but replace him as soon as a better Diagnostician comes along. Make him a Plant Gatherer and Wood Cutter as well (until immigrants with better skills arrive), to give him something to do when he has nothing to build and nobody to heal. (Moodable skill: Carpentry)
*Rock Farmer: 5 points in Grower, 5 points in Gem Cutting. Farming is more difficult to set up than it used to be, but no less time consuming. Gem Cutting takes little time and provides the fortress with the highest-value, lowest-weight trade items you're likely to find early on. You can also make him a Plant Processor and/or Miller if you need the materials for emergency mood satisfaction and/or cooking, but these skills should be provided at higher levels by immigrants fairly quickly, and cloth isn't critical for an early fortress (hunt and butcher wildlife with your militia instead, and make bags/clothes out of leather). Give him the Mining labor at least, though, as all dwarves who aren't Wood Cutting or Hunting should be available as backup miners and emergency militia. (Moodable skill: Gem Cutting)
*Embalmer: 5 points in Brewing, 5 points in Leatherworking. Makes leather bags and armor early in the game, alcohol later. Assign him the Tanner and Butcher labors as well, until immigrants with better skills arrive, and the Miner labor, for the reasons stated above. (Moodable skill: Leatherworker)
*Iron Chef: 5 points in Cooking, 5 points in Weaponsmithing. Makes the steel when he isn't making a meal. Assign him the Furnace Operator and Wood Burner labors, until immigrants with better skills arrive, so he can make the raw materials of his craft, and the Miner labor on general principles. If you're unlucky with immigrants, or determined to make additional forges or metal armor right away, you can give him the Armorer and Blacksmith labors as well. (Moodable skill: Weaponsmith)
*Architect: 5 points in Mason, 5 points in Building Designer. Unlocks all buildings from the start, and will build nice stone ones that improve dwarven moods. The sheer amount of construction needed to build a secure and functional initial fort quickly may make it a good idea to turn OFF all labors for the Architect except Mason and Building Designer, at least until everyone and everything is safely underground. If you ever do finish building everthing you need, give him back any labors you turned off, and add Engraver (train him by smoothing stone first) and Miner labors as well. (Moodable skill: Mason)
*Mech Pilot: 5 points in Mechanic, 5 points in any skill you want. I used to think Ballistae were awesome, but sadly they only work well on paper, unless built (and crewed) in large numbers. If you still want to use them, putting his 5 points in Siege Engineer is better than Siege Operator, for high quality machines straight away. Build some extra catapults and sling rocks around for training when your dwarves have some free time, if you still want to use siege engines. Otherwise, you can give him a quick crafting skill, possibly one of the job skills the other dwarves would be training up from Dabbling (Armorer or Blacksmith would probably be the best). Don't attach a seriously time-consuming skill like Wood Burner or Furnace Operator, though, because this dwarf should mostly be making mechanisms for your cage traps. (Moodable skill: Mechanic)
Crafting and Gem Setter skills should be available through immigrants, but the Stonecraft skill can be trained up easily and cheaply from nothing by any dwarf that spends much time idle, if you absolutely must have something quickly. Fishing and Hunting can likewise usually wait until immigrants arrive with these skills. Chasing wolves around with your militia can be frustrating, but eventually one of them will make the mistake of trying to stand and fight, and even simple clothes can deflect most animals' teeth, claws, and horns (just don't go after bears without metal armor!).

Recommended embark items:
*1+ copper picks (use any leftover embark points to buy up to 5 spares)
*1 iron anvil, to guarantee you can make more picks quickly.
*1 wooden training axe, or battle axe if the "training axes can chop down trees" exploit is ever fixed. This will keep you from being left without fuel for the forge if you run out of wood, but can be skipped if you're embarking to an area where there are no trees (or if you're going to DIY it).
*1+ of each type of seed, mostly for the bags, as you will probably be surface farming with gathered plants until the caravans arrive anyhow. Note that quarry bush seeds are edible, and dwarves will often consume your whole initial stockpile before you can plant them.
*35-40 units of meat/fish, one from each different animal or fish that is available to your culture for 2 embark points per unit. This will give you enough meat to keep your dwarves fed until the first caravan arrives, and the maximum number of free barrels as well. Meat is generally preferred by dwarves over organs that aren't prepared in a kitchen first (meaning the barrels will be empty and available for other uses faster). Note that some animals may not have meat available (vermin like cave spiders, for example), in which case organs are preferable to nothing at all. Note that dwarven nutritional needs seem to have increased since the 31.12 patch; the original recommendation of 25-30 food probably won't even last you through summer, and getting this minimum might not even last through autumn without farming or hunting some extra.
*31 each of dwarven ale, dwarven beer, and dwarven rum. Dwarven wine will be produced in large quantities on site once subterranean farming is ready to grow Plump Helmets, and this should be enough alcohol to keep your dwarves happy until a caravan arrives with more if you need it. Dwarven alcohol needs have increased a bit too, it seems.
*Anything else that you may need more of than the site can provide right away:
**Wood, if the biomes are devoid of trees (glacier, mountain, desert, etc.).
**Metal ore, if you have plenty of trees but may need more/better metal than you are likely to find immediately (savage/evil biomes).
**Metal bars, if you need metal but trees are scarce.
**Weapons and armor, if you are mad enough to take on a Terrifying biome.
**Flux stone, if you want to make steel quickly but the embark site lacks chalk, limestone, or dolomite (marble and calcite are normally only found far too deep to be of much early use).
**Dogs, if you want a decent "militia" fairly quickly. Build a kennel and have the Boss train them into War Dogs. One male and the rest females will produce more dogs as quickly as possible.
**Plaster bags, for the hospital. You can usually find some plaster-making stones on site, but turning them into bags of plaster powder for setting bones is a difficult, time consuming, and fuel burning process, until you can build magma kilns. On the other hand, if you aren't expecting serious combat before the caravans arrive, you can usually buy more than you will ever use from them fairly cheap.
**Plump Helmets, as an emergency food/alcohol supply if you anticipate problems making a subterranean farm. Buy in quantities ending in 1, for the maximum number of free barrels. They're quite a bit more expensive than seeds, or other foodstuffs, but their utility makes up for that.

===The It-Do-Yourself Steel Option weApon Pair Strategy or TIDYSOAPS===

{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="3" style="text-align:center;float:right;margin:0 0 20px 30px;"
|-
! colspan="4" style="background-color:#eee;border-bottom:1px solid black;text-align:center;" | Embark Costs of Pre-made Implements
|-
!Material
!Battle Axes
!Picks
!Total Points
|-
|steel
|2
|
|2040p
|-
|steel
|
|2
|1320p
|-
|steel
|1
|1
|1680p
|-
|bronze
|2
|
|340p
|-
|bronze
|
|2
|220p
|-
|bronze
|1
|1
|280p
|-
|copper
|2
|
|136p
|-
|copper
|
|2
|88p
|-
|copper
|1
|1
|112p
|}
This is a power-gaming strategy that can be integrated as a component of a starting build, in lieu of a pair of steel weapons. In the current build, a steel pick costs 660p (embark points), and a steel battle axe costs 1020p. All told, we can get two steel implements at better [[Item quality|quality]] for 312p, more or less. (See the table at right for a comparison of embark costs.) The steel implements, able to double as weapons, can give your squishy [[Miner|Excavators]] and [[Wood cutter|Lumberjacks]] an advantage in battle.

You get two steel implements for a minimum total cost of '''172p'''. (312p with the skills, and those too will last you a lifetime.) It's steel for the price of [[bronze]]! What a... steal. *uncomfortable cough* This gives you a savings of up to 1868p, which means you roughly double-and-a-half your embark points. It just takes a bit of time and dwarf labor.

'''Prepare for the journey carefully:'''

At the [[Embark]] screen, choose the following items:

* Required
** 3p x 1 unit of [[fire-safe]] [[stone]] from the Stone category
** 100p x 1 [[iron]] [[anvil]]
** A distinct lack of [[steel]] weapons

* Main, cheapest, most desirable raw materials
** 24p x 2 units of iron [[ore]] from the Stone category ([[Hematite]], [[Limonite]], or [[Magnetite]])
** 6p x 2 units of [[flux]] stone from the Stone category ([[Calcite]], [[Chalk]], [[Dolomite]], [[Limestone]], or [[Marble]])
** 3p x 3 units of [[Bituminous coal]] from the Stone category
** 0p x3 logs of any type of [[wood]]
*** From deconstructing your [[Wagon]]
** 0p (No [[Skill|skills]] taken)

*'''Recommended''' but optional:140p (4 skills x 35p for embark skills at Proficient: [[Furnace operator]], [[Wood burner]], [[Metalsmith]] and [[Weaponsmith]])

You want more than two implements?

'''For each successive weapon pair: (72p)'''

The same scheme can be used to make more weapon pairs. For four implements, just double all of the raw materials and add an extra [[Bituminous coal]] to make up for the lack of wood from the wagon. Simply add more of the raw materials to provide for more pairs. The rough cost is 72p per successive pair. Your only constraint is more time and dwarfpower.

*For an extra pair of steel weapons:
**24p x 2 units of [[iron]] [[ore]] from the Stone category ([[Hematite]], [[Limonite]], or [[Magnetite]])
**6p x 2 units of [[flux]] [[stone]] from the Stone category ([[Calcite]], [[Chalk]], [[Dolomite]], [[Limestone]], or [[Marble]])
**3p x 4 units of [[Bituminous coal]] from the Stone category

'''Substitutes for above grocery lists:'''

Due to extenuating circumstances, such as the variability of the goods your [[Civilization|parent civilization]] has
available, some substitutes may be used:

* Substitutes
** Fuel:
*** 3p x 3 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of the Wagon wood
****Don't deconstruct wagon
*** 3p x 5 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of 3 Bituminous coal
**** Make 8 charcoal
*** 10p x 1 units of [[fuel|charcoal or coke]] and 1 Bituminous coal instead of wagon wood
**** Don't build wood furnace
*** 10p x 8 units of [[fuel|charcoal or coke]] instead of wood + coal
**** Skip wood furnace and coke making
** Single option sub. to save time:
*** 50p x 1 iron bar + 50p x 1 pig iron bar instead of 2 iron ores + 1 flux stone + 1 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood
*** 150p x 2 steel bars instead of 2 iron ore + 2 flux stone + 2 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood

'''Strike the earth!'''

* Deconstruct the [[Wagon]] your [[Embark|starting goods]] come in.
* Build a [[Wood furnace]] with the fire-safe stone
** Use 3 wood to make '''3''' charcoal
** Deconstruct the furnace

* Build a [[Smelter]] using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed furnace
** Smelt 3 bituminous coal (powered with 3 charcoal) --> into 9 units of coke
** Smelt 2 iron ores (powered with 2 coke) --> two iron bars
** Smelt '''ONE''' iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 1 pig iron bar
** Smelt 1 iron bar + 1 pig iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 2 steel bars
** Deconstruct the smelter

* Build a [[Metalsmith's forge]] using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed smelter + iron anvil
** Using 2 steel (powered with 1 coke) forge 2 weapons
** Deconstruct the forge

* At the end of which, all you will have left relevant to the strategy are:
** A unit of fire-safe rock
** Two steel weapons
** An iron anvil
** Possibly an extra coke

You could then, for instance, embark with several copper picks since pick material doesn't really help actual mining much{{Verify}}, then forge axes. Lots of them. Only 72p per pair. Wowza.
Why buy picks? If you're running this setup it's cheaper to get steel.

v0.31:Cross-training

2011-12-17T11:16:04Z

Nand: /* Different Programs: */ Pump operating is excellent for cross-training due to it's simplicity and convenience. Copied and modified (mainly simplified) the 40d entry.

{{quality|Fine|20:28, 24 August 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

'''Cross-training''' is the process of training your civilian dwarves in military pursuits, or vice versa, and can offer several benefits. First and most importantly, it can be a good way of raising attributes, leading to stronger, tougher, faster dwarves. Secondly, it provides a handy pool of recruits for when your military takes a beating or gives your civilians a halfway decent chance of defending themselves. Thirdly, it can provide useful replacements for when your legendary mason accidentally blunders into a troll and gets all his limbs broken. Finally, it's a more productive use of time than standing around idling.

There is nothing saying you have to use only one of these ideas; they are all various approaches toward addressing these areas.

==Cross-training (starting a reserves program)==
The biggest thing to remember with a reserves program is that if you're going to go, you go all the way. Don't institute something "just for a little while" and come up with a handful of novice reservists; they will not get significant stat increases and you'll only waste time. Time is not something you have a heck of a lot of in a reserves program, typically. Remember that after you draft them, most dwarves are going to need about a year of sparring or training before they're ready for heavy combat. You might not have that much time if you are getting sieges regularly.

===Different Programs:===

====Gym ([[pump operator]])====
The Gym is the most basic sort of reserves program; it merely consists of building a bunch of [[screw pump]]s connected to nothing in a room that's close to [[food]], [[bed]]s, and [[drink]]. After the pumps are built, order them to be pumped manually, then turn on [[Pump operator|pump operating]] for your reservists.

'''Pros:'''
*Easy and extremely cheap to set up;
*Requires no continuous oversight on your part.
*Beneficial for fps, air-pumpers consume, produce and move nothing.
*Somewhat fast training; legendary in under a year (if other responsibilities like hauling are minimized).
*Very convenient; gyms can be placed anywhere in your fortress with no issues. 
*Inactive marksdwarf squads can operate pumps to cross-train and be activated at a moment's notice - boost attributes without using bolts.
*If desired, you can arrange your pumps so they power one or more indoor [[waterfall]]s or other water-powered devices.
'''Cons:'''
*Generates nothing useful other than the increased attributes of the trainee.
*Tons of cancel job spam. Every time a reservist exhausts himself and goes to satisfy his basic needs, you'll see "Urist McScrewpumper cancels Operate Pump: Exhausted."
*If you have any pumps around that actually DO need to be operated every so often (refilling your [[well]], for example), it could be a serious pain to juggle the useless gym pumps and the ones that are actually useful.

====Artillery proving ground ([[siege operator]])====
Mass-produce some catapults, line them up near a quarry, and fire away. Works well to dispose of stone from a gulag (see below). 
'''Pros:'''
*Trains a skill that's reasonably useful, and provides a place to put all the sub-par siege engine components your [[siege engineer]] will doubtlessly create if you're going for superior-quality engines.
*Harasses the wildlife, which is always fun. 
'''Cons:'''
*Very slow to train (2+ years for legendary).
*Fairly space-consuming to set up a well-designed and usable proving ground.
*Can be dangerous depending on the biome (especially when [[elephant]]s are present. If they get winged by a stray boulder, you can bet they're going to be coming straight at you).
*[[Siege operator]]s are civilians, and will run in fear when an enemy approaches them.

====Internship MkII ([[manager]])====
Much like bookkeeping, assign a new dwarf to manager, queue several hundred jobs, and rotate a replacement in as soon as he becomes legendary. For bonus points, queue jobs which need to be repeated anyway, like "Prepare Raw Fish" or "Mill Plants", or jobs for which there is no workshop, like "Make Wooden Bow" or "Make Soap". 
'''Pros:'''
*Requires no extra infrastructure at all.
*You need a manager anyway!
*Mostly safe; a manager spends basically all his discretionary time snug in his office, or doing his other assigned jobs.
'''Cons:'''
*Only employs one dwarf at a time; not useful when you have 15-25 candidates for the reserves.
*No announcement when the current intern reaches Legendary status means you can lose time on rotation easily.
*Produces little to no useful attribute gains

====Gulag ([[miner]])====
The gulag is basically a strip mine that is located far away from your main fortress (so you don't have to worry about accidentally screwing up your own building plans; if you are careful in planning, it may be placed closer to your fortress). Take a big square and start leveling it; it's really no more complicated than that. Since [[pick|picks]] can actually be used as weapons, it's worthwhile to give the reservists who will be working in the gulag picks made out of [[bronze]], or, if you are really living large, [[iron]] or even [[steel]]. Note that you will have to turn your usual mining corps (the civilian miners who are already experienced with mining) off or designate separate mining [[burrow]]s for this setup to work properly. It might be convenient to use a locked door to isolate the gulag from the main fortress, once a batch of trainees are inside. 
'''Pros:'''
*Soldiers can be equipped with picks from the military skill, and use the Miner skill in combat - militia squads of highly-skilled miners can provide a decent defence from early threats
*Toting a pick for close-quarters support might make a legendary [[marksdwarf]] more useful, since the pathetic bludgeon damage of his [[wood]] and [[bone]] [[Weapon#Dwarf-manufactured Weapons|crossbows]] are less important.
*Can be quite useful for producing stones you might not have access to normally, or uncovering veins of precious metals.
*Levels quite fast in sand.
*Relatively little oversight from you.
*An overland hike to the gulag will fight [[cave adaptation]] in your military candidates.
*Can easily be transformed into a [[Caverns#Vegetation|underground tree farm]] on suitable maps, providing a safe and replenishable wood source.

*Mining trains all military attributes, so it's perfect for military training too
'''Cons:'''
*Juggling your real miners and your reservists when there's real work to be done on the fort can be a chore.
*Hard to keep dwarves in the gulag for too long; they'll inevitably get hungry, thirsty, and tired and start hiking back to the fortress proper. Could be solved by (temporary) [[burrow]].
*Can be dangerous, depending on the biome.
*Does require some amount of oversight from you, especially when your reservists start getting better at mining and run out of work more quickly.
*Low-skill miners may discover---and then partially destroy---valuable gem or mineral deposits.
*Surplus stone and mining in general are suspected to promote [[Maximizing_framerate|lag]].

====Renovation ([[stone detailing]])====
Another convenient way to buff up your dwarves, assigning your reservists to mass [[stone detailing]] duty increases your fortress' architectural wealth and makes the place look nicer. While they may clutter the halls somewhat, it doesn't require any special allocation of [[food]], [[Bed|beds]] or [[drink]]. Just turn on [[stone detailing]] for your reservists and mark up as much of the fortress as you like for renovation. 
'''Pros:'''
*Even easier to set up; just assign your dwarves and an area and you're good to go.
*Increases your fortress' value and general happiness.
*Requires no continuous oversight on your part.
*Very safe, if you only assign areas inside the fortress.

'''Cons:'''
*Wealth overflow may bring too many [[immigrants]].
*Serious conflict with [[engraving]] assignments; trying to engrave with poorly trained engravers wastes a lot of wealth that essentially comes from nothing. To avoid this, have periods when you only designate stone smoothing, followed by periods where you only designate engraving.
*Careless designation of smoothing areas may have your dwarves trying to smooth walls too close to [[magma]] or a [[river]].


====Sweatshop ([[mason]])====
Make one or more [[mason's workshop]]s in an area with a bunch of junk stone you don't care about, or that you're actively looking to clear. Change the workshop settings to allow only your reservists to use it, then tell the workshop to churn out crafts, junk furniture, stone blocks, and trade goods that you can trade en-masse. Alternatively, forbid your reservists from working in your real mason's workshops, order lots of stone constructions built, and pray that your real masons stay too occupied with the workshops to intrude. Works well in conjunction with a gulag. Alternate ideas for sweatshops include a [[mechanic's workshop]], [[craftsdwarf's workshop]], [[Kiln|magma kiln]], or a [[Glass furnace|magma glass furnace]] to train [[mechanic]], [[Stone crafter|stonecrafter]], [[potter]] and [[glassmaker]] respectively. ''Note: Do NOT try this with the [[carpenter]] skill unless you have a large supply, or any other resource you don't have in near-limitless abundance. Sweatshops will consume huge amounts of their associated resources, and if you run out mid-way you have probably wasted your time. This includes [[coke]] or [[charcoal]] used in the normal (non-magma) [[glass furnace]].'' 
'''Pros:'''
*Quantitatively turns a profit. The inferior trade goods can be dumped on the next caravan for more useful commodities like bags, seeds, and logs. Logs are especially useful, since you'll inevitably stamp out lots of bins to support the trade good output.
*Mass-producing blocks makes your constructions higher value.
*Unlike many other training programs, Sweatshops train a skill that is very useful.

'''Cons:'''
*Slow to level.
*Hard to keep the reservists on task, since they'll need to do plenty of hauling to keep their workshop from becoming chokingly cluttered.
*Can be a logistical nightmare; making bins and organizing hauling for the finished goods can be insane if you're working from a gulag.
*Can be dangerous depending on the biome and location of your sweatshops.
*Note also that stone blocks cannot be made into furniture or stone crafts. This may or may not be an issue depending on where you're putting your gulag.

====Dwarf Powered Mill ([[grower]], [[cook]], [[miller]])====
Start off by creating a surplus of [[longland grass]], [[cave wheat]], and/or [[whip vine]] and some bags. Create multiple [[quern]] all close to the food stockpile which contains the millable plants. Next to this area make a [[kitchen]] assigned to an experienced cook. Enable milling for the dwarves you wish to cross-train and order the cook to make lavish meals. As long as your growers provide a steady supply of millable plants and your cook can empty out bags quick enough, the milling jobs will continue. 
'''Pros:'''
*Produces a lot of wealth as flour is a high value ingredient
*Produces high amounts of food
*Sustains the training of non cross-training dwarves such as the cook and growers

'''Cons:'''
*Requires a surplus of millable plants to ensure continuous milling, thus you may need to increase the number of plots/growers
*If you don't have enough bags and your cook decides to go on break you may end up having job cancellations for the millers
*Dedicated haulers will be required to keep all workshops clutter free

====Clear Cutting====
As long as wood hauling is turned off, dwarves will move from one tree to the next without stopping to bring the wood back. On a heavily forested map, this means that dedicated wood cutters can skill up very quickly.

Of course, this training strategy isn't going endear you with the elves.

'''Pros:'''
*Works quickly
*Trees regrow
*Provides useful lumber to carpenters, charcoal makers, etc
*Can cause problems with elves
'''Cons:'''
*Can cause problems with elves
*Map dependent
*Unless care is taken to only designate a small area for cutting, trainees and haulers can be spread out across the map while, making them vulnerable to creatures and ambushes.

====Dwarf Scouts ([[ambusher]], [[hunter]], [[marksdwarf]])====
Marksdwarves are an important part of any military. A bum rush of low level marksdwarves is good, but not as effective as an elite backup squad! Here is what you can do:
Draft a comfortable amount of dwarves to hunting, give them all cheap crossbows. Your dwarves should hunt as usual. But you are really training an elite squad of assassins, that will one day hunt goblins instead of groundhogs.

'''Pros:'''
*Easy to start.
*Lots of meat, bones and leather around.
*Aforementioned bones can be recycled to make new bolts.

'''Cons:'''
*Doesn't work on some maps.
*Hunting is dangerous!
*Not as economically productive as some other methods.

====Charm School ([[Social skill|Social skills]])====
(Note: Inspired by [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=47533.0 milaga's Real Wagon experiment], details of this technique are still being investigated.)
This approach is less useful in the new version, as social skills will only produce "Soul" attribute gains. However, teaching your dwarves social skills is useful for training replacement Brokers, and can possibly reduce the chances of tantrums in the fort (more dwarves with high Consoler and Pacifier skill).

Set up a small space with food, booze, and a few beds/chairs/tables, stashing your new immigrants in it, and locking the door for a few seasons. (Be sure to turn off all of their labors and designate it as a meeting place.) With no labors enabled and nothing to do, they'll chat and party and quickly buff up their comedian, flatterer, conversationalist, &c. skills.

'''Pros:'''
*works on any map
*easy to set up
*trains many dwarves at once
*requires almost zero player oversight
*easily scales to any size of immigrant wave
*requires no resources the dwarves would not already be consuming (food, beds, &c)
*very safe
*no conflict with existing workshops or skills, unlike gulag or sweatshop

'''Cons:'''
*dwarves gain no professional skills during this time, and their existing ones may rust
*lowers physical attributes due to rust
*produces no trade goods or useful items for the fortress
*produces many romances and tight-knit friendships, which [[Tantrum#Tantrum Spiral|put you at risk]] of suddenly having lots of [[losing#General Unhappiness|Fun]]
*inter-dwarf personality conflicts can produce early misery and tantrums. This can be prevented with quality furniture and food, and the risk is eliminated once friendships and relationships are formed and producing happy thoughts.
*unless the entrance and path from the exterior are carefully set up, you will probably have to draft new dwarves and station them in the charm school to move them there; this will produce an unhappy thought that can exacerbate the early period of tension

====National self-defense training====
''Note: with the new military system, proper self-defense training is somewhat more complicated to set up, but allows much more effective reservist training once it's running. Make sure you're familiar with the [[Scheduling]] system before attempting this.''

This is the process of training all your civilians in a basic military skill - or at least, most of them. Any time a dwarf is activated into the military, and they do not have at least Novice level in some combat skill, they get a bad thought. The easiest way to do this is to assign every new [[migrant]] to dedicated training [[squad|squads]], and assign that squad a barracks. Then, schedule these squads to Train one or more months in the year, and set all other months to "No Scheduled Order". Then go to the Squads menu and set the squad to "Active/Training". One month in six or one month in 12 will ensure skills don't get too rusty, as well as ensuring all dwarves reach a basic level in soldiering. To increase the rate at which dwarves gain skills, you can place one experienced soldier in each squad, which will make demonstrations much more valuable. It is worth setting the "Train" order in the schedule to less than 10 minimum; this allows dwarves to take time out to eat, drink, sleep...

Then, if they ever get caught where they don't want to be (maybe they bump into a thief coming around a corner, or a flying critter jumps them, or you need to urgently order them out of the path of a magma flood, or send them to the [[Lever|control room]] - anything), not only can you activate them with no bad thoughts, but every dwarf has a better chance at not-dying - which can only be a good thing. Moreover, idle dwarves will now go to "Individual Combat Drill" rather than standing around timewasting.

Note: if you're feeling cheap, training squads can be set to "No Uniform". This will teach wrestling. However, it's probably a better idea to churn out some training weapons, wooden shields, and leather armour - this will ensure minimal sparring injuries, as well as teaching shield user and armour user.

===Overview===
*The charm school can cross-train many dwarves in the many mental attributes, but produces no useful items, trade wealth, or professional skills. The method is also still being refined and potential pitfalls may still be uncovered.
*Artillery training can give you some siege operators, which will be useful if you have ballistae.
*The internship only trains up one dwarf at a time. Your stocks could also lag behind if you are unlucky.
*The gulag requires planning, and your dwarves in the fortress proper may run all the way to the gulag to grab a stone for some crafts, a chair, etc. It does, however, train your dwarves in mining quickly, which is always a useful skill.
*Renovation is hands-free, but may bloat your fortress wealth too quickly.
*The sweatshop creates a large amount of goods, which can be traded away to keep traders happy. It also increases your wealth by quite a lot, which can be good or bad depending upon your situation. The goods are also difficult to manage.
*National self-defence training is easy to manage when set up and lets you give your civilians clothes and light armour to keep them safe. However, it can take valuable workers away from their job if the training is too frequent.

Note that the artillery training and internship don't take away [[strange mood]] potential (you can give those dwarves dabbling in anything you want and that's how they'll get theirs), while the gulag, renovation, and sweatshop do.

{{Military FAQ}}

{{Category|Military}}
{{Category|Fortress defense}}

v0.31:Swimmer

2011-12-02T23:22:11Z

Nand: /* Learning/Teaching swimming */

{{Quality|Fine}}
{{Skill
| color = 3:0
| skill = Swimmer
| specialty = Peasant
| profession = None
| job name = None
| tasks =
* Getting in and out of water
* Staying calm underwater
| attributes =
* Strength
* Agility
* Endurance
* Willpower
* Spatial Sense
* Kinesthetic Sense
}}
{{av}}

== Drowning ==
'''Swimmers''' can move in {{L|water}} without drowning.

{{L|Experience|Dabbling}} or untrained swimmers will start drowning immediately upon contact with water, and require a {{L|ramp}} or {{L|stairs|stairway}} to get out. If neither are accessible, they're done for. Unfortunately outdoors natural pools and ponds do not have ramp edges. One can channel a safety ramp into each pond however.

A novice swimmer is able to safely get out of water without needing a ramp or stairway, but they will start drowning if {{L|Status_icons|stunned}}, and once that happens it can be difficult to get them out, as they lose the ability to exit anywhere and behave just like an untrained or dabbling swimmer. Namely, they start drowning. Everyone is stunned by falling into water rather than entering it calmly, which is what normally happens when they aren't entering it of their {{L|Carp|own free will}}.

Adequate swimmers do not panic and start drowning like novices do in that sort of situation, even when attacked, so training to this level is highly recommended. Higher levels only increase the speed when swimming with a legendary swimmer being almost as fast as he would be while running.

== Learning/Teaching swimming ==
A dwarf in the water will gain the ability to swim very fast - sadly not fast enough to prevent dying from drowning. While water with a depth of 7/7 is deadly for non-swimmers, less than it will not harm any dwarf. So you can use water from 4/7 to 6/7 safely to teach your little ones how to swim. The speed of learning is independent from the depth, but water with a depth less of than 4/7 is not deep enough to make a dwarf swim and so to learn.

Training your little ones just requires a place of constantly or temporarily 4-6/7 water. Military orders or making rooms a meeting hall will not entice dwarves in to the water, so you may need to prevent them from leaving an area (locked door etc) and then fill the area with the required amount of water, or dump them in from the above z-level using a draw bridge.

A fully automated method to train idlers is to use water flowing over a 1-z drop, with a 1-wide meeting zone at the top of the ledge, and a swimming pool at the bottom. Idlers will go to the meeting zone, be swept over the side into the pool and swim to the ramp, and repeat this for as long as they are idle.

Swimming, since it involves no activity, can be potentially useful to train physically handicapped dwarves, whose conditions might go away or become manageable with an attribute boost to strength, endurance, willpower etc.

== Adventure Mode ==
In {{L|adventurer mode}}, as a novice swimmer, by moving carefully ({{k|alt}}+direction) into open space above water and selecting the option to move below (such as West/Below), then you can swim about without getting stunned and starting to drown. To get out, alt-move carefully against a shoreline and select the option to move above.

Swimmers can also dive and rise through the {{L|z-axis}} by pressing {{k|>}} and {{k|<}} respectively. Note that air-breathers will be unable to breathe without air in the tile above them, and without returning to the surface will eventually drown. (Sadly, there's no oxygen meter as of yet, so you'll never know when they're about to expire. Don't linger too long.)

In adventure mode, water preference can be switched between "when possible" and "necessary" by pressing {{k|m}}.

If the temperature (press {{k|P}}) is "freezing" or if it is "cold" and close to sundown, the water may freeze while you are swimming, which encases you in ice and leaves your frozen corpse as a valuable find for archeologists.
{{Skills}}

v0.31:Starting build

2011-11-28T20:23:37Z

Nand: /* Quality, value, and happiness */

{{quality|Exceptional|10:09, 24 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

:''This is not a tutorial, a FAQ, or a new players guide. This is a mildly advanced theoretical treatment for someone ready to take the plunge and make all the decisions about their own fortress. The following are intended for beginners:''
::*{{l|Quickstart guide}}
::*[[From Caravan to Happy Dwarves|Beginner Flowchart]]
::*[[User:Calite#Jumping_into_Dwarf_Fortress_Mode|Beginner Checklist]]
:''For an explanation of the interface for starting out, see {{l|Embark}}.''

A '''starting build''' is a personal strategy for choosing the initial supplies, equipment, and {{l|skill}}s of your initial seven dwarves when starting a new game in {{l|fortress mode}}. (See {{l|Sample Starting Builds}}). These skills and items which you assign to your dwarves will have a large impact on life in your new fortress, especially in its first year.

This page attempts to provide a discussion about how and why you make the choices on what you bring with you. This page is not an explanation of the mechanics of doing so, see the {{l|embark}} page for an explanation of the interface itself. This page assumes you have already made certain decisions, such as where you plan on settling, and that you are looking at the [[DF2010:Embark#Prepare_Carefully|Prepare Carefully]] screen.

One thing should be made clear - there is no "best" build, no "perfect" or "clearly superior" final mix of skills and items, if only because there isn't any one goal of play. The goals you have for a fortress will dictate which sets of items and skills are best suited to achieving that goal - in your opinion. And then there is the environment, where your dwarves will arrive, the creatures, the resources available, and so forth. Finally, some people do things solely because it is hard, and that makes it more fun for them.

__TOC__

== Components of a Starting Build ==
There are two main components of a starting build: skills and items.

Skills for your initial dwarves determine how quickly they will work early on, what industries you are guaranteed to be able to start with skilled workers, how well you can defend your dwarves early on, and what the quality of various goods they produce will be, and possibly many other considerations. This page considers in detail how you might go about choosing skills for your starting dwarves, and examines the multiple competing perspectives from which you can make that decision.

The items that your dwarves bring with you can be tailored a number of ways. There are trade-offs to cheaper and more expensive alternatives, and reasons why you might choose either. This section explores the nature of these trade-offs and the reasons for making a decision. It also looks at optimizing goods brought in more general contexts.

Starting builds can and should vary based upon a number of other variables. {{l|location|Where you choose to settle}} will give you a fortress that supplies different raw materials and thus require different skill sets to utilize, not to mention different threats from native wildlife based on {{l|biome}}, {{l|surroundings|savagery}}, and {{l|surroundings|alignment}}. Which dwarven civilization you come from will restrict the materials with which you can start. Making choices about these variables is not part of a starting build. What you choose for skills and items because of these choices is part of your starting build, and so some general guidelines about different environments is given last.

This page does not cover the interface for accomplishing these tasks. Please see the {{l|embark}} page.

== Skill Optimization ==
With only 7 dwarves, you can't take every {{l|skill}}, so you have to balance what you do take. At this starting phase, each dwarf can only be assigned a maximum total of 10 skill levels, with no single skill starting higher than "5". Actual skill distribution is thus constrained to be something between 1 level in each of 10 skills, or 5 levels in each of two skills, or something in between. Because dwarves can {{l|experience|learn}} any and all skills once your fortress starts, these initial choices do not dictate what the dwarves can do, opening up incredible latitude to choose skills for reasons other than survival.

:''(* Note that an unskilled dwarf starts with all Skills at Level '''0'''. Adding +5 Levels is then Level '''5'''. This is true regardless of how many "points" a level costs when first buying skills at embark.)''

A brief list of considerations governing skill choice:
:* Maximizing starting skill ranks vs. generalizing and having more skills covered at lower levels.
:* Balancing multiple skills for a single dwarf, so they aren't constantly needed for two different tasks at critical periods
:* Military vs economic needs
:* Your goals vs "basic survival needs" to keep your fortress healthy and happy.
:* Speed that a skill can be trained in game
:* Demand for a skill during a game
:* Whether quality or speed are significant considerations for tasks/final product
:* Balancing the desire to create {{l|wealth}} ''(with high-value products)'' with the need to maintain {{l|thought|morale}} ''(with low-value but commonly used products, like {{l|bed}}s, which normally are made from {{l|wood}})''.
:* most importantly - ''your playstyle'' - what '''you''' think is "fun"!

==== Breadth vs. Depth ====

A dwarf with only 2 starting skills at 5 ranks each is pretty good at 2 tasks, but untrained at anything else. A dwarf with nothing higher than level 1 is passable at many tasks, but not good at anything. Each dwarf in your party is going to be somewhere along this continuum, and you'll need to choose where.

Level in a skill dictates how fast a dwarf completes a task (most of the time), and how well he completes it (if applicable). On one extreme, {{l|butchery}} has no time variance for slaughtering a tame animal, and has no quality associated with the outcome. On the other extreme, {{l|Metal industry|metalworking}} tasks can take a long time for an untrained worker to complete and their high material value means the quality multiplier has a large impact on the end value.

Dwarves who complete tasks faster can do more total {{l|job}}s within a given timeframe. The rate at which speed increases with level varies with skill, so some skills will benefit more than others.

Dwarves who make items of higher quality will contribute more to fortress wealth and may have a large impact on fortress happiness if their work is readily available to be seen by other dwarves. Items which typically contribute to happiness are low value but common public items, like beds and tables. Items which contribute the most to fortress wealth often cannot be displayed, but make useful trade goods or equipment for your military.

A dwarf highly skilled in few areas will work faster at those tasks and produce higher quality work than his more generalized counterpart. However, he will do worse at any other task he is set to.

Aside from the obvious trade off, there is another reason to prefer depth - dwarves can obviously only complete so many total jobs within a given timespan. If a dwarf is busy doing one thing, he can't simultaneously be doing something else. So a dwarf who is highly skilled in a few skills may not actually experience any disadvantage thereby if he is kept doing those things in which he specializes. The generalist dwarf, on the other hand, may be able to do many more different tasks adequately, but he can still only do one type of task at a time. A dwarf with one highly used skill (such as Mechanics or Mining) can feasibly spend all his time using only his primary skill and thus has no need to generalize. In effect, the generalist is wasting more skill points whenever he does jobs than the specialist, so long as the specialist tends to do jobs he has levels in. Specializing your initial skill investment is therefore superior if you specialize the division of labor in your fortress.

Of course, you can still only bring 7 dwarves with 10 total levels of skills each, so covering everything you want to do in 14 skills may be hard, if not impossible. A generalist or two can cover more bases that have little quality need or are otherwise fast even without a high level. The generalists real problem arises from the fact that any dwarf can do any task, and having 1 level isn't much better than having no levels. Which isn't to say there isn't a situation where a 1/1/1/1/1/5 dwarf is the right solution (indeed, the typical recommended leader/broker takes 1/1/1/1/1 in appraiser/judge of intent/negotiator/+2 social skills because none of these skills have a time or quality component), but most less-specialized dwarves are more likely to fall in the 5/3/2 or 4/3/3 end of the spectrum solely because there is a minimum investment necessary to be noticeably better than not having any levels at all.

==== Design Constraints: Which skills do I need, really? ====

The only thing that you absolutely must do in the first year is get your food supplies into a food stockpile, preferably inside, otherwise your food will rot on the ground and your dwarves will starve. Anything else you want to do can be accommodated by sufficient investment in initial food supplies and/or skills. This means the options for possible starting builds are vast because virtually any set of starting skills for your dwarves is viable (and that's before you even think about equipment, which adds more variables). So the short answer is: none.

That said, there are some skills which will be '''used''', to one extent or another, by virtually every fortress - but that doesn't mean you '''need''' or even want to invest points in them to start. You could even manipulate the fortress (see {{l|challenge}}) to completely avoid one or more of the following, but these are the skills you will find it exceptionally hard to avoid creating jobs for:
:{{l|Mining}} - to dig your fortress, and gain stone for projects. Only possible to avoid using if you're secretly an elf.
:* Inexperienced {{l|miner}}s work very slowly and are less likely to recover mined gems or valuable ores. Mining can be leveled up quite quickly by mining {{l|soil#soil|soil}}, but taking two dwarves with at least some points in mining is recommended in many cases.
:{{l|Carpentry}} - {{l|bed}}s can only be produced from {{l|wood}} (rare {{l|mood}}s aside). This skill can also be used to make {{L|bin}}s without having to have an {{L|anvil}}, use any metal {{L|bar}}s, or use any {{L|fuel}}.
:{{l|Masonry}} - to build walls and stairs, and fashion dwarven furniture from stone. Possible to work around, but incredibly hard and annoying to do.
:{{l|Grower|Growing}} - your farmers' work echoes throughout so many other tasks, it's stunning
:* While its possible to feed your fortress on nothing but caravan goods, you'll never come by enough alcohol that way, so you'll eventually need to grow crops for brewing, and dwarves will literally go crazy if forced to drink nothing but water for long periods. Thus you'll want to plan for farming eventually - not that you need to bring a highly skilled {{l|Grower}}, but it'll certainly be ''very'' helpful. Likewise, a skilled {{l|brewer}} produces {{l|alcohol}} quicker, which improves your dwarves' mood as they have constant access to it, as does a skilled {{l|cook}} with the foods they prepare. However, most food can be eaten raw, and so long as they are not starving there is life.
:{{l|Brewing}} - ''All'' dwarves "need alcohol to get through the working day."
:{{l|Mechanics}} - If you want traps, and most people will. Also needed for most machinery. Mechanisms sell for a high price as a bonus.
:{{l|Architecture|Building Designer}} - Mandatory for some buildings and constructions, but skill only improves speed a tad and increases structure {{l|value}}
:{{l|Broker skills}} - Most importantly {{l|appraiser}} - you will use these whenever you trade with a caravan. Because of this, a minimum of Broker skills are highly recommended to start with at the Novice (1 pt) level (especially Novice level of {{l|Appraiser}}
:{{l|Record keeper}} - Gives you access to the stocks screen and will let you accurately survey the resources of your fortress.
The very fact that you will use these skills can make many of them desirable to choose as starting skills for your dwarves. Of the above, Mining, Masonry, Growing, Brewing, Cooking, and Mechanics are generally worth considering as "highly desirable". However, '''any skill can be used untrained, and/or get trained on the job''' - it just means a slower process and/or average lower quality product than if done by a dwarf with a higher {{l|experience|skill level}}. Some of these skills (eg, Record Keeper) are rarely worth investing initial points in even though you will almost always use it. Others of them (eg, Mining, Carpentry) may or may not be worth investing points in depending on your goals or the tempo with which you want to achieve them. (Mining is easy to train so you could forgo initial investment and just train on the job. A skilled carpenter can contribute a lot to fortress mood, but won't produce much value, see the discussion of Quality below).

The difference between these skills and other skills is that other skills are optional as to whether they'll get used or not. You need to deliberately want to use them. These skills are essential to basic aspects of the game, and avoiding one requires a deliberate choice not to use it (and likely a lot of effort spent to avoid doing so). Ie, a fortress could make its wealth by smithing fine weapons, weaving quality cloth, encrusting precious stones onto furniture, or crafting quality trinkets. Or all of those. But it doesn't have a compelling reason to do any one in particular. A fortress that never designates a tile for mining, however, requires exceptional effort to achieve.

But that you can avoid even something as basic as mining *for the lifetime of your fortress* means there is no universal design constraint on which skills to start with. Ultimately the answer to "What skills do I need?" is "Whichever ''you'' want". Choosing a mixture of these commonly used skills and your desired specialized skills will make starting up your fortress easier and more efficient, but you don't need to start with any of them. Choosing to avoid some skills may force you to use some others, but nothing compels you to invest in any skill in particular.

A common skill list (Just as a general quick start):
2 Miners
1 Woodcutter
1 Grower/Cook
1 Grower/Brewer
1 Carpenter
1 Mason

This is not the be all end all of course, it all depends upon your location, your goals, and what you consider fun.

==== Balancing military and economic needs ====

Not all embarks will require a military presence in the first year, but anyone planning an expedition to a sinister, haunted, or terrifying biome would be foolish not to be prepared for nasty dwarf-killing creatures. The solution doesn't strictly need to be military skills; quick delving and a skilled mechanic may be sufficient; but starting with a military dwarf will give you the earliest possible protection and a lot more versatility in where that protection can be applied. Whatever you choose to do, understand the risk and be prepared for it.

==== Training considerations ====

Some skills are harder to gain experience in than others - requiring valuable resources or taking an extended period of time, and thus inconvenient to train from the ground up. Investing in some of these extensively in your initial dwarves can make those industries much less painful to start. For example, metal-related skills generally eat metal bars, and thus the less time you spend training metal workers up to a decent level, the faster they'll be churning out high-quality items for you, and the fewer bars they'll waste becoming skilled. On the other hand, despite its importance, skills like mining train relatively quickly and barring extenuating circumstances (expected need to accomplish particular digging projects in the first month or you'll get mauled by a Giant for example) there's little need to actually invest your starting skills in it - they can learn on the job.

==== Quality, value, and happiness ====

{{l|Quality}} is an important part of Dwarf Fortress. Higher quality items produce better and more frequent happy thoughts and are worth more money. Valuable commodities will trade for more goods from caravans that visit. When choosing skills that produce objects of quality, the desire to produce valuable goods for trade will often conflict with the desire to produce objects that will make your dwarves happy. Built items that are frequently encountered tend to be things like furniture, especially beds, which tend to have low material values and thus low total value no matter how high the quality of the work. Further, these things tend to be inconvenient to trade. It is often best to strike a balance between dwarves who produce valuable trade goods and dwarves who produce quality items that will make your population happy - and thus be able to achieve both goals simultaneously.

Its worth noting that built furniture and worn clothing counts its value twice, once under the appropriate category and once for displayed value. If you're trying to maximize your created wealth total, a good metalsmith producing furniture from high-value metals is optimal. A mason or stonecrafter can also build furniture from ore such as gold nuggets, if these are enabled in the stocks screen, presently there is no disadvantage in doing so as the furniture is just as valuable as if it had been made by a metalsmith from metal bars.

==== Moodable skills ====

{{l|Strange mood}}s will create a Legendary skill of the "moodable" skill with the highest level, and moods take hold of dwarves with different professions at different rates. Some skills are "moodable" where others are not. You might choose to take certain skills solely because it opens up moods for that skill with that dwarf. Some moodable skills are more valuable than others - a legendary weaponsmith is both valuable and useful. A legendary tanner is generally a waste of a mood since tanned hides have no quality.

Because a dwarf can only have a strange mood in one skill, pairing a moodable skill with a non-moodable skill can protect the moodable skill and ensure that if the dwarf has a mood it will be in the skill you desire. See the section on combining skills below for more details on ways to pair skills.

Dwarves with no moodable skill can be allowed to do one task using a moodable skill to give them a moodable skill with no starting build investment, so moodable skill considerations should not be considered a primary reason to choose particular skills - you should also want to make use of them for other reasons.

==== Combining Skills ====
Every dwarf is going to have 2 or more {{l|skills}}. This means that even once you know which skills you want, you're going to need to pair them up before assigning them. Not all skill combinations are equally functional.

Some skills are highly time-consuming, either because the skill is in frequent demand (eg, {{l|mining}}) or because it takes a long time to do an individual job (eg, {{l|strand extraction}}). If a dwarf is spending most of their time using that skill, they aren't making much use of their other skill. Pairing two time-consuming skills together therefore tends to be a bad idea, as one or both jobs are not going to get the attention they need or deserve. Similarly, pairing a skill with time-critical jobs with a time-consuming skill also tends to be a bad idea. If your {{l|grower}} is also mining, he may not stop to plant crops one season. Or he might neglect to harvest your crops in a timely fashion and they could rot on the ground (if you only let your growers harvest). Arranging your skill combinations to avoid these situations is generally beneficial. For example, Masons, miners, growers, and any craft that your fortress will base their economy off of (glass, stonecrafts, armour, etc) will take a lot of time, so plan accordingly.

Instead, pairing relatively time-intensive tasks with less time-intensive tasks will let your dwarf accomplish all such tasks adequately. Once you get a metal industry rolling, an armorer/weaponsmith will need to make a lot fewer weapons to outfit your soldiers than he will armor components. Thus he can usefully do both jobs without hurting your productivity overly much. Similarly, a mason might also be your architect, since building designer is a very infrequently used skill.

Working at different jobs levels up specific {{l|attribute}}s. One could level up a miner until he becomes mighty and ultra-tough - and then turn him into a soldier, or retire him to haul stone. If you plan on doing so, it may not be a good idea to give this guy a second critical job that will demand a lot of time away from their focus.

Since tasks will take place in specific areas, another approach is to combine tasks into dwarves who will take care of a specific industry, or spend all their time in one generally narrow part of the fortress - the forges, or the kitchens, or outdoors, for instance. So combining Farming with cooking, rather than mining, for example, and turn on only Haul Food, not Haul Stone. Metalworkers spending their time in the forge can easily handle more than one type of metalworking skill, and are also well-situated to be furnace operators.

Similarly, you can also make the craftsmen of your finished products also responsible for the production of intermediate products from raw ingredients. This way when they run out of materials to make into finished goods they can immediately switch over to working raw products into intermediate products so they'll have more to work with later. This works better in some industries than in others. A single butcher/tanner/cook trying to process multiple animals simultaneously will likely result in rotten food, carcases, or skins. But a weaponsmith who doubles as a furnace operator can usefully ensure he has material to work with when you want him to. Later on, however, a highly skilled craftsdwarf is often better suited at sitting in their {{l|workshop}} and having others deliver raw materials to them than going out and obtaining their own raw materials themselves, but in the early game dwarf-time is limited, and a single dwarf who can work an entire production chain can do so relatively efficiently and let your other dwarves be used elsewhere.

There is no requirement that a dwarves job combination needs to look 'right' or logical. A weaponsmith will most probably not spend nearly 100% of their time creating weapons - what they do with the other part of their time may have nothing at all to do with forges or smithing. Jobs which require little time in general, or little time early even if time-intensive later, may well be paired with any time-intensive task solely to provide the dwarf with something to usefully and skillfully do with most of their time, and freed from that duty as needed for the other tasks.

Another constraint you can impose on your skill combinations is to try to limit dwarves to {{l|moodable}} skill and one non-moodable skill (or a moodable and a less desired moodable skill at lower level), so any mood will improve the desired one. For example, pairing craft skills with farming skills gives you dwarves that will perform useful food production or raw good processing services while also getting their mood in a valuable finished goods skill. Example: Clothier/Grower.

==== Which dwarf should have which skill? ====
Dwarves who craft goods they prefer, or work materials they prefer, gain a bonus to the quality of the finished work. This can inform your choice of which skills you choose, for example by choosing a weaver because you notice a preference for sheep wool yarn, or you might choose the skills you want and then try to find a suitable dwarf to use that skill. In the latter case, since all dwarves have one metal preference you might assign an armorsmithing skill to a dwarf with a preference for iron, steel, or adamantine.

The dwarf with the most social skills will end up being the {{l|Expedition leader}}, who will then become the {{l|mayor}} and start making {{l|mandate}}s. Thus you should avoid giving the most social skills to dwarfs who have {{l|preferences}} for things like {{l|adamantine}}.

Dwarves have physical and mental attributes that affect the performance of certain skills. You may wish to give a socially adept and patient dwarf the leadership/broker skills, or a dwarf who doesn't tire easily a skill which will be in frequent use like mining. You can also try to match skills to {{l|personality}}, some of which have obvious implications for their willingness to work long hours or how frequently they might take breaks.

Of course, all combined these represent a lot of possible constraints on where you assign particular skills, and it would be impossible to apply them in total to your entire desired skill load. Use these as a guide, but don't be upset if all your dwarves are anti-social psychopaths - someone still needs to be the leader, after all.

==== Other considerations ====
Migrants can and will arrive with a wide selection of decently trained skills. While it is a gamble, chances are pretty decent that migrants will arrive with a highly trained skill that is also highly desirable and would usurp the job of one of the seven starting ones. The first few migration waves are likely to give you a much better talent pool than what you can assign at embark. On the other hand, you may never get the skill you really want if you don't start with it.

Skills atrophy if not used (they are marked "rusty" and later "very rusty"), and they can eventually decrease in level. Consider that skills which you will use years after embark are going to be rusty or even deleveled. Embark to the first caravan is long enough for a skill to start rusting, so you might want to make sure you'll use every skill you embark with before the first year ends to avoid catastrophic rusting.

Remember that you need to survive in order to accomplish any goals. Have a plan for lasting to at least the first caravan, if not one for longterm sustainability.

== Items ==

The items you choose to bring with you will need to satisfy a number of needs. Most importantly, you need to keep yourself alive - at least until the caravan arrives in the fall to resupply yourself. You probably also want to plan on some way of making a shelter, whether that be the traditional delved hall, a majestic castle, a log cabin, or something even more exotic. You may want to plan for mishaps by bringing essential medical supplies, especially those which may be hard to acquire on site. And you might bring items which will assist in creating items for trade to that first caravan, should you need anything for the skills you're planning on.

For the purposes of this article, livestock are considered items.

All embarks get the following items without paying for them: 2 animals (who pulled the wagon), and the 3 wood that make up the wagon.

=== Motivations ===

==== Survival ====

A single dwarf eats about 2x/season, and drinks about 4x/season. With 7 dwarves that's ~approximately~ 14 meals per season and 28 alcohol per season, or ~42 meals and ~84 alcohol until the end of Fall. The dwarf caravan tends to arrive in the third month of fall, so you will probably need to plan on a full 3 seasons. You are also likely to get at least one if not two small waves of migrants before the caravan arrives.

It is possible to bring enough food and drink to make it to the caravan - indeed, bringing enough food isn't especially hard (especially once you factor in slaughtering the animals who hauled your wagon. Bringing sufficient alcohol is harder, although bringing plump helmets to brew can significantly cut the cost.

The likely best way to keep your dwarves in drink is also the most labor intensive - setting up farming in the first season or two is perfectly plausible, allowing to grow your own {{l|plants}} from seeds and brew the products. (Keep in mind not all plants can be brewed - don't plant dimple cups and expect to make alcohol). In addition to the necessary seeds, starting your own farming operation is going to require either some {{L|soil}} or {{L|irrigation|some way to get the ground muddy}}. While sometimes simple digging can accomplish this, many times you're going to need a screw pump. Basic construction requirements are discussed under shelter.

It is possible to make all your alcohol by harvesting aboveground plants, if highly inefficient. It also only works in biomes with collectable plant life. Notably evil biomes and glaciers are unlikely to provide.

==== Shelter ====
Bar a convenient cave, you're going to have to do something for shelter. Shelter is your first defense against roving creatures, keeping them away from where your dwarves are working so they don't spam job cancellations and strew items all over the place. (As you might guess, most 'convenient caves' aren't actually that convenient, as they tend to have residents). Basic walls that allow you egress won't stop a dedicated invader, but you don't expect to see those until year 3, so you have time to develop more elaborate defenses.

Food outside will also spoil a lot faster than food inside, so making a cellar of some sort to store your food in will increase the longevity of your food supplies. The rate at which food spoils depends on ambient temperature, so the urgency of making a cellar will depend on where you settled. It might be possible to go without a cellar in a freezing biome.{{verify}} The only way you can avoid thinking about food storage in the first year is if you collect food and make alcohol as needed - ie, by using an herbalist to collect local plants - which can avoid needing to mine at all.

Delving a shelter requires mining, which means having picks to dig with. One can always bring one or more picks at embark, but its also possible to bring the supplies necessary to make them. See {{l|Starting build#Finished product or do it yourself|finished product or do it yourself}}.

An aboveground shelter can be made with stone or wood or possibly more exotic materials. Stone of course requires mining, and thus picks. Wood can be had with an axe assuming trees are present, and axes, like picks, can similarly be brought at embark or made on site. It is of course possible to bring sufficient raw materials to build walls with, but this is far less efficient than just bringing a pick or an axe, although it could make a fun challenge. Building your initial fort out of soap, while possible, is not recommended, although possibly hilariously entertaining.

==== Industry ====
Most industries require little more than materials you can collect at the site and a workshop. So long as you can get stone, you won't need to bring anything for these. However, if you want to get an industry going immediately, it does help to bring a few building materials along (or be willing to use the wood from the wagon, if only temporarily).

Some industries require fire-safe materials to build with. All stone qualifies, as does metal. Wood can be converted to a fire safe material by burning it to ashes in a wood burners workshop, but of course that workshop requires a fire-safe material. If you're mining, this condition is easy to satisfy, but if you intend to run any of these industries right away you will need to plan on bringing appropriate materials.

Some industries require plant or animal matter to work with. Clothiers ultimately need cloth, which comes from certain plants or animals. Leatherworkers need tanned skins. (And while you can get 2 off your pack animals, this isn't sufficient to run an industry). If you plan on running these types of industries you will need to have a plan for providing suitable raw materials. Hunting can cover leatherworking needs (although this requires a hunter and hunting implements), and foraging can find rope reed plants, but its usually better to bring enough appropriate animals or plant seeds to have a good shot at getting started in a predictable and sustainable way. Similarly, milking and cheese making require milkable animals, and bonecarving requires a dependable source of bones.

Metal industries require metal and an anvil. You cannot make an anvil on site without already having an anvil, so if you plan on doing any forging before the first caravan you will need to bring one with you. Metal can be brought as bars or as ores to be smelted in a smelter into bars, or can be mined yourself. You will need to provide fuel or magma to run these workshops, so bringing some coal can make the operation run smoother.

Soap requires a lot of wood consumption and a source of tallow to be done in a sustainable way. Lye can be bought at embark to skip the first steps and make soap more directly. You will still need to bring or make buckets and have an empty barrel to actually produce soap though, but fortunately this is just a matter of having sufficient wood.

Jewelers require gems. Cut gems can be brought at embark, but are too expensive to bring in quantity. Generally a jeweler requires mining to find sufficient gems or a glassworker to produce raw glass to work with.

Glassmaking and Pottery requires sand or clay and fuel - pay attention to your site report before embarking. Its hard to run a viable industry solely off imports in these cases. Like metal workshops, coal can be brought to substitute for fuel fairly efficiently.

As is probably obvious, certain industries depend on similar inputs. Planning on a set of industries which require similar complementary inputs can let you more efficiently spend your starting points at embark or more efficiently plan your digging during the first year. If you plan on a lot of fuel-dependent industries, it may be worthwhile to prioritize finding a source of magma.

=== Optimization ===

==== Container mechanics and free items ====

Many items come in containers such as barrels and bags, including food, liquids, seeds, and powders. The cost to embark with these items can be cheaper than the cost of the container itself. Each different type of item for each category will come in its own container. Furthermore, you'll get a new container after every 10th instance for food, most liquids, and seeds, and after every item of powders.{{verify}} Alcohol gets a new barrel after every 5th unit. (Food actually groups by animal type, so if you get horse tripe and horse meat they'll combine them, but they won't combine horse meat and donkey meat). Thus diversifying your initial food supply with 1 of each low-cost food item will net you a large number of barrels. Similarly, it is worth taking 1 of each seed you weren't planning on taking more of solely for the bags. Taking some sand or gypsum powder is also a cheap way to get bags. Lye (for soap) and milks can be brought for more barrels - and milk can be made into cheese for a low-cost embark option that becomes food.

As stockpiling and some jobs are container limited, getting as many free containers as you can will free up labor (and possibly valuable materials) that would otherwise be used making containers.

==== Finished product or do it yourself ====
Bringing raw materials and making the finished product yourself is often easier on your embark points than bringing the finished product. On the other hand, making it yourself takes time during which you aren't making use of the finished product.

The most common scenario involves {{l|Make your own weapons|forging your own metal tools and weapons}}. While not usually too much of a hardship, it can be dangerous to make your own weapons or picks if you expect possible hostile creatures. Furthermore, you will lose time - possibly 1/4 to 1/2 the first month - if you forge your own picks.

Of special note regarding weapons is that a training battle axe is perfectly capable of chopping trees, and is made with nothing more than a carpentry workshop and a log. While the delay in acquiring one is minimal, a wood battle axe is not a good weapon, and so it loses utility for doing anything other than acquiring more wood.

You can also easily plan on making all or most of one's own booze, as plump helmets can be bought at embark and brewed at a still.

Any finished good can of course be made from raw materials that you bring, but most of them are not essential like the above, and thus you can generally wait until you find suitable resources on site or buy them from caravans.

==== Biome considerations: dude, where's my wood? ====
Some environments have a shortage of trees. While you can direct production of a lot of item types to other materials, beds need to be made out of wood. In addition, it is difficult to make barrels and bins out of non-wood materials early in the game, especially without ready magma (since otherwise you'll probably need to burn wood to make metal equivalents). If you have an aquifer it can be even worse - stone may be difficult or impossible to access easily. While you can ultimately ask for wood from your liaison and buy whatever the humans and elves happen to bring, and eventually you can create a tree farm underground, tight wood will limit storage and sleeping arrangements for at least the first year if not longer. You may wish to plan accordingly if embarking in a site with sparse or no trees.

==== Items for moods ====
When a dwarf is taken by a {{l|strange mood}}, he often needs obscure material or he will go insane and die, possibly with severe consequences to an entire fortress. Bringing along some of the harder-to-find ores ({{l|cassiterite}}, {{l|sphalerite}}, {{l|bismuthinite}}, {{l|garnierite}}), and putting those aside, forbidding their use "just in case", is spending a few points on an insurance policy. Many players also choose to bring a few items like pig tail cloth and cave spider silk just in case.

Alternately, if you're otherwise being minimalistic on gear you're bringing you can choose to bring a few valuable components to try to maximize the value of mood items. That artifact animal trap will be worth a lot more if your woodcarver grabs a blue diamond instead of moss agate.

==== Free Equipment ====

Dwarves who start with the ambusher skill as their highest non-military non-social skill will get some leather {{l|armor}}, a crossbow, a quiver and a stack of 30 to 40 metal bolts for free.

Embarking in a biome where there's snow at the moment of embarkation seems to get the same clothing items dwarves which Ambusher get, though they will not necessarily be made of leather.{{verify}}

==Site considerations==
Each fortress {{l|location}} offers particular challenges and opportunities, and can make different demands on your starting build. Your starting build may need to be adjusted depending on the {{l|region}} your fort occupies, the specific vision you have of your fortress, and what it will take to {{l|losing|stay alive}} where you're going!

The differences include what {{l|biome}}s, {{l|region}}s and likely {{l|metal}}s are present in your chosen embark site.

=== General Surroundings ===
Simply put, if your {{l|surroundings}} are {{l|evil}} or {{l|savage}}, your dwarves have a higher risk of suddenly facing personal combat before they are safely behind their defenses. Consider bringing extra weaponry, in the form of axes, picks or crossbows (see {{l|Starting_builds#Free_Equipment|free equipment}}). Hand in hand with those, consider skill mixes that include {{l|axedwarf}}, {{l|mining}} (the skill used to wield a pick), {{l|marksdwarf}}, or {{l|wrestling}} (a solid unarmed-combat skill).

The same is true if you are embarking near an exposed magma vent or an open chasm - these features can be seen on the embark map, but it's impossible to tell if they are "open" to the surface or not, until you are there in person.

Be sure to include some source of {{l|water}} on the map, preferably running {{l|water}}. Water is (almost) essential for any fortress. In Cold and Freezing climates streams and {{l|lake}}s will often be frozen year-round and your dwarves may quickly die of exposure, in Hot climates {{l|murky pool}}s will dry up, and in Dry ones rain will only rarely re-fill them, if ever. Choose Temperate or tropical zones for an easier game.

===Aquifers===
If an {{l|aquifer}} is present in the first soil or stone layers (visible on the pre-embark menu), it may bar all access to {{l|stone}} and {{l|ore}} until you find a way through the water barrier. Consider bringing some stone for building, and ore for your first basic needs. This may be critical to getting your fortress running smoothly.

=== Mountains ===
Mountains often have abundant {{l|ore}}s, but at the loss of trees and plants. In previous versions lacking {{L|cavern}}s, this was a serious drawback. In DF2010, brave pioneers can dig down into the caverns to find essentials like water, mud, and plants. However, players should be aware that above-ground crops will not grow in mountain biomes, no matter how muddy you may make the surface.

Depending on the exact layers, it's common to find exposed {{l|vein}}s of useful {{l|ore}}s that can be immediately mined for {{l|Make your own weapons|DIY}} weapons and tools.

=== Wooded/Plains ===
Flatlands with at least some trees and gatherable plants can also make for highly successful fortresses. Advantages over mountain zones include abundant trees and plants and (unless frozen) more abundant water. There are even (rare) magma vents. More water also means a high likelihood of an {{l|aquifer}} being present. Make sure to check on embark.

The greatest disadvantage is the potential lack of exposed {{l|stone}} to mine. The first level(s) below the surface is often {{l|soil}} of some type, which offers no building materials. However, soil is mined much more quickly than stone (x3-x4 faster), and expansive accommodations (rooms) can be achieved quickly even by untrained miners. You will find stone, you just have to go down a bit for it - but that's what dwarves do, isn't it?

{{l|Experience|Training}} a {{l|Miner}} from No Skill to Proficient takes less than a month (~20 days with hauling disabled) in soil, and to Legendary in just under a season after. {{version|0.31.12}} From embark, this means you should have legendary miners in early summer if you dig only in soil. Times increase slightly for each additional miner used.

=== Oceanside ===
With many features in common with some of the above locations, {{l|beach}}es are often a mix of ease intermingled with bouts of extreme difficulty. Minerals and trees are often abundant, as well as farmland and sand, but there is often no drinking water unless the biome has a flowing {{l|water}} of some sort.

By definition, the settlement will fall between (at least) two {{l|biome}}s (one land, one water), potentially hazardous if the player expects a peaceful oceanside meadow, without realizing the {{l|terrifying}} ocean is full of amphibious zombie {{l|whale}}s.

=== Desert, Glaciers, and Barren ===
Treeless (or near-treeless) {{l|biome}}s are challenging sites for a fortress: you get most of the disadvantages of a flatland site without having access to nearly as many trees and plants. However, near-lifeless zones such as {{l|glacier}}s are wonderful for players with slower computers, as there's little to burden the CPU but your dwarves and livestock. {{l|Desert}}s and barren areas often have sand; with a sufficient source of energy (preferably magma), you can build almost anything out of unlimited glass.

Hunters should be replaced with fisherdwarves and a fish cleaner (although the latter can be easily trained). Depending how much water vs. land, more starting wood and ores might be helpful. Swimming is rarely useful in Fortress mode, even at the beach, and can be trained.

==Sample starting builds==
See {{l|Sample Starting Builds}}

{{Starting FAQ}}
{{Category|Guides}}
{{Category|Fortress mode}}

v0.31:Reservoir

2011-11-28T06:01:24Z

Nand:

{{quality|Fine|17:06, 10 August 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
{{Expand Topic}}
A '''reservoir''' or '''cistern''' is a type of player-built construction to contain {{l|water}} or {{l|magma}}. It is most useful to store the sparse water in scorching or freezing maps, or in any fortress as a means of ensuring a consistent water supply is maintained despite conditions of the surrounding {{l|biome}}.

Reservoirs are relatively basic in construction, consisting of {{l|wall}}s arranged in such a pattern as to form a closed container, complete with {{l|floor}}s and a {{l|floodgate}} in order to access the stored contents. Getting the desired contents from their place in the world to your reservoir is another thing entirely, something where {{l|mechanics}} will likely assist you.

Usually reservoirs are made refillable (obviously, because water in them will eventually run low) and therefore can be made autorefillable with pressure plates or refilled manually by levers. If the reservoir is used for drinking, it is highly recommended to disconnect the reservoir from the water source after filling in order to prevent the water from being contaminated or invaded by amphibious creatures (carving a {{l|fortification}} can help with {{l|building destroyer}}s).

Reservoirs are very useful to supply fortresses with water during cold seasons in temperate or cold climates. For example, a secured 20x25x1 underground reservoir can last for many years without needing to be refilled, even in a {{l|alcohol|sober}} fortress.

Reservoirs are essential structures in any fortress containing an {{l|ocean}} biome as pumping water through a {{l|screw pump}} into them is the only way to desalinate the water present, allowing {{l|dwarf|dwarves}} to actually use it. If desalinated water comes into contact with salty water, the entire reservoir will become permanently salty.

v0.31:Water

2011-11-28T05:56:10Z

Nand: /* Salt Water */

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional|19:08, 6 July 2010 (UTC)}}

'''Water''' is a fluid found all over the world. It {{l|flow|flows}} from mountain springs, forming the world's {{l|ocean}}s, {{l|lake}}s, {{l|river}}s, and {{l|brook}}s. Water falls as {{l|rain}} and {{l|snow}}, and freezes into {{l|ice}}. Water is home to a variety of {{l|aquatic creatures}}. Many creatures can {{l|Swimmer|swim}} in deep water. Air-breathing creatures that are submerged in water can {{l|Swimmer#Drowning|drown}} in it. Water comes in two varieties: '''freshwater''', which makes up almost all inland water, and '''saltwater''', which fills the seas. In this version, some brooks and murky pools can be saltwater even if the fortress site is partially mountainous. It is not known if this is a bug. To tell the difference, attempt to set up a drinking zone including some of the water in question. If there are zero tiles of water source available, the water is saltwater.

Mud is a {{l|contaminant}} which is created any time water covers an area. Any tiles that contain mud may be used for {{l|Agriculture|farming}}.

Water is displayed with the symbols {{Tile|≈|1:7:1}} and {{Tile|~|1:7:1}}, sometimes colored different blues, and white, showing ripples. Water can also take on other colors indicating {{l|contaminant|contaminants}} such as '''blood''', '''ichor''', or '''goo'''. (The game can be {{l|Technical tricks#The look of the game|configured}} to show the depth instead).

Dark-colored water symbols indicate the water is one {{l|Z-level}} below the camera level. Water has 7 depth levels per tile, with 1 being a shallow puddle, and 7 filling the tile completely. {{l|Dwarf|Dwarves}} can safely walk through water up to a depth of 4. Dwarves finding themselves in water at a depth of 5 or greater are at risk of drowning unless they are skilled at {{l|swimming}}.

Interestingly, water can slow falls with deep enough water and short enough falls. If the water is deep enough relative to the height of the fall, dwarves can be less injured or even completely uninjured (from a 4 level drop to a 3 level deep pool, for example)

==Evaporation==
Evaporation occurs when water or {{l|magma}} is at a depth of 1/7. Simply having 2/7 standing water is enough to prevent evaporation. Water or magma at 1/7 depth will even evaporate if it is on top of 7/7 depth water as shown in the example bellow.
{| style="border-spacing: 0"
|-
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|{{000}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{RT0|1|#00F}}
|{{CCC}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{RT0|7|#00F}}
|{{CCC}}
|-
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|{{CCC}}
|}
{{l|Murky pool|Murky pools}} are an exception. In '''hot''' or '''scorching''' environments a murky pool can evaporate even when it is completely full. Murky pools also generate water to simulate seasonal accumulation from rainfall. This sometimes makes it possible for a murky pool to replenish itself even when it has been completely drained.

==Freezing/Thawing==
Many environments get cold enough for water to freeze in winter. When this happens, any water that is exposed above ground will {{L|ice|freeze into ice}}. However, water a single tile away that is in an underground tunnel will not freeze. When ice walls thaw, they always leave a 7/7 water tile regardless of how much water may have been present when the ice formed.

When outdoor water freezes or thaws it does so instantly. Any dwarf {{L|swimming}} in water when it freezes will die, and any dwarf standing on a frozen pond will fall into it when it thaws, most probably leading to {{L|drown}}ing.

Mining ice can produce chunks of ice. Taking these chunks into a stone layer will cause it eventually melt, turning it into a "water" item (much like those hauled in {{L|bucket}}s) which can't be used for anything. {{Bug|360}}

{{L|Glacier#Cave-in_some ice_|Caving in an ice wall}} into a stone layer will cause it to instantly melt into water (provided it does not become exposed to the outdoors), which can be used to get water near the surface in a {{L|glacier}} biome without having to use a {{L|pump}} stack to pump water up from a {{L|cavern}} pool.

If you constructed a {{L|well}} or a {{L|Grate|floor grate}} right over top of water and it freezes, the item will be deconstructed to its original parts, but some may fall into the water.

==Flow==
Water and {{l|magma}} are both {{l|flow|fluids}} which are constantly trying to '''{{l|flow}}''' into adjacent tiles until they have filled all available space or until they run out of fluid. Fluids technically move in 9 directions: down, and to the sides. Fluids cannot move diagonally up or down. Fluids at a depth of 1/7 no longer attempt to move unless they can move down. Fluids under {{l|pressure}} can appear to travel upward until the pressure equalizes, though in reality they are moving downward and/or sideways relative to their source.

If the flow is strong enough, it can move objects such as dwarves, pets, stones, weapons or corpses.

Fluids in Dwarf Fortress act like a fairly thick, viscous material. This makes it possible to do highly implausible things like {{l|pump}} out a dry hole in the middle of a {{l|river}} or {{l|ocean}}.

==Sourced Water==
Water that comes from {{l|river}}s, {{l|brook}}s, {{l|ocean}}s, {{l|aquifer}}s or springs is considered to be '''sourced water'''. Any sourced water is an endless supply of water that can never run dry, although it can freeze for part of the year in colder biomes.

When using sourced water you should strongly consider installing {{l|floodgate}}s and be aware of how {{l|pressure}} works or you could easily end up {{l|flood}}ing your fortress and having a lot more {{l|fun}} than anticipated.

==Salt Water==
Dwarves can not use salt water until it has been desalinated; while healthy dwarves will usually prefer to drink {{L|booze}}, wounded dwarves can only be given water to drink.

To check to see if water is salty, use the {{k|i}} menu to see if the game shows the pond/pool as a water source. If the "water source (x)" is (0), then the source is salty. If not, then your dwarves will drink it.

A {{l|screw pump}} can be used to desalinate water, but if the fresh water produced ever contacts salty water, the "saltiness" will conduct through the entire body of water making the reservoir permanently salty, so be careful not to drain the fresh water into salty water (including salty aquifers). Note that once a tile is marked as salty, ''it cannot be reverted without external tools''.

Previously there was a myth that water would turn salty if it ever touched natural stone. This myth has been [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=95811 debunked], any cistern will work, except those dug into a beach, which may spontaneously turn salty (constructed cisterns on the beach are fine though).

The old 40d method of using a {{l|well}} to desalinate water still works in DF2010 -- sort of. Dwarves will drink water from a well over salt water, give it to sick dwarves and use it to clean wounds, but you cannot designate a well over salt water as a water source, and dwarves will receive unhappy thoughts, just like drinking stagnant water. However, they won't ''die of thirst'', so this is still a viable fallback until you can build a more proper cistern.

== Stagnant water ==

Water taken from a murky pool or wetlands biome will be stagnant, just as water taken from near the ocean will be salty. Dwarves get an unhappy {{L|thought}} if they have to drink stagnant water, and a {{L|doctor}} cleaning a {{L|wound}} with stagnant water will likely cause an {{L|Health care#Infection|infection}}.

{{L|Pump}}ing stagnant water will make it clean and, unlike with desalination, a {{L|reservoir|cistern}} in a wetlands biome doesn't have to be made entirely of constructed material. Moving water only via flow or with gravity won't clean it; pumping is required.

Note that the game will only ''describe'' stagnant water as stagnant if it's in a {{L|bucket}}; looking at standing or flowing water with {{K|k}} won't give any indication.

== Water laced with mud ==
If a water source is only one z-level deep and its floor is covered by "a pile of mud" (like most {{L|cavern|underground pools}}), then any water taken from it will be "water laced with mud". Drinking water laced with mud will give your dwarves an unhappy thought. It might also cause {{L|Health care#Infection|infection}} if used to clean a {{L|wound}}.

Unlike stagnant water, merely moving the water with flow or gravity will take care of the problem, since it only occurs if the water source tile contains "a pile of mud", and water coming into contact with a clean floor only creates "a dusting of mud".

==Contaminants==
Contaminants that get into water currently can do very strange things. A pool of blood that gets covered by water will be pushed out of the water as the water flows creating more pools of blood at the edge of the water. Overflowing a large reservoir that contains contaminants of blood will generate a large amount of blood very quickly. This behavior is thought to be a bug.

==Getting Rid of Unwanted Water==
Water will flow off the edge of the map, endlessly, which is one way to get rid of large amounts of water (evaporation works better with small amounts). Underground, there are at least two ways to accomplish this. One is to channel your excess water into a dry cavern that is open to the map edge, as the water will flow out (depending on slopes and such). The other, probably easier method, is to mine to the map edge (since you cannot mine the map edge itself, just up to it), then smooth the edge and then carve {{L|fortification}}s into it. Water will flow through the fortifications and off the edge of the map. Make sure your exit flow is equal to or, for safety, greater than your input. One approach that may not work well is to dump your excess water into an underground lake that is open to the map edge, as such lakes have some sort of equilibrium built into them, and your excess water can cause the lake to flood.

Draining lakes and oceans from underneath can be a finicky task, but there's a bit of dwarven magic for it: build a retractable bridge on the level beneath the sea bottom, with ramps directly underneath it. Link this to a lever to control the flow as you desire. Now evacuate the dwarves and wall off the area above the bridge. Then, with the bridge in place, designate ramps around the bridge leading up - breaking through to the sea bottom. Now how can the dwarves dig these squares out? Yep, from beneath the bridge. In this way they get the water flow started without ever getting their little feet wet. This is a great way to set up channels one square in from the map edge near a water source, so that you can properly wall off the baddies from getting into the fort.

{{gamedata|{{raw|DF2010:hardcoded_materials.txt|MATERIAL|WATER}}}}

{{Category|Physics}}

v0.31:Design strategies

2011-11-28T03:21:28Z

Nand: /* Productivity */

{{quality|Exceptional|02:53, 3 May 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}

There are many factors to consider when designing your fort.
* '''Security:''' Every fort needs some basic security measures. Otherwise you won't survive the first {{l|elephant}} attack, much less a full-blown {{l|Siege|goblin siege}}.
* '''Productivity:''' Proper placement of workshops and stockpiles can have a huge effect on productivity.
* '''Efficiency:''' Whether hauling rocks, making a booze run, or just checking the contents of a cabinet, dwarves do a lot of walking. A good fortress layout can significantly reduce the time your dwarves spend walking.
* '''Aesthetics:''' Hey - everybody wants a fortress that looks good.

In addition to the considerations above, it's also important to remember that long-term design strategies can easily be disrupted by the discovery of underground terrain features. Don't plan ''too'' far ahead, as you might need to adapt to unforeseen obstacles.

Also, there are several [[Blueprint Library|design idioms]] of common usage like [[Pump stack]].

==Security==
Everyone will have their own preferences regarding fortress defense and how to deal with undead, wildlife, hostiles and goblin invaders. Regardless of specifics, it's important to have a plan for dealing with the several different types of inevitable attacks. A few security tips are given below.

===Lockdown===
Have a way to lock down your fortress. In the event of an attack by hostiles you can't handle, you need a way to lock them out. This can buy you some time while your dwarves prepare their defenses.

For small forts, this could be as simple as placing {{l|door}}s at all the entrances to your fort. Doors can be locked instantly in an emergency. Don't rely on doors alone for security, though, as you'll eventually encounter enemies that can break down doors and pick locks.

For more security, place {{l|Bridge|drawbridges}} at all the entrances. You don't need a moat, the bridge itself is sufficient since it functions as a wall when closed. Just be sure to connect it to a {{l|lever}} that your dwarves can access quickly ''and safely'' in an emergency. Unfortunately, even drawbridges can be rendered inoperable in rare circumstances...

Finally, don't forget about attackers from above and below! Flying attackers might use skylights to bypass your doors and drawbridges.

===Scouts===
Ambushes and thieves can sneak up on your fortress. A party of goblin archers might sneak past your main gate before being spotted, or a kobold could make off with your masterpiece crafts when nobody is looking. The way to avoid these unfortunate events is to use scouts / lookouts.

For small forts, effective scouting could be as simple as {{l|Restraint|tying}} a {{l|Dog|war dog}} (or even a donkey) up near the entrance of your fort. In the event of an ambush the animal will spot the attackers (shortly before dying). If your scouts are far enough from your main gate then you ought to have enough warning to lock down the fort, activate the militia, etc...

When designing your fort, just give some thought to the placement of scouts and be sure to leave room for them.

===Caravan security===
Is your trade depot going to be inside or outside your main line of defenses? This is another factor to consider when designing your fort. Although you don't have to protect the traders, their {{l|civilization}}s might hold your fortress responsible for any casualties.

===Traps===
{{l|Trap}}s are a great way to protect your fort from small groups of attackers. When designing your fort, think about where you want to place traps. Choke points at major entrances (including entrances to the {{l|caverns}}) make good trap locations. Also, be warned that some enemies are immune to traps...

===Staging area===
Many players like to design their forts with a militia staging area at the main entrance. Usually this includes placing {{l|fortification}}s (possibly in archer towers), ammunition stockpiles, and cover for your melee dwarves to protect them from approaching archers.

Some players also like to place a {{l|Barracks|training barracks}} near the entrance to the fort so that the militia can quickly respond to attackers.

==Productivity==

Proper placement of {{l|stockpile}}s is the key to productivity. Almost every workshop job needs raw materials. Is your {{l|still}} near some empty barrels and plants? Does your mason have easy access to stone? A smelter must have quick access to both ore and fuel.

As a general rule of thumb, each workshop should have at least a 3x3 stockpile area associated with it. Some workshops will need more if multiple raw ingredients are needed. An efficient arrangement is to place output stockpiles directly above or below your workshops and connect them with stairs. If you can spare the space, you can carve out a 5x5 room and place the 3x3 workshop in the center, leaving 16 surrounding tiles for input storage.

When utilizing a large storage stockpile, for food or wood for example, the optimal approach is to place a small stockpile next to the workshop and have the small stockpile "take" from the large stockpile.

==Efficiency==
There are a few things to consider for basic fortress efficiency:
* Major hallways should be at least two tiles wide, maybe even three tiles. Otherwise your dwarves will be constantly running into each other and productivity will be slowed.
* To reduce the amount of time that your dwarves spend walking, common areas should be placed near the center of your fort. Dwarves drink frequently. They also like to throw parties. It's a good idea to store your booze in a centralized location, and to designate a {{l|meeting hall}} in a similarly centralized place.
* An efficient fortress must make good use of all three dimensions. A dwarf climbs or descends one {{l|z-level}} in the same time it takes to move one step horizontally, so, for example, when you need to build more bedrooms, it can be a lot more efficient to dig down one level than to place the new rooms 20 tiles farther from the center of your fortress.
* Moving one step diagonally takes about 1.4 times longer than moving one step orthogonally. This matches the real world, where Pythagoras tells us that it should take about √2 (1.414) times longer. You can optimize floor plans for pathfinding by adopting more circular shapes into your design.
* With the new {{L|burrow}} functionality, it is possible to segregate some dwarves to being permanently in their area, so that they never try to take a task half-way across the map, or haul items a long distance through high-volume corridors. For example, your garbagedwarves can be told to use only service halls, defined by burrows that cover all but the main hallways, and they will then use those back halls to take trash to the dump. Make sure you understand burrows before attempting this - if there is no source of food or drink in the burrows a dwarf is restricted to, they will die!

==Aesthetics==
Aesthetics are completely subjective, of course, but it's still something you may want to consider when designing your fort.
* Use symmetry when possible.
* Conform to either mostly organic shapes or mostly inorganic shapes. A mixture probably won't look very good.
* Prefer digging in stone rather than {{l|soil}}. Although digging in stone is slower and messier, stone can eventually be smoothed and engraved. Soil, on the other hand, is ugly and much less dwarfy.
* Use stockpile settings to consistently build your furniture from a single type of stone. Bedrooms tend to look nicer when the furniture is uniform.
* ...unless you like lots of color and variety, in which case use the stockpile and workshop settings to make sure your dwarves use lots of different materials.

== Further Reading ==
For an in-depth examination of topics relating to fortress layout, these pages focus on specific aspects, mostly with an eye to improving survivability.
* [[Defense guide]]
* [[Security design]]
* [[Trap design]]
* [[Military design]] (not related to architecture, but useful nonetheless)

{{Category|Guides}}

v0.31:Sample Starting Builds

2011-11-27T10:17:15Z

Nand: /* The Warriors */

The following are sample starting builds provided by users. They may be as specific as full skill and item specifications with a file that you can copy and paste to use yourself, or as general as suggestions on how you might set up your starting build.

===Ashery===
*Military: 5 armor use, 5 dodge. Possibly a mix of dodge and shield use instead of max dodge, but that's up in the air. Set to start training the moment goods are hauled inside the fort's entrance. Also does woodcutting as needed.
*Doctor/Leader: 1 appraise, 2 diagnose, 2 bone doctor, 2 surgeon, 2 wound dresser, 1 suture. Also serves as one of my primary miners and, once replacement miners come, the fort's first bookkeeper as well.
*Farmer/Cook: 4 farming, 5 cooking, 1 armorsmith. Does most of the early hauling grunt work, but eventually is restricted only to food related activities. No mining is done in order to keep armorsmithing as the highest moodable skill.
*Farmer/Brewer: 4 farming, 5 brewing, 1 armorsmith. Same as the cook.
*Weapon/Armorsmith: 5 armorsmith, 5 weaponsmith. Does a sizable amount of the early mining, but is removed from duty before the mining skill gets too high.
*Mason: 5 mason, 5 building design. Can help out with mining if necessary, but is usually busy constructing buildings or helping the farmers haul goods.
*Carpenter/Mechanic: 5 carpentry, 5 mechanic. An odd mix, but mechanisms are my primary export.

===Tarran===
*(every skill has five points put into it)
*2 miners/engravers (when they are not mining they are engraving)
*1 mason/carpenter (deals with all that stuff)
*1 mechanic/stonecrafter (when he is not making mechanisms he is making crafts)
*1 woodcutter/architect (when not cutting wood he is designing buildings)
*1 grower/brewer (deals with all my needs this early in the game)
*1 adequate armorsmith, weaponsmith, and metalcrafter. novice furnace operator, and wood burner (remove wood burner if you have magma)

===Ancient Enemy===
*Leader with all his points distributed through negotiation/bookkeeper/appraiser/etc.
*3 dwarves with proficient mining
*1 proficient grower
*1 proficient brewer
*1 proficient cook

===Proteus===
*Leader/Miner: 6-7 points into things important to become leader and broker (appraisal, negotiation, judge of intent, organizing and others, all at least with 1 pt), rest into mining
*Doc/Recordkeeper +at least another productive job: 1-2pts into diagnostics, 1pt in each other medical skill, 1pt in recordkeeping, rest into 1-2 jobs
*Cook: 4-5pts in cooking, 2-4pts in brewing, rest in fish cleaning and butchery
*Farmer: around 3-4pts in Growing, at least 1pt in milling, plant processing and brewing
*Crafter: Usually 5pts in stone crafting, rest in other crafting jobs (although that might change, as now bone carving has become next to worthless)
*Clothier: 2-4pts in leatherworking and clothier, rest into weaving and tanning
*Builder: Most of his points into Masonry, Engraving and Mechanics, as well as a few points into Carpenter (if no other dwarf already has pts in this job)

===Cronus===
*Miners/Mechanics: 2 dwarves with max points in mining and mechanics; get the fort, then those traps, up quickly.
*Woodcutter/Carpenter: points in woodcutting and carpentry; chop during initial dig then start pumping out beds and barrels
*Farmer/Brewer: points in farming and brewing; get the wheat and helmets in and brew during the off-season. Can also serve as butcher in a pinch.
*Crafter: points dispersed into stonecrafting, bonecarving, weaving, and leatherworking.
*Mason/Architect: points into masonry and building design. Allows a focus on walls, doors, and bridges.
*Leader/Trader: spread points among appraisal, negotiator, conversationalist, consoler, and comedian.

===Jake Grey===
* The Hunter: Ambusher, Marksdwarf, Hammerdwarf, Shield/Armour User, Dodger. Number two source of protein and useful military backup.
* The Catering Team: One Grower/Butcher/Fish Cleaner/Tanner and one Grower/Cook/Brewer/Plant Gatherer/Thresher. Usually get the Record Keeper and Appraiser points as well, since they have probably the safest jobs, and some points in mining to get things dug faster.
* The Artisans: One Carpenter/Woodcutter/Bone Carver, one Miner/Mason/Stone Crafter/Architect and one Miner/Metalsmith/Weaponsmith/Armoursmith/Furnace Operator. The blacksmith usually gets the Organiser points, as I don't embark with an anvil.
* "Dr Fisher": Adequate Diagnostician, Wound Dresser, Suturer, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Novice Fisherdwarf. The world's happiest on-call GP, feeds the fortress almost single-handed while waiting for someone to get injured.

===The Stoners===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts when needed)
*Miner/Mechanic (mines and makes levers or traps when needed)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all the furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Woodcutter (cuts wood, makes beds, bins, barrels, and cages if needed)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Grower/Brewer (farms, makes booze, and does most of the hauling early)
*Grower/Cook (farms, cooks food, and does most of the hauling early)

Supplies:
*2 Picks
*1 Battleaxe
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*5-10 of each seed
*Spend the rest of the points on anything else you want like plump helmets, animals, wood, and ores. Taking copper ores (malachite/copper nuggets) and tin ores (cassiterite) are a good choice since using them to make bronze is very cheap at 6 points per ore.

Notes:
*After hauling your wagon supplies indoors, have your smith work nonstop making fuel, smelting ores, and making weapons/armor. By the time your first migrants arrive you should have a full set of armor and a weapon for each. If not have the migrants help the smith out with smelting. Then draft them. By starting training early and having good gear your militia should do well.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts and any extra goods you have lying around like plump helmet roasts for example.

===Gemcutters===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts when needed)
*Miner/Gem Cutter (mines and cuts gems)
*Miner/Gem Setter (mines and encrusts gems into crafts and furniture)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Mechanic (makes beds, bins, barrels, cages, levers, and traps)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Farmer/Brewer (hauls early on until you hit the caverns, then will farm and brew)

Supplies:
*3 Picks
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 meat/fish/eggs
*15 plump helmets
*5 of each seed
*50 or so logs
*spend the rest on whatever else you want like animals and ores.

Notes:
*This is basically a variation of "The Stoners" build above, except modified to be used on a glacier type embark. The woodcutter is useless on glaciers so tons of wood is brought instead. The 2nd farmer is replaced with a 3rd miner in order to help find the caverns before your food runs out.
*Once you hit the caverns you can start farming on the mud. Be sure you draft your first few migrants and supply them with good gear using your smith; in order to defend yourself from anything that may be down there.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts/mugs encrusted with any gems you find.

===The Warriors ===
The Dwarves:
*1 Miner (No secondary skill, he does all mining, all the time)
*1 Carpenter/Mechanic
*1 Mason/Brewer
*1 Herbalist/Farmer
*1 Axeman/Armor User
*1 Spearman/Dodger
*1 Swordman/Shield User

The Supplies:
*1 copper pick.
*6 Iron Ore, 6 Flux Stone (For making steel weapons and helmets)
*5 Magma safe stone (for first workshops)
*15 Logs
*15 Leather
*5 Lye (For soapmaking)
*Remaining points go to bronze-making supplies and/or steel making supplies and coal (or more logs).

Notes:
* The warriors are immediately set to forging their own gear, then quickly set to training. If you like ditch the mason/brewer and replace with a 4th warrior for 2 squads of 2 (maximum training speed). Herbalist provides brewing and food (hint: cook the seeds) until the warriors can hunt. This setup is also ideal for piercing aquifers, since it is well-adapted to life on the surface, and the warriors can double as pump-operators.

===The Mining Guild===

The Dwarves:
*7 Proficient Miners

Supplies:
*7 Copper Picks
*100 Booze (25 of each type)
*100 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*25 Plump Helmets
*7 Logs

Notes:
*Seven miners to dig out your entire fort straight from the start with enough food/booze to last you a year or two. Let migrants fill the other roles your fortress will require.
*Don't bother hauling all these supplies. Just build a wall around your wagon site and make it accessible via a staircase underground.
*Use the 7 logs + the 3 from the wagon to make a cheap dormitory until a good carpenter migrates to you. Also make a small dining room so dwarves stop complaining.
*Plump Helmets are to be used for emergency booze only, not eaten. Keep them forbidden until enough barrels become empty.
*Now dig, dig EVERYTHING. Two hundred bedrooms, noble quarters, grand dining room, massive workshop floors, massive stockpile floors, magma smelting floors, massive tree farms, barracks, hospitals, wells, crypts, trap corridors, etc etc.

=== BillyBob and the Rock Nuts ===
{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="5"
!Profession
!Skills
|-
|FarmerBrewer
|Grower-5, Brewer-5
|-
|MinerMason
|Mining-5, Masonry-2, Engraving-3
|-
|MinerJeweller
|Mining-5, Masonry-1, GemCutting-4
|-
|LumberjackHerbalist
|Woodcutting-4,Herbalism-3, Axedwarf, Armor, Carpentry
|-
|CookDoctor
|Cook-3, Threshing-2, Diagnose, DressWounds, Suture, SetBones, Surgery
|-
|CarpenterLeader
|Carpentry-4, Leadership-3, Negotiate, Appraisal, Record Keeper
|-
|CrafterArchitect
|Stonecraft-5, Building Designer-4, Mechanic
|}
The lumberjack is the only one that _has_ to go outside, and all the rest can work indoors. Two main sources of income are farming (Sweet Pods->Dwarven Syrup) and Rock Crafting (to buy elven wood/barrels).

<pre>
[PROFILE]
[TITLE:BillyBob and the Rock Nuts]
[SKILL:1:MINING:5]
[SKILL:1:DETAILSTONE:3]
[SKILL:1:MASONRY:2]
[SKILL:2:MINING:5]
[SKILL:2:MASONRY:1]
[SKILL:2:CUTGEM:4]
[SKILL:3:WOODCUTTING:4]
[SKILL:3:CARPENTRY:1]
[SKILL:3:HERBALISM:3]
[SKILL:3:AXE:1]
[SKILL:3:ARMOR:1]
[SKILL:4:CARPENTRY:4]
[SKILL:4:NEGOTIATION:1]
[SKILL:4:APPRAISAL:1]
[SKILL:4:RECORD_KEEPING:1]
[SKILL:4:LEADERSHIP:3]
[SKILL:5:BREWING:5]
[SKILL:5:PLANT:5]
[SKILL:6:PROCESSPLANTS:2]
[SKILL:6:COOK:3]
[SKILL:6:DRESS_WOUNDS:1]
[SKILL:6:DIAGNOSE:1]
[SKILL:6:SURGERY:1]
[SKILL:6:SET_BONE:1]
[SKILL:6:SUTURE:1]
[SKILL:7:STONECRAFT:5]
[SKILL:7:MECHANICS:1]
[SKILL:7:DESIGNBUILDING:4]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_PICK:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_AXE_BATTLE:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:1:ANVIL:NONE:INORGANIC:IRON]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_WHEAT_CAVE:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:DRINK]
[ITEM:5:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:SEED]
[ITEM:12:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:SEED]
[ITEM:11:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:POD_SWEET:SEED]
[ITEM:11:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:MARMOT_HOARY:STOMACH]
[ITEM:11:PLANT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:STRUCTURAL]
[ITEM:1:THREAD:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:1:CLOTH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BOX:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:2:CHAIN:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BUCKET:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:SPLINT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:CRUTCH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:15:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:WARTHOG:MUSCLE]
[PET:2:DOG:FEMALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:1:DOG:MALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:2:CAT:FEMALE:STANDARD]
[PET:1:CAT:MALE:STANDARD]
</pre>

===Tatter's Ragtime Band===

Designed to pair important time-consuming skills with important but quickly completed skills, moodable skills with non-moodable skills, and generally embark only with skills that can't be trained from "unskilled" quickly (for example, no mining skills). Tailored to minimize bugs in versions 31.12.
*Boss: 5 points in Armor User, 1 point in Appraiser, Negotiator, Judge of Intent, Record Keeper, and Organizer. Will be your chief miner, militia commander, and all-around noble early on, and almost certainly will become expedition leader as well. As other dwarves arrive with mining and/or noble skills (even if they aren't as high-level as the Boss's), replace the Boss with them as soon as possible, to relieve his workload. Keep the Boss as your militia commander and broker, mining mostly to train his skill with a pick, until a dwarf with better skills for these tasks arrives. If you embark with dogs, give the Boss the Animal Trainer labor as well and have him train them into War Dogs for extra protection. Note: As of 31.12, training seems to finally be working as intended, making axe/sword/hammer/spear dwarves feasable. Swap the Armor User with any other weapon skills if you like, but Armor User seems to be the slowest skill to develop, and I personally prefer to stick with it for the Boss. Plus, picks being pretty crummy weapons will help if you decide to make a Sherrif or Captain of the Guard with poor weapon skills so punishing "crime" won't result in undue maiming. (Moodable skill: Mining)
*Doc: 5 points in Carpentry, 1 point in Diagnostician, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Suturer, and Wound Dresser. A doctor that can make his own beds, splints, and crutches (and tables and cabinets, if you have an excess of wood). Make him Chief Medical Dwarf right away, but replace him as soon as a better Diagnostician comes along. Make him a Plant Gatherer and Wood Cutter as well (until immigrants with better skills arrive), to give him something to do when he has nothing to build and nobody to heal. (Moodable skill: Carpentry)
*Rock Farmer: 5 points in Grower, 5 points in Gem Cutting. Farming is more difficult to set up than it used to be, but no less time consuming. Gem Cutting takes little time and provides the fortress with the highest-value, lowest-weight trade items you're likely to find early on. You can also make him a Plant Processor and/or Miller if you need the materials for emergency mood satisfaction and/or cooking, but these skills should be provided at higher levels by immigrants fairly quickly, and cloth isn't critical for an early fortress (hunt and butcher wildlife with your militia instead, and make bags/clothes out of leather). Give him the Mining labor at least, though, as all dwarves who aren't Wood Cutting or Hunting should be available as backup miners and emergency militia. (Moodable skill: Gem Cutting)
*Embalmer: 5 points in Brewing, 5 points in Leatherworking. Makes leather bags and armor early in the game, alcohol later. Assign him the Tanner and Butcher labors as well, until immigrants with better skills arrive, and the Miner labor, for the reasons stated above. (Moodable skill: Leatherworker)
*Iron Chef: 5 points in Cooking, 5 points in Weaponsmithing. Makes the steel when he isn't making a meal. Assign him the Furnace Operator and Wood Burner labors, until immigrants with better skills arrive, so he can make the raw materials of his craft, and the Miner labor on general principles. If you're unlucky with immigrants, or determined to make additional forges or metal armor right away, you can give him the Armorer and Blacksmith labors as well. (Moodable skill: Weaponsmith)
*Architect: 5 points in Mason, 5 points in Building Designer. Unlocks all buildings from the start, and will build nice stone ones that improve dwarven moods. The sheer amount of construction needed to build a secure and functional initial fort quickly may make it a good idea to turn OFF all labors for the Architect except Mason and Building Designer, at least until everyone and everything is safely underground. If you ever do finish building everthing you need, give him back any labors you turned off, and add Engraver (train him by smoothing stone first) and Miner labors as well. (Moodable skill: Mason)
*Mech Pilot: 5 points in Mechanic, 5 points in any skill you want. I used to think Ballistae were awesome, but sadly they only work well on paper, unless built (and crewed) in large numbers. If you still want to use them, putting his 5 points in Siege Engineer is better than Siege Operator, for high quality machines straight away. Build some extra catapults and sling rocks around for training when your dwarves have some free time, if you still want to use siege engines. Otherwise, you can give him a quick crafting skill, possibly one of the job skills the other dwarves would be training up from Dabbling (Armorer or Blacksmith would probably be the best). Don't attach a seriously time-consuming skill like Wood Burner or Furnace Operator, though, because this dwarf should mostly be making mechanisms for your cage traps. (Moodable skill: Mechanic)
Crafting and Gem Setter skills should be available through immigrants, but the Stonecraft skill can be trained up easily and cheaply from nothing by any dwarf that spends much time idle, if you absolutely must have something quickly. Fishing and Hunting can likewise usually wait until immigrants arrive with these skills. Chasing wolves around with your militia can be frustrating, but eventually one of them will make the mistake of trying to stand and fight, and even simple clothes can deflect most animals' teeth, claws, and horns (just don't go after bears without metal armor!).

Recommended embark items:
*1+ copper picks (use any leftover embark points to buy up to 5 spares)
*1 iron anvil, to guarantee you can make more picks quickly.
*1 wooden training axe, or battle axe if the "training axes can chop down trees" exploit is ever fixed. This will keep you from being left without fuel for the forge if you run out of wood, but can be skipped if you're embarking to an area where there are no trees (or if you're going to DIY it).
*1+ of each type of seed, mostly for the bags, as you will probably be surface farming with gathered plants until the caravans arrive anyhow. Note that quarry bush seeds are edible, and dwarves will often consume your whole initial stockpile before you can plant them.
*35-40 units of meat/fish, one from each different animal or fish that is available to your culture for 2 embark points per unit. This will give you enough meat to keep your dwarves fed until the first caravan arrives, and the maximum number of free barrels as well. Meat is generally preferred by dwarves over organs that aren't prepared in a kitchen first (meaning the barrels will be empty and available for other uses faster). Note that some animals may not have meat available (vermin like cave spiders, for example), in which case organs are preferable to nothing at all. Note that dwarven nutritional needs seem to have increased since the 31.12 patch; the original recommendation of 25-30 food probably won't even last you through summer, and getting this minimum might not even last through autumn without farming or hunting some extra.
*31 each of dwarven ale, dwarven beer, and dwarven rum. Dwarven wine will be produced in large quantities on site once subterranean farming is ready to grow Plump Helmets, and this should be enough alcohol to keep your dwarves happy until a caravan arrives with more if you need it. Dwarven alcohol needs have increased a bit too, it seems.
*Anything else that you may need more of than the site can provide right away:
**Wood, if the biomes are devoid of trees (glacier, mountain, desert, etc.).
**Metal ore, if you have plenty of trees but may need more/better metal than you are likely to find immediately (savage/evil biomes).
**Metal bars, if you need metal but trees are scarce.
**Weapons and armor, if you are mad enough to take on a Terrifying biome.
**Flux stone, if you want to make steel quickly but the embark site lacks chalk, limestone, or dolomite (marble and calcite are normally only found far too deep to be of much early use).
**Dogs, if you want a decent "militia" fairly quickly. Build a kennel and have the Boss train them into War Dogs. One male and the rest females will produce more dogs as quickly as possible.
**Plaster bags, for the hospital. You can usually find some plaster-making stones on site, but turning them into bags of plaster powder for setting bones is a difficult, time consuming, and fuel burning process, until you can build magma kilns. On the other hand, if you aren't expecting serious combat before the caravans arrive, you can usually buy more than you will ever use from them fairly cheap.
**Plump Helmets, as an emergency food/alcohol supply if you anticipate problems making a subterranean farm. Buy in quantities ending in 1, for the maximum number of free barrels. They're quite a bit more expensive than seeds, or other foodstuffs, but their utility makes up for that.

===The It-Do-Yourself Steel Option weApon Pair Strategy or TIDYSOAPS===

{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="3" style="text-align:center;float:right;margin:0 0 20px 30px;"
|-
! colspan="4" style="background-color:#eee;border-bottom:1px solid black;text-align:center;" | Embark Costs of Pre-made Implements
|-
!Material
!Battle Axes
!Picks
!Total Points
|-
|steel
|2
|
|2040p
|-
|steel
|
|2
|1320p
|-
|steel
|1
|1
|1680p
|-
|bronze
|2
|
|340p
|-
|bronze
|
|2
|220p
|-
|bronze
|1
|1
|280p
|-
|copper
|2
|
|136p
|-
|copper
|
|2
|88p
|-
|copper
|1
|1
|112p
|}
This is a power-gaming strategy that can be integrated as a component of a starting build, in lieu of a pair of steel weapons. In the current build, a steel pick costs 660p (embark points), and a steel battle axe costs 1020p. All told, we can get two steel implements at better {{L|Item quality|quality}} for 312p, more or less. (See the table at right for a comparison of embark costs.) The steel implements, able to double as weapons, can give your squishy {{L|Miner|Excavators}} and {{L|Wood cutter|Lumberjacks}} an advantage in battle.

You get two steel implements for a minimum total cost of '''172p'''. (312p with the skills, and those too will last you a lifetime.) It's steel for the price of {{L|bronze}}! What a... steal. *uncomfortable cough* This gives you a savings of up to 1868p, which means you roughly double-and-a-half your embark points. It just takes a bit of time and dwarf labor.

'''Prepare for the journey carefully:'''

At the {{L|Embark}} screen, choose the following items:

* Required
** 3p x 1 unit of {{L|fire-safe}} {{L|stone}} from the Stone category
** 100p x 1 {{L|iron}} {{L|anvil}}
** A distinct lack of {{L|steel}} weapons

* Main, cheapest, most desirable raw materials
** 24p x 2 units of iron {{L|ore}} from the Stone category ({{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, or {{L|Magnetite}})
** 6p x 2 units of {{L|flux}} stone from the Stone category ({{L|Calcite}}, {{L|Chalk}}, {{L|Dolomite}}, {{L|Limestone}}, or {{L|Marble}})
** 3p x 3 units of {{L|Bituminous coal}} from the Stone category
** 0p x3 logs of any type of {{L|wood}}
*** From deconstructing your {{L|Wagon}}
** 0p (No {{L|Skill|skills}} taken)

*'''Recommended''' but optional:140p (4 skills x 35p for embark skills at Proficient: {{L|Furnace operator}}, {{L|Wood burner}}, {{L|Metalsmith}} and {{L|Weaponsmith}})

You want more than two implements?

'''For each successive weapon pair: (72p)'''

The same scheme can be used to make more weapon pairs. For four implements, just double all of the raw materials and add an extra {{L|Bituminous coal}} to make up for the lack of wood from the wagon. Simply add more of the raw materials to provide for more pairs. The rough cost is 72p per successive pair. Your only constraint is more time and dwarfpower.

*For an extra pair of steel weapons:
**24p x 2 units of {{L|iron}} {{L|ore}} from the Stone category ({{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, or {{L|Magnetite}})
**6p x 2 units of {{L|flux}} {{L|stone}} from the Stone category ({{L|Calcite}}, {{L|Chalk}}, {{L|Dolomite}}, {{L|Limestone}}, or {{L|Marble}})
**3p x 4 units of {{L|Bituminous coal}} from the Stone category

'''Substitutes for above grocery lists:'''

Due to extenuating circumstances, such as the variability of the goods your {{L|Civilization|parent civilization}} has
available, some substitutes may be used:

* Substitutes
** Fuel:
*** 3p x 3 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of the Wagon wood
****Don't deconstruct wagon
*** 3p x 5 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of 3 Bituminous coal
**** Make 8 charcoal
*** 10p x 1 units of {{L|fuel|charcoal or coke}} and 1 Bituminous coal instead of wagon wood
**** Don't build wood furnace
*** 10p x 8 units of {{L|fuel|charcoal or coke}} instead of wood + coal
**** Skip wood furnace and coke making
** Single option sub. to save time:
*** 50p x 1 iron bar + 50p x 1 pig iron bar instead of 2 iron ores + 1 flux stone + 1 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood
*** 150p x 2 steel bars instead of 2 iron ore + 2 flux stone + 2 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood

'''Strike the earth!'''

* Deconstruct the {{L|Wagon}} your {{L|Embark|starting goods}} come in.
* Build a {{L|Wood furnace}} with the fire-safe stone
** Use 3 wood to make '''3''' charcoal
** Deconstruct the furnace

* Build a {{L|Smelter}} using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed furnace
** Smelt 3 bituminous coal (powered with 3 charcoal) --> into 9 units of coke
** Smelt 2 iron ores (powered with 2 coke) --> two iron bars
** Smelt '''ONE''' iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 1 pig iron bar
** Smelt 1 iron bar + 1 pig iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 2 steel bars
** Deconstruct the smelter

* Build a {{L|Metalsmith's forge}} using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed smelter + iron anvil
** Using 2 steel (powered with 1 coke) forge 2 weapons
** Deconstruct the forge

* At the end of which, all you will have left relevant to the strategy are:
** A unit of fire-safe rock
** Two steel weapons
** An iron anvil
** Possibly an extra coke

You could then, for instance, embark with several copper picks since pick material doesn't really help actual mining much{{Verify}}, then forge axes. Lots of them. Only 72p per pair. Wowza.
Why buy picks? If you're running this setup it's cheaper to get steel.

v0.31:Sample Starting Builds

2011-11-27T10:15:32Z

Nand: /* The Warriors */

The following are sample starting builds provided by users. They may be as specific as full skill and item specifications with a file that you can copy and paste to use yourself, or as general as suggestions on how you might set up your starting build.

===Ashery===
*Military: 5 armor use, 5 dodge. Possibly a mix of dodge and shield use instead of max dodge, but that's up in the air. Set to start training the moment goods are hauled inside the fort's entrance. Also does woodcutting as needed.
*Doctor/Leader: 1 appraise, 2 diagnose, 2 bone doctor, 2 surgeon, 2 wound dresser, 1 suture. Also serves as one of my primary miners and, once replacement miners come, the fort's first bookkeeper as well.
*Farmer/Cook: 4 farming, 5 cooking, 1 armorsmith. Does most of the early hauling grunt work, but eventually is restricted only to food related activities. No mining is done in order to keep armorsmithing as the highest moodable skill.
*Farmer/Brewer: 4 farming, 5 brewing, 1 armorsmith. Same as the cook.
*Weapon/Armorsmith: 5 armorsmith, 5 weaponsmith. Does a sizable amount of the early mining, but is removed from duty before the mining skill gets too high.
*Mason: 5 mason, 5 building design. Can help out with mining if necessary, but is usually busy constructing buildings or helping the farmers haul goods.
*Carpenter/Mechanic: 5 carpentry, 5 mechanic. An odd mix, but mechanisms are my primary export.

===Tarran===
*(every skill has five points put into it)
*2 miners/engravers (when they are not mining they are engraving)
*1 mason/carpenter (deals with all that stuff)
*1 mechanic/stonecrafter (when he is not making mechanisms he is making crafts)
*1 woodcutter/architect (when not cutting wood he is designing buildings)
*1 grower/brewer (deals with all my needs this early in the game)
*1 adequate armorsmith, weaponsmith, and metalcrafter. novice furnace operator, and wood burner (remove wood burner if you have magma)

===Ancient Enemy===
*Leader with all his points distributed through negotiation/bookkeeper/appraiser/etc.
*3 dwarves with proficient mining
*1 proficient grower
*1 proficient brewer
*1 proficient cook

===Proteus===
*Leader/Miner: 6-7 points into things important to become leader and broker (appraisal, negotiation, judge of intent, organizing and others, all at least with 1 pt), rest into mining
*Doc/Recordkeeper +at least another productive job: 1-2pts into diagnostics, 1pt in each other medical skill, 1pt in recordkeeping, rest into 1-2 jobs
*Cook: 4-5pts in cooking, 2-4pts in brewing, rest in fish cleaning and butchery
*Farmer: around 3-4pts in Growing, at least 1pt in milling, plant processing and brewing
*Crafter: Usually 5pts in stone crafting, rest in other crafting jobs (although that might change, as now bone carving has become next to worthless)
*Clothier: 2-4pts in leatherworking and clothier, rest into weaving and tanning
*Builder: Most of his points into Masonry, Engraving and Mechanics, as well as a few points into Carpenter (if no other dwarf already has pts in this job)

===Cronus===
*Miners/Mechanics: 2 dwarves with max points in mining and mechanics; get the fort, then those traps, up quickly.
*Woodcutter/Carpenter: points in woodcutting and carpentry; chop during initial dig then start pumping out beds and barrels
*Farmer/Brewer: points in farming and brewing; get the wheat and helmets in and brew during the off-season. Can also serve as butcher in a pinch.
*Crafter: points dispersed into stonecrafting, bonecarving, weaving, and leatherworking.
*Mason/Architect: points into masonry and building design. Allows a focus on walls, doors, and bridges.
*Leader/Trader: spread points among appraisal, negotiator, conversationalist, consoler, and comedian.

===Jake Grey===
* The Hunter: Ambusher, Marksdwarf, Hammerdwarf, Shield/Armour User, Dodger. Number two source of protein and useful military backup.
* The Catering Team: One Grower/Butcher/Fish Cleaner/Tanner and one Grower/Cook/Brewer/Plant Gatherer/Thresher. Usually get the Record Keeper and Appraiser points as well, since they have probably the safest jobs, and some points in mining to get things dug faster.
* The Artisans: One Carpenter/Woodcutter/Bone Carver, one Miner/Mason/Stone Crafter/Architect and one Miner/Metalsmith/Weaponsmith/Armoursmith/Furnace Operator. The blacksmith usually gets the Organiser points, as I don't embark with an anvil.
* "Dr Fisher": Adequate Diagnostician, Wound Dresser, Suturer, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Novice Fisherdwarf. The world's happiest on-call GP, feeds the fortress almost single-handed while waiting for someone to get injured.

===The Stoners===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts when needed)
*Miner/Mechanic (mines and makes levers or traps when needed)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all the furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Woodcutter (cuts wood, makes beds, bins, barrels, and cages if needed)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Grower/Brewer (farms, makes booze, and does most of the hauling early)
*Grower/Cook (farms, cooks food, and does most of the hauling early)

Supplies:
*2 Picks
*1 Battleaxe
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*5-10 of each seed
*Spend the rest of the points on anything else you want like plump helmets, animals, wood, and ores. Taking copper ores (malachite/copper nuggets) and tin ores (cassiterite) are a good choice since using them to make bronze is very cheap at 6 points per ore.

Notes:
*After hauling your wagon supplies indoors, have your smith work nonstop making fuel, smelting ores, and making weapons/armor. By the time your first migrants arrive you should have a full set of armor and a weapon for each. If not have the migrants help the smith out with smelting. Then draft them. By starting training early and having good gear your militia should do well.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts and any extra goods you have lying around like plump helmet roasts for example.

===Gemcutters===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts when needed)
*Miner/Gem Cutter (mines and cuts gems)
*Miner/Gem Setter (mines and encrusts gems into crafts and furniture)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Mechanic (makes beds, bins, barrels, cages, levers, and traps)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Farmer/Brewer (hauls early on until you hit the caverns, then will farm and brew)

Supplies:
*3 Picks
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 meat/fish/eggs
*15 plump helmets
*5 of each seed
*50 or so logs
*spend the rest on whatever else you want like animals and ores.

Notes:
*This is basically a variation of "The Stoners" build above, except modified to be used on a glacier type embark. The woodcutter is useless on glaciers so tons of wood is brought instead. The 2nd farmer is replaced with a 3rd miner in order to help find the caverns before your food runs out.
*Once you hit the caverns you can start farming on the mud. Be sure you draft your first few migrants and supply them with good gear using your smith; in order to defend yourself from anything that may be down there.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts/mugs encrusted with any gems you find.

===The Warriors ===
The Dwarves:
*1 Miner (No secondary skill, he does all mining, all the time)
*1 Carpenter/Mechanic
*1 Mason/Brewer
*1 Herbalist/Farmer
*1 Axeman/Armor User
*1 Spearman/Dodger
*1 Swordman/Shield User

The Supplies:
*1 copper pick.
*6 Iron Ore, 6 Flux Stone (For making steel weapons and helmets)
*5 Magma safe stone (for first workshops)
*15 Logs
*15 Leather
*5 Lye (For soapmaking)
*Remaining points go to bronze-making supplies and/or steel making supplies and coal (or more logs).

Notes:
The warriors are immediately set to forging their own gear, then quickly set to training. If you like ditch the mason/brewer and replace with a 4th warrior for 2 squads of 2 (maximum training speed). Herbalist provides brewing and food (hint: cook the seeds) until the warriors can hunt. This setup is also ideal for piercing aquifers, since it is well-adapted to life on the surface, and the warriors can double as pump-operators.

===The Mining Guild===

The Dwarves:
*7 Proficient Miners

Supplies:
*7 Copper Picks
*100 Booze (25 of each type)
*100 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*25 Plump Helmets
*7 Logs

Notes:
*Seven miners to dig out your entire fort straight from the start with enough food/booze to last you a year or two. Let migrants fill the other roles your fortress will require.
*Don't bother hauling all these supplies. Just build a wall around your wagon site and make it accessible via a staircase underground.
*Use the 7 logs + the 3 from the wagon to make a cheap dormitory until a good carpenter migrates to you. Also make a small dining room so dwarves stop complaining.
*Plump Helmets are to be used for emergency booze only, not eaten. Keep them forbidden until enough barrels become empty.
*Now dig, dig EVERYTHING. Two hundred bedrooms, noble quarters, grand dining room, massive workshop floors, massive stockpile floors, magma smelting floors, massive tree farms, barracks, hospitals, wells, crypts, trap corridors, etc etc.

=== BillyBob and the Rock Nuts ===
{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="5"
!Profession
!Skills
|-
|FarmerBrewer
|Grower-5, Brewer-5
|-
|MinerMason
|Mining-5, Masonry-2, Engraving-3
|-
|MinerJeweller
|Mining-5, Masonry-1, GemCutting-4
|-
|LumberjackHerbalist
|Woodcutting-4,Herbalism-3, Axedwarf, Armor, Carpentry
|-
|CookDoctor
|Cook-3, Threshing-2, Diagnose, DressWounds, Suture, SetBones, Surgery
|-
|CarpenterLeader
|Carpentry-4, Leadership-3, Negotiate, Appraisal, Record Keeper
|-
|CrafterArchitect
|Stonecraft-5, Building Designer-4, Mechanic
|}
The lumberjack is the only one that _has_ to go outside, and all the rest can work indoors. Two main sources of income are farming (Sweet Pods->Dwarven Syrup) and Rock Crafting (to buy elven wood/barrels).

<pre>
[PROFILE]
[TITLE:BillyBob and the Rock Nuts]
[SKILL:1:MINING:5]
[SKILL:1:DETAILSTONE:3]
[SKILL:1:MASONRY:2]
[SKILL:2:MINING:5]
[SKILL:2:MASONRY:1]
[SKILL:2:CUTGEM:4]
[SKILL:3:WOODCUTTING:4]
[SKILL:3:CARPENTRY:1]
[SKILL:3:HERBALISM:3]
[SKILL:3:AXE:1]
[SKILL:3:ARMOR:1]
[SKILL:4:CARPENTRY:4]
[SKILL:4:NEGOTIATION:1]
[SKILL:4:APPRAISAL:1]
[SKILL:4:RECORD_KEEPING:1]
[SKILL:4:LEADERSHIP:3]
[SKILL:5:BREWING:5]
[SKILL:5:PLANT:5]
[SKILL:6:PROCESSPLANTS:2]
[SKILL:6:COOK:3]
[SKILL:6:DRESS_WOUNDS:1]
[SKILL:6:DIAGNOSE:1]
[SKILL:6:SURGERY:1]
[SKILL:6:SET_BONE:1]
[SKILL:6:SUTURE:1]
[SKILL:7:STONECRAFT:5]
[SKILL:7:MECHANICS:1]
[SKILL:7:DESIGNBUILDING:4]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_PICK:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_AXE_BATTLE:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:1:ANVIL:NONE:INORGANIC:IRON]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_WHEAT_CAVE:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:DRINK]
[ITEM:5:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:SEED]
[ITEM:12:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:SEED]
[ITEM:11:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:POD_SWEET:SEED]
[ITEM:11:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:MARMOT_HOARY:STOMACH]
[ITEM:11:PLANT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:STRUCTURAL]
[ITEM:1:THREAD:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:1:CLOTH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BOX:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:2:CHAIN:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BUCKET:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:SPLINT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:CRUTCH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:15:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:WARTHOG:MUSCLE]
[PET:2:DOG:FEMALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:1:DOG:MALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:2:CAT:FEMALE:STANDARD]
[PET:1:CAT:MALE:STANDARD]
</pre>

===Tatter's Ragtime Band===

Designed to pair important time-consuming skills with important but quickly completed skills, moodable skills with non-moodable skills, and generally embark only with skills that can't be trained from "unskilled" quickly (for example, no mining skills). Tailored to minimize bugs in versions 31.12.
*Boss: 5 points in Armor User, 1 point in Appraiser, Negotiator, Judge of Intent, Record Keeper, and Organizer. Will be your chief miner, militia commander, and all-around noble early on, and almost certainly will become expedition leader as well. As other dwarves arrive with mining and/or noble skills (even if they aren't as high-level as the Boss's), replace the Boss with them as soon as possible, to relieve his workload. Keep the Boss as your militia commander and broker, mining mostly to train his skill with a pick, until a dwarf with better skills for these tasks arrives. If you embark with dogs, give the Boss the Animal Trainer labor as well and have him train them into War Dogs for extra protection. Note: As of 31.12, training seems to finally be working as intended, making axe/sword/hammer/spear dwarves feasable. Swap the Armor User with any other weapon skills if you like, but Armor User seems to be the slowest skill to develop, and I personally prefer to stick with it for the Boss. Plus, picks being pretty crummy weapons will help if you decide to make a Sherrif or Captain of the Guard with poor weapon skills so punishing "crime" won't result in undue maiming. (Moodable skill: Mining)
*Doc: 5 points in Carpentry, 1 point in Diagnostician, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Suturer, and Wound Dresser. A doctor that can make his own beds, splints, and crutches (and tables and cabinets, if you have an excess of wood). Make him Chief Medical Dwarf right away, but replace him as soon as a better Diagnostician comes along. Make him a Plant Gatherer and Wood Cutter as well (until immigrants with better skills arrive), to give him something to do when he has nothing to build and nobody to heal. (Moodable skill: Carpentry)
*Rock Farmer: 5 points in Grower, 5 points in Gem Cutting. Farming is more difficult to set up than it used to be, but no less time consuming. Gem Cutting takes little time and provides the fortress with the highest-value, lowest-weight trade items you're likely to find early on. You can also make him a Plant Processor and/or Miller if you need the materials for emergency mood satisfaction and/or cooking, but these skills should be provided at higher levels by immigrants fairly quickly, and cloth isn't critical for an early fortress (hunt and butcher wildlife with your militia instead, and make bags/clothes out of leather). Give him the Mining labor at least, though, as all dwarves who aren't Wood Cutting or Hunting should be available as backup miners and emergency militia. (Moodable skill: Gem Cutting)
*Embalmer: 5 points in Brewing, 5 points in Leatherworking. Makes leather bags and armor early in the game, alcohol later. Assign him the Tanner and Butcher labors as well, until immigrants with better skills arrive, and the Miner labor, for the reasons stated above. (Moodable skill: Leatherworker)
*Iron Chef: 5 points in Cooking, 5 points in Weaponsmithing. Makes the steel when he isn't making a meal. Assign him the Furnace Operator and Wood Burner labors, until immigrants with better skills arrive, so he can make the raw materials of his craft, and the Miner labor on general principles. If you're unlucky with immigrants, or determined to make additional forges or metal armor right away, you can give him the Armorer and Blacksmith labors as well. (Moodable skill: Weaponsmith)
*Architect: 5 points in Mason, 5 points in Building Designer. Unlocks all buildings from the start, and will build nice stone ones that improve dwarven moods. The sheer amount of construction needed to build a secure and functional initial fort quickly may make it a good idea to turn OFF all labors for the Architect except Mason and Building Designer, at least until everyone and everything is safely underground. If you ever do finish building everthing you need, give him back any labors you turned off, and add Engraver (train him by smoothing stone first) and Miner labors as well. (Moodable skill: Mason)
*Mech Pilot: 5 points in Mechanic, 5 points in any skill you want. I used to think Ballistae were awesome, but sadly they only work well on paper, unless built (and crewed) in large numbers. If you still want to use them, putting his 5 points in Siege Engineer is better than Siege Operator, for high quality machines straight away. Build some extra catapults and sling rocks around for training when your dwarves have some free time, if you still want to use siege engines. Otherwise, you can give him a quick crafting skill, possibly one of the job skills the other dwarves would be training up from Dabbling (Armorer or Blacksmith would probably be the best). Don't attach a seriously time-consuming skill like Wood Burner or Furnace Operator, though, because this dwarf should mostly be making mechanisms for your cage traps. (Moodable skill: Mechanic)
Crafting and Gem Setter skills should be available through immigrants, but the Stonecraft skill can be trained up easily and cheaply from nothing by any dwarf that spends much time idle, if you absolutely must have something quickly. Fishing and Hunting can likewise usually wait until immigrants arrive with these skills. Chasing wolves around with your militia can be frustrating, but eventually one of them will make the mistake of trying to stand and fight, and even simple clothes can deflect most animals' teeth, claws, and horns (just don't go after bears without metal armor!).

Recommended embark items:
*1+ copper picks (use any leftover embark points to buy up to 5 spares)
*1 iron anvil, to guarantee you can make more picks quickly.
*1 wooden training axe, or battle axe if the "training axes can chop down trees" exploit is ever fixed. This will keep you from being left without fuel for the forge if you run out of wood, but can be skipped if you're embarking to an area where there are no trees (or if you're going to DIY it).
*1+ of each type of seed, mostly for the bags, as you will probably be surface farming with gathered plants until the caravans arrive anyhow. Note that quarry bush seeds are edible, and dwarves will often consume your whole initial stockpile before you can plant them.
*35-40 units of meat/fish, one from each different animal or fish that is available to your culture for 2 embark points per unit. This will give you enough meat to keep your dwarves fed until the first caravan arrives, and the maximum number of free barrels as well. Meat is generally preferred by dwarves over organs that aren't prepared in a kitchen first (meaning the barrels will be empty and available for other uses faster). Note that some animals may not have meat available (vermin like cave spiders, for example), in which case organs are preferable to nothing at all. Note that dwarven nutritional needs seem to have increased since the 31.12 patch; the original recommendation of 25-30 food probably won't even last you through summer, and getting this minimum might not even last through autumn without farming or hunting some extra.
*31 each of dwarven ale, dwarven beer, and dwarven rum. Dwarven wine will be produced in large quantities on site once subterranean farming is ready to grow Plump Helmets, and this should be enough alcohol to keep your dwarves happy until a caravan arrives with more if you need it. Dwarven alcohol needs have increased a bit too, it seems.
*Anything else that you may need more of than the site can provide right away:
**Wood, if the biomes are devoid of trees (glacier, mountain, desert, etc.).
**Metal ore, if you have plenty of trees but may need more/better metal than you are likely to find immediately (savage/evil biomes).
**Metal bars, if you need metal but trees are scarce.
**Weapons and armor, if you are mad enough to take on a Terrifying biome.
**Flux stone, if you want to make steel quickly but the embark site lacks chalk, limestone, or dolomite (marble and calcite are normally only found far too deep to be of much early use).
**Dogs, if you want a decent "militia" fairly quickly. Build a kennel and have the Boss train them into War Dogs. One male and the rest females will produce more dogs as quickly as possible.
**Plaster bags, for the hospital. You can usually find some plaster-making stones on site, but turning them into bags of plaster powder for setting bones is a difficult, time consuming, and fuel burning process, until you can build magma kilns. On the other hand, if you aren't expecting serious combat before the caravans arrive, you can usually buy more than you will ever use from them fairly cheap.
**Plump Helmets, as an emergency food/alcohol supply if you anticipate problems making a subterranean farm. Buy in quantities ending in 1, for the maximum number of free barrels. They're quite a bit more expensive than seeds, or other foodstuffs, but their utility makes up for that.

===The It-Do-Yourself Steel Option weApon Pair Strategy or TIDYSOAPS===

{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="3" style="text-align:center;float:right;margin:0 0 20px 30px;"
|-
! colspan="4" style="background-color:#eee;border-bottom:1px solid black;text-align:center;" | Embark Costs of Pre-made Implements
|-
!Material
!Battle Axes
!Picks
!Total Points
|-
|steel
|2
|
|2040p
|-
|steel
|
|2
|1320p
|-
|steel
|1
|1
|1680p
|-
|bronze
|2
|
|340p
|-
|bronze
|
|2
|220p
|-
|bronze
|1
|1
|280p
|-
|copper
|2
|
|136p
|-
|copper
|
|2
|88p
|-
|copper
|1
|1
|112p
|}
This is a power-gaming strategy that can be integrated as a component of a starting build, in lieu of a pair of steel weapons. In the current build, a steel pick costs 660p (embark points), and a steel battle axe costs 1020p. All told, we can get two steel implements at better {{L|Item quality|quality}} for 312p, more or less. (See the table at right for a comparison of embark costs.) The steel implements, able to double as weapons, can give your squishy {{L|Miner|Excavators}} and {{L|Wood cutter|Lumberjacks}} an advantage in battle.

You get two steel implements for a minimum total cost of '''172p'''. (312p with the skills, and those too will last you a lifetime.) It's steel for the price of {{L|bronze}}! What a... steal. *uncomfortable cough* This gives you a savings of up to 1868p, which means you roughly double-and-a-half your embark points. It just takes a bit of time and dwarf labor.

'''Prepare for the journey carefully:'''

At the {{L|Embark}} screen, choose the following items:

* Required
** 3p x 1 unit of {{L|fire-safe}} {{L|stone}} from the Stone category
** 100p x 1 {{L|iron}} {{L|anvil}}
** A distinct lack of {{L|steel}} weapons

* Main, cheapest, most desirable raw materials
** 24p x 2 units of iron {{L|ore}} from the Stone category ({{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, or {{L|Magnetite}})
** 6p x 2 units of {{L|flux}} stone from the Stone category ({{L|Calcite}}, {{L|Chalk}}, {{L|Dolomite}}, {{L|Limestone}}, or {{L|Marble}})
** 3p x 3 units of {{L|Bituminous coal}} from the Stone category
** 0p x3 logs of any type of {{L|wood}}
*** From deconstructing your {{L|Wagon}}
** 0p (No {{L|Skill|skills}} taken)

*'''Recommended''' but optional:140p (4 skills x 35p for embark skills at Proficient: {{L|Furnace operator}}, {{L|Wood burner}}, {{L|Metalsmith}} and {{L|Weaponsmith}})

You want more than two implements?

'''For each successive weapon pair: (72p)'''

The same scheme can be used to make more weapon pairs. For four implements, just double all of the raw materials and add an extra {{L|Bituminous coal}} to make up for the lack of wood from the wagon. Simply add more of the raw materials to provide for more pairs. The rough cost is 72p per successive pair. Your only constraint is more time and dwarfpower.

*For an extra pair of steel weapons:
**24p x 2 units of {{L|iron}} {{L|ore}} from the Stone category ({{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, or {{L|Magnetite}})
**6p x 2 units of {{L|flux}} {{L|stone}} from the Stone category ({{L|Calcite}}, {{L|Chalk}}, {{L|Dolomite}}, {{L|Limestone}}, or {{L|Marble}})
**3p x 4 units of {{L|Bituminous coal}} from the Stone category

'''Substitutes for above grocery lists:'''

Due to extenuating circumstances, such as the variability of the goods your {{L|Civilization|parent civilization}} has
available, some substitutes may be used:

* Substitutes
** Fuel:
*** 3p x 3 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of the Wagon wood
****Don't deconstruct wagon
*** 3p x 5 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of 3 Bituminous coal
**** Make 8 charcoal
*** 10p x 1 units of {{L|fuel|charcoal or coke}} and 1 Bituminous coal instead of wagon wood
**** Don't build wood furnace
*** 10p x 8 units of {{L|fuel|charcoal or coke}} instead of wood + coal
**** Skip wood furnace and coke making
** Single option sub. to save time:
*** 50p x 1 iron bar + 50p x 1 pig iron bar instead of 2 iron ores + 1 flux stone + 1 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood
*** 150p x 2 steel bars instead of 2 iron ore + 2 flux stone + 2 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood

'''Strike the earth!'''

* Deconstruct the {{L|Wagon}} your {{L|Embark|starting goods}} come in.
* Build a {{L|Wood furnace}} with the fire-safe stone
** Use 3 wood to make '''3''' charcoal
** Deconstruct the furnace

* Build a {{L|Smelter}} using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed furnace
** Smelt 3 bituminous coal (powered with 3 charcoal) --> into 9 units of coke
** Smelt 2 iron ores (powered with 2 coke) --> two iron bars
** Smelt '''ONE''' iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 1 pig iron bar
** Smelt 1 iron bar + 1 pig iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 2 steel bars
** Deconstruct the smelter

* Build a {{L|Metalsmith's forge}} using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed smelter + iron anvil
** Using 2 steel (powered with 1 coke) forge 2 weapons
** Deconstruct the forge

* At the end of which, all you will have left relevant to the strategy are:
** A unit of fire-safe rock
** Two steel weapons
** An iron anvil
** Possibly an extra coke

You could then, for instance, embark with several copper picks since pick material doesn't really help actual mining much{{Verify}}, then forge axes. Lots of them. Only 72p per pair. Wowza.
Why buy picks? If you're running this setup it's cheaper to get steel.

v0.31:Sample Starting Builds

2011-11-27T10:13:55Z

Nand: /* The Warriors */

The following are sample starting builds provided by users. They may be as specific as full skill and item specifications with a file that you can copy and paste to use yourself, or as general as suggestions on how you might set up your starting build.

===Ashery===
*Military: 5 armor use, 5 dodge. Possibly a mix of dodge and shield use instead of max dodge, but that's up in the air. Set to start training the moment goods are hauled inside the fort's entrance. Also does woodcutting as needed.
*Doctor/Leader: 1 appraise, 2 diagnose, 2 bone doctor, 2 surgeon, 2 wound dresser, 1 suture. Also serves as one of my primary miners and, once replacement miners come, the fort's first bookkeeper as well.
*Farmer/Cook: 4 farming, 5 cooking, 1 armorsmith. Does most of the early hauling grunt work, but eventually is restricted only to food related activities. No mining is done in order to keep armorsmithing as the highest moodable skill.
*Farmer/Brewer: 4 farming, 5 brewing, 1 armorsmith. Same as the cook.
*Weapon/Armorsmith: 5 armorsmith, 5 weaponsmith. Does a sizable amount of the early mining, but is removed from duty before the mining skill gets too high.
*Mason: 5 mason, 5 building design. Can help out with mining if necessary, but is usually busy constructing buildings or helping the farmers haul goods.
*Carpenter/Mechanic: 5 carpentry, 5 mechanic. An odd mix, but mechanisms are my primary export.

===Tarran===
*(every skill has five points put into it)
*2 miners/engravers (when they are not mining they are engraving)
*1 mason/carpenter (deals with all that stuff)
*1 mechanic/stonecrafter (when he is not making mechanisms he is making crafts)
*1 woodcutter/architect (when not cutting wood he is designing buildings)
*1 grower/brewer (deals with all my needs this early in the game)
*1 adequate armorsmith, weaponsmith, and metalcrafter. novice furnace operator, and wood burner (remove wood burner if you have magma)

===Ancient Enemy===
*Leader with all his points distributed through negotiation/bookkeeper/appraiser/etc.
*3 dwarves with proficient mining
*1 proficient grower
*1 proficient brewer
*1 proficient cook

===Proteus===
*Leader/Miner: 6-7 points into things important to become leader and broker (appraisal, negotiation, judge of intent, organizing and others, all at least with 1 pt), rest into mining
*Doc/Recordkeeper +at least another productive job: 1-2pts into diagnostics, 1pt in each other medical skill, 1pt in recordkeeping, rest into 1-2 jobs
*Cook: 4-5pts in cooking, 2-4pts in brewing, rest in fish cleaning and butchery
*Farmer: around 3-4pts in Growing, at least 1pt in milling, plant processing and brewing
*Crafter: Usually 5pts in stone crafting, rest in other crafting jobs (although that might change, as now bone carving has become next to worthless)
*Clothier: 2-4pts in leatherworking and clothier, rest into weaving and tanning
*Builder: Most of his points into Masonry, Engraving and Mechanics, as well as a few points into Carpenter (if no other dwarf already has pts in this job)

===Cronus===
*Miners/Mechanics: 2 dwarves with max points in mining and mechanics; get the fort, then those traps, up quickly.
*Woodcutter/Carpenter: points in woodcutting and carpentry; chop during initial dig then start pumping out beds and barrels
*Farmer/Brewer: points in farming and brewing; get the wheat and helmets in and brew during the off-season. Can also serve as butcher in a pinch.
*Crafter: points dispersed into stonecrafting, bonecarving, weaving, and leatherworking.
*Mason/Architect: points into masonry and building design. Allows a focus on walls, doors, and bridges.
*Leader/Trader: spread points among appraisal, negotiator, conversationalist, consoler, and comedian.

===Jake Grey===
* The Hunter: Ambusher, Marksdwarf, Hammerdwarf, Shield/Armour User, Dodger. Number two source of protein and useful military backup.
* The Catering Team: One Grower/Butcher/Fish Cleaner/Tanner and one Grower/Cook/Brewer/Plant Gatherer/Thresher. Usually get the Record Keeper and Appraiser points as well, since they have probably the safest jobs, and some points in mining to get things dug faster.
* The Artisans: One Carpenter/Woodcutter/Bone Carver, one Miner/Mason/Stone Crafter/Architect and one Miner/Metalsmith/Weaponsmith/Armoursmith/Furnace Operator. The blacksmith usually gets the Organiser points, as I don't embark with an anvil.
* "Dr Fisher": Adequate Diagnostician, Wound Dresser, Suturer, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Novice Fisherdwarf. The world's happiest on-call GP, feeds the fortress almost single-handed while waiting for someone to get injured.

===The Stoners===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts when needed)
*Miner/Mechanic (mines and makes levers or traps when needed)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all the furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Woodcutter (cuts wood, makes beds, bins, barrels, and cages if needed)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Grower/Brewer (farms, makes booze, and does most of the hauling early)
*Grower/Cook (farms, cooks food, and does most of the hauling early)

Supplies:
*2 Picks
*1 Battleaxe
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*5-10 of each seed
*Spend the rest of the points on anything else you want like plump helmets, animals, wood, and ores. Taking copper ores (malachite/copper nuggets) and tin ores (cassiterite) are a good choice since using them to make bronze is very cheap at 6 points per ore.

Notes:
*After hauling your wagon supplies indoors, have your smith work nonstop making fuel, smelting ores, and making weapons/armor. By the time your first migrants arrive you should have a full set of armor and a weapon for each. If not have the migrants help the smith out with smelting. Then draft them. By starting training early and having good gear your militia should do well.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts and any extra goods you have lying around like plump helmet roasts for example.

===Gemcutters===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts when needed)
*Miner/Gem Cutter (mines and cuts gems)
*Miner/Gem Setter (mines and encrusts gems into crafts and furniture)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Mechanic (makes beds, bins, barrels, cages, levers, and traps)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Farmer/Brewer (hauls early on until you hit the caverns, then will farm and brew)

Supplies:
*3 Picks
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 meat/fish/eggs
*15 plump helmets
*5 of each seed
*50 or so logs
*spend the rest on whatever else you want like animals and ores.

Notes:
*This is basically a variation of "The Stoners" build above, except modified to be used on a glacier type embark. The woodcutter is useless on glaciers so tons of wood is brought instead. The 2nd farmer is replaced with a 3rd miner in order to help find the caverns before your food runs out.
*Once you hit the caverns you can start farming on the mud. Be sure you draft your first few migrants and supply them with good gear using your smith; in order to defend yourself from anything that may be down there.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts/mugs encrusted with any gems you find.

===The Warriors ===
*1 Miner (No secondary skill, he does all mining, all the time)
*1 Carpenter/Mechanic
*1 Mason/Brewer
*1 Herbalist/Farmer
*1 Axeman/Armor User
*1 Spearman/Dodger
*1 Swordman/Shield User

Supplies:
*1 copper pick.
*6 Iron Ore, 6 Flux Stone (For making steel weapons and helmets)
*5 Magma safe stone (for first workshops)
*15 Logs
*15 Leather
*5 Lye (For soapmaking)
*Remaining points go to bronze-making supplies and/or steel making supplies, coal (or more logs).

Strategy:
The warriors are immediately set to forging their own gear, then quickly set to training. If you like ditch the mason/brewer and replace with a 4th warrior for 2 squads of 2 (maximum training speed). Herbalist provides brewing and food (hint: cook the seeds) until the warriors can hunt. This setup is also ideal for piercing aquifers, since it is well-adapted to life on the surface, and the warriors can double as pump-operators.

===The Mining Guild===

The Dwarves:
*7 Proficient Miners

Supplies:
*7 Copper Picks
*100 Booze (25 of each type)
*100 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*25 Plump Helmets
*7 Logs

Notes:
*Seven miners to dig out your entire fort straight from the start with enough food/booze to last you a year or two. Let migrants fill the other roles your fortress will require.
*Don't bother hauling all these supplies. Just build a wall around your wagon site and make it accessible via a staircase underground.
*Use the 7 logs + the 3 from the wagon to make a cheap dormitory until a good carpenter migrates to you. Also make a small dining room so dwarves stop complaining.
*Plump Helmets are to be used for emergency booze only, not eaten. Keep them forbidden until enough barrels become empty.
*Now dig, dig EVERYTHING. Two hundred bedrooms, noble quarters, grand dining room, massive workshop floors, massive stockpile floors, magma smelting floors, massive tree farms, barracks, hospitals, wells, crypts, trap corridors, etc etc.

=== BillyBob and the Rock Nuts ===
{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="5"
!Profession
!Skills
|-
|FarmerBrewer
|Grower-5, Brewer-5
|-
|MinerMason
|Mining-5, Masonry-2, Engraving-3
|-
|MinerJeweller
|Mining-5, Masonry-1, GemCutting-4
|-
|LumberjackHerbalist
|Woodcutting-4,Herbalism-3, Axedwarf, Armor, Carpentry
|-
|CookDoctor
|Cook-3, Threshing-2, Diagnose, DressWounds, Suture, SetBones, Surgery
|-
|CarpenterLeader
|Carpentry-4, Leadership-3, Negotiate, Appraisal, Record Keeper
|-
|CrafterArchitect
|Stonecraft-5, Building Designer-4, Mechanic
|}
The lumberjack is the only one that _has_ to go outside, and all the rest can work indoors. Two main sources of income are farming (Sweet Pods->Dwarven Syrup) and Rock Crafting (to buy elven wood/barrels).

<pre>
[PROFILE]
[TITLE:BillyBob and the Rock Nuts]
[SKILL:1:MINING:5]
[SKILL:1:DETAILSTONE:3]
[SKILL:1:MASONRY:2]
[SKILL:2:MINING:5]
[SKILL:2:MASONRY:1]
[SKILL:2:CUTGEM:4]
[SKILL:3:WOODCUTTING:4]
[SKILL:3:CARPENTRY:1]
[SKILL:3:HERBALISM:3]
[SKILL:3:AXE:1]
[SKILL:3:ARMOR:1]
[SKILL:4:CARPENTRY:4]
[SKILL:4:NEGOTIATION:1]
[SKILL:4:APPRAISAL:1]
[SKILL:4:RECORD_KEEPING:1]
[SKILL:4:LEADERSHIP:3]
[SKILL:5:BREWING:5]
[SKILL:5:PLANT:5]
[SKILL:6:PROCESSPLANTS:2]
[SKILL:6:COOK:3]
[SKILL:6:DRESS_WOUNDS:1]
[SKILL:6:DIAGNOSE:1]
[SKILL:6:SURGERY:1]
[SKILL:6:SET_BONE:1]
[SKILL:6:SUTURE:1]
[SKILL:7:STONECRAFT:5]
[SKILL:7:MECHANICS:1]
[SKILL:7:DESIGNBUILDING:4]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_PICK:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_AXE_BATTLE:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:1:ANVIL:NONE:INORGANIC:IRON]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_WHEAT_CAVE:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:DRINK]
[ITEM:5:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:SEED]
[ITEM:12:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:SEED]
[ITEM:11:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:POD_SWEET:SEED]
[ITEM:11:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:MARMOT_HOARY:STOMACH]
[ITEM:11:PLANT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:STRUCTURAL]
[ITEM:1:THREAD:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:1:CLOTH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BOX:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:2:CHAIN:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BUCKET:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:SPLINT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:CRUTCH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:15:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:WARTHOG:MUSCLE]
[PET:2:DOG:FEMALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:1:DOG:MALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:2:CAT:FEMALE:STANDARD]
[PET:1:CAT:MALE:STANDARD]
</pre>

===Tatter's Ragtime Band===

Designed to pair important time-consuming skills with important but quickly completed skills, moodable skills with non-moodable skills, and generally embark only with skills that can't be trained from "unskilled" quickly (for example, no mining skills). Tailored to minimize bugs in versions 31.12.
*Boss: 5 points in Armor User, 1 point in Appraiser, Negotiator, Judge of Intent, Record Keeper, and Organizer. Will be your chief miner, militia commander, and all-around noble early on, and almost certainly will become expedition leader as well. As other dwarves arrive with mining and/or noble skills (even if they aren't as high-level as the Boss's), replace the Boss with them as soon as possible, to relieve his workload. Keep the Boss as your militia commander and broker, mining mostly to train his skill with a pick, until a dwarf with better skills for these tasks arrives. If you embark with dogs, give the Boss the Animal Trainer labor as well and have him train them into War Dogs for extra protection. Note: As of 31.12, training seems to finally be working as intended, making axe/sword/hammer/spear dwarves feasable. Swap the Armor User with any other weapon skills if you like, but Armor User seems to be the slowest skill to develop, and I personally prefer to stick with it for the Boss. Plus, picks being pretty crummy weapons will help if you decide to make a Sherrif or Captain of the Guard with poor weapon skills so punishing "crime" won't result in undue maiming. (Moodable skill: Mining)
*Doc: 5 points in Carpentry, 1 point in Diagnostician, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Suturer, and Wound Dresser. A doctor that can make his own beds, splints, and crutches (and tables and cabinets, if you have an excess of wood). Make him Chief Medical Dwarf right away, but replace him as soon as a better Diagnostician comes along. Make him a Plant Gatherer and Wood Cutter as well (until immigrants with better skills arrive), to give him something to do when he has nothing to build and nobody to heal. (Moodable skill: Carpentry)
*Rock Farmer: 5 points in Grower, 5 points in Gem Cutting. Farming is more difficult to set up than it used to be, but no less time consuming. Gem Cutting takes little time and provides the fortress with the highest-value, lowest-weight trade items you're likely to find early on. You can also make him a Plant Processor and/or Miller if you need the materials for emergency mood satisfaction and/or cooking, but these skills should be provided at higher levels by immigrants fairly quickly, and cloth isn't critical for an early fortress (hunt and butcher wildlife with your militia instead, and make bags/clothes out of leather). Give him the Mining labor at least, though, as all dwarves who aren't Wood Cutting or Hunting should be available as backup miners and emergency militia. (Moodable skill: Gem Cutting)
*Embalmer: 5 points in Brewing, 5 points in Leatherworking. Makes leather bags and armor early in the game, alcohol later. Assign him the Tanner and Butcher labors as well, until immigrants with better skills arrive, and the Miner labor, for the reasons stated above. (Moodable skill: Leatherworker)
*Iron Chef: 5 points in Cooking, 5 points in Weaponsmithing. Makes the steel when he isn't making a meal. Assign him the Furnace Operator and Wood Burner labors, until immigrants with better skills arrive, so he can make the raw materials of his craft, and the Miner labor on general principles. If you're unlucky with immigrants, or determined to make additional forges or metal armor right away, you can give him the Armorer and Blacksmith labors as well. (Moodable skill: Weaponsmith)
*Architect: 5 points in Mason, 5 points in Building Designer. Unlocks all buildings from the start, and will build nice stone ones that improve dwarven moods. The sheer amount of construction needed to build a secure and functional initial fort quickly may make it a good idea to turn OFF all labors for the Architect except Mason and Building Designer, at least until everyone and everything is safely underground. If you ever do finish building everthing you need, give him back any labors you turned off, and add Engraver (train him by smoothing stone first) and Miner labors as well. (Moodable skill: Mason)
*Mech Pilot: 5 points in Mechanic, 5 points in any skill you want. I used to think Ballistae were awesome, but sadly they only work well on paper, unless built (and crewed) in large numbers. If you still want to use them, putting his 5 points in Siege Engineer is better than Siege Operator, for high quality machines straight away. Build some extra catapults and sling rocks around for training when your dwarves have some free time, if you still want to use siege engines. Otherwise, you can give him a quick crafting skill, possibly one of the job skills the other dwarves would be training up from Dabbling (Armorer or Blacksmith would probably be the best). Don't attach a seriously time-consuming skill like Wood Burner or Furnace Operator, though, because this dwarf should mostly be making mechanisms for your cage traps. (Moodable skill: Mechanic)
Crafting and Gem Setter skills should be available through immigrants, but the Stonecraft skill can be trained up easily and cheaply from nothing by any dwarf that spends much time idle, if you absolutely must have something quickly. Fishing and Hunting can likewise usually wait until immigrants arrive with these skills. Chasing wolves around with your militia can be frustrating, but eventually one of them will make the mistake of trying to stand and fight, and even simple clothes can deflect most animals' teeth, claws, and horns (just don't go after bears without metal armor!).

Recommended embark items:
*1+ copper picks (use any leftover embark points to buy up to 5 spares)
*1 iron anvil, to guarantee you can make more picks quickly.
*1 wooden training axe, or battle axe if the "training axes can chop down trees" exploit is ever fixed. This will keep you from being left without fuel for the forge if you run out of wood, but can be skipped if you're embarking to an area where there are no trees (or if you're going to DIY it).
*1+ of each type of seed, mostly for the bags, as you will probably be surface farming with gathered plants until the caravans arrive anyhow. Note that quarry bush seeds are edible, and dwarves will often consume your whole initial stockpile before you can plant them.
*35-40 units of meat/fish, one from each different animal or fish that is available to your culture for 2 embark points per unit. This will give you enough meat to keep your dwarves fed until the first caravan arrives, and the maximum number of free barrels as well. Meat is generally preferred by dwarves over organs that aren't prepared in a kitchen first (meaning the barrels will be empty and available for other uses faster). Note that some animals may not have meat available (vermin like cave spiders, for example), in which case organs are preferable to nothing at all. Note that dwarven nutritional needs seem to have increased since the 31.12 patch; the original recommendation of 25-30 food probably won't even last you through summer, and getting this minimum might not even last through autumn without farming or hunting some extra.
*31 each of dwarven ale, dwarven beer, and dwarven rum. Dwarven wine will be produced in large quantities on site once subterranean farming is ready to grow Plump Helmets, and this should be enough alcohol to keep your dwarves happy until a caravan arrives with more if you need it. Dwarven alcohol needs have increased a bit too, it seems.
*Anything else that you may need more of than the site can provide right away:
**Wood, if the biomes are devoid of trees (glacier, mountain, desert, etc.).
**Metal ore, if you have plenty of trees but may need more/better metal than you are likely to find immediately (savage/evil biomes).
**Metal bars, if you need metal but trees are scarce.
**Weapons and armor, if you are mad enough to take on a Terrifying biome.
**Flux stone, if you want to make steel quickly but the embark site lacks chalk, limestone, or dolomite (marble and calcite are normally only found far too deep to be of much early use).
**Dogs, if you want a decent "militia" fairly quickly. Build a kennel and have the Boss train them into War Dogs. One male and the rest females will produce more dogs as quickly as possible.
**Plaster bags, for the hospital. You can usually find some plaster-making stones on site, but turning them into bags of plaster powder for setting bones is a difficult, time consuming, and fuel burning process, until you can build magma kilns. On the other hand, if you aren't expecting serious combat before the caravans arrive, you can usually buy more than you will ever use from them fairly cheap.
**Plump Helmets, as an emergency food/alcohol supply if you anticipate problems making a subterranean farm. Buy in quantities ending in 1, for the maximum number of free barrels. They're quite a bit more expensive than seeds, or other foodstuffs, but their utility makes up for that.

===The It-Do-Yourself Steel Option weApon Pair Strategy or TIDYSOAPS===

{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="3" style="text-align:center;float:right;margin:0 0 20px 30px;"
|-
! colspan="4" style="background-color:#eee;border-bottom:1px solid black;text-align:center;" | Embark Costs of Pre-made Implements
|-
!Material
!Battle Axes
!Picks
!Total Points
|-
|steel
|2
|
|2040p
|-
|steel
|
|2
|1320p
|-
|steel
|1
|1
|1680p
|-
|bronze
|2
|
|340p
|-
|bronze
|
|2
|220p
|-
|bronze
|1
|1
|280p
|-
|copper
|2
|
|136p
|-
|copper
|
|2
|88p
|-
|copper
|1
|1
|112p
|}
This is a power-gaming strategy that can be integrated as a component of a starting build, in lieu of a pair of steel weapons. In the current build, a steel pick costs 660p (embark points), and a steel battle axe costs 1020p. All told, we can get two steel implements at better {{L|Item quality|quality}} for 312p, more or less. (See the table at right for a comparison of embark costs.) The steel implements, able to double as weapons, can give your squishy {{L|Miner|Excavators}} and {{L|Wood cutter|Lumberjacks}} an advantage in battle.

You get two steel implements for a minimum total cost of '''172p'''. (312p with the skills, and those too will last you a lifetime.) It's steel for the price of {{L|bronze}}! What a... steal. *uncomfortable cough* This gives you a savings of up to 1868p, which means you roughly double-and-a-half your embark points. It just takes a bit of time and dwarf labor.

'''Prepare for the journey carefully:'''

At the {{L|Embark}} screen, choose the following items:

* Required
** 3p x 1 unit of {{L|fire-safe}} {{L|stone}} from the Stone category
** 100p x 1 {{L|iron}} {{L|anvil}}
** A distinct lack of {{L|steel}} weapons

* Main, cheapest, most desirable raw materials
** 24p x 2 units of iron {{L|ore}} from the Stone category ({{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, or {{L|Magnetite}})
** 6p x 2 units of {{L|flux}} stone from the Stone category ({{L|Calcite}}, {{L|Chalk}}, {{L|Dolomite}}, {{L|Limestone}}, or {{L|Marble}})
** 3p x 3 units of {{L|Bituminous coal}} from the Stone category
** 0p x3 logs of any type of {{L|wood}}
*** From deconstructing your {{L|Wagon}}
** 0p (No {{L|Skill|skills}} taken)

*'''Recommended''' but optional:140p (4 skills x 35p for embark skills at Proficient: {{L|Furnace operator}}, {{L|Wood burner}}, {{L|Metalsmith}} and {{L|Weaponsmith}})

You want more than two implements?

'''For each successive weapon pair: (72p)'''

The same scheme can be used to make more weapon pairs. For four implements, just double all of the raw materials and add an extra {{L|Bituminous coal}} to make up for the lack of wood from the wagon. Simply add more of the raw materials to provide for more pairs. The rough cost is 72p per successive pair. Your only constraint is more time and dwarfpower.

*For an extra pair of steel weapons:
**24p x 2 units of {{L|iron}} {{L|ore}} from the Stone category ({{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, or {{L|Magnetite}})
**6p x 2 units of {{L|flux}} {{L|stone}} from the Stone category ({{L|Calcite}}, {{L|Chalk}}, {{L|Dolomite}}, {{L|Limestone}}, or {{L|Marble}})
**3p x 4 units of {{L|Bituminous coal}} from the Stone category

'''Substitutes for above grocery lists:'''

Due to extenuating circumstances, such as the variability of the goods your {{L|Civilization|parent civilization}} has
available, some substitutes may be used:

* Substitutes
** Fuel:
*** 3p x 3 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of the Wagon wood
****Don't deconstruct wagon
*** 3p x 5 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of 3 Bituminous coal
**** Make 8 charcoal
*** 10p x 1 units of {{L|fuel|charcoal or coke}} and 1 Bituminous coal instead of wagon wood
**** Don't build wood furnace
*** 10p x 8 units of {{L|fuel|charcoal or coke}} instead of wood + coal
**** Skip wood furnace and coke making
** Single option sub. to save time:
*** 50p x 1 iron bar + 50p x 1 pig iron bar instead of 2 iron ores + 1 flux stone + 1 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood
*** 150p x 2 steel bars instead of 2 iron ore + 2 flux stone + 2 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood

'''Strike the earth!'''

* Deconstruct the {{L|Wagon}} your {{L|Embark|starting goods}} come in.
* Build a {{L|Wood furnace}} with the fire-safe stone
** Use 3 wood to make '''3''' charcoal
** Deconstruct the furnace

* Build a {{L|Smelter}} using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed furnace
** Smelt 3 bituminous coal (powered with 3 charcoal) --> into 9 units of coke
** Smelt 2 iron ores (powered with 2 coke) --> two iron bars
** Smelt '''ONE''' iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 1 pig iron bar
** Smelt 1 iron bar + 1 pig iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 2 steel bars
** Deconstruct the smelter

* Build a {{L|Metalsmith's forge}} using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed smelter + iron anvil
** Using 2 steel (powered with 1 coke) forge 2 weapons
** Deconstruct the forge

* At the end of which, all you will have left relevant to the strategy are:
** A unit of fire-safe rock
** Two steel weapons
** An iron anvil
** Possibly an extra coke

You could then, for instance, embark with several copper picks since pick material doesn't really help actual mining much{{Verify}}, then forge axes. Lots of them. Only 72p per pair. Wowza.
Why buy picks? If you're running this setup it's cheaper to get steel.

v0.31:Sample Starting Builds

2011-11-27T10:11:19Z

Nand:

The following are sample starting builds provided by users. They may be as specific as full skill and item specifications with a file that you can copy and paste to use yourself, or as general as suggestions on how you might set up your starting build.

===Ashery===
*Military: 5 armor use, 5 dodge. Possibly a mix of dodge and shield use instead of max dodge, but that's up in the air. Set to start training the moment goods are hauled inside the fort's entrance. Also does woodcutting as needed.
*Doctor/Leader: 1 appraise, 2 diagnose, 2 bone doctor, 2 surgeon, 2 wound dresser, 1 suture. Also serves as one of my primary miners and, once replacement miners come, the fort's first bookkeeper as well.
*Farmer/Cook: 4 farming, 5 cooking, 1 armorsmith. Does most of the early hauling grunt work, but eventually is restricted only to food related activities. No mining is done in order to keep armorsmithing as the highest moodable skill.
*Farmer/Brewer: 4 farming, 5 brewing, 1 armorsmith. Same as the cook.
*Weapon/Armorsmith: 5 armorsmith, 5 weaponsmith. Does a sizable amount of the early mining, but is removed from duty before the mining skill gets too high.
*Mason: 5 mason, 5 building design. Can help out with mining if necessary, but is usually busy constructing buildings or helping the farmers haul goods.
*Carpenter/Mechanic: 5 carpentry, 5 mechanic. An odd mix, but mechanisms are my primary export.

===Tarran===
*(every skill has five points put into it)
*2 miners/engravers (when they are not mining they are engraving)
*1 mason/carpenter (deals with all that stuff)
*1 mechanic/stonecrafter (when he is not making mechanisms he is making crafts)
*1 woodcutter/architect (when not cutting wood he is designing buildings)
*1 grower/brewer (deals with all my needs this early in the game)
*1 adequate armorsmith, weaponsmith, and metalcrafter. novice furnace operator, and wood burner (remove wood burner if you have magma)

===Ancient Enemy===
*Leader with all his points distributed through negotiation/bookkeeper/appraiser/etc.
*3 dwarves with proficient mining
*1 proficient grower
*1 proficient brewer
*1 proficient cook

===Proteus===
*Leader/Miner: 6-7 points into things important to become leader and broker (appraisal, negotiation, judge of intent, organizing and others, all at least with 1 pt), rest into mining
*Doc/Recordkeeper +at least another productive job: 1-2pts into diagnostics, 1pt in each other medical skill, 1pt in recordkeeping, rest into 1-2 jobs
*Cook: 4-5pts in cooking, 2-4pts in brewing, rest in fish cleaning and butchery
*Farmer: around 3-4pts in Growing, at least 1pt in milling, plant processing and brewing
*Crafter: Usually 5pts in stone crafting, rest in other crafting jobs (although that might change, as now bone carving has become next to worthless)
*Clothier: 2-4pts in leatherworking and clothier, rest into weaving and tanning
*Builder: Most of his points into Masonry, Engraving and Mechanics, as well as a few points into Carpenter (if no other dwarf already has pts in this job)

===Cronus===
*Miners/Mechanics: 2 dwarves with max points in mining and mechanics; get the fort, then those traps, up quickly.
*Woodcutter/Carpenter: points in woodcutting and carpentry; chop during initial dig then start pumping out beds and barrels
*Farmer/Brewer: points in farming and brewing; get the wheat and helmets in and brew during the off-season. Can also serve as butcher in a pinch.
*Crafter: points dispersed into stonecrafting, bonecarving, weaving, and leatherworking.
*Mason/Architect: points into masonry and building design. Allows a focus on walls, doors, and bridges.
*Leader/Trader: spread points among appraisal, negotiator, conversationalist, consoler, and comedian.

===Jake Grey===
* The Hunter: Ambusher, Marksdwarf, Hammerdwarf, Shield/Armour User, Dodger. Number two source of protein and useful military backup.
* The Catering Team: One Grower/Butcher/Fish Cleaner/Tanner and one Grower/Cook/Brewer/Plant Gatherer/Thresher. Usually get the Record Keeper and Appraiser points as well, since they have probably the safest jobs, and some points in mining to get things dug faster.
* The Artisans: One Carpenter/Woodcutter/Bone Carver, one Miner/Mason/Stone Crafter/Architect and one Miner/Metalsmith/Weaponsmith/Armoursmith/Furnace Operator. The blacksmith usually gets the Organiser points, as I don't embark with an anvil.
* "Dr Fisher": Adequate Diagnostician, Wound Dresser, Suturer, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Novice Fisherdwarf. The world's happiest on-call GP, feeds the fortress almost single-handed while waiting for someone to get injured.

===The Stoners===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts when needed)
*Miner/Mechanic (mines and makes levers or traps when needed)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all the furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Woodcutter (cuts wood, makes beds, bins, barrels, and cages if needed)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Grower/Brewer (farms, makes booze, and does most of the hauling early)
*Grower/Cook (farms, cooks food, and does most of the hauling early)

Supplies:
*2 Picks
*1 Battleaxe
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*5-10 of each seed
*Spend the rest of the points on anything else you want like plump helmets, animals, wood, and ores. Taking copper ores (malachite/copper nuggets) and tin ores (cassiterite) are a good choice since using them to make bronze is very cheap at 6 points per ore.

Notes:
*After hauling your wagon supplies indoors, have your smith work nonstop making fuel, smelting ores, and making weapons/armor. By the time your first migrants arrive you should have a full set of armor and a weapon for each. If not have the migrants help the smith out with smelting. Then draft them. By starting training early and having good gear your militia should do well.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts and any extra goods you have lying around like plump helmet roasts for example.

===Gemcutters===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts when needed)
*Miner/Gem Cutter (mines and cuts gems)
*Miner/Gem Setter (mines and encrusts gems into crafts and furniture)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Mechanic (makes beds, bins, barrels, cages, levers, and traps)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Farmer/Brewer (hauls early on until you hit the caverns, then will farm and brew)

Supplies:
*3 Picks
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 meat/fish/eggs
*15 plump helmets
*5 of each seed
*50 or so logs
*spend the rest on whatever else you want like animals and ores.

Notes:
*This is basically a variation of "The Stoners" build above, except modified to be used on a glacier type embark. The woodcutter is useless on glaciers so tons of wood is brought instead. The 2nd farmer is replaced with a 3rd miner in order to help find the caverns before your food runs out.
*Once you hit the caverns you can start farming on the mud. Be sure you draft your first few migrants and supply them with good gear using your smith; in order to defend yourself from anything that may be down there.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts/mugs encrusted with any gems you find.

===The Warriors ===
1 Miner (No secondary skill, he does all mining, all the time)
1 Carpenter/Mechanic
1 Mason/Brewer
1 Herbalist/Farmer
1 Axeman/Armor User
1 Spearman/Dodger
1 Swordman/Shield User

Supplies:
1 copper pick.
6 Iron Ore, 6 Flux Stone (For making steel weapons and helmets)
5 Magma safe stone (for first workshops)
15 Logs
15 Leather
5 Lye (For soapmaking)
Remaining points go to bronze-making supplies and/or steel making supplies, coal (or more logs).

Strategy:
The warriors are immediately set to forging their own gear, then quickly set to training. If you like ditch the mason/brewer and replace with a 4th warrior for 2 squads of 2 (maximum training speed). This setup is also ideal for piercing aquifers, since it is well-adapted to life on the surface, and the warriors can double as pump-operators.

===The Mining Guild===

The Dwarves:
*7 Proficient Miners

Supplies:
*7 Copper Picks
*100 Booze (25 of each type)
*100 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*25 Plump Helmets
*7 Logs

Notes:
*Seven miners to dig out your entire fort straight from the start with enough food/booze to last you a year or two. Let migrants fill the other roles your fortress will require.
*Don't bother hauling all these supplies. Just build a wall around your wagon site and make it accessible via a staircase underground.
*Use the 7 logs + the 3 from the wagon to make a cheap dormitory until a good carpenter migrates to you. Also make a small dining room so dwarves stop complaining.
*Plump Helmets are to be used for emergency booze only, not eaten. Keep them forbidden until enough barrels become empty.
*Now dig, dig EVERYTHING. Two hundred bedrooms, noble quarters, grand dining room, massive workshop floors, massive stockpile floors, magma smelting floors, massive tree farms, barracks, hospitals, wells, crypts, trap corridors, etc etc.

=== BillyBob and the Rock Nuts ===
{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="5"
!Profession
!Skills
|-
|FarmerBrewer
|Grower-5, Brewer-5
|-
|MinerMason
|Mining-5, Masonry-2, Engraving-3
|-
|MinerJeweller
|Mining-5, Masonry-1, GemCutting-4
|-
|LumberjackHerbalist
|Woodcutting-4,Herbalism-3, Axedwarf, Armor, Carpentry
|-
|CookDoctor
|Cook-3, Threshing-2, Diagnose, DressWounds, Suture, SetBones, Surgery
|-
|CarpenterLeader
|Carpentry-4, Leadership-3, Negotiate, Appraisal, Record Keeper
|-
|CrafterArchitect
|Stonecraft-5, Building Designer-4, Mechanic
|}
The lumberjack is the only one that _has_ to go outside, and all the rest can work indoors. Two main sources of income are farming (Sweet Pods->Dwarven Syrup) and Rock Crafting (to buy elven wood/barrels).

<pre>
[PROFILE]
[TITLE:BillyBob and the Rock Nuts]
[SKILL:1:MINING:5]
[SKILL:1:DETAILSTONE:3]
[SKILL:1:MASONRY:2]
[SKILL:2:MINING:5]
[SKILL:2:MASONRY:1]
[SKILL:2:CUTGEM:4]
[SKILL:3:WOODCUTTING:4]
[SKILL:3:CARPENTRY:1]
[SKILL:3:HERBALISM:3]
[SKILL:3:AXE:1]
[SKILL:3:ARMOR:1]
[SKILL:4:CARPENTRY:4]
[SKILL:4:NEGOTIATION:1]
[SKILL:4:APPRAISAL:1]
[SKILL:4:RECORD_KEEPING:1]
[SKILL:4:LEADERSHIP:3]
[SKILL:5:BREWING:5]
[SKILL:5:PLANT:5]
[SKILL:6:PROCESSPLANTS:2]
[SKILL:6:COOK:3]
[SKILL:6:DRESS_WOUNDS:1]
[SKILL:6:DIAGNOSE:1]
[SKILL:6:SURGERY:1]
[SKILL:6:SET_BONE:1]
[SKILL:6:SUTURE:1]
[SKILL:7:STONECRAFT:5]
[SKILL:7:MECHANICS:1]
[SKILL:7:DESIGNBUILDING:4]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_PICK:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_AXE_BATTLE:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:1:ANVIL:NONE:INORGANIC:IRON]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_WHEAT_CAVE:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:DRINK]
[ITEM:5:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:SEED]
[ITEM:12:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:SEED]
[ITEM:11:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:POD_SWEET:SEED]
[ITEM:11:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:MARMOT_HOARY:STOMACH]
[ITEM:11:PLANT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:STRUCTURAL]
[ITEM:1:THREAD:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:1:CLOTH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BOX:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:2:CHAIN:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BUCKET:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:SPLINT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:CRUTCH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:15:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:WARTHOG:MUSCLE]
[PET:2:DOG:FEMALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:1:DOG:MALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:2:CAT:FEMALE:STANDARD]
[PET:1:CAT:MALE:STANDARD]
</pre>

===Tatter's Ragtime Band===

Designed to pair important time-consuming skills with important but quickly completed skills, moodable skills with non-moodable skills, and generally embark only with skills that can't be trained from "unskilled" quickly (for example, no mining skills). Tailored to minimize bugs in versions 31.12.
*Boss: 5 points in Armor User, 1 point in Appraiser, Negotiator, Judge of Intent, Record Keeper, and Organizer. Will be your chief miner, militia commander, and all-around noble early on, and almost certainly will become expedition leader as well. As other dwarves arrive with mining and/or noble skills (even if they aren't as high-level as the Boss's), replace the Boss with them as soon as possible, to relieve his workload. Keep the Boss as your militia commander and broker, mining mostly to train his skill with a pick, until a dwarf with better skills for these tasks arrives. If you embark with dogs, give the Boss the Animal Trainer labor as well and have him train them into War Dogs for extra protection. Note: As of 31.12, training seems to finally be working as intended, making axe/sword/hammer/spear dwarves feasable. Swap the Armor User with any other weapon skills if you like, but Armor User seems to be the slowest skill to develop, and I personally prefer to stick with it for the Boss. Plus, picks being pretty crummy weapons will help if you decide to make a Sherrif or Captain of the Guard with poor weapon skills so punishing "crime" won't result in undue maiming. (Moodable skill: Mining)
*Doc: 5 points in Carpentry, 1 point in Diagnostician, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Suturer, and Wound Dresser. A doctor that can make his own beds, splints, and crutches (and tables and cabinets, if you have an excess of wood). Make him Chief Medical Dwarf right away, but replace him as soon as a better Diagnostician comes along. Make him a Plant Gatherer and Wood Cutter as well (until immigrants with better skills arrive), to give him something to do when he has nothing to build and nobody to heal. (Moodable skill: Carpentry)
*Rock Farmer: 5 points in Grower, 5 points in Gem Cutting. Farming is more difficult to set up than it used to be, but no less time consuming. Gem Cutting takes little time and provides the fortress with the highest-value, lowest-weight trade items you're likely to find early on. You can also make him a Plant Processor and/or Miller if you need the materials for emergency mood satisfaction and/or cooking, but these skills should be provided at higher levels by immigrants fairly quickly, and cloth isn't critical for an early fortress (hunt and butcher wildlife with your militia instead, and make bags/clothes out of leather). Give him the Mining labor at least, though, as all dwarves who aren't Wood Cutting or Hunting should be available as backup miners and emergency militia. (Moodable skill: Gem Cutting)
*Embalmer: 5 points in Brewing, 5 points in Leatherworking. Makes leather bags and armor early in the game, alcohol later. Assign him the Tanner and Butcher labors as well, until immigrants with better skills arrive, and the Miner labor, for the reasons stated above. (Moodable skill: Leatherworker)
*Iron Chef: 5 points in Cooking, 5 points in Weaponsmithing. Makes the steel when he isn't making a meal. Assign him the Furnace Operator and Wood Burner labors, until immigrants with better skills arrive, so he can make the raw materials of his craft, and the Miner labor on general principles. If you're unlucky with immigrants, or determined to make additional forges or metal armor right away, you can give him the Armorer and Blacksmith labors as well. (Moodable skill: Weaponsmith)
*Architect: 5 points in Mason, 5 points in Building Designer. Unlocks all buildings from the start, and will build nice stone ones that improve dwarven moods. The sheer amount of construction needed to build a secure and functional initial fort quickly may make it a good idea to turn OFF all labors for the Architect except Mason and Building Designer, at least until everyone and everything is safely underground. If you ever do finish building everthing you need, give him back any labors you turned off, and add Engraver (train him by smoothing stone first) and Miner labors as well. (Moodable skill: Mason)
*Mech Pilot: 5 points in Mechanic, 5 points in any skill you want. I used to think Ballistae were awesome, but sadly they only work well on paper, unless built (and crewed) in large numbers. If you still want to use them, putting his 5 points in Siege Engineer is better than Siege Operator, for high quality machines straight away. Build some extra catapults and sling rocks around for training when your dwarves have some free time, if you still want to use siege engines. Otherwise, you can give him a quick crafting skill, possibly one of the job skills the other dwarves would be training up from Dabbling (Armorer or Blacksmith would probably be the best). Don't attach a seriously time-consuming skill like Wood Burner or Furnace Operator, though, because this dwarf should mostly be making mechanisms for your cage traps. (Moodable skill: Mechanic)
Crafting and Gem Setter skills should be available through immigrants, but the Stonecraft skill can be trained up easily and cheaply from nothing by any dwarf that spends much time idle, if you absolutely must have something quickly. Fishing and Hunting can likewise usually wait until immigrants arrive with these skills. Chasing wolves around with your militia can be frustrating, but eventually one of them will make the mistake of trying to stand and fight, and even simple clothes can deflect most animals' teeth, claws, and horns (just don't go after bears without metal armor!).

Recommended embark items:
*1+ copper picks (use any leftover embark points to buy up to 5 spares)
*1 iron anvil, to guarantee you can make more picks quickly.
*1 wooden training axe, or battle axe if the "training axes can chop down trees" exploit is ever fixed. This will keep you from being left without fuel for the forge if you run out of wood, but can be skipped if you're embarking to an area where there are no trees (or if you're going to DIY it).
*1+ of each type of seed, mostly for the bags, as you will probably be surface farming with gathered plants until the caravans arrive anyhow. Note that quarry bush seeds are edible, and dwarves will often consume your whole initial stockpile before you can plant them.
*35-40 units of meat/fish, one from each different animal or fish that is available to your culture for 2 embark points per unit. This will give you enough meat to keep your dwarves fed until the first caravan arrives, and the maximum number of free barrels as well. Meat is generally preferred by dwarves over organs that aren't prepared in a kitchen first (meaning the barrels will be empty and available for other uses faster). Note that some animals may not have meat available (vermin like cave spiders, for example), in which case organs are preferable to nothing at all. Note that dwarven nutritional needs seem to have increased since the 31.12 patch; the original recommendation of 25-30 food probably won't even last you through summer, and getting this minimum might not even last through autumn without farming or hunting some extra.
*31 each of dwarven ale, dwarven beer, and dwarven rum. Dwarven wine will be produced in large quantities on site once subterranean farming is ready to grow Plump Helmets, and this should be enough alcohol to keep your dwarves happy until a caravan arrives with more if you need it. Dwarven alcohol needs have increased a bit too, it seems.
*Anything else that you may need more of than the site can provide right away:
**Wood, if the biomes are devoid of trees (glacier, mountain, desert, etc.).
**Metal ore, if you have plenty of trees but may need more/better metal than you are likely to find immediately (savage/evil biomes).
**Metal bars, if you need metal but trees are scarce.
**Weapons and armor, if you are mad enough to take on a Terrifying biome.
**Flux stone, if you want to make steel quickly but the embark site lacks chalk, limestone, or dolomite (marble and calcite are normally only found far too deep to be of much early use).
**Dogs, if you want a decent "militia" fairly quickly. Build a kennel and have the Boss train them into War Dogs. One male and the rest females will produce more dogs as quickly as possible.
**Plaster bags, for the hospital. You can usually find some plaster-making stones on site, but turning them into bags of plaster powder for setting bones is a difficult, time consuming, and fuel burning process, until you can build magma kilns. On the other hand, if you aren't expecting serious combat before the caravans arrive, you can usually buy more than you will ever use from them fairly cheap.
**Plump Helmets, as an emergency food/alcohol supply if you anticipate problems making a subterranean farm. Buy in quantities ending in 1, for the maximum number of free barrels. They're quite a bit more expensive than seeds, or other foodstuffs, but their utility makes up for that.

===The It-Do-Yourself Steel Option weApon Pair Strategy or TIDYSOAPS===

{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="3" style="text-align:center;float:right;margin:0 0 20px 30px;"
|-
! colspan="4" style="background-color:#eee;border-bottom:1px solid black;text-align:center;" | Embark Costs of Pre-made Implements
|-
!Material
!Battle Axes
!Picks
!Total Points
|-
|steel
|2
|
|2040p
|-
|steel
|
|2
|1320p
|-
|steel
|1
|1
|1680p
|-
|bronze
|2
|
|340p
|-
|bronze
|
|2
|220p
|-
|bronze
|1
|1
|280p
|-
|copper
|2
|
|136p
|-
|copper
|
|2
|88p
|-
|copper
|1
|1
|112p
|}
This is a power-gaming strategy that can be integrated as a component of a starting build, in lieu of a pair of steel weapons. In the current build, a steel pick costs 660p (embark points), and a steel battle axe costs 1020p. All told, we can get two steel implements at better {{L|Item quality|quality}} for 312p, more or less. (See the table at right for a comparison of embark costs.) The steel implements, able to double as weapons, can give your squishy {{L|Miner|Excavators}} and {{L|Wood cutter|Lumberjacks}} an advantage in battle.

You get two steel implements for a minimum total cost of '''172p'''. (312p with the skills, and those too will last you a lifetime.) It's steel for the price of {{L|bronze}}! What a... steal. *uncomfortable cough* This gives you a savings of up to 1868p, which means you roughly double-and-a-half your embark points. It just takes a bit of time and dwarf labor.

'''Prepare for the journey carefully:'''

At the {{L|Embark}} screen, choose the following items:

* Required
** 3p x 1 unit of {{L|fire-safe}} {{L|stone}} from the Stone category
** 100p x 1 {{L|iron}} {{L|anvil}}
** A distinct lack of {{L|steel}} weapons

* Main, cheapest, most desirable raw materials
** 24p x 2 units of iron {{L|ore}} from the Stone category ({{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, or {{L|Magnetite}})
** 6p x 2 units of {{L|flux}} stone from the Stone category ({{L|Calcite}}, {{L|Chalk}}, {{L|Dolomite}}, {{L|Limestone}}, or {{L|Marble}})
** 3p x 3 units of {{L|Bituminous coal}} from the Stone category
** 0p x3 logs of any type of {{L|wood}}
*** From deconstructing your {{L|Wagon}}
** 0p (No {{L|Skill|skills}} taken)

*'''Recommended''' but optional:140p (4 skills x 35p for embark skills at Proficient: {{L|Furnace operator}}, {{L|Wood burner}}, {{L|Metalsmith}} and {{L|Weaponsmith}})

You want more than two implements?

'''For each successive weapon pair: (72p)'''

The same scheme can be used to make more weapon pairs. For four implements, just double all of the raw materials and add an extra {{L|Bituminous coal}} to make up for the lack of wood from the wagon. Simply add more of the raw materials to provide for more pairs. The rough cost is 72p per successive pair. Your only constraint is more time and dwarfpower.

*For an extra pair of steel weapons:
**24p x 2 units of {{L|iron}} {{L|ore}} from the Stone category ({{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, or {{L|Magnetite}})
**6p x 2 units of {{L|flux}} {{L|stone}} from the Stone category ({{L|Calcite}}, {{L|Chalk}}, {{L|Dolomite}}, {{L|Limestone}}, or {{L|Marble}})
**3p x 4 units of {{L|Bituminous coal}} from the Stone category

'''Substitutes for above grocery lists:'''

Due to extenuating circumstances, such as the variability of the goods your {{L|Civilization|parent civilization}} has
available, some substitutes may be used:

* Substitutes
** Fuel:
*** 3p x 3 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of the Wagon wood
****Don't deconstruct wagon
*** 3p x 5 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of 3 Bituminous coal
**** Make 8 charcoal
*** 10p x 1 units of {{L|fuel|charcoal or coke}} and 1 Bituminous coal instead of wagon wood
**** Don't build wood furnace
*** 10p x 8 units of {{L|fuel|charcoal or coke}} instead of wood + coal
**** Skip wood furnace and coke making
** Single option sub. to save time:
*** 50p x 1 iron bar + 50p x 1 pig iron bar instead of 2 iron ores + 1 flux stone + 1 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood
*** 150p x 2 steel bars instead of 2 iron ore + 2 flux stone + 2 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood

'''Strike the earth!'''

* Deconstruct the {{L|Wagon}} your {{L|Embark|starting goods}} come in.
* Build a {{L|Wood furnace}} with the fire-safe stone
** Use 3 wood to make '''3''' charcoal
** Deconstruct the furnace

* Build a {{L|Smelter}} using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed furnace
** Smelt 3 bituminous coal (powered with 3 charcoal) --> into 9 units of coke
** Smelt 2 iron ores (powered with 2 coke) --> two iron bars
** Smelt '''ONE''' iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 1 pig iron bar
** Smelt 1 iron bar + 1 pig iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 2 steel bars
** Deconstruct the smelter

* Build a {{L|Metalsmith's forge}} using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed smelter + iron anvil
** Using 2 steel (powered with 1 coke) forge 2 weapons
** Deconstruct the forge

* At the end of which, all you will have left relevant to the strategy are:
** A unit of fire-safe rock
** Two steel weapons
** An iron anvil
** Possibly an extra coke

You could then, for instance, embark with several copper picks since pick material doesn't really help actual mining much{{Verify}}, then forge axes. Lots of them. Only 72p per pair. Wowza.
Why buy picks? If you're running this setup it's cheaper to get steel.