Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

40d:Repeater

2017-12-05T20:45:18Z

Mstram: /* Fluid repeater */

{{quality|Exceptional|21:04, 26 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}
A '''repeater''' is a device which creates a never-ending cyclic on/off signal. Several designs are possible, and they can be made to operate at varying rates. They (usually) use fluid or creatures to trigger pressure plates to create a cycle, continually trigger the plates, which can then also be linked to automatically and ceaselessly trigger external systems.

Fluid uses the natural flow and varying depths to trigger plates. Creatures use [[path|pathing]], opening and closing doors to attract the creature to step on the plates.

As a general warning, always have a way to turn off the repeater, and/or allow your dwarves later access for repairs or modifications.

===Fluid repeater===

One example [[fluid logic]] repeater (described on the [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=33563. forum] by [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?action=profile;u=16168 AncientEnemy]) is as follows:

≈≈≈≈≈ - river or brook
═╗≈╔═ - wall to channel out after construction
╠F╣ - shutoff floodgate ''(linked to exterior lever)''
║#║ - 1-tile drawbridge (linked to pressure plate)
║p┼ - pressure plate (set to 7-7 water), and access door
╠F╣ - floodgate (linked to pressure plate)
╚═╝

This repeater toggles fairly slowly, about once every 300 steps, making it suitable for operating [[bridge|bridges]], [[floodgate|floodgates]], and [[Trap#Upright Spear/Spike|upright spikes]]. As an added bonus, the bottom wall (immediately beyond the floodgate) can be removed and connected to a cistern whose water level will be automatically maintained at a level between 3 and 4 deep.

===Goblin repeater===

This is not as regular a repeater, but just as reliable in the long run.

A goblin or creature is placed (via [[Activity_zone#Pit.2FPond|pitting]]) in a loosely circular hall with one [[door]] and one [[bridge#Drawbridges|drawbridge]] leading to a single path out. Beyond these is the bait - an exit, a [[restrain|restrained]] animal, or just your fortress in general - something the creature wants<sup>1</sup>. One path is open, and the goblin heads that way to kill the animal. A pressure plate is stepped on, which shuts one path and opens the other<sup>2</sup> (and triggers an exterior system). The goblin reconsiders his path, and heads back around for the other hallway - where the process is repeated.

# For instance, if using a [[rhesus macaque]], some item of value would suffice to attract the creature.
# Doors and drawbridges open alternately when connected to a [[trigger]].

A A = bait animal (or similar)
╔════════════╝ ╚═══════════╗
║ ┼║ ┼ ║ ┼ = access (bridge or door), currently open
║ ╔═════════════════════╗ ║ ┼║= access, currently shut
║ ║ ║ ║
║ ╚═════════════════════╝ ║ P = pressure plate
║ g -> P ║ g = goblin, w/ current path
╚═══════════════════════════╝

The only caveat is to make sure there is enough room between the pressure plate and door/bridge, to give them time to shut well before the goblin gets there. Additional mechanized doors or a cage trap may be desired if you ever wish to "turn off" the repeater without killing the goblin/creature (by safely isolating it).

===Pump-based repeater===

This repeater will send regular signals at a frequency determined by the speed of [[pressure plate]] recovery. Basic design consists of 4 [[screw pump]]s and 4 [[pressure plate]]s but other versions are possible, depending on the number of separate steps you need.

[http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=34407.msg572324#msg572324 Forum thread] with description and explanations.

[http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-1370-pump-basedautorepeater DFMA movie] showing a pump-based repeater in action.

See also: [[User:MrFake/NStepCyclicRepeater]]

{|
|-
|Level 0
|Level -1
|Level -2
|-
|{{diagram|color=#808080|
██████
██[#ff0]☼███
█[#00f]☼[#c0c0c0]☼[#c0c0c0]☼[#808000]═[#808000]═
███[#c0c0c0]☼[#f00]☼█
███[#0f0]☼██
██████}}
|{{diagram|color=#808080|
██████
█[#000]█[#0f0]÷[#008000]÷[#000]██
█[#008000]÷██[#0f0]÷█
█[#0f0]÷██[#008000]÷█
█[#000]█[#008000]÷[#0f0]÷[#000]██
██████}}
|{{diagram|color=#808080|
██████
█[#f00]^██[#0f0]^█
██████
██████
█[#ff0]^██[#00f]^█
██████}}
|}

{{Raw Tile|÷|#0f0|#000}}{{Raw Tile|÷|#008000|#000}} is a screw pump which pumps from the light side to the dark side. {{Raw Tile|^|#f00|#000}} is a pressure plate which disengages gear {{Raw Tile|☼|#f00|#000}} when water of depth 1-7 lands on it. The red, green, blue, and yellow pressure plates and gears are color coded only to show which is linked to which. In the game they'll all look like {{Raw Tile|^|#f0f|#000}} and {{Raw Tile|☼|#c0c0c0|#000}}. Building a pump after the gear which powers it or a gear after the pressure plate which disengages it will introduce a 1-step delay; so, depending on build order, the repeater might have a period between 400 and 408 steps. If the pumps, gears, and pressure plates are built in that order, then this system will repeat every 400 steps, exactly. Start the repeater by using a pond zone to dump 2 buckets of water onto any one of the plates.

{{Category|Constructions}}
{{Category|Computing}}

40d:Repeater

2017-12-05T20:43:47Z

Mstram: /* Fluid repeater */ forum / profile links fixed

{{quality|Exceptional|21:04, 26 April 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}
A '''repeater''' is a device which creates a never-ending cyclic on/off signal. Several designs are possible, and they can be made to operate at varying rates. They (usually) use fluid or creatures to trigger pressure plates to create a cycle, continually trigger the plates, which can then also be linked to automatically and ceaselessly trigger external systems.

Fluid uses the natural flow and varying depths to trigger plates. Creatures use [[path|pathing]], opening and closing doors to attract the creature to step on the plates.

As a general warning, always have a way to turn off the repeater, and/or allow your dwarves later access for repairs or modifications.

===Fluid repeater===

One example [[fluid logic]] repeater (described on the [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=33563. forum] by [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?action=profile;u=16168]) is as follows:

≈≈≈≈≈ - river or brook
═╗≈╔═ - wall to channel out after construction
╠F╣ - shutoff floodgate ''(linked to exterior lever)''
║#║ - 1-tile drawbridge (linked to pressure plate)
║p┼ - pressure plate (set to 7-7 water), and access door
╠F╣ - floodgate (linked to pressure plate)
╚═╝

This repeater toggles fairly slowly, about once every 300 steps, making it suitable for operating [[bridge|bridges]], [[floodgate|floodgates]], and [[Trap#Upright Spear/Spike|upright spikes]]. As an added bonus, the bottom wall (immediately beyond the floodgate) can be removed and connected to a cistern whose water level will be automatically maintained at a level between 3 and 4 deep.

===Goblin repeater===

This is not as regular a repeater, but just as reliable in the long run.

A goblin or creature is placed (via [[Activity_zone#Pit.2FPond|pitting]]) in a loosely circular hall with one [[door]] and one [[bridge#Drawbridges|drawbridge]] leading to a single path out. Beyond these is the bait - an exit, a [[restrain|restrained]] animal, or just your fortress in general - something the creature wants<sup>1</sup>. One path is open, and the goblin heads that way to kill the animal. A pressure plate is stepped on, which shuts one path and opens the other<sup>2</sup> (and triggers an exterior system). The goblin reconsiders his path, and heads back around for the other hallway - where the process is repeated.

# For instance, if using a [[rhesus macaque]], some item of value would suffice to attract the creature.
# Doors and drawbridges open alternately when connected to a [[trigger]].

A A = bait animal (or similar)
╔════════════╝ ╚═══════════╗
║ ┼║ ┼ ║ ┼ = access (bridge or door), currently open
║ ╔═════════════════════╗ ║ ┼║= access, currently shut
║ ║ ║ ║
║ ╚═════════════════════╝ ║ P = pressure plate
║ g -> P ║ g = goblin, w/ current path
╚═══════════════════════════╝

The only caveat is to make sure there is enough room between the pressure plate and door/bridge, to give them time to shut well before the goblin gets there. Additional mechanized doors or a cage trap may be desired if you ever wish to "turn off" the repeater without killing the goblin/creature (by safely isolating it).

===Pump-based repeater===

This repeater will send regular signals at a frequency determined by the speed of [[pressure plate]] recovery. Basic design consists of 4 [[screw pump]]s and 4 [[pressure plate]]s but other versions are possible, depending on the number of separate steps you need.

[http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=34407.msg572324#msg572324 Forum thread] with description and explanations.

[http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-1370-pump-basedautorepeater DFMA movie] showing a pump-based repeater in action.

See also: [[User:MrFake/NStepCyclicRepeater]]

{|
|-
|Level 0
|Level -1
|Level -2
|-
|{{diagram|color=#808080|
██████
██[#ff0]☼███
█[#00f]☼[#c0c0c0]☼[#c0c0c0]☼[#808000]═[#808000]═
███[#c0c0c0]☼[#f00]☼█
███[#0f0]☼██
██████}}
|{{diagram|color=#808080|
██████
█[#000]█[#0f0]÷[#008000]÷[#000]██
█[#008000]÷██[#0f0]÷█
█[#0f0]÷██[#008000]÷█
█[#000]█[#008000]÷[#0f0]÷[#000]██
██████}}
|{{diagram|color=#808080|
██████
█[#f00]^██[#0f0]^█
██████
██████
█[#ff0]^██[#00f]^█
██████}}
|}

{{Raw Tile|÷|#0f0|#000}}{{Raw Tile|÷|#008000|#000}} is a screw pump which pumps from the light side to the dark side. {{Raw Tile|^|#f00|#000}} is a pressure plate which disengages gear {{Raw Tile|☼|#f00|#000}} when water of depth 1-7 lands on it. The red, green, blue, and yellow pressure plates and gears are color coded only to show which is linked to which. In the game they'll all look like {{Raw Tile|^|#f0f|#000}} and {{Raw Tile|☼|#c0c0c0|#000}}. Building a pump after the gear which powers it or a gear after the pressure plate which disengages it will introduce a 1-step delay; so, depending on build order, the repeater might have a period between 400 and 408 steps. If the pumps, gears, and pressure plates are built in that order, then this system will repeat every 400 steps, exactly. Start the repeater by using a pond zone to dump 2 buckets of water onto any one of the plates.

{{Category|Constructions}}
{{Category|Computing}}

Construction removal

2017-11-30T00:02:00Z

Mstram: To "designated" a construction .... -> designate

{{Quality|Fine|03:22, 22 September 2014 (UTC)}}
{{Labor
| labor = Construction removal
| tasks =
* {{k|n}} Remove [[construction]]s}}
{{av}}
Dwarves with the '''construction removal''' [[labor]] enabled (default) will remove any constructions designated for removal. To designate a construction for removal, open the {{k|d}} [[designations menu]] and select {{k|n}} Remove Construction.

A dwarf will (temporarily) cancel the removal of a walkable tile if another creature is standing on the tile. He won't cancel, though, if *he* is the one standing on the tile (as a result of a "creature swap", for instance), making construction removal at least moderately dangerous work.{{bug|8253}}

{{labors}}

User:SL/Borg Logic Gates

2014-01-15T12:01:56Z

Mstram: .net -> .org

I'm mostly just pondering borg logic at the moment.

In order to make borg logic reliable without forcing dwarves to stand around, we may need to base it on a memory gate first. The memory gate requires either water or an animal:
This one uses water: http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:SL/Logic_Gates#Memory
This one uses a kitten (or other animal): http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:Bidok#Memory

If you use my water-based memory gate, put it on top of a reservoir, aquifer, or ocean. If you use Bidok's, just make sure the door is non-pet-passable, put an animal inside, and have the door leads to a hall that leads to the activity zone (whereever the pets meet normally).

As I design each gate, I'll explain what to link the SET and CLEAR inputs and the OUTPUT to.

Note: It is possible for both the SET and CLEAR outputs to be triggered at the same time on the memory gate with these designs. With the water-based memory gate, this may result in an unpredictible output for a small amount of time. With the kitten based gate, well, I'm not sure what the kitten will do. The hatch would be open, so it couldn't try to go to the door, but would it try to walk up to the hatch, or would it keep standing on the pressure plate until the hatch closed?

Also, these gates are only theoretical and have not yet been tested.

So far, from the NOT gate's design, it looks like these would probably respond slowly (slower than water gates), and would disrupt dwarf tasks on top of it. Not so good. Hmm.

=== NOT gate ===
###
B^B
B^B
B^B
O#O
FvF
FvF
FvF
###

'O': Service doors, normally locked - so that you can get in to perform maintenance on the pressure plates and whatnot.
INPUT : All the floodgates, labelled F, and the bars or grates, labelled B. Your input is some lever, or something else, which you want to negate the value of.
SET OUTPUT: 'v' tiles are pressure plates set to detect dwarves, linked to the SET output on a memory gate. They are given a pathing priority with the highest possible value (Important!). They should each also be linked to the adjacent 'F's or 'B's in case a dwarf is trapped inside.
CLEAR OUTPUT: '^' tiles are pressure plates set to detect dwarves, linked to the CLEAR output on a memory gate.

How it works: If the INPUT is ON, the doors are opened, and newly calculated paths will be routed over the SET OUTPUT pressure plates. If the doors are closed, newly calculated paths will be routed over the CLEAR OUTPUT pressure plates instead. This will unfortunately cause dwarves who have already calculated a path through the now-closed doors to run into the doors and exclaim "WTF."

That's all so far. From the looks of it, it probably isn't worth working on any further, so I wouldn't expect anything further on this page.

User:SL/Logic Gates

2014-01-15T11:55:28Z

Mstram: .net -> .org

This page may contain references to bugs in older versions of DF which no longer exist, for example catastrophic overflowing. I haven't messed with these in DF recently, but pumps shouldn't pump water up to their own z-level anymore.

I'm pondering borg logic gates here as of 2/15/2010: http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/User:SL/Borg_Logic_Gates

This includes:
* [[#NOT_gate|NOT]], [[#AND_gate|AND]], [[#OR_gate|OR]], and [[#XOR_gate|XOR gates]]. [[#NOR_gate|NOR]] and [[#NAND_gate|NAND gates]] have single-sentence instructions, since you can build them by changing one pressure plate in an OR or AND gate, respectively.
* [[#Repeater|Repeater]] (which repeatedly toggles the output signals (it has two) between ON and OFF)
* [[#Memory|Memory]] - intended for replacing one-use pressure plates with resettable versions (one SET input signal, one CLEAR input signal, one output signal)

The most useful things are the repeater and memory, in my opinion, but the others can be useful too.

==Example uses for each gate==
[[#Repeater|Repeater]]: Repeatedly toggling things between ON and OFF states (like hatches, spikes, etc)

[[#Memory|Memory]]: Making resettable one-use pressure plates which are reset by a lever. When the SET input (from one of the aforementioned pressure plates) is triggered, the memory changes its output to the ON state until it receives the CLEAR (reset) signal. The pressure plate turning off does not turn off the memory's output.

[[#NOT_gate|NOT gate]]: Reversing the effect of a switch or creature-sensing pressure plate, generally linked to a memory device. You can, of course, mod the memory device to send the opposite signal instead of using a NOT gate.

[[#AND_gate|AND gate]]: Requiring more than one condition to be true for something to occur. For instance, a system on/off switch and the output of a memory device could both be linked to an AND gate, and the AND gate's output could be linked to a repeater. The repeater would not run if the system on/off switch was OFF, or if the memory device was not outputting ON.

[[#OR_gate|OR gate]]: You could link two 1-7 water sensors to an OR gate, and link that to a NOT gate, and link that to some floodgates or doors which act as emergency bulkheads, closing when water is detected in the area. Or, link the OR gate to bridges which raise instead (but you may crush things, and bridges are slower than doors).

[[#XOR_gate|XOR gate]]: If you wanted hallways with raising bridge bulkheads which closed if water approached but opened if water got past them, you could build a water 1-7 pressure plate on either end of the hallway, outside the bulkheads, and link them to an XOR whose output is linked to the bulkheads. When water reaches one pressure plate, the bridge bulkheads would both raise. If the water was moving so fast that it filled most of the hall before the bulkheads closed, and it then reached the second bulkhead some time later, both bulkheads would open. I'm not sure how this would actually be *useful*, though. :P

[[#NOR_gate|NOR gate]]: A NOR gate returns TRUE (ON) only if both inputs are FALSE. Instead of using the OR gate example with a NOT gate, you could use a NOR gate linked to two 1-7 water sensors, whose output goes to doors or floodgates. When the pressure plates are both waterless, the floodgates will be open. When one detects water, the floodgates close. (If you used 0-0 pressure plates with an OR, you would get an OFF signal if both plates detected water, or an ON signal otherwise (which is the same as 1-7 NAND 1-7))

[[#NAND_gate|NAND gate]]: A NAND gate returns TRUE (ON) whenever both inputs are not both TRUE (e.g. ON NAND ON is OFF, but every other combination is ON). Instead of the OR NOT or NOR example, you could link two 0-0 water sensors to a NAND gate, and link the NAND gate's output to raising bridges. 0-0 NAND 0-0 is the same as 1-7 OR 1-7. If there is no water on both pressure plates, the NAND gate will output an OFF signal. If, however, either has water, it will output an ON signal.

==Bigger example of something useful==
Example combination of devices to make invaders trigger repeating spikes until you disable them via a lever, and to allow you to turn the device completely off and make it not activate even if something walks over the pressure plates:
* Devices required: Pressure plates, spikes, memory, repeater, AND gate, two levers, optional NOT gate for one of the levers.

* '''System On/Off Switch''': A lever, hooked to AND gate's first input. Should be ON when you want the device to work, and OFF when you want it to not work. If you want it reversed, then instead hook the lever to a NOT gate's input and hook the NOT gate's output to the AND gate's first input.
* '''Invaders Fled Switch''': A lever, hooked to Memory's CLEAR input. Pull (switch to ON) to make the repeater shut down, then pull again (switch to OFF) to set the lever up for the next time it has to be used.
* '''Pressure plates''' for detecting Mobile Bad Things: Each one is hooked to memory's SET input. Place a row of these in your entrance or what have you, so that there's no way to get past them without stepping on one.
* '''[[#Memory|Memory]]''': SET input hooked to all of the aforementioned pressure plates. CLEAR input hooked to Invaders Fled switch. Output hooked to AND gate's second input.
* '''[[#AND_gate|AND gate]]''': First input hooked to System On/Off Switch. Second input hooked to Memory's output. Output hooked to Repeater's ENABLE input.
* '''[[#Repeater|Repeater]]''': ENABLE input hooked to AND gate's output. First output hooked to checkerboard black square spikes. Second input hooked to checkerboard white square spikes.
* '''Checkerboard patterned spikes:'''
** Black squares: All hooked to repeater's first output.
** White squares: All hooked to repeater's second output.
* Note: Spikes take about twice as long as hatches or doors to respond to signals. Bridges are also slow. (I haven't tried floodgates, since doors are fast)

Demonstration of one repeater hooked to both spikes and hatches, showing the speed difference etc: http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-281-repeaterinaction

==What you need to make these==
These gates use water for computing, but input and output signals are mechanical in nature (linked pressure plates etc). They require power and are constructed on top of (ideally) a murky pool, (non-pressurized) dwarf-made cistern, river, stream, brook, or aquifer. Each one uses one or two pumps only, so the power requirements are small.

The ideal thing to build these on top of would be an aquifer, since it is capable of absorbing huge amounts of water while also providing huge amounts fairly rapidly. Building on a river or stream may be dangerous (maybe only if the river is entirely 7/7 despite the gates' pump) - it is possible to cause a catastrophic overflow centered on the pump which can only be ended by blocking the pump's input square with a hatch or disconnecting it from power. Damming the river MIGHT prevent an overflow, but would not stop one that is already in progress. {{version|33g}}

You could theoretically replace the pump and input hatch with a hatch in a channel above the pump output square, and provide water from above. You'd have to be sure to floor over the top of the gates, though, to make sure that the pressurized water doesn't overflow, and you'd have to be careful about overflow from whereever the water drains to, too (if it fills to 7/7 it could flow up through other drain channels, or stairs, etc).

===Advice for building these on pools===
* These gates slowly deplete the water source which they are connected to while pumping, if it is a finite source (e.g. a murky pool).
* Running them on top of a a pool which is filled to 7/7 is safe.
* Refilling a pool to 7/7 from another water source is (usually) safe.
* Running a pump on top of a pool which is connected to a water source is, however, NOT safe.
* If you want to build gates on murky pools or dwarf-made cisterns, the best thing to do is to provide a means of disabling all the gates remotely (lever linked to gear assemblies between the gates and power, for instance), and provide a connection to an infinite source (river, brook, aquifer, or the like) via a floodgate which is controlled by another lever. Disable your gates prior to refilling, then open the floodgate to refill, then close the floodgate to disconnect the pool from the water source, and only then re-enable the gates. The pressurization and overflow problem can (theoretically) only occur on a murky pool if something refills the pool while there is water in the logic gates (But I'm not 100% certain about that).
* Make sure your refiller's source (pumps are sources, or a water source if it's directly connected to it without pumps) is on the same z level as the pool, or you will likely cause a castastrophic overflow even if you don't have any gates on top of it.

===General advice and information on variants===
Keep in mind that there IS a delay in operation with these gates due to the delay in hatch response to pressure plate signals. (Doors, by the way, respond at the same speed as hatches. Bridges are slower.)

I've built two variants of these gates, 'Faster' and 'Safer'.

===='''Short description of both variants'''====
* 'Faster' is faster but can become unreliable if the pump runs out of water. In practice, the 'faster' pumps usually will run out of water in a murky pool, or in a river which is flowing from the output's side towards the drain's side (haven't tried the other way, but it might work better).
* 'Safer' has blocked drains when sending an ON* signal, so it is safer, but generally switches from ON* to OFF* a little more slowly than 'Faster'.
* * = For NOT, NAND, and NOR gates, swap ON and OFF in the previous sentence to get the correct meaning.

===='''Detail'''====
* The 'Faster' variant does not use bridges to prevent water from draining while it is being pumped, whereas the 'Safer' variant does. This causes the 'Faster' gates to switch states faster when the 'Safer' bridges would be lowering, but if the water source is low, the gate can become unreliable. In testing, a 'Faster' NOT gate (for instance) sending an OFF signal, built on a small murky pool, periodically flips its output ON for a couple seconds. The 'safer' variant does not become unreliable unless you run almost completely out of water in the entire pool/brook/etc, but switching can be a little bit slower in one direction due to the bridges.
* Larger murky pools, and having your input in the center instead of the edge of the pool, or in a strong river or the like (especially if you pump from the river feed end towards the river drain end, or better still, if river water enters the map from both ends of the river (Hard to tell unless you try to drain it!)), should reduce the likelihood of the 'Faster' variant becoming unreliable.

===='''Useful note for 'Safer' '''====
* You can mitigate the slowdown for 'safer' variants by changing all 4-7 pressure plates to 7-7, and all 0-3 to 0-6, if you are building on a river or aquifer. If your water level is low, however, this will make the gates take longer to switch to ON*, or they may never turn on. (That will not work at all on the repeater because of the way it tests water depth at water level instead of in a pump-fed chamber)
* * = For NOT, NAND, and NOR gates, replace ON with OFF in that sentence.

==Gate Diagrams==

All diagrams are top-down.

===Common symbols in the diagrams===
* # is a wall.
* @> is a pump which pumps from west to east. An @ with a v below it pumps from north to south (the only one of these is in the OR gate).
* H is a hatch, almost always over water.
* ^ is a pressure plate.
* . is a channel over water.

Doors for maintenance and construction are not shown. You may replace any walls with doors (as long as DF allows it). I generally have two doors per gate.

Power sources are not shown. You will probably want to build windmills on top of these, but you can provide power in any way you see fit.

===NOT gate===
====Faster====
#######
#H@>^.#
#######
====Safer====
########
#H@>^B.#
########

====Details====
* The H is a hatch which should be over open water. The @> is a pump which pumps from the west, to the east. The ^ is a water 0-3 pressure plate. The . is a channel, which is connected to the water source below.
* For the safer variant, the B is a 1x1 bridge which raises to the west. It should be linked to your input signal.
* The H is linked to your input signal.
* The ^ is linked to your output devices.
* You will need a windmill or the like to power the pump.

====How this works====
* If the input is OFF, the hatch will be closed, water will not be pumpable, and water already on the pressure plate will and evaporate or go down the drain.
* If the input is ON, the hatch will be open, allowing water to be pumped up. The pump pumps water fast enough to keep the pressure plate above 3 water, keeping the output signal OFF.
* In the safer variant, the bridge will block water when the input is ON, keeping it on the pressure plate.

===AND gate===
====Faster====
########
#H@>D^.#
########
====Safer====
#########
#H@>D^B.#
######B##
###

====Details====
* The H is a hatch which should be over open water. The @> is a pump which pumps from the west, to the east. The D is a door. The ^ is a water 4-7 pressure plate. The . is a channel, which is connected to the water source below.
* The H is linked to your first input signal.
* The D is linked to your second input signal.
* The ^ is linked to your output devices.
* For the safer variant, each B is a 1x1 bridge which raises west. Each one should be linked to a different input signal.
* You will need a windmill or the like to power the pump.

====How this works====
* Both inputs have to be ON to allow water to reach the pressure plate.
* For the safer variant, if either input is OFF there will be a path through one bridge to the drain. It is only blocked when both are ON.

===OR gate===
====Faster====
###
#H#
#@#
####v#
#H@>^##
#####.#
###

====Safer====
Replace the bottom-right 3x3 area with this 5x3 area:
^####
#BB.#
#####

====Details====
* Note that the safer OR gate is quite a bit slower at shutting off than the faster one, due to the added distance to the drain as well as the bridge delay.
* The Hs are hatches which should be over open water. The @> is a pump which pumps from the west to the east, and the @v is a pump which pumps from the north to the south. The ^ is a water 4-7 pressure plate. The . is a channel, which is connected to the water source below.
* The top H is linked to your first input signal. The bottom H is linked to your second input signal.
* The ^ is linked to your output devices.
* You will need a windmill or the like to power the pump.
* For the safer variant, each B is a 1x1 bridge raising west, each of which should be linked to a different input signal.

====How this works====
* If either input is ON, water will flow into the center and cover the pressure plate.
* For the safer variant, if either input is ON the path to the drain will be blocked. Both have to be OFF for the drain to be accessible.

===XOR gate===
====Faster====
########
#H@>B###
#H@>B^.#
########
====Safer====
#########
#H@>B#DD##
#H@>B^BB.#
##########

====Details====
* The Hs are hatches which should be over open water. The @> are pumps which pump from the west, to the east. The ^ is a water 4-7 pressure plate. Each B is a 1x1 bridge which raises west. Each . is a channel, which is connected to the water source below.
* The top H is linked to your first input signal. The bottom H is linked to your second input signal.
* The top (top-left if you're using 'safer') B is linked to your second input signal. The bottom (bottom-left if you're using 'safer') B is linked to your first input signal.
* The ^ is linked to your output devices.
* You will need a windmill or the like to power the pumps.
* For the safer variant: The Ds are doors. For the following instructions, consider 'left' to be the leftmost in the set of two doors/bridges to the right, and consider 'right' to be the rightmost one. The left door and the right bridge should be linked to the first input, and the right door and the left bridge should be linked to the second input.

====How this works====
* If no inputs are ON, the hatches are closed, and the bridges are all lowered (passable). Any water in the system will drain, and none will be pumped.
* If one input is ON, one hatch will be open, and one bridge will be blocking. Water will flow through the non-blocking bridge, so the pressure plate will be triggered.
* If both inputs are ON, both hatches will be open, but both bridges will be blocking. Water will not reach the pressure plate.
* For the safer variant's drain:
* * If no inputs are ON, both right bridges are passable and both doors are closed. Water will flow over the bridges.
* * If the first input is ON, the left bridge will be raised (blocking), the right door will be open, and the left door will be closed. Water can not reach the drain.
* * If the second input is ON, the right bridge will be raised (blocking), the left door will be open, and the right door will be closed. Water can not reach the drain.
* * If both inputs are ON, both bridges will be raised (blocking), and both doors will be open. Water will flow through the open doors.

===NOR gate===
Identical to the OR gate, except that the pressure plate is 0-3 instead of 4-7.

===NAND gate===
Identical to the AND gate, except that the pressure plate is 0-3 instead of 4-7.

===Repeater===
* This is two levels in size. The bottom level should be at the same level as a water source such as a murky pond.
* X is a floodgate which allows or disallows water entering the system. @> is a pump which draws from the west and pumps to the east.
* ~ is the water source. Ideally it should actually be a solid dirt/rock/whatever tile on the side of a pool/river/whatever before you start construction. You can install the floodgate first, and then dig your channel above, which will let the tile fill with water.
* There is only one version of this, no 'faster' or 'safer' variants. (2 or more of these will increase the frequency(speed), however they have to be desynchronized)

====Bottom level====
####
#^^X~
####

====Top level====
######
#H@>.#
######

====Details====
* The hatch (H) should be just above the leftmost (4-7) pressure plate, and should be linked to it.
* The floodgate (X) is your ENABLE input. Hook it to something to enable or disable the system. (An ON signal enables the repeater, an OFF signal causes it to stop repeating after a short delay)
* The left pressure plate is water 4-7, and the right pressure plate is water 0-1. The right pressure plate is ... iffy. Whether it flips regularly or not depends on how fast water enters the gate. It appears that once the repeater is turned on, it may take a minute or two for the right pressure plate to begin flipping regularly (the repeater seems to somehow slow down how fast water enters it after a minute or so of running).
* The left pressure plate and the right pressure plate can be linked to different things that need to toggle repeatedly. The left pressure plate is very reliable. The right one is not so reliable. It will generally (if it's working) be ON while the left one is OFF, and vice versa.
* You may optionally want to hook an additional lever to the hatch in order to open it temporarily to allow full draining in the event that you need to let dwarves into the repeater body. That would be your MAINTENANCE input.

===Memory===
* The primary purpose for this is replacing one-use pressure plates with resettable versions which use this device to remember the ON signal from the pressure plate until a lever (or whatnot) is flipped to clear it.
* This has two input signals (SET and CLEAR), and one output signal.
* Note: If either the SET or CLEAR signals are levers, you should flip them off again after flipping them on.

====Diagram====
#######
#H@>^H#
#######

====Details====
* The Hs are hatches which should be over open water. The @> is a pump which pumps from the west, to the east. The ^ is a water 7-7 pressure plate.
* The left H is linked to your SET input signal. The right H is linked to your CLEAR input signal.
* The ^ is linked to your output devices.
* You will need a windmill or the like to power the pump.

====How this works====
* When the SET signal is received (e.g. the pressure plate is stepped on, whatever), the left hatch opens, and the pump fills the right compartment with water. Our pressure plate (the output) flips to ON.
* When the SET signal is no longer being received, the pump can no longer pump, but the compartment remains filled, so the pressure plate remains ON.
* When the CLEAR signal is received, the right hatch opens, and the water drains. If the hatch is not open for very long, enough will still drain that our pressure is no longer at 7/7 water, so it will flip OFF.
* If the SET signal and CLEAR signal are both ON at the same time, the output is unknown and possibly unpredictable: If the pump can hold the pressure plate tile at 7/7 despite the drain, it will be ON. If it runs out of water to pump and the tile stays below 7/7, it will be OFF. If it oscillates between 7/7 and lower values, you may (or may not, depending on the speed at which it changes) get seemingly random signals from the output.

====Extra notes on the Memory device====
* If you want to avoid the simultaneous SET + CLEAR = INSANITY problem (As described in the last note in the "How this works" section), and do not mind CLEARing taking a little longer, you may use a 4-7 pressure plate instead of a 7-7 one. This should result in an ON signal whenever both SET and CLEAR are ON at the same time. Note that if you aren't having that problem (it's staying at 7/7 despite the drain), if your water source depletes over time the problem may start occuring some time in the future.
* Sending multiple SET or CLEAR signals is harmless, which means you can hook as many pressure plates as you want up to one memory's SET input.

User:Mstram

2014-01-07T13:49:41Z

Mstram:

http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Note
http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Activity_zone

http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Adder_%28Computing%29

http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/Utility:Stonesense

http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Workshop
http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Mechanism

User:Mstram

2014-01-07T12:47:48Z

Mstram: Created page with "http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Note http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Activity_zone http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Adder_%28Computi..."

http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Note
http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Activity_zone

http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Adder_%28Computing%29

http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Workshop
http://dwarffortresswiki.org/index.php/DF2012:Mechanism

v0.31:Mechanical logic

2011-09-29T09:05:49Z

Mstram: /* Toggle based */

{{quality|Exceptional|16:06, 11 August 2010 (UTC)}}

{{av}}

Mechanical logic is one discipline of {{l|computing}} using mechanical {{l|power}} to perform logical operations. In this case powered or unpowered {{l|machine component|machine components}} represent the binary information.

The principles of mechanical logic are simple. {{l|Gear assembly|Gear assemblies}} linked to {{l|trigger}}s will be toggled between disengaged and engaged when they receive an on/off signal. In this manner, you can conditionally attach power supply from {{l|windmill}}s or {{l|water wheel}}s to specially arranged gears to build logic gates.

== Mechanical logic versus fluid logic ==
* Mechanical logic is very fast. Gears don't have a reaction delay of 100 steps like most other components used by {{l|fluid logic}}. So if a gear is toggled the flow of power will change immideately.
* Mechanical logic is very flexible. Gears can toggle, so inverting signals is easy and you don't have to deal with different machine components.
* Mechanical logic is very reconfigurable. You don't have to deal with {{l|creature|creatures}} or fluid before changing anything.

* Mechanical logic needs a substancial amount of wood to create and transmit power. (So what?)
* Mechanical logic still needs {{l|water|fluid}} to build converter to trigger something else than machine components. (If you really want to be fluid free you'll have to stick to {{l|animal logic}}.)
* <s>Mechanical logic needs a substancial amount of mechanism.</s> (Only if you stick to {{l|mechanical logic#Load based|load based mechanical logic}}.)
== General concepts ==
There are two general conceps. The older and inadvisable one is the so called load based mechanical logic. The other one is the so called toggle based mechanical logic.
=== Load based ===
Load based mechanical logic uses single logic gates with a defined amount of power. They have an additional amount of load in terms of mechanism or other machine components, consuming all of the power if connected. The gates are designed in a way that the load is disconnected while the output shall be true, and connected when the output shall be false. Every logic gate has to have its own power supply. Compact complex logic gates are very hard to design, utterly impossible.

=== Toggle based ===
Toggle based mechanical logic works more like {{l|fluid logic}}, not controlling the flow of fluid but the flow of power. It uses the fact that gears don't have a defined state when recieving an on or an off signal, but toggle between connected and dismanteled, independent of the type of signal. It normaly uses a central power supply. It is quite easy to create very complex gates with multiple output signals like for example a binary to decimal converter.

=== Example ===
The first example shows a load based XOR gate. It takes input signals from two different triggers. It's output gear (<span style="color:#FFFF44">O</span>) is powered when exactly one of the two input triggers is on and the other one is off. This is done as follows:<br />The power will be connected to the gear with the <span style="color:#44FF44">P</span> (from the bottom of the diagram or another z-level). One input is linked to gear <span style="color:#FF44FF">1</span> the other to gear <span style="color:#FF44FF">2</span>. This way power will flow from <span style="color:#44FF44">P</span> to <span style="color:#FFFF44">O</span> if either one of the input signals is off. Aditionally both inputs are linked to gear <span style="color:#FF44FF">3</span>, that is connected to the load <span style="color:#FF4444">L</span>. Since gears toggle the gear will be active if both singals where off (or on), and the load will stop any flow of power then. You can build this on top of a {{l|Mechanical logic#Power to signal converter|power to signal converter}} as shown on this page.<br />As you can see you will need many mechanism to build this gate. 5 for the gears, 8 to connect to the input in addition to all the components needed for the converter and the load.
<div style="width:1px; white-space:nowrap;">
'''load based XOR'''
{| cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-spacing:0; border-style:solid; border-width:thin; border-color:#000000;"
|
{| cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-spacing:0; padding:0; margin:0; vertical-align:middle;"
|-
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|-
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#444|*|#DDD||||1|#F4F|right}}
|{{RTL|#222|*|#BBB||||O|#FF4|right}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|-
|{{RTL|#FFF| |#FFF|L|#F44|right}}
|{{RTL|#444|*|#DDD||||3|#F4F|right}}
|{{RTL|#444|*|#DDD||||P|#4F4|right}}
|{{RTL|#444|*|#DDD||||2|#D4D|right}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|}
|}
</div>
<br />A toggle based XOR gate looks much simpler:
<div style="width:1px; white-space:nowrap;">
'''toggle based XOR'''
{| cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-spacing:0; border-style:solid; border-width:thin; border-color:#000000;"
|
{| cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-spacing:0; padding:0; margin:0; vertical-align:middle;"
|-
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|-
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#222|*|#BBB}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|-
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|{{RTL|#FFF}}
|}
|}
</div>
Yes, that's right. You'll need only one gear. This is how it works:<br />Connect it to your source of power, and link it to one of your input triggers. Build a temporary lever anywhere and connect it, too. Pull the lever once. You can deconstruct the temporary lever now. Now the gear is dismanteled, and you link the second input trigger to it. Since gears toggle, everytime your trigger changes state and sends a signal the gear will change state. Initially both triggers are off, and the gear is dismanteled. When one trigger changes state, it will activate gear. Independent of whitch trigger changes next, both will have the same state afterwards, and the gear will be dismanteled again. So the gear will transport power when both input troggers are at different state: XOR. You can build this on top of a {{l|Mechanical logic#Power to signal converter|power to signal converter}} as shown on this page.<br />As you can see you will need little mechanism to build this gate. 1 for the gear, 4 to connect to the input and 1 will be lost after disconnecting the temporarry lever (that needs 3 temporarry). And of course you will need all the components for the converter, but no load.

== Power to signal converter ==
When you are dealing with mechanical logic, you'll finally want or have to trigger something else than machine components like doors or bridges. Currently, there doesn't exist any {{l|trigger|trigger}} in dwarf fortress that reacts on the working state of machine components, thus power on/off. So, you'll have to convert power via pressure plates, screw pumps and fluid into an on/off signal.
<div style="width:1px; white-space:nowrap;">
'''Z 0'''
{| cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-spacing:0; border-style:solid; border-width:thin; border-color:#000000;"
|
{| cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-spacing:0; padding:0; margin:0; vertical-align:middle;"
|-
|{{RTL|#DDD}}
|{{RTL|#DDD}}
|{{RTL|#DDD}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|-
|{{RTL|#DDD}}
|{{RTL|#222|·|#BBB}}
|{{RTL|#444|÷|#DDD}}
|{{RTL|#444|÷|#DDD|►|#00A|center|►|#00A|center}}
|{{RTL|#222|·|#BBB}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|-
|{{RTL|#DDD}}
|{{RTL|#DDD}}
|{{RTL|#DDD}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|}
|}
</div>
<div style="width:1px; white-space:nowrap;">
'''Z-1'''
{| cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-spacing:0; border-style:solid; border-width:thin; border-color:#000000;"
|
{| cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border-spacing:0; padding:0; margin:0; vertical-align:middle;"
|-
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|-
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#00A|^|#DDD||||7|#88F|left}}
|{{RTL|#DDD||||||7|#88F|left}}
|{{RTL|#DDD||||||7|#88F|left}}
|{{RTL|#DDD||||||7|#88F|left}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|-
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|{{RTL|#222}}
|-
|}
|}
</div>
<br />
When the pump is connected to power, it will suck water from the pressure plate and pump it to the right. The water level on the pressure plate will fall to 0. The plate can be constructed to react on 0…3 water. You can invert it to get an off signal instead setting it to 4…7. In both cases the ''off signal'' will have a delay of 100 steps.{{Verify}} This gate is fluid conserving.

==Load based Mechanical signal-input power-output gates==
* These gates can be used either by adding a power -> link signal converter (also known as a "rotation sensor"), or directly used to control pumps, such as in other logic gates (the unsourced fluid logic gates use these, for instance). The conventional "rotation sensor" consists of a pump powered by the gate's OUTPUT gear, pumping an infinite supply of water onto a water-sensing pressure plate with an infinite drain.
* There are certain things important to all the gates:
* Each gate has an OUTPUT gear, which will be placed next to a pump which the gate will control.
* In diagrams, the OUTPUT gear is below the 'O' gear, connected to it by gears or vertical axles. The P indicates where you should hook power up, and L indicates where load (gears or pumps that don't have a water source) should be connected, and ¦ and - are horizontal axles. The Is are gears linked to INPUTs (some gates have one input, but most have two).
* Gates which incorporate a NOT will have the power network branch off from the 'O' gear, and have a train of power-draining stuff connected to the input gears, whereas gates which do not incorporate a NOT will have the power connected to the input gears instead. The principle behind normal gates is that when the INPUTs are ON, power is connected. The principle behind the NOT gates is that power is always connected, but when the INPUTs are ON, a large enough power requirement is connected to send the power requirements above the power supply, shutting down the system.
* If your windmills produce no power, you'll have to come up with some way to use water wheels for power instead.
* You should build only enough windmills (or water wheels) to power the system, and should not connect the network for one gate to another gate's network, since that would both gates up.
* The gates' instructions will explain how much load and power you need to have at each P and L in the more complicated gates.

===Legend===
{| class="wikitable" border="1"
|-
! Symbol
! Meaning
|-
| {{diagram|[#ff0]O}}
| A gear which connects to your OUTPUT gear, which outputs power when the gate is producing an ON output.
|-
| {{diagram|[#aaf]I}}
| A gear connected to an INPUT. In most gates you will have two Is, with each one connected to a different input.
|-
| {{diagram|-}} and {{diagram|¦}}
| Horizontal axles
|-
| {{diagram|[#0f0]P}}
| Power goes here
|-
| {{diagram|[#aaf]i}}
| Two more gears, each connected to the two different inputs.
|-
| {{diagram|[#f00]L}}
| a chain of gears or pumps which serve to add load to the system, generally shutting it off when connected.
|-
| {{diagram|*}}
| A gear which isn't linked to any inputs or outputs and just serves to connect the power or whatever.
|}

===Mechanical identity gate ===
{{diagram|
[#ff0]O[#aaf]I--[#0f0]P}}

* This takes an linked input signal and converts it to power without changing it.
* Connected to the input gear, such that they will only be connected to the system if the input gear is receiving an ON signal, are gears with windmills on top of them. Build only enough windmills to power the devices that the gate's OUTPUT gear are connected to (and the gears/axles).
* When the INPUT is ON, the INPUT gear will be active, and the network will provide power to the OUTPUT. When the INPUT is OFF, it will not provide power to the OUTPUT.

===Mechanical NOT gate===
{{diagram|
[#ff0]O[#aaf]I[#f00]L
¦
¦
[#0f0]P}}

* When the INPUT is ON, the INPUT gear will be active, and the network should need more power than is available. The devices connected to OUTPUT should shut down. When INPUT is OFF, the devices should have power since the INPUT gear will be disconnected.

===Mechanical NAND gate===
{{diagram|
[#ff0]O[#aaf]I[#aaf]I[#f00]L
¦
¦
[#0f0]P}}

* This works just like the NOT gate, except that there are two inputs and both have to be active to shut down the system instead of one. Make sure you have enough power to run the system when one of the input gears is active.

===Mechanical AND gate===
{{diagram|
[#ff0]O[#aaf]I[#aaf]I[#0f0]P}}

* This works like the identity gate, except that there are two inputs and both have to be active for the system to get power.

===Mechanical OR gate===
{{diagram|
[#ff0]O[#aaf]I
[#aaf]I*[#0f0]P}}

* This works like the identity gate, except that there are two inputs, and if either is active, the system receives power. Note that the entire power network is connected to both inputs, such that if either input is active the entire power network is powering the system.

===Mechanical NOR gate===
{{diagram|
[#aaf]I*[#f00]L
[#ff0]O[#aaf]I
¦
¦
[#0f0]P}}

* This works like the NOT gate, except that there are two inputs, and if either is active, the gear train or pump stack signified by the 'L' will be connected to the system. You need to have enough load to push power requirements above the amount of power produced by the power supply, shutting the system down.

===Mechanical XOR gate===
{{diagram|
[#ff0]O[#aaf]I
[#aaf]I*-[#0f0]P
[#000].[#aaf]i
[#000].[#aaf]i
[#000].[#f00]L}}

* Except for the 'i's and 'L', this gate is identical to the OR gate. The additional components add the 'exclusive' part of the 'XOR' to the gate.
*The 'i's are additional gears connected to each of your inputs, and the L is additional load (large enough to stop the system, of course).

===Mechanical XNOR gate===
{{diagram|
[#000].[#000].[#aaf]I*[#f00]L
[#000].[#000].[#ff0]O[#aaf]I
[#000].[#000].¦
[#0f0]P[#aaf]-*
[#000].[#000].[#aaf]i
[#000].[#000].[#aaf]i
[#000].[#000].[#0f0]P}}

{| class="wikitable" border="1"
|-
! A
! B
! Drain
! Power
! Extra Power
! Result
|-
| 0
| 0
| No
| Yes
| No
| 1
|-
| 0
| 1
| Yes
| Yes
| No
| 0
|-
| 1
| 0
| Yes
| Yes
| No
| 0
|-
| 1
| 1
| Yes
| Yes
| Yes
| 1
|}

* The XNOR gate is an equality gate: The output is ON when both inputs are equal, and OFF when they are not equal.
* This gate may be '''even more complicated''' to build than the XOR gate!
* First, your 'i's are again gears connected to your two inputs. The extra P below them is additional power source, ideally only one windmill.
* Here's where it gets complicated. The load has to be sufficient to shut down the system when additional power supply is disconnected. However, when BOTH inputs are on, there needs to be enough power from additional P to bring the system back online.
* Thus our gate does what it is supposed to: Produce enough power to have the OUTPUT gear be ON when both A and B are either 0 or 1, but not when they are not equal.

{{Category|Computing}}

User talk:Mstram

2011-09-27T02:46:57Z

Mstram:

http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/40d:Location
http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/40d:Region
http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/DF2010:Quickstart_guide

http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/User:Jong/Dwarven_Computer

== Running The Computer ==
Hi Mike,

Ok, I haven't played DF in a while, but there is a buildings list, which
would contain a list of all the buildings built in the current site. Of
course this is absolutely useless in the present context as it would be
populated with literally thousands of entries of every door, screw pump,
pressure plate in the fortress. There is also no zoom function in 40d. The
best that you can do is to edit the ini file so that the window size is
bigger and contains more tiles. You can also press TAB to hide the useless
minimap. You should probably look up the standard DF view controls.

Now the basic principles of operating the computer. Unfortunately there is
no convenient I/O system, and the clock is not automatic, so the operation
of the clock, and the input of the memory registers must be done manually.

When I say manually, I mean that you must press q, move the cursor over
the screw pump you intend to activate, set the screw pump to start pumping
manually, and wait for a dwarf to come to operate the screw pump. The
screw pump will then fill the tile containing the pressure plate and this
will be a 1 in the memory cell, or it will advance the clock by one step.

Convert 1 - 0
To convert a 1 to a zero, the memory cells have an extraction pump in the
level above the pressure plates ( the pink ^ symbols). Sending a dwarf to
activate this pump will extract and dump the water from the tile with the
pressure plate and set the memory cell to zero.

If there is no extraction
pump, and the cell empties the moment you stop pumping, it means that the
cell is actually an output buffer, which looks similar to a memory cell
but is not. Oh and don't forget to stop the pumping, otherwise the dwarves
will try to keep the pump going indefinitely.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok to operate the computer, first you must ensure that the water reservoir
below the pressure plate deck is filled with water.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

You must also ensure that the power plant in the lowest level of the fort is in operation.

It should be active in the save I put up, but I'm not sure. If not, the blue
levers generally operate the important bits of the plumbing. Unfortunately
I don't precisely recall which lever does exactly what, so you may have to
risk pulling likely looking levers and seeing what happens.

I should now digress to comment on the behaviour of "linking" in DF. As
you may already noticed, there is no data bus in the computer, or any "
wires" that conduct information between various components. The "wires"
that you see, simply supply the power to the components are are always on.

The components of the computer are connected virtually via "linking". What
is linking? It is basically the method by which signals are converted into
actions in DF. Example, I link a door to a lever. Pulling the lever
creates a signal and the door opens. In the computer, the signals are
generated by pressure plates, and the actions a various gears being
toggled (gears are unique in that their state toggles, rather than
conforming to the on/off state of the signal source)

Unfortunately, once linked, there is almost no trace of the link between the lever and the
door, and almost no way to predict what will happen when you pull a lever (

** there is a method, but it is really really impractical). **

This is why pulling levers that you didn't build yourself, or you did build, but had
forgotten, is a rather dangerous and risky business, and is kind of a
running joke among experienced DF users, especially those who play
succession games. This is also why you can't really tell how the computer
works just by looking at the physical schematics, which is really quite
unfortunate.

**I did think of implementing an actual bus, but this would
have introduced issues that I preferred not to deal with. **

On - Off Switch

Ok, going over the map, I see that there is a small cluster of levers
close to the North edge of the map on the sensor deck. There are also blue
levers scattered around the map.

One of these levers should be the on/off
for the computers power supply connection to the power plant. Another
should open all the doors in the plumbing, and one should open the drain (
which you shouldn't normally have to open). There should be one to open
the door to fill the pre-filling cistern, and one that activates the pump
that actually does the filling. There's supposed to be one that controls
the door between the cave river and the water shaft, but I forgot where it
was.

When the computer's reservoirs are completely filled, you need to turn off
the water supply pump, otherwise it would continue to attempt to fill the
reservoir. This would prevent the memory cells and output buffers from
draining, and the computer wouldn't be able to run.

Clock

Now you need to ensure that the water tile in the clock is in the starting
position, that should be the top left corner tile. You also need to ensure
that the program counter is empty. It would be wise to ensure that all the
other memory registers are empty as well, although I'm pretty sure that it
shouldn't be a problem.

Once you have set up the computer, you can input your program into the
main memory (using the dwarves). You, uh have to refer to the
documentation for the machine codes. Once you have done that, all you need
to do is to operate the clock. Just instruct a dwarf to operate a pump to
move the water tile into the next cell, then watch the computer until it
achieves a steady state, and repeat. Each clock cycle should execute one
instruction.

If you just want to know how it works, you should read the original white
paper, which is in the first post and on google docs

https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AdISzBuNg6ZWZGd0d2t4YjlfMjJ0ejlzc2dnaA&hl=en

There are some differences between the white paper and the actual computer.

The final memory cells are derivative of a design posted by someone else
in the thread. It's probably optimal in terms of size and speed, although
I would be happy to be shown otherwise. The memory output multiplexer is
also not in the white paper, although it's construction is fairly simple,
although large scale. The adder design I used is actually not optimal, the
optimal design is in some other thread, and on the wiki.

v0.31 Talk:Quickstart guide

2011-09-25T05:45:26Z

Mstram:

== Strike The Earth! ==

Hmm.. it seems that 'mining' doesn't work from the '''surface''' in version
0.31.25 (Did it ever ?)

http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=87550.msg2385067#msg2385067

''If you are on the surface you use channeling or stairs to dig down. Mining only mines walls on the current level you are looking at.
''
--[[User:Mstram|Mstram]] 05:42, 25 September 2011 (UTC)

== Major Updates ==

This article seemed to be stagnating so I made some major improvements to the guide. It still doesn't tell you exactly how to do everything step-by-step, but there's a better reference guide for looking things up now. I did improve the level of detail somewhat, and linked to Bentgirder for people looking for something more specific. Also linked to Dwarf Therapist in about 3 places. --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 08:46, 27 April 2011 (UTC)

::: The tutorial ''is'' helpful, to an extent. However, I can't follow the reasoning why it tells the player to dig nine levels down before excavating a living area, largely because no actual reason is given. This takes a ton and a half of extra time, all while my dwarves starve and go cold turkey and my storage areas fill up with lizard corpses that mysteriously fail to be carted off to the refuse pile.

::: I'm still hanging in there, but the lack of oversight is a serious flaw. As a tutorial it starts out well enough, but aside from the section on dumping, it gives the player little ability to understand or control what's happening. --Eleas (unregistered) 00:19, 12 May 2011 (GMT +1:00)

:::: First, keep in mind that this particular thread predates major changes to the guide so any more threads with feedback should probably be started somewhere below to avoid confusion. Anyway, the original reasoning behind the "build living quarters on level -7" is that dwarves can be awakened by noise from activities on upper levels, but I'm not sure if this is any longer the case in the current version. It shouldn't actually take any longer to build a single stairwell 7 levels down than it does to dig a tunnel 7 tiles long. How long is it taking and how are you going about it? Also, aside from dumping there isn't much of any way to directly control dwarves. You pretty much just specify things for them to do, build, put things, etc, and they take on jobs and perform them as hardcoded priorities allow.... Perhaps I should add something about that.... --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 00:08, 12 May 2011 (UTC)

::::: Firstly, with the caveat that I'm a rank newbie, the problem is not merely that we dig down eight levels. The problem is that we excavate an entire extra level before doing that, and that we have to divide our attention between the surface layers and the sleeping quarters. We're not told why it has to be this way. We do not know whether there might be caves full of fire and brimstone and burrowing Balrogs in the layers between. We're not given any sort of timeframe to work with either, so we have no way of knowing if we're making good time. While we're trying to figure out this, our limited control over labors is tested by the distance to the planting fields, and we don't realize why the plump helmets rot unattended. The tutorial tries to be helpful, but (particularly after a while) falls into the trap of assuming that the reader will understand by inferring the relationships.

::::: So as constructive criticism, I would say the tutorial was informative and useful until [http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/DF2010:Quickstart_guide#Strike_The_Earth.21 Strike the Earth]. At that point, we're told stuff without the requisite context. Why is a long, narrow corridor easy to defend? How does one defend at all? What does a jeweler have to do with getting basic amenities into position (food, drink, rest)? What's the real purpose of the administrator? Et cetera. The fact that the tutorial is billed as the most up to date on the wiki (the DF build icon) meant I trusted it to be so, and that could have been one reason for the disconnect. --Eleas (unregistered) 00:22, 13 May 2011 (GMT +1:00).

:::::: Currently it is the most up-to-date. It's true that at some point I kind of start glossing over things a bit, but I was trying to keep it from getting too long and it's about 10 times longer than it was before I started working on it. (You would have found the original one totally worthless, most likely.) Part of the reason that it's not more detailed is that it's supposed to be "quick" and cover more material in less detail than a normal tutorial. You might want to check out {{L|Bentgirder}} which covers less material but covers it in more detail I think. I did actually update some stuff in the quickstart quite to address the fortress design stuff, but the game is so complex that there's no way to explain everything that might happen as you might be able to in SimCity. --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 22:41, 12 May 2011 (UTC)

::::::: Fantastic article! I feel the comments, while constructive, fail to express the gratitude that countless readers owe you. What I feel is lacking from DF newb guides is an explanation of top-level game concepts/advice: - Get the latest version of the game and load graphics if full ASCII is daunting; get the lazy newb pack for a quick start. - Dwarves are not controlled manually but rather undertake 'jobs' defined by the player. - Don't worry about keeping your expeditionary party's skill sets 'clean': focus on getting started before becoming obsessive over roles. - Rather than spending 10+ hours reading up and delving into specifics, follow a step-by-step startup guide such as <http://afteractionreporter.com/2009/02/09/the-complete-and-utter-newby-tutorial-for-dwarf-fortress-part-1-wtf/>. Again, fantastic article and thank you for paving my transition from Caesar/Civ/GalCiv into this new vice! ^-^

:::::::: "Below the living quarters, and right off the main stairwell, create another four rooms. One will be for general food storage, one a dining hall, one a kitchen, and one a still" Wouldn't building your dinning hall below your bedrooms disrupt your dwarfs' sleep? According the the [[noise]] article eating travels 1 tile, including on the z axis. Course, unless you build it 9 tiles away from everything, it seems almost impossible to avoid such a fate. [[User:XB-70|XB-70]] 23:03, 14 September 2011 (UTC)

== Kitchen / Still Stockpiles ==

I think the area dealing with the stockpiles in the kitchen and still could use some work. There is no entry for "Large Pots" under the furniture section for instance. Also, what is considered prepared food versus non-prepared? I started going through all the meats excluding everything starting with "Prepared..." and almost lost my mind. Overall I've found the guide useful and feel like I'm getting a practical grasp of the game now that I'm on my third time going through it. [[User:Vitriolum|Vitriolum]] 01:48, 8 May 2011 (UTC)

:The stockpiles screen is confusing. "Prepared food" are not actually the things that start with "Prepared" like "Prepared whatever meat". It took me forever to notice the {{DFtext|u: Prepared Food}} thing in the lower right corner. (Keep on the lookout for other toggles that appear in this part of the screen when you select other things like Animals, for instance.) "Prepared Food" should probably be called "Cooked Meals" or something since that's what it actually is. This configuration is complex enough that it's worth elaborating on so I updated that section and the first section on stockpiles. Let me know what you think. --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 03:36, 8 May 2011 (UTC)

::Excellent. Yes that clears it up for me! I suppose it does make sense to keep that stuff in a separate article. Maybe we should spell out the benefits of the advanced stockpiling, though, with the link. I'll add that later tonight. Also, I'm now set to be emailed when watched pages update so it won't take me 3 days to learn that something's been added here! [[User:Vitriolum|Vitriolum]] 20:32, 11 May 2011 (UTC)

:::Feel free to add whatever you want especially since it's in its own page now and doesn't contribute to the complexity of the main guide. I do seem to remember in my first fort that I really didn't want to mess with custom stockpiles too much and would rather just focus on other things. (Like I knew I could create a seeds-only stockpile but I just didn't want to bother with it yet). So I tried to remove everything about custom stockpiles, but the general-purpose custom stockpile seemed pretty important so I left that one in. I at least simplified the general purpose one so that people only have to mess with enabling/disabling top level categories of things and not worry about digging around finding rock pots and such. I should probably read back over and see if there is anything else I can simplify. Like perfectly optimal stockpiles there are probably some other things that a fort could operate without that might be removed or simplified.... --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 21:43, 11 May 2011 (UTC)

== Military and stockpiles ==

I moved the military stuff to [[DF2010:Military quickstart]] to try to shorten the article a bit, and I simplified the stockpile stuff and moved the more advanced stockpile tweaking to its own subpage. I wish I could shorten the guide more but it seems very hard to do so because there's just a lot of stuff that you have to do to get a minimal fortress working. Though the guide isn't short it is relatively quick compared to trying to learn by trial and error using the rest of the docs on the wiki..... --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 19:37, 9 May 2011 (UTC)

== Rest of fortress? ==

Y'know how in this guide it tells you levels (level 0, level -1, level -7, &c.)? Why doesn't it give you recommendations/suggestions for the other levels like level -3, -4, and -5? --[[Special:Contributions/69.248.54.74|69.248.54.74]] 03:42, 12 June 2011 (UTC)

:Well, it does sort of. It tells you to just mine around in those levels looking for minerals. Originally the reason for putting the bedrooms 7 levels under was to avoid noise from the surface, but that doesn't really seem to be an issue in the latest versions (if it ever was) so I could probably just change the numbering. --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 05:35, 12 June 2011 (UTC)

::Maybe instead of changing the number we could add a little side note or something stating why the bedroom used to be 7 levels below the surface? --[[Special:Contributions/69.248.54.74|69.248.54.74]] 18:53, 17 June 2011 (UTC)

== Noob friendly Editing ==

edited stockpile section for the sole purpose of it being equivalent to the order in the game (makes disabling easier) gonna update that incase of future changes;

greetings qusteka; Thursday 23 of June 2011

v0.31 Talk:Quickstart guide

2011-09-25T05:42:10Z

Mstram: /* Major Updates */

== Strike The Earth!

Hmm.. it seems that 'mining' doesn't work from the '''surface''' in version
0.31.25 (Did it ever ?)

http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=87550.msg2385067#msg2385067

''If you are on the surface you use channeling or stairs to dig down. Mining only mines walls on the current level you are looking at.
''
--[[User:Mstram|Mstram]] 05:42, 25 September 2011 (UTC)

== Major Updates ==

This article seemed to be stagnating so I made some major improvements to the guide. It still doesn't tell you exactly how to do everything step-by-step, but there's a better reference guide for looking things up now. I did improve the level of detail somewhat, and linked to Bentgirder for people looking for something more specific. Also linked to Dwarf Therapist in about 3 places. --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 08:46, 27 April 2011 (UTC)

::: The tutorial ''is'' helpful, to an extent. However, I can't follow the reasoning why it tells the player to dig nine levels down before excavating a living area, largely because no actual reason is given. This takes a ton and a half of extra time, all while my dwarves starve and go cold turkey and my storage areas fill up with lizard corpses that mysteriously fail to be carted off to the refuse pile.

::: I'm still hanging in there, but the lack of oversight is a serious flaw. As a tutorial it starts out well enough, but aside from the section on dumping, it gives the player little ability to understand or control what's happening. --Eleas (unregistered) 00:19, 12 May 2011 (GMT +1:00)

:::: First, keep in mind that this particular thread predates major changes to the guide so any more threads with feedback should probably be started somewhere below to avoid confusion. Anyway, the original reasoning behind the "build living quarters on level -7" is that dwarves can be awakened by noise from activities on upper levels, but I'm not sure if this is any longer the case in the current version. It shouldn't actually take any longer to build a single stairwell 7 levels down than it does to dig a tunnel 7 tiles long. How long is it taking and how are you going about it? Also, aside from dumping there isn't much of any way to directly control dwarves. You pretty much just specify things for them to do, build, put things, etc, and they take on jobs and perform them as hardcoded priorities allow.... Perhaps I should add something about that.... --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 00:08, 12 May 2011 (UTC)

::::: Firstly, with the caveat that I'm a rank newbie, the problem is not merely that we dig down eight levels. The problem is that we excavate an entire extra level before doing that, and that we have to divide our attention between the surface layers and the sleeping quarters. We're not told why it has to be this way. We do not know whether there might be caves full of fire and brimstone and burrowing Balrogs in the layers between. We're not given any sort of timeframe to work with either, so we have no way of knowing if we're making good time. While we're trying to figure out this, our limited control over labors is tested by the distance to the planting fields, and we don't realize why the plump helmets rot unattended. The tutorial tries to be helpful, but (particularly after a while) falls into the trap of assuming that the reader will understand by inferring the relationships.

::::: So as constructive criticism, I would say the tutorial was informative and useful until [http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/DF2010:Quickstart_guide#Strike_The_Earth.21 Strike the Earth]. At that point, we're told stuff without the requisite context. Why is a long, narrow corridor easy to defend? How does one defend at all? What does a jeweler have to do with getting basic amenities into position (food, drink, rest)? What's the real purpose of the administrator? Et cetera. The fact that the tutorial is billed as the most up to date on the wiki (the DF build icon) meant I trusted it to be so, and that could have been one reason for the disconnect. --Eleas (unregistered) 00:22, 13 May 2011 (GMT +1:00).

:::::: Currently it is the most up-to-date. It's true that at some point I kind of start glossing over things a bit, but I was trying to keep it from getting too long and it's about 10 times longer than it was before I started working on it. (You would have found the original one totally worthless, most likely.) Part of the reason that it's not more detailed is that it's supposed to be "quick" and cover more material in less detail than a normal tutorial. You might want to check out {{L|Bentgirder}} which covers less material but covers it in more detail I think. I did actually update some stuff in the quickstart quite to address the fortress design stuff, but the game is so complex that there's no way to explain everything that might happen as you might be able to in SimCity. --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 22:41, 12 May 2011 (UTC)

::::::: Fantastic article! I feel the comments, while constructive, fail to express the gratitude that countless readers owe you. What I feel is lacking from DF newb guides is an explanation of top-level game concepts/advice: - Get the latest version of the game and load graphics if full ASCII is daunting; get the lazy newb pack for a quick start. - Dwarves are not controlled manually but rather undertake 'jobs' defined by the player. - Don't worry about keeping your expeditionary party's skill sets 'clean': focus on getting started before becoming obsessive over roles. - Rather than spending 10+ hours reading up and delving into specifics, follow a step-by-step startup guide such as <http://afteractionreporter.com/2009/02/09/the-complete-and-utter-newby-tutorial-for-dwarf-fortress-part-1-wtf/>. Again, fantastic article and thank you for paving my transition from Caesar/Civ/GalCiv into this new vice! ^-^

:::::::: "Below the living quarters, and right off the main stairwell, create another four rooms. One will be for general food storage, one a dining hall, one a kitchen, and one a still" Wouldn't building your dinning hall below your bedrooms disrupt your dwarfs' sleep? According the the [[noise]] article eating travels 1 tile, including on the z axis. Course, unless you build it 9 tiles away from everything, it seems almost impossible to avoid such a fate. [[User:XB-70|XB-70]] 23:03, 14 September 2011 (UTC)

== Kitchen / Still Stockpiles ==

I think the area dealing with the stockpiles in the kitchen and still could use some work. There is no entry for "Large Pots" under the furniture section for instance. Also, what is considered prepared food versus non-prepared? I started going through all the meats excluding everything starting with "Prepared..." and almost lost my mind. Overall I've found the guide useful and feel like I'm getting a practical grasp of the game now that I'm on my third time going through it. [[User:Vitriolum|Vitriolum]] 01:48, 8 May 2011 (UTC)

:The stockpiles screen is confusing. "Prepared food" are not actually the things that start with "Prepared" like "Prepared whatever meat". It took me forever to notice the {{DFtext|u: Prepared Food}} thing in the lower right corner. (Keep on the lookout for other toggles that appear in this part of the screen when you select other things like Animals, for instance.) "Prepared Food" should probably be called "Cooked Meals" or something since that's what it actually is. This configuration is complex enough that it's worth elaborating on so I updated that section and the first section on stockpiles. Let me know what you think. --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 03:36, 8 May 2011 (UTC)

::Excellent. Yes that clears it up for me! I suppose it does make sense to keep that stuff in a separate article. Maybe we should spell out the benefits of the advanced stockpiling, though, with the link. I'll add that later tonight. Also, I'm now set to be emailed when watched pages update so it won't take me 3 days to learn that something's been added here! [[User:Vitriolum|Vitriolum]] 20:32, 11 May 2011 (UTC)

:::Feel free to add whatever you want especially since it's in its own page now and doesn't contribute to the complexity of the main guide. I do seem to remember in my first fort that I really didn't want to mess with custom stockpiles too much and would rather just focus on other things. (Like I knew I could create a seeds-only stockpile but I just didn't want to bother with it yet). So I tried to remove everything about custom stockpiles, but the general-purpose custom stockpile seemed pretty important so I left that one in. I at least simplified the general purpose one so that people only have to mess with enabling/disabling top level categories of things and not worry about digging around finding rock pots and such. I should probably read back over and see if there is anything else I can simplify. Like perfectly optimal stockpiles there are probably some other things that a fort could operate without that might be removed or simplified.... --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 21:43, 11 May 2011 (UTC)

== Military and stockpiles ==

I moved the military stuff to [[DF2010:Military quickstart]] to try to shorten the article a bit, and I simplified the stockpile stuff and moved the more advanced stockpile tweaking to its own subpage. I wish I could shorten the guide more but it seems very hard to do so because there's just a lot of stuff that you have to do to get a minimal fortress working. Though the guide isn't short it is relatively quick compared to trying to learn by trial and error using the rest of the docs on the wiki..... --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 19:37, 9 May 2011 (UTC)

== Rest of fortress? ==

Y'know how in this guide it tells you levels (level 0, level -1, level -7, &c.)? Why doesn't it give you recommendations/suggestions for the other levels like level -3, -4, and -5? --[[Special:Contributions/69.248.54.74|69.248.54.74]] 03:42, 12 June 2011 (UTC)

:Well, it does sort of. It tells you to just mine around in those levels looking for minerals. Originally the reason for putting the bedrooms 7 levels under was to avoid noise from the surface, but that doesn't really seem to be an issue in the latest versions (if it ever was) so I could probably just change the numbering. --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 05:35, 12 June 2011 (UTC)

::Maybe instead of changing the number we could add a little side note or something stating why the bedroom used to be 7 levels below the surface? --[[Special:Contributions/69.248.54.74|69.248.54.74]] 18:53, 17 June 2011 (UTC)

== Noob friendly Editing ==

edited stockpile section for the sole purpose of it being equivalent to the order in the game (makes disabling easier) gonna update that incase of future changes;

greetings qusteka; Thursday 23 of June 2011

User talk:Mstram

2011-09-25T00:49:10Z

Mstram: Created page with 'http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/40d:Location http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/40d:Region http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/DF2010:Quickstart_guide http://df.magmawiki.com/in…'