Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

Dragonfire

2023-01-07T00:06:22Z

Frewfrux:

{{migrated article}}
{{Quality|Unrated}}
{{av}}
[[File:dragonfire_preview.png|thumb|315px|right|Spoiler alert: The horses weren't fast enough.]]
[[File:dragonfire1.png|thumb|right|315px|Dragonfire. The [[goblin]] survived nearly a year before finally failing a shield block; the [[tin]] goblet, however, remained undamaged.]]
[[File:Dragon's Breath Spanning Z-Levels.png|thumb|The Dragonfire seen here was aimed at a dwarf 1 z-level below, and can be seen affecting both that z-level and the z-level above.]]

'''Dragonfire''' is a very powerful form of [[fire]] that is produced by [[dragon]]s. Dragonfire forms a rough cone shape, with a range of approximately 20 tiles and a spread of 10 tiles{{cite talk|DF2012:fire#Dragonfire}}. In versions v0.47 and earlier, dragonfire did not spread vertically through additional [[z-level]]s (although dragons did target visible creatures on other z-levels). However, in version v0.50, dragonfire has been seen spanning at least 2 [[z-level]]s, though the resulting grass-fire's spread was limited to the [[z-level]] it started on. Despite its powerfully destructive nature, dragonfire can effectively be blocked by a simple [[shield]] better than 99% of the time.

Legends claim that dragonfire can reach temperatures up to {{ct|50000}}. At that temperature, almost all materials should be destroyed (the dragon's own body and its butchering products are exceptions). However, research has shown that dragonfire is quite particular about which objects it affects. When in a tile with dragonfire, organic materials will ignite, even including [[nether-cap]] wood with its fixed temperature. Non-flammable common [[stone]], [[glass]], and [[ceramic]] items will melt and boil away. In previous versions, such as v0.43.03 and earlier, metal objects and buildings were immune to dragonfire, even non-fire-safe metals like [[tin]].{{bug|6517}} Dragonfire is similarly ineffective against [[water]], producing no [[steam]] or evaporation. [[Building]]s (but not [[construction]]s) are affected by dragonfire on their tile, making non-dragonfire-safe doors immune as long as they remain closed. Objects and buildings (and creatures) made out of [[slade]] are also immune to dragonfire, since the raws do not define a specific heat for slade.

Objects ignited by dragonfire drop to and continue to burn at their standard combustion temperature, however, repeated blasts of dragonfire can sustain much higher combustion temperatures, sufficient even to eventually melt nearby [[adamantine]].

Dragonfire is powerful enough to burn and kill [[creature]]s who are immune to conventional fire, like [[fire imp]]s or [[magma crab]]s. The only creatures immune to dragonfire are dragons themselves, as well as their subterranean [[cave dragon]] cousins, despite the latter not being able to breathe dragonfire. All [[Hidden Fun Stuff]] creatures are also immune to it.

==Dragonfire-safe materials==
There are very few materials which can withstand the immense heat of dragonfire. Here is the full list:

{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! width="8%" | Type
! width="15%" | Material
! width="5%" | Appearance
! width="10%" | [[Melting point]]
! width="10%" | [[Solid density]]
! width="10%" | [[Specific heat]]
! width="8%" | [[Value multiplier]]
! width="34%" | Notes

|-
| Metal
| [[Divine metal]]
| Varies
| None
| 1000
| 7500
| 300
| Found mostly in [[vault]]s

|-
| Leather
| [[Fire imp]] leather
| {{Raw Tile|ß|6:0:0}}
| None
| 500
| 420
| 3
|

|-
| Bone
| [[Fire imp]] bone
| {{Raw Tile|²|7:0:1}}
| None
| 500
| 1000
| 3
|

|-
| Bone
| [[Dragon]] bone
| {{Raw Tile|²|7:0:1}}
| None
| 500
| 30000
| 15
|

|}

{{Translation| dwarven = måmgoz-ziril | elvish = vutheni-inira | goblin = kusnath-zedan | human = tamun-usmok}}

{{Category|Creature attributes}}
[[Ru:Dragonfire]]

Dragonfire

2023-01-07T00:03:09Z

Frewfrux:

{{migrated article}}
{{Quality|Unrated}}
{{av}}
[[File:dragonfire_preview.png|thumb|315px|right|Spoiler alert: The horses weren't fast enough.]]
[[File:dragonfire1.png|thumb|right|315px|Dragonfire. The [[goblin]] survived nearly a year before finally failing a shield block; the [[tin]] goblet, however, remained undamaged.]]

'''Dragonfire''' is a very powerful form of [[fire]] that is produced by [[dragon]]s. Dragonfire forms a rough cone shape, with a range of approximately 20 tiles and a spread of 10 tiles{{cite talk|DF2012:fire#Dragonfire}}. In versions v0.47 and earlier, dragonfire did not spread vertically through additional [[z-level]]s (although dragons did target visible creatures on other z-levels). However, in version v0.50, dragonfire has been seen spanning at least 2 [[z-level]]s, though the resulting grass-fire's spread was limited to the [[z-level]] it started on. Despite its powerfully destructive nature, dragonfire can effectively be blocked by a simple [[shield]] better than 99% of the time.

Legends claim that dragonfire can reach temperatures up to {{ct|50000}}. At that temperature, almost all materials should be destroyed (the dragon's own body and its butchering products are exceptions). However, research has shown that dragonfire is quite particular about which objects it affects. When in a tile with dragonfire, organic materials will ignite, even including [[nether-cap]] wood with its fixed temperature. Non-flammable common [[stone]], [[glass]], and [[ceramic]] items will melt and boil away. In previous versions, such as v0.43.03 and earlier, metal objects and buildings were immune to dragonfire, even non-fire-safe metals like [[tin]].{{bug|6517}} Dragonfire is similarly ineffective against [[water]], producing no [[steam]] or evaporation. [[Building]]s (but not [[construction]]s) are affected by dragonfire on their tile, making non-dragonfire-safe doors immune as long as they remain closed. Objects and buildings (and creatures) made out of [[slade]] are also immune to dragonfire, since the raws do not define a specific heat for slade.

Objects ignited by dragonfire drop to and continue to burn at their standard combustion temperature, however, repeated blasts of dragonfire can sustain much higher combustion temperatures, sufficient even to eventually melt nearby [[adamantine]].

Dragonfire is powerful enough to burn and kill [[creature]]s who are immune to conventional fire, like [[fire imp]]s or [[magma crab]]s. The only creatures immune to dragonfire are dragons themselves, as well as their subterranean [[cave dragon]] cousins, despite the latter not being able to breathe dragonfire. All [[Hidden Fun Stuff]] creatures are also immune to it.

==Dragonfire-safe materials==
There are very few materials which can withstand the immense heat of dragonfire. Here is the full list:

{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! width="8%" | Type
! width="15%" | Material
! width="5%" | Appearance
! width="10%" | [[Melting point]]
! width="10%" | [[Solid density]]
! width="10%" | [[Specific heat]]
! width="8%" | [[Value multiplier]]
! width="34%" | Notes

|-
| Metal
| [[Divine metal]]
| Varies
| None
| 1000
| 7500
| 300
| Found mostly in [[vault]]s

|-
| Leather
| [[Fire imp]] leather
| {{Raw Tile|ß|6:0:0}}
| None
| 500
| 420
| 3
|

|-
| Bone
| [[Fire imp]] bone
| {{Raw Tile|²|7:0:1}}
| None
| 500
| 1000
| 3
|

|-
| Bone
| [[Dragon]] bone
| {{Raw Tile|²|7:0:1}}
| None
| 500
| 30000
| 15
|

|}

{{Translation| dwarven = måmgoz-ziril | elvish = vutheni-inira | goblin = kusnath-zedan | human = tamun-usmok}}

{{Category|Creature attributes}}
[[Ru:Dragonfire]]

Talk:Dragonfire

2023-01-06T20:41:37Z

Frewfrux: Created page with "I just had a dragon's fire breath span z-levels. In the attached pic, the dragon was coming down from the north and and used her fire breath to take out a fisherdwarf by the r..."

I just had a dragon's fire breath span z-levels. In the attached pic, the dragon was coming down from the north and and used her fire breath to take out a fisherdwarf by the river. Both the dragon and the dwarf were on the same z-level, and as you can see the fire spread to the z-level above. There were no targets on that z-level. Does the wiki article need to be updated now? I'm not sure what the procedure is for that.
[[File:Dragon's Breath Spanning Z-Levels.png|thumb]]

File:Dragon's Breath Spanning Z-Levels.png

2023-01-06T20:41:31Z

Frewfrux:

Dragon's Breath Spanning Z-Levels

DF2014 Talk:Tower-cap

2022-11-02T13:51:17Z

Frewfrux: Created page with "== Tower Cap Growing "Above Ground" == If a Tower Cap seedling sprouts in a dark, subterranean tile, then that tile is opened up to light becoming an outside, light, above gro..."

== Tower Cap Growing "Above Ground" ==
If a Tower Cap seedling sprouts in a dark, subterranean tile, then that tile is opened up to light becoming an outside, light, above ground tile instead, the newly present light will not kill the seedling; it will still continue to grow into a full Tower Cap despite now being above ground in the light. [[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] ([[User talk:Frewfrux|talk]]) 13:51, 2 November 2022 (UTC)

DF2014 Talk:Bridge

2022-11-02T13:42:48Z

Frewfrux: /* Draw Bridge Blocking Liquid while both down and up */

== Missing Information ==

From the Pressure Plate page: "(See the individual device pages for complete details of how open and close signals affect each device.)"

This page is lacking *complete* details about how signals effect bridges. I'm not sure myself so would prefer someone else add the information. -[[User:AnnanFay|AnnanFay]] ([[User talk:AnnanFay|talk]]) 01:24, 9 February 2015 (UTC)
: Most of the information seems to be on [[Lever#On.2FOff_states]]. I am uncertain if there are any differences or the best way to solve the above inconsistency. -[[User:AnnanFay|AnnanFay]] ([[User talk:AnnanFay|talk]]) 01:28, 9 February 2015 (UTC)

== Value calculation ==

It would be interesting to add something about value calculation of bridges. Does someone know what multipliers are used? In my case for example, my finely-designed and finely-built bridge had 25 displayed added (5*stone blocks) and 125 architecture. Is that simply x5 for the design then? I personally don't know, otherwise I'd add it myself.--[[User:Afghani84|Afghani84]] ([[User talk:Afghani84|talk]]) 07:11, 12 March 2015 (UTC)

== Misinformation ==

> While bridges do not provide structural support, the game will still allow you to place unsupported
> constructions adjacent to them which will result in an immediate cave-in once completed, often tossing
> the unlucky mason off the edge, to a horrible death any bystanders' great entertainment. However, extending
> a supported construction alongside a bridge will not cause a cave-in.

You definitely cannot safely extend an otherwise supported C-menu construction alongside a bridge safely in version 0.47.04. You must still build it in sections, extending out from already built parts, same as you always had to, to avoid unsupported portions adjacent to the bridge being built before the parts that support them.

I've been playing Dwarf Fortress on and off since the days when you needed to make sure you didn't excavate too large an underground area to avoid it caving it, so I am well versed in avoiding cave-ins. I have just started playing 0.47.04. I had this exact situation come up. I figured there was no reason for me to be micromanaging things I no longer needed to micromanage if the game had advanced, which it has in so many ways.

Here is what I had:

> ╚══════╝
> +++++xxx
> +...+xxx
> +...+xxx
> +...+xxx
> +++++xxx

The south end of the bridge is to the north of a constructed floor, actually the top of a wall around a windmill. The squares marked x are where I wanted to build a 3x5 constructed floor, which would have been perfectly safe to designate all at once if the bridge were not there (except I would have needed to build a ramp by the wall for dwarf access). In older versions with the bridge there I would have had to carefully designate and build the five sections to the west, then designate the middle five once those were finished, and finally the last five. That was how I was going to do it, but then I remembered reading something about how it was now safe to extend otherwise supported constructions alongside a bridge. So I reread this page, then confidently designated the entire floor.

I figured the worst that would happen is that I would learn the wiki was wrong. Which is exactly what happened.

I have generally found this wiki to be reliable. Could someone versed in editing here please fix this, amending the cited section so it says whatever it was supposed to say--I'm not even sure what the intent of the last sentence of my quoted passage is if not sabotage, though I trust someone wrote it with a valid reason--but without conveying misinformation?

[[Special:Contributions/108.48.179.167|108.48.179.167]] 16:34, 24 October 2020 (UTC)

:The article wording dates back to the [[v0.34:Bridge|v0.34 version of the article]], and hasn't changed much since then. I think these two statements are saying the same thing (or are intended to):
:* From the article: "extending a supported construction alongside a bridge will not cause a cave-in"
:* From you: "You must still build it in sections, extending out from already built parts"
:I'm guessing what happened is that your dwarves tried to build sections of the floor that were accessible from the bridge, but were not yet connected to a supported construction, thus causing a cave-in. If this is what happened, the issue was that you were connecting the floors next to the bridge to an ''uncompleted'' construction, not a ''supported'' construction (which must be completed by definition). At any rate, the statement in the article is not "sabotage" or "misinformation". It could be clarified that constructions actually need to be built to provide support, so I'll try to add some wording to emphasize this. —[[User:Lethosor|<span style="color:#074">Lethosor</span>]] ([[User talk:Lethosor|<span style="color:#092">talk</span>]]) 20:29, 25 October 2020 (UTC)

:: Thank you. The previous wording made it seem that a designation that was safe in the absence of the bridge would also be safe in its presence, which isn't true. Your wording is clear. I've signed up, as you can see, and have contributed some new text and corrected clear errors, but I am still reluctant to change things where I am uncertain of what was meant without a much better feel for the community. [[User:Automeris|Automeris]] ([[User talk:Automeris|talk]]) 09:57, 8 November 2020 (UTC)

== Draw Bridge Blocking Liquid while both down and up ==

I don't know if this is a new bug or not, but I don't see it listed here. Feel free to delete this is this is a known issue.

A drawbridge built over channels normally prevents liquid from flowing into the channel when down, but allows the liquid to flow into the channel when up. However, it seems that if you use the drawbridge to "atom-smash" any liquid on it's level (ie above the channels) and then raise the bridge again, the bridge will continue to block liquid from flowing into the channels even when raised.

I just had this happen with my obsidian generator, and I'm not sure what to do to allow liquids to flow back into the channels. I think I may need to deconstruct the bridge.
[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] ([[User talk:Frewfrux|talk]]) 05:33, 28 October 2022 (UTC)

:UPDATE - I worked out what was going on with the above "bug." Apparently you can't remove the ground layer under a bridge after the bridge is built. If you dig a ramp under the bridge you will get the ramp, but the ground layer above it will not be removed. What was happening in my case was that I was digging out obsidian under the bridge using ramps, without realizing that this left the ground layer above the ramp, so it looked like the bridge stopped allowing liquids past even when raised. [[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] ([[User talk:Frewfrux|talk]]) 13:42, 2 November 2022 (UTC)

DF2014 Talk:Bridge

2022-11-02T13:42:26Z

Frewfrux:

== Missing Information ==

From the Pressure Plate page: "(See the individual device pages for complete details of how open and close signals affect each device.)"

This page is lacking *complete* details about how signals effect bridges. I'm not sure myself so would prefer someone else add the information. -[[User:AnnanFay|AnnanFay]] ([[User talk:AnnanFay|talk]]) 01:24, 9 February 2015 (UTC)
: Most of the information seems to be on [[Lever#On.2FOff_states]]. I am uncertain if there are any differences or the best way to solve the above inconsistency. -[[User:AnnanFay|AnnanFay]] ([[User talk:AnnanFay|talk]]) 01:28, 9 February 2015 (UTC)

== Value calculation ==

It would be interesting to add something about value calculation of bridges. Does someone know what multipliers are used? In my case for example, my finely-designed and finely-built bridge had 25 displayed added (5*stone blocks) and 125 architecture. Is that simply x5 for the design then? I personally don't know, otherwise I'd add it myself.--[[User:Afghani84|Afghani84]] ([[User talk:Afghani84|talk]]) 07:11, 12 March 2015 (UTC)

== Misinformation ==

> While bridges do not provide structural support, the game will still allow you to place unsupported
> constructions adjacent to them which will result in an immediate cave-in once completed, often tossing
> the unlucky mason off the edge, to a horrible death any bystanders' great entertainment. However, extending
> a supported construction alongside a bridge will not cause a cave-in.

You definitely cannot safely extend an otherwise supported C-menu construction alongside a bridge safely in version 0.47.04. You must still build it in sections, extending out from already built parts, same as you always had to, to avoid unsupported portions adjacent to the bridge being built before the parts that support them.

I've been playing Dwarf Fortress on and off since the days when you needed to make sure you didn't excavate too large an underground area to avoid it caving it, so I am well versed in avoiding cave-ins. I have just started playing 0.47.04. I had this exact situation come up. I figured there was no reason for me to be micromanaging things I no longer needed to micromanage if the game had advanced, which it has in so many ways.

Here is what I had:

> ╚══════╝
> +++++xxx
> +...+xxx
> +...+xxx
> +...+xxx
> +++++xxx

The south end of the bridge is to the north of a constructed floor, actually the top of a wall around a windmill. The squares marked x are where I wanted to build a 3x5 constructed floor, which would have been perfectly safe to designate all at once if the bridge were not there (except I would have needed to build a ramp by the wall for dwarf access). In older versions with the bridge there I would have had to carefully designate and build the five sections to the west, then designate the middle five once those were finished, and finally the last five. That was how I was going to do it, but then I remembered reading something about how it was now safe to extend otherwise supported constructions alongside a bridge. So I reread this page, then confidently designated the entire floor.

I figured the worst that would happen is that I would learn the wiki was wrong. Which is exactly what happened.

I have generally found this wiki to be reliable. Could someone versed in editing here please fix this, amending the cited section so it says whatever it was supposed to say--I'm not even sure what the intent of the last sentence of my quoted passage is if not sabotage, though I trust someone wrote it with a valid reason--but without conveying misinformation?

[[Special:Contributions/108.48.179.167|108.48.179.167]] 16:34, 24 October 2020 (UTC)

:The article wording dates back to the [[v0.34:Bridge|v0.34 version of the article]], and hasn't changed much since then. I think these two statements are saying the same thing (or are intended to):
:* From the article: "extending a supported construction alongside a bridge will not cause a cave-in"
:* From you: "You must still build it in sections, extending out from already built parts"
:I'm guessing what happened is that your dwarves tried to build sections of the floor that were accessible from the bridge, but were not yet connected to a supported construction, thus causing a cave-in. If this is what happened, the issue was that you were connecting the floors next to the bridge to an ''uncompleted'' construction, not a ''supported'' construction (which must be completed by definition). At any rate, the statement in the article is not "sabotage" or "misinformation". It could be clarified that constructions actually need to be built to provide support, so I'll try to add some wording to emphasize this. —[[User:Lethosor|<span style="color:#074">Lethosor</span>]] ([[User talk:Lethosor|<span style="color:#092">talk</span>]]) 20:29, 25 October 2020 (UTC)

:: Thank you. The previous wording made it seem that a designation that was safe in the absence of the bridge would also be safe in its presence, which isn't true. Your wording is clear. I've signed up, as you can see, and have contributed some new text and corrected clear errors, but I am still reluctant to change things where I am uncertain of what was meant without a much better feel for the community. [[User:Automeris|Automeris]] ([[User talk:Automeris|talk]]) 09:57, 8 November 2020 (UTC)

== Draw Bridge Blocking Liquid while both down and up ==

I don't know if this is a new bug or not, but I don't see it listed here. Feel free to delete this is this is a known issue.

A drawbridge built over channels normally prevents liquid from flowing into the channel when down, but allows the liquid to flow into the channel when up. However, it seems that if you use the drawbridge to "atom-smash" any liquid on it's level (ie above the channels) and then raise the bridge again, the bridge will continue to block liquid from flowing into the channels even when raised.

I just had this happen with my obsidian generator, and I'm not sure what to do to allow liquids to flow back into the channels. I think I may need to deconstruct the bridge.
[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] ([[User talk:Frewfrux|talk]]) 05:33, 28 October 2022 (UTC)

:UPDATE - I worked out what was going on with the above "bug." Apparently you can't remove the ground layer under a bridge after the bridge is built. If you dig a ramp under the bridge you will get the ramp, but the ground layer above it will not be removed. What was happening in my case was that I was digging out obsidian under the bridge using ramps, without realizing that this left the ground layer above the ramp, so it looked like the bridge stopped allowing liquids past even when raised.
[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] ([[User talk:Frewfrux|talk]]) 13:42, 2 November 2022 (UTC)

DF2014 Talk:Bridge

2022-10-28T05:33:40Z

Frewfrux:

v0.31 Talk:Adamantine

2011-09-16T05:22:59Z

Frewfrux: /* Tower of Adamantine */

== Magma Seas and Adamantine ==

From what I can tell, HFSs are no longer the only sources of adamantine. I'm looking at a magma sea with deposits lining the walls. --[[User:TarrVetus|TarrVetus]] 12:59, 2 April 2010 (UTC)

:It's still [[adamantine]]. Without spoiling too much, I must ask rhetorically: has anything good ever come of mining too much of it? Has there not always been a horrific punishment to go along with the unimaginable wealth it brings? How about you dig a bit deeper, my little lamb... and maybe even deeper... what's the worst that could happen? :3 --[[User:Mr Frog|Mr Frog]] 22:55, 3 April 2010 (UTC)

== Messed up spoiler position ==
See the [[Raw adamantine]], The spoiler is in a different position, I'm going to revise it, so all non super-spoily stuff is above the spoiler. --[[User:Tarran|Tarran]] 02:57, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

==Okay, that about does it ==
Not only did my suturer ignore the thread stored in my hospital, no, he had to pick adamantine strands, too --[[Special:Contributions/92.202.58.117|92.202.58.117]] 17:36, 21 April 2010 (UTC)

==Stockpiles==
What kind of stockpile are adamantine strands stored on? I can't find an option for them under cloth or any other stockpile category.
:Cloth stockpiles, what is odd though is that whether or not a stockpile takes strands is determined by whetehr or not the stockpile takes 'Cloth > Thread (silk) > Phantom spider silk thread'. [[User:MLegion|MLegion]] 20:44, 10 July 2010 (UTC)

== raws ==

what does the tag "[DEEP_SPECIAL]" do?[[User:1337 w0n|1337 w0n]] 20:12, 14 September 2010 (UTC)
:For stone, it makes it appear in the tubular veins like raw adamantine does. With metals, I'm guessing it has the same effect as [DEEP] did back in 40d - preventing the civilization from having any access to the material for purposes of trade. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 01:59, 15 September 2010 (UTC)

== Urist Cancels Make adamantine waffers: Needs 15000 adamantine strands. ==

So raw adamantine has around 15000 strands.--[[Special:Contributions/190.139.218.44|190.139.218.44]] 22:54, 16 September 2010 (UTC)
:Yes, and processing one chunk of raw adamantine technically yields 15000 strands - an "adamantine strands" of dimension 15000 (as with all thread objects). --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 00:24, 17 September 2010 (UTC)

== Quality review request ==

I don't want to add content and upgrade the quality at the same time; would someone else check and see if this article should be upgraded on the quality scale? [[User:Decius|Decius]] 01:52, 8 November 2010 (UTC)

===elevator===
a semi working elevator exists. 1 step a sec. allows digging and wood chopping. [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=3433]

== (though i can't see why you would want to waste such a precious metal for such a meager purpose). ==

----
because of my legendary craftdwarves, that's why! -[[Special:Contributions/91.10.239.79|91.10.239.79]] 09:22, 19 December 2010 (UTC)

== Wafers -> Full set of armor? ==
How many wafers does it take to kit up a soldier fully (weapon, shield, breastplate, boots, helm, gauntlets, greaves)? I'm assuming seven because that's how much it takes for regular metal, but I remember reading somewhere that it took 20 or so. [[User:SirAaronIII|SirAaronIII]] 07:52, 6 February 2011 (UTC)
:There are different variants of "full kit" (you can check it at the Armor Page). You can give your soldiers adamantine clothing (clothiers may use adamantine as well as armorers), you can give each soldier 2 or 3 mail shirts under his breastplate, cap under helm etc... Finally, breastplates and greaves have to take 3 and 2 pieces of ore, respectively - it's actually a but that they only require one. So, with all this in mind, it may just take 20+ pieces of ore to fully equip a single dwarf.

== Clothing ==

How do you make clothing out of adamantine? I tried choosing cloth clothing in the clothier's shop, but that apparently refers to plant cloth. [[Special:Contributions/70.231.250.12|70.231.250.12]] 05:25, 28 June 2011 (UTC)
:Oh, I didn't see the option to make metal clothing at the forge. [[Special:Contributions/70.231.250.12|70.231.250.12]] 07:39, 28 June 2011 (UTC)

== Tower of Adamantine ==

So...I just started a map where I was going for lots of minerals, evilness, and savagery. The one thing I didn't count on was an elevator to hell. Maybe not an elevator per se, but a tower leading strait there, I'm guessing. There's a "vein" of the precious mineral sticking up out of the ground on my map up to level 151 (causing map to extend to level 172, of course) and it is hollow. I can't see exactly how far down it goes, but I'm guessing it leads to a really bad place. The reason I'm mentioning this is because the frame rate has dropped (game just started...not a single full day has passed yet) down to about a frame every two or three seconds (FPS counter displays 0 (0)) and I'm wondering if "plugging the hole" will restore the frame rate (no more pathing the deamons). Does anyone know? If not, is there anything I can do to still play the map?

And, in case anyone is wondering I bought this computer for its processing power one year ago so this map is eating up processing like mad! I've also saved a copy in case anyone's interested. [[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 05:17, 16 September 2011 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Adamantine

2011-09-16T05:17:09Z

Frewfrux:

== Magma Seas and Adamantine ==

From what I can tell, HFSs are no longer the only sources of adamantine. I'm looking at a magma sea with deposits lining the walls. --[[User:TarrVetus|TarrVetus]] 12:59, 2 April 2010 (UTC)

:It's still [[adamantine]]. Without spoiling too much, I must ask rhetorically: has anything good ever come of mining too much of it? Has there not always been a horrific punishment to go along with the unimaginable wealth it brings? How about you dig a bit deeper, my little lamb... and maybe even deeper... what's the worst that could happen? :3 --[[User:Mr Frog|Mr Frog]] 22:55, 3 April 2010 (UTC)

== Messed up spoiler position ==
See the [[Raw adamantine]], The spoiler is in a different position, I'm going to revise it, so all non super-spoily stuff is above the spoiler. --[[User:Tarran|Tarran]] 02:57, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

==Okay, that about does it ==
Not only did my suturer ignore the thread stored in my hospital, no, he had to pick adamantine strands, too --[[Special:Contributions/92.202.58.117|92.202.58.117]] 17:36, 21 April 2010 (UTC)

==Stockpiles==
What kind of stockpile are adamantine strands stored on? I can't find an option for them under cloth or any other stockpile category.
:Cloth stockpiles, what is odd though is that whether or not a stockpile takes strands is determined by whetehr or not the stockpile takes 'Cloth > Thread (silk) > Phantom spider silk thread'. [[User:MLegion|MLegion]] 20:44, 10 July 2010 (UTC)

== raws ==

what does the tag "[DEEP_SPECIAL]" do?[[User:1337 w0n|1337 w0n]] 20:12, 14 September 2010 (UTC)
:For stone, it makes it appear in the tubular veins like raw adamantine does. With metals, I'm guessing it has the same effect as [DEEP] did back in 40d - preventing the civilization from having any access to the material for purposes of trade. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 01:59, 15 September 2010 (UTC)

== Urist Cancels Make adamantine waffers: Needs 15000 adamantine strands. ==

So raw adamantine has around 15000 strands.--[[Special:Contributions/190.139.218.44|190.139.218.44]] 22:54, 16 September 2010 (UTC)
:Yes, and processing one chunk of raw adamantine technically yields 15000 strands - an "adamantine strands" of dimension 15000 (as with all thread objects). --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 00:24, 17 September 2010 (UTC)

== Quality review request ==

I don't want to add content and upgrade the quality at the same time; would someone else check and see if this article should be upgraded on the quality scale? [[User:Decius|Decius]] 01:52, 8 November 2010 (UTC)

===elevator===
a semi working elevator exists. 1 step a sec. allows digging and wood chopping. [http://dffd.wimbli.com/file.php?id=3433]

== (though i can't see why you would want to waste such a precious metal for such a meager purpose). ==

----
because of my legendary craftdwarves, that's why! -[[Special:Contributions/91.10.239.79|91.10.239.79]] 09:22, 19 December 2010 (UTC)

== Wafers -> Full set of armor? ==
How many wafers does it take to kit up a soldier fully (weapon, shield, breastplate, boots, helm, gauntlets, greaves)? I'm assuming seven because that's how much it takes for regular metal, but I remember reading somewhere that it took 20 or so. [[User:SirAaronIII|SirAaronIII]] 07:52, 6 February 2011 (UTC)
:There are different variants of "full kit" (you can check it at the Armor Page). You can give your soldiers adamantine clothing (clothiers may use adamantine as well as armorers), you can give each soldier 2 or 3 mail shirts under his breastplate, cap under helm etc... Finally, breastplates and greaves have to take 3 and 2 pieces of ore, respectively - it's actually a but that they only require one. So, with all this in mind, it may just take 20+ pieces of ore to fully equip a single dwarf.

== Clothing ==

How do you make clothing out of adamantine? I tried choosing cloth clothing in the clothier's shop, but that apparently refers to plant cloth. [[Special:Contributions/70.231.250.12|70.231.250.12]] 05:25, 28 June 2011 (UTC)
:Oh, I didn't see the option to make metal clothing at the forge. [[Special:Contributions/70.231.250.12|70.231.250.12]] 07:39, 28 June 2011 (UTC)

== Tower of Adamantine ==

So...I just started a map where I was going for lots of minerals, evilness, and savagery. The one thing I didn't count on was an elevator to hell. Maybe not an elevator per se, but a tower leading strait there, I'm guessing. There's a "vein" of the precious mineral sticking up out of the ground on my map up to level 151 (causing map to extend to level 172, of course) and it is hollow. I can't see exactly how far down it goes, but I'm guessing it leads to a really bad place. The reason I'm mentioning this is because the frame rate has dropped (game just started...not a single full day has passed yet) down to about a frame every two or three seconds and I'm wondering if "plugging the hole" will restore the frame rate (no more pathing the deamons). Does anyone know? If not, is there anything I can do to still play the map?

And, in case anyone is wondering I bought this computer for its processing power one year ago so this map is eating up processing like mad! I've also saved a copy in case anyone's interested. [[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 05:17, 16 September 2011 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Ambush

2010-11-30T12:56:16Z

Frewfrux: /* Spawning Points */

== No More Ambushes ==
As soon as I had my first goblin siege, their ambushes stopped appearing. Feature, bug, or result of not going outside much anymore? [[User:Aussiemon|Aussiemon]] 23:09, 28 August 2010 (UTC)

---It probably isn't not going outside much- as all hostile units will automatically path towards the nearest dwarf/animal. Unless you have a rediculous amount of weapon/stonefall traps that kill them without noticing, you should be getting ambushed.

== Factors Determining Likelihood of Ambush? ==
Does anyone know what factors determine the chance of an Ambush? Does distance to enemy civs matter? Number of dwarfs? Wealth produced and/or exported?
*oopsie, forgot to sign that. Some more data: I just ran three games through spring of '52. In all of them, I focused solely on defense, creating very little wealth except for armor and weapons. In two of those, Goblins were the closest civ besides Dwarfs, and I was ambushed directly after the first Elven caravan showed up in the spring, by two squads of six or so each, one squad being crossbowgoblins. In the third, Goblins were the furthest civ, it is now autumn of '52 and I haven't even seen a Goblin snatcher yet, just Kobold thieves. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 22:12, 29 October 2010 (UTC)

==Ambush Frequency==
I am currently into my 6th in game year and I just got my first ambush (or any sign of enemies) now (it was 3 ambushes and a kidnapper in 1).
Is this normal? because it seemed that i had to wait quite a while till i saw any sign of goblins.
Also i started the game with no generated history (started at year 1) could this be the cause?
:Maybe it has something to do with your chosen fortress's proximity to the goblin empire? If you build far enough away, perhaps it takes a while for them to first show up? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 12:55, 30 November 2010 (UTC)

==Spawning Points==
I designed my fortress to be completely sealed from the outside world and used the "air lock" method to engage in trade. At no point after my outer wall was finished was an entrance into the fort ever opened, except when accepting migrants who came in through a tunnel gaurded by war dogs. I had not dug down deep enough to open up any caverns.

Imagine my surprise (and frustration) when I got the announcement that there was an ambush...in the very bowels of my fort. A lone goblin lasher spawned within my fortress walls and in the center of a group of dwarves. I checked all the entrance points to the fort and there were none (unless he somehow slipped past a completely submerged floodgate). He had to have spawned there. I did not realize this was possible. Is this a bug?

(Just to reiterate, there was NO ENTRY point into the fort AT ALL. This was evidenced by the fact that there were, at the time of this ambush, two other ambushes looking to gain entrance who were just wondering around outside because they couldn't get in.) --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 12:52, 30 November 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Ambush

2010-11-30T12:55:07Z

Frewfrux: /* Ambush Frequency */

== No More Ambushes ==
As soon as I had my first goblin siege, their ambushes stopped appearing. Feature, bug, or result of not going outside much anymore? [[User:Aussiemon|Aussiemon]] 23:09, 28 August 2010 (UTC)

---It probably isn't not going outside much- as all hostile units will automatically path towards the nearest dwarf/animal. Unless you have a rediculous amount of weapon/stonefall traps that kill them without noticing, you should be getting ambushed.

== Factors Determining Likelihood of Ambush? ==
Does anyone know what factors determine the chance of an Ambush? Does distance to enemy civs matter? Number of dwarfs? Wealth produced and/or exported?
*oopsie, forgot to sign that. Some more data: I just ran three games through spring of '52. In all of them, I focused solely on defense, creating very little wealth except for armor and weapons. In two of those, Goblins were the closest civ besides Dwarfs, and I was ambushed directly after the first Elven caravan showed up in the spring, by two squads of six or so each, one squad being crossbowgoblins. In the third, Goblins were the furthest civ, it is now autumn of '52 and I haven't even seen a Goblin snatcher yet, just Kobold thieves. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 22:12, 29 October 2010 (UTC)

==Ambush Frequency==
I am currently into my 6th in game year and I just got my first ambush (or any sign of enemies) now (it was 3 ambushes and a kidnapper in 1).
Is this normal? because it seemed that i had to wait quite a while till i saw any sign of goblins.
Also i started the game with no generated history (started at year 1) could this be the cause?
:Maybe it has something to do with your chosen fortress's proximity to the goblin empire? If you build far enough away, perhaps it takes a while for them to first show up? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 12:55, 30 November 2010 (UTC)

==Spawning Points==
I designed my fortress to be completely sealed from the outside world and used the "air lock" method to engage in trade. At no point after my outer wall was finished was an entrance into the fort ever opened, except when accepting migrants who came in through a tunnel gaurded by war dogs. I had not dug down deep enough to open up any caverns.

Imagine my surprise (and frustration) when I got the announcement that there was an ambush...in the very bowels of my fort. A lone goblin lasher spawned within my fortress walls and in the center of a group of dwarves. I checked all the entrance points to the fort and there were none (unless he somehow slipped past a completely submerged floodgate). He had to have spawned there. I did not realize this was possible. Is this a bug?

(Just to reiterate, there was NO ENTRY point into the fort AT ALL. This was evidenced by the fat that there were, at the time of this ambush, two other ambushes looking to gain entrance who were just wondering around outside because they couldn't get in.) --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 12:52, 30 November 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Ambush

2010-11-30T12:52:51Z

Frewfrux:

== No More Ambushes ==
As soon as I had my first goblin siege, their ambushes stopped appearing. Feature, bug, or result of not going outside much anymore? [[User:Aussiemon|Aussiemon]] 23:09, 28 August 2010 (UTC)

---It probably isn't not going outside much- as all hostile units will automatically path towards the nearest dwarf/animal. Unless you have a rediculous amount of weapon/stonefall traps that kill them without noticing, you should be getting ambushed.

== Factors Determining Likelihood of Ambush? ==
Does anyone know what factors determine the chance of an Ambush? Does distance to enemy civs matter? Number of dwarfs? Wealth produced and/or exported?
*oopsie, forgot to sign that. Some more data: I just ran three games through spring of '52. In all of them, I focused solely on defense, creating very little wealth except for armor and weapons. In two of those, Goblins were the closest civ besides Dwarfs, and I was ambushed directly after the first Elven caravan showed up in the spring, by two squads of six or so each, one squad being crossbowgoblins. In the third, Goblins were the furthest civ, it is now autumn of '52 and I haven't even seen a Goblin snatcher yet, just Kobold thieves. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 22:12, 29 October 2010 (UTC)

==Ambush Frequency==
I am currently into my 6th in game year and I just got my first ambush (or any sign of enemies) now (it was 3 ambushes and a kidnapper in 1).
Is this normal? because it seemed that i had to wait quite a while till i saw any sign of goblins.
Also i started the game with no generated history (started at year 1) could this be the cause?

==Spawning Points==
I designed my fortress to be completely sealed from the outside world and used the "air lock" method to engage in trade. At no point after my outer wall was finished was an entrance into the fort ever opened, except when accepting migrants who came in through a tunnel gaurded by war dogs. I had not dug down deep enough to open up any caverns.

Imagine my surprise (and frustration) when I got the announcement that there was an ambush...in the very bowels of my fort. A lone goblin lasher spawned within my fortress walls and in the center of a group of dwarves. I checked all the entrance points to the fort and there were none (unless he somehow slipped past a completely submerged floodgate). He had to have spawned there. I did not realize this was possible. Is this a bug?

(Just to reiterate, there was NO ENTRY point into the fort AT ALL. This was evidenced by the fat that there were, at the time of this ambush, two other ambushes looking to gain entrance who were just wondering around outside because they couldn't get in.) --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 12:52, 30 November 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Release information/0.31.08

2010-06-24T14:17:56Z

Frewfrux: Blanked the page

v0.31 Talk:Release information/0.31.08

2010-06-24T14:17:22Z

Frewfrux: Created page with '== 0.31.06 Saves Are Not Compatible == I copied over my fort from version .06 into this one (.08) and have the option to create new world or start playing. It seem .08 sees my …'

== 0.31.06 Saves Are Not Compatible ==

I copied over my fort from version .06 into this one (.08) and have the option to create new world or start playing. It seem .08 sees my game, but will not let me continue playing it. It will only let me start a new game on the same map. (I'm not sure if this should go here, or in that bug tracker, but I'm not sure it's a bug.) --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 14:17, 24 June 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Magma forge

2010-06-17T19:59:55Z

Frewfrux: /* Magma Multiple Z-Levels Down */

== Magma Multiple Z-Levels Down ==

When building a well it doesn’t matter how many z-levels down the water is, just as long as there is a clear path to water that is at least 3/7 deep. Does anyone know if this is true for magma workshops? Could my magma forge be on level 100 and the magma itself be on level -10, as long as there is a clear path between the two? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 18:28, 17 June 2010 (UTC)
: No, the magma has to be directly (-1 z level) below the magma-powered building.

z 1 forge
z 0 forge
z -1 magma magma
z -2
'''works''' '''works not!'''

Greetings --[[User:Used|Used]] 18:49, 17 June 2010 (UTC)
::Nuts. I was hoping to avoid building 100+ magma-safe pumps. Well, time to train a legendary blacksmith. :) --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 19:59, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Magma forge

2010-06-17T18:28:11Z

Frewfrux: Created page with '== Magma Multiple Z-Levels Down == When building a well it doesn’t matter how many z-levels down the water is, just as long as there is a clear path to water that is at least …'

v0.31 Talk:Irrigation

2010-06-17T16:22:02Z

Frewfrux: /* Pond Method Not 100% Reliable */

Just few notes:
* You can make farms in 1/7. There is no need to wait till it evaporates.
* River does not have to be above farm, it can be on same level. You just dig straight into it, with floodgate installed in the tunnel and lever pulled. [[User:RusAnon|RusAnon]] 20:26, 4 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farms in deeper water ==
My farmers do not seem to be bothered by my farms being 2/7 deep in water (poor water control). Anyone else seen similar? --[[Special:Contributions/131.111.254.209|131.111.254.209]] 10:26, 11 April 2010 (UTC)

Dwarves can walk through 1/7 and 2/7 water covered tiles, but cannot work that actual tile, so no planting seeds or harvesting plants until the water evaporates. The plants aren't actually bothered by water depth, so they will mature despite being under water. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 17:31, 10 May 2010 (UTC)

:Dwarves can create farms, plant, and harvest in 1/7 water. True in 40d and true in 2010.<br/>—[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 20:10, 10 May 2010 (UTC)

== Due to a bug ==

Can someone confirm if this is a bug? Otherwise, I'm assuming it's an intentional change and removing that comment.[[User:Studoku|Studoku]] 02:30, 5 April 2010 (UTC)
:Yup. Baguhn confirmed it here: [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336] --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 01:25, 9 April 2010 (UTC)
::Toady's comment on this was much more vague - rewording it. --[[User:Old Ancient|Old Ancient]] 05:36, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Designating a pond ==

I'm trying to follow the instructions for bucket irrigation, and I can't designate a pond either in the open space above the farm, or in the stone floor of the farm itself. The only place I seem to be able to designate a pond is over the brook, which makes no sense at all. Running 0.31.03. -[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 21:04, 21 April 2010 (UTC)
: Ah, I found the trick. I could only designate a one-tile pit/pond zone on the ramp leading down to the farm. I couldn't designate anything on the farm itself. After designating the pit/pond, you have to press [P] and [f] to toggle it from pit to pond. -[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 14:22, 22 April 2010 (UTC)

== Exceptional rating ==

As this article contains quite a lot of information, I've added the appropriate category, and the tileset criterion does not currently appear to be a requirement for Exceptional quality, I have moved this article up from Fine. --[[User:FunkyWaltDogg|FunkyWaltDogg]] 14:59, 11 May 2010 (UTC)
: Awesome. Thank you everyone who helped make this article.-[[User:Studoku|Studoku]] 03:16, 12 May 2010 (UTC)

== Exact Calculation ==

Why the exact calculation for the water above a farm? Why not flood a room, then pull a lever to open a hatch to a cistern below the farm? I have just tried this, seems to work fine. [[User:Fephisto|Fephisto]] 00:17, 16 June 2010 (UTC)

== Pond Method Not 100% Reliable ==

This needs more testing, but here are the steps I took and their results:

1) dug out a 5 x 9 room in stone (not soil)<br />
2) added doors to the room and locked them tight<br />
3) channeled two hole in the ceiling (evenly spaced) and marked them as ponds<br />
4) dwarves used water from a well to (slowly) fill the room

Initial results: watered tiles showed mud. Eventual results: only about 1/3 to 1/2 of the watered tiles contained mud (but all were marked as damp). I watched the process carefully after noticing this and it seems that occasionally the added water was “washing away” the piles of mud. Dwarves were not cleaning the mud away as the doors to the room were locked (not that they do this normally, but it was one of my initial thoughts). I don’t know exactly why this happened or what caused the mud to go away (except that I assume it was the water washing it away). It could be that my source of water (a well) was ‘clean’ water and not muddy water (as all water from wells is) but then I don't know where any of the mud came from if that's the case. Can anyone confirm this? (This was done in version 31.04) --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 16:20, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Irrigation

2010-06-17T16:21:14Z

Frewfrux: /* Pond Method Not 100% Reliable */

Just few notes:
* You can make farms in 1/7. There is no need to wait till it evaporates.
* River does not have to be above farm, it can be on same level. You just dig straight into it, with floodgate installed in the tunnel and lever pulled. [[User:RusAnon|RusAnon]] 20:26, 4 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farms in deeper water ==
My farmers do not seem to be bothered by my farms being 2/7 deep in water (poor water control). Anyone else seen similar? --[[Special:Contributions/131.111.254.209|131.111.254.209]] 10:26, 11 April 2010 (UTC)

Dwarves can walk through 1/7 and 2/7 water covered tiles, but cannot work that actual tile, so no planting seeds or harvesting plants until the water evaporates. The plants aren't actually bothered by water depth, so they will mature despite being under water. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 17:31, 10 May 2010 (UTC)

:Dwarves can create farms, plant, and harvest in 1/7 water. True in 40d and true in 2010.<br/>—[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 20:10, 10 May 2010 (UTC)

== Due to a bug ==

Can someone confirm if this is a bug? Otherwise, I'm assuming it's an intentional change and removing that comment.[[User:Studoku|Studoku]] 02:30, 5 April 2010 (UTC)
:Yup. Baguhn confirmed it here: [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336] --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 01:25, 9 April 2010 (UTC)
::Toady's comment on this was much more vague - rewording it. --[[User:Old Ancient|Old Ancient]] 05:36, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Designating a pond ==

I'm trying to follow the instructions for bucket irrigation, and I can't designate a pond either in the open space above the farm, or in the stone floor of the farm itself. The only place I seem to be able to designate a pond is over the brook, which makes no sense at all. Running 0.31.03. -[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 21:04, 21 April 2010 (UTC)
: Ah, I found the trick. I could only designate a one-tile pit/pond zone on the ramp leading down to the farm. I couldn't designate anything on the farm itself. After designating the pit/pond, you have to press [P] and [f] to toggle it from pit to pond. -[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 14:22, 22 April 2010 (UTC)

== Exceptional rating ==

As this article contains quite a lot of information, I've added the appropriate category, and the tileset criterion does not currently appear to be a requirement for Exceptional quality, I have moved this article up from Fine. --[[User:FunkyWaltDogg|FunkyWaltDogg]] 14:59, 11 May 2010 (UTC)
: Awesome. Thank you everyone who helped make this article.-[[User:Studoku|Studoku]] 03:16, 12 May 2010 (UTC)

== Exact Calculation ==

Why the exact calculation for the water above a farm? Why not flood a room, then pull a lever to open a hatch to a cistern below the farm? I have just tried this, seems to work fine. [[User:Fephisto|Fephisto]] 00:17, 16 June 2010 (UTC)

== Pond Method Not 100% Reliable ==

This needs more testing, but here are the steps I took and their results:

1) dug out a 5 x 9 room in stone (not soil)<br />
2) added doors to the room and locked them tight<br />
3) channeled two hole in the ceiling (evenly spaced) and marked them as ponds<br />
4) dwarves used water from a well to (slowly) fill the room

Initial results: watered tiles showed mud. Eventual results: only about 1/3 to 1/2 of the watered tiles contained mud (but all were marked as damp). I watched the process carefully after noticing this and it seems that occasionally the added water was “washing away” the piles of mud. Dwarves were not cleaning the mud away as the doors to the room were locked (not that they do this normally, but it was one of my initial thoughts). I don’t know exactly why this happened or what caused the mud to go away (except that I assume it was the water washing it away). It could be that my source of water (a well) was ‘clean’ water and not muddy water (as all water from wells is) but then I don't know where any of the mud came from if that's the case. Can anyone confirm this? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 16:20, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Irrigation

2010-06-17T16:20:13Z

Frewfrux:

Just few notes:
* You can make farms in 1/7. There is no need to wait till it evaporates.
* River does not have to be above farm, it can be on same level. You just dig straight into it, with floodgate installed in the tunnel and lever pulled. [[User:RusAnon|RusAnon]] 20:26, 4 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farms in deeper water ==
My farmers do not seem to be bothered by my farms being 2/7 deep in water (poor water control). Anyone else seen similar? --[[Special:Contributions/131.111.254.209|131.111.254.209]] 10:26, 11 April 2010 (UTC)

Dwarves can walk through 1/7 and 2/7 water covered tiles, but cannot work that actual tile, so no planting seeds or harvesting plants until the water evaporates. The plants aren't actually bothered by water depth, so they will mature despite being under water. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 17:31, 10 May 2010 (UTC)

:Dwarves can create farms, plant, and harvest in 1/7 water. True in 40d and true in 2010.<br/>—[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 20:10, 10 May 2010 (UTC)

== Due to a bug ==

Can someone confirm if this is a bug? Otherwise, I'm assuming it's an intentional change and removing that comment.[[User:Studoku|Studoku]] 02:30, 5 April 2010 (UTC)
:Yup. Baguhn confirmed it here: [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336] --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 01:25, 9 April 2010 (UTC)
::Toady's comment on this was much more vague - rewording it. --[[User:Old Ancient|Old Ancient]] 05:36, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Designating a pond ==

I'm trying to follow the instructions for bucket irrigation, and I can't designate a pond either in the open space above the farm, or in the stone floor of the farm itself. The only place I seem to be able to designate a pond is over the brook, which makes no sense at all. Running 0.31.03. -[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 21:04, 21 April 2010 (UTC)
: Ah, I found the trick. I could only designate a one-tile pit/pond zone on the ramp leading down to the farm. I couldn't designate anything on the farm itself. After designating the pit/pond, you have to press [P] and [f] to toggle it from pit to pond. -[[User:Greycat|Greycat]] 14:22, 22 April 2010 (UTC)

== Exceptional rating ==

As this article contains quite a lot of information, I've added the appropriate category, and the tileset criterion does not currently appear to be a requirement for Exceptional quality, I have moved this article up from Fine. --[[User:FunkyWaltDogg|FunkyWaltDogg]] 14:59, 11 May 2010 (UTC)
: Awesome. Thank you everyone who helped make this article.-[[User:Studoku|Studoku]] 03:16, 12 May 2010 (UTC)

== Exact Calculation ==

Why the exact calculation for the water above a farm? Why not flood a room, then pull a lever to open a hatch to a cistern below the farm? I have just tried this, seems to work fine. [[User:Fephisto|Fephisto]] 00:17, 16 June 2010 (UTC)

== Pond Method Not 100% Reliable ==

This needs more testing, but here are the steps I took and their results:

1) dug out a 5 x 9 room in stone (not soil)
2) added doors to the room and locked them tight
3) channeled two hole in the ceiling (evenly spaced) and marked them as ponds
4) dwarves used water from a well to (slowly) fill the room

Initial results: watered tiles showed mud. Eventual results: only about 1/3 to 1/2 of the watered tiles contained mud (but all were marked as damp). I watched the process carefully after noticing this and it seems that occasionally the added water was “washing away” the piles of mud. Dwarves were not cleaning the mud away as the doors to the room were locked (not that they do this normally, but it was one of my initial thoughts). I don’t know exactly why this happened or what caused the mud to go away (except that I assume it was the water washing it away). It could be that my source of water (a well) was ‘clean’ water and not muddy water (as all water from wells is) but then I don't know where any of the mud came from if that's the case. Can anyone confirm this? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 16:20, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Farming

2010-06-17T01:47:24Z

Frewfrux: /* Seeds can not be grown on non-soil, non-subterranean tiles */

Placing a farm on rock
Needs Soil or mud
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on surface soil
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on mud found in an underground complex
<<No Error Message>>

So This is either a major bug, or a mechanics change and a minor text inconsistency.[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 22:35, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:This is a bug. You're supposed to be able to farm on soil. I'll try to track down the forum thread, one moment --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:37, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:Aha, so saith the Baughn: http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336
:--[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:41, 1 April 2010 (UTC)
::Who is but a lowly dabbling SDL coder and has not insight into the game code or Toady's intentions.--[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 15:31, 23 May 2010 (UTC)

== Seeds can not be grown on non-soil, non-subterranean tiles ==

I recently attempted to follow the advice in the article, channeling out several tiles near a river, irrigating them, and building a farm plot on the muddied tiles. However, when I tried to set the field to be planted, all seeds (surface AND subterranean) are disabled, and the message "No seeds available for this location" is displayed. The soil layer, as it turns out, was only one tile thick, and even though the tiles are "above ground" (not even indoors yet, I haven't built a roof over them), they are ineligible for any seeds to be planted on... subterranean crops because the tiles are above ground, and surface crops because the floors are mud-covered diorite instead of one of the clay/sand/soil types.

So, be warned... attempting to create an indoor, irrigated surface crop farm will not work if you accidentally channel down to stone. Surface crops will not grow in mud-covered rock, only in soil (mud-covered or otherwise). --[[User:Tatterdemalian|Tatterdemalian]] 22:09, 22 May 2010 (UTC)
:Have same problem... did you dig out the level below your "aboveground" farm? I did (z1 and z2 dug out) and I remember towercaps and the lot can't grow unless they have a floor tiles and wall below (z1 dug out but not z2), perhaps crops follow the same rules? I'll test this.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 05:54, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
::I just encountered this issue (version 31.04) but in a slightly different context. I dug out four rooms underground in sand, did *not* dig out the tiles underneath, built 4 farms on the sand without irigating, and then got the message that that there are "No seeds available for this location", despite having just embarked with many seeds. Maybe I'll try tearing down the farms and irrigating first. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 17:55, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
:::DF2010 requires farms to have mud whether on rock or soil layers. Cheers--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 00:50, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
::::Technically, it’s the bug that requires it (if I’m reading all the information correctly). It seems that DF 2010 is supposed to allow farms on soil regardless of mud. (Am I right, or is this actually intended behaviour?) I had thought that the bug was that you couldn’t build the farms without the mud, but that doesn’t appear to be the case. You can build the farms just fine, but the code doesn’t appear to “see” any valid seeds to plant after they are built.
::::I tore down my farms (successfully built on soil without mud), flooded the area, and then built them again and sure enough the farms now “see” the seeds I have. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 19:54, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
:::::I thought that farms not growing without mud underground was a purposeful change on Toady's part. I suppose I assumed that because of how subterranean trees only grow in muddied soil. Also you don't have to have mud, above ground farms accept all the correct seeds if on soil that issn't irrigated. --[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 22:00, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
::::::Hmmm. I thought that the only reason mud was needed for the underground trees was because they were on rock, not soil. Regardless, after testing it out, here's what I found:
::::::- You can *build* a farm on any soil (above ground or below)
::::::- Only the farm built above ground will "see" any available seeds (assuming no mud)
::::::- You can build an underground farm on soil and muddy the ground *afterward*
::::::- You can build a farm on part muddied ground and part soil and it will be able to "see" available seeds. HOWEVER, your dwarves will only plant on the muddied part of the farm.
::::::- Water both provides mud *and* washes it away. If you build an underground room with a hole in the ceiling and mark that hole with a "pond" zone so your dwarves bring water to it and dump the water in the room, you will see piles of mud appear on some of the tiles and be washed off of others (no idea what determines which of the two happen).
::::::And that was the extent of my testing. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 01:47, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

== Merge ==
I don't see why we need a separate page for [[Farm Plot]] and [[Farming]]. Merger anyone? [[User:Kenji 03|Kenji 03]] 12:28, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:Also, labors are typically described in their respective skill page. In this case, [[DF2010:Farmer|Farmer]] --[[User:Eagle0600|Eagle0600]] 13:05, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
::Both pages exist as full pages in the 40d namespace, in addition to a farmer page. This suggests that there is sufficient material for all three pages, although someone would need to spend more time reviewing how the topic space was divided in 40d to figure out why. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 13:44, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

::Farming desribes the concept, plant uses, importance, possibilites and caveats; Overview. Farm plot goes right down to 'key-pressing' and 'cursor-moving', that is, details and step-to-step. Ultimately it is an article on a building. I don't recall ever using the page Farm plot, but I think we should keep the 2. Looking over the old versions, I think the distinction should be made clearer, though. --[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 14:34, 12 April 2010 (UTC)

:::I agree, but with all the new info and users this approach seems not viable for now. --[[User:Confused|Confused]] 18:56, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farming Chart ==

[[Image:Df-crops-diagram.png|thumb|200px|General farming flowchart.]]
I found this chart to the right in the 40d farming page. I was just wondering if it is still current, so we can put it in the current page.

v0.31 Talk:Farming

2010-06-17T01:06:42Z

Frewfrux: /* Seeds can not be grown on non-soil, non-subterranean tiles */

Placing a farm on rock
Needs Soil or mud
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on surface soil
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on mud found in an underground complex
<<No Error Message>>

So This is either a major bug, or a mechanics change and a minor text inconsistency.[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 22:35, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:This is a bug. You're supposed to be able to farm on soil. I'll try to track down the forum thread, one moment --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:37, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:Aha, so saith the Baughn: http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336
:--[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:41, 1 April 2010 (UTC)
::Who is but a lowly dabbling SDL coder and has not insight into the game code or Toady's intentions.--[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 15:31, 23 May 2010 (UTC)

== Seeds can not be grown on non-soil, non-subterranean tiles ==

I recently attempted to follow the advice in the article, channeling out several tiles near a river, irrigating them, and building a farm plot on the muddied tiles. However, when I tried to set the field to be planted, all seeds (surface AND subterranean) are disabled, and the message "No seeds available for this location" is displayed. The soil layer, as it turns out, was only one tile thick, and even though the tiles are "above ground" (not even indoors yet, I haven't built a roof over them), they are ineligible for any seeds to be planted on... subterranean crops because the tiles are above ground, and surface crops because the floors are mud-covered diorite instead of one of the clay/sand/soil types.

So, be warned... attempting to create an indoor, irrigated surface crop farm will not work if you accidentally channel down to stone. Surface crops will not grow in mud-covered rock, only in soil (mud-covered or otherwise). --[[User:Tatterdemalian|Tatterdemalian]] 22:09, 22 May 2010 (UTC)
:Have same problem... did you dig out the level below your "aboveground" farm? I did (z1 and z2 dug out) and I remember towercaps and the lot can't grow unless they have a floor tiles and wall below (z1 dug out but not z2), perhaps crops follow the same rules? I'll test this.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 05:54, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
::I just encountered this issue (version 31.04) but in a slightly different context. I dug out four rooms underground in sand, did *not* dig out the tiles underneath, built 4 farms on the sand without irigating, and then got the message that that there are "No seeds available for this location", despite having just embarked with many seeds. Maybe I'll try tearing down the farms and irrigating first. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 17:55, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
:::DF2010 requires farms to have mud whether on rock or soil layers. Cheers--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 00:50, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
::::Technically, it’s the bug that requires it (if I’m reading all the information correctly). It seems that DF 2010 is supposed to allow farms on soil regardless of mud. (Am I right, or is this actually intended behaviour?) I had thought that the bug was that you couldn’t build the farms without the mud, but that doesn’t appear to be the case. You can build the farms just fine, but the code doesn’t appear to “see” any valid seeds to plant after they are built.
::::I tore down my farms (successfully built on soil without mud), flooded the area, and then built them again and sure enough the farms now “see” the seeds I have. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 19:54, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
:::::I thought that farms not growing without mud underground was a purposeful change on Toady's part. I suppose I assumed that because of how subterranean trees only grow in muddied soil. Also you don't have to have mud, above ground farms accept all the correct seeds if on soil that issn't irrigated. --[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 22:00, 16 June 2010 (UTC)

== Merge ==
I don't see why we need a separate page for [[Farm Plot]] and [[Farming]]. Merger anyone? [[User:Kenji 03|Kenji 03]] 12:28, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:Also, labors are typically described in their respective skill page. In this case, [[DF2010:Farmer|Farmer]] --[[User:Eagle0600|Eagle0600]] 13:05, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
::Both pages exist as full pages in the 40d namespace, in addition to a farmer page. This suggests that there is sufficient material for all three pages, although someone would need to spend more time reviewing how the topic space was divided in 40d to figure out why. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 13:44, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

::Farming desribes the concept, plant uses, importance, possibilites and caveats; Overview. Farm plot goes right down to 'key-pressing' and 'cursor-moving', that is, details and step-to-step. Ultimately it is an article on a building. I don't recall ever using the page Farm plot, but I think we should keep the 2. Looking over the old versions, I think the distinction should be made clearer, though. --[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 14:34, 12 April 2010 (UTC)

:::I agree, but with all the new info and users this approach seems not viable for now. --[[User:Confused|Confused]] 18:56, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farming Chart ==

[[Image:Df-crops-diagram.png|thumb|200px|General farming flowchart.]]
I found this chart to the right in the 40d farming page. I was just wondering if it is still current, so we can put it in the current page.

v0.31 Talk:Farming

2010-06-16T19:54:04Z

Frewfrux: /* Seeds can not be grown on non-soil, non-subterranean tiles */

Placing a farm on rock
Needs Soil or mud
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on surface soil
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on mud found in an underground complex
<<No Error Message>>

So This is either a major bug, or a mechanics change and a minor text inconsistency.[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 22:35, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:This is a bug. You're supposed to be able to farm on soil. I'll try to track down the forum thread, one moment --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:37, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:Aha, so saith the Baughn: http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336
:--[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:41, 1 April 2010 (UTC)
::Who is but a lowly dabbling SDL coder and has not insight into the game code or Toady's intentions.--[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 15:31, 23 May 2010 (UTC)

== Seeds can not be grown on non-soil, non-subterranean tiles ==

I recently attempted to follow the advice in the article, channeling out several tiles near a river, irrigating them, and building a farm plot on the muddied tiles. However, when I tried to set the field to be planted, all seeds (surface AND subterranean) are disabled, and the message "No seeds available for this location" is displayed. The soil layer, as it turns out, was only one tile thick, and even though the tiles are "above ground" (not even indoors yet, I haven't built a roof over them), they are ineligible for any seeds to be planted on... subterranean crops because the tiles are above ground, and surface crops because the floors are mud-covered diorite instead of one of the clay/sand/soil types.

So, be warned... attempting to create an indoor, irrigated surface crop farm will not work if you accidentally channel down to stone. Surface crops will not grow in mud-covered rock, only in soil (mud-covered or otherwise). --[[User:Tatterdemalian|Tatterdemalian]] 22:09, 22 May 2010 (UTC)
:Have same problem... did you dig out the level below your "aboveground" farm? I did (z1 and z2 dug out) and I remember towercaps and the lot can't grow unless they have a floor tiles and wall below (z1 dug out but not z2), perhaps crops follow the same rules? I'll test this.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 05:54, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
::I just encountered this issue (version 31.04) but in a slightly different context. I dug out four rooms underground in sand, did *not* dig out the tiles underneath, built 4 farms on the sand without irigating, and then got the message that that there are "No seeds available for this location", despite having just embarked with many seeds. Maybe I'll try tearing down the farms and irrigating first. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 17:55, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
:::DF2010 requires farms to have mud whether on rock or soil layers. Cheers--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 00:50, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
::::Technically, it’s the bug that requires it (if I’m reading all the information correctly). It seems that DF 2010 is supposed to allow farms on soil regardless of mud. (Am I right, or is this actually intended behaviour?) I had thought that the bug was that you couldn’t build the farms without the mud, but that doesn’t appear to be the case. You can build the farms just fine, but the code doesn’t appear to “see” any valid seeds to plant after they are built.

::::I tore down my farms (successfully built on soil without mud), flooded the area, and then built them again and sure enough the farms now “see” the seeds I have. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 19:54, 16 June 2010 (UTC)

== Merge ==
I don't see why we need a separate page for [[Farm Plot]] and [[Farming]]. Merger anyone? [[User:Kenji 03|Kenji 03]] 12:28, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:Also, labors are typically described in their respective skill page. In this case, [[DF2010:Farmer|Farmer]] --[[User:Eagle0600|Eagle0600]] 13:05, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
::Both pages exist as full pages in the 40d namespace, in addition to a farmer page. This suggests that there is sufficient material for all three pages, although someone would need to spend more time reviewing how the topic space was divided in 40d to figure out why. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 13:44, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

::Farming desribes the concept, plant uses, importance, possibilites and caveats; Overview. Farm plot goes right down to 'key-pressing' and 'cursor-moving', that is, details and step-to-step. Ultimately it is an article on a building. I don't recall ever using the page Farm plot, but I think we should keep the 2. Looking over the old versions, I think the distinction should be made clearer, though. --[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 14:34, 12 April 2010 (UTC)

:::I agree, but with all the new info and users this approach seems not viable for now. --[[User:Confused|Confused]] 18:56, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farming Chart ==

[[Image:Df-crops-diagram.png|thumb|200px|General farming flowchart.]]
I found this chart to the right in the 40d farming page. I was just wondering if it is still current, so we can put it in the current page.

v0.31 Talk:Farming

2010-06-15T17:55:07Z

Frewfrux: /* Seeds can not be grown on non-soil, non-subterranean tiles */

v0.31 Talk:Arsenal dwarf

2010-06-09T23:18:13Z

Frewfrux: /* Requirements */

==Capitalization==

Just to set a precedent - Arsenal Dwarf is a proper title and should always have its A and D capitalized on the wiki. A lot of users are confused about what the AD does or what happens before/after it appears and it'd be best to draw their eye to the title. --[[User:Retro|Retro]] 06:48, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:If it's a title, and both words are capitalized in the game, then that's how it should be in the article name, no doubt. That's always been the guideline, just rarely happens that way.--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 07:50, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
::I'm not trying to correct any listed mistakes, just wanted to make it generally known and the main article page didn't seem an appropriate place for that :P --[[User:Retro|Retro]] 00:44, 7 April 2010 (UTC)

==Requirements==

Can someone verify the requirements? I have 45 dwarves but I can't appoint an arsenal dwarf. [[User:Bouchart|Bouchart]] 23:10, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:There's no note on this page (dunno why) but there's a bug that causes your arsenal dwarf position to randomly open up sometime after you pass 20 dwarves. Just keep checking. Nobody knows why this is yet. --[[User:Retro|Retro]] 23:18, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

::In the mean time they'll pick up their equipment on their own, so it's not a big deal. [[Special:Contributions/24.255.86.193|24.255.86.193]]

:::On two maps so far I have had this position open up at around 40 dwarves. Neither time did I have a sheriff, but both times I had just "built" my first armour stand and made it a barraks for training. I don't know if it's a coincidence or not, but it would see reasonable to me that the position would only open up when it's needed. Perhaps it's even tied to the ability to store weapons/armour in weapon racks/armour stands? Needs to be tested. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 23:18, 9 June 2010 (UTC)

==Effects of removing aresnal dwarf from raws==
Other users have reported that their militaries fare better if they remove the arsenal dwarf from the raws altogether. The need for an arsenal dwarf doesn't seem to be hardcoded so the military will always gather their own equipment if you leave him out. Should this be mentioned? --Commondragon

== Her? ==

Why the strictly female reference? "the military will not carry out equipment changing orders without her processing them at her office." [[Special:Contributions/98.124.25.50|98.124.25.50]] 21:59, 22 April 2010 (UTC)
:It looks like that isn't actually true. The article refers to "him" later on when advocating the combination of this and the manager positions. At any rate, the use of the female pronoun is generally accepted as the standard. Use of the gender vague "them" and "they" is awkward in this context. If it helps, think of "her" as the default state: we all start as female in the womb, until the androgens kick in.[[User:JohnnyMadhouse|JohnnyMadhouse]] 01:06, 23 April 2010 (UTC)
::Uh, I don't know what "the use of the female pronoun is generally accepted as the standard" means. "generally accepted"? By who? Someone's since changed the article to not use either he or she, and to me using "he" just seems more obvious to me. Not that it's related at all, but we don't all "start as female". [[User:Mason11987|Mason]] <sup>([[User talk:Mason11987|T]]-[[Special:Contributions/Mason11987|C]])</sup> 21:55, 23 April 2010 (UTC)
:::I went ahead and made the article gender-neutral. "She" is the politically correct option at times when either "he" or "she" would suffice, but I figured that gender neutrality would be the best way to avoid people getting offended one way or the other. RE starting as female: During the development of the human embryo, we all do start with a female body plan that is later modified by androgen hormones. In some people, the receptors don't work. That's why we have XY women who look perfectly feminine running around. That's what I meant by us all starting as women. [[User:JohnnyMadhouse|JohnnyMadhouse]] 20:02, 25 April 2010 (UTC)

Even as a transgender person, I find the standard use the the pronoun, "she" just as weird as the use of "he." There is no "standard" either way. "She" is not standard. "He" traditionally was; take a look at English Lit. if you doubt me. That doesn't mean either should be standard. Technically, "one" is the only standard gender neutral pronoun out there, and no one wants to use that. As one of the only truly gender neutral people I've seen, I find this whole debate is kind of pointless isn't it? Just make it gender neutral and no, "she" isn't any more gender neutral than "he." Now can we please get back on point: updating the wiki to the new version?--[[Special:Contributions/76.188.109.43|76.188.109.43]] 21:15, 25 April 2010 (UTC)

v0.31:System requirements

2010-06-03T19:38:24Z

Frewfrux:

{{av}}
{{Quality|Fine}}

''If you're looking for information on improving the performance of Dwarf Fortress on your computer, see {{L|Maximizing framerate|Maximizing Framerate}}.''

'''OS'''

:* Operating System: Requires Windows NT 4.0, Windows 98, or newer

:* Non-Windows OS: Linux using Wine, native Linux version, Mac OS.

:* The [[40d:System requirements|40d article]] has detailed info on Non-Windows OS' that is probably mostly still valid.

'''RAM'''

DF is not particularly RAM-hungry. With 512MB you may be a bit on the short side, but 1 GB is absolutely sufficient. World Generation can eat up far more than that, but Generation will only be slower if not more RAM is available. Otherwise the influence of RAM on game speed is limited, as DF is not loading and offloading big chunks of data much.

There are no detailed requirements per se. However, because simply saying the more RAM you have and the faster your CPU is the better is not all that helpful, here are some stats that users have experienced while playing this game on a variety of different environments. (Please note that ‘fast game-play’ and ‘slow game-play’ are subjective terms and not intended to relay anything specific or exact. What may be fast to one person might be slow to another). It's also essential that you mention the state of your fortress - how many dwarves there are, animals, terrain, speedups, and so forth.

'''System''' : Result

'''P4 3.0Ghz with 1GB of RAM''' : Slowish

'''Dualcore 2.0Ghz processor with 2GB of RAM''' : Fairly slow

'''Quadcore @2.3Ghz with 3.25 GB of RAM''' : Fast

'''AMD 64 2.2 Ghz with 1 GB of RAM''' : Slow on maps with lots going on. Okay, but not great speed (~35 FPS) with Partial Print set on and temperature and weather turned off. It is playable until population passes ~80.

'''Intel Pentium 3-S Tualatin 1.4ghz with 1.5GB ram''' : Very slow but playable (~7FPS)

'''AMD ATHLON XP, 1.7 Ghz, 1 GB RAM, Win XP''' : Fairly Fast (~40 FPS)

'''AMD Athlon X2 dual core, 2.2GHz, 4GB RAM''' : Fast (~80FPS)

'''Intel Atom N270 1.6ghz HyperThreaded, 1GB RAM''' : Slow but Playable (12-24FPS default, 35-100FPS with PARTIAL_PRINT set to YES)

'''AMD ATHLON II 250 3.4 Ghz, 1.5 GB RAM, Win XP''' : Fast enough on Fortress, but Adventure will bog down.

'''Intel PII MMX 233Mhz, 256MB RAM, Win 2k''' : Very slow but functions enough to play Fortress

'''HP mini 110 1.6 Ghz, 1GB RAM, Win 7''' : Excelent to unplayable (130-5FPS) Depending on what you're doing

'''AMD Athalon X2 4200+ 2.2 ghz, 2.5 GB RAM, Ubuntu 9.10''' : Linux ssh server running in text-mode and able to have 3+ clients @ 70-100 fps *using previous version of DF v0.28.181.40d19*

'''ZT Computer, Intel I5, 4 core processor, 6gb RAM, 2.67ghz''' : On a max size world, 4x10 embark space, 95-100fps, occasional dips to 40.

'''Intel Atom 1.66 GHz, Windows 7 starter, Netbook, 1 Gig RAM''' : Version .04 (Windows/Small) - at 46 dwarves, 45 tame animals, map size = 2X2, frame rate 23 (13), slow but still playable if patient.

Bloodline Talk:SL Melek Arctic Hellhole

2010-06-03T12:23:31Z

Frewfrux:

I am interested in both, though my preference would be the
arctic winter one.

I do have a question, which you may or may not be able to answer, will
there be more then just a glacier biome? If not, that's fine. It would
just be very difficult (!!!) to do any farming in a map with just glaciers
all around. Though it is not impossible, just difficult. Depends partly
on if there's a way to get water. Like melting ice with magma. But I
know you don't want to give too much away, so I'm just wondering if It
would be ALL glacier or not.

-- [[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]]

:Well, I've not decided completely yet. I might have a small section of some other biome... or I might just have it all glacier with only a magma pool no magma pipe... lol!

:Either way, I may have the hardest job of getting it going in the first year... we shall see how talks with other hopefuls go. One thing to be sure, it'll be an evil area with as much "fun" as I can fit in! ;-)

:If even I can survive the first year then I expect it'll all be fine. ;-)

:-- [[User:Melek|Melek]]

::I've tried this setting before. The biggest "problem" is that creatures of any kind don't enter glacier biomes as a general rule. Those that do are few and far between. The biggest challenge is not the creatures, but survival.

::The "easiest" way to survive is to take advantage of the fact that the floor immediately above the first rock layer turns to arable soil if you build and then destroy the building. However, that is considered by most to be a form of cheating, so I'm guessing that's out of the question.

::Bringing ice down to melt does, technically, produce water...but it's not usable water. It's very weird water. Anyway, I've found that the only ways it's possible to survive is by either:

::A) having a source of water from another biome (long trips if it's off in the corner somewhere),
::B) having magma to melt ice with (I haven't tested that out yet), or
::C) bringing enough food and drink to get through 2 years which will allow you to 1) put in a request for loads of food and drink from traders (first year) and getting to the point when they come back with it (2nd year).

::Once the traders have established that pretty much all you're interested in is food and drink, it's a bit easier from there. The biggest challenge is getting there.

::Of course, if you can manage to generate a map where the traders won't visit due to the location being isolated...

::-- [[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]]

:::Well, it's all good stuff to keep in mind. I've generated the world it'll take place in... its cold and nasty... perfect!

:::If you frequent and decent forums feel free to let people know about the game and direct them to the Wiki pages.

:::-- [[User:Melek|Melek]]

::::You should put a link to the wiki article about ice in your game description and a note that everyone should read up on it prior to playing this game. Players should really have at least a little bit of an idea what they're getting themselves into here.

::::Ah, tundra. That's a great way to get critters to show up. (As opposed to 100% glacier)

::::Normally I play the graphical version of this game. It will be interesting to play the "real" version. I think I should get some practice so that I know what the different symbols mean.

::::Are we going to be re-naming dwarves to be our characters?

::::-- [[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]]

:::::I've found that wolves and blizzard men seem to turn up on 100% glacier... at least the ones I've played.

:::::I love the ASCII version. Makes me feel all nostalgic. ;-)

:::::Yeah, when you start your turn you can rename a dwarf to yourself and see how it goes from there.

:::::-- [[User:Melek|Melek]]

::::::I had one map that was mostly glacier with a corner as tundra and another corner as a different biome of tundra then the first. I did get blizzard men on that map, but not very often.

::::::(As a side note, I understand the nostalgia for ASCII. I'm actually in the middle of the beginings of programming my own rouge-like.)

::::::-- [[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]]

:::::::I'd love to have the drive to start doing some programming at home... something like a Wurm Online/Dwarf Fortress cross. But after a hard day at work programming there I very rarely feel in the mood once I get back... ;-(

:::::::-- [[User:Melek|Melek]] 06:39, 10 February 2010 (UTC)

Also interested in both, but preference on The Artic hellhole. You said there is magma on the map? Did you make it a pipe or a pool?
--[[User:Flying Dwarves Hurt|Flying Dwarves Hurt]] 03:32, 23 February 2010 (UTC)

:You're added and onlt two more people to go! To answer your question I think both maps are pipes. -- [[User:Melek|Melek]] 21:58, 24 February 2010 (UTC)

== Paused or Abandoned? ==
Is this game going to be continuing at all? I haven't heard anything for a while now, so I'm wondering.

v0.31:Challenges

2010-05-18T16:03:11Z

Frewfrux:

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional}}
==Utter Dwarfiness==
Need new ways to behave or new techniques to dip your toes into? Give any or all of your starting 7 some quirks to live up to. Want to try making your Boss a hell-bent, paranoid despot? Or establish a routine mass murder of small animals to provide your fort with raw meat by a vaguely intimidating, estranged butcher?

===Bandit Camp===
* Three or more Marksdwarves (perhaps with {{L|Ambusher|ambushing}})
* Embark site featuring places to hide

Attack and loot every enemy sentient creature you can find, such as goblins & kobolds. Develop sneaky and even horrific methods of trapping and 'processing' friendly sentients (merchants, diplomats, and even migrants). Take no prisoners and leave no evidence of foul play.

===City-States===
* All dwarves embark as peasants
* 7 or multiple of 7 of everything you bring (especially picks and axes)

At the start your dwarves split everything equally and move to 7 different locales that are not interconnected. They have to mine their own rooms, plant their own crops, use their own craft piles. This will probably require a bit of cross-fertilization until you get {{L|door}}s and can lock everyone in, but after that it is every dwarf for him/herself!

Burrows are very useful for this.

===Dwarftopia===
*Embark only with dwarves that have max skills, with no more than one miner; but bring extra copper picks.
*Separate the fortress into 2 parts: a vibrant city above, and a depressed slum below.
**BONUS: Reverse the order; elite dwarves get to live underground, while the poor have to scratch a living off the surface.
*Throw all low-skill immigrants into the pits, where they will spend the rest of their lives (unless called up for the draft).
*'''DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES''' let said immigrants socialize whatsoever with the Elite; so nobody (who matters) will be upset when they die.
**BONUS: Make it impossible for anybody to escape by using trapdoors to drop them in and bridge-a-paults for sending goods out (preferably with a carp-based sterilization system).
***MEGADWARFBONUS: Set it all up so that none of the 'elite' have to do any work; all their needs are met by the laborers. Watch what happens and laugh as the laborers die out and high society breaks down.

===Equaland===
* No embark requirements
* Construct a successful fortress
* All dwarves are given equal attention regarding quarters, dining, armament and burial
* One dwarf elected to be "The Leader" commands a lever system capable of killing a single dwarf of your choice in their room, however you wish
* Allow the Leader (your id) free reign on his power, enforcing impossible and unannounced criteria on your other dwarves with death being the only punishment

===Hermit===
* Spend points ONLY on ONE {{L|Pick}}

A well known and popular challenge. Kill off 6 starting dwarves and any {{L|immigrant|immigrants}} as they arrive, and try to make a living for the last dwarf. Turn away merchants. If they don't leave, kill them.

'''Variants'''
To moderate difficulty, feel free to allow these exceptions:
* Keep one male and one female dwarf as the Dwarven Adam and Eve.
* Keep your starting seven, but no immigrants.
* Selectively admit dwarves based on name, profession, etc.
* Embark with an anvil as well.

===Hunting Party===
* One Marksman+Ambusher
* One Cook+Farmer
* One Brewer+Farmer
* Four exclusively social dwarves
* Embark with no anvil, many hunting dogs, into a challenging biome (terrifying areas may have no supply of wood)

===Immigration and customs enforcement===
* One miner/mason/architect
* One woodcutter/carpenter/architect
* Five military dwarves
* Embark into a canyon or on a road
* Don't embark with an anvil

Spend the first year building fortifications to interdict traffic. Immigrants can build a town around you, but your original seven dwarves remain dedicated to their mission (purely military in purpose).

==="Let Loose the Dogs of War"===
* No military Dwarves are permitted, including Fortress Guard.
* No weapons or armor may be forged, and any obtained from looting must be melted down.
* War dogs must be your only form of attack and defense.
** Bonus : No traps or defense mechanisms of any kind may be utilized, only dogs.

===28 Days Later===

*Embark at a terrifying biome(Scary Biome), make sure there are zombie somethings. Set up a five thick wall around your camp. Never leave the perimeters. All migrants would be wandering survivors, let them in or don't, as they might be infected.
*Bonus: If you have "reason" to believe the migrants are infected, sacrifice them to the Blood God. Remember, he loves Magma!
*Bonus: Only Marksdwarves for defense, You shouldn't get near the zombies, as they bite.If they are wounded, they must be quarantined, and shall therefore die.
*AdvancedPlay: Add zombie to the creatures list and set them as [EVIL].
**Bonus: Send one heroic guy to save the migrants from the zombies, like in 28 days later.
**Elf skin clothing anyone?
*Keep a diary from one of the characters perspectives, to be read when the world is repopulated.

===Master Of One===
Pre-Embark:
* All starting dwarves must have only one skill

Post-Embark:
* No changes are allowed on any dwarf's labor screen, except to ''disable'' hauling labors (enabling hauling is forbidden)
* All immigrants must stay with the profession(s) they arrive with
* All peasants must be activated into the military

'''Variant:'''
*Only allow one dwarf for each skill to remain in your fort (1 mason, 1 miner, 1 farmer, etc.). Slaughter or draft all other dwarves.

===Monarch with a grudge===
* Forbid any and all use of stone and metal
* No exposed tile may be labeled "Underground"
* Artifacts containing stone and metal are to be destroyed '''utterly''' (magma or the {{L|Dwarven atom smasher|DAS}})

"Nay, no ponderous stone doors or shining silver arcades, not while I live!"
The new king has decided rocks and metals can no longer be used in construction. He'll be overthrown shortly, but in the meantime construct your fortress without them.

'''Variants'''
* Embark with no construction materials, into an area devoid of trees.
* Construct a fortress made entirely out of glass. Try not using magma or limit yourself only to clear and crystal glass.
* Build with soap bars. Show those elven traders just how much you despise their philosophies by building with stuff derived from dead trees ''and'' dead animals. Cats are an excellent source of tallow.
* Choose one type of rock, one type of metal, one type of gem, one type of wood, and optionally one type of glass. All constructions can only use those types in their construction. An easy way to enforce this with stone is to mark all but your choice "Economical".
* Bonus points: Stone is forbidden along with digging

===Noblesse requiro===
* Construct a fortress only to please nobles (who, for the sake of this challenge, are all criminally psychotic)
* Criminals who deserve justice should be incarcerated, tortured, and executed for ''any'' offense. Use your imagination for every step of the process. Remember, there is no right to a fair and speedy trial in Armok's eyes.
* All Nobles must be treated to the highest quality living conditions
* All others must be treated to the bare minimum needed to physically keep them alive
* Elected nobles are to be treated as regular dwarves, but mandates hold equal sway regarding justice

===Santa Urist===
* Embark in a glacier biome
* Take at least 3 craftsdwarves to serve as Santa's Elves.
* Export as many toys as possible. These can be your only trade good.
* Bonus: Use this user's Christmas-themed tileset: [[User:Sphr]]

===Sitting on trees===
* Construct a wooden "tree" or several, spanning many (a dozen or so) z-levels
* Establish a successful fortress not inside, but around, these constructed trees

===The Mad Butcher===
* One dedicated Butcher+Tanner
* Minimal supplies and skills, so you can bring...
* As many puppies and kittens you can afford
* All food-gathering skills (except your Butcher+Tanner and Brewing) are forbidden

Caging your animals will increase performance to prepare a suitable butchery. Construct a wide, deep shaft to be zoned as an animal pit. At the bottom, outfit an isolation chamber complete with food and alcohol stockpiles, a bed, a butchery and a tanner's workshop. An active well will prevent mishaps. You should include during the construction either an airlock chamber (to enable the butcher to pass on food) or a second pit where the butcher dumps his created food. After construction, seal your butcher+tanner inside and live only off of his work.

===The World is Flat===
* No pre-embark requirements
* You'll probably want a region with lots of hills/mountains.
* You may only work/build/live on the original Z level where your wagon was
* No moats allowed, as this requires a channel, which goes below your z-level

===Hunter and Gatherer===
Pre-Embark (World-Gen)
* Try creating a world in year 1 (optional)
Post-Embark
* Everything allowed except Farming.
Bonus
* Embark in a desert, so only hunting and (aquifier) fishing.
** Extra Points: Dont fish in the aquifier. How could the turtles get there anyway?
** Create a huge pyramid and sacrifice living beings or valuables to Armok for rain by dropping it in the hollow inaccessible pyramid from the top.
*** Extended version: Fill the pyramid with magma!
** Create lines like the Nazca to honour Armok, so he will send some rain (maybe).

===Cave Men===
Pre-Embark
An Overworld acessable cave

Post-embark
Go into the cave with all your dwarves, and try to survive the harsh enviorments of the new cave systems.
You cant use items from ground zero, all wood must be harvested in the caves, along with food.

*Bonus* no trading, who wants to enter that creepy cave anyways?
*MEGA BONUS* No dogs and no warrior dwarves.

===Fort wars!===

*The initial 7 create 2 forts on opposite sides of a map.

*After the initial 7, 1/2 of all immigrants get assigned to a burrow that encompasses one of the forts. New children get assigned to their parents fort. Each fort is self sustaining and produces their own goods. Then it turns into a competition to see which fort can produce the most wealth.
* Nobles are given free reign and will be quartered in the winning fort.
* Make a giant wall separating the forts above ground. On one side of the wall is an artificial lake made of water and on the other, one made of magma. Call forts Reliable.Excavation.Demolition and Builders.League.United.

===Deep dwarfs===
Following the embark, lock yourself up under the ground.
Don't let any of your dwarfs go outside. Let invaders into your underground maze of doom!

*BONUS: Dig deeper and deeper, abandoning the upper levels and rebuilding your fortress as you get more
deep.
*MEGA BONUS: create a caste of deep dwarfs (nobles?), who will only live on the bottommost levels.

===Earth Mover===
*Do what you need to get a huge guild of miners
*Dig every square in the map.
**Hint: you might want to turn cave-in on
**Another hint: Do you really want to put your castle up there, when your dwarfs are digging down there?

===Oh, The Humanity!===
*Live like humans do.
*Make about half of your buildings out of wood- structures that serve no defensive purpose, such as workshops, meeting halls, dining halls, the homes of the serfs and peasants etc should be wooden. You can also divide a large building up as sensible- you might make the main structure of a castle or wall out of stone for strength, then make the interior detailing, shacks, and other "addon" buildings out of wood. The important thing to keep in mind is that for humans, drafty, damp stone buildings are sometimes a functional necessity, not something they prefer.
*Build an aboveground outer wall of wood to start- you can replace it with stone once you reach fifty individuals.
*Underground areas are ONLY for mining shafts, root cellars, plumbing/mechanics, and perhaps a secret passage for your nobles to take in emergencies. No workshops, living spaces, or large-scale storage allowed.
*Most of your mining for ore and minerals should be done quarry-style, as humans are not well-suited to long-term underground life. A quarry should be a big, wide-open pit, shaped like an inverted pyramid, with a ramp leading out, so you don't feel boxed in and claustrophobic. Don't worry about the ecological impact of your surface strip mining.
*An exception to the mining rule is excavation for purposes of putting up outdoor buildings- so you can carve away a cliff wall to make room for a building, but you can't actually build *into* the wall like a dwarf would, so channel that natural dirt/stone roof out!
*All farming must be done with surface plants. No underground plants.
*Humans need several pubs so they can go bar hopping in their free time- they get bored with just one. Make sure you have a separate pub for every 15 individuals.
*Unlike dwarves, few humans have enough beard to hide their naughty bits when they run around naked. Make sure your humans have enough clothing to wear at all times.
*Finally, you need an aboveground castle. Early on, a small building will suffice but by the time royalty arrives, you'll need to have at least begun constructing a castle worthy of their station.

*BONUS: Humans enjoy bathing. If there is no pond inside your walls, build a channel to carry fresh water to an artificial pond so your people have a place to cleanse themselves. Build a 1-level waterfall in it so they can shower, and stock soap nearby.
*BONUS: Humans, as opposed to the elves reverence for nature and the dwarves utter disregard for it, actually believe it is their duty to pollute and destroy nature.
**Designate large refuse stockpiles and garbage dumps in the wilderness, and fill them.
**Chop down enough trees to piss off the elves every once in a while.
**Fill the map with paved roads. Pavement rules!

*MEGABONUS: The ultimate in human engineering. Build a 5-level above-ground mega-mall displaying all your salable wares. Build various stores for your goods, back room storage, a wishing pool for the main atrium, a food court with several "restaurants" specializing in specific foods and meals, a hair salon, a bank, and a security office staffed with rent-a-cops. Come up with more if you feel like it.
**UBER-ULTRA-BONUS: Give all the mall's stores security doors that can be controlled from the security office, for instant lockdown in case of a shoplifter. Can't have too much security!

=== Dwarfen Prison ===
Faced with raising criminal rates the king has decided to go for a zero-tolerance policy. He sent out seven dwarfs to build and manage a prison to hold the worst of the worst criminals of dwarfenkind.

* Only your initial 7 dwarfs may do any work
* All immigrants are treated as inmates sentenced to life-long prison sentences. Yes, even the children. Don't ask, you are just doing your job and who are you to criticize the dwarfen justice system?
* Every inmate is locked up in solitary confinement within his/her own <strike>bedroom</strike> cell with only a bed and a forbidden metal door. Metal bars instead of walls are optional.
* Inmates have to be kept alive in their cells, but don't pamper them: Make them live on a diet of water and raw plump helmets. Feed them by dumping the plump helmets through holes in the cell ceilings or using an airlock system. Water can be provided through a water hole in the floor leading to a sewer system.
* Should an inmate [[tantrum|start to rebel]] the <strike>[[sheriff]]</strike> chief warden should restore discipline with an iron hand.
* It won't take long until a few inmates start to [[strange_mood|go insane]] from sensory deprivation. Too bad for them.

=== Cavernous Dwarves ===
A version of ‘Deep Dwarves’ and ‘Cave Men’, this challenge takes advantage of the large, underground caverns you find when you dig deep enough.

*Dig out a few rooms near the surface to hold all your starting goods and move them all underground as quickly as possible. (Don’t forget to disassemble your wagon.)
*Designate a meeting area underground so that none of your dwarves will be on the surface and then remove the stairs/ramps leading up.
*Start digging. Dig until you find the underground caverns (around lvl 10 - 15 depending on your map).
*Treating the caverns as ‘outside’, build your rooms and halls with windows looking into the caverns/underground lakes.
*Try as much as possible to not disturb the natural formations of the caverns. Building around a pillar is fine, carving out a pillar and building inside of it is fine, but avoid removing pillars. Use the cavern floor as your main hallway.
*Starting with at least one combat-ready dwarf is advisable (you may want more than one) as there creatures lurking around every corner.
*'''BONUS POINTS''': Construct a castle in a large cavern to house your nobles and make sure that all their rooms/offices overlook the working peasants.
*'''Extra Room Challenge''': If you are looking to expand the caverns, you may drain lakes into magma seas. (WARNING: This is a frame-rate killer!!! If you try this, make sure to disable the auto-pause/re-centering for collapsing cavern messages, and expect it to take a long time to complete.) Once you have one or more lake drained, you will likely have doubled the size of available caverns to build in.

v0.31:Olm man

2010-05-18T15:36:30Z

Frewfrux:

{{CreatureInfo v0.31|name=Olm man|symbol=o|color=7:0:1
|biome=
* Subterranean water
|wiki=no
}}
{{av}}{{Quality|Fine}}

:''An animal person with the head of the amphibious olm. It lives underground near water.''

'''Olm men''' (and women) are aquatic and can, therefore, travel freely through the lakes of underground caverns. Be careful about building underground wells near groups of these creatures as they have been known to use such openings in poorly designed well-rooms to find paths into unsuspecting fortresses.

Olm-people can also wield weapons and should not be taken on by untrained, unequipped dwarves. A group of Olm-people can take out a group of untrained dwarves, even if the dwarves outnumber the Olm-people 2:1. Commonly used weapons include spears and blowguns.

{{gamedata}}
{{Creatures}}
{{Category|Humanoids}}
{{Category|Races}}

v0.31 Talk:Olm man

2010-05-18T15:28:44Z

Frewfrux:

==Olm-People Do Not Trigger Traps==
My current game has an underground cavern with a tribe of olm people. I created a 1 tile wide hallway filled with stone traps and the olm people walked right through it without triggering a single one. Anyone know if this is intentional behaviour or a bug? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 02:25, 18 May 2010 (UTC)

==Olm-People Treasure==
From the raw files you can see that these creatures are found in groups of 5-10. What you can't see is that they appear to populate the underground caverns with piles of "treasure" which they gaurd. In my current game, there are several pieces of leather which they seem to be very fond of. Anyone else seen this? Is it always leather, or are there sometimes other items? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 15:28, 18 May 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Olm man

2010-05-18T02:25:06Z

Frewfrux: Created page with '==Olm-People Do Not Trigger Traps== My current game has an underground cavern with a tribe of olm people. I created a 1 tile wide hallway filled with stone traps and the olm peo…'

v0.31 Talk:Block

2010-05-11T22:28:04Z

Frewfrux: /* Block Hauling */

== Block Hauling ==

I can't seem to be able to haul blocks out of my workshops, consequently they're all cluttered horrendously. How do I get my haulers to get rid of them? --[[User:Nimblewright|Nimblewright]] 18:04, 21 April 2010 (UTC)

:Your dwarves should haul them to bar/block stockpiles. Do you have one with space free? If you have one and they're not doing it report it as a bug! [[User:Akkie|Akkie]] 18:16, 21 April 2010 (UTC)

::If it is wood blocks you are having a problem with, it is a bug. In stockpile settings there is no such thing as a wood block. http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/mantisbt/view.php?id=439 [[User:Daniel|Daniel]] 09:24, 24 April 2010 (UTC)

:::I had an issue with this as well (with wood blocks). Until the bug is fixed, I just deconstruct and rebuild my carpenter’s workshop, then I set a small garbage zone where I want the blocks to go and mark them for dumping, removing the zone and reclaiming the blocks once they’re all moved. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 22:28, 11 May 2010 (UTC)

v0.31:System requirements

2010-04-12T21:55:34Z

Frewfrux:

{{av}}

There are no ‘official’ requirements, per say. However, because simply saying the more RAM you have and the faster your CPU is the better is not all that helpful, here are some stats that users have discovered while playing this game on a variety of different environments. (Please note that ‘fast game-play’ and ‘slow game-play’ are subjective terms and not intended to relay anything specific or exact. What may be fast to one person might be slow to another.)

'''System''' : Result

'''P4 3.0Ghz with 1GB of RAM''' : Slowish

'''Dualcore 2.0Ghz processor with 2GB of RAM''' : Fairly slow

'''Quadcore @2.3Ghz with 3.25 GB of RAM''' : Fast

'''AMD 64 2.2 Ghz with 1 GB of RAM''' : Slow on maps with lots going on

v0.31:System requirements

2010-04-12T21:55:03Z

Frewfrux:

{{av}}

There are no ‘official’ requirements, per say. However, because simply saying the more RAM you have and the faster your CPU is the better is not all that helpful, here are some stats that users have discovered while playing this game on a variety of different environments. (Please note that ‘fast game-play’ and ‘slow game-play’ are subjective terms and not intended to relay anything specific or exact. What may be fast to one person might be slow to another.)

'''System''' : Result

'''P4 3.0Ghz with 1GB of RAM''' : Slowish
'''Dualcore 2.0Ghz processor with 2GB of RAM''' : Fairly slow
'''Quadcore @2.3Ghz with 3.25 GB of RAM''' : Fast
'''AMD 64 2.2 Ghz with 1 GB of RAM''' : Slow on maps with lots going on

v0.31 Talk:Squad

2010-04-12T11:39:18Z

Frewfrux: /* How to Activate a Squad */

==Doing Stuff==
Since the major edits are now in, and the redirect is closed, I think it's probably safe to go ahead and clean this discussion page back up. I'll wait for now however. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 03:40, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:(agreed, and cleaned up as per suggested) --[[User:Retro|Retro]] 05:53, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:: I'm shifting my attention back towards the various pages on fluid mechanics (water, flow, rivers, brooks, etc...). I've looked through the {{l|river}} and {{l|brook}} pages and pulled them forward into 2010 with minor editing.
::Meanwhile I am always keeping a close eye on the bug tracker for current news. If any new bugs are discovered that are relevant here, or if anything gets patched, I'll be sure to drop by over here and do updates. As for the rest of the content here, I'll let someone else worry about that for a while. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 20:04, 8 April 2010 (UTC)

==Priority Assignments and Supplies==

We still have nothing on Pri/Assignments (m-e-P) and Supplies (m-u). Dunno much about them myself yet, just saying. --[[User:Retro|Retro]] 06:39, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
: Agreed, but I'm afraid they are still quite impenetrable to me. Pretty hard to write about it when we don't understand it ourselves yet. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 15:28, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
::Yeah, ditto. I'll investigate later I guess. I suspect Priority Assignments allows you to re-prioritize what your dwarves are doing judging by its name, but can't tell how it works yet. The latter just seems to be for food/flask/water orders and the like but still going to put aside some time later to look into it --[[User:Retro|Retro]] 18:07, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:::As far as I can tell Supplies is just to set up how much food and what drinks your military dwarves carry, meaning, (0/1/2/3) rations of food and (alcoholic/non-alcoholic/no) drinks. I assume it works much like the food or water for military squads used to in 40d, except that you can tell your dwarves to carry drinks in their waterskins instead of just water, so it's nothing fancy --[[User:Ramperkash|Ramperkash]]

==Another Buggy behavior==
I'm dumping this here for now because it's debatable, and it's a bit of a mess. Here's the issue. soldiers still get unhappy thoughts from leaving their duties if they have no civilian skills. At just hearing that, it doesn't sound like a bug, it's how it was in 40d, expected behavior right? Here's what it really means in the present environment.

The thoughts in question are "upset about being relieved from duty" and "complained about the draft" and likely minor variations of the same two thoughts depending on how recent the thought was. These would apply to civilians who have no military skills, or to soldiers that have no civilian skills. The times these thoughts are believed to occur are.

:at the end of every month in the militia{{verify}}
:every time they eat or drink{{verify}}
:when joining/leaving the militia{{verify}}
:after a squad cancel command{{verify}}

If this is accurate, it basically means drafting an unskilled peasant into a squad is a very fast recipe for insanity. I saw this in the bug tracker, I haven't personally verified this yet nor have I seen what the official word is on the subject yet. I just thought I would go ahead and list it here. Do with this information what you will. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 15:36, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:Ooh, that sounds like a big one. I don't have time until tonight to add it but I'll make note of it within the article as a word of warning when I can. --[[User:Retro|Retro]] 17:37, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:: I just tried to verify this one myself with a brand new batch of 7 peasants, and then again with one axedwarf and 6 peasants. In hopes of a bit of '''fun''' I also brought along one good axe for each test which I assigned to my test subject. In both case I issued a brutal series of move, kill, and cancel commands to the dwarf in an attempt to drive him into a mad killing frenzy.
::I was unsuccessful. Despite my best efforts to be the most irritating squad commander in the history of dwarf-kind I could not seem to induce even so much as one unhappy thought with active squad commands of any kind. Admittedly, I made no effort to test for the other passive behaviors. That little test will be a lot more tedious so I think I'll leave that one alone and see if more people jump on the report or not. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 18:46, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
::: Several more updates on the ticket, and a breakthrough. On careful inspection of the thoughts page I find the thought "Complained about the draft lately." This bears more investigation. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 20:14, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:::: Wasn't that specific unhappy thought in 40d as well? Or do you think it might've changed since then to include these thoughts, being bugs or not? --[[User:Ramperkash|Ramperkash]]
::::: Yes, as I have already said at first glance these appear to be the expected behaviors consistent with 40d. However with the new military system, they occur much more frequently than you might expect which can potentially be quite dangerous. I've just updated the details above to reflect my better understanding of this issue as the reports come in on the bug tracker. I'm watching the bug tracker on the issue and attempting to verify this through experimentation as well. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 21:14, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:::::: Done some testing on this, at first I couldn't seem to reproduce it, but now I have found something. apparently a key element of this behavior is that you must have your orders set to have less than all dwarves on duty at a given time. With this setup they will periodically go off-duty and other dwarves will take their place. it is at this off-duty change that bad thoughts occur. With a rotation schedule like this you will also see a message in the announcements every time a dwarf switches duties. The workaround to avoid this bad thought problem would be to cross train all your military to have at least one level in a civilian skill which is probably not a bad plan in any event. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 03:10, 7 April 2010 (UTC)
::::::: I don't understand this issue quite as well as I like yet but I have confirmed enough to feel comfortable adding a short warning about the matter, which I have already place up in the military page. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 04:13, 8 April 2010 (UTC)

==Equipment==

Gave '''[[DF2010:Equipment|Equipment]]''' its own page, to be used for info on equipping soldiers, making/applying uniform templates, and will also serve as a good spot to store related summaries on weapons/armour much like '''[[40d:Equipment_and_encumbrance|this]]''' 40d page. Nothing there yet but we can move the stuff here into there and replace the current stuff with a summary, then expand within that page from there.

On a side note, I'm working on a Category thing for Military v0.31 that we can apply instead of this See Also nonsense every time. I'll go add it when I'm done; getting there. --[[User:Retro|Retro]] 22:02, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

==Squad or Squads?==
It occurs to me that this maybe should be the squad page instead of the squads page. I notice that the backwards link to 40d is non-functional as things are right now although that may be because there was no need for a squad page before. Anyhow, if this needs to be changed, I'm sure someone will take care of it sooner or later. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 04:35, 8 April 2010 (UTC)
:Just checked; 40d's Squad redirected to the military. So it's a new page and we can basically do what we want with it. Personally I feel the plural is more appropriate as I say things like "rally your squads," "open the squads menu," "do this when scheduling your squads" more often than I use the singular. --[[User:Retro|Retro]] 04:38, 8 April 2010 (UTC)
:: well, it's not a big deal, I'm just wondering if there's a consistency issue. Most pages are in the single form, not the plural form. But I guess it's a question for the admins to decide on, I won't worry about it. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 14:56, 8 April 2010 (UTC)

==How to Activate a Squad==
Love the changes. I think. I am unable to use them, however, likely because I am dense and not due to any bug. This article seems to go over everything except how to actually activate your squads in order to give them direct (active) commands. I have created a squad because a cougar is approaching my undefended fort. (just a bunch of civies with picks and axes). However, all of the active commands (move, attack, active, etc) are all grey'd out and unusable. I can't see anything in this article on how to actually activate a squad. Am I missing something or is something missing from the article? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 19:46, 11 April 2010 (UTC)
:Sorry, I suppose I should've emphasized - you need to select a squad before you can use it, even if there's only one. In the squads screen you can do this with a / b / c (it'll list which squad = which key) or hold shift to select multiple at once. Should fix your problem; lemme know if it doesn't. --[[User:Retro|Retro]] 20:01, 11 April 2010 (UTC)
:: Read the section on selecting a squad, it's there. There's just a ton of information to swallow so it's a bit overwhelming still. [[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 23:48, 11 April 2010 (UTC)
:::AH HA!!! That did the trick. (Thank you thank you thank you) One mutilated cougar. That was a little too easy. I was assuming that because the squad was showing up on the screen that it was activated. This does not appear to be the case. As a side note, shouldn't a cougar run faster then a group of untrained dwarves? Just a thought. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 11:39, 12 April 2010 (UTC)

== Naming Squads? ==
The change list says you can name squads, but I can't find the option, how do I do it? [[Special:Contributions/24.255.86.193|24.255.86.193]]

v0.31 Talk:Squad

2010-04-11T19:46:15Z

Frewfrux:

v0.31 Talk:System requirements

2010-04-08T03:19:02Z

Frewfrux:

I couldn't find the Mac OSX version of DF2010. Is there one? --[[User:Calculator|Calculator]] 17:29, 7 April 2010 (UTC)

:Not yet. After a few bugfix versions, (and obtaining some new RAM for his computer), Toady One will of course release versions for other OSes, but for the initial wave of bugfixes, he wants to limit it to one OS, for simplicity. I'd say between two weeks and a month before we see OSX and Linux versions. --[[User:Zombiejustice|Zombiejustice]] 18:09, 7 April 2010 (UTC)

I am trying to run the new version, but the game is painfully slow (especially compared to 40d). My computer isn't that out of date, so I was wondering what specs are recomended? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 22:43, 7 April 2010 (UTC)

:Can't really give any solid recommendations, but I can share my findings between my machines. A 3.0Ghz P4 w/ 1GB of RAM ran the new version a little slower than the old. Another machine with a dualcore 2.0Ghz processor and 2GB of RAM ran it even slower. And my main machine, a quadcore @2.3Ghz with 3.25 GB of RAM ran significantly faster than the old version. These very simplistic tests were done with the same world --[[User:Kuroneko|Kuroneko]] 23:45, 7 April 2010 (UTC)

::Hmmmmm. Maybe it's the RAM that makes the difference. And then, perhaps it's that I just keep not thinking of my computer as old. The processor is okay, AMD 64 2.2 Ghz, but I only have 1 GB RAM. It ran the 40d version great, except for the very, very full fortresses that were by a canyon. I wonder if anyone else can share their specs, and then maybe we can know what affects performance the most? Just a thought. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 03:19, 8 April 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:System requirements

2010-04-07T22:46:04Z

Frewfrux:

User talk:Frewfrux

2010-04-07T22:45:49Z

Frewfrux: /* Uploading Images */

Welcome to this wiki! Dwarf Fortress rapidly becomes more complicated, and we're always glad to have new writers.<br>
Since we prefer that you try to follow our wiki's standards, we've made a list of basic guidelines. This is a template.
* To let us know who you are, please sign your posts on discussion pages by typing <code><nowiki>--~~~~</nowiki></code> after your posts. This can also be inserted with the [[Image:Button sig756222.png]] button if JavaScript is enabled.
* Never, ever, put a question mark in the title of a page. This is not an undoable mistake. The rule list elaborates.
* When making comments on a talk page, use one more colon before each line in your comment than was used in the comment you reply to. Put exactly one empty line between comments by different users but do not use blank lines inside of a comment. If your comment has no indents, use <code><nowiki><br></nowiki></code> after each line.
* Avoid making many small edits to a page. Instead, try to make one large edit. This makes the history of the page a lot easier to read.
* Don't edit the user page of another user. If you want to tell them something, add the comment to their talk page.
* If you put a comment at the bottom of a talk page with section headers, you've probably put it in a section. Don't put things in the wrong sections. If necessary, create a section.
* Most importantly, [[DwarfFortressWiki:Community_Portal#We_are_doing_this.21_Let_us_do_it_right.|read and follow the rules.]] Really. Read them.
<div align=center><div style="width: 28em; padding: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-top: 0.5em; border: 1px solid #ccc; background: #eee; text-align: center">''"You have been processed! Go forth, now, and edit!" --[[User:Savok|Savok]]''</div></div>

Mind that you pay extra attention to that first thing in the list! --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 19:47, 20 October 2008 (EDT)

:Sure thing. I never really intended to write too much here, but I've disouvered the odd mistake (like somewhere it mentions that giant eagles are the only flying creature) and just thought I'd query the ones I saw and hopefully someone would change it. I guess, however, that errors are to be fixed by those that notice them. Fair enough. I will make sure to read over the rules before I do anything more here. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 12:37, 22 October 2008 (EDT)
::It's just a notice - not everything in the list may apply to you, as (happens to be no longer) stated in the template. I should go fix that. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 14:59, 22 October 2008 (EDT)

== [[Upload]]ing Images ==

Temporary location of Frewfrux's journals is at Daryl's Brain until such a time as
I can figure out how to upload images without the wiki thinking it's an empty file.
[[Upload]]. Or [[Screenshot]] (either one).--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 04:16, 31 March 2010 (UTC)

:Thanks. I will try to migrate over in the next few days. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 22:45, 7 April 2010 (UTC)

User talk:Frewfrux

2010-04-07T22:45:20Z

Frewfrux: /* Uploading Images */

Welcome to this wiki! Dwarf Fortress rapidly becomes more complicated, and we're always glad to have new writers.<br>
Since we prefer that you try to follow our wiki's standards, we've made a list of basic guidelines. This is a template.
* To let us know who you are, please sign your posts on discussion pages by typing <code><nowiki>--~~~~</nowiki></code> after your posts. This can also be inserted with the [[Image:Button sig756222.png]] button if JavaScript is enabled.
* Never, ever, put a question mark in the title of a page. This is not an undoable mistake. The rule list elaborates.
* When making comments on a talk page, use one more colon before each line in your comment than was used in the comment you reply to. Put exactly one empty line between comments by different users but do not use blank lines inside of a comment. If your comment has no indents, use <code><nowiki><br></nowiki></code> after each line.
* Avoid making many small edits to a page. Instead, try to make one large edit. This makes the history of the page a lot easier to read.
* Don't edit the user page of another user. If you want to tell them something, add the comment to their talk page.
* If you put a comment at the bottom of a talk page with section headers, you've probably put it in a section. Don't put things in the wrong sections. If necessary, create a section.
* Most importantly, [[DwarfFortressWiki:Community_Portal#We_are_doing_this.21_Let_us_do_it_right.|read and follow the rules.]] Really. Read them.
<div align=center><div style="width: 28em; padding: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-top: 0.5em; border: 1px solid #ccc; background: #eee; text-align: center">''"You have been processed! Go forth, now, and edit!" --[[User:Savok|Savok]]''</div></div>

Mind that you pay extra attention to that first thing in the list! --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 19:47, 20 October 2008 (EDT)

:Sure thing. I never really intended to write too much here, but I've disouvered the odd mistake (like somewhere it mentions that giant eagles are the only flying creature) and just thought I'd query the ones I saw and hopefully someone would change it. I guess, however, that errors are to be fixed by those that notice them. Fair enough. I will make sure to read over the rules before I do anything more here. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 12:37, 22 October 2008 (EDT)
::It's just a notice - not everything in the list may apply to you, as (happens to be no longer) stated in the template. I should go fix that. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 14:59, 22 October 2008 (EDT)

== [[Upload]]ing Images ==

Temporary location of Frewfrux's journals is at Daryl's Brain until such a time as
I can figure out how to upload images without the wiki thinking it's an empty file.
[[Upload]]. Or [[Screenshot]] (either one).--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 04:16, 31 March 2010 (UTC)

:Thanks. I will try to migrate over in the next few days. [[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 22:45, 7 April 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:System requirements

2010-04-07T22:43:47Z

Frewfrux:

Bloodline:SL Frewfrux Arctic Hellhole/Year202

2010-03-31T03:44:26Z

Frewfrux: Created page with 'Temporary location of Frewfrux's journals is at [http://www.darylsbrain.com/?page_id=377 Daryl's Brain] until such a time as I can figure out how to upload images without the wik…'

Temporary location of Frewfrux's journals is at [http://www.darylsbrain.com/?page_id=377 Daryl's Brain] until such a time as I can figure out how to upload images without the wiki thinking it's an empty file.

Bloodline:SL Melek Arctic Hellhole

2010-03-31T01:31:08Z

Frewfrux: /* The Journals */

=Arctic Hellhole=

''Run by'' [[User:Melek|Melek]]

back to [[Bloodline:Succession League Games|Games]]

==The Journals==

[[Bloodline:SL_Melek_Arctic_Hellhole/Year201|Melek - Year 201]]

[[Bloodline:SL_Frewfrux_Arctic_Hellhole/Year202|Frewfrux - Year 202]]

==The Embark Zone==

The location is an [[evil]], [[glacier]] and [[tundra]]. There are no [[trees]] but legend has it that [[magma]] is present.

Because this is a nasty place to set up a fortress it might be worth looking up the problems regarding having too much [[Ice|ice]] on embark before you ask to join this game... boy this is going to be [[fun]].

[[File:melek_arctichellhole1.png]]

==Current Rules==

Six players including myself, I'll take the first year and we'll keep taking weekly turns until something [[fun]] happens.

I have an FTP server which we can use for save file swapping.

No exploits or sneak peeking at the map!

==Players==

[[User:Melek|Melek]] - [[Bloodline:SL_Melek_Arctic_Hellhole/Year201|1st year]]

[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] - 2nd Year

[[User:Flying_Dwarves_Hurt|Flying Dwarves Hurt]] - 3rd year

[[User:Muxaun|Muxaun]] - 4th year

[[User:Schiller|Schiller]] - 5th year

[[User:Xvareon|Xvareon]] - 6th year

40d:Adventurer mode

2009-12-12T02:42:48Z

Frewfrux: /* Basic exploration tips */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that sealed the fate of your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

All the [[skills]] you see CAN be improved through use in game, so don’t worry about spreading them out completely evenly. In general, pick the [[skills]] you think you’re going to use. The [[skills]] are pretty self explanatory but its recommended that you put at least a few points into [[shield]] / [[armor]] and into a type of weapon. Be warned that [[weapon]] [[skills]] generally take a while to level up, so placing a good deal of points into a single weapon may be to your advantage. Also keep in mind that your skills determine what kind of equipment you have in the beginning, ie high sword skill means you’ll start with a sword. For information on the weapons and the other aspects of combat, please check the combat section. It is also a good idea to use a point or two for [[Swimming]], otherwise you might end up drowning in a puddle.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mead hall. Up on the second floor, you will see a flashing Weapon Master who happens to be the local leader - press {{key|k}} and talk to him/her, then choose 'services' for a possible [[quest]]. You can talk to the Citizens and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid if they feel like it (note, people with no combat skills are unlikely to follow you, and the leader and town guards never will.) If you choose dwarf, you start out in a region just outside the entrance to a given fortress. There is a [[mayor]] or the [[king]] himself inside the fortress.

Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Survival ===
Congratulations, you’ve created a character and are now about to embark on your fantastic adventure! For now, lets focus on the bare bones of staying alive shall we? First things first, you need food and water. If you’re a human you start with some, but barring that you may need to find a waterskin. These can be bought in human towns, specifically at the shop. DO NOT STEAL THESE OR ANYTHING ELSE. Do not pick anything up and walk outside the store before you trade for it. Why? Because you are currently weak and your neck is currently arrow bait. After getting the water skin, simply find a water source and hit (Shift+I) to interact with the object. Press the letter of the Water skin and you should be able to fill it from the water source. After it’s full press (e)to open the Eat menu and select the water. Food can be acquired from stores eaten in the same way. Beware, you won't be able to swim if you are hungry, thirsty or if you haven't slept for a day or two. If you get drowsy, just find a bed in a city or just find a good place to sleep. Avoid sleeping in an hostile place, if you don't want to have a bit too much fun.

Now that you know how to work your mouth we can move on to miscellaneous tips for survival. Firstly, you are very tasty and chances are (unless you’re an elf) the wildlife will soon be attempting to eat your face. A bear or cougar isn’t too much of a problem because there’s only one, the real problem will be wolf packs.
A single wolf is easy to dispatch, but a dozen or so can prove very problematic indeed. Beware large packs until you’ve gained a little experience. Secondly, do not piss off the towns folk, as they tend to have guards. Lastly, beware of taking quests or attempting things before you’re ready, as you will more than likely have tons of [[fun]].

=== Civilization? ===
Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and are marked with an "H" on the town auto-map. Medium buildings are stores, marked with a symbol that indicates what they sell - weapons, armor, food, clothing, trinkets. As of the current version, you start in the mead hall which is marked with an "M" on the automap. There are one or two apartment buildings buildings which are two stories, with six rooms a story; they are also marked with an "H." There are two really large buildings - the "T"emple and the a fort-like building that is marked with "K." Temples tend to have two or three levels, and a pool of water, while the "K" buildings are three or four floors high and are almost entirely empty (they will occationally contain random smatterings of clothing though, if you're looking for things to sell.)

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are one-tile-wide hallways, empty rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress Mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

==== Selling ====
You can also sell things to traders. Bones, corpses, body parts and rocks are not valuable, no matter how attached you are to a particularly aerodynamic kobold head. Small creatures discovered while {{k|L}}ooking Carefully may be worth a small amount of money. In order to sell or buy items, stand adjacent to the shopkeeper in his store, and {{k|k}}onverse with the shopkeeper. Select "Trade" and press {{k|enter}} to open the trade window.

Select each non-worthless item you wish to sell, and then set a price using the following format{{verify}}:
* {{k|a}} asking for 9000☼
* {{k|s}} +100☼
* {{k|d}} +10☼
* {{k|f}} +1☼
* {{k|g}} reset to 0☼
* {{k|h}} -1☼ (offering)
* {{k|j}} -10☼
* {{k|k}} -100☼
* {{k|l}} offer 9000☼

The use of these keys may seem non-intuitive, and this is further complicated by the limit on your available offers by your current financial health.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit. After the trade sessions, the balance of your coins will appear on a small table next to a chest.

[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' travel a considerable distance before allowing you to travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

====Managing coins====
Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most commonly giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world. Please harvest sustainably.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding a Quest ===
At this present point Quests can only be taken from people of leadership in an organization.

Human Weapon Masters: No matter what time of the day, human weapon masters will be in the mead hall, where you appear. However, if it is late they will immediately head for their homes so you may need to intercept them before they reach the door. The human capitals are not very different from the normal towns; humans have no central leadership so each weapon master is only a local leader of their own town, even at the capital the weapon master only rules the capital itself and not the other towns. Ignore the keeps; unless you're playing with a mod like LL no leaders hang out in the Keeps.

High Priests: Humans and Goblins will often suggest you ask the High Priest for quests but in all my times of doing this all this will do is allow you to join their religion. If you want to join the religion, the High Priest, as long as it is a reasonable time of day, should be wandering around the temple. Worth a visit at least as Temples are often the most interesting parts of a town/dark fortress because there are so many different kinds.

Dwarven Mayors/Kings/Queens: Hit and miss finding them, you'll generally find them on the outside of the fort but sometimes they move around; some have been known to run out of the fort and became a migrant unable to give out quests. Both Mayors and Kings/Queens can be found and both will assign Quests, which is nice. If you can't find them outside the fort you shouldn't really bother as mountainhomes take forever to search. As one might imagine the Kings/Queens can only be found at the Capital.

Elven Druids: Druids, who look like flashing peasants, are generally found in the middle of their Forest Retreats but it can be a bit hit and miss as well. Just keep looking; they don't usually seem to move and hopefully will be in the same place once the Quest is completed. Probably the 2nd easiest to find as you just look around the Forest. Despite people saying they dislike the Elves, in adventure mode they invariably give out the best Quests because Elves are not attacked by normal animals, so the only targets for your Quests will be Mega/Semi-Megabeasts or the leaders of enemy factions. Even though elves do have a capital there is nothing special to see there; still only one Druid who is only in charge of the Retreat, not the civ.

Goblin Weaponmasters/Demons: Probably the hardest to find; most Dark Fortresses are multitowered making it very difficult to find the leaders as there are several multifloored towers with twisty passages. Generally they will be in the tallest tower but this is not a definite fact. Sadly, they move around sometimes and are very difficult to find. The Demons are only in the Capital while weaponmasters exist in every Dark Fortress as local leaders. The goblins often have fun Quests as they generally seem to be at war with other civs.

Kobold Weaponmasters: Often hanging around the middle of a kobold cave camp; however, these guys cannot talk to you and as a result cannot give you a Quest (although you can use them to train your Sword skill)

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also the only way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
=== The Weapons ===
Weapons are basically divided into axe, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area. Swords are your jack of all trades weapon, doing reasonable slashing damage. They come in short, long and two handed varieties, with the two handed doing the most damage and the short doing the least. Axes are similar to swords and do slashing damage as well. They come in 3 types, battle axe, great axe and halberd. The battle axe does slightly less damage than the long sword while the halberd does the same damage as a two-handed sword. The Great axe is generally too large to use, but it does slightly more than the halberd in damage. The spear does piercing damage and is ideal for damaging internal organs and causing heavy bleeding and unconsciousness. It has no variations. The spear is much more likely to become stuck in its target, which can be a great benefit if used right and a curse if not. The Pike is, for all intents and purposes, the same as a spear. The mace and the hammer are generally the same thing, simply a big metal thing to club your enemies over the head. As expected, they do high damage but their bludgeoning attacks tend to be slower and less effective , if more hilarious, ways to dispatch your foes. The Maul, a hammer, is the highest damaging weapon in the game. The last weapon is the whip, which does gore damage. Its relatively weak but has its uses. The bow throws arrows, which act as tiny spears. Basically, a bow and crossbow is like having a very slow, long range spear.

=== Weapon Tactics ===
* Sword: Once again, your general fall back weapon. It’s good against almost everything, if not being that great against almost anything. Works well against both living and non-living enemies as it actively dismembers them.
* Ax: Pretty much the same as a sword, though some people believe it hacks off limbs more commonly. Good against organics, acceptable against anything else.
* Spear/Pike: Ok, here’s where we get a little bit more advanced. The spear is most effective against organic creatures because of two abilities, pierce damage and stick ins. Piercing damage does major harm to internal organs, causing pain, bleeding, vomiting, unconsciousness and death. Stick-ins are when the weapon becomes stuck in the target, allowing it to be twisted. Twisting increases bleeding and causes extreme pain. Because of these two factors spears and pikes are ideal for single combat against organic targets. The are less effective against multiple enemies (because of the stick-ins lowering kill-to-turn ratios) and are even less effective against non-organic enemies (ie bronze colossus).
* Mace/hammer: These weapons rely on their ability to turn your opponent into a tasty pulp through repeated wacking. They break bones and bruise flesh, meaning that aside from a critical hit they generally are less likely to mortal wounds quickly. They are great for crippling organics and non-organics alike, but when it comes to a swift, efficient death they are generally less than perfect. The exception to this is high strength and mace/hammer skill which allows for instant head crushing.
* Whip: The whip uses gore damage, which is similar to a cross between slash and pierce. It can cut off limbs but is more likely to slice up organs and cause extreme pain and bleeding. A few hits will generally render an opponent unconscious and perhaps even badly injured enough to eventually bleed to death. However, the whip is a slow outright killer, sometimes needing dozens of blows to actually finish its target.
* Bow (and arrows): Arrows are much like spears, because of their piercing damage and all the benefits it has. The benefits it has however are its range and its ability to target multiple enemies. They are most effective against organic targets. You, unfortunately, are organic, which makes archers one of your biggest problems.

=== Non-weapon tactics ===

Besides your weapons you have two other major forms of attack: Wrestling and throwing.

Wrestling: Wrestling can be performed by standing next to an enemy and pressing (Shift+a) and then (enter) to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy, however things such as wolves, bears and big cats do not allow you to perform the more advanced moves. After catching hold of a body part you can perform a lock, which allows you to further sprain, break or cripple an opponent. With a free hand you can perform even more advanced moves, such as gouging out eyes or stealing weapons. To gouge eyes grab a head with an open hand, to steal a weapon, grab the weapon and then check your inventory with (Shift+I). press the button corresponding to the weapon and then press a to gain possession of it.

One of the best tactics for fighting high level weapon masters is to either break his weapon hand or to steal his weapon, essentially making him no more dangerous than a normal peasant.

Throwing: Throwing is the skill of…well basically throwing shit. And vomit. And bugs and spears and rocks so on. Just about anything can be thrown, sometimes with devastating results. While it seems like weapons (and arrows) tend to be more reliable in their damage causing abilities when thrown, just about anything can potentially be lethal. Picking up a worm and hucking it right through a dragon’s skull is not only possible, but has been done on multiple occasions. A warrior with a high throw skill is often times more dangerous with an arrow than a trained archer is.

== Wounds ==
You or your enemy are going to get hurt in the course of your adventures and its pretty useful to know exactly what’s happening when you are. Here’s a quick guide to the various aspects of wounds.

=== Wound indicators ===
Wounds come in several colors and are indicated on the status screen (press z to see your own status screen while pressing (l) to look at your enemy’s). The status screen will list your body parts in different colors to indicate how damaged they are.
White-unhurt and feeling fine

Light gray-slightly damaged, think a nasty scrape or cut.

Brownish yellow-moderately damaged, such as a mild sprain or the like

Yellow-Broken. Applied to joints it means literally broken, while applied to upper and lower body it generally means organ damage.

Red-Badly damaged. If you got this then chances are you’re in bad shape. Severely broken bones or ruptured organs. If this status is affecting anything even remotely vital you’re more than likely on your way to the grave.

Gray-lopped off or cut out. This is when you completely lose a body part. Effects include massive pain and bleeding along with ruining your promising juggling career. For some body parts (Noticeably the eye) it will not recover - if not a very long time - and will cause constant pain and unconsciousness, if so then consider restarting in a previous save or completely because fast travelling will not heal it.

=== Wound effects ===
Hands: Damage to the fingers or wrists can cause you to drop your held items, but usually only with yellow level damage. Losing a hand entirely gives you a serious handicap, which will more than likely lead to [[fun]] in the future.

Feet: Causes slowed movement and falling. If removed can cause permanent slowed movement. Removing both can cause a continuous on ground effect.

Legs: Similar to feet, though often has increased bleeding and pain effects. Loss of one will usually result in death by bleed out. Even if you survive, you’re more than likely on your way to death. Severed legs do make a lovely club though.

Arms: Damage to almost any part of the arm can cause items to be dropped. Loss of an arm is perhaps even worse than the loss of a leg, due to the loss of weapon and wrestling capabilities. Loss of both arms is both tragic and hilarious.

Head: Contains the brain, ears, mouth, nose, eyes and throat. Ears, nose and mouth are officially useless and can be cut off in an effort to appear cool. The brain, eyes and throat are however less disposable. Damage to the eyes results in loss of vision, permanent if the eyes are removed, and terrible pain. It's usually not possible to bleed to death from eye loss, though. The throat is highly sensitive and damage causes both extreme bleeding and suffocation effects. The brain is the most important thing you’ve got, and damage to it is an almost instant death. Any wound it receives will more than likely cause instant unconsciousness and severe bleeding.

Upper body: Contains the heart, lungs, upper spine, liver and kidneys. Both the kidneys and liver have similar effects; namely, heavy bleeding and pain upon injury. The spine causes nervous system damage, which can have several, sometimes permanent effects. The lungs control breathing, so piercing them can cause suffocation. The heart is the main organ of the circulatory system and damage to it is almost always fatal through bleeding.

Lower body: Contains various organs like the stomach and spleen, all of which have the same effect of bleeding, pain and nausea. Nausea leads to vomiting, which makes the wounded creature unable to attack. There is also the lower spine, which has similar effects to the upper spine.

=== Attack types and their wounds ===
Pierce-dangerous to organic creatures, you included. Often times objects with the pierce effect will become lodged in their target. Removing the weapon from its lodged position causes both increased pain and bleeding but often times can alleviate certain symptoms the piercing has caused.

Bludgeon: Breaks bones and cripples joints. Generally less dangerous to the internal organs than other damage. The danger comes from its ability to incapacitate you and then turn your head to mush.

Slash: Dangerous for its ability to sever limbs and cause bleeding. Beware its habit of decapitation.

Gore: Shreds internal organs, causing all sorts of nasty side effects. Almost worthless on non-organic enemies but can cause severe problems for you living sorts.

=== Dealing with wounds ===
In adventure mode your wounds will heal if you travel (shift + t) and they’ll recover just about anything except a lopped off limb. If you can’t travel the best thing to do is try and run from battle if you’re badly wounded, since running will give you time to stop bleeding and suppress the pain. Beware dropping your weapon and make sure to pick it up before you make a run for it. If an arrow strikes you in the chest its best to leave it there while an arrow to the extremities can be removed.

== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ==

If you recruit some new members to your party, you'll not only gain extra damage output, you'll also have someone else to take the damage instead of you!

When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks. They are found in human towns inside the [[tavern]] with the [[Mayor]] (the building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill [[wrestling]] and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill. Drunks are much rarer in the current version of the game, so it's unlikely that you'll find one.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

Some otherwise eligible companions may rebuff your offer of becoming a living shield for one of the following reasons:

If the prospective meat shield considers himself more skilled than you are, he may rebuff you with, "Ha! Such enthusiasm from one such as yourself."
This can be remedied by training your skills until he judges you a bit more skillful than he is.

Another reason for someone to refuse to die protecting you is that you already have the maximum of 12 companions, and they will rebuff you by asking, "With a band so large, what share of the glory would I have?"
But look at it this way, at least your total party size is 13 when you count yourself! Now that's lucky!

Another possibility is to ask your old, retired adventurers for help. They'll never say no unless your party is too big. They should be pretty capable since you trained them.

You can ask the Prisoners of goblins to join you, and they will always say yes, regardless of the size of your party. Being nothing more than children, they have less fighting ability than drunks. However, if you have no moral reservations, they make excellent distractions for that particularly troublesome wolf pack that you come across on your travels. (Note: Elven prisoners will not attack any "normal" creatures or ones that do not attack them. That includes wolves.)

== The Perils of the Wild ==

{{d for dwarf}}

You’ll face many creatures on your travels, several mega and semi-mega bests included if you’re taking quests. Here's a quick look at the more dangerous beasts (sentient or not) that you’ll meet.

=== The Mega and Semi-mega beasts and the sentient races ===

* Bronze Colossus: Probably one of the hardest beasts to combat due to its massive strength, impressive natural armor and complete ignorance of pain, fear and bleeding. Bronze Colossi are basically walking, dwarf crushing statues that will never stop unless beheaded or outright obliterated. They have no organs and do not bleed, making them impossible to knock unconscious. Their immense strength makes them unlikely to give in to wrestling moves (though if you can manage to lock and break a limb it will snap off rather than just becoming useless.) Because of these resistances all you can really do is hack / shoot and hope that it dies before you do.
* Dragon: The main danger of these beasts is their massive fire breath, which can consume dozens of spaces. A high block skill is recommended before you fight them. A spear is a great weapon here, as it allows you to potentially knock them unconscious within a few turns. Arrows are also good, though staying at a distance can be dangerous because of the fire breath. Beware their bite, as it can cause major damage.
* Hydra: a joke really, as It seems to lack the regenerative powers of its mythological cousin. It has 7 heads, but damage to one is as serious as damaging the head of a one headed beast. More than likely you’ll have it unconscious in a few turns regardless of what you use.
* Titan: basically an organic bronze colossus. It is essentially a larger, stronger human, with all the weaknesses being the same. Piercing and goring damage can quickly weaken and incapacitate these beasts, but keep an eye out for its wrestling, which can cause some bad joint damage.
* Cyclops: A weaker, smaller titan with one eye. Eye+arrow=win
* Ettin: A two headed giant. Basically a stronger human, usually unarmed. Just hack it until it dies.
* Giant: Just a giant human like thing. Stab it in the neck or break its limbs for massive damage.
* Minotaur: Only thing really dangerous about this guy is his horns. Pretty good wrestler but nothing that should give a reasonably prepared adventurer any problems.
* Humans: Should you wander into battle against a human force its in your best interest to disable their archers first. The only real danger humans have is their numbers and their use of items. Disarming or crippling dangerous guards or weapon maters is highly recommended, since as soon as they are weaponless they are essentially as good as dead.
* Elves: They have wooden equipment, making them laughable most of the time. Once again, the only real threat is their archers and even then they are less dangerous than humans. Elves are generally known for being annoying dicks so its recommended that you slaughter the lot. If you are an elf its recommended that you have tons of fun.
* Dwarves: Their advantage is their steel weaponry and crossbows. Their disadvantage is that their mountain homes are generally so large that you’ll only rarely fight more than one or two. Disable their weapon masters and archers then throw their own axes at them. Juggle their heads in front of their children.
* Goblins: Like weaker dwarves, with less armor and less skill. They have a feeble sense of morals, meaning that they will only sometimes attack you after you hurt one of their friends. You can basically cleave right through them with ease.

=== Other Humanoids ===

These are creatures that in shape resemble something human, but have no society.

* Antman: A half man half ant hybrid which lives in chasms. They have higher natural armor than a man, but rarely use tools. As long as you’re armed they should pose no problem.
* Batman: Half man, half bat that lives in caves and chasms. They can fly and use weapons, though they rarely do. Attacks with punches and bites; the bites are the most potentially damaging because they cause gore damage. He is the night.
* Blizzard man: Frosty’s asshole brother. Blizzard men are creatures of pure ice that strangely still have organs. They can bite and punch, with biting doing the most damage. They will melt in normal temperatures so they are only found in freezing areas.
* Dark gnome: Mischievous mountain folk who enjoy hard liquor. They‘re basically dwarfs but smaller and no where near as dangerous. Its rare that you’ll even find them, but if you do they should pose no threat to you. They punch and bite but neither is noticeable.
* Fire Imp: Little gremlin like things that are either constantly on fire or made of fire. They’re found only in subterranean lava pits, meaning that you’ll have to go searching for them if you’re ever gonna see one. They only bite (does burn damage rather than gore), but their real danger comes from their ability to set you on fire. Ranged combat is recommended, though darting forward, attacking and then jumping away might be effective if you have no other choice. They can also breathe fire at you though, so its again recommended to stay back.
* Firemen: Like the fire imps, but better. They have the bronze colossus syndrome of having no organs, not bleeding, feeling pain or being able to have weapons stuck in them. They too can set you ablaze, but they’re much harder to kill before they do it. Bludgeoning can break and hence sever their limbs. Recommended that you fight from a distance. Luckily these things only live in underground lava, so you’ll never find them without going into very specific places.
* Frogman: Half-man half-frogs that live in underground water. Like battletoads. They can’t equip weapons and are very small, making them almost completely non-threatening.
* Iron man: They are basically smaller, less dangerous Bronze Colossi. When killed they leave a valuable iron statue like goldmen in Dragon Warrior. They appear only in chasms.
* Leechman: Half man, half leech, all sexy. They have no bones, but curiously do have arms (but no legs). They can suck blood, but considering they have no bones and every blow will almost always strike a vital organ its a lot more likely that blood will be coming out of it than you.
* Lizardman: Half man, half lizard; lives in underground water. Punches and bites along with the ability to use items. Similar to many of the other half breeds, but with one notable exception. He’s a lizard.
* Magma man: A man made of pure magma. Everything about this guy is the exact same as the fire man, with the exception that he can’t breathe fire. This makes him less dangerous at a distance. Stay back and throw stuff at him.
* Merpersons: Tiny little mermaids and mermen. Not dangerous at all, and relatively rare to boot. They can equip items but you’ll probably never see one anyway. Their bones are extremely valuable.[http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=25967.0]
* Mountain Gnome: The same as a Dark Gnome, but less evil. Same things apply here.
* Mud man: Like Ironman but made of mud. Can’t equip items and only has a weak punch as a form of attack, making it about as threatening as a mudpie. Lives in underground water.
* Ogre: The middle ground between giant and human. Their punches and bites do a surprisingly small amount of damage, though they can use weapons. As with any big, organic moron its recommended to try and damage their organs to quickly incapacitate and kill them. Piercing damage is very useful.
* Olmman: Half man, half blind cave salamander. Think Gollum but even more messed up and without eyes. Their bites are surprisingly strong. Found only in subterranean water and even then only rarely.
* Ratman: Seems to attack with 4 turtle men cronies, who are surprisingly good warriors. But seriously, they’re about as weak as actual rats. They only come from chasms so don’t worry about them too much.
* Slugman: Do I even have to say? it’s a dang slug man, do you think its dangerous? Its not. Just stab it in its deformed face.
* Snail man: Think slug man, but with a shell that doesn’t actually offer any protection.
* Snakemen: The only real threat these guys pose is their ability to inject poison by biting. If it does bite you its your best bet to try and quickly kill the snake man before his poison takes effect, since it can incapacitate you.
* Troglodyte: Your stereotypical caveman. Not dangerous unless they attack in swarms and even then they are easily beaten by even a novice adventurer. Use organic combating techniques to deal with them.
* Troll: There’s no real difference between this thing and an ogre. Kill them both the same way.
* Werewolf: Or wolfman. Attacks alone and only bites with a goring attack. Bite can be dangerous but the fact that there is only one of him makes it a lot easier to fight. Fun to wrestle for experience.

=== Wildlife ===

Here’s the rundown of all the mundane beasties that you’ll run into

* Beak dog: Basically what happens when parrot gets combined with Velociraptors. They’re a little smaller than a man but quick and use their beaks and claws effectively. Try not to get caught in the center of a group of them, backpedal and cut them down as they give chase.
* Black Bear: These will only ambush you one on one, and given their relative small size and forgettable strength they should pose little threat unless you’re completely unskilled and unarmed. Because there’s only one they can be useful for wrestling practice since you can focus all your attention on them.
* Bonobo: I’ve never seen one myself, though I’ve been told they’re ape like things. Considering their squishy organs it would be best to stab them in the groin.
* Camel: Its…a camel. You’ll probably never see one.
* Carp: BEHOLD, FOR ARMOK BREATHED LIFE INTO THE VERY ROCKS IN THE RIVERS AND COMMANDED THEM TO GO FORTH AND MUTILATE RANDOM PASSERS BY. TO HIS DWARVEN FOLLOWERS HE EXPLAINED IT THUS, “F*** YOU”-the tome of Armok, chapter 2. In all seriousness though, while they may be freaking fresh water sharks in the fortress mode, carp aren’t too dangerous in adventure mode. Their biggest advantage is their environment, being water which you can not breathe.
* Cat: IT’S A KITTY! Anyways, you’ll almost always have too many of these things in fortress and you’ll never see them in adventure. Even if you did, what would you do with them? You wouldn’t hurt them would you?
* Cougar: Like a kitty, but bigger. Cougars are good wrestling practice and good shield training as well, what with the fact that Cougars suck so hard. If you get killed by this thing it was either insanely lucky or you have no arms.
* Cow: It’s a cow. Kill it for free hamburgers. I’m actually not even sure if you can find the dang things in adventure mode.
* Deer: You might see these running away from you in the woods. They’re harmless but good wrestling practice if you feel like strangling a defenseless animal.
* Dog: I’ve never seen one of these in adventure mode, but its pretty obvious what they are huh?
* Donkey: Pulls wagons and things like that. You might see one but its not really worth attacking them.
* Elephants: In prior versions elephants were murderous berserkers, but thankfully they’ve been made a little more realistic. They’re just as big and strong as you’d expect, but won’t bother you unless you walk up and stab’em a few times. Reasonably dangerous, so don’t poke them unless you’re ready.
* Elk: Much like deer, though a little bigger and usually solitary
* Fox: Another small animal that you’ll most likely never see.
* Giant bat: Bigger than a minotaur and more dangerous at times. Often encountered in low visibility areas where they can take you by surprise. Its best to avoid caves until you’re confidant in your blocking and combat skills.
* Giant Cave Spiders: You’ll only rarely encounter these, because of their limited environment. You’ll know they’re near from the webs which hang around their homes. They are NOT to be meddled with. First and foremost, they do not feel pain and will never stop unless killed. Their high number of legs makes it likely that you’ll pointlessly hack away at the limbs while the mouth bites your head in half. Beyond these aspects the spider uses poison and sticky webs to ensnare you. Your best bet is to throw/ shoot it from a distance. If you can’t do that, use other piercing or goring weapons to damage its organs. Despite its ignorance toward pain, it still bleeds like any other animal, so a pierced heart is very effective.
* Giant cave swallow: Pretty much harmless things, just big birds. If they harass you, break their wings and strangle them to death for wrestling points.
* Giant Eagle: A major problem in fortress mode is little more than a pesky annoyance in adventure mode. If they are giving you trouble though, attempt to wrestle and break one of their wings. This should ground them and make them a much easier target.
* Grizzly Bear: A little bigger than the Black Bear, though basically the same. Good for both wrestle and shield points. If they’re really giving you a hard time try catching both hands and its throat. This should not only make it impossible for it to attack, but also give you wrestle points.
* Groundhog: Little rodent thingies. Zombie ground hogs are useful to strangle for wrestling experience. Besides that they’re only really good as golf balls for your putter (read Morningstar)
* Hoary Marmot: A tiny forest dwelling creature. As harmless as it is delicious.
* Horse: A beast of burden sometimes seen in human towns. They have an odd habit of going rogue and kicking children to death. Not to mention they’re some how smart enough to pull crossbow bolts out of their own legs. May cause random insanity if they attack a influential citizen.
* Naked mole dog: Think enormous naked mole rat. Unless you’re both unarmed and unskilled these things are basically very bleedy shrubbery to hack your way through.
* Mountain Goat: it’s a goat, that lives in the mountains. Likes to kill goblins and its not uncommon to find a few legends about goblin slaying goats.
* Mule: Like a horse, but more inbred. Chances are you’ll never see them.
* Musk Ox: Beasts of burden used by elves. Another thing you won’t see.
* Pike: The fish, not the weapon. They’re nothing close to the carp and should be little more than particularly squishy speed bumps to you.
* Raccoon: Forest rodents that you’ll never see. Make a nifty hat.
* Rhesus Macaque :A nettlesome trickster in fortress mode, they are almost never seen in adventure mode. Even if you see them they’re very skittish and a single blow will send them running. Give’em a good strangle if you can catch one.
* Unicorn: The random homicidal tendencies of the horse mixed with a dash of magic and a horn. They’re very aggressive for some reason, though not too hard to bring down. Watch out for that horn and stay away until you’re at least competent.
* Whale: Big aquatic beast. Not dangerous unless in skeletal mode.
* Wolf: And last but not least, the humble and numerous wolf. This is what is gonna be attacking you from now till forever. They’re dangerous the first few ambushes, but they quickly become nothing but barely noticed time wasters. Great for training up armor and shield, as they attack in packs and hence hit you many times, often with no effect. Early on, just be careful not to get caught in the middle of a pack and you’ll be fine. They have a random chance to rip your throat out. This has happened to even the most legendary of adventurers

=== Modifiers ===
* Zombie: Zombie animals are just like their normal counterparts, with a few major exceptions. Firstly, they are no longer affected by pain or bleeding and their organs no longer matter. They are also much slower. This combination of increased difficulty in killing and decreased speed about evens out their threat level. Not too dangerous, unless the creature they’re based on is already strong. (Note: Since they do not perish by strangling, breaking all of the limbs of a zombie and throttling it constantly is a great way to gain wrestling experience.)
* Skeletal: All of the advantages of Zombie with none of the bad effects. Skeletal creatures are all immune to pain and do not bleed, but they remain just as quick as their living counterparts. Large skeletal beasts, such as dragons or whales are truly a terror to face.

== Avoid the impossible ==
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

=== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ===
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders (Unless, of course, you enjoy [[Fun]])!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although I eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And I was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them I threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) I grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

=== Arrows ===
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

Another solid solution is to get behind something as quickly as possible and try sneaking. Even when caught in the open cover as flimsy as a single tree may be sufficient to begin sneaking. Sneaking around trees can also sometimes act as a compass for determining the direction of the shooter. By checking when and where sneaking is possible, the approach vector of any given observer or close cluster of observers can be extrapolated.

Finally, since archers are generally sentient, most (besides mayors) can be killed in their sleep.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

== Training yourself ==
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

=== Throwing ===
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with [[pebbles]], pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

''Alternate way'' : It could be difficult to repeat the {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} sequence without making mistake. So you can just alternate {{k|t}}-{{k|enter}} quickly : The first {{k|t}} will open the inventory, the second will chose the rock which is in "t" position, and {{k|enter}} will throw it. In the same fashion, when collecting rock, prefer a tile where the rock is on "b" position : If you quickly alternate {{k|g}} and {{k|a}}, sometime you will open the [a]nnouncement panel, which will slow you down. Another solution to this is to switch the ''pick up'' and ''announcements'' keys, so you can press {{k|a}} to pick up an item and {{k|a}} to pick up rock.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

=== Bow/Crossbow-skill ===
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable - train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

Metal bolts are quite heavy and expensive, so if you wish to train in this skill it would probably be a good idea to raid an old fortress of yours first and get all the wooden/bone bolts there.

=== Wrestling ===
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot, and breaking that legendary swordsmans sword hand at the beginning of the fight will make him laughably weak. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alive.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

Alternatively, wait until nightfall, and wrestle a sleeping enemy. Sleeping enemies are unconscious, and cannot detect you if you sneak. The autocombat will cause your adventurer to break limbs, grab and release bits of clothing, and other nonlethal attacks. Occasionally random chance will cause a chokehold; simply step back a tile and then resume. In this manner, you can train wrestling extremely quickly without the dangers of wandering in an undead zone.

Yet another alternative is presented by fish. No harmful wrestling moves can be performed on them so cornering a carp, tigerfish, or milkfish will raise wrestling quickly, while training swimming. Avoid hippopotamus infested waters.

A final option presents itself when exploring caves, there are many weak enemies to be found here, choose one (say a ratman) and walk up to it, grabbing it perform a takedown. Before it can stand up grab its arm and try to break it, as soon as it gets up perform another takedown, continue to break all the joints in both of your <s>toy's</s> <s>victim's</s> opponent's arms and then move on to legs, finally gouge out its eyes and begin strangling it to death. This gives you plenty of wrestling exp with very little risk as the enemy will only get in one or two strikes before being taken down after which it will prioritize standing back up.

=== Swimming ===
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

Another option is to find a body of water with a ramp into it. Walk down the ramp into the water, which will cause you to start "drowning". However, you can simply walk back out after 10 turns or so to stop drowning, and you will have gained some swimming skill. Repeat until you reach novice skill. If you don't have an abandoned fortress set up for this, slopes into water can be found at ocean beaches.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below. You can also crosstrain melee skills with swimming by picking a river and swimming down it, training Ambush when it's quiet and training melee when it's not. Some rivers have very high densities of fish, giving you lots of targets to hit. They will tend to gather up, bumping into and slowing each other down ahead of you for you to kill and an adventurer will be all but invincible against non-sturgeons after a few statgains. Just remember that Hippos have the right of way.

NOTE: Water does NOT currently cleanse fire, if you are burning, jumping into a pool of water will not save you

=== Ambushing ===
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

=== Armor and Shield Use ===

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor - a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

It's also best to train with creatures that attack with their fists, rather than their teeth. A zombie antman or ratman could pound on you all day and never take you past a yellow wound; a groundhog, however, will eventually get lucky and tear out your throat if you wait long enough.

== Exploration ==

=== Basic exploration tips ===
When traveling it’s a good idea to avoid evil areas until you’re reasonably powerful, as they tend to contain stronger enemies. Also avoid caves for this same reason, you never know when a dragon is lurking in the shadows. Remember that only human towns have shops, so don’t die of hunger wandering the dwarves mountain homes looking for that elusive Applebees. Water can be had from rivers and stagnant pools, though fast traveling (shift + t) makes thirst and hunger go away. If you are exploring caves, make sure to have some water and food with you, as some can be quite deep.

When you explore a mountain home you may come across a long, underground passage. Turn back. Unless you are wanting to level up your ambush skill and have brought plenty of food and water, these passages are probably not for you. They go on for a very long ways, occasionally across impassable mountain tiles, and there's a very good chance that you will die of hunger or thirst before you find the exit. You can not enter travel mode while traveling underground, so you do not have that as an escape possibility. On the other hand, they tend to be free of monsters (feel free to sleep on the ground) and if you have managed to kill several critters prior to your adventure you can always drink the blood that is soaking your equipment (but only if dehydrated).

=== Fortress exploration tips ===
If you’ve abandoned a fortress in the world and you’re now adventuring, you can find that same fortress on the map. Ask townsfolk about the surroundings and eventually they’ll mention the fortress and its direction. From there you need only to follow the directions till the fortress shows up on your map.
The perils of fortress exploration
If your fortress was abandoned or destroyed there’s more than likely a reason why. Be it magma overflows, flooding, goblin sieges or perhaps digging a little too greedily and too deep there are likely to be remnants of your downfall somewhere in the remains. Wild beasts and sentient invaders alike will more than likely be slugging it out in your once grand halls. Beyond this there is the danger of forgetting what lever does what and accidentally flooding the room with lava or collapsing the entrance.

==== The advantages of Fortress exploration ====
Depending on how advanced your fortress was it may contain extremely rare, powerful or valuables items. Raiding fortresses is the only way to get adamantine items and wafers, as well as the only way to get artifact weapons. Beyond this, you can read the engravings on the walls in order to fill your legends list.

==== Preparation ====
Whatever destroyed your fortress is what is going to be squatting in it now. If a goblin siege took you down, then prepare to fight some gobbies. If the horrors of the deep beat your little dwarven ass then prepare to fight those. If they drowned then find some waterwings etc. Make sure you’re fully stocked on arrows (if you use them) as well as water and food. Leaving anything you don’t need back in the tavern in town is a good idea too, as it lets you carry more loot.

==== Plumbing the Deep ====

While wandering the halls of your old fortress its best to secure each floor one by one, to avoid being ambushed. Explore one entire floor then move on to the next. This isn’t a requirement but it can help in finding the best loot as well as insuring against surprise arrow buttsex. If you start to get overburdened with all the loot climb to a secure floor and dump it in a pile. You can come back for it after you’ve finished exploring. Also note that, while traps no longer work, their components (giants blades, spiked balls etc) remain just as lethal in your hands. Also note that you can pick up and throw ballista bolts.

==== What to do with all your newly acquired wealth ====

Not much I’m afraid. While masterwork adamantine weapons are very useful and the raw chunks of adamantine are extremely valuable there’s nothing to really buy with them. The adamantine weapons you find are the strongest in the game and shops will never sell anything above iron so once you’ve got the weapons there’s pretty much nothing more you need. This will most likely be fixed in up coming versions (perhaps paying a blacksmith to make you weapons).

=== Summary ===
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/AIDS/bugs/sand/coins/arms/heads/swords/arrows/kitchen sinks at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2009-12-12T02:42:36Z

Frewfrux: /* Basic exploration tips */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that sealed the fate of your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

All the [[skills]] you see CAN be improved through use in game, so don’t worry about spreading them out completely evenly. In general, pick the [[skills]] you think you’re going to use. The [[skills]] are pretty self explanatory but its recommended that you put at least a few points into [[shield]] / [[armor]] and into a type of weapon. Be warned that [[weapon]] [[skills]] generally take a while to level up, so placing a good deal of points into a single weapon may be to your advantage. Also keep in mind that your skills determine what kind of equipment you have in the beginning, ie high sword skill means you’ll start with a sword. For information on the weapons and the other aspects of combat, please check the combat section. It is also a good idea to use a point or two for [[Swimming]], otherwise you might end up drowning in a puddle.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mead hall. Up on the second floor, you will see a flashing Weapon Master who happens to be the local leader - press {{key|k}} and talk to him/her, then choose 'services' for a possible [[quest]]. You can talk to the Citizens and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid if they feel like it (note, people with no combat skills are unlikely to follow you, and the leader and town guards never will.) If you choose dwarf, you start out in a region just outside the entrance to a given fortress. There is a [[mayor]] or the [[king]] himself inside the fortress.

Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Survival ===
Congratulations, you’ve created a character and are now about to embark on your fantastic adventure! For now, lets focus on the bare bones of staying alive shall we? First things first, you need food and water. If you’re a human you start with some, but barring that you may need to find a waterskin. These can be bought in human towns, specifically at the shop. DO NOT STEAL THESE OR ANYTHING ELSE. Do not pick anything up and walk outside the store before you trade for it. Why? Because you are currently weak and your neck is currently arrow bait. After getting the water skin, simply find a water source and hit (Shift+I) to interact with the object. Press the letter of the Water skin and you should be able to fill it from the water source. After it’s full press (e)to open the Eat menu and select the water. Food can be acquired from stores eaten in the same way. Beware, you won't be able to swim if you are hungry, thirsty or if you haven't slept for a day or two. If you get drowsy, just find a bed in a city or just find a good place to sleep. Avoid sleeping in an hostile place, if you don't want to have a bit too much fun.

Now that you know how to work your mouth we can move on to miscellaneous tips for survival. Firstly, you are very tasty and chances are (unless you’re an elf) the wildlife will soon be attempting to eat your face. A bear or cougar isn’t too much of a problem because there’s only one, the real problem will be wolf packs.
A single wolf is easy to dispatch, but a dozen or so can prove very problematic indeed. Beware large packs until you’ve gained a little experience. Secondly, do not piss off the towns folk, as they tend to have guards. Lastly, beware of taking quests or attempting things before you’re ready, as you will more than likely have tons of [[fun]].

=== Civilization? ===
Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and are marked with an "H" on the town auto-map. Medium buildings are stores, marked with a symbol that indicates what they sell - weapons, armor, food, clothing, trinkets. As of the current version, you start in the mead hall which is marked with an "M" on the automap. There are one or two apartment buildings buildings which are two stories, with six rooms a story; they are also marked with an "H." There are two really large buildings - the "T"emple and the a fort-like building that is marked with "K." Temples tend to have two or three levels, and a pool of water, while the "K" buildings are three or four floors high and are almost entirely empty (they will occationally contain random smatterings of clothing though, if you're looking for things to sell.)

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are one-tile-wide hallways, empty rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress Mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

==== Selling ====
You can also sell things to traders. Bones, corpses, body parts and rocks are not valuable, no matter how attached you are to a particularly aerodynamic kobold head. Small creatures discovered while {{k|L}}ooking Carefully may be worth a small amount of money. In order to sell or buy items, stand adjacent to the shopkeeper in his store, and {{k|k}}onverse with the shopkeeper. Select "Trade" and press {{k|enter}} to open the trade window.

Select each non-worthless item you wish to sell, and then set a price using the following format{{verify}}:
* {{k|a}} asking for 9000☼
* {{k|s}} +100☼
* {{k|d}} +10☼
* {{k|f}} +1☼
* {{k|g}} reset to 0☼
* {{k|h}} -1☼ (offering)
* {{k|j}} -10☼
* {{k|k}} -100☼
* {{k|l}} offer 9000☼

The use of these keys may seem non-intuitive, and this is further complicated by the limit on your available offers by your current financial health.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit. After the trade sessions, the balance of your coins will appear on a small table next to a chest.

[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' travel a considerable distance before allowing you to travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

====Managing coins====
Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most commonly giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world. Please harvest sustainably.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding a Quest ===
At this present point Quests can only be taken from people of leadership in an organization.

Human Weapon Masters: No matter what time of the day, human weapon masters will be in the mead hall, where you appear. However, if it is late they will immediately head for their homes so you may need to intercept them before they reach the door. The human capitals are not very different from the normal towns; humans have no central leadership so each weapon master is only a local leader of their own town, even at the capital the weapon master only rules the capital itself and not the other towns. Ignore the keeps; unless you're playing with a mod like LL no leaders hang out in the Keeps.

High Priests: Humans and Goblins will often suggest you ask the High Priest for quests but in all my times of doing this all this will do is allow you to join their religion. If you want to join the religion, the High Priest, as long as it is a reasonable time of day, should be wandering around the temple. Worth a visit at least as Temples are often the most interesting parts of a town/dark fortress because there are so many different kinds.

Dwarven Mayors/Kings/Queens: Hit and miss finding them, you'll generally find them on the outside of the fort but sometimes they move around; some have been known to run out of the fort and became a migrant unable to give out quests. Both Mayors and Kings/Queens can be found and both will assign Quests, which is nice. If you can't find them outside the fort you shouldn't really bother as mountainhomes take forever to search. As one might imagine the Kings/Queens can only be found at the Capital.

Elven Druids: Druids, who look like flashing peasants, are generally found in the middle of their Forest Retreats but it can be a bit hit and miss as well. Just keep looking; they don't usually seem to move and hopefully will be in the same place once the Quest is completed. Probably the 2nd easiest to find as you just look around the Forest. Despite people saying they dislike the Elves, in adventure mode they invariably give out the best Quests because Elves are not attacked by normal animals, so the only targets for your Quests will be Mega/Semi-Megabeasts or the leaders of enemy factions. Even though elves do have a capital there is nothing special to see there; still only one Druid who is only in charge of the Retreat, not the civ.

Goblin Weaponmasters/Demons: Probably the hardest to find; most Dark Fortresses are multitowered making it very difficult to find the leaders as there are several multifloored towers with twisty passages. Generally they will be in the tallest tower but this is not a definite fact. Sadly, they move around sometimes and are very difficult to find. The Demons are only in the Capital while weaponmasters exist in every Dark Fortress as local leaders. The goblins often have fun Quests as they generally seem to be at war with other civs.

Kobold Weaponmasters: Often hanging around the middle of a kobold cave camp; however, these guys cannot talk to you and as a result cannot give you a Quest (although you can use them to train your Sword skill)

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also the only way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
=== The Weapons ===
Weapons are basically divided into axe, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area. Swords are your jack of all trades weapon, doing reasonable slashing damage. They come in short, long and two handed varieties, with the two handed doing the most damage and the short doing the least. Axes are similar to swords and do slashing damage as well. They come in 3 types, battle axe, great axe and halberd. The battle axe does slightly less damage than the long sword while the halberd does the same damage as a two-handed sword. The Great axe is generally too large to use, but it does slightly more than the halberd in damage. The spear does piercing damage and is ideal for damaging internal organs and causing heavy bleeding and unconsciousness. It has no variations. The spear is much more likely to become stuck in its target, which can be a great benefit if used right and a curse if not. The Pike is, for all intents and purposes, the same as a spear. The mace and the hammer are generally the same thing, simply a big metal thing to club your enemies over the head. As expected, they do high damage but their bludgeoning attacks tend to be slower and less effective , if more hilarious, ways to dispatch your foes. The Maul, a hammer, is the highest damaging weapon in the game. The last weapon is the whip, which does gore damage. Its relatively weak but has its uses. The bow throws arrows, which act as tiny spears. Basically, a bow and crossbow is like having a very slow, long range spear.

=== Weapon Tactics ===
* Sword: Once again, your general fall back weapon. It’s good against almost everything, if not being that great against almost anything. Works well against both living and non-living enemies as it actively dismembers them.
* Ax: Pretty much the same as a sword, though some people believe it hacks off limbs more commonly. Good against organics, acceptable against anything else.
* Spear/Pike: Ok, here’s where we get a little bit more advanced. The spear is most effective against organic creatures because of two abilities, pierce damage and stick ins. Piercing damage does major harm to internal organs, causing pain, bleeding, vomiting, unconsciousness and death. Stick-ins are when the weapon becomes stuck in the target, allowing it to be twisted. Twisting increases bleeding and causes extreme pain. Because of these two factors spears and pikes are ideal for single combat against organic targets. The are less effective against multiple enemies (because of the stick-ins lowering kill-to-turn ratios) and are even less effective against non-organic enemies (ie bronze colossus).
* Mace/hammer: These weapons rely on their ability to turn your opponent into a tasty pulp through repeated wacking. They break bones and bruise flesh, meaning that aside from a critical hit they generally are less likely to mortal wounds quickly. They are great for crippling organics and non-organics alike, but when it comes to a swift, efficient death they are generally less than perfect. The exception to this is high strength and mace/hammer skill which allows for instant head crushing.
* Whip: The whip uses gore damage, which is similar to a cross between slash and pierce. It can cut off limbs but is more likely to slice up organs and cause extreme pain and bleeding. A few hits will generally render an opponent unconscious and perhaps even badly injured enough to eventually bleed to death. However, the whip is a slow outright killer, sometimes needing dozens of blows to actually finish its target.
* Bow (and arrows): Arrows are much like spears, because of their piercing damage and all the benefits it has. The benefits it has however are its range and its ability to target multiple enemies. They are most effective against organic targets. You, unfortunately, are organic, which makes archers one of your biggest problems.

=== Non-weapon tactics ===

Besides your weapons you have two other major forms of attack: Wrestling and throwing.

Wrestling: Wrestling can be performed by standing next to an enemy and pressing (Shift+a) and then (enter) to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy, however things such as wolves, bears and big cats do not allow you to perform the more advanced moves. After catching hold of a body part you can perform a lock, which allows you to further sprain, break or cripple an opponent. With a free hand you can perform even more advanced moves, such as gouging out eyes or stealing weapons. To gouge eyes grab a head with an open hand, to steal a weapon, grab the weapon and then check your inventory with (Shift+I). press the button corresponding to the weapon and then press a to gain possession of it.

One of the best tactics for fighting high level weapon masters is to either break his weapon hand or to steal his weapon, essentially making him no more dangerous than a normal peasant.

Throwing: Throwing is the skill of…well basically throwing shit. And vomit. And bugs and spears and rocks so on. Just about anything can be thrown, sometimes with devastating results. While it seems like weapons (and arrows) tend to be more reliable in their damage causing abilities when thrown, just about anything can potentially be lethal. Picking up a worm and hucking it right through a dragon’s skull is not only possible, but has been done on multiple occasions. A warrior with a high throw skill is often times more dangerous with an arrow than a trained archer is.

== Wounds ==
You or your enemy are going to get hurt in the course of your adventures and its pretty useful to know exactly what’s happening when you are. Here’s a quick guide to the various aspects of wounds.

=== Wound indicators ===
Wounds come in several colors and are indicated on the status screen (press z to see your own status screen while pressing (l) to look at your enemy’s). The status screen will list your body parts in different colors to indicate how damaged they are.
White-unhurt and feeling fine

Light gray-slightly damaged, think a nasty scrape or cut.

Brownish yellow-moderately damaged, such as a mild sprain or the like

Yellow-Broken. Applied to joints it means literally broken, while applied to upper and lower body it generally means organ damage.

Red-Badly damaged. If you got this then chances are you’re in bad shape. Severely broken bones or ruptured organs. If this status is affecting anything even remotely vital you’re more than likely on your way to the grave.

Gray-lopped off or cut out. This is when you completely lose a body part. Effects include massive pain and bleeding along with ruining your promising juggling career. For some body parts (Noticeably the eye) it will not recover - if not a very long time - and will cause constant pain and unconsciousness, if so then consider restarting in a previous save or completely because fast travelling will not heal it.

=== Wound effects ===
Hands: Damage to the fingers or wrists can cause you to drop your held items, but usually only with yellow level damage. Losing a hand entirely gives you a serious handicap, which will more than likely lead to [[fun]] in the future.

Feet: Causes slowed movement and falling. If removed can cause permanent slowed movement. Removing both can cause a continuous on ground effect.

Legs: Similar to feet, though often has increased bleeding and pain effects. Loss of one will usually result in death by bleed out. Even if you survive, you’re more than likely on your way to death. Severed legs do make a lovely club though.

Arms: Damage to almost any part of the arm can cause items to be dropped. Loss of an arm is perhaps even worse than the loss of a leg, due to the loss of weapon and wrestling capabilities. Loss of both arms is both tragic and hilarious.

Head: Contains the brain, ears, mouth, nose, eyes and throat. Ears, nose and mouth are officially useless and can be cut off in an effort to appear cool. The brain, eyes and throat are however less disposable. Damage to the eyes results in loss of vision, permanent if the eyes are removed, and terrible pain. It's usually not possible to bleed to death from eye loss, though. The throat is highly sensitive and damage causes both extreme bleeding and suffocation effects. The brain is the most important thing you’ve got, and damage to it is an almost instant death. Any wound it receives will more than likely cause instant unconsciousness and severe bleeding.

Upper body: Contains the heart, lungs, upper spine, liver and kidneys. Both the kidneys and liver have similar effects; namely, heavy bleeding and pain upon injury. The spine causes nervous system damage, which can have several, sometimes permanent effects. The lungs control breathing, so piercing them can cause suffocation. The heart is the main organ of the circulatory system and damage to it is almost always fatal through bleeding.

Lower body: Contains various organs like the stomach and spleen, all of which have the same effect of bleeding, pain and nausea. Nausea leads to vomiting, which makes the wounded creature unable to attack. There is also the lower spine, which has similar effects to the upper spine.

=== Attack types and their wounds ===
Pierce-dangerous to organic creatures, you included. Often times objects with the pierce effect will become lodged in their target. Removing the weapon from its lodged position causes both increased pain and bleeding but often times can alleviate certain symptoms the piercing has caused.

Bludgeon: Breaks bones and cripples joints. Generally less dangerous to the internal organs than other damage. The danger comes from its ability to incapacitate you and then turn your head to mush.

Slash: Dangerous for its ability to sever limbs and cause bleeding. Beware its habit of decapitation.

Gore: Shreds internal organs, causing all sorts of nasty side effects. Almost worthless on non-organic enemies but can cause severe problems for you living sorts.

=== Dealing with wounds ===
In adventure mode your wounds will heal if you travel (shift + t) and they’ll recover just about anything except a lopped off limb. If you can’t travel the best thing to do is try and run from battle if you’re badly wounded, since running will give you time to stop bleeding and suppress the pain. Beware dropping your weapon and make sure to pick it up before you make a run for it. If an arrow strikes you in the chest its best to leave it there while an arrow to the extremities can be removed.

== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ==

If you recruit some new members to your party, you'll not only gain extra damage output, you'll also have someone else to take the damage instead of you!

When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks. They are found in human towns inside the [[tavern]] with the [[Mayor]] (the building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill [[wrestling]] and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill. Drunks are much rarer in the current version of the game, so it's unlikely that you'll find one.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

Some otherwise eligible companions may rebuff your offer of becoming a living shield for one of the following reasons:

If the prospective meat shield considers himself more skilled than you are, he may rebuff you with, "Ha! Such enthusiasm from one such as yourself."
This can be remedied by training your skills until he judges you a bit more skillful than he is.

Another reason for someone to refuse to die protecting you is that you already have the maximum of 12 companions, and they will rebuff you by asking, "With a band so large, what share of the glory would I have?"
But look at it this way, at least your total party size is 13 when you count yourself! Now that's lucky!

Another possibility is to ask your old, retired adventurers for help. They'll never say no unless your party is too big. They should be pretty capable since you trained them.

You can ask the Prisoners of goblins to join you, and they will always say yes, regardless of the size of your party. Being nothing more than children, they have less fighting ability than drunks. However, if you have no moral reservations, they make excellent distractions for that particularly troublesome wolf pack that you come across on your travels. (Note: Elven prisoners will not attack any "normal" creatures or ones that do not attack them. That includes wolves.)

== The Perils of the Wild ==

{{d for dwarf}}

You’ll face many creatures on your travels, several mega and semi-mega bests included if you’re taking quests. Here's a quick look at the more dangerous beasts (sentient or not) that you’ll meet.

=== The Mega and Semi-mega beasts and the sentient races ===

* Bronze Colossus: Probably one of the hardest beasts to combat due to its massive strength, impressive natural armor and complete ignorance of pain, fear and bleeding. Bronze Colossi are basically walking, dwarf crushing statues that will never stop unless beheaded or outright obliterated. They have no organs and do not bleed, making them impossible to knock unconscious. Their immense strength makes them unlikely to give in to wrestling moves (though if you can manage to lock and break a limb it will snap off rather than just becoming useless.) Because of these resistances all you can really do is hack / shoot and hope that it dies before you do.
* Dragon: The main danger of these beasts is their massive fire breath, which can consume dozens of spaces. A high block skill is recommended before you fight them. A spear is a great weapon here, as it allows you to potentially knock them unconscious within a few turns. Arrows are also good, though staying at a distance can be dangerous because of the fire breath. Beware their bite, as it can cause major damage.
* Hydra: a joke really, as It seems to lack the regenerative powers of its mythological cousin. It has 7 heads, but damage to one is as serious as damaging the head of a one headed beast. More than likely you’ll have it unconscious in a few turns regardless of what you use.
* Titan: basically an organic bronze colossus. It is essentially a larger, stronger human, with all the weaknesses being the same. Piercing and goring damage can quickly weaken and incapacitate these beasts, but keep an eye out for its wrestling, which can cause some bad joint damage.
* Cyclops: A weaker, smaller titan with one eye. Eye+arrow=win
* Ettin: A two headed giant. Basically a stronger human, usually unarmed. Just hack it until it dies.
* Giant: Just a giant human like thing. Stab it in the neck or break its limbs for massive damage.
* Minotaur: Only thing really dangerous about this guy is his horns. Pretty good wrestler but nothing that should give a reasonably prepared adventurer any problems.
* Humans: Should you wander into battle against a human force its in your best interest to disable their archers first. The only real danger humans have is their numbers and their use of items. Disarming or crippling dangerous guards or weapon maters is highly recommended, since as soon as they are weaponless they are essentially as good as dead.
* Elves: They have wooden equipment, making them laughable most of the time. Once again, the only real threat is their archers and even then they are less dangerous than humans. Elves are generally known for being annoying dicks so its recommended that you slaughter the lot. If you are an elf its recommended that you have tons of fun.
* Dwarves: Their advantage is their steel weaponry and crossbows. Their disadvantage is that their mountain homes are generally so large that you’ll only rarely fight more than one or two. Disable their weapon masters and archers then throw their own axes at them. Juggle their heads in front of their children.
* Goblins: Like weaker dwarves, with less armor and less skill. They have a feeble sense of morals, meaning that they will only sometimes attack you after you hurt one of their friends. You can basically cleave right through them with ease.

=== Other Humanoids ===

These are creatures that in shape resemble something human, but have no society.

* Antman: A half man half ant hybrid which lives in chasms. They have higher natural armor than a man, but rarely use tools. As long as you’re armed they should pose no problem.
* Batman: Half man, half bat that lives in caves and chasms. They can fly and use weapons, though they rarely do. Attacks with punches and bites; the bites are the most potentially damaging because they cause gore damage. He is the night.
* Blizzard man: Frosty’s asshole brother. Blizzard men are creatures of pure ice that strangely still have organs. They can bite and punch, with biting doing the most damage. They will melt in normal temperatures so they are only found in freezing areas.
* Dark gnome: Mischievous mountain folk who enjoy hard liquor. They‘re basically dwarfs but smaller and no where near as dangerous. Its rare that you’ll even find them, but if you do they should pose no threat to you. They punch and bite but neither is noticeable.
* Fire Imp: Little gremlin like things that are either constantly on fire or made of fire. They’re found only in subterranean lava pits, meaning that you’ll have to go searching for them if you’re ever gonna see one. They only bite (does burn damage rather than gore), but their real danger comes from their ability to set you on fire. Ranged combat is recommended, though darting forward, attacking and then jumping away might be effective if you have no other choice. They can also breathe fire at you though, so its again recommended to stay back.
* Firemen: Like the fire imps, but better. They have the bronze colossus syndrome of having no organs, not bleeding, feeling pain or being able to have weapons stuck in them. They too can set you ablaze, but they’re much harder to kill before they do it. Bludgeoning can break and hence sever their limbs. Recommended that you fight from a distance. Luckily these things only live in underground lava, so you’ll never find them without going into very specific places.
* Frogman: Half-man half-frogs that live in underground water. Like battletoads. They can’t equip weapons and are very small, making them almost completely non-threatening.
* Iron man: They are basically smaller, less dangerous Bronze Colossi. When killed they leave a valuable iron statue like goldmen in Dragon Warrior. They appear only in chasms.
* Leechman: Half man, half leech, all sexy. They have no bones, but curiously do have arms (but no legs). They can suck blood, but considering they have no bones and every blow will almost always strike a vital organ its a lot more likely that blood will be coming out of it than you.
* Lizardman: Half man, half lizard; lives in underground water. Punches and bites along with the ability to use items. Similar to many of the other half breeds, but with one notable exception. He’s a lizard.
* Magma man: A man made of pure magma. Everything about this guy is the exact same as the fire man, with the exception that he can’t breathe fire. This makes him less dangerous at a distance. Stay back and throw stuff at him.
* Merpersons: Tiny little mermaids and mermen. Not dangerous at all, and relatively rare to boot. They can equip items but you’ll probably never see one anyway. Their bones are extremely valuable.[http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=25967.0]
* Mountain Gnome: The same as a Dark Gnome, but less evil. Same things apply here.
* Mud man: Like Ironman but made of mud. Can’t equip items and only has a weak punch as a form of attack, making it about as threatening as a mudpie. Lives in underground water.
* Ogre: The middle ground between giant and human. Their punches and bites do a surprisingly small amount of damage, though they can use weapons. As with any big, organic moron its recommended to try and damage their organs to quickly incapacitate and kill them. Piercing damage is very useful.
* Olmman: Half man, half blind cave salamander. Think Gollum but even more messed up and without eyes. Their bites are surprisingly strong. Found only in subterranean water and even then only rarely.
* Ratman: Seems to attack with 4 turtle men cronies, who are surprisingly good warriors. But seriously, they’re about as weak as actual rats. They only come from chasms so don’t worry about them too much.
* Slugman: Do I even have to say? it’s a dang slug man, do you think its dangerous? Its not. Just stab it in its deformed face.
* Snail man: Think slug man, but with a shell that doesn’t actually offer any protection.
* Snakemen: The only real threat these guys pose is their ability to inject poison by biting. If it does bite you its your best bet to try and quickly kill the snake man before his poison takes effect, since it can incapacitate you.
* Troglodyte: Your stereotypical caveman. Not dangerous unless they attack in swarms and even then they are easily beaten by even a novice adventurer. Use organic combating techniques to deal with them.
* Troll: There’s no real difference between this thing and an ogre. Kill them both the same way.
* Werewolf: Or wolfman. Attacks alone and only bites with a goring attack. Bite can be dangerous but the fact that there is only one of him makes it a lot easier to fight. Fun to wrestle for experience.

=== Wildlife ===

Here’s the rundown of all the mundane beasties that you’ll run into

* Beak dog: Basically what happens when parrot gets combined with Velociraptors. They’re a little smaller than a man but quick and use their beaks and claws effectively. Try not to get caught in the center of a group of them, backpedal and cut them down as they give chase.
* Black Bear: These will only ambush you one on one, and given their relative small size and forgettable strength they should pose little threat unless you’re completely unskilled and unarmed. Because there’s only one they can be useful for wrestling practice since you can focus all your attention on them.
* Bonobo: I’ve never seen one myself, though I’ve been told they’re ape like things. Considering their squishy organs it would be best to stab them in the groin.
* Camel: Its…a camel. You’ll probably never see one.
* Carp: BEHOLD, FOR ARMOK BREATHED LIFE INTO THE VERY ROCKS IN THE RIVERS AND COMMANDED THEM TO GO FORTH AND MUTILATE RANDOM PASSERS BY. TO HIS DWARVEN FOLLOWERS HE EXPLAINED IT THUS, “F*** YOU”-the tome of Armok, chapter 2. In all seriousness though, while they may be freaking fresh water sharks in the fortress mode, carp aren’t too dangerous in adventure mode. Their biggest advantage is their environment, being water which you can not breathe.
* Cat: IT’S A KITTY! Anyways, you’ll almost always have too many of these things in fortress and you’ll never see them in adventure. Even if you did, what would you do with them? You wouldn’t hurt them would you?
* Cougar: Like a kitty, but bigger. Cougars are good wrestling practice and good shield training as well, what with the fact that Cougars suck so hard. If you get killed by this thing it was either insanely lucky or you have no arms.
* Cow: It’s a cow. Kill it for free hamburgers. I’m actually not even sure if you can find the dang things in adventure mode.
* Deer: You might see these running away from you in the woods. They’re harmless but good wrestling practice if you feel like strangling a defenseless animal.
* Dog: I’ve never seen one of these in adventure mode, but its pretty obvious what they are huh?
* Donkey: Pulls wagons and things like that. You might see one but its not really worth attacking them.
* Elephants: In prior versions elephants were murderous berserkers, but thankfully they’ve been made a little more realistic. They’re just as big and strong as you’d expect, but won’t bother you unless you walk up and stab’em a few times. Reasonably dangerous, so don’t poke them unless you’re ready.
* Elk: Much like deer, though a little bigger and usually solitary
* Fox: Another small animal that you’ll most likely never see.
* Giant bat: Bigger than a minotaur and more dangerous at times. Often encountered in low visibility areas where they can take you by surprise. Its best to avoid caves until you’re confidant in your blocking and combat skills.
* Giant Cave Spiders: You’ll only rarely encounter these, because of their limited environment. You’ll know they’re near from the webs which hang around their homes. They are NOT to be meddled with. First and foremost, they do not feel pain and will never stop unless killed. Their high number of legs makes it likely that you’ll pointlessly hack away at the limbs while the mouth bites your head in half. Beyond these aspects the spider uses poison and sticky webs to ensnare you. Your best bet is to throw/ shoot it from a distance. If you can’t do that, use other piercing or goring weapons to damage its organs. Despite its ignorance toward pain, it still bleeds like any other animal, so a pierced heart is very effective.
* Giant cave swallow: Pretty much harmless things, just big birds. If they harass you, break their wings and strangle them to death for wrestling points.
* Giant Eagle: A major problem in fortress mode is little more than a pesky annoyance in adventure mode. If they are giving you trouble though, attempt to wrestle and break one of their wings. This should ground them and make them a much easier target.
* Grizzly Bear: A little bigger than the Black Bear, though basically the same. Good for both wrestle and shield points. If they’re really giving you a hard time try catching both hands and its throat. This should not only make it impossible for it to attack, but also give you wrestle points.
* Groundhog: Little rodent thingies. Zombie ground hogs are useful to strangle for wrestling experience. Besides that they’re only really good as golf balls for your putter (read Morningstar)
* Hoary Marmot: A tiny forest dwelling creature. As harmless as it is delicious.
* Horse: A beast of burden sometimes seen in human towns. They have an odd habit of going rogue and kicking children to death. Not to mention they’re some how smart enough to pull crossbow bolts out of their own legs. May cause random insanity if they attack a influential citizen.
* Naked mole dog: Think enormous naked mole rat. Unless you’re both unarmed and unskilled these things are basically very bleedy shrubbery to hack your way through.
* Mountain Goat: it’s a goat, that lives in the mountains. Likes to kill goblins and its not uncommon to find a few legends about goblin slaying goats.
* Mule: Like a horse, but more inbred. Chances are you’ll never see them.
* Musk Ox: Beasts of burden used by elves. Another thing you won’t see.
* Pike: The fish, not the weapon. They’re nothing close to the carp and should be little more than particularly squishy speed bumps to you.
* Raccoon: Forest rodents that you’ll never see. Make a nifty hat.
* Rhesus Macaque :A nettlesome trickster in fortress mode, they are almost never seen in adventure mode. Even if you see them they’re very skittish and a single blow will send them running. Give’em a good strangle if you can catch one.
* Unicorn: The random homicidal tendencies of the horse mixed with a dash of magic and a horn. They’re very aggressive for some reason, though not too hard to bring down. Watch out for that horn and stay away until you’re at least competent.
* Whale: Big aquatic beast. Not dangerous unless in skeletal mode.
* Wolf: And last but not least, the humble and numerous wolf. This is what is gonna be attacking you from now till forever. They’re dangerous the first few ambushes, but they quickly become nothing but barely noticed time wasters. Great for training up armor and shield, as they attack in packs and hence hit you many times, often with no effect. Early on, just be careful not to get caught in the middle of a pack and you’ll be fine. They have a random chance to rip your throat out. This has happened to even the most legendary of adventurers

=== Modifiers ===
* Zombie: Zombie animals are just like their normal counterparts, with a few major exceptions. Firstly, they are no longer affected by pain or bleeding and their organs no longer matter. They are also much slower. This combination of increased difficulty in killing and decreased speed about evens out their threat level. Not too dangerous, unless the creature they’re based on is already strong. (Note: Since they do not perish by strangling, breaking all of the limbs of a zombie and throttling it constantly is a great way to gain wrestling experience.)
* Skeletal: All of the advantages of Zombie with none of the bad effects. Skeletal creatures are all immune to pain and do not bleed, but they remain just as quick as their living counterparts. Large skeletal beasts, such as dragons or whales are truly a terror to face.

== Avoid the impossible ==
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

=== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ===
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders (Unless, of course, you enjoy [[Fun]])!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although I eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And I was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them I threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) I grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

=== Arrows ===
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

Another solid solution is to get behind something as quickly as possible and try sneaking. Even when caught in the open cover as flimsy as a single tree may be sufficient to begin sneaking. Sneaking around trees can also sometimes act as a compass for determining the direction of the shooter. By checking when and where sneaking is possible, the approach vector of any given observer or close cluster of observers can be extrapolated.

Finally, since archers are generally sentient, most (besides mayors) can be killed in their sleep.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

== Training yourself ==
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

=== Throwing ===
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with [[pebbles]], pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

''Alternate way'' : It could be difficult to repeat the {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} sequence without making mistake. So you can just alternate {{k|t}}-{{k|enter}} quickly : The first {{k|t}} will open the inventory, the second will chose the rock which is in "t" position, and {{k|enter}} will throw it. In the same fashion, when collecting rock, prefer a tile where the rock is on "b" position : If you quickly alternate {{k|g}} and {{k|a}}, sometime you will open the [a]nnouncement panel, which will slow you down. Another solution to this is to switch the ''pick up'' and ''announcements'' keys, so you can press {{k|a}} to pick up an item and {{k|a}} to pick up rock.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

=== Bow/Crossbow-skill ===
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable - train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

Metal bolts are quite heavy and expensive, so if you wish to train in this skill it would probably be a good idea to raid an old fortress of yours first and get all the wooden/bone bolts there.

=== Wrestling ===
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot, and breaking that legendary swordsmans sword hand at the beginning of the fight will make him laughably weak. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alive.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

Alternatively, wait until nightfall, and wrestle a sleeping enemy. Sleeping enemies are unconscious, and cannot detect you if you sneak. The autocombat will cause your adventurer to break limbs, grab and release bits of clothing, and other nonlethal attacks. Occasionally random chance will cause a chokehold; simply step back a tile and then resume. In this manner, you can train wrestling extremely quickly without the dangers of wandering in an undead zone.

Yet another alternative is presented by fish. No harmful wrestling moves can be performed on them so cornering a carp, tigerfish, or milkfish will raise wrestling quickly, while training swimming. Avoid hippopotamus infested waters.

A final option presents itself when exploring caves, there are many weak enemies to be found here, choose one (say a ratman) and walk up to it, grabbing it perform a takedown. Before it can stand up grab its arm and try to break it, as soon as it gets up perform another takedown, continue to break all the joints in both of your <s>toy's</s> <s>victim's</s> opponent's arms and then move on to legs, finally gouge out its eyes and begin strangling it to death. This gives you plenty of wrestling exp with very little risk as the enemy will only get in one or two strikes before being taken down after which it will prioritize standing back up.

=== Swimming ===
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

Another option is to find a body of water with a ramp into it. Walk down the ramp into the water, which will cause you to start "drowning". However, you can simply walk back out after 10 turns or so to stop drowning, and you will have gained some swimming skill. Repeat until you reach novice skill. If you don't have an abandoned fortress set up for this, slopes into water can be found at ocean beaches.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below. You can also crosstrain melee skills with swimming by picking a river and swimming down it, training Ambush when it's quiet and training melee when it's not. Some rivers have very high densities of fish, giving you lots of targets to hit. They will tend to gather up, bumping into and slowing each other down ahead of you for you to kill and an adventurer will be all but invincible against non-sturgeons after a few statgains. Just remember that Hippos have the right of way.

NOTE: Water does NOT currently cleanse fire, if you are burning, jumping into a pool of water will not save you

=== Ambushing ===
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

=== Armor and Shield Use ===

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor - a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

It's also best to train with creatures that attack with their fists, rather than their teeth. A zombie antman or ratman could pound on you all day and never take you past a yellow wound; a groundhog, however, will eventually get lucky and tear out your throat if you wait long enough.

== Exploration ==

=== Basic exploration tips ===
When traveling it’s a good idea to avoid evil areas until you’re reasonably powerful, as they tend to contain stronger enemies. Also avoid caves for this same reason, you never know when a dragon is lurking in the shadows. Remember that only human towns have shops, so don’t die of hunger wandering the dwarves mountain homes looking for that elusive Applebees. Water can be had from rivers and stagnant pools, though fast traveling (shift + t) makes thirst and hunger go away. If you are exploring caves, make sure to have some water and food with you, as some can be quite deep.

When you explore a mountain home you may come across a long, underground passage. Turn back. Unless you are wanting to level up your ambush skill and have brought plenty of food and water, these passages are probably not for you. They go on for a very long ways, occasionally across impassable mountain tiles, and there's a very good chance that you will die of hunger or thirst before you find the exit. You can not enter travel mode while travelling underground, so you do not have that as an escape possibility. On the other hand, they tend to be free of monsters (feel free to sleep on the ground) and if you have managed to kill several critters prior to your adventure you can always drink the blood that is soaking your equipment (but only if dehydrated).

=== Fortress exploration tips ===
If you’ve abandoned a fortress in the world and you’re now adventuring, you can find that same fortress on the map. Ask townsfolk about the surroundings and eventually they’ll mention the fortress and its direction. From there you need only to follow the directions till the fortress shows up on your map.
The perils of fortress exploration
If your fortress was abandoned or destroyed there’s more than likely a reason why. Be it magma overflows, flooding, goblin sieges or perhaps digging a little too greedily and too deep there are likely to be remnants of your downfall somewhere in the remains. Wild beasts and sentient invaders alike will more than likely be slugging it out in your once grand halls. Beyond this there is the danger of forgetting what lever does what and accidentally flooding the room with lava or collapsing the entrance.

==== The advantages of Fortress exploration ====
Depending on how advanced your fortress was it may contain extremely rare, powerful or valuables items. Raiding fortresses is the only way to get adamantine items and wafers, as well as the only way to get artifact weapons. Beyond this, you can read the engravings on the walls in order to fill your legends list.

==== Preparation ====
Whatever destroyed your fortress is what is going to be squatting in it now. If a goblin siege took you down, then prepare to fight some gobbies. If the horrors of the deep beat your little dwarven ass then prepare to fight those. If they drowned then find some waterwings etc. Make sure you’re fully stocked on arrows (if you use them) as well as water and food. Leaving anything you don’t need back in the tavern in town is a good idea too, as it lets you carry more loot.

==== Plumbing the Deep ====

While wandering the halls of your old fortress its best to secure each floor one by one, to avoid being ambushed. Explore one entire floor then move on to the next. This isn’t a requirement but it can help in finding the best loot as well as insuring against surprise arrow buttsex. If you start to get overburdened with all the loot climb to a secure floor and dump it in a pile. You can come back for it after you’ve finished exploring. Also note that, while traps no longer work, their components (giants blades, spiked balls etc) remain just as lethal in your hands. Also note that you can pick up and throw ballista bolts.

==== What to do with all your newly acquired wealth ====

Not much I’m afraid. While masterwork adamantine weapons are very useful and the raw chunks of adamantine are extremely valuable there’s nothing to really buy with them. The adamantine weapons you find are the strongest in the game and shops will never sell anything above iron so once you’ve got the weapons there’s pretty much nothing more you need. This will most likely be fixed in up coming versions (perhaps paying a blacksmith to make you weapons).

=== Summary ===
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/AIDS/bugs/sand/coins/arms/heads/swords/arrows/kitchen sinks at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d Talk:Glacier

2009-12-07T03:57:57Z

Frewfrux:

No animals at all, what about polar bears? I'm thinking about starting up an Inuit fortress soon, any tips for glacier would be appreciated.
::I've seen animals on a glacier, don't worry. But you'd be well advised to bring a couple dozen dogs anyway, they ARE rare, and usually bad-tempered.--[[User:Zombiejustice|Zombiejustice]] 14:05, 3 August 2008 (EDT)

Also there are plenty of stones and ores, glaciers are quite ore rich.

Do rivers in glacier zones ever melt? Just curious... [[User:Xaque|Xaque]] 22:25, 13 August 2008 (EDT)
:I think glaciers are, by definition freeing. So, nope. --[[User:Simmura McCrea|Simmura McCrea]] 08:42, 13 December 2008 (EST)

== melting ice/farming ==

Can someone discuss how to get an underground farm set up on a glacier?--[[User:Jpwrunyan|Jpwrunyan]] 07:07, 9 April 2009 (UTC)

== Mining a Glacier ==

I recently started a new fort on a glacier and started to dig down using up/down stairs for the central column for my fort. I designated all the stairs first, and then let my miners loose on them. The composition of the ground was several layers of ice overtop of layers of rock, the first of which was an aquifer layer. The dwarves mined the up/down stairways fine until the hit the rock. Let me see if I can explain this properly.

All the levels of ice, except the one right above the rock/aquifer, ended up with up/down stairs. The layer of ice that was right before the rock ended up with just down stairs, not up/down ones, but my dwarves were not stuck on that level. Nor could they continue their mining because they could no longer reach the level as the continuous stairway now had a break in it. Because dwarves digging down in such a manner mine the up/down stair from above, my best guess as to what happened was that the up part of the stairs melted (though there was no evidence to suggest this). I subsequently dug ramps all around the stairwell but these did not melt. They also did not provide access to the above level due to the finicky nature of ramps. However, in the process my miners did get stuck on the bottom level and were able to build up stairs from some nearby ice they had mined out and thereby escape.

It seems as though the melting of anything ice from being indoors and underground isn’t completely true. The stairs were all labeled as both inside and underground. However, as soon as I broke the surface of the last level of ice with the up/down stairs, the ice up/down stairs were replaced with rock down stairs. I would surmise that the melting of constructed objects only occurs at levels that are not ice levels. So, if you carved out your fort from ice you would be able to build ice constructions like walls inside, as long as it was on an ice level.

This really needs more testing. I was using version 40d16. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 17:05, 2 December 2009 (UTC)

:The above was done with ice ontop of a rock layer that was an aquifer. I've recently tried with a non-aquifer layer of rock and the same thing happened except I didn't end up with the down-stairs. I will continue to test soon and will update the main glacier page with the results. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 20:49, 4 December 2009 (UTC)

::Quietust: Amazing discovery about the soil! (Is it when you build and deconstruct *any* construction, or just ice ones?) This must be all the dirt in the glacier ice that escapes when an ice construction melts. Yeah, that’s it. It’s not a bug.

::Your change mentions that “up stairs” will disappear. Do you mean the up part of the up/down stairs, the entire up/down stairs, or a carved up stair itself? I have only experienced this with up/down stairs myself, but haven’t actually tried with plain up stairs. My theory is that anything carved from the lower level of the glacier that breaks the surface of the stone will instantly melt into thin air. There are only two possibilities here, up/down stairs and down stairs. (You can carve down stairs from a natural wall, right? You don’t have to dig it out first? For some reason I can’t recall.) This would explain why carving ramps works, but if you were testing with plain up stairs, then my theory is no good. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 00:24, 5 December 2009 (UTC)
:::The "soil" oddity is actually a known bug, and it happens with any process that alters the floor type (removing a construction, building a paved road, or ''designating'' a farm plot) "001058 □ [dwarf mode][jobs][constructions] ([http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=29295.0 Report]) when a wall placed on stone is deconstructed on the lowest glacier level, you can get soil instead of stone". --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 00:53, 5 December 2009 (UTC)

::::I did some more testing and discovered that my theory was correct after all. Up stairs work just fine, but both down and up/down disappear entirely. I also tested out smoothing ice walls verses non-economic (Quartzite, in this case) and economic (Obsidian as I didn't have access to any flux at the time. Here are the results:

::::Each smoothing and engraving occurred three times after my bookkeeper got the records up to date and all food and drink was forbidden, all tasks stopped. The stone detailer was of the lowest quality possible.

::::Starting fortress wealth: 10296

::::Wealth after three smoothings of Quartzite wall: 10300, 10304, and 10308
::::Wealth after three engravings of Quartzite wall: 10318, 10328, and 10338
::::Wealth after three smoothings of Obsidian wall: 10342, 10346, and 10350
::::Wealth after three engravings of Obsidian wall: 10360, 10370, and 10380
::::Wealth after three smoothings of Ice wall: 10388, 10396, and 10404
::::Wealth after three engravings of Ice wall: 10414, 10424, and 10434

::::Fortress wealth was checked separately after each smoothing or engraving. The result is that smoothing of any stone adds 4 to the value of the fortress (before adding quality mods) regardless of stone type, however the smoothing of Ice adds 8 to the value of a fortress. Engravings always add 10 (again, prior to quality mods) regardless of wall material. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 05:51, 5 December 2009 (UTC)

== Animals from traders ==

I just had my first caravan show up. Initially I thought they didn't bring any creatures. I bought the cages anyway and put them in the animal stockpile which was when I noticed that there was something in them. A closer examination revealed a lot of them contained animal corpses. Is this a normal behavior for glacier biomes? Animals in cages from the traders have difficulty surviving the elements? Or is this something unrelated? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 03:57, 7 December 2009 (UTC)

40d Talk:Item value

2009-12-05T19:09:26Z

Frewfrux: /* Incorrect Information on Engravings */

== raw mat. ==
I don't think raw materials have a value of 0 anymore. Raw stone for an example seems to have a base value of 3*. [[User:Noctis|Noctis]] 03:26, 11 November 2007 (EST)

:Some do some don't. Bones have a value of 0. Raw stone, gems, wood does have a base value. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 08:14, 11 November 2007 (EST)

== take out gems? ==
I don't know if we should list all of the gems, it clutters the page up a bit. Maybe we should just link to [[Gem]], it has all of the gem values. --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 10:16, 11 November 2007 (EST)

:I'm VERY late to reply, but I think it's best just to leave them there. It's good to see them integrated with the other multipliers. --[[User:RustyMcloon|Rusty Mcloon]] 06:01, 29 May 2008 (EDT)

::I've noticed that several gems have a ton of varieties that all have the same value (i.e. there's 'eight' agates, but all are at x2). We can clean it up a bit by simply saying "all agates", and similar statements for the others. There's also a few like zircon with most of the variants at the same value, so that could be cleaned up by putting "most zircons" or "most zircons (black, green, red, yellow, brown)" or some such for each of those. Doing those things would at least cut down the number of entries if nothing else. What do you guys think? [[User:LegacyCWAL|LegacyCWAL]] 15:56, 30 September 2008 (EDT)

:::Wait, what am I saying, it's a Wiki. I can go ahead and change it myself. [[User:LegacyCWAL|LegacyCWAL]] 14:26, 2 October 2008 (EDT)
::::I can agree with that modification. Shortening the list is always a good thing. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 15:32, 2 October 2008 (EDT)
::::lol--[[User:Mrdudeguy|Mrdudeguy]] 07:18, 11 May 2009 (UTC)

== value of clothes/shoes ==
That list of item values says that "all clothes" have a value of 10 and shoes have a value of 15. Should it be "all clothes except shoes" or is the value of shoes actually 10? [[User:Bouchart|Bouchart]] 23:14, 8 December 2007 (EST)
: fixed.--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 14:00, 26 February 2008 (EST)

==phantom spider silk cloth - values==
*<nowiki>*phantom spider silk cloth* 76</nowiki>
*<nowiki>+phantom spider silk cloth+ 62</nowiki>
*<nowiki>-phantom spider silk cloth- 48</nowiki>
*<nowiki>phantom spider silk cloth 34</nowiki>
Does anyone know where these values came from? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:46, 21 December 2007 (EST)
:Hmm. I think all cloth has a decoration on it. That would explain it. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 13:05, 21 December 2007 (EST)
::Same thing. No decoration. In s versions 33d/e/f/g It's just that. My guess - some error either in code or in our minds :) [[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:32, 9 January 2008 (EST)
:::Including an invisible decoration of the same material (but no quality mod) would explain these numbers. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 02:14, 10 January 2008 (EST)
:: explained below --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 14:00, 26 February 2008 (EST)

== value change by decorations ==
Shouldnt this page list how decorations change the value of an item as well? Also, if the value of bone and shell is 0 (base) or 1 (multiplier) does that mean that decorating with bone or shell doesnt change the items value? [[User:Robje|Robje]] 17:11, 21 January 2008 (EST)
:The base value of a decoration is 10. A bone decoration would increase the value of an object by 1 x 10 = 10. Does that make sense? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 01:12, 22 January 2008 (EST)
:: Yes, it does. So the lead goblet example from the article worth 40☼ would be worth 50☼ with some bone decorations, right? It just adds the value of the decorations to the items value, it doesnt multiply anything. Think that should be added to this page? or the [[decoration]] page? [[User:Robje|Robje]] 11:38, 22 January 2008 (EST)
:::It wouldn't hurt to have it on both, as it's quite relevant to both articles. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 20:44, 22 January 2008 (EST)

== plant 2, cloth 7(+20) clothes/shoes from cloth 10/15 (+40) ==

'''Plants'''<br>
either

pig tail 1 * plant 4 = 4 correct <br>
sun/prickle berry0.5 * plant4 = 2 correct

or

prickle berry1*plant 2= 2 correct <br>
pig tail2 * plant 2 =4 correct

the first option doesn't hold true, since:

pig tail 2 * thread6 = 12 correct

Also, the raws give the value of pigtail as 2, no value for sun/prickel berry, thus 1

'''Cloth'''

pig tail2/silk2 * cloth7 would be 14, but is 34

So I suspect ther's a general +20 on cloth, that would also explain the quality level-value increase (as above):

*<nowiki>*phantom spider silk cloth* 76 = 4*2*7+20</nowiki>
*<nowiki>+phantom spider silk cloth+ 62 = 3*2*7+20</nowiki>
*<nowiki>-phantom spider silk cloth- 48 = 2*2*7 +20</nowiki>
*<nowiki>phantom spider silk cloth 34 = 2*7+20</nowiki>

The base value for clothes is probably tweaked too..

(On a side note, shouldn't phantom spider silk be much more valuable?) --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 14:32, 24 February 2008 (EST)

: a first look into clothes/mittens/gloves/shoes/socks/gauntlets suggests a base 10 for clothes/mittens/gloves plus 40 if from cloth and a base 15 for shoes/socks/gauntlets (again +40 if from cloth).

Prices fit perfectly if compared with leather and bone ware. --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 15:11, 24 February 2008 (EST)
:I suspect giant cave spider silk will mess this up. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 16:46, 24 February 2008 (EST)
:: Go away ;P No, yes, i already noticed, doesn't work with giant..but for the rest it's fine. And giant silk is messed up altogether, other than that its mighty valuable, the numbers don't fit at all. Have any thread at hand for comparison? --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 17:03, 24 February 2008 (EST)
::: I think the +20 comes from 10 x 2. The 2 is from the cloth value. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 17:09, 24 February 2008 (EST)

:::Ha!Ha!Ha! Its so obvious! Took my record keeper just a second glance! The value for giant is multiplied by 10! dye and deco goes separate on top! --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 17:11, 24 February 2008 (EST)

==Bone value==
I recall reading somewhere, that dragon bone are far more valuable material than generic (i.e. turtle) bones. Can anyone verify? --[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 04:32, 7 April 2008 (EDT)
:For all plant and animal products, the value is multiplied by the thing's modvalue. A dragon has a modvalue of 50. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 09:51, 7 April 2008 (EDT)
:They are indeed more valuable, and the same goes for leather and (as far as I can tell) shells. It isn't reflected in the chart though [[User:LegacyCWAL|LegacyCWAL]] 16:02, 30 September 2008 (EDT)

==Potential improvements==
Although most items have a value which equals shape * material, some items have an invariable, hardcoded value (including drinks, dyes, cheeses, flours, and many more). A separate table of these items and their values would be nice. Also, a list of items which never have quality.

The value of Prepared meals needs some explanation. In short, the value of each ingredient is added to the value of the meal. An example:

≡Dwarven wheat flour roast [33]≡

This is a stack of 33 finely-prepared Dwarven wheat flour roast. The ingredients are exceptionally minced Plump helmet, well-minced deer meat, superiorly minced Quarry bush Leaves and minced Dwarven wheat flour.

Total value: 3102☼

10 (prepared meal) * 3 (fine) == 30

2 (plant) * 2 (plump helmet) * 5 (exceptional) == 20

2 (meat) * 1 (deer) * 2 (well-made) == 4

5 (quarry bush leaves) * 4 (superior) == 20

20 (dwarven wheat flour) * 1 (no label) == 20

Total: 94

94 (value) * 33 (quantity) == 3102

The meals are named after the last ingredient, and the quality modifier on the meals is the highest in the recipe.

Finally, the formula given for the value of items made of cloth is slightly off. Things made of cloth have what amounts to a decoration made of the cloth material and a second (invisible) decoration made of the thread material. This really only makes a difference when your weaver is skilled enough to produce cloth with a quality. Example:

+cave spider silk bag+

This is a finely-crafted cave spider silk bag. It is made from well-woven cave spider silk cloth. The thread is superiorly-colored with Dimple dye.

Total value: 200☼

10 (bag) * 2 (cave spider silk) * 3 (fine) == 60

10 (cloth) * 2 (cave spider silk) * 2 (well-made) == 40

10 (thread) * 2 (cave spider silk) * 1 (no label) == 20

10 (dyed) * 2 (Dimple dye) * 4 (superior) == 80

Total: 200

Since the item, cloth, and thread are always made of the same material, you can simplify a bit by factoring out, but I think this is what's going on. The only material that has a value other than 2 right now is giant cave spider silk, with a value of 20. Cloth has the invisible thread decoration, but (obviously) not the cloth decoration. I'm not certain whether or not thread ever has a quality, but I remember someone mentioning that it could on the forums. Further testing required; someone'll have to train up a legendary Thresher. --[[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 15:39, 27 June 2008 (EDT)

:Started a fortress{{version|0.27.176.38c}} with a proficient thresher, which is a high enough skill level to never produce no label quality items. Pig Tail thread produced by this dwarf still has a value of 12, so I conclude that thread never has quality. --[[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 10:35, 30 June 2008 (EDT)

::After playing with the raws, the situation for cloth is even more complicated than I thought. There are two types of cloth: plant cloth, with a base value of 1, which gets multiplied by the value of the plant (2 for both pig tail and rope reed, but it could have been different), and silk, with a base value of 2, which gets multiplied by the value of the animal (1 for cave spiders and phantom spiders, 10 for giant cave spiders). So a giant cave spider silk bag is actually 10 (bag) * 2 (silk) * 10 (GCS) * clothier quality + 10 (cloth) * 2 (silk) * 10 (GCS) * weaver quality + 10 (thread) * 2 (silk) * 10 (GCS).

::Also, sewn-image decorations get no bonus for the cloth or thread they're made of, just the fibre-type*fibre-source modifier. But they do get the dye bonus. Except on artifacts. And artifacts made of cloth don't use the same cloth/thread decoration system. Ugh. --[[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 12:18, 20 July 2008 (EDT)

:::This revelation doesn't affect what you said before. Whether the value of the cloth and thread comes from base value 1 and modvalue 2 or base value 2 and modvalue 1, the value x quality of the cloth and the value of the thread are both decorated onto the finished product.
:::What are some of the values/materials you've had for cloth artifacts? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 01:18, 21 July 2008 (EDT)

==Wood and Stone Values==

It seems that certain woods are more valuable than others; my woodcrafter made an exceptional larch crown and an exceptional cedar crown, neither have decorations, but the cedar crown was worth 95 while the larch was worth 85. Also, neither seems to fit with the values for wood anyway (10*1*5=50). Also, all logs and stones seem to be worth 3, not 1 or 2.--[[User:Stinhad Limarezum|Stinhad Limarezum]] 23:36, 22 October 2008 (EDT)

:The logs and stones being worth 3 perfectly fits what's on the page. Stones and Logs are worth 3 times whatever their material multiplier is, which is 1 for wood and common stone. Hence logs and common stones wind up worth 3. Flux stones, with their 2x multiplier, wind up being worth 6. And so on. As for your crowns, larch being worth less than cedar wouldn't give those kinds of numbers, the difference would be some multiple of 50, not the difference between 85 vs. 95. Are you absolutely sure that you're reading it right and that there's no decorations, and that there's ''nothing'' else different ''at all'' between them? --[[User:LegacyCWAL|LegacyCWAL]] 17:27, 23 October 2008 (EDT)

:Are you looking at the item price instead of its base value? Price is only important within the context of the [[dwarven economy]].--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 20:30, 23 October 2008 (EDT)

== Weapon Value? ==

There doesn't seem to be anything in the article on the value of weapons like [[crossbow]]s and [[battle axe]]s. [[User:Gairabad|Gairabad]] 22:00, 13 December 2008 (EST)

:Thanks for the heads-up, I (and everybody else, it seems =P) hadn't noticed that. After some checking, it looks like the base value of all weapons and trap components is 10. I have a couple more things I want to check just to be sure, but it looks like I'll be adding in a "10" on there pretty soon ;) [[User:LegacyCWAL|LegacyCWAL]] 21:28, 14 December 2008 (EST)

== Simplifying materials table ==

When I realized the animal modvalues weren't listed, I thought I should add them. After a very short time, I noticed the list of material values was getting rather long, to the point of being unreadable. So instead of putting the animal material values on this page, I put them on a separate page and linked to it. Having set this precedent, I thought the gem multipliers, ore multipliers, metal multipliers, economic stone multipliers, and plant multipliers could all be treated the same way. Doing this would make this page ''significantly'' shorter and more understandable.

Clearly, I should have asked for input before going ahead and making the changes. For this, I apologize. I would like to ask for your opinions now, since I still think taking advantage of the lists of material multipliers on other pages is a good idea. I also added some details on several types of special decorations, and several much more detailed examples of how to compute item values, which I also think had some merit.

My proposed changes: http://www.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php?title=Item_value&oldid=39044

Differences with current page: http://www.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php?title=Item_value&diff=39690&oldid=39044

--[[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 22:00, 1 February 2009 (EST)

:I propose that rather than removing the material multipliers from the material multiplier section of the article, we split them into (collapsible?) tables organized by type of material. Possibly: '''stone''' (incl. ores), '''gems''', '''metal''', (plant products? animal products?), and a catch-all '''other'''. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 10:43, 2 February 2009 (EST)

:: That seems like an excellent compromise to me. --[[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 12:45, 2 February 2009 (EST)

{| style="border-spacing: 0"
|- style="vertical-align: top"
! Multiplier
! Stone
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|1||Common [[Stone]], [[Bismuthinite]]
|-
|2||[[Calcite]], [[Cassiterite]], [[Chalk]], [[Copper nuggets]], [[Dolomite]], [[Garnierite]], [[Limestone]], [[Malachite]], [[Marble]], [[Sphalerite]]
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|3||[[Obsidian]], [[Tetrahedrite]]
|-
|5||[[Galena]]
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|8||[[Hematite]], [[Limonite]], [[Magnetite]]
|-
|10||[[Horn silver]], [[Silver nuggets]]
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|30||[[Gold nuggets]]
|-
|40||[[Native aluminum]], [[Platinum nuggets]]
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|250||[[Raw adamantine]]
|}

{| style="border-spacing: 0"
|- style="vertical-align: top"
! Multiplier
! Metal
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|2||[[Bismuth]], [[Copper]], [[Lead]], [[Nickel]], [[Tin]], [[Zinc]]
|-
|3||[[Lay pewter]], [[Nickel silver]]
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|4||[[Trifle pewter]]
|-
|5||[[Bronze]], [[Fine pewter]]
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|6||[[Billon]], [[Bismuth bronze]]
|-
|7||[[Brass]]
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|8||[[Sterling silver]]
|-
|10||[[Iron]], [[Pig iron]], [[Silver]]
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|11||[[Black bronze]]
|-
|20||[[Electrum]]
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|23||[[Rose gold]]
|-
|30||[[Gold]], [[Steel]]
|- style="background-color: #EEE"
|40||[[Aluminum]], [[Platinum]]
|-
|300||[[Adamantine]]
|}
[[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 02:14, 3 February 2009 (EST)

{| class="collapsible collapsed" style=width:80%
|- style=background-color:#ccf
! colspan=2|[[Ore]]s and [[Stone]]s
|- style=text-align:left
! style=padding-right:1em|Multiplier
! Stone
|-
|x1||[[Bismuthinite]], [[Bituminous coal]], [[Lignite]], [[Stone|Non-economic stone]]
|-
|x2||[[Cassiterite]], [[Copper nuggets]], [[Garnierite]], [[Malachite]], [[Sphalerite]], [[Calcite]], [[Chalk]], [[Dolomite]], [[Limestone]], [[Marble]]
|-
|x3||[[Tetrahedrite]], [[Obsidian]]
|-
|x5||[[Galena]]
|-
|x8||[[Hematite]], [[Limonite]], [[Magnetite]]
|-
|x10||[[Horn silver]], [[Silver nuggets]]
|-
|x30||[[Gold nuggets]]
|-
|x40||[[Native aluminum]], [[Platinum nuggets]]
|-
|x250||[[Raw adamantine]]
|}

{| class="collapsible collapsed" style=width:80%
|- style=background-color:#ccf
! colspan=2|[[Gem]]s
|- style=text-align:left
! style=padding-right:1em|Multiplier
! Gem
|-
|x2||[[Banded agate]], [[Dendritic agate]], [[Fire agate]], [[Fortification agate]], [[Lace agate]], [[Moss agate]], [[Plume agate]], [[Tube agate]], [[Bloodstone]], [[Carnelian]], [[Gray chalcedony]], [[White chalcedony]], [[Chrysocolla]], [[Chrysoprase]], [[Rock crystal]], [[Citrine]], [[Tiger iron]], [[Blue jade]], [[Lavender jade]], [[Pink jade]], [[White jade]], [[Brown jasper]], [[Yellow jasper]], [[Lapis lazuli]], [[Moonstone]], [[Morion]], [[Onyx]], [[Prase]], [[Pyrite]], [[Milk quartz]], [[Sard]], [[Sardonyx]], [[Schorl]], [[Sunstone]], [[Tigereye]], [[Turquoise]], [[Variscite]]
|-
|x3||[[Aventurine]], [[Picture jasper]], [[Rose quartz]]
|-
|x10||[[Amber opal]], [[Bone opal]], [[Cherry opal]], [[Gold opal]], [[Jasper opal]], [[Milk opal]], [[Moss opal]], [[Onyx opal]], [[Pineapple opal]], [[Pipe opal]], [[Prase opal]], [[Resin opal]], [[Shell opal]], [[Wax opal]], [[Wood opal]], [[Clear tourmaline]]
|-
|x15||[[Melanite]], [[Fire opal]], [[Jelly opal]], [[Pink tourmaline]], [[Red tourmaline]]
|-
|x20||[[Alexandrite]], [[Almandine]], [[Amethyst]], [[Aquamarine]], [[Golden beryl]], [[Honey yellow beryl]], [[Red beryl]], [[Chrysoberyl]], [[Cat's eye]], [[Clear garnet]], [[Pink garnet]], [[Goshenite]], [[Cinnamon grossular]], [[Red grossular]], [[Yellow grossular]], [[Heliodor]], [[Green jade]], [[Kunzite]], [[Morganite]], [[Bandfire opal]], [[Claro opal]], [[Crystal opal]], [[Harlequin opal]], [[Levin opal]], [[Pinfire opal]], [[Precious fire opal]], [[Red flash opal]], [[White opal]], [[Peridot]], [[Black pyrope]], [[Red pyrope]], [[Rhodolite]], [[Rubicelle]], [[Violet spessartine]], [[Yellow spessartine]], [[Purple spinel]], [[Red spinel]], [[Tanzanite]], [[Topazolite]], [[Topaz]], [[Green tourmaline]], [[Black zircon]], [[Brown zircon]], [[Green zircon]], [[Red zircon]], [[Yellow zircon]]
|-
|x25||[[Indigo tourmaline]], [[Clear zircon]]
|-
|x30||[[Demantoid]], [[Light yellow diamond]], [[Blue garnet]], [[Black opal]], [[Tsavorite]]
|-
|x40||[[Faint yellow diamond]], [[Emerald]], [[Ruby]], [[Sapphire]]
|-
|x60||[[Black diamond]], [[Blue diamond]], [[Clear diamond]], [[Green diamond]], [[Red diamond]], [[Yellow diamond]], [[Star ruby]], [[Star sapphire]]
|}

{| class="collapsible collapsed" style=width:80%
|- style=background-color:#ccf
! colspan=2|[[Metal]]s
|- style=text-align:left
! style=padding-right:1em|Multiplier
! Metal
|-
|x2||[[Bismuth]], [[Copper]], [[Lead]], [[Nickel]], [[Tin]], [[Zinc]]
|-
|x3||[[Lay pewter]], [[Nickel silver]]
|-
|x4||[[Trifle pewter]]
|-
|x5||[[Bronze]], [[Fine pewter]]
|-
|x6||[[Billon]], [[Bismuth bronze]]
|-
|x7||[[Brass]]
|-
|x8||[[Sterling silver]]
|-
|x10||[[Iron]], [[Pig iron]], [[Silver]]
|-
|x11||[[Black bronze]]
|-
|x20||[[Electrum]]
|-
|x23||[[Rose gold]]
|-
|x30||[[Gold]], [[Steel]]
|-
|x40||[[Aluminum]], [[Platinum]]
|-
|x300||[[Adamantine]]
|}

{| class="collapsible collapsed" style=width:80%
|- style=background-color:#ccf
! colspan=2|[[Animal]]s
|- style=text-align:left
! style=padding-right:1em|Multiplier
! Animal
|-
|x1||[[Antman]], [[Batman]], [[Bilou]], [[Black-crested gibbon]], [[Black-handed gibbon]], [[Bonobo]], [[Cat]], [[Cave Swallowman]], [[Chimpanzee]], [[Cyclops]], [[Dark gnome]], [[Deer]], [[Dog]], [[Donkey]], [[Dwarf]], [[Elf]], [[Ettin]], [[Fox]], [[Frogman]], [[Gazelle]], [[Giant]], [[Goblin]], [[Gorilla]], [[Gray gibbon]], [[Gremlin]], [[Groundhog]], [[Harpy]], [[Hoary marmot]], [[Horse]], [[Human]], [[Kobold]], [[Lizardman]], [[Mandrill]], [[Minotaur]], [[Mountain gnome]], [[Mountain goat]], [[Mule]], [[Olmman]], [[Orangutan]], [[Phantom spider]], [[Pileated gibbon]], [[Raccoon]], [[Ratman]], [[Rhesus macaque]], [[Siamang]], [[Silvery gibbon]], [[Snakeman]], [[Titan]], [[Troglodyte]], [[White-browed gibbon]], [[White-handed gibbon]], [[Wizard]]
|-
|x2||[[Beak dog]], [[Cow]], [[Elk]], [[Foul blendec]], [[Giant mole]], [[Giant rat]], [[Ice wolf]], [[Large rat]], [[Muskox]], [[Naked mole dog]], [[One-humped camel]], [[Satyr]], [[Two-humped camel]], [[Warthog]], [[Wolf]]
|-
|x3||All large oceanic creatures ([[Walrus]], [[Whale]], sharks, oceanic fish), [[Black bear]], [[Carp]], [[Cheetah]], [[Cougar]], [[Elephant]], [[Giant cheetah]], [[Giant jaguar]], [[Giant leopard]], [[Giant lion]], [[Giant tiger]], [[Grizzly bear]], [[Hippo]], [[Jaguar]], [[Leechman]], [[Leopard]], [[Lion]], [[Longnose gar]], [[Pike]], [[Polar bear]], [[Sea monster]], [[Sea serpent]], [[Slugman]], [[Snailman]], [[Strangler]], [[Tiger]], [[Tigerfish]], [[Tigerman]]
|-
|x4||[[Alligator]], [[Nightwing]], [[Saltwater crocodile]], [[Werewolf]]
|-
|x5||[[Cave crocodile]], [[Giant bat]], [[Giant cave swallow]], [[Giant eagle]], [[Giant olm]], [[Giant toad]], [[Purring maggot]]
|-
|x10||[[Blizzard man]], [[Fire imp]], [[Giant cave spider]], [[Giant desert scorpion]], [[Ogre]], [[Sasquatch]], [[Troll]], [[Unicorn]]
|-
|x20||[[Frog demon]], [[Tentacle demon]]
|-
|x50||[[Demon]], [[Dragon]], [[Hydra]], [[Merperson]]
|}

{| class="collapsible collapsed" style=width:80%
|- style=background-color:#ccf
! colspan=2|[[Plant]]s
|- style=text-align:left
! style=padding-right:1em|Multiplier
! Plant
|-
|x1||[[Hide root]], [[Muck root]], [[Prickle berry]], [[Rat weed]], [[Sliver barb]], [[Sun berry]], [[Whip vine]]
|-
|x2||[[Blade weed]], [[Bloated tuber]], [[Cave wheat]], [[Dimple cup]], [[Fisher berry]], [[Longland grass]], [[Pig tail]], [[Plump helmet]], [[Quarry bush]], [[Rope reed]], [[Sweet pod]], [[Wild strawberry]]
|-
|x5||[[Kobold bulb]], [[Valley herb]]
|}

{| class="collapsible collapsed" style=width:80%
|- style=background-color:#ccf
! colspan=2|Miscellaneous
|- style=text-align:left
! style=padding-right:1em|Multiplier
! Material
|-
|x1||[[Ash]], [[Thread|Plant thread]], [[Wood]]
|-
|x2||[[Charcoal]], [[Coke]], [[Green glass]], [[Thread|Silk thread]]
|-
|x3||[[Potash]]
|-
|x4||[[Pearlash]]
|-
|x5||[[Clear glass]], [[Soap]]
|-
|x10||[[Crystal glass]]
|}

[[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 13:32, 3 February 2009 (EST)

:I moved in the tables, but I think "stones and ores" is redundant since ores are a class of stones. Also "non-economic stones" doesn't really make a category split. It has not always been the case that only economic stones have value not equal to one, and it once again might not be in the future. These nice tables. The gems especially must have taken a lot of work. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 21:26, 3 February 2009 (EST)

===Subsection1===

::Thanks. I have no problem with putting the ores, economic stones, and common stone in the same table. I originally split them up only because the lists of material multipliers were on three different pages. I do have a couple of other concerns, though. I see you added leather and bone to the miscellaneous table. I'm not sure they belong there. Also, I think we need some clear examples showing how to compute the value of a few of the more complicated items, especially prepared meals, items made from dyed cloth, and decorations (including sewn dyed-cloth decorations). Maybe soap, too, just for laughs. Lastly, I went through the stockpile menu and found some things we're missing: lye, ballista arrow heads, and animal traps. Lye seems to be a no-material, no-quality item of value 5. (You can find it in the food stockpile menu, along with almost all of the other no-material no-quality items.) I know animal traps and ballista arrow heads both have quality and material, but I don't have a fortress advanced enough to produce any just now. I think animal traps have a base value of 10, but I'm not sure, and I really have no idea how valuable ballista arrow heads are. (Does anyone actually use ballista arrowheads?) Let me know what you think. [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 23:10, 3 February 2009 (EST)

:Where do you think leather and bone should go? The values in the animal table are a different breed of animal. I agree with you on the other counts; especially detailed examples. Do you know how to calc prepared meals and sewn dyed decorations? Soap calculations are imperative, on the off chance some utility can get soap included as an artifact ingredient :). I will keep an eye out for the values we are missing. They are ''probably'' both 10. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 00:05, 4 February 2009 (EST)

::I don't think leather and bone should be considered materials at all. I'm not even sure plant thread should be considered a material. It's easier to think of all animal products as being made out of an animal material, with silk and soap as special cases. We could insert the explanation from the top of [[Modvalue]] if you think it would help. Either that, or we'll have to list all animal products as materials. I know how to calculate the value of prepared meals. See [[Talk:Item_value#Potential_improvements]]. I'm a little unclear on dyed decorations, and dye in general. I need to mod the values of some dyes and plant values to see if the value of dye decorations is based on the value of the dye, or on the value of a decoration times the plant value. I'll get back to you with the results of my tests. [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 13:08, 4 February 2009 (EST)

:::I think it would be simpler to use the table to keep bone, leather, etc. on there, just with a note mentioning the effect of mod value. This is because you don't turn animals or plants directly into the end product, but have to go through intermediate steps to get there. For example, your leatherworker doesn't drag a cow to the leatherworking shop and turn it into a cow leather bag, what he does is go to the leather stockpile and take a piece of leather to use. There's also the fact that not all leather, cloth, or silk comes from animals you slaughter/butcher: it's hard to think of a carp leather buckler as a carp product when you bought the leather from a caravan. [[User:LegacyCWAL|LegacyCWAL]] 14:24, 4 February 2009 (EST)

::::Carp leather (15) = 5 (leather, from table 1.2) * 3 (carp, from animal materials table). The question is whether or not to have leather as a x1 material multiplier in the miscellaneous materials table as well as being a base item type in table 1.2. Apologies if you already understood this and I misunderstood what you wrote. With leather in both tables, it would be impossible to tell whether the base item has value 1 and the multiplier is x5, or whether the base item has value 5 and the multiplier is x1. For simplicity's sake, I argue that it should only appear in the base item type table.

:::::Ah, I see. I thought you meant to remove that stuff from the page altogether. I still think it should be left in though, since tanned hides are still an actual item, and not just an ingredient. Same goes for bones and whatnot. Plant thread, like silk, can be dyed, which is an arguement for keeping thread as its own item. Further still, if things like hides and thread are removed under the logic that they're just "animal products", then a ''lot'' of other things should be removed as well, such as milk, many extracts, and even booze (though plants having booze values different from their "normal" values would complicate things in the plants section).[[User:LegacyCWAL|LegacyCWAL]] 15:41, 4 February 2009 (EST)

::::::I think we're violently agreeing here. All these things are in the base item tables, and no-one is suggesting they be removed from there. [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 17:34, 4 February 2009 (EST)

==== Subsection1.1 ====
:Listing leather as a material is more transparent. With silk as a guide, we can say the multiplier of leather could just as easily have been 2 or 5 rather than 1. I agree that listing leather as both a base object and a material may elicit some confusion, but this is nothing that the behavior of stone (resp. metal) doesn't already cause. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 10:31, 5 February 2009 (EST)

::It's a slippery slope. There would have to be materials for all the other animal products too. Ignoring the stuff you can't make anything out of, like corpses and chunks, there are, at a minimum: fish (for raw fish, prepared fish, and prepared meals), fat (for fat, tallow, soap, and prepared meals), bone (for bones, decorations, bolts, armor, etc.), skulls (for skulls and skull totems), shell (for decorations, armor, crafts), leather (for lots of things), and silk (ditto) and meat (for meat and prepared meals). I would rather have only silk and soap on the list, but if you insist on putting more on, you should put them all on. I think having silk and soap as the only two exceptions to the rule that items have no more than one material multiplier is less confusing and more transparent than adding a bunch of entries to the table and making the calculation of item values more complicated than it has to be. [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 00:25, 11 February 2009 (EST)

:::I think your decision is (in general) the correct one. If we knew less about the underlying mechanics I would wholeheartedly support it. However, because of soap and silk, we do know that there is another multiplier (of 1) acting there. I think it is wrong to list misinformation just because it is convenient and gives consistent results. It's like the difference between teaching mathematics by explaining the underlying structure or just 'teaching' mathematics by providing a list of steps that need to be followed to reach the correct answer. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 02:16, 11 February 2009 (EST)

::::However, I think silk and soap might be exceptions in the code, too. Unlike all the other material multipliers listed, we cannot verify the existence of the ones you want to include, because 1. they have no effect on value, if they exist, and 2. we can't mod their values to give them an effect. I also think it's wrong to list misinformation. I just think it's you who's doing it. :-) [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 11:50, 11 February 2009 (EST)

:::Ah, I was under the impression our disagreement stemmed from something different.
:::Ok, I'm going to try to convince of my view of the structure. If I can do that (or if you can push yours), then that will settle it.
:::We know that before settings started moving into the raw files, all of the material multipliers were hard coded, and those that aren't in the raws (yet?) still are. We also know that things with a raw data entry but no specified value (like most stone) default to 1.
:::Let's assume that one of our two schema would be implemented if (when?) silk and soap values stop being hard coded and move into the raws. By your view (if I understand it correctly), silk and soap would be the only two animal products that can have entries. By my view, any might have a value entry, and any without one would default to 1. This is consistent with how stones behave. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 14:46, 11 February 2009 (EST)

::::No, I view animal products as already having a value in the raws: the animal modvalue. I believe silk and soap (if soap is, in fact, a block, and not a separate base item with value 25) are exceptions in that they have an '''extra''' multiplier. This is consistent with the way stone products behave: stones, and everything made from stones, get a material multiplier from a particular type of stone. Animals, and everything made from animals, get a material multiplier from a particular type of animal. [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 15:52, 12 February 2009 (EST)

:::If you could have it any way you wanted, how would you handle putting silk into the raws? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 19:35, 12 February 2009 (EST)

::::I think I would remove the hardcoded x2 multiplier for silk, and double the modvalue of cave spiders and phantom spiders (from 1 to 2). GCS silk would have half the value it has now, but the whole system would be simpler and more consistent. [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 12:52, 14 February 2009 (EST)

:::::Hmm. Ok, let's do it your way. I strongly suspect it will change in the near future, but I think this is the best fit right now. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 09:15, 15 February 2009 (EST)

::In other news, I've confirmed that animal traps have a base value of 10. No news yet on ballista arrowheads. I think animal traps and cages should be added to the base items with material and quality table, since they end up in their own stockpile, not with furniture as you might suppose. Also: this talk page is getting too long. I suggest removing the draft versions of the material tables. [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 00:34, 11 February 2009 (EST)

::Ballista arrowheads have a base value of 10. They're considered furniture, so I'm leaving the table alone. Note: assembling a non-wooden ballista arrow uses a log and an arrowhead, and gives you a ballista arrow made from metal. E.g., a +Steel ballista arrow+ is worth 1800, which is what you'd expect (20 * 30 * 3). [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 23:08, 16 February 2009 (EST)

===Subsection2===

::Testing{{version|0.28.181.40d}} reveals that dye value comes from the value of the dye, not the value of a decoration multiplied by the plant material. The following is a real example:
::+«+Pig tail shoe+»+
::This is a finely-crafted Pig tail shoe. It is made from well-crafted Pig tail cloth. The thread is midnight blue, finely colored with Dimple dye. On the item is a finely-designed image of squares in Pig tail by Urvad Zonilash. It is made from superior quality Pig tail cloth. The thread is midnight blue, finely colored with Dimple dye.
::{|
|-
!Base item
!Material
!Quality
!Subtotal
|-
|15 (shoe)||x2 (pig tail)||x3 (fine quality)||= 90
|-
|10 (cloth decoration)||x2 (pig tail)||x2 (well-crafted quality)||= 40
|-
|10 (thread decoration)||x2 (pig tail)||||= 20
|-
|20 (dimple dye)||||x3 (fine quality)||= 60
|-
|10 (image decoration)||x2 (pig tail)||x3 (fine quality)||= 60
|-
|20 (dimple dye)||||x3 (fine quality)||= 60
|}
::'''Total:''' 330
::Note that the cloth used to make the sewn image decoration does '''not''' contribute to the value, despite its material and quality being in the description. [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 20:51, 4 February 2009 (EST)

:Interesting. If the thread used to decorate an object isn't dyed, does the "cloth" object still disappear? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 10:31, 5 February 2009 (EST)

::Yes. So I guess you should use all that no-quality cloth the traders bring to decorate bags, and only use your own quality cloth to make bags. [[User:Hussell|Hussell]] 11:16, 5 February 2009 (EST)

== Incorrect Information on Engravings ==

This article mentions that engravings add the base value for decoration (10) with the standard material modifications. However, I have not found this to be true. I ran a test for my ice fort (see notes in glacier:talk) to see what the value of ice engravings were. First I smoothed three sections of regular rock (value 1), then engraved them, then smoothed 3 sections of Obsidian (value 3), and then engraved them. The results were identical for both types of stone (each smoothing added 4 to the value and each engraving added 10 - all were base quality). Interestingly enough, the ice smoothings were worth 8 and the ice engravings 10. Can anyone else verify this (don't worry about the ice part, unless you want to)? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 06:21, 5 December 2009 (UTC)
:I'm not sure about fortress wealth, but engravings in more valuable stone definitely contribute more to room value/quality. I have a lot of grand 1x3 bedrooms in flux layers without really trying, and I have satisfied many nobles' requirements with otherwise modest rooms in valuable (iron or better) ore veins. --[[User:LaVacaMorada|LaVacaMorada]] 07:20, 5 December 2009 (UTC)
::I had been assuming they would be the same thing (room value and fortress wealth), minus any dwarven preference bumping the 'percieved' room value up. Are you sure your rooms are grand and not great? (Grand being one step down from royal.) And by "not really trying" I am assuming you just have beds in these rooms in addition to the engravings? Grand rooms have a value of at least 2,500. A 1X3 Room, that was side by side with other 1x3 rooms, would have it's walls shared with the other bedrooms. So, if:
:::*only half (lets round up) of this rooms walls will count towards value,
:::*the material counts towards the value,
:::*and all the engravers were better then Lengendary +5 and did masterful work half the time,

::you would have:

:::*6 walls and 3 floors (9)
:::*5 masterful engravings worth (5 engravings * 10 base value * 12 masterful work * 2 flux stone) = 1,200
:::*4 exceptional engravings worth (4 engravings * 10 base value * 5 exceptional work * 2 flux stone) = 400

::for a total of 1,600 from engravings. You bed would have to be worth 900. Hmmmmm. I think I need to test this out more. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 17:07, 5 December 2009 (UTC)

:::Hmmmm, testing, right. How is one able to tell what the value of a room is, exactly? What I mean is, how do I tell what the *exact* value of a room is (as opposed to its general rating of meager, modest, etc) without checking the "created wealth" section of the stats menu? --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 18:00, 5 December 2009 (UTC)
::::Let the Economy start, then put the room up for rent - it'll show the room's exact value under (q) status. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 18:42, 5 December 2009 (UTC)
:::::I was afraid of that. Unfortunately I don't have a fort for which the economy has started yet with which to test. I guess I'll just have to keep this in mind to do when my glacier fort gets there. If it ever does (terrifying biome) --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 19:09, 5 December 2009 (UTC)

40d Talk:Item value

2009-12-05T18:00:38Z

Frewfrux: /* Incorrect Information on Engravings */

40d Talk:Item value

2009-12-05T18:00:25Z

Frewfrux: /* Incorrect Information on Engravings */

40d Talk:Item value

2009-12-05T17:07:17Z

Frewfrux: /* Incorrect Information on Engravings */