Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

User:Digger

2008-07-12T09:13:53Z

Digger:

Hi, I'm Digger, usually I go by a nick of Meat_Grinder, however in case of digging a fortress I had to assume this one. Usually I'm adding some minor stuff and just being nitpicky, feel free to remind me of that when you think I go overboard. These are my first wiki-contributions after all :)

== BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT 1.1 ==

I dedicate this script to '''ignir''', who, unable to use mouse in DF, left this awesome game long ago.

[UPDATE] Added some minor tweaks/comments/explanations, simplified some hotkeys, fixed 1(omg) typo. The script now starts suspended, you have to "Alt + s" to enable it. LCtrl + z/x will navigate you horizontally, and LCtrl + mouse wheel vertically in a no-cursor mode.

'''Note''':The script has been created for maximum comfort of a "left hand on a keyboard & right hand on a mouse" position. If you are left handed, you probably might want to switch any left hotkey combo to a right one, Find>Replace>LCtrl/LShift/LWin/LAlt with RCtrl/RShift/RWin/RAlt, also you might want to change F1/tilda/x/z/a keys to something else that's closer to the right side.

<pre>
;This is a script that enables basic mouse controls in DF. The precision of the scipt is ~1 tile for me.
;Feel free to modify it, however remember that DF cannot tell where your mouse is, and AutoHotKey cannot tell where the DF's cursor is, so it is your job to synchronize them :)
;Alright, I did everything to KILL that Numpad control setup >:) Laptop users could probably easily play with this one.
;The only problem with this control is that it takes 2 mouseclicks to navigate, so it will probably kill your mouse(instead of your keyboard, what DF inevitably does) in the long run.

;Recommendations: 12x12 tileset, Windowed mode, wide/large screen, 3-button wheeled mouse, brains.
;Once you get a hand of it, you will realize that you can navigate to the places you can't even see on the screen.

Suspend ;This one suspends the script in the beginning.
#InstallMouseHook ;This module of AutoHotKey tracks the mouse movement and clicks, it is not enabled by default, see AutoHotKey's readme for details
^`::Reload ;This one obviously reloads the script = Ctrl + tilda(under Esc)
!s::Suspend ;This one toggles hotkeys on and off = Alt + s

;these ones scroll -/+. Just scroll the wheel! Hold shift for a speed boost.
~WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadSub}
}
return

~WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadAdd}
}
return

~LShift & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDiv}
}
return

~LShift & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadMult}
}
return

;these ones scroll Up/Down. Hold Left Ctrl & scroll! Hold a instead of Ctrl for a speed boost.
~LCtrl & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadUp}
}
return

~LCtrl & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDown}
}
return

~z & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgUp}
}
return

~z & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgDn}
}
return

;Switching z-levels. Hold Left Alt & scroll the wheel! Alt for altitude ;)
~LAlt & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{<}
}
return

~LAlt & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{>}
}
return

;Makes an Enter of Left Shift/Left Ctrl & LMB click.
LShift & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

LCtrl & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

;These two make a "c" of a MMB click both with and without Left shift
LShift & MButton::
Send {c}
return

MButton::
Send {c}
return

;RMB click is made into a Space both with and without Left Shift by these two
LShift & RButton::
Send {Space}
return

RButton::
Send {Space}
return

;My supreme script that tracks mouse movements in between two LMB clicks and transforms them into cursor movements. You WILL have to adjust the 2 values down there if you are not using 12x12 tileset.
LButton::
Label1:
CoordMode, Mouse, Screen
;estimating coordinates
IfEqual xpos1, 0
{
IfEqual ypos1, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos1, ypos1
}
}else{
IfEqual xpos2, 0
{
IfEqual ypos2, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos2, ypos2
{
;estimating difference in coordinates
xpos2 -= %xpos1%
ypos2 -= %ypos1%
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}

{
;estimating number of tiles to move, change 12x12 to YOUR tile size in order to get it right, it might be different in fullscreen/windowed, making it harder for you to use mouse
xpos2 /= 12 ;Change 12 to your tileset width
ypos2 /= 12 ;Change 12 to your tileset height
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}
;moving the cursor
Loop % Abs(xpos2)
{
If xpos2 > 0
{
Send {Right}
;MsgBox WIN
}else If xpos2 < 0
{
Send {Left}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
Loop % Abs(ypos2)
{
if ypos2 > 0
{
Send {Down}
;MsgBox WIN
}else if ypos2 < 0
{
Send {Up}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
}
return

;Resetting mouse coordinates
LWin::
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
return

;Toggling left-right
LCtrl & z::
{
Send {NumpadLeft}
}
return

LCtrl & x::
{
Send {NumpadRight}
}
return

;Simple Ctrl + a to toggle 20 items in a trade window, perfect for people who buy all/sell all.
$^a::
Loop 20
{
Send {Enter}
Sleep 30
Send {Down}
}
return
</pre>

40d:Adventurer mode

2008-07-10T21:28:21Z

Digger: /* Wrestling */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that fated your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

If you start out with a high [[weapon]] [[skill]] (except [[bow]]s and [[crossbow]]s) and also an above novice [[armor]] and/or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] [[skill]], you'll start out with [[armor]] and/or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] as well.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mayor's house. You will see the Mayor (purple) and probably several [[drunks]]. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the drunks and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid. Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
Fighting is extremely detailed in adventure mode! This adds a lot of fun in the battle, since there are so many ways to injure your opponents/victims.

=== Ranged ===
If you have a [[weapon | bow]] or [[weapon | crossbow]], you can shoot [[arrow]]s or [[bolt]]s at enemies. You can also throw anything you can carry at enemies. Ranged attacks are highly efficient when you hit.
To fire your bow or crossbow, press {{key|f}}, and move the marker to the enemy you wish to fire upon, and press {{key|Enter}}. Same with throwing stuff, only press {{key|t}} and choose which item to throw, then choose the victim.
''Note: Throwing is slightly bugged, but in a good and fun way. You can throw captured flies, socks and even [[vomit]] if you want, with lethal effects. (Sand piercing lungs, flies piercing hearts etc..)''

=== Close combat ===
To fight a [[creature]] by hitting it, you just need to walk towards the [[creature]]. Alternatively, you can press {{key|A}} and choose your target. After you've pressed {{key|A}} and are given the list of targets to attack, you can use {{key|Enter}} to choose between a normal attack and [[wrestling]] before selecting which opponent you wish to target.
A normal attack will make the adventurer hit the target with whatever [[weapon]] he holds. If he is holding no [[weapon]], he will bash with his [[Armor# Shields and Bucklers|shield]]. If he has neither a weapon nor a [[Armor# Shields and Bucklers|shield]], he will either punch his target or grab a random appendage.
In [[wrestling]], you must spend a few rounds locking the target's limbs to be able to break and splinter them (good times). Alternately, you could try gouging, pinching, or strangling them instead.

=== Wounds ===
Your adventurer will get wounded by enemies or falling (jumping) off cliffs. The best (and only?) way to heal, is to press {{key|T}}, and travel at least 1 tile in any direction. Your adventurer will be fully healed then, unless your character has wounds to the neck or head. Read more about wounds [[Wound|HERE]].

== Tips for survival ==
Dying is easy in adventurer mode, especially if you've just started out. Following these simple tips will increase your chance to survive, and reach those nice stats and legendary [[skills]]! These tips are for the faint of heart only. If you like the challenges of the game, feel free to do the opposite of what these tips say.

=== Basic Needs ===
Your adventurer gets hungry, thirsty, and drowsy, make sure your [[waterskin]] is always filled(fresh [[water]] at the [[Temple|temples]]), you carry 1-2 stacks[5] of [[food]], and get some sleep sooner or later.

Fresh [[water]] can be found sometimes at [[Temple|temples]] and always in [[River|rivers]]. [[Water]] from [[Murky pool|pools]] is not considered fresh [[water]].

In order to obtain [[water]], you need a [[waterskin]]. Unless you are an [[elf]], you will start with a full one at the beginning of the game, but you can also buy additional ones in the [[Site|towns]].

Move right next to the [[water]] source and press {{k|I}} (capital 'i', that is) to interact in a complex manner with an item. You will be shown your [[inventory]]. Select your [[waterskin]] by pressing the letter shown to its left. If the [[inventory]] is so long that the [[waterskin]] is not shown, you may need to press {{k|/}} or {{k|*}} on the number pad to move through the pages. If you have done everything correctly, the game should offer you one or more options from which specific tile you wish to draw the [[water]]. Simply select one choice by pressing the letter to its left and the remaining free space in the [[waterskin]] will be filled with [[water]].

Note that you can not refill [[Waterskin|waterskins]] that are inside of [[Backpack|backpacks]]. You need to {{k|r}}emove it from the [[backpack]] first. Also note that you can't put [[Waterskin|waterskins]] you are holding directly into the [[backpack]] (it is not accepted as a container for that purpose). First, {{k|d}}rop the [[waterskin]] and then {{k|g}}et it again. It should be put inside the [[backpack]] automatically.

Solid food will eventually rot away. However, if you move on the travel map, you will not consume any food or water. Only if you stay on a [[Site map]] for a longer time will you first feel thirst and later hunger. A normal random [[encounter]] usually never last long enough to even generate thirst. Searching a [[quest]] [[cave]] can take longer (they are quite winding), but usually, you will not go beyond thirst if you only want to find the [[quest]] monster and kill it. Thus, carrying large stocks of food is not recommended, unless you plan something that will take a lot of time.

(''Warning:'' NEVER, EVER sleep in a hostile place, next thing you know you will be cloven asunder by your own sword, or some nasty critters will be feasting upon you)

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some members to your party, you will not only gain extra damage output. You will also have someone else to take the damage instead of YOU!
When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks! They are found in human towns inside the tavern with the Mayor (The building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill wrestling and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

=== Avoid the impossible ===
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

==== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ====
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although i eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And i was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them i threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) i grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

==== Arrows ====
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

=== Training yourself ===
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with pebbles, pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable- train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferrably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alike.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below.

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

==== Armor and Shield Use ====

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor- a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

=== Summary ===
*Recruit some living spear-catchers
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs/sand at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster
[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Lignite

2008-03-05T08:02:15Z

Digger: small addition

{{Stone|name=Lignite|tile=*|color=#888
|uses =
* 2 [[coke]] at [[smelter]]
|location =
* [[Sedimentary layer]]s
* Found as veins
|properties =
* Can [[ignite]]
* [[Economic stone]]
* [[Material value]] 1}}

One of the two mineral sources of [[Fuel|fuel]]. Produces 2 coke for each unit of coal processed at the [[Smelter|smelter]]. However, this processing consumes a unit of [[Fuel|fuel]]. This leaves a net gain of 1 [[Fuel|fuel]] (2 [[Fuel|fuel]] if created at the [[Magma smelter|Magma smelter]]).

[[Category:Stone]]
[[Category:Economic Stone]]
[[Category:Sedimentary Stone Layers]]

40d Talk:Shale

2008-03-05T07:58:34Z

Digger:

So how high are my chances of finding bituminous coal or lignite in shale? I have found most other stones (except the Gypsum ones) from the table, but no coal yet. I am getting into deeper levels now where i hit almost only marble and granite.. :( Any tips? --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 22:49, 4 March 2008 (EST)
:If you didn't see them on the Embark screen, chances are you don't have the stuff and will have to import it. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 23:32, 4 March 2008 (EST)
::digger, the embark screen only shows layers, and coal doesnt come in layers so wont show there. koltom, shale has the same odds as any other sedementary layer at finding it, which includes the chance to not find any at all. -[[User:Chariot|Chariot]] 02:13, 5 March 2008 (EST)
:::So if I have a shale layer, I ''MAY'' have bituminous coal or lignite? Does presence of an aquifier in shale affect(excluding the obvious aquifier effects of course) these chances? --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 02:58, 5 March 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Broker skills

2008-03-05T07:51:40Z

Digger:

:I combined these skills since all the entries are the same. [[User:Jikor|Jikor]] 08:02, 8 November 2007 (EST)

It is gained by:
* Proposing an unsuccessful trade at the depot.

:This seem to controdict the earlier statement that this is a way that the skills are '''not''' gained. Is this skill an exception or what? I think we should make this article clearer. --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 09:25, 8 November 2007 (EST)

::In my first fort I tried to buy out the dwarven caravan with not enough goods, after enough attempts (removing one item each time), the caravan took offence and left. My broker gained the comedian skill after that. So unsuccessful trades do gain skills (not sure if its a random skill or depends how you offended the caravan), anyway the assertion in this article appears to be wrong. [[User:Coelocanth|Coelocanth]]

:::I just copied the text from the previous articles on the subject I haven't really tested these yet. [[User:Jikor|Jikor]] 06:09, 9 November 2007 (EST)

::::I am sure that the 'appraiser' skill is trained before the actual trade. My broker went to sleep at the unlucky moment and I allowed anyone to trade with 6-wagon human caravan. The dwarf that came to trade wasn't even dabbling at appraising and when I pressed 'trade' at the depot - he saw all the items' prices. So I actually cancelled trade that time and looked at the dwarf again - he was now competent appraiser. I guess that some experience in appraising skill (maybe 1?) is gained when a dwarf determines the price of each single merchant item for the first time. Later I bought out that whole caravan and the dwarf became dabbling in a handful of other skills. I guess that each successfull and each rejected trade attempt gives some amount(10?, 20?, 50?) in their corresponding 2 partially overlapping sets of social skills. Some experiments can be conducted to determine the exact amounts of skill gains.--[[User:Another|Another]] 07:55, 9 November 2007 (EST)

:::::I can confirm this. Appraiser goes up just from opening the trading menu, before you've even started putting together an offer. As a result it goes up much faster than any of the other skills, especially once the big caravans start rolling in.

Judge of Intent seems to go up on just about every attempted trade, even failed attempts. It seems to go up slightly faster than most of the other skills, which seem to be applied somewhat randomly, based off your broker's personality and possibly other factors (personalities of the foreign merchants?) For instance, my broker has been gaining Persuader, Negotiator, and Intimidator, with ocassional smaller gains in Comedian. [[User:Rpb|Rpb]] 20:21, 10 November 2007 (EST)

Do any of the broker skills actually do anything past novice? I had thought appraiser (or maybe another one) gave a bonus to the value of your goods but I'm not seeing it anymore - probably I had been trading something they asked for without realizing it. Unless you order something heavy (like stone blocks or metal bars) caravans almost always seem to bring enough to enable novice appraiser so you can see the prices, and seeing as the mood thing doesn't really matter much there does not seem to be a lot of point in using a dedicated broker at all. --[[User:BurnedToast|BurnedToast]] 23:51, 11 November 2007 (EST)
:I don't know if appraiser or judge of intent do anything once past novice. Getting the other skills up a couple ranks does make it a lot easier to get full value on your trades (the traders are much less likely to reject deals or make counter-offers asking for more stuff), so if you're stingy about what you trade away you might as well have a dedicated broker. Even then there seems to be a definite point of diminishing returns, though, as my broker only has 2-4 ranks in four skills and he almost always gets the traders to accept on profit margins of 1-5% or less. Which is probably a good considering their slow rate of advancement, since he started with 5 ranks in negotiation skills and has taken 6 years of dedicated brokering to get the other ranks.[[User:Rpb|Rpb]] 23:59, 11 November 2007 (EST)
::I noticed that, with a low skill, the trader would often ask for more of what you are presenting him before he agrees to trade. Which is probably because I always try to give them the same kind of stone stuff, mainly stone crafts, and the trader look for profit ''and'' diversity. At a time, in a map in which I had no wood and was bent on trying to purchase bins and barrels only to have them in my inventory 'cause I wasn't able to start my metal industry yet, the merchant was also bent in asking for the bins of my trade goods also, along with a few other items I would have rather prefered keeping in stock but didn't mind that much. I had to raise his profit for him to be willing to oversee those demands. In my current fortress, the highest starting skill I gave to my leader was judge of intent. I'll see later on if it make a difference in the haggling process. I am guessing that, with a high enough skill level, my leader will be the one asking for more stuff instead of the inverse. Or maybe it's also related to another talk skill... --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 13:14, 12 November 2007 (EST)
:::Judge of Intent most probably determines a change in the mood of the trader, so far i was very persistent in not giving human traders the goods they asked for and their status "merchants seems to be willing to trade" changed to "merchant is impatient"(or something like that), I believe Judge of Intent is what detects these changes of mood. Basically it shows you where the safe bargaining zone is over. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 02:51, 5 March 2008 (EST)

Does it make sense for the "Liar' skill to redirect to the broker skills page? From what I can tell the liar skill isn't trained by trading, or any current noble function.
:I'm pretty sure that it is, but your broker's skill usage is determined by their personality. i.e. if you put someone who is dishonest towards others in charge of trading, then they'll use the Liar skill.[[User:Rpb|Rpb]] 11:38, 16 November 2007 (EST)

== Effect of skills ==

This article says how dwarves learn, but not what the skills *do*. Problem is, I was looking it up because I didn't know, so I can't fill in that info. [[User:Bhudson|Bhudson]] 21:18, 2 February 2008 (EST)

== Skill gain from idle chatter ==

It appears that dwarves also gain most of the broker skills (albeit slowly) from time spent in idle conversation with each other. Leave a few dwarfs sitting around the dining room with no job for a bit, and you'll see that they've gained Dabbling in most of these. While it's not enough to really be useful for trade, the extra few XP often are enough to give a new dwarf a stat gain. Has anyone tested this to see how the XP gain is accrued? Part of the problem is that without some dissection of the code as it's running, it's hard to tell how long a single "conversation" lasts. [[User:RedKing|RedKing]] 23:47, 4 March 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Shale

2008-03-05T04:32:59Z

Digger: replied

User:Digger

2008-03-05T04:29:00Z

Digger:

Hi, I'm Digger, usually I go by a nick of Meat_Grinder or Kaktyc, however in case of digging a fortress I had to assume this one. Usually I'm adding some minor stuff and just being nitpicky, feel free to remind me of that when you think I go overboard. These are my first wiki-contributions after all :)

== BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT 1.1 ==

I dedicate this script to '''ignir''', who, unable to use mouse in DF, left this awesome game long ago.

[UPDATE] Added some minor tweaks/comments/explanations, simplified some hotkeys, fixed 1(omg) typo. The script now starts suspended, you have to "Alt + s" to enable it. LCtrl + z/x will navigate you horizontally, and LCtrl + mouse wheel vertically in a no-cursor mode.

'''Note''':The script has been created for maximum comfort of a "left hand on a keyboard & right hand on a mouse" position. If you are left handed, you probably might want to switch any left hotkey combo to a right one, Find>Replace>LCtrl/LShift/LWin/LAlt with RCtrl/RShift/RWin/RAlt, also you might want to change F1/tilda/x/z/a keys to something else that's closer to the right side.

<pre>
;This is a script that enables basic mouse controls in DF. The precision of the scipt is ~1 tile for me.
;Feel free to modify it, however remember that DF cannot tell where your mouse is, and AutoHotKey cannot tell where the DF's cursor is, so it is your job to synchronize them :)
;Alright, I did everything to KILL that Numpad control setup >:) Laptop users could probably easily play with this one.
;The only problem with this control is that it takes 2 mouseclicks to navigate, so it will probably kill your mouse(instead of your keyboard, what DF inevitably does) in the long run.

;Recommendations: 12x12 tileset, Windowed mode, wide/large screen, 3-button wheeled mouse, brains.
;Once you get a hand of it, you will realize that you can navigate to the places you can't even see on the screen.

Suspend ;This one suspends the script in the beginning.
#InstallMouseHook ;This module of AutoHotKey tracks the mouse movement and clicks, it is not enabled by default, see AutoHotKey's readme for details
^`::Reload ;This one obviously reloads the script = Ctrl + tilda(under Esc)
!s::Suspend ;This one toggles hotkeys on and off = Alt + s

;these ones scroll -/+. Just scroll the wheel! Hold shift for a speed boost.
~WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadSub}
}
return

~WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadAdd}
}
return

~LShift & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDiv}
}
return

~LShift & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadMult}
}
return

;these ones scroll Up/Down. Hold Left Ctrl & scroll! Hold a instead of Ctrl for a speed boost.
~LCtrl & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadUp}
}
return

~LCtrl & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDown}
}
return

~z & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgUp}
}
return

~z & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgDn}
}
return

;Switching z-levels. Hold Left Alt & scroll the wheel! Alt for altitude ;)
~LAlt & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{<}
}
return

~LAlt & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{>}
}
return

;Makes an Enter of Left Shift/Left Ctrl & LMB click.
LShift & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

LCtrl & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

;These two make a "c" of a MMB click both with and without Left shift
LShift & MButton::
Send {c}
return

MButton::
Send {c}
return

;RMB click is made into a Space both with and without Left Shift by these two
LShift & RButton::
Send {Space}
return

RButton::
Send {Space}
return

;My supreme script that tracks mouse movements in between two LMB clicks and transforms them into cursor movements. You WILL have to adjust the 2 values down there if you are not using 12x12 tileset.
LButton::
Label1:
CoordMode, Mouse, Screen
;estimating coordinates
IfEqual xpos1, 0
{
IfEqual ypos1, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos1, ypos1
}
}else{
IfEqual xpos2, 0
{
IfEqual ypos2, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos2, ypos2
{
;estimating difference in coordinates
xpos2 -= %xpos1%
ypos2 -= %ypos1%
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}

{
;estimating number of tiles to move, change 12x12 to YOUR tile size in order to get it right, it might be different in fullscreen/windowed, making it harder for you to use mouse
xpos2 /= 12 ;Change 12 to your tileset width
ypos2 /= 12 ;Change 12 to your tileset height
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}
;moving the cursor
Loop % Abs(xpos2)
{
If xpos2 > 0
{
Send {Right}
;MsgBox WIN
}else If xpos2 < 0
{
Send {Left}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
Loop % Abs(ypos2)
{
if ypos2 > 0
{
Send {Down}
;MsgBox WIN
}else if ypos2 < 0
{
Send {Up}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
}
return

;Resetting mouse coordinates
LWin::
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
return

;Toggling left-right
LCtrl & z::
{
Send {NumpadLeft}
}
return

LCtrl & x::
{
Send {NumpadRight}
}
return

;Simple Ctrl + a to toggle 20 items in a trade window, perfect for people who buy all/sell all.
$^a::
Loop 20
{
Send {Enter}
Sleep 30
Send {Down}
}
return
</pre>

40d Talk:Macros and keymaps

2008-03-05T01:03:49Z

Digger: /* INCOMING MOUSE. */

Is 'Playing Dungeon Fortress' (first few words of the article) supposed to be a joke? --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 21:36, 25 December 2007 (EST)
:Probably meant to say "fortress mode"... Must be a typo which got overlooked. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 21:41, 25 December 2007 (EST)

== dump macro ==

I have written a dump macro that works a bit like the actual designation commands (with a few limitations). Is it okay just to add it to this page?

I have put it on my userpage now. someone with more authority can now place it where they wish

[[User:Dukederek|Dukederek]] 12:44, 21 January 2008 (EST)
:Feel free to put it here.[[User:Fedor|Fedor]] 15:30, 21 January 2008 (EST)

::After a few botched attempts, i think it's up in a satisfactory way :) [[User:Dukederek|Dukederek]] 15:46, 21 January 2008 (EST)

== INCOMING MOUSE. ==

Alright, I'm almost done with a mouse script in AutoHotKey. I'm going to upload it no later than 2AM March 2(That's Canadian Mountain Time), so get ready :P --[[User:Digger|Digger]]
:Mouse control is done. See my page for details and script. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 20:03, 4 March 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Macros and keymaps

2008-03-05T01:03:26Z

Digger: /* INCOMING MOUSE. */

Is 'Playing Dungeon Fortress' (first few words of the article) supposed to be a joke? --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 21:36, 25 December 2007 (EST)
:Probably meant to say "fortress mode"... Must be a typo which got overlooked. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 21:41, 25 December 2007 (EST)

== dump macro ==

I have written a dump macro that works a bit like the actual designation commands (with a few limitations). Is it okay just to add it to this page?

I have put it on my userpage now. someone with more authority can now place it where they wish

[[User:Dukederek|Dukederek]] 12:44, 21 January 2008 (EST)
:Feel free to put it here.[[User:Fedor|Fedor]] 15:30, 21 January 2008 (EST)

::After a few botched attempts, i think it's up in a satisfactory way :) [[User:Dukederek|Dukederek]] 15:46, 21 January 2008 (EST)

== INCOMING MOUSE. ==

Alright, I'm almost done with a mouse script in AutoHotKey. I'm going to upload it no later than 2AM March 2(That's Canadian Mountain Time), so get ready :P --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 20:03, 4 March 2008 (EST)
:Mouse control is done. See my page for details and script. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 20:03, 4 March 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Iron man

2008-03-05T00:05:09Z

Digger:

What happens to severed limbs of iron men?
[[User:Echo Hotel|Echo Hotel]] 12:36, 4 March 2008 (EST)

I'm pretty sure that they behave in the same way as the remains of vermin, just disintegrating without giving you anything. [[User:Bouchart|Bouchart]] 19:00, 4 March 2008 (EST)

== Not so formidable ==

had 2 woodcutters, complete rookies, chop 1 and a couple batmen to death in seconds --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 19:05, 4 March 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Iron man

2008-03-05T00:04:33Z

Digger: Not so formidable

User:Digger

2008-03-05T00:02:00Z

Digger: /* BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT 1.1 */

Hi, I'm Digger, usually I go by a nick of Meat_Grinder or Kaktyc, however in case of digging a fortress I had to assume this one. Usually I'm adding some minor stuff and just being nitpicky, feel free to remind me of that when you think I go overboard. These are my first wiki-contributions after all :)

== BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT 1.1 ==

I dedicate this script to '''ignir''', who, unable to use mouse in DF, left this awesome game long ago.

[[UPDATE]] Added some minor tweaks/comments/explanations, simplified some hotkeys, fixed 1(omg) typo. The script now starts suspended, you have to "Alt + s" to enable it. LCtrl + z/x will navigate you horizontally, and LCtrl + mouse wheel vertically in a no-cursor mode.

'''Note''':The script has been created for maximum comfort of a "left hand on a keyboard & right hand on a mouse" position. If you are left handed, you probably might want to switch any left hotkey combo to a right one, Find>Replace>LCtrl/LShift/LWin/LAlt with RCtrl/RShift/RWin/RAlt, also you might want to change F1/tilda/x/z/a keys to something else that's closer to the right side.

<pre>
;This is a script that enables basic mouse controls in DF. The precision of the scipt is ~1 tile for me.
;Feel free to modify it, however remember that DF cannot tell where your mouse is, and AutoHotKey cannot tell where the DF's cursor is, so it is your job to synchronize them :)
;Alright, I did everything to KILL that Numpad control setup >:) Laptop users could probably easily play with this one.
;The only problem with this control is that it takes 2 mouseclicks to navigate, so it will probably kill your mouse(instead of your keyboard, what DF inevitably does) in the long run.

;Recommendations: 12x12 tileset, Windowed mode, wide/large screen, 3-button wheeled mouse, brains.
;Once you get a hand of it, you will realize that you can navigate to the places you can't even see on the screen.

Suspend ;This one suspends the script in the beginning.
#InstallMouseHook ;This module of AutoHotKey tracks the mouse movement and clicks, it is not enabled by default, see AutoHotKey's readme for details
^`::Reload ;This one obviously reloads the script = Ctrl + tilda(under Esc)
!s::Suspend ;This one toggles hotkeys on and off = Alt + s

;these ones scroll -/+. Just scroll the wheel! Hold shift for a speed boost.
~WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadSub}
}
return

~WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadAdd}
}
return

~LShift & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDiv}
}
return

~LShift & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadMult}
}
return

;these ones scroll Up/Down. Hold Left Ctrl & scroll! Hold a instead of Ctrl for a speed boost.
~LCtrl & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadUp}
}
return

~LCtrl & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDown}
}
return

~z & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgUp}
}
return

~z & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgDn}
}
return

;Switching z-levels. Hold Left Alt & scroll the wheel! Alt for altitude ;)
~LAlt & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{<}
}
return

~LAlt & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{>}
}
return

;Makes an Enter of Left Shift/Left Ctrl & LMB click.
LShift & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

LCtrl & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

;These two make a "c" of a MMB click both with and without Left shift
LShift & MButton::
Send {c}
return

MButton::
Send {c}
return

;RMB click is made into a Space both with and without Left Shift by these two
LShift & RButton::
Send {Space}
return

RButton::
Send {Space}
return

;My supreme script that tracks mouse movements in between two LMB clicks and transforms them into cursor movements. You WILL have to adjust the 2 values down there if you are not using 12x12 tileset.
LButton::
Label1:
CoordMode, Mouse, Screen
;estimating coordinates
IfEqual xpos1, 0
{
IfEqual ypos1, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos1, ypos1
}
}else{
IfEqual xpos2, 0
{
IfEqual ypos2, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos2, ypos2
{
;estimating difference in coordinates
xpos2 -= %xpos1%
ypos2 -= %ypos1%
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}

{
;estimating number of tiles to move, change 12x12 to YOUR tile size in order to get it right, it might be different in fullscreen/windowed, making it harder for you to use mouse
xpos2 /= 12 ;Change 12 to your tileset width
ypos2 /= 12 ;Change 12 to your tileset height
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}
;moving the cursor
Loop % Abs(xpos2)
{
If xpos2 > 0
{
Send {Right}
;MsgBox WIN
}else If xpos2 < 0
{
Send {Left}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
Loop % Abs(ypos2)
{
if ypos2 > 0
{
Send {Down}
;MsgBox WIN
}else if ypos2 < 0
{
Send {Up}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
}
return

;Resetting mouse coordinates
LWin::
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
return

;Toggling left-right
LCtrl & z::
{
Send {NumpadLeft}
}
return

LCtrl & x::
{
Send {NumpadRight}
}
return

;Simple Ctrl + a to toggle 20 items in a trade window, perfect for people who buy all/sell all.
$^a::
Loop 20
{
Send {Enter}
Sleep 30
Send {Down}
}
return
</pre>

User:Digger

2008-03-04T23:59:47Z

Digger: /* BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT 1.1 */ Added a note for left-handed.

Hi, I'm Digger, usually I go by a nick of Meat_Grinder or Kaktyc, however in case of digging a fortress I had to assume this one. Usually I'm adding some minor stuff and just being nitpicky, feel free to remind me of that when you think I go overboard. These are my first wiki-contributions after all :)

== BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT 1.1 ==

I dedicate this script to '''ignir''', who, unable to use mouse in DF, left this awesome game long ago.

[[UPDATE]] Added some minor tweaks/comments/explanations, simplified some hotkeys, fixed 1(omg) typo. The script now starts suspended, you have to "Alt + s" to enable it.

'''Note''':The script has been created for maximum comfort of a "left hand on a keyboard & right hand on a mouse" position. If you are left handed, you probably might want to switch any left hotkey combo to a right one, Find>Replace>LCtrl/LShift/LWin/LAlt with RCtrl/RShift/RWin/RAlt, also you might want to change F1/tilda/x/z/a keys to something else that's closer to the right side.

<pre>
;This is a script that enables basic mouse controls in DF. The precision of the scipt is ~1 tile for me.
;Feel free to modify it, however remember that DF cannot tell where your mouse is, and AutoHotKey cannot tell where the DF's cursor is, so it is your job to synchronize them :)
;Alright, I did everything to KILL that Numpad control setup >:) Laptop users could probably easily play with this one.
;The only problem with this control is that it takes 2 mouseclicks to navigate, so it will probably kill your mouse(instead of your keyboard, what DF inevitably does) in the long run.

;Recommendations: 12x12 tileset, Windowed mode, wide/large screen, 3-button wheeled mouse, brains.
;Once you get a hand of it, you will realize that you can navigate to the places you can't even see on the screen.

Suspend ;This one suspends the script in the beginning.
#InstallMouseHook ;This module of AutoHotKey tracks the mouse movement and clicks, it is not enabled by default, see AutoHotKey's readme for details
^`::Reload ;This one obviously reloads the script = Ctrl + tilda(under Esc)
!s::Suspend ;This one toggles hotkeys on and off = Alt + s

;these ones scroll -/+. Just scroll the wheel! Hold shift for a speed boost.
~WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadSub}
}
return

~WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadAdd}
}
return

~LShift & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDiv}
}
return

~LShift & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadMult}
}
return

;these ones scroll Up/Down. Hold Left Ctrl & scroll! Hold a instead of Ctrl for a speed boost.
~LCtrl & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadUp}
}
return

~LCtrl & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDown}
}
return

~z & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgUp}
}
return

~z & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgDn}
}
return

;Switching z-levels. Hold Left Alt & scroll the wheel! Alt for altitude ;)
~LAlt & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{<}
}
return

~LAlt & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{>}
}
return

;Makes an Enter of Left Shift/Left Ctrl & LMB click.
LShift & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

LCtrl & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

;These two make a "c" of a MMB click both with and without Left shift
LShift & MButton::
Send {c}
return

MButton::
Send {c}
return

;RMB click is made into a Space both with and without Left Shift by these two
LShift & RButton::
Send {Space}
return

RButton::
Send {Space}
return

;My supreme script that tracks mouse movements in between two LMB clicks and transforms them into cursor movements. You WILL have to adjust the 2 values down there if you are not using 12x12 tileset.
LButton::
Label1:
CoordMode, Mouse, Screen
;estimating coordinates
IfEqual xpos1, 0
{
IfEqual ypos1, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos1, ypos1
}
}else{
IfEqual xpos2, 0
{
IfEqual ypos2, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos2, ypos2
{
;estimating difference in coordinates
xpos2 -= %xpos1%
ypos2 -= %ypos1%
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}

{
;estimating number of tiles to move, change 12x12 to YOUR tile size in order to get it right, it might be different in fullscreen/windowed, making it harder for you to use mouse
xpos2 /= 12 ;Change 12 to your tileset width
ypos2 /= 12 ;Change 12 to your tileset height
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}
;moving the cursor
Loop % Abs(xpos2)
{
If xpos2 > 0
{
Send {Right}
;MsgBox WIN
}else If xpos2 < 0
{
Send {Left}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
Loop % Abs(ypos2)
{
if ypos2 > 0
{
Send {Down}
;MsgBox WIN
}else if ypos2 < 0
{
Send {Up}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
}
return

;Resetting mouse coordinates
LWin::
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
return

;Toggling left-right
LCtrl & z::
{
Send {NumpadLeft}
}
return

LCtrl & x::
{
Send {NumpadRight}
}
return

;Simple Ctrl + a to toggle 20 items in a trade window, perfect for people who buy all/sell all.
$^a::
Loop 20
{
Send {Enter}
Sleep 30
Send {Down}
}
return
</pre>

User:Digger

2008-03-04T23:27:22Z

Digger: /* BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT */ 1.1 Update

Hi, I'm Digger, usually I go by a nick of Meat_Grinder or Kaktyc, however in case of digging a fortress I had to assume this one. Usually I'm adding some minor stuff and just being nitpicky, feel free to remind me of that when you think I go overboard. These are my first wiki-contributions after all :)

== BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT 1.1 ==

I dedicate this script to '''ignir''', who, unable to use mouse in DF, left this awesome game long ago.

[UPDATE] Added some minor tweaks/comments/explanations, simplified some hotkeys, fixed 1(omg) typo. The script now starts suspended, you have to "Alt + s" to enable it.

<pre>
;This is a script that enables basic mouse controls in DF. The precision of the scipt is ~1 tile for me.
;Feel free to modify it, however remember that DF cannot tell where your mouse is, and AutoHotKey cannot tell where the DF's cursor is, so it is your job to synchronize them :)
;Alright, I did everything to KILL that Numpad control setup >:) Laptop users could probably easily play with this one.
;The only problem with this control is that it takes 2 mouseclicks to navigate, so it will probably kill your mouse(instead of your keyboard, what DF inevitably does) in the long run.

;Recommendations: 12x12 tileset, Windowed mode, wide/large screen, 3-button wheeled mouse, brains.
;Once you get a hand of it, you will realize that you can navigate to the places you can't even see on the screen.

Suspend ;This one suspends the script in the beginning.
#InstallMouseHook ;This module of AutoHotKey tracks the mouse movement and clicks, it is not enabled by default, see AutoHotKey's readme for details
^`::Reload ;This one obviously reloads the script = Ctrl + tilda(under Esc)
!s::Suspend ;This one toggles hotkeys on and off = Alt + s

;these ones scroll -/+. Just scroll the wheel! Hold shift for a speed boost.
~WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadSub}
}
return

~WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadAdd}
}
return

~LShift & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDiv}
}
return

~LShift & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadMult}
}
return

;these ones scroll Up/Down. Hold Left Ctrl & scroll! Hold a instead of Ctrl for a speed boost.
~LCtrl & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadUp}
}
return

~LCtrl & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDown}
}
return

~z & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgUp}
}
return

~z & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgDn}
}
return

;Switching z-levels. Hold Left Alt & scroll the wheel! Alt for altitude ;)
~LAlt & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{<}
}
return

~LAlt & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{>}
}
return

;Makes an Enter of Left Shift/Left Ctrl & LMB click.
LShift & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

LCtrl & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

;These two make a "c" of a MMB click both with and without Left shift
LShift & MButton::
Send {c}
return

MButton::
Send {c}
return

;RMB click is made into a Space both with and without Left Shift by these two
LShift & RButton::
Send {Space}
return

RButton::
Send {Space}
return

;My supreme script that tracks mouse movements in between two LMB clicks and transforms them into cursor movements. You WILL have to adjust the 2 values down there if you are not using 12x12 tileset.
LButton::
Label1:
CoordMode, Mouse, Screen
;estimating coordinates
IfEqual xpos1, 0
{
IfEqual ypos1, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos1, ypos1
}
}else{
IfEqual xpos2, 0
{
IfEqual ypos2, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos2, ypos2
{
;estimating difference in coordinates
xpos2 -= %xpos1%
ypos2 -= %ypos1%
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}

{
;estimating number of tiles to move, change 12x12 to YOUR tile size in order to get it right, it might be different in fullscreen/windowed, making it harder for you to use mouse
xpos2 /= 12 ;Change 12 to your tileset width
ypos2 /= 12 ;Change 12 to your tileset height
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}
;moving the cursor
Loop % Abs(xpos2)
{
If xpos2 > 0
{
Send {Right}
;MsgBox WIN
}else If xpos2 < 0
{
Send {Left}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
Loop % Abs(ypos2)
{
if ypos2 > 0
{
Send {Down}
;MsgBox WIN
}else if ypos2 < 0
{
Send {Up}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
}
return

;Resetting mouse coordinates
LWin::
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
return

;Toggling left-right
LCtrl & z::
{
Send {NumpadLeft}
}
return

LCtrl & x::
{
Send {NumpadRight}
}
return

;Simple Ctrl + a to toggle 20 items in a trade window, perfect for people who buy all/sell all.
$^a::
Loop 20
{
Send {Enter}
Sleep 30
Send {Down}
}
return
</pre>

User talk:Digger

2008-03-03T22:29:59Z

Digger: /* Mouse Script */

== Mouse Script ==

That's pretty amazing. I also know a few people who have been disappointed that DF doesnt like mice. Good job! [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 11:04, 2 March 2008 (EST)
:Heh, well it's kinda weird the first time you use mouse in DF. Feels... alien. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 17:29, 3 March 2008 (EST)

40d:Captured creatures

2008-03-03T22:20:50Z

Digger:

You can capture creatures in a variety of ways, including [[animal trap]]s for [[vermin]], [[Traps#Cage_Trap|cage traps]] for wild [[animal]]s and hostiles (like goblins), forcibly caging tame animals (see below), and you can also buy caged animals from traders. Caged animals do not require food or nourishment{{v|0.27.176.38c}}. The only case when a caged creature is fed is during its taming.

Below is a collection of some things you can do with creatures in [[cage]]s or other holding devices.

===Training and taming===
A dwarf with the [[Animal Training]] labor enabled will train dogs in a [[kennel]] to become [[hunting dog]]s and [[war dog]]s.
Vermin and other animals can also be tamed. A tame animal has the tag (Tame) after its name and is safe to be released into the fortress. According to a forum post, a tamed tiger purchased from the elves will act as a guard, attacking hostile creatures. This is supposedly also true for other animals.

Beware, creatures that have killed dwarves (or other creatures?, see talk page) before being tamed are "un-tamable"; a "tame" creature that has killed a dwarf prior to its taming will go dwarf-killing as soon as they are released, with the added bonus of being immune to cage and weapon traps.

Dragons and other megabeasts may also be tamed, but this requires a [[Dungeon master]]. Specifically, any vermin or creature with the [PET_EXOTIC] flag requires a dungeon master.

Tamed vermin and animals may be adopted as [[pet]]s by the dwarves, and animals may also be [[slaughter]]ed for food. A colony of Muskoxen or some other peaceful animal can be used as a food source, by allowing them to breed, waiting for them to grow and then cutting down some of them in a [[Butchery]].

===Holding===
You can restrain creatures by fitting them in [[chain]]s/[[rope]]s, putting them in cages, or throwing them in [[pit]]s or ponds to reduce [[lag]] or prevent adoption as pets (so they remain slaughterable without tantruming owners).

* '''Cages''': An indefinite number of animals might be locked into one single cage. If you wish to fit your own tame animals into cages, you can do this by building a cage, and assigning some animals to it via the Building properties window (accessible by {{k|q}}). "Large animal caging" jobs will then be created, and dwarves will lock the hapless animals into the cage. Any offspring they give birth to is also born in the cage (but is not ''assigned'' to the cage, so if the cage isn't behind forbidden doors, your dwarves will immediately free it). There is some doubt whether animals do breed in cages; analysis is hindered by the fact that an already pregnant animal will give birth and little animals will grow up.

:Caveat — When an animal captured via a [[cage trap]] and then assigned to an existing cage, the dwarf moving the animal will tend to let it go. This can be avoided by building the cage the animal is in.{{v|0.27.173.38a}}

* '''Chains/ropes''': Build chains as buildings and assign animals to them. They'll be able to move one tile in any direction (including up/down) but will not be able to leave.

* '''Pits/ponds''': You can designate an area as pit or pond by creating an activity zone, designating it as pit/pond and setting its properties by pressing {{k|P}}. The pit or pond area has to have some level tiles, and some tiles that are one or more Z-levels below. Ponds will be filled with water by your dwarves, using buckets. Beware that land animals generally do not like to remain in a dark pit instead of your magnificent fortress, so they'll break free at the earliest opportunity.

===Zoo===
[[Zoo]] areas may be defined from cages via the {{k|q}} menu for the enjoyment of your dwarves. Be aware that dwarves will receive unhappy thoughts from seeing an animal they dislike in a zoo, but will also gain happy thoughts if they can go to view a loved animal. Owning the cage containing a loved animal is even better.

===Execution===
Imaginative methods have been discovered for the abuse of caged creatures.

* '''Execution tower''': One method is the execution tower; the caged critter is brought on top of a very tall (~10 Z-levels) tower or to the edge of a chasm; the the edge of the tower (some of the tower and some of the abyss) is designated as a Pit/Pond; the animal in the cage is assigned to be in the pit/pond and unassigned from the cage. A dwarf will run up to the tower, pull the creature out of its cage and throw it down into the depth.

* '''Death chambers''': A cage can be opened remotely by attaching a [[lever]] to it. This allows for some horrible traps, such as the drowning chamber or magma death chamber. A room is set up next to a water or magma pool, separated from it by a [[floodgate]]; a cage is put into the room, and a lever is attached to it; doors leading into the chamber are locked down; the cage and the floodgate are opened remotely. The creatures will then drown or burn. (The cage must be opened for this to work, as animals in cages do not drown. I don't currently know whether magma will melt non-magma-resistant cages along with it's owner.)

* '''Arenas''': Remote cage opening can also be used to set up arenas; a tame animal such as a tiger or dogs is locked into the arena; a cage containing a hostile animal, such as a goblin (presumably stripped of its weapons and armor) is also brought in the arena; doors are locked down and the cage is opened. The animals will shred the goblin (or in a worse case, the creatures will kill off your animals - therefore it is wise to assign some guards to the doorways to put down any breakout attempts).
You can strip a captured creature of its equipment by accessing the Stocks screen, finding its possessions (you can zoom on items and see if you're pointed to the holding cage, if in doubt), and ordering them dumped from there. Dwarves will come and force the items off your captives.

===Other uses===
* '''Usage as executor''': Instead of executing the trapped creature, one could execute a noble by placing a caged megabeast in its quarters and release the beast.

* '''Undressing captured folks''': Has to be done from the stocks menu, by {{k|d}}umping their stuff. In case of goblins and such, can easily be found by looking for narrow/small worn items.

[[Category:Creatures]]

User:Digger

2008-03-02T09:21:55Z

Digger: upd

Hi, I'm Digger, usually I go by a nick of Meat_Grinder or Kaktyc, however in case of digging a fortress I had to assume this one. Usually I'm adding some minor stuff and just being nitpicky, feel free to remind me of that when you think I go overboard. These are my first wiki-contributions after all :)

== BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT ==

I dedicate this script to '''ignir''', who, unable to use mouse in DF, left this awesome game long ago.
<pre>
;This is a script that enables basic mouse controls in DF. The precision of the scipt is ~1 tile for me.
;Feel free to modify it, however remember that DF cannot tell where your mouse is, and AutoHotKey cannot tell where the DF's cursor is, so it is your job to synchronize them :)
;Alright, I did everything to KILL that Numpad control setup >:) Laptop users could probably easily play with this one.
;The only problem with this control is that it takes 2 mouseclicks to navigate, so it will probably kill your mouse(instead of your keyboard, what DF inevitably does) in the long run.

;Recommendations: 12x12 tileset, Windowed mode, wide/large screen, 3-button wheeled mouse, brains.
;Once you get a hand of it, you will realize that you can navigate to the places you can't even see on the screen.

#InstallMouseHook ;This module of AutoHotKey tracks the mouse movement and clicks, it is not enabled by default, see AutoHotKey's readme for details
^+!z::Reload ;This one obviously reloads the script
^!s::Suspend ;This one toggles hotkeys on and off

;these ones scroll -/+. Just scroll the wheel! Hold shift for a speed boost.
~WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadSub}
}
return

~WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadAdd}
}
return

~LShift & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDiv}
}
return

~LShift & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadMult}
}
return

;these ones scroll Up/Down. Hold Left Ctrl & scroll! Hold z instead of Ctrl for a speed boost.
~LCtrl & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadUp}
}
return

~LCtrl & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDown}
}
return

~z & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgUp}
}
return

~z & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgDown}
}
return

;Switching z-levels. Hold Left Alt & scroll the wheel! Alt for altitude ;)
~LAlt & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{<}
}
return

~LAlt & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{>}
}
return

;Makes an Enter of Left Shift & LMB click.
LShift & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

;These two make a "c" of a MMB click both with and without Left shift
LShift & MButton::
Send {c}
return

MButton::
Send {c}
return

;RMB click is made into a Space both with and without Left Shift by these two
LShift & RButton::
Send {Space}
return

RButton::
Send {Space}
return

;My supreme script that tracks mouse movements in between two LMB clicks and transforms them into cursor movements. You WILL have to adjust the 2 values down there if you are not using 12x12 tileset.
LButton::
Label1:
CoordMode, Mouse, Screen
;estimating coordinates
IfEqual xpos1, 0
{
IfEqual ypos1, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos1, ypos1
}
}else{
IfEqual xpos2, 0
{
IfEqual ypos2, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos2, ypos2
{
;estimating difference in coordinates
xpos2 -= %xpos1%
ypos2 -= %ypos1%
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}

{
;estimating number of tiles to move, change 12x12 to YOUR tile size in order to get it right, it might be different in fullscreen/windowed, making it harder for you to use mouse
xpos2 /= 12
ypos2 /= 12
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}
;moving the cursor
Loop % Abs(xpos2)
{
If xpos2 > 0
{
Send {Right}
;MsgBox WIN
}else If xpos2 < 0
{
Send {Left}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
Loop % Abs(ypos2)
{
if ypos2 > 0
{
Send {Down}
;MsgBox WIN
}else if ypos2 < 0
{
Send {Up}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
}
return

LWin::
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
return
</pre>

40d:Macros and keymaps

2008-03-02T09:14:04Z

Digger: Added a link to the mouse script

Playing Dwarf Fortress means lots of typing. Although the game (as of version v0.27.169.33) has no internal macro/keymap system, using an external program can save you a great deal of time when dumping, rewalling, designating, and so forth.

# Go to [[Utilities#AutoHotKey]] and download AutoHotKey. Installation is simple and the program uses few system resources.
# Write macro scripts (file type .ahk), which may contain any number of commands. You activate scripts by double-clicking .ahk files and deactivate them by right-clicking the AutoHotKey icon on the task bar. Both of these can be done at any time - even right in the middle of a game. AutoHotKey also allows for automated activation of scripts.

== AutoHotKey Examples ==

===Dumping===
Taken from an old version of [[User:Jackard|Jackard's user page]].

To use, first have your bookeeper do enough desk work so you can view individual items in the stocks listing. Then bring it up and press del to quickly mark stuff. To adjust the key repeat rate, edit the KEY_HOLD_MS value in \data\init\init.txt.

<pre>
del::
IfWinActive Dwarf Fortress
{
send d{down}
return
}
else
{
send {del}
return
}
</pre>

A dumping script by [[User:Dukederek|Dukederek]]:

This script uses a system similar the commands in the designations menu to mark most of the contents of a large area for dumping. [[User:Dukederek|My talk page]] has more detailed instruction.

Essentially you need to create two text files with the following titles and content. When playing DF it is safe to have blockdumpinit running constantly as long as you dont plan on using the ctrl-d combination for something else.

'''blockdumpinit.ahk'''
<pre>
^d::
RunWait, "blockdumpmain.ahk"
Return
</pre>

'''blockdumpmain.ahk'''
<pre>
SetKeyDelay 25
return::
Send k
return
up::
Send w
return
left::
Send a
return
down::
Send s
return
right::
Send d
return
q::
ExitApp
return
shift::
x := 0
y := 1
Loop{
Input, keypress, B, {esc} , w,a,s,d,k,q
if keypress = w
{
y := --y
Send {up}
continue
}else if keypress = s
{
y := ++y
Send {down}
continue
}else if keypress = a
{
x := --x
Send {left}
continue
}else if keypress = d
{
x := ++x
Send {right}
continue
}else if keypress = k
{
break
}else if keypress = q
{
ExitApp
}
}
y := y / 2
z := y
z := Floor(z)
z := y/z
Send d{NumpadAdd}d
If z = 0
{
If x = 0
ExitApp
Else{
Loop %x%{
Send {left}d
}ExitApp
}
}If z <> 1
{
Loop %y%{
Loop %x%{
Send {left}d{NumpadAdd}d
}Send {up}d
Loop %x%{
Send {right}d{NumpadAdd}d
}Send {up}d{NumpadAdd}d
}Loop %x%{
Send {left}d{NumpadAdd}d
}
}Else If z = 1
{
y := y + 0.5
Loop %y%{
Loop %x%{
Send {left}d{NumpadAdd}d
}Send {up}d
Loop %x%{
Send {right}d{NumpadAdd}d
}Send {up}d{NumpadAdd}d
}Send d{NumpadSub}d
}ExitApp
</pre>

===Rewalling ===
Taken from [[User:Valdemar|Valdemar's user page]].

This is a macro to aid with rewalling. To use, copy-paste the script into a new .ahk file and run the script with AutoHotkey. Then, in Dwarf Fortress, press b-C-w, move the cursor to where you want to start the wall, and hold Ctrl-Shift-Arrowkey, using the direction you want to rewall in. To build floors, press b-C-f instead, and use Ctrl-Alt-Arrowkey. To stop, just release the keys.

The script will use the first material in the list. I suggest you create a stockpile near the construction site that only accepts the item you wish to build with and temporarily forbid any nearby materials you don't want to build with.

<pre>
$^+Left:: ProcessEvent("Left","w")
$^+Right:: ProcessEvent("Right","w")
$^+Up:: ProcessEvent("Up","w")
$^+Down:: ProcessEvent("Down","w")

$^!Left:: ProcessEvent("Left","f")
$^!Right:: ProcessEvent("Right","f")
$^!Up:: ProcessEvent("Up","f")
$^!Down:: ProcessEvent("Down","f")

ProcessEvent(direction, type)
{
Send {Enter}
Sleep 100
Send {Enter}
Sleep 100
Send %type%
Sleep 100
Send {%direction%}
Loop
{
if not GetKeyState(direction, "P")
break
Send {Enter}
Sleep 100
Send {Enter}
Sleep 100
Send %type%
Sleep 100
Send {%direction%}
}
}
</pre>

===Grid-by-grid designation===
For easier diagonal and fancy mining. Assumes that DF is active. "^!" means ctrl-alt-direction.

<pre>
^!NumpadEnd::
send {Enter}{Enter}{NumpadEnd}
return
^!NumpadDown::
send {Enter}{Enter}{NumpadDown}
return
^!NumpadPgDn::
send {Enter}{Enter}{NumpadPgDn}
return
^!NumpadLeft::
send {Enter}{Enter}{NumpadLeft}
return
^!NumpadRight::
send {Enter}{Enter}{NumpadRight}
return
^!NumpadHome::
send {Enter}{Enter}{NumpadHome}
return
^!NumpadUp::
send {Enter}{Enter}{NumpadUp}
return
^!NumpadPgUp::
send {Enter}{Enter}{NumpadPgUp}
return
</pre>

===Room-designation macros===

====Valdemar's Designator Macro====
This macro can read a spreadsheet and designate rooms according to it. [http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=2&t=001507 Forum Thread/Download]

====Fedor's chambered circle====
A circular room with eight equal-sized chambers, suitable for everything from housing to workshops to a mausoleum. 
[http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-216-room-designationmacro01 See this macro in action] 
[[Macros_and_Keymaps_Examples#Room-designation Macro 01|Macro text]]

====Valdemar's bedroom complex====
A large fractal bedroom/dining complex, with 56 bedrooms and room for 24 tables.

You can press Alt-B to create a bedroom block, or Alt-C to create a full complex with 4 bedroom blocks and a dining block in the center.

Note - the macro is much faster than the demo movie shows, it is done in under a minute.

[http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-252 Demo Movie]

[http://www.pindi.us/files/fractalbr.zip Download]

===The MOUSE control===
For unrivaled mouse control in DF try [http://www.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/User:Digger this DF Mouse script]

{{Game_Interface FAQ}}
[[Category:ahk scripts]]

User:Digger

2008-03-02T09:06:26Z

Digger: BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT

Hi, I'm Digger, usually I go by a nick of Meat_Grinder or Kaktyc, however in case of digging a fortress I had to assume this one. Usually I'm adding some minor stuff and just being nitpicky, feel free to remind me of that when you think I go overboard. These are my first wiki-contributions after all :)

== BEHOLD THE MOUSE SCRIPT ==

<pre>
;This is a script that enables basic mouse controls in DF. The precision of the scipt is ~1 tile for me.
;Feel free to modify it, however remember that DF cannot tell where your mouse is, and AutoHotKey cannot tell where the DF's cursor is, so it is your job to synchronize them :)
;Alright, I did everything to KILL that Numpad control setup >:) Laptop users could probably easily play with this one.
;The only problem with this control is that it takes 2 mouseclicks to navigate, so it will probably kill your mouse(instead of your keyboard, what DF inevitably does) in the long run.

;Recommendations: 12x12 tileset, Windowed mode, wide/large screen, 3-button wheeled mouse, brains.
;Once you get a hand of it, you will realize that you can navigate to the places you can't even see on the screen.

#InstallMouseHook ;This module of AutoHotKey tracks the mouse movement and clicks, it is not enabled by default, see AutoHotKey's readme for details
^+!z::Reload ;This one obviously reloads the script
^!s::Suspend ;This one toggles hotkeys on and off

;these ones scroll -/+. Just scroll the wheel! Hold shift for a speed boost.
~WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadSub}
}
return

~WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadAdd}
}
return

~LShift & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDiv}
}
return

~LShift & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadMult}
}
return

;these ones scroll Up/Down. Hold Left Ctrl & scroll! Hold z instead of Ctrl for a speed boost.
~LCtrl & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadUp}
}
return

~LCtrl & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadDown}
}
return

~z & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgUp}
}
return

~z & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send {NumpadPgDown}
}
return

;Switching z-levels. Hold Left Alt & scroll the wheel! Alt for altitude ;)
~LAlt & WheelUp::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{<}
}
return

~LAlt & WheelDown::
Loop %A_EventInfo%
{
Send +{>}
}
return

;Makes an Enter of Left Shift & LMB click.
LShift & LButton::
Send {Enter}
return

;These two make a "c" of a MMB click both with and without Left shift
LShift & MButton::
Send {c}
return

MButton::
Send {c}
return

;RMB click is made into a Space both with and without Left Shift by these two
LShift & RButton::
Send {Space}
return

RButton::
Send {Space}
return

;My supreme script that tracks mouse movements in between two LMB clicks and transforms them into cursor movements. You WILL have to adjust the 2 values down there if you are not using 12x12 tileset.
LButton::
Label1:
CoordMode, Mouse, Screen
;estimating coordinates
IfEqual xpos1, 0
{
IfEqual ypos1, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos1, ypos1
}
}else{
IfEqual xpos2, 0
{
IfEqual ypos2, 0
{
MouseGetPos, xpos2, ypos2
{
;estimating difference in coordinates
xpos2 -= %xpos1%
ypos2 -= %ypos1%
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}

{
;estimating number of tiles to move, change 12x12 to YOUR tile size in order to get it right, it might be different in fullscreen/windowed, making it harder for you to use mouse
xpos2 /= 12
ypos2 /= 12
;MsgBox %xpos2% %ypos2%
}
;moving the cursor
Loop % Abs(xpos2)
{
If xpos2 > 0
{
Send {Right}
;MsgBox WIN
}else If xpos2 < 0
{
Send {Left}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
Loop % Abs(ypos2)
{
if ypos2 > 0
{
Send {Down}
;MsgBox WIN
}else if ypos2 < 0
{
Send {Up}
;MsgBox WIN
}
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
} else
{
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
gosub Label1
}
}
return

LWin::
xpos1 = 0
ypos1 = 0
xpos2 = 0
ypos2 = 0
return
</pre>

40d Talk:Macros and keymaps

2008-03-01T19:28:56Z

Digger: /* INCOMING MOUSE. */

40d Talk:Macros and keymaps

2008-03-01T19:28:13Z

Digger: /* INCOMING MOUSE. */

40d Talk:Macros and keymaps

2008-03-01T19:27:55Z

Digger: INCOMING MOUSE.

Is 'Playing Dungeon Fortress' (first few words of the article) supposed to be a joke? --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 21:36, 25 December 2007 (EST)
:Probably meant to say "fortress mode"... Must be a typo which got overlooked. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 21:41, 25 December 2007 (EST)

== dump macro ==

I have written a dump macro that works a bit like the actual designation commands (with a few limitations). Is it okay just to add it to this page?

I have put it on my userpage now. someone with more authority can now place it where they wish

[[User:Dukederek|Dukederek]] 12:44, 21 January 2008 (EST)
:Feel free to put it here.[[User:Fedor|Fedor]] 15:30, 21 January 2008 (EST)

::After a few botched attempts, i think it's up in a satisfactory way :) [[User:Dukederek|Dukederek]] 15:46, 21 January 2008 (EST)

== INCOMING MOUSE. ==

Alright, I'm almost done with a working mouse script in AutoHotKey. I'm going to upload it no later than 2AM March 2, so get ready :P

40d:Ambush

2008-03-01T14:45:39Z

Digger: /* Goblins */ -deleted old wrong content.

An ambush is a sudden event in fortress mode when a small force of enemy humanoids attempts to attack your fortress. While smaller in scope than a full siege, ambushes are not related to the number of dwarves in your fortress, and so can be triggered by relatively small populations. An ambush is not announced immediately, but instead is announced when your fortress becomes aware of the attackers, such as when they set off a [[trap]] or come close to your dwarves or pets. It is announced with various messages: "An Ambush! Curse them!", "Ambush!" etc. Ambushs tend to arrive with caravans but can happen any time. They are not limited to one race - Kobolds and goblins can arrive shortly after each other although they will not join forces as such.

As of 38a, they are exceptionally dangerous.please add details

== Ambushers ==

=== Goblins ===

[[Goblins]] will send a small force of attackers between the ranges of 4-8 soldiers{{Verify}}. These forces are frequently led by one goblin with superior statistics and skill, and he is always of a different troop than the rest.

Usually they send more than one squad at once - up to 4 squads, each with its own leader. These squads may be from different goblin towers{{Verify}}.

Goblin are unable to navigate traps safely and can easily be killed or caught by simple [[weapon trap]]s or [[cage trap]]s. They also can not pass forbidden doors.

=== Kobolds ===

Similar to Goblins, [[Kobolds]] will first send thieves dependent on your fort's population and wealth. There are always at least 2 thieves.{{verify}} Kobold archers will begin to arrive if the Kobold thieves successfully steal any items - the number of successive archers and thieves who arrive will depend on how many items were stolen previously{{Verify}}. It is also suspected that the number of killed/escaped thieves plays a role.

=== Humans ===

Hostile [[human]]s will not ambush.{{Verify}}

=== Elves ===

Hostile [[elves]] will not ambush.{{Verify}}

== Tips ==

''The following is blind-copied from [[Siege]] and is not necessarily true to ambushes. Please modify!''

===Active Defense===
*Put your entire [[military]] on duty. With luck, most of them are not sleeping, eating, or drinking. If a [[squad]] leader is is doing anything of that sort, replace him with a more alert squad member (the squad always clusters about the leader. If the leader's eating, the squad will guard the table). Place melee units at major choke points, so they can meet the enemy head on, but try to keep them out of direct fire from enemy missile users. Place your own marksdwarves where they can rain death down on the enemies. They can also shoot from different Z levels, use this. (This is why you build [[fortifications]].) The building of small towers over the map with only underground acess for your marksdwarves is proven to be very effective against ambushes.

*[[War dog]]s are useful, but shouldn't be the first line of defense, unless you have quite a lot (12+) because enemy crossbowmen, if present, will quickly take care of them. Assign them to your military dwarves, or cage/chain them before the siege, and [[Release the Hounds!|release]] them via lever/pressure plate as the enemy is rounding a blind corner. They're also useful for clearing the field once the battle ends.

*[[Siege weapon]]s, catapults and ballistae, are likely to be ineffective against ambushes as a sudden ambush will likely be close enough to scare away the civilian siege operators.

===Passive Defense===
*If you have no trust in your military's power, keep all the dwarves inside and pull the ambushers into corridors with [[traps]]. Stone-fall traps are cheap and easy, but are one-shot traps with a long reload time; weapon traps require weapons, but reload themselves after a few seconds, until they eventually get stuck. A 10-square-long entry hall filled with weapon traps will break most [[goblin]] ambushes without any help. (How boring!)

*A moat may provide a decent defense when combined with a drawbridge to either keep the goblins from entering, or to drop them right into the water. Substitute magma for some far more lethal results. Even not filled 1-tile wide channel is a fast and effective way to stop ambushers or to guide them into areas you want. Note that water-filled moats will freeze in biomes with a temperate or cold climate, and so should have a protective wall behind them to stop ambushers simply walking over the moat during the winter.

=== Civilians ===

* Your normal dwarves will still attempt to do their jobs during an ambush. The [[Options]]->Dwarves Stay Inside option will prevent them from going outside, but only after walking to the entrance. Since many of your major defenses will be inside the fortress, this is only somewhat useful. Dwarves will run from invaders, but only ''after'' getting within crossbow-range, so their self-preservation skills are lackluster when the enemy has ranged weapons. Therefore, your best bet is to draft the dwarves in question (or simply all civilians) into one citizen-squad and station them somewhere out of harm's way. However, if any of your citizens are set to carry weapons or armor, they may decide to go collect equipment from slain [[goblins]]/dwarves during the ambush, which means they'll run out into the fray. Keep an eye on this, and turn off their [[weapons]]/[[armor]] accordingly.

* Providing indoor pastimes (like [[sculpture garden]], [[zoo]], [[meeting hall]], or a meeting area zone) will make dwarves spend their break time in the fortress rather than outside. This will typically stop all dwarves from hanging around outside. Hunters, woodcutters, haulers and other dwarves who have business outside will still be at risk.

See also: [[Fortress defense]]

[[Category:World]]
[[Category:Military]]
[[Category:Fortress Defense]]

40d Talk:Ambush

2008-03-01T14:44:50Z

Digger: /* Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death */

Yesterday, I had an ambush. My woodcutter was ambushed by a group of one goblin bowman and five swordsmen. They were invisible, until attacked him. I had never seen anything like this until 38a. Think, it's something new, should we add the article? What do you think?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:23, 6 February 2008 (EST)

: yes definitely. I have been ambushed 3 times already in one year. These attacks seem to coincide with trading caravans. --[[User:Kingzilla|Kingzilla]] 23:28, 6 February 2008 (EST)
::Is this really new? I started with 38a, but from reading i never expected anything else than thieves and ambushes with every caravan.--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

==Ambush messages==
In my experience with last version (38a) it showed 'Ambush, curse them' on kobold thieves, and 'Amush!' on beforementioned goblins. This surely needs verification--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 01:10, 7 February 2008 (EST)

:I have: 
:38a 
:Kobold thieves (2): An ambush! curse them!
:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:38c
:Kobold thieves (2): Thief! protect the hoard from skulking filth! (the different message may be caused by increased wealth)

:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:You can read back the whole announcements log (page up key) if you have the patience ;) --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

== Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death ==

Well, in my case he got caged, does that count? The squad of the 5 remaining goblin bowmen, however did not retreat, and continued to advance until torn apart by dogs. Only 1, last(after the other 4 died) goblin started retreating. That was 38a. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 05:07, 1 March 2008 (EST)

:I just had my marksdwarves pump a goblin leader full of timber, and his squadmates just charged. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 08:15, 1 March 2008 (EST)

::Alright I'm killing that part then. It's obviously wrong now. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 09:44, 1 March 2008 (EST)

User:Digger

2008-03-01T10:48:24Z

Digger: New page: Hi, I'm Digger, usually I go by a nick of Meat_Grinder or Kaktyc, however in case of digging a fortress I had to assume this one. Usually I'm adding some minor stuff and just being nitpick...

User:SL/Logic Gates

2008-03-01T10:36:30Z

Digger: /* Repeater */

This includes:
* [[#NOT_gate|NOT]], [[#AND_gate|AND]], [[#OR_gate|OR]], and [[#XOR_gate|XOR gates]]. [[#NOR_gate|NOR]] and [[#NAND_gate|NAND gates]] have single-sentence instructions, since you can build them by changing one pressure plate in an OR or AND gate, respectively.
* [[#Repeater|Repeater]] (which repeatedly toggles the output signals (it has two) between ON and OFF)
* [[#Memory|Memory]] - intended for replacing one-use pressure plates with resettable versions (one SET input signal, one CLEAR input signal, one output signal)

The most useful things are the repeater and memory, in my opinion, but the others can be useful too.

==Example uses for each gate==
[[#Repeater|Repeater]]: Repeatedly toggling things between ON and OFF states (like hatches, spikes, etc)

[[#Memory|Memory]]: Making resettable one-use pressure plates which are reset by a lever. When the SET input (from one of the aforementioned pressure plates) is triggered, the memory changes its output to the ON state until it receives the CLEAR (reset) signal. The pressure plate turning off does not turn off the memory's output.

[[#NOT_gate|NOT gate]]: Reversing the effect of a switch or creature-sensing pressure plate, generally linked to a memory device. You can, of course, mod the memory device to send the opposite signal instead of using a NOT gate.

[[#AND_gate|AND gate]]: Requiring more than one condition to be true for something to occur. For instance, a system on/off switch and the output of a memory device could both be linked to an AND gate, and the AND gate's output could be linked to a repeater. The repeater would not run if the system on/off switch was OFF, or if the memory device was not outputting ON.

[[#OR_gate|OR gate]]: You could link two 1-7 water sensors to an OR gate, and link that to a NOT gate, and link that to some floodgates or doors which act as emergency bulkheads, closing when water is detected in the area. Or, link the OR gate to bridges which raise instead (but you may crush things, and bridges are slower than doors).

[[#XOR_gate|XOR gate]]: If you wanted hallways with raising bridge bulkheads which closed if water approached but opened if water got past them, you could build a water 1-7 pressure plate on either end of the hallway, outside the bulkheads, and link them to an XOR whose output is linked to the bulkheads. When water reaches one pressure plate, the bridge bulkheads would both raise. If the water was moving so fast that it filled most of the hall before the bulkheads closed, and it then reached the second bulkhead some time later, both bulkheads would open. I'm not sure how this would actually be *useful*, though. :P

[[#NOR_gate|NOR gate]]: A NOR gate returns TRUE (ON) only if both inputs are FALSE. Instead of using the OR gate example with a NOT gate, you could use a NOR gate linked to two 1-7 water sensors, whose output goes to doors or floodgates. When the pressure plates are both waterless, the floodgates will be open. When one detects water, the floodgates close. (If you used 0-0 pressure plates with an OR, you would get an OFF signal if both plates detected water, or an ON signal otherwise (which is the same as 1-7 NAND 1-7))

[[#NAND_gate|NAND gate]]: A NAND gate returns TRUE (ON) whenever both inputs are not both TRUE (e.g. ON NAND ON is OFF, but every other combination is ON). Instead of the OR NOT or NOR example, you could link two 0-0 water sensors to a NAND gate, and link the NAND gate's output to raising bridges. 0-0 NAND 0-0 is the same as 1-7 OR 1-7. If there is no water on both pressure plates, the NAND gate will output an OFF signal. If, however, either has water, it will output an ON signal.

==Bigger example of something useful==
Example combination of devices to make invaders trigger repeating spikes until you disable them via a lever, and to allow you to turn the device completely off and make it not activate even if something walks over the pressure plates:
* Devices required: Pressure plates, spikes, memory, repeater, AND gate, two levers, optional NOT gate for one of the levers.

* '''System On/Off Switch''': A lever, hooked to AND gate's first input. Should be ON when you want the device to work, and OFF when you want it to not work. If you want it reversed, then instead hook the lever to a NOT gate's input and hook the NOT gate's output to the AND gate's first input.
* '''Invaders Fled Switch''': A lever, hooked to Memory's CLEAR input. Pull (switch to ON) to make the repeater shut down, then pull again (switch to OFF) to set the lever up for the next time it has to be used.
* '''Pressure plates''' for detecting Mobile Bad Things: Each one is hooked to memory's SET input. Place a row of these in your entrance or what have you, so that there's no way to get past them without stepping on one.
* '''[[#Memory|Memory]]''': SET input hooked to all of the aforementioned pressure plates. CLEAR input hooked to Invaders Fled switch. Output hooked to AND gate's second input.
* '''[[#AND_gate|AND gate]]''': First input hooked to System On/Off Switch. Second input hooked to Memory's output. Output hooked to Repeater's ENABLE input.
* '''[[#Repeater|Repeater]]''': ENABLE input hooked to AND gate's output. First output hooked to checkerboard black square spikes. Second input hooked to checkerboard white square spikes.
* '''Checkerboard patterned spikes:'''
** Black squares: All hooked to repeater's first output.
** White squares: All hooked to repeater's second output.
* Note: Spikes take about twice as long as hatches or doors to respond to signals. Bridges are also slow. (I haven't tried floodgates, since doors are fast)

Demonstration of one repeater hooked to both spikes and hatches, showing the speed difference etc: http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-281-repeaterinaction

==What you need to make these==
These gates use water for computing, but input and output signals are mechanical in nature (linked pressure plates etc). They require power and are constructed on top of (ideally) a murky pool, (non-pressurized) dwarf-made cistern, river, stream, brook, or aquifer. Each one uses one or two pumps only, so the power requirements are small.

The ideal thing to build these on top of would be an aquifer, since it is capable of absorbing huge amounts of water while also providing huge amounts fairly rapidly. Building on a river or stream may be dangerous (maybe only if the river is entirely 7/7 despite the gates' pump) - it is possible to cause a catastrophic overflow centered on the pump which can only be ended by blocking the pump's input square with a hatch or disconnecting it from power. Damming the river MIGHT prevent an overflow, but would not stop one that is already in progress. {{version|33g}}

You could theoretically replace the pump and input hatch with a hatch in a channel above the pump output square, and provide water from above. You'd have to be sure to floor over the top of the gates, though, to make sure that the pressurized water doesn't overflow, and you'd have to be careful about overflow from whereever the water drains to, too (if it fills to 7/7 it could flow up through other drain channels, or stairs, etc).

===Advice for building these on pools===
* These gates slowly deplete the water source which they are connected to while pumping, if it is a finite source (e.g. a murky pool).
* Running them on top of a a pool which is filled to 7/7 is safe.
* Refilling a pool to 7/7 from another water source is (usually) safe.
* Running a pump on top of a pool which is connected to a water source is, however, NOT safe.
* Even though the pump's output is surrounded by walls, it WILL result in a catastrophic overflow (Let's call it a "superflood"): If all the water in the pool is 7/7 and the tile above it also fills up to 7/7, it seems to cause the water around the pump's output (even though it is walled in) to create water above itself if it is below the pump's z level. This expands in a circle (if there's no terrain, walls, etc, in the way), generating water until the all accessible tiles (without going above the pump's z level) are filled with water. Even worse is that shutting off the connection to the original water source (river, etc) will not stop the flooding! Somehow this turns your pump into an unlimited water generator. Shutting off the power to the pump or blocking the input with a hatch appears to stop the infinite water generation, however. A safety pressure plate (NOT walled in) built next to the gate, linked to the input hatch and set to water 0-0 will serve to arrest any superflood in the very early stages, but once the water evaporates it will open the hatch, and it will likely begin flooding again for a second or two if you haven't taken measures to prevent it.
* If you want to build gates on murky pools or dwarf-made cisterns, the best thing to do is to provide a means of disabling all the gates remotely (lever linked to gear assemblies between the gates and power, for instance), and provide a connection to an infinite source (river, brook, aquifer, or the like) via a floodgate which is controlled by another lever. Disable your gates prior to refilling, then open the floodgate to refill, then close the floodgate to disconnect the pool from the water source, and only then re-enable the gates. The pressurization and overflow problem can (theoretically) only occur on a murky pool if something refills the pool while there is water in the logic gates (But I'm not 100% certain about that).
* Make sure your refiller's source (pumps are sources, or a water source if it's directly connected to it without pumps) is on the same z level as the pool, or you will likely cause a castastrophic overflow even if you don't have any gates on top of it.

===General advice and information on variants===
Keep in mind that there IS a delay in operation with these gates due to the delay in hatch response to pressure plate signals. (Doors, by the way, respond at the same speed as hatches. Bridges are slower.)

I've built two variants of these gates, 'Faster' and 'Safer'.

===='''Short description of both variants'''====
* 'Faster' is faster but can become unreliable if the pump runs out of water. In practice, the 'faster' pumps usually will run out of water in a murky pool, or in a river which is flowing from the output's side towards the drain's side (haven't tried the other way, but it might work better).
* 'Safer' has blocked drains when sending an ON* signal, so it is safer, but generally switches from ON* to OFF* a little more slowly than 'Faster'.
* * = For NOT, NAND, and NOR gates, swap ON and OFF in the previous sentence to get the correct meaning.

===='''Detail'''====
* The 'Faster' variant does not use bridges to prevent water from draining while it is being pumped, whereas the 'Safer' variant does. This causes the 'Faster' gates to switch states faster when the 'Safer' bridges would be lowering, but if the water source is low, the gate can become unreliable. In testing, a 'Faster' NOT gate (for instance) sending an OFF signal, built on a small murky pool, periodically flips its output ON for a couple seconds. The 'safer' variant does not become unreliable unless you run almost completely out of water in the entire pool/brook/etc, but switching can be a little bit slower in one direction due to the bridges.
* Larger murky pools, and having your input in the center instead of the edge of the pool, or in a strong river or the like (especially if you pump from the river feed end towards the river drain end, or better still, if river water enters the map from both ends of the river (Hard to tell unless you try to drain it!)), should reduce the likelihood of the 'Faster' variant becoming unreliable.

===='''Useful note for 'Safer' '''====
* You can mitigate the slowdown for 'safer' variants by changing all 4-7 pressure plates to 7-7, and all 0-3 to 0-6, if you are building on a river or aquifer. If your water level is low, however, this will make the gates take longer to switch to ON*, or they may never turn on. (That will not work at all on the repeater because of the way it tests water depth at water level instead of in a pump-fed chamber)
* * = For NOT, NAND, and NOR gates, replace ON with OFF in that sentence.

==Gate Diagrams==

All diagrams are top-down.

===Common symbols in the diagrams===
* # is a wall.
* @> is a pump which pumps from west to east. An @ with a v below it pumps from north to south (the only one of these is in the OR gate).
* H is a hatch, almost always over water.
* ^ is a pressure plate.
* . is a channel over water.

Doors for maintenance and construction are not shown. You may replace any walls with doors (as long as DF allows it). I generally have two doors per gate.

Power sources are not shown. You will probably want to build windmills on top of these, but you can provide power in any way you see fit.

===NOT gate===
====Faster====
#######
#H@>^.#
#######
====Safer====
########
#H@>^B.#
########

====Details====
* The H is a hatch which should be over open water. The @> is a pump which pumps from the west, to the east. The ^ is a water 0-3 pressure plate. The . is a channel, which is connected to the water source below.
* For the safer variant, the B is a 1x1 bridge which raises to the west. It should be linked to your input signal.
* The H is linked to your input signal.
* The ^ is linked to your output devices.
* You will need a windmill or the like to power the pump.

====How this works====
* If the input is OFF, the hatch will be closed, water will not be pumpable, and water already on the pressure plate will and evaporate or go down the drain.
* If the input is ON, the hatch will be open, allowing water to be pumped up. The pump pumps water fast enough to keep the pressure plate above 3 water, keeping the output signal OFF.
* In the safer variant, the bridge will block water when the input is ON, keeping it on the pressure plate.

===AND gate===
====Faster====
########
#H@>D^.#
########
====Safer====
#########
#H@>D^B.#
######B##
###

====Details====
* The H is a hatch which should be over open water. The @> is a pump which pumps from the west, to the east. The D is a door. The ^ is a water 4-7 pressure plate. The . is a channel, which is connected to the water source below.
* The H is linked to your first input signal.
* The D is linked to your second input signal.
* The ^ is linked to your output devices.
* For the safer variant, each B is a 1x1 bridge which raises west. Each one should be linked to a different input signal.
* You will need a windmill or the like to power the pump.

====How this works====
* Both inputs have to be ON to allow water to reach the pressure plate.
* For the safer variant, if either input is OFF there will be a path through one bridge to the drain. It is only blocked when both are ON.

===OR gate===
====Faster====
###
#H#
#@#
####v#
#H@>^##
#####.#
###

====Safer====
Replace the bottom-right 3x3 area with this 5x3 area:
^####
#BB.#
#####

====Details====
* Note that the safer OR gate is quite a bit slower at shutting off than the faster one, due to the added distance to the drain as well as the bridge delay.
* The Hs are hatches which should be over open water. The @> is a pump which pumps from the west to the east, and the @v is a pump which pumps from the north to the south. The ^ is a water 4-7 pressure plate. The . is a channel, which is connected to the water source below.
* The top H is linked to your first input signal. The bottom H is linked to your second input signal.
* The ^ is linked to your output devices.
* You will need a windmill or the like to power the pump.
* For the safer variant, each B is a 1x1 bridge raising west, each of which should be linked to a different input signal.

====How this works====
* If either input is ON, water will flow into the center and cover the pressure plate.
* For the safer variant, if either input is ON the path to the drain will be blocked. Both have to be OFF for the drain to be accessible.

===XOR gate===
====Faster====
########
#H@>B###
#H@>B^.#
########
====Safer====
#########
#H@>B#DD##
#H@>B^BB.#
##########

====Details====
* The Hs are hatches which should be over open water. The @> are pumps which pump from the west, to the east. The ^ is a water 4-7 pressure plate. Each B is a 1x1 bridge which raises west. Each . is a channel, which is connected to the water source below.
* The top H is linked to your first input signal. The bottom H is linked to your second input signal.
* The top (top-left if you're using 'safer') B is linked to your second input signal. The bottom (bottom-left if you're using 'safer') B is linked to your first input signal.
* The ^ is linked to your output devices.
* You will need a windmill or the like to power the pumps.
* For the safer variant: The Ds are doors. For the following instructions, consider 'left' to be the leftmost in the set of two doors/bridges to the right, and consider 'right' to be the rightmost one. The left door and the right bridge should be linked to the first input, and the right door and the left bridge should be linked to the second input.

====How this works====
* If no inputs are ON, the hatches are closed, and the bridges are all lowered (passable). Any water in the system will drain, and none will be pumped.
* If one input is ON, one hatch will be open, and one bridge will be blocking. Water will flow through the non-blocking bridge, so the pressure plate will be triggered.
* If both inputs are ON, both hatches will be open, but both bridges will be blocking. Water will not reach the pressure plate.
* For the safer variant's drain:
* * If no inputs are ON, both right bridges are passable and both doors are closed. Water will flow over the bridges.
* * If the first input is ON, the left bridge will be raised (blocking), the right door will be open, and the left door will be closed. Water can not reach the drain.
* * If the second input is ON, the right bridge will be raised (blocking), the left door will be open, and the right door will be closed. Water can not reach the drain.
* * If both inpust are ON, both bridges will be raised (blocking), and both doors will be open. Water will flow through the open doors.

===NOR gate===
Identical to the OR gate, except that the pressure plate is 0-3 instead of 4-7.

===NAND gate===
Identical to the AND gate, except that the pressure plate is 0-3 instead of 4-7.

===Repeater===
* This is two levels in size. The bottom level should be at the same level as a water source such as a murky pond.
* X is a floodgate which allows or disallows water entering the system. @> is a pump which draws from the west and pumps to the east.
* ~ is the water source. Ideally it should actually be a solid dirt/rock/whatever tile on the side of a pool/river/whatever before you start construction. You can install the floodgate first, and then dig your channel above, which will let the tile fill with water.
* There is only one version of this, no 'faster' or 'safer' variants. (2 or more of these will increase the frequency(speed), however they have to be desynchronized)

====Bottom level====
####
#^^X~
####

====Top level====
######
#H@>.#
######

====Details====
* The hatch (H) should be just above the leftmost (4-7) pressure plate, and should be linked to it.
* The floodgate (X) is your ENABLE input. Hook it to something to enable or disable the system. (An ON signal enables the repeater, an OFF signal causes it to stop repeating after a short delay)
* The left pressure plate is water 4-7, and the right pressure plate is water 0-1. The right pressure plate is ... iffy. Whether it flips regularly or not depends on how fast water enters the gate. It appears that once the repeater is turned on, it may take a minute or two for the right pressure plate to begin flipping regularly (the repeater seems to somehow slow down how fast water enters it after a minute or so of running).
* The left pressure plate and the right pressure plate can be linked to different things that need to toggle repeatedly. The left pressure plate is very reliable. The right one is not so reliable. It will generally (if it's working) be ON while the left one is OFF, and vice versa.
* You may optionally want to hook an additional lever to the hatch in order to open it temporarily to allow full draining in the event that you need to let dwarves into the repeater body. That would be your MAINTENANCE input.

===Memory===
* The primary purpose for this is replacing one-use pressure plates with resettable versions which use this device to remember the ON signal from the pressure plate until a lever (or whatnot) is flipped to clear it.
* This has two input signals (SET and CLEAR), and one output signal.
* Note: If either the SET or CLEAR signals are levers, you should flip them off again after flipping them on.

====Diagram====
#######
#H@>^H#
#######

====Details====
* The Hs are hatches which should be over open water. The @> is a pump which pumps from the west, to the east. The ^ is a water 7-7 pressure plate.
* The left H is linked to your SET input signal. The right H is linked to your CLEAR input signal.
* The ^ is linked to your output devices.
* You will need a windmill or the like to power the pump.

====How this works====
* When the SET signal is received (e.g. the pressure plate is stepped on, whatever), the left hatch opens, and the pump fills the right compartment with water. Our pressure plate (the output) flips to ON.
* When the SET signal is no longer being received, the pump can no longer pump, but the compartment remains filled, so the pressure plate remains ON.
* When the CLEAR signal is received, the right hatch opens, and the water drains. If the hatch is not open for very long, enough will still drain that our pressure is no longer at 7/7 water, so it will flip OFF.
* If the SET signal and CLEAR signal are both ON at the same time, the output is unknown and possibly unpredictable: If the pump can hold the pressure plate tile at 7/7 despite the drain, it will be ON. If it runs out of water to pump and the tile stays below 7/7, it will be OFF. If it oscillates between 7/7 and lower values, you may (or may not, depending on the speed at which it changes) get seemingly random signals from the output.

====Extra notes on the Memory device====
* If you want to avoid the simultaneous SET + CLEAR = INSANITY problem (As described in the last note in the "How this works" section), and do not mind CLEARing taking a little longer, you may use a 4-7 pressure plate instead of a 7-7 one. This should result in an ON signal whenever both SET and CLEAR are ON at the same time. Note that if you aren't having that problem (it's staying at 7/7 despite the drain), if your water source depletes over time the problem may start occuring some time in the future.
* Sending multiple SET or CLEAR signals is harmless, which means you can hook as many pressure plates as you want up to one memory's SET input.

User talk:SL/Logic Gates

2008-03-01T10:34:06Z

Digger:

== The Repeater ==

Actually there ARE faster versions of this - that's 2 or more desyncronized repeaters. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 05:33, 1 March 2008 (EST)

User talk:SL/Logic Gates

2008-03-01T10:33:50Z

Digger: Regarding the Repeater

== Regarding the Repeater ==

Actually there ARE faster versions of this - that's 2 or more desyncronized repeaters. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 05:33, 1 March 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Well

2008-03-01T10:22:49Z

Digger: /* Using Buckets? */

Where can these be constructed? only near an aquifer?--[[User:Alc|Alc]] 14:16, 30 October 2007 (EDT)

Open space probably refers to just that - a dug-out space below it that leads to water. Will have to test, though. --[[User:Tracker|Tracker]] 15:54, 30 October 2007 (EDT)

Does it need to be a channel all the way down, on all levels below the well, or can you have normal floor below it all the way down to water? Can you put one well directly above another well, and have them both work (if there's water below)? --[[User:Sowelu|Sowelu]] 15:56, 30 October 2007 (EDT)

:You don't need to have channels all the way down. I haven't actually built any, but I don't see why it HAS to go all the way down, I just think there needs to be water there.
::Has it been verified that you need water down there? --[[User:Mitchy|Mitchy]] 11:22, 8 November 2007 (EST)

Does anyone know if it is okay to have a well like this? 
(side view)
<pre>
_W_
| | <-- Empty space between water and well
|~| <-- Water down here
---
</pre>
--[[User:Delton|Delton]] 16:07, 14 November 2007 (EST)

Confirmed that the above is a functional well.
--[[User:Delton|Delton]] 07:52, 19 November 2007 (EST)

== Flooding? ==

Gah! Why do my wells keep flooding? How can I prevent this? [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 06:08, 26 November 2007 (EST)

-- Well ... if you did it like I did [http://www.vaevictus.net/images/bucket_full.png (lol)], you lost to backpressure. i filled from a reservoir that was taller than my well floor. (and it was attached to a brook. :) I'm working on using a floodgate and pressure plate to regulate water levels. [[User:Vaevictus|Vaevictus]] 11:30, 20 December 2007 (EST)

== Fair Warning ==

Whatever you do, don't let a barracks area overlap any of your wells. Military dwarves can and will fall in if they're sparring next to it. Ah well, I didn't want that full set of bismuth bronze armor anyway. -- [[User:Vanst|Vanst]] 08:39, 26 December 2007 (EST)

== Grates and Buckets ==

Buckets don't pass through grates, in the well construct. That means a well with a grate halfway will become dry. I had 2/7 water above the grate (and 5 levels of 7/7 water under it), but it was not enough. [[User:Wlievens|Wlievens]] 07:24, 23 January 2008 (EST)

== flood? ==

I have a <s>lake</s> murky pool outside(reaching down one more z level). On the same level i want to construct a well inside. can i just build a channel, thus tap the lake on the lower z level and then build a well on top of the end of the channel? or do i need one more level free space? If i can, will the water flood my outpost or will it stop on floor level? would it help if i tapped the lake one more level down? --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 17:12, 8 February 2008 (EST)
:So long as the well is at or above the level of the pond you will have no problem. --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 23:11, 11 February 2008 (EST)
:: It worked fine. Now however the murky pool is dry, so i built a new one tapping the river. ;) --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 13:53, 22 February 2008 (EST)

== Using Buckets? ==
I'm having a hard time getting my dwarfs to use their new well. I...
* Dug a Channel with water beneath it.
* Designated a drinking zone beside it.
** The dwarfs now drink from the channel.
** Loo{{k|k}}ing at the space they're drinking from says Open Space
* Created Blocks, Bucket, Rope
* {{k|b}}uild we{{k|l}}l over the water beside the drinking designation.

Now what happened was I got a massive flood of messages saying something like "XXX Cancelled Drinking: No Bucket at well"

So I went and built another Bucket, and now I have 2 buckets sitting in my finished goods stockpile, and nobody who's willing to drink from the well. How do I instruct the lazy dwarves to go and get the bucket and use it with the well?

[[User:Zeidrich|Zeidrich]] 15:15, 29 February 2008 (EST)

: Why do you need them to use the well? As far as I know, the only time having a well is useful is when the injured need water. Even then, I strongly suspect that people can just drink from the river. --[[User:Shadow archmagi|Shadow archmagi]] 16:02, 29 February 2008 (EST)

:: Well, I want them to use a well because I built it! It looks prettier than drinking out of the stream. I'm pretty sure they get bad thoughts when they drink directly out of the stream. In this particular circumstance I was short on brewable supplies and I had a bunch of thirsty dwarves. Regardless of whether or not I should necessarily be using a well, I would like know ''how'' to use it.-- [[User:Zeidrich|Zeidrich]] 18:37, 29 February 2008 (EST)
:::Well, I believe that the well is *'''built'''* with a bucket, since you require one for construction. If it's really not there for whatever reason, then you may want to rebuild the well(and make sure that furniture hauling orders are ON), and if that doesn't fix it, then i think this is a bug and should be reported to the Toady One, along with the save. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 05:22, 1 March 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Ambush

2008-03-01T10:08:42Z

Digger: /* Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death */

40d Talk:Ambush

2008-03-01T10:08:26Z

Digger: /* Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death */

Yesterday, I had an ambush. My woodcutter was ambushed by a group of one goblin bowman and five swordsmen. They were invisible, until attacked him. I had never seen anything like this until 38a. Think, it's something new, should we add the article? What do you think?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:23, 6 February 2008 (EST)

: yes definitely. I have been ambushed 3 times already in one year. These attacks seem to coincide with trading caravans. --[[User:Kingzilla|Kingzilla]] 23:28, 6 February 2008 (EST)
::Is this really new? I started with 38a, but from reading i never expected anything else than thieves and ambushes with every caravan.--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

==Ambush messages==
In my experience with last version (38a) it showed 'Ambush, curse them' on kobold thieves, and 'Amush!' on beforementioned goblins. This surely needs verification--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 01:10, 7 February 2008 (EST)

:I have: 
:38a 
:Kobold thieves (2): An ambush! curse them!
:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:38c
:Kobold thieves (2): Thief! protect the hoard from skulking filth! (the different message may be caused by increased wealth)

:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:You can read back the whole announcements log (page up key) if you have the patience ;) --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

== Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death ==

Well, in my case he got caged, does that count? The squad of the 5 remaining goblin bowmen, however did not retreat, and continued to advance until torn apart by dogs. Only 1, last(after the other 4 died) goblin started retreating. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 05:07, 1 March 2008 (EST)
That was 38a.

40d Talk:Ambush

2008-03-01T10:07:52Z

Digger: /* Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death */

40d Talk:Ambush

2008-03-01T10:07:12Z

Digger: forgot to sign

Yesterday, I had an ambush. My woodcutter was ambushed by a group of one goblin bowman and five swordsmen. They were invisible, until attacked him. I had never seen anything like this until 38a. Think, it's something new, should we add the article? What do you think?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:23, 6 February 2008 (EST)

: yes definitely. I have been ambushed 3 times already in one year. These attacks seem to coincide with trading caravans. --[[User:Kingzilla|Kingzilla]] 23:28, 6 February 2008 (EST)
::Is this really new? I started with 38a, but from reading i never expected anything else than thieves and ambushes with every caravan.--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

==Ambush messages==
In my experience with last version (38a) it showed 'Ambush, curse them' on kobold thieves, and 'Amush!' on beforementioned goblins. This surely needs verification--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 01:10, 7 February 2008 (EST)

:I have: 
:38a 
:Kobold thieves (2): An ambush! curse them!
:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:38c
:Kobold thieves (2): Thief! protect the hoard from skulking filth! (the different message may be caused by increased wealth)

:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:You can read back the whole announcements log (page up key) if you have the patience ;) --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

== Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death ==

Well, in my case he got caged, does that count? The squad of the 5 remaining goblin bowmen, however did not retreat, and continued to advance until pwnd by dogs. Only 1, last(after the other 4 died) goblin started retreating. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 05:07, 1 March 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Ambush

2008-03-01T10:06:49Z

Digger:

Yesterday, I had an ambush. My woodcutter was ambushed by a group of one goblin bowman and five swordsmen. They were invisible, until attacked him. I had never seen anything like this until 38a. Think, it's something new, should we add the article? What do you think?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:23, 6 February 2008 (EST)

: yes definitely. I have been ambushed 3 times already in one year. These attacks seem to coincide with trading caravans. --[[User:Kingzilla|Kingzilla]] 23:28, 6 February 2008 (EST)
::Is this really new? I started with 38a, but from reading i never expected anything else than thieves and ambushes with every caravan.--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

==Ambush messages==
In my experience with last version (38a) it showed 'Ambush, curse them' on kobold thieves, and 'Amush!' on beforementioned goblins. This surely needs verification--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 01:10, 7 February 2008 (EST)

:I have: 
:38a 
:Kobold thieves (2): An ambush! curse them!
:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:38c
:Kobold thieves (2): Thief! protect the hoard from skulking filth! (the different message may be caused by increased wealth)

:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:You can read back the whole announcements log (page up key) if you have the patience ;) --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

== Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death ==

Well, in my case he got caged, does that count? The squad of the 5 remaining goblin bowmen, however did not retreat, and continued to advance until pwnd by dogs. Only 1, last(after the other 4 died) goblin started retreating.

40d Talk:Ambush

2008-03-01T10:06:07Z

Digger: Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death

Yesterday, I had an ambush. My woodcutter was ambushed by a group of one goblin bowman and five swordsmen. They were invisible, until attacked him. I had never seen anything like this until 38a. Think, it's something new, should we add the article? What do you think?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:23, 6 February 2008 (EST)

: yes definitely. I have been ambushed 3 times already in one year. These attacks seem to coincide with trading caravans. --[[User:Kingzilla|Kingzilla]] 23:28, 6 February 2008 (EST)
::Is this really new? I started with 38a, but from reading i never expected anything else than thieves and ambushes with every caravan.--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

==Ambush messages==
In my experience with last version (38a) it showed 'Ambush, curse them' on kobold thieves, and 'Amush!' on beforementioned goblins. This surely needs verification--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 01:10, 7 February 2008 (EST)

:I have: 
:38a 
:Kobold thieves (2): An ambush! curse them!
:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:38c
:Kobold thieves (2): Thief! protect the hoard from skulking filth! (the different message may be caused by increased wealth)

:Goblins: An ambush! curse them!

:You can read back the whole announcements log (page up key) if you have the patience ;) --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:17, 29 February 2008 (EST)

== Enemy squad supposedly fleeing after the commander's death ==

Well, in my case he got caged, does that count? The squad of the 5 remaining goblin bowmen, however did not retreat, and continued to advance until pwnd by dogs. Only 1, last remaining goblin started retreating.

40d Talk:Melt item

2008-03-01T10:00:42Z

Digger:

How material efficient is melting things down? [[User:Risim|Risim]] 23:54, 25 January 2008 (EST)
:It's not lossless, that's for sure. I could be quite wrong, but something makes me want to say it's around 3:1, based on bars required to create the items. I think overages are lost, but that's just a casual observation. It's really the only way to get certain metals in larger quantities though, assuming importing the bars or ore alone aren't good enough for your means. (Most commonly run into when trying to get certain metals from the mountainhomes before you're ready to bring in humans) --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 06:32, 26 January 2008 (EST)
:: Does smelting need coal?--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:53, 29 February 2008 (EST)
:::It needs fuel. So coal or magma. --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 00:25, 1 March 2008 (EST)

:Well, i got a bar of steel from melting a steel piccolo and a steel toy axe(2 items), however the piccolo was of "*" quality, not sure if the quality affects melting or not, so mentioning it just to be on the safe side.

File talk:Df-crops-diagram.png

2008-03-01T09:57:42Z

Digger: Suggestion.

Would also be nice to see what processes generate seeds.

40d Talk:Pressure plate

2008-02-26T04:28:40Z

Digger:

Approximately how long after a pressure plate is stepped on will it's effects happen?
For instance, I have a pressure plate. Two squares away is a pit trap linked to the plate. Will that work at all?--[[User:Tarsier|Tarsier]] 22:50, 7 November 2007 (EST)
:Well, consider the fact that different creatures move at different speeds, the trap may be too fast or too slow for them, or it might be just right, you can't be sure until you test it. Have some captured goblin run through it and have a cage trap a little further in case they make it through alive. If i were you, I would make at least 2 tile long pit trap. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 23:28, 25 February 2008 (EST)

== More detailed instructions? ==

Might be worth adding to the article instructions on common operations with pressure plates. For example, how do you use a plate to close a floodgate? Does the plate open, close or toggle the gate? Should it be set to activate when the water/magma level is low or high? etc. [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 15:37, 27 November 2007 (EST)
:Heh. Just figured it out. Is it correct? [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 17:00, 27 November 2007 (EST)

40d Talk:Giant eagle

2008-02-25T17:09:02Z

Digger:

More dangerous than [[carp|Carp]]? Oooh...we need a [[King of the beasts]] page just to debate the most evil of creatures.--[[User:Draco18s|Draco18s]] 12:11, 2 November 2007 (EDT)

Are we sure that a giant eagle really gives 10 bones, and 10 meat? The thing must be the size of an elephant. That's more like a Roc, not an eagle.

:Well, that *is* basically what a Roc is. No one said how big 'giant' is. I wouldn't be surprised if giant eagles could eventually pick up and drop dwarves. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 02:30, 31 December 2007 (EST)

I have a couple of those GEs hovering in the middle of the map, any chance i could catch one? --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 12:09, 25 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Goblin

2008-02-25T17:05:43Z

Digger: /* add smth about timing? */

==== Thieves & cage traps ====
Not sure that Goblin (master) thieves /can/ evade traps. I've caught a bucketful in cage traps. Didn't know what to do with them, mind... [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 09:23, 13 November 2007 (EST)

I've noticed that when i melt down Narrow Steel Equipment, all i get is Copper! can someone verify this as a bug or intentional? -- Bullion

:I would think that that would be a bug. [[User:Mindsnap|Mindsnap]] 18:42, 3 December 2007 (EST)

Does adding [CURIOUSBEAST_GUZZLER] actually semi-fix sieges? I thought that it didn't. [[User:Mindsnap|Mindsnap]] 18:42, 3 December 2007 (EST)

:Uh, surely this isn't a real tag? --[[User:Geofferic|Geofferic]] 17:15, 12 December 2007 (EST)
::It's used on gnomes, so that they can drink your booze if they find it. Strangely, it's also used on bears. Mindsnap, try <nowiki>[CURIOUSBEAST]</nowiki>. It's not anywhere in the default raws, but it's in the program text so it may be recognised. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 17:38, 12 December 2007 (EST)

== Snatchers / pedophiles ==

Why not just leave it as <s>pedophiles</s> "snatchers"? I think it's funny. --[[User:Peristarkawan|Peristarkawan]] 13:55, 12 December 2007 (EST)

:Why not deal with it as "civilized" people? I mean have some sort of a voting with an argumented discussion on the talk page before a wiki admin say his final word. Those who reverted the change were at least stating something in the summary field. I myself don't think that this bit of humor is appropriate to this article and the user who did it again and again seems to be a vandal for me.--[[User:Another|Another]] 15:12, 12 December 2007 (EST)
::Whatever you do or say, pedophiles are no laughing matter. What's wrong with you [[User:Peristarkawan|Peristarkawan]]? >:( --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 15:28, 12 December 2007 (EST)
:::There are about 30 episodes of Family Guy that would beg to differ. However this turns out, please stop the edit war. --[[User:Peristarkawan|Peristarkawan]] 15:51, 12 December 2007 (EST)
::::I'm very confident that if it continue, it will result in the ban of [[User:Billdauterive|Billdauterive]]. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 15:54, 12 December 2007 (EST)
:I support the word "snatcher" over "pedophile", for three reasons. First, it's more likely to be immediately understood by all wiki readers. Second, we're not talking same-species kiddy snatchers here - these are goblins, and goblins enslave and/or eat dwarf children. Third, why suggest nastiness and smut (as though dwarven kids ''a la carte'' wasn't horrid enough!) in a wiki without firm grounds? [[User:Fedor|Fedor]] 16:07, 12 December 2007 (EST)
::I wasn't suggesting removing the word "snatcher" at all. You've got to agree that it seems a bit peculiar that the snatchers ''only'' target children. Why is it that murderous carp are funny but pedophile goblins are sick? Seems like a double standard to me. --[[User:Peristarkawan|Peristarkawan]] 16:27, 12 December 2007 (EST)
:::Nothing strange at all about targetting only children. They're easier to catch, easier for goblins (who are no great size themselves) to carry, can't resist as well, are much more tender when cooked, and can be permanently enslaved more easily. There's just flat-out no reason to bother with any mention of pedophilia. --[[User:Fedor|Fedor]]
:::''Why is it that murderous carp are funny but pedophile <s>goblins</s> are sick?'': Because it's the truth. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 16:42, 12 December 2007 (EST)
::::Meh. As long as it stays fantasy I don't have a problem with them. Much. I don't subscribe to the notion of thoughtcrime. It's the pederasts, who act on the urge, that are the criminals. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 17:46, 12 December 2007 (EST)
:::::For the record, it's not just boys that get molested, girls do too. --Gotthard 17:52, 12 December 2007 (EST)
::::::Well, if I keep with the current "for the record" trend, I have to say that I would have no problem with having goblin pedophiles in game. It's a simulation afterall. Thing is, the current discussion is related to the article page, which is used in real life by humans and not dwarves. There is also no proof at all that goblin snatchers are pedophile, so not only it is a false entry but, as I said, since it's read by real life humans then the comment can also be considered offensive. Which is my case, I do find it offensive and there's no good reason to justify it. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 18:10, 12 December 2007 (EST)

:::::: Certainly. I know that. Pederasty is the closest word we have, though. Statutory rape, while applicable, is a broader term. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 18:46, 12 December 2007 (EST)

::::::The only reason I made the distinction is that girls are far more likely to suffer long term damage from sexual abuse. Pederasty refers only to males. Anyway, [[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] I don't think the term should be in the article unless for some reason it is in the game. My 'for the record' comment was more off topic on the definition of the word than an attack. [[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] and I seem to be on the same page anyway. --Gotthard 19:12, 12 December 2007 (EST)
:::::::A through search of the games strings turns up no occurances of '''pedo''', '''pede''', or '''rape'''. '''Sex''' occurs only in the word '''''sex'''tuplets'', and in the programming term ''RegisterClas'''sEx'''''. For what that's worth. I will add my personal opinion that I also think it doesn't belong in the article. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 20:03, 12 December 2007 (EST)
::::::::To be fair, 'rape' is a word in the in-game goblin language, and often appears as a surname, or civilization name. I do agree that this oughtn't be in the article, though; I suspect that children are probably taken for eating, not raping. —[[User:Captain Epix|Captain Epix]] 22:51, 12 December 2007 (EST)
:::Besides, murderous carp aren't real to life the way pedophilia is. A large zombie fish attacking a mythological creature is a bit more abstract than the a pedophile (traditionally viewed as human) molesting a small child. Frankly, I like the lack of swearing and general offensiveness of the wiki, it's a nice change compared to most of the internet. Why spoil that for the ones that like it, for information that is unclear and doesn't help understanding the article? --Gotthard 17:50, 12 December 2007 (EST)
:A thought: assume, arguendo, that the children are stolen for such a purpose. This implies not only rape and statutory rape, but also sex outside one's species. (Not quite bestiality, but similar. We don't have a word for sex with a sapient that is not of one's own species.) And since there are many snatchers, this must be sanctioned by goblin society. How warped they must be! Comments? —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 18:54, 12 December 2007 (EST)
::''We don't have a word for sex with a sapient that is not of one's own species.'' Isn't that more or less what the word yiffing means? --[[User:Peristarkawan|Peristarkawan]] 19:19, 12 December 2007 (EST)
:::Point. Though I think it hasn't entered the mainstream. Another one: in the ''Ringworld'' series, there's the concept of 'rishathra', ceremonial inter-species (though all descended from homo erectus) sex for the purpose of sealing trade agreements and alliances. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 19:53, 12 December 2007 (EST)
::::Mainstream? Crossbreeding would be a scientific term. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 12:01, 25 February 2008 (EST)
'''I find it surprising that such a large debate has resulted [[User_talk:Billdauterive|from the actions of an obvious vandal.]]''' --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 20:04, 12 December 2007 (EST)
:Yeah, that comment's not scoring him any points. Although at least he appears to have stopped editing the page. --[[User:Peristarkawan|Peristarkawan]] 21:05, 12 December 2007 (EST)
:It's not like I like to talk about those things, but I thought it was important to have a discussion against the idea of having pedophilia added to a page when it's unneeded... Read above. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 23:18, 12 December 2007 (EST)
::I don't believe there was a chance it ''would'' be added, discussion or no. At best it was a crude, immature attempt at humor. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 06:17, 13 December 2007 (EST)
:::[[User:Peristarkawan|Peristarkawan]] started this discussion, and I've taken his first comment as a suggestion to consider it. It was enough for me. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 22:04, 13 December 2007 (EST)

== Goblin Siege ==

it´s the year 1059 and I stillwaiting for a goblin siege. the kitnappers are comming since 2 years already...

I have the newest verison (0.27.169.33g)
so what´s wrong?
:Are you sure goblins have access to your fortress? You should be able to see that on the embark screen. If goblins used to raid you all the time (like me) and you don't see them at all since the new version (like me), goblin sieges might be broken again... (I'm very happy to have been able to play almost two years now without invasions... I now have almost double amount of dwarves and I can trade now!) --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 07:47, 27 December 2007 (EST)

::sorry. that waqs just a bad timing. (10 minutes later the goblins came. late but now they are here)
::bad luck ^^;
::by the way...since the first dig in the mountain I am waiting for the goblins (I have over 400 traps) and a bridge-system with fortifications...so it was a little bit boring without goblins. no matter >:D
::thank you for your help!
:::No problems... I've seen so many people complaining about the lack of gobling sieges since 33g that I was wondering myself if they were broken or not. They're supposed to attack you now instead of sitting on the edge of the map, can you confirm that? --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 08:42, 27 December 2007 (EST)

::::of course they do. but they came in where no connection was (okok...it was a bridge)
::::so I had to dig a new way...and yes they are very agressive! I wondered why the goblin force came exacly at the beginning of 1060...coincidence?
:::::Depends if you're playing a game from a fortress ported from lower versions like me or not. Hard to say when you're playing an old game and didn't start the fortress on a world generated on the same version. It could be anything that Toady ajusted and you're simply over a certain limit by far and it takes a while before they raid you again... From that point on, it's only speculation unless some specific corrolations can be made. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 09:17, 27 December 2007 (EST)

::::::it´s an old version generated world.

== add smth about timing? ==

just like kobolds with the elves, the goblins seem to prefer arriving with the humans. Comments? Any guesses on percentage distribution?

:I believe there's an event chance when something like caravan appears. Once i had a goblin squad spawn along with human caravan, after a reload, @same place&time it didn't happen. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 12:05, 25 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Goblin

2008-02-25T17:01:27Z

Digger:

40d:Indecisive's illustrated fortress mode tutorial

2008-02-24T23:35:23Z

Digger: /* Building a Well */

''This tutorial was originally posted on the Something Awful Forums [http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2669677&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=45#post335365645] [http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2669677&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=45#post335365665]''

This post is not going to be an expansive walkthrough of everything the game has to offer, it is just intended to demonstrate how to get started and using the interface. I'll try to cover as much as I can but I've only played it myself for a day before I started writing this. My game crashed irreversibly at about the one year mark, and I didn't get to cover more advanced stuff like [[magma]] [[workshop]]s, [[machine]]s, or [[irrigation]] methods, but hopefully it is enough to get you started.

== Starting the game ==

=== Generating Your World ===

[[Image:dft000.png|thumb|left|The title screen]]

If this is your first time running the game, the only options will be Create New World and Quit. Let's go ahead and create a new world! The next screen is the option screen for [[World generation|creating the world]]. You can choose a name for the world and even choose a seed number if you like, that will be used to generate the world. Screw that though, I'm going to hit ENTER to create a random one!

 

[[Image:dft001.png|thumb|left|The world generation screen]]

The world generation can take a while, depending on your computer speed. I've got a pretty new machine and it took 5 minutes. During this time it randomly generates terrain, rivers, vegetation and wildlife for an entire miniature world, and over 1000 years of 'history' for the civilizations living in it. Once it's done it takes you back to the title screen, where you can choose to Start Playing. There will be several options there, Dwarf Fortress, Adventurer, or Legends. Dwarf Fortress is what we'll be playing, obviously.

=== Choosing a Location and Embarking ===

[[Image:dft002.png|thumb|left|Choosing a location]]

Now we get to choose our starting location. I've chosen a relatively 'safe' starting position for this demonstration to try and show off as many bases as possible. There's a brook for a permanent water supply, forests for wood and plant harvesting, and a magma source, because otherwise you need obscene amounts of wood to burn to make charcoal to do any forging. There is a wide variety of spots to choose from, but if you are new to the game, at the very least you will want to make sure your location has water and trees. 'Heavily Forested' means you'll have a huge number of trees to work with.

Also, if the location has more than one Biome (basically, a biome consists of the information on the right-hand side of the screen; rock types, amount of vegetation, temperature, etc), you can push F1/F2/F3 etc.. to display each biome's area and information. For this area, basically the mountains are unforested with slightly different rocks, the Forest is the information already displayed. Each biome will usually have it's own wildlife also, but that isn't shown on these screens. The mountain area wound up having a bunch of mountain goats, I didn't really see much from the forest side other than a couple raccoons.

[[Image:dft003.png|thumb|left|Choosing a location: neighbors]]

[[Image:dft004.png|thumb|left|Choosing a location: relative elevation]]

[[Image:dft006.png|thumb|left|Choosing a location: cliff indication]]

If you press Tab from the area select screen it shows other information displays about the area, such as Elevation, Nearby Civilizations, and Cliffyness. You can also choose which particular dwarven civilization you want to come from.

The next choice you are given is to Play Now! or 'prepare for the journey carefully'. That allows you to customize your dwarves starting skills and choose what equipment you want to bring. That's beyond the scope of this tutorial though, let's just jump into the game. (More information on preparing carefully can be had [[Starting_builds#Starting_Builds|here]].) Thus begins the fortress Lanirmosus, "Slyrooms".

 

=== The Game Screen ===

[[Image:dft007.png|thumb|left|The game screen]]

Now, the introduction of the game screen! It starts out with all the options expanded. The actual game window is the very left, showing our dwarves and various tame animals surrounding the starting wagon. Generally you start off in the center of the area you selected to start in.

The middle window is a helpful display of hotkeys. As you select hotkeys it changes to display the options available by using it. This is a very important window to keep open at all times until you know your way around the menus.

The right pane displays the full map of the settled region. The cyan area is open space (because we are about halfway up the mountain), the green/blue area is the level we are currently on (with the X showing where the screen is centered), and the grey stuff is the mountain areas that are higher than us.

You can change which windows are displayed using the {{k|Tab}} key, which cycles through various combinations of game screen and the other two windows. If you disable the hotkey window, it will automatically open itself when you choose a menu item so you can see what you are doing, but the area map will stay closed unless you open it up yourself.

Another key to get familiar with is {{k|Space}}. This key cancels, backs up to a previous screen, and pauses the game. You'll know the game is paused by the presence of an indicator in the top left corner of the screen.

At the very right of the screen is one of the new interface features, the altitude bar. The number in the bottom right indicates the absolute elevation that you are located at, relative to the 'bottom' of the world. We are currently at 149, which isn't that high, all things considered; if I remember correctly, someone said sea level is at 100, and the scale goes up to 250 or so. Each section of the map goes to roughly plus or minus 17 z-levels, for a total of 35.

The number at the top is where the screen is relative to the 'surface' of where your cursor is. We are currently looking at the surface, so it shows zero. If we look higher it would change to a positive number in green, when we look lower it changes to a negative, red number. The bar itself is a more graphical display of this, where the bright cyan indicates our current location, the brown indicates underground levels, and the dark cyan shows the sky levels. Let's scroll up a z-level by pushing the {{k|<}} key. {{k|>}} will send your view down one level.

[[Image:dft008.png|thumb|left|The same location, one elevation up]]

Now, looking at the bar again, you will notice that rather than the bright cyan marker changing location, the sky/earth tiles scrolled downwards instead. This is because there are more z-axis levels than can be displayed on the bar. Also, the relative elevation number at the top changed to a +1, showing that we are one level above the ground. The left-most window has changed; this is what it looks like when you are one level above ground. Regular 'ground' tiles become dots, and trees become those green blocks you see there. The down-arrows on the right side indicate a down-ramp, corresponding to the up-ramp in the first screenshot.

Also worth noting is that the larger map on the right has changed, now much of what was previously 'mountain' is now shown as a flat plain with forest and some small lakes. This isn't a terribly steep mountain.

 

=== Looking Around ===

[[Image:dft126.png|thumb|left|Using the {{k|k}} key to determine the depth of water]]

Now, I'll introduce a very important key, {{k|k}}. This allows you to 'loo{{k|k}} around', which you will use to find out information about everything in the game. Here I've used it to display some [[water]]. Normally water will just look like waves. I've set an option that shows water depth instead of the waves, because it makes it easier to see at a glance whether you are dealing with drowning-type-water, or wet-ankles-type-water. To change that option you need to edit the init.ini file in the data\init\ folder. 7 is the maximum depth, so you can safely assume anything in this square would drown, unless it can swim upwards (or breathe water). You can move the cursor anywhere on the screen to find out information on what is in that particular tile. Those pretty blue stars just below the cursor for example represent 'Damp Rough-hewn Lace Agate Cluster', which you could mine in hopes of getting some valuable gems. Of course, mining it would release the water in that pond, so you'd have a heck of a time actually getting the gems without draining the water.

Also shown, below the list of items occupying the tile, are indicators for 'Outside', 'Light', and 'Above Ground'. These indicators give you the properties of the tile. There are various things that care about these properties, such as farming. Some plants can only be grown indoors, and some need to be outdoors in the sunlight. Usually all three will be similar, as they are somewhat related but you can have 'inside' areas that are light in certain conditions.

If there were a creature or item on this tile, we could highlight it and hit Enter to get more information on it. Sometimes there's useful information there, sometimes there's not; experiment with it a bit on different things.

 

=== Unit Viewing and Dwarf Skills ===

Next let's check out our dwarves. The {{k|v}}iew command allows you to view any unit, be it dwarf, elephant, or goblin. You can {{k|v}}iew pretty much any dwarf or non-dwarf creature worth caring about. Since I didn't choose what I'll be starting with, let's see what the random dwarf generator set me up with.

[[Image:dft009.png|thumb|left]]

Well, that's an 'interesting' array of skills. Note for the future: Never choose 'Play Now!', or you will get ridiculous skills like this. So this dwarf has way more skills than he'll be using, and I didn't get started with any basic farmers so I'm going to designate this fellow as a farmer. To do so I hit 'p' for {{k|p}}references.

 

[[Image:dft010.png|thumb|left|A dwarf's preference screen.]]

This screen is where you start telling this dwarf what his role is. {{k|l}}abor lets you set what jobs he will perform, {{k|e}} lets you assign trained dogs to follow him, and you can tell him what type of armor / weapon to wear through {{k|s}}oldiering. {{k|A}}ctivating him will draft him into the military or relieve him if he's already been recruited.

 

[[Image:dft011.png|thumb|left|The labor preferences screen.]]

Accessing {{k|l}}abor brings up a list of all the possible job functions are performed in the game. The dark-grey ones are disabled on this dwarf, the white ones are enabled, and the one highlighted green is the one currently selected by the cursor. In these types of menus, the {{k|+}} and {{k|-}} keys are used to scroll up and down, and {{k|/}} and {{k|*}} scroll by a full page. The interface has changed a bit since the last version, there used to be up/down arrows on the right-side of the window to indicate that you there were more choices that didn't fit on the screen. Maybe those will be added back later, but for now you'll have to trust me. There are a total of 60 job items. I won't cover them all now, so I'll just let you know I set him up with Farming (fields), Milling, Brewing, Cooking, Butchery, Plant Gathering, Plant Processing, and the hauling jobs. Many of those jobs aren't going to be used at this point, but better to set him up now and then later on when there are more dwarves I can start specializing them.

Also you may have noticed that when we went in the preferences menu a new option appeared, {{k|z}} for View Profile. This lets you get more specific information on the dwarf, as well as customize his job title and give him a nickname.

 

[[Image:dft012.png|thumb|left]]

Here we can see that he owns 14 items, which is probably all clothing items at this point. Hitting {{k|Enter}} takes us to the thoughts and preferences menu.

 

[[Image:dft013.png|thumb|left]]

The first line tells you about mood and recent events that have affected it. Since we have just started, there aren't any recent events, and he's happy to have arrived at his new home. The second section shows his likes, and the third section, which is new to this version, lists his personality. All of this information is unique to each dwarf, and you'll probably ignore most of it, but it is flavorful. The line across the top also shows their full name and the 'translated' version, as well as their job title. Now that we are done here, I'll hit the Space bar to exit. There are two other options each dwarf has; {{k|i}}nventory and {{k|w}}ounds. Those don't concern us at the moment really - each dwarf starts out fully clothed and unwounded.

 

With that finished, I'll go ahead and check out the other dwarves:

* A [[Miner]]. Well I didn't get screwed there, at least.
* A combination [[Jeweler]] / [[Craftsdwarf]]. Not something I would have chosen to start with, but I guess he can work on making some trade goods for the autumn caravan.
* A [[Carpenter]] / [[Bowyer]]. Carpenter is useful, as beds will need to be made, as well as buckets, bins, and other various wood products. I'll give him an axe so he can [[chop down trees]] also.
* A [[Mason]] / [[Mechanic]]. Also useful. I'd prefer to have Mason and Mechanic separate, but there's only 7 dwarves to start with so inevitably you have to either overlap some jobs, or not have them at all.
* A [[Fisherdwarf]]. Fishing wasn't incredibly useful in the previous version, and I don't think it's much improved here. This guy is going to become a Miner, since I have an extra pick.
* A [[Fish cleaner]] / [[Butcher]] / [[Tanner]] / [[Weaver]] / [[Clothier]] / [[Leatherworker]]. You couldn't put a pile of more useless starting jobs together if you tried. This guy is going to get stuck doing all the trivial jobs nobody else has time for.

We also started out with 1 musk ox, 1 donkey, 2 untrained dogs, 2 cats, 2 axes, 2 picks, an anvil, and several barrels of various food, booze, and seeds. Pretty much the same load you'd get if you don't change anything if you choose to manually set up your starting load.

Now, let's get to work! The first step will be tearing down the wagon we start with. Use {{k|q}}uery, which the menu shows as 'Set Building Tasks/Preferences'.

[[Image:dft016.png|thumb|left]]

With the {{k|q}}uery tool, highlight the wagon. Then we hit {{k|x}} to label the building for removal. Why remove it? For one, the wagon is completely useless - it doesn't even have wheels! You can't move it even if you want to. Don't ask how they got it here. But removing it gives us three extra [[tower-cap]] logs.

 

[[Image:dft017.png|thumb|left]]

Now that it's designated for removal, it will show what 'job' a dwarf needs to have to destroy it, in this case [[Carpentry]]. So when a Carpenter has time he'll wander over and remove the building. At this stage in the game it's pretty much instant, since nobody's doing anything, but later on you'll have to wait a bit for a dwarf to initiate the orders you give them.

 

=== Positioning Your Fortress ===

Now for the next important point for starting out - choosing a fort location. Previously this was relatively simple, as there was just a big mountain face and you just picked a spot and started digging, but now there is landscape to consider. You aren't guaranteed to be near everything you want. So, let's look around.

When choosing a site, I chose this location because it had two main [[region features|features]]: a [[river]], and [[magma]]. So let's find those, first.

[[Image:dft018.png|thumb|left|A river on our map.]]

Three levels below our starting point and far to the southwest, we find the river. This is constantly fed from the south, so it won't be running out of water, unlike the other lakes in the area which we can potentially drain to nothing. At some point we'll want to divert some of this sweet sweet liquid into our fort, so dwarves don't need to go wandering outside to get some, but it's not tremendously important to start right next to it. More importantly, I think it's likely that caravans will be arriving from the south, so I will be setting up an entrance down there.

 

[[Image:dft019.png|thumb|left|The volcano on our map.]]

The lava, conveniently, is on the same level as the river. Less conveniently, it is far to the northeast. However, we don't actually need to be located near the lava, we just need to be able to channel some to our forge location, so it's not a huge deal. An interesting thing to note, is there is actually a large stone overhang over the lava crater:

[[Image:dft020.png|thumb|left|The overhang above the lava...]]

This screenshot is one level above the lava crater. You can see the red dots slightly below the wall which shows where the northeast corner pokes out from under the overhang. Yes, you could build part of your fort partially over the lava. I do not advise this, although I suppose it could make an interesting jail area.

 

[[Image:dft021.png|thumb|left|...and the plateau above '''that'''.]]

One level above that is this wooded plateau. You could push someone over the edge there and they'd fall into the lava. Awesome.

 

[[Image:dft022.png|thumb|left|Fire imps kicking around in the lava.]]

Four levels below the surface of the lava we can see some [[fire imp|fire imps]] in their native habitat. There are also a few [[magma man|magma men]] even deeper, just imagine a bright red 'M' and that's all there is to see really. These creatures are the primary reasons to avoid lava, as magma men can destroy buildings and doors, and all fire creatures have the dangerous ability to start fires in your fortress, which can wreak havoc and plunge a fortress into chaos if it isn't contained. I don't think it's been tested but as far as I know dwarves still aren't programmed to recognize fire, so they will happily carry around burning items as if nothing is wrong and unknowingly spread it. Fortunately, there are options to dispose of or ignore individual items now, so it should be a more avoidable catastrophe.

After some debate, I've decided to make the main entrance to my fortress just northeast of the river, in an alcove. The path to the edge of the map is relatively short, and the entire area is surrounded by a sheer cliff two levels high, so it should be relatively safe from disruption from wildlife elsewhere on the map. Hopefully caravans will arrive from this direction; I have no way of really knowing at this point.

To get there however, I'm going to have to start digging from the top. I don't want to build a staircase up the mountain, as that would destroy the security of having the entrance surrounded by cliffs. So what I will do, is go a few levels up and dig straight down to the river level, then dig south to the entrance.

[[Image:dft023.png|thumb|left|Finding a good place for our stairs.]]

I'll start here, on the same level as my dwarves, and roughly halfway between the the wagon and the 'entrance'.

 

=== Digging time! ===

To start digging, hit {{k|d}} for Designations.

[[Image:dft024.png|thumb|left|Designating the location for our stairway. Before...]]

What we want to build here is a downward stairway. You can click it if you want, otherwise hit {{k|j}} to select the option. Then you can place it by clicking where you want the staircase to be. Alternatively you can position the cursor and push {{k|Enter}} twice to designate the location; this is actually easier sometimes, especially if you want to dig the same location on multiple floors, like we will be doing momentarily.

 

[[Image:dft025.png|thumb|left|...and after.]]

Here is the designated staircase location. It shows up as a black '>' symbol surrounded by brown, indicating that it still needs to be dug. Once I unpause, one of the miners will rush over and dig it out.

 

[[Image:dft026.png|thumb|left|Designated trees become highlighted, and blink when a dwarf is going to chop it down.]]

I've also designated some nearby trees for removal, to make a flat area to make some workshops on. Now that the stairway has been dug out, it shows up as a grey '>' symbol, which represents a down-stairway. Not coincidentally, it's the same symbol used to move the display one level down. So, let's check it out!

 

[[Image:dft027.png|thumb|left|The level below a freshly dug stairway.]]

And here we can see, right below the stair, is rock! To connect the two levels, we now have to dig out an upwards stairway on that spot, directly below the downward stairway. Use the {{k|d}}esignate hotkey, then dig an {{k|u}}pwards stairway. Don't worry, there will not be a quiz on the hotkeys, but getting acquainted will help you in future fortress building! You don't have to do this in two separate steps, I just did it this way to illustrate what happens if you dig a downward stairway without also digging an upward stairway below it.

 

[[Image:dft028.png|thumb|left|Designating an up stairway.]]

Again we wait for our trusty miner to arrive on the scene.

 

[[Image:dft029.png|thumb|left|The walls around the stairway are now available for digging.]]

And now we have an upper entrance to our fortress. Now I'll want a room dug out using {{k|d}}esignate and 'd' again to {{k|d}}ig/mine the rock on the same level. Everything under the designate menu can be done in two ways: Either select each square individually with the mouse (you can also click-drag to keep selecting tiles, to be precise), or you can hit Enter once to select a corner, then use the arrow keys to move to another location and hit Enter again. This will select a rectangle defined by the two corners you selected. I'm going to build a 5x5 room here.

 

[[Image:dft030.png|thumb|left|Our 5x5 entrance hall.]]

Rather than just dig straight down to the level I want to be at, I am going to set up this entrance room with an array of traps to kill any potential invaders. Also of note, the floor of this room is muddy, indicating that farming would be possible here without messing with an irrigation system. I'll dig out a separate room for farming, because you don't want to have a farm in a high-traffic room like this one. Also shown, the insides of the two small pools you can see from above-ground.

 

[[Image:dft031.png|thumb|left]]

Below that level I have built a combination up-and-down stairway, which is represented by the 'X' symbol, which is rather like a combination of '>' and '<'. Obvious perhaps, but little details like this can make it easier to remember what symbols mean.

 

[[Image:dft033.png|thumb|left]]

Now I've reached the 'ground floor', the same level as the river, so I'll start digging out a wide hallway. This will likely be an active floor so wide hallways are necessary to keep traffic moving at a good pace. When dwarves have to pass over each other in a single-tile wide hallway, one of them has to stop to let the other one pass, which slows down progress. Multiply that by 10 once you have a bustling fortress, and it becomes a significant problem.

 

=== Planting Your Farm ===

[[Image:dft034.png|thumb|left]]

Back on the top floor, my farm-room has been dug out. To start farming, we need to build a farm plot. 'b' is the key to create a building, and even though no materials are used, a farm plot counts as a building, since products are created from it.

 

[[Image:dft035.png|thumb|left]]

This is the build menu, which lists the various buildings and building-like objects. Furniture counts as buildings for some reason, and floodgates, coffins, roads, wells, and many other objects are built from here also. {{k|p}} lets us build a [[farm]] plot.

 

[[Image:dft036.png|thumb|left]]

Farms can be resized as you desire using the hotkeys shown. {{k|u}} {{k|m}} {{k|k}} {{k|h}} are the common 'resize' keys used whenever you have the option to resize something in the game. Here I have fitted the farm plot to the room.

 

[[Image:dft037.png|thumb|left]]

I've hit {{k|q}} to take a look at the building again. Now the farm is waiting for construction, the same as any other building, by someone with the appropriate job. It displays 'Construction inactive' because nobody has yet decided that they want to come do this. Note, you can also choose to suspend a building's construction if you don't want it to actually be built yet, or you can use 'x' to completely remove the building designation before it is even built.

 

[[Image:dft038.png|thumb|left]]

Now that the farm is built, we need to choose what to plant. Using the {{k|q}} menu again gives us new options now that it is ready for action. Currently the season is still Spring, so it automatically highlights that season for you. We only started with Plump Helmet and Pig Tail seeds, so I'll start off by planting the Plump Helmets. They are like big mushrooms basically, and are a commonly used food as they are easy to grow, and can be eaten immediately once ripe, which returns a new seed. They can also be cooked or brewed into wine, however cooking them destroys the seed so cooking them is not advised. I'll go ahead and set up plump helmet farming for the rest of the year also. One useful change is that you can now continue farming through winter, in the previous version you could not. Also, different crops can be planted in different seasons. Plump Helmet is the only one I've seen so far that can be planted year-round. Above-ground farms will have different planting options.

There are a few other options for farming also, such as fertilizing the soil. Fertilizing uses [[Potash]], which is made by burning wood into [[ash]] and then processing it at an [[Ashery]] workshop. It increases the output of the soil, but it also increases the time it takes to plant, so it's generally a wash. It could be useful if you absolutely need the most possible food out of a little amount of seeds / planting space, but otherwise ignorable. The {{k|z}} option, 'Fallow' means to leave the soil unused for the season. Typically not used, but if you are overflowing with food, that's how you stop production.

[[Image:dft100.png|thumb|left]]

You can also get seeds and food by harvesting wild plants. This uses the [[Herbalism]] job, and provides a chance to gather additional types of food that aren't available otherwise. One thing to be aware of is that you will not find cave-dwelling plants above-ground, so I won't be pulling any Plump Helmets above ground. There is a separate group of plants available for above-ground farming, such as [[Prickle berry]]. These plants need light to grow so you'll probably have to grow them above ground.

 

=== Workshops ===

[[Image:dft042.png|thumb|left]]

Outside the fortress I've set up a few temporary workshops so my other dwarves can quit slacking off. To get this menu, {{k|b}}uild a {{k|w}}orkshop. You can see the (1) next to Carpenter's Workshop, because I built one. This feature allows you to easily see how many workshops are built. It's less helpful for Craftsdwarf's Workshop, whose name is too long and pushes the number off the side.

 

[[Image:dft039.png|thumb|left]]

The Mechanics shop builds one thing and one thing only - [[mechanism|mechanisms]]. Lots and lots of mechanisms. You need a mechanism for every individual trap you make. You need multiple mechanisms to hook a lever up to a door, bridge, floodgate, or other lever-operated device. Mechanisms are also used to make gear and axle machines, which can be used to power millstones and other devices.

Here you can see I have a bunch of mechanisms queued up, waiting to be built. the green 'A' by the top one indicates that the task is Active and being worked on by the dwarf standing in the shop. If we {{k|s}}uspend a job, it will keep it in the queue but the job will not be worked on. The dwarf will then skip that job and move on to the next one in the queue. {{k|r}} will set the job on repeat, meaning once it is complete it will add that job back to the queue instead of deleting it. This is useful if you want a ton of something made. You can {{k|p}}romote a job which raises it in the queue, in case you want that item finished before others. Of course, {{k|x}} will still mark the building for destruction. Also of note is option {{k|P}}, which you can use to designate which dwarves will be allowed to use the shop. If you do not designate anyone specifically, all dwarves with the appropriate job enabled will be able to use it. Last but not least, {{k|a}} allows you to add a job to the queue.

 

[[Image:dft040.png|thumb|left]]

This is the add-job menu for the Craftsdwarves workshop. A wide variety of mostly-useless items are made here, mostly for trading purposes. Note that the 'rock' and 'wood' options are not to make rocks/wood, but to make crafts from rocks or wood. You can choose generic 'crafts', or you can choose to make mugs, instruments, or toys also. What craft/instrument/toy is created is random, it's all useless anyway. The only items from this shop that are useful are rock short swords, bolts, and a few bone/shell armor pieces that can be made.

 

[[Image:dft041.png|thumb|left]]

The carpenter shop makes most wooden items. The only item in this shop that is wood-only is the bed, and it's one of the more important items. Every dwarf needs a place to sleep eventually, so you'll wind up making quite a few. Other useful items include Animal Traps, which allow you to capture vermin, as well as bins, barrels, and buckets. Buckets are used to move water, barrels are used to store food and drink, and bins serve as storage for pretty much all other products other than furniture and raw stone/ore. Bins greatly reduce the amount of floor space needed for store-rooms. Barrels perform a similar function for food, and are required for making liquor. Barrels have the additional benefit of preserving food outside of storage. Any food not in a stockpile or in a barrel will decay rapidly. Also, any food that gets walked over, even if it is in a stockpile, will have it's quality lowered unless it is in a barrel.

There are a variety of other wood products that can be made, but the furniture is usually made out of stone instead (as you will generally have stone lying around all over your fortress making it look ugly otherwise), and shields and trap components are better made out of metal. Of course, now there is the possibility of rock-less maps apparently, so wood may be more widely used in that type of fort.

=== Building Traps ===

[[Image:dft043.png|thumb|left]]

As I said earlier, I'm going to fill this entry-way with traps to stop potential invaders. To do I choose Traps/Levers from the build menu ({{k|T}}).

 

[[Image:dft044.png|thumb|left]]

Here are the different types of traps we can make. Well, Levers and Pressure Plates aren't traps by themselves, but they can be key components of traps. I'll make stone-fall traps, as the ingredients are readily available, just mechanisms and rocks!

 

[[Image:dft045.png|thumb|left]]

Once you've chosen where to put the trap, it will let you choose which mechanism to use in making the trap. You can't choose which rock, because it makes absolutely no difference. It doesn't really matter which mechanism is used either, but if you really want to you can look at every individual mechanism available to be used by pushing {{k|x}}. As you can see in the 'Num' column though, I only have one mechanism available anyway, since the others are already marked for use in other traps. (If you are curious, the display says '0/1' because zero is the number of mechanisms I currently have allocated to this individual trap, and 1 is the total number of 'Shale mechanisms' available. Traps generally only need one mechanism, but weapon traps for example can be composed of multiple weapons.) Dist shows the distance in tiles to the closest available mechanism. It will automatically choose the closest available mechanism, which is a god-send. In the previous version of the game, there was no combined option, and there was no distance display. You were just given a list of all mechanisms in the fortress and picked one and hoped for the best.

=== Stockpiles ===

[[Image:dft047.png|thumb|left]]

Now, to keep items stored and organized, you often want to build a stockpile for them. Otherwise your dwarves will just leave junk lying around everywhere, cluttering up the fort. To designate a stockpile, use the {{k|p}} hotkey, and you get this window. I want to designate a wood stockpile near my carpenter's shop, so he doesn't have to walk as far to get materials. So I'll choose {{k|w}} for wood, then choose a spot and hit {{k|Enter}} to begin the designation.

 

[[Image:dft048.png|thumb|left]]

You can see the bright green '+' that indicates the first spot I marked just below the carpenter's shop. Then, moving the cursor to the other corner, hit 'Enter' again, and a rectangle corresponding to those two corners will be designated as a wood stockpile. Any free dwarf with the 'Wood Hauling' job enabled will go grab some wood and drag it to this stockpile. If you want to remove a stockpile, do the same process, but use {{k|x}} instead of the stockpile letter, and designate the area to be removed. You can remove more than one stockpile at once.

[[Image:dft051.png|thumb|left]]

Empty stockpiles are represented by dark grey '=' symbols.

[[Image:dft052.png|thumb|left]]

Next I want a more specific stockpile - a room for seeds for the farmers, so they don't have to walk as far when planting. To set the stockpile for only seeds, first hit {{k|q}} to highlight the stockpile, the same way as any other building.

[[Image:dft053.png|thumb|left]]

Then hit {{k|s}} to bring up the stockpile settings. Under the food category are a number of other categories, with specific food items under those. You can manually select or de-select each individual food item if you so desire by highlighting the item and hitting {{k|Enter}}, but I'll just block out the entire categories by hitting {{k|f}}, as shown, to 'forbid' the storage of that item in this stockpile. Also, notice the 'prepared item' option in the lower-right. Prepared food is any food that has been made by cooks in the Kitchen workshop.

Now the only item stored here is seeds. The 'Additional items' option listed at the bottom is highlighted also; from there you can choose to allow or forbid the general categories 'plant/animal' or 'non-plant/animal'. You can make stockpiles as general or as specific as you want; you can make a stockpile that only holds masterwork platinum coffins and well-crafted leather thongs if you want.

One final note to make about custom stockpiles, is that if you want something stored in a certain location, you should disable storage for that item in other stockpiles. In my seeds example, I already have a food stockpile setup elsewhere, so I will disable seeds in that stockpile so that they will get moved to the new, designated seed location.

 

=== Trade Depots and Wagon Accessibility ===

[[Image:dft054.png|thumb|left]]

Back on the bottom floor, the entrance has been dug out and a Trade Depot constructed. Trade Depots are usually the first buildings you'll make that require more than one material - it takes three to make one. Like most buildings they can be made from raw rock, cut stone blocks, logs, or metal bars. There's little reason to build one from anything but regular rock though, the main difference is the color. This one was made from dark stone.

Now, let's make sure our Depot is wagon-accessible by using the {{k|D}} hotkey.

 

[[Image:dft056.png|thumb|left]]

Elven caravans are carried by mule and don't need any special pathway. Dwarven caravans are carried by mule and horse drawn wagons. Human caravans come with wagons carrying many more goods than other caravans. These wagons need a smooth three-wide path to your Depot. A three-tile wide road connecting to the edge of the screen is not needed, and I'm not sure if creating one will automatically cause the human caravan to arrive there. Will update this when I find out! We'll work on building a road a bit later on, we don't need to worry about the human caravan arriving until next spring at the earliest, and it's still mid-spring only!

 

[[Image:dft055.png|thumb|left]]

Just north of the depot I have some bored dwarves smoothing the passageway. Designating an area to be smoothed is done the same way as mining, except you designate floor tiles and exposed walls instead of rock to be dug. Floors that are marked to be smoothed show as large flashing plus signs, while walls show as flashing double-plus signs. Smoothed floors display as '+', while smoothed walls display as double-bars traveling along the wall. The end of a smoothed wall usually shows up as an 'O'.

 

[[Image:dft062.png|thumb|left]]

I was digging out some rooms for food storage, a dining hall, and a barracks when I ran into some damp walls. This happens when your miners get close to an underground water source. It's a warning to stop digging in that direction unless you want to potentially release a flood into your fortress. You will get a similar notification when digging too close to lava, except that is much more fatal usually. In this case, I was able to dig out the final two squares of my food storage room without consequence. From looking at the map of the other floors, there is very little space that water could be hidden, so I judged the risk to be low enough to take.

 

=== Walls, Stairs and Roads ===

[[Image:dft066.png|thumb|left]]

While digging out this circular dining room, I accidentally dug out an extra square, ruining the pixelated circularity! This would have been a permanent mistake in the previous version, but now we can re-build walls!

 

[[Image:dft067.png|thumb|left]]

To do so, open the {{k|b}}uild menu and choose the 'Wall/Floor/Stairs' option, then choose Wall and hit {{k|Enter}}.

 

[[Image:dft068.png|thumb|left]]

Then choose where you want to build the wall. '''NOTE:''' There is no resize option for building walls, if you want to build a wall you have to do it one square at a time.

 

It's well worth noting that this isn't restricted to rebuilding walls underground, you can create a wall anywhere. This can be used to build above-ground fortifications and even entire buildings, towers, or castles if you have the patience. The wall building menu has options to create stairs and floors where none existed before, so the sky is the limit! Also of note is the fact that built walls come pre-smoothed, but cannot be engraved on. Engraving is basically making a mural on the wall that depicts either an event from your fortress, or some random image of the engraver's choosing.

One final note, built walls, stairs, etc. cannot be removed by mining, you have to deconstruct them. To do so, open the 'd'esignations menu and choose 'n' for remove construction.

[[Image:dft069.png|thumb|left]]

I've begun construction on a road connecting my depot to the edge of the map. Roads are made through the 'b'uild menu, and are placed similarly to farm plots.

 

[[Image:dft070.png|thumb|left]]

This is what happens if you try to build something in an invalid location. The red 'X's mark where the road is overlapping another section of road. It's currently not visible because roads that aren't yet constructed flash on and off, and I forgot to make sure it was visible before I took the screenshot.

 

[[Image:dft071.png|thumb|left]]

Roads take a lot of stone to build, this particular section will take 7 stones to build. Choosing stones to use is much simpler now, with the various types of stones condensed and the closest stones used first.

 

[[Image:dft072.png|thumb|left]]

When your miners run into precious minerals while digging, you will get a notification, the screen automatically moves to the location and the game pauses. This happens every time you find a different vein in this version, previously it only happened the first time you discovered a new mineral. It can be helpful perhaps, since minerals are not guaranteed to be present on a map and you have no idea how common it will be. It can be irritating seeing the same discovery notification repeatedly though. Magnetite gets smelted into iron though, so it's alright.

 

=== Zoning Bedrooms ===

[[Image:dft073.png|thumb|left]]

Here's the beginning of my mass sleeping room. I'm not going to build individual rooms for my dwarves yet, as that is far too much work. I've highlighted one of the beds using {{k|q}}, just like a building, now I'll press {{k|r}} to make the room into a bedroom.

 

[[Image:dft074.png|thumb|left]]

This grid of cyan X's shows the area currently selected as bedroom. I'll use {{k|+}} to increase the size to fill the entire room.

 

[[Image:dft075.png|thumb|left]]

Now the bedroom is fully designated. The dark cyan X's show where the walls are, and the bedroom will not expand past the walls/doors. If there weren't doors, it could continue expanding to fill the rest of the whole floor.

However, we don't want this to be one persons bedroom, we want this to be a shared bedroom, which is called a Barracks. Pressing {{k|b}} on the menu now will set that option. Barracks are usually only used for military, as eventually everyone should have their own rooms. Anyone without their own room will use the barracks. This will give the dwarves a place to sleep until they can get their own rooms. Now that the bedroom has been designated, you can assign that particular bed to a dwarf if you like, resize the bedroom designation, or press 'f' to free it. That removes the bedroom designation and unassigns any dwarf from the bed.

Note: The entire barracks is designated from a single bed, you don't have to recreate the room on each bed. All beds within the space of a barracks will be used.

 

=== Building a Well ===

[[Image:dft077.png|thumb|left]]

Near the bedroom I want to make a well, so the dwarves will have somewhere to get water from without having to run outside to the river.

 

[[Image:dft078.png|thumb|left]]

First I need some supplies to build the well. I'll need some blocks, which are crafted from stone at a Masonry, an empty bucket, which can be made of metal or wood, and a chain, which is made from metal. (I assume a cloth rope can be used also, but I have no cloth). I can make the block and bucket right now, but I'll need to set up a smithing operation to get the chain.

The first step of any smithing operation is to get fuel. Unless you have a magma source nearby, you'll be using coal. We do have a magma source, but it's rather far from our fortress, so that will have to wait. Coal can be aqcuired in two ways: dig coal ore out of the ground somewhere, or make it from wood at a wood furnace.

 

[[Image:dft079.png|thumb|left]]

I'm going to set up a temporary furnace near my carpenter's shop (obviously burning wood near a woodworking shop is an A+ idea). From the 'b'uild menu, select Furnaces ({{k|e}}).

 

[[Image:dft080.png|thumb|left]]

This gives us a variety of furnace options. The one we need first is a Wood Furnace, to make charcoal. Charcoal is functionally identical to coal, so I'll just be calling it coal from this point on.

 

[[Image:dft081.png|thumb|left]]

Furnaces are one type of building that need to be designed by an Architect before they can be built. Architecture isn't a vital skill really, you can enable it on everyone if you like, by default anything designed will be perfectly functional, but buildings designed by skilled architects are more aesthetically pleasing to dwarves and they can get happy thoughts from them.

I'm also going to build a Smelter right next to the Wood Furnace. Smelters are where metal ore gets melted and shaped into usable bars. Once the building has been designed, it will need a Mason to come finish it. This is because I chose to build it from stone. If I made it from metal, it would need Blacksmithing, and if I made it from wood, it would need Carpentry. I have a feeling a smelter made of wood would be a bad idea.

 

[[Image:dft082.png|thumb|left]]

The final step on the road to metalworking glory is the Metalsmith's Forge. I'm going to place it near the furnaces, so everything is close to each other and the smith doesn't have to go far to pick up coal and metal bars. This is the building placement screen. Most buildings are 3x3 tiles. Bright green X's show where walkable tiles for the workshop are, and the dark green X's indicate that the spot will be impassable once it is built. This isn't important above-ground, but if building underground it is possible to block off the exit to a room with a badly-placed building. Now that dwarves can move diagonally, the risk is lower, but each building has a unique layout and some block off an entire side. You cannot rotate buildings either.

A key ingredient of any Forge is the anvil. We started with an anvil, so it's covered. If we didn't bring an anvil when we started we'd be out of luck, because anvils can only be made at forges, and you can't build a forge without one. The only way to get an anvil at that point is to try and trade for one from a caravan, if they decide to bring one.

 

=== Zones ===

[[Image:dft083.png|thumb|left]]

All dwarves take breaks from time to time, and when they do so they usually have a spot that they will go to hang out, such as a meeting hall, statue garden, zoo, etc. Your stray animals will usually hang around those areas also. By default they will hang out near the starting wagon when you first arrive, even after the wagon is destroyed; to cancel that I have designated a meeting zone at the top of the fortress.

'Zones' are a new feature to this version. They are created from the main menu from hotkey {{k|i}}, then placed similarly to stockpiles. Once you have an area designated you can choose what type of zone it is.

Water Sources: placed on lakes and rivers, these indicate where dwarves should get water from. NOTE: For this to be used properly, you need to have the zone designation actually overlap the ground where you want the dwarves to stand when getting water. Otherwise they will only see the zone hanging over the water, realize they can't stand there without drowning, and ignore it (not exactly; it just won't show up as a valid Water Source).

Fishing: similar to water sources, tells dwarves 'hey come fish here instead of 4 miles upriver'.

Garbage Dump: place where they will toss any items you mark to 'dump', which is handy because now you can choose individual items to throw away, which was impossible previously. Any item thrown in the dump is marked 'forbidden' and will be completely ignored by dwarves. Dumps can be designated over open space, and dwarves will throw their garbage into the void. This is done by designating an area with tiles connecting to ground to show dwarves where to stand when throwing stuff over the edge.

 

[[Image:dft084.png|thumb|left]]

Here is an example of a dump zone. The top three tiles are on open space, while the bottom are on solid ground. The benefit of doing this is that the dump zone over the air will never 'fill up', they'll just keep tossing stuff over the edge and it will land somewhere at the bottom.

* Pit/Pond: a place to store animals, apparently. Ponds for aquatic animals obviously. Alternatively, used to begin a rousing game of toss-the-camel-into-the-volcano.
* Sand Collection: indicates where you want dwarves to get sand from. Sand is used to make glass. You'll have to find some sand tiles first though. So far I haven't seen any around this mountain, but digging near the river may reveal some.
* Meeting area: where dwarves and animals will chill go to hang out when on break.

You can also use {{k|a}} to activate/deactivate a zone, if you want them to stop using that area temporarily, instead of removing it.

 

[[Image:dft088.png|thumb|left]]

One of our cats has given birth to kittens! As long as you have both male and female of an animal, they will breed and eventually have babies. Young animals show up as red-colored versions of the adult animals. Animal breeding can be a decent source of food once you have a large population, although cats don't especially produce much food. Cows, horses, and now camels are probably much better for that purpose. Cats actually have a use aside from food - they will automatically hunt for vermin. Vermin are small animals/insects that can't harm your dwarves, but they will usually get unhappy thoughts from encountering vermin.

Other useful pets include dogs, which can be trained at a Kennel building as hunting dogs (improves their speed I think, and lets them 'ambush'), and war dogs (deal twice as much damage). Trained dogs can be assigned to follow a particular dwarf; otherwise they tend to follow the dwarf that trained them, or sometimes they will patrol the fortress.

There will be a bit more information on tame animals when I cover the stocks menu. 

[[Image:dft086.png|thumb|left]]

Progress is being made on my road, here you can see a dwarf putting the finishing touches on another section of road. 

[[Image:dft087.png|thumb|left]]

Now that the smithing buildings are all ready, let's start working on that chain. First I'll need several bars of coal from the Wood Furnace. This requires a dwarf with the Wood Burning job enabled. 

[[Image:dft089.png|thumb|left]]

Now that we have some coal ready, I'll start smelting some ore. In the new version, only ore which you have available will show up on the smelter list, which is handy because there are a lot more ores than there used to be, and you aren't guaranteed to find any particular one at any fortress site. You can also melt a metal object to return a portion of the metal that was used to make it. That partial ore will be stored at the Smelter it was melted at until you melt down enough objects at that particular Smelter to make a full bar.

Here I'm melting some Magnetite ore I found, which will return Iron bars. Smelting uses the Furnace Operator job.

 

[[Image:dft090.png|thumb|left]]

The caravan has arrived! Inconveniently, they have arrived from the north side of the map, so it'll take a while for them to arrive at the trade depot, but let's get ready for their arrival.

=== Trading and Thieves ===

 

[[Image:dft091.png|thumb|left]]

Now that the caravan has arrived, options appear at the Trade Depot. This shows who your broker is, and what he's doing. The broker can wait for now, he won't be necessary until we are ready to trade. First, we need to move some goods to the depot to be traded.

 

[[Image:dft092.png|thumb|left]]

This menu shows every individual item in your fort in a list format, including how far it is from the depot. From here you can go through and choose which items you wish to trade.

 

[[Image:dft093.png|thumb|left]]

Oh crap, now there's a kobold thief trying to steal some of my fabulous -slate mug-. Thieves have a habit of showing up with caravans, unfortunately, but kobolds are extremely weak. Thieves sneak, so you can't see them coming beforehand. They only appear and give that notification if a dwarf, tame animal, or someone from the caravan spots them. There's no skill check or anything (that I know of), they will automatically spot the thief if they are one tile away from it.

 

[[Image:dft094.png|thumb|left]]

Approximately two seconds after the previous screenshot, the dwarf who was being accosted has been drafted into the military and beat the thief into a bloody mess. (If you don't remember, activating someone for military duty is accessed by using 'v' to view the unit, then 'p' for preferences, then 'A' to activate. I won't be covering military any more than that, unfortunately). Now the corpse will be hauled to the nearby Refuse pile, where it will eventually rot into bones. Bones can be used to make trade goods, bone armor, or bone arrows.

Slain enemies drop all their stuff, which you can then use for whatever you like. Generally their armor won't be wearable, as it is either to large or too small, but the weapons can be put into weapon traps or wielded by your own military. These items also make nice trade goods, since it's all profit.

 

[[Image:dft095.png|thumb|left]]

Here's the main disadvantage of having these temporary outdoor workshops. This thief got away with the best sceptre I had made. It's not a big deal, even that sceptre isn't worth a great deal of money, but it's annoying. When you have everything indoors, it is much less likely that thieves will successfully steal anything. Over the winter I will work on moving all these workshops indoors.

 

[[Image:dft096.png|thumb|left]]

The first of the caravan has reached the depot and thrown their goods all over the place. We can't trade until they've all arrived though.

 

[[Image:dft097.png|thumb|left]]

Here we see the dwarven Outpost Liason that came with the caravan. He's been chasing my Expedition Leader for 5 minutes now while my dwarf ignores him. I've stopped all his available tasks though and called him to the depot to conduct the trading, so they should start talking soon.

 

[[Image:dft098.png|thumb|left]]

Now that the caravan is ready and the Expedition Leader/broker has arrived, let's trade. The first page of goods is mostly worthless to me, I hardly need more stone blocks, the Steel mini-forge is just a toy, and the large masterpiece gem I have highlighted here is probably worth more than everything in my fortress combined. If this weren't a tutorial game, I'd be tempted to steal it *ahem* arrange for a tragic depot 'accident'.

Note on the right-hand side I have a bin on the list - when goods are stored in bins, you can't designate the items to be traded, you need to have the whole bin hauled over. Then you can trade everything inside the bin. This is very nice, as it means less trips you need to make to carry goods to the depot. All those individual items above the bin were carried here one at a time. Inefficient! Dwarves will automatically put stuff in bins when there are free bins available and a stockpile to put them in. The bin is then labeled as a 'Finished Goods' bin, to distinguish it from an unused bin or a bin filled with coal. Finished Goods basically covers all useless trade goods such as flutes and mugs, but also is used for clothing.

After looking over the goods available, I traded a big pile of stone junk for all the traders' food, and a couple pieces of leather and cloth. You can never have too much food, but you CAN have starving dwarves. I always trade for food until I have efficient farming, brewing, and cooking operations set up that can support all my dwarves. As it is, I didn't even have enough seeds to plant the entire field we created.

One important thing I almost forgot to mention: currently we cannot see the actual value of items, only weight. My broker isn't skilled enough, so I just had to guess at how much stuff I could trade. Caravans can only carry so much weight, so you need to make sure you are trading lighter items and taking heavier items from the caravan when possible. The amount of weight you can add to the caravan without going over is shown in the lower right. If you DO go over the limit, the number will display red and you won't be able to complete the trade.

Each item has a value and a weight; even if we can't see the value, the dwarves won't trade with us if they aren't making at least some profit. Since you probably won't have a lot to trade when first starting out, you'll want to focus on getting lower-cost items like food, or crafting materials. Metal weapons and armor tend to be rather expensive. Furniture, unfortunately, is both heavy and not very valuable, so don't go making a bunch of oak cabinets expecting to ditch them on the caravan. That's why crafts are good trade items: they are light, and relatively valuable for their low weight. Also, they are cheap to produce as long as you have extra stone lying around.

 

[[Image:dft099.png|thumb|left]]

Now that the trading is done, I let the Leader go on his way, and he finally stopped to meet with the Outpost Liason. This menu comes up, where you can tell the Liason what types of goods you want them to bring next year. This is the only way to get an anvil if you didn't start with one. You can request a wide variety of goods now, including important things like seeds, weapons, armor, and new picks, if you somehow managed to lose the ones you started with and can't forge new ones. You can also request wood, which is important on maps where there is no naturally occurring wood. Here I've chosen to request a variety of seeds, so I can diversify my planting operations next year.

 

[[Image:dft101.png|thumb|left]]

After you've requested goods from the Liason, another meeting will be held once the Liason has written up a trade agreement. The trade agreement lists the prices you'll be paying for the goods they bring next year. Anything you don't specifically list will stay at regular price (100%), and goods you requested will be given a price markup according to the priority you placed on it. Generally it's best to just place the lowest possible priority on all your requests, to minimize the markup. They'll usually bring anything you request, as long as you don't request too many different items. If you request too much they'll have to decide what to bring, that's when Priority comes in to play. Anyway, there's nothing to do here other than look at the prices, so let's move on to the next meeting.

 

[[Image:dft102.png|thumb|left]]

This screen shows what the Liason is requesting for you to trade to them next year. They give their own priority and pricing for their requests. If you cater to their requests you can make a nice profit, especially on maces it looks like here. There's no penalty for not meeting any of the requests though, they'll still take any old junk you have lying around. Again, we can't make any changes here, so let's move on. That was the final meeting, so I'll let the broker dude get back to work.

 

=== Nobles ===

[[Image:dft103.png|thumb|left]]

While we're on the subject of the broker, let's look at the {{k|n}}obles menu. Nobles are like government jobs, mostly paperwork and bureaucracy. The Nobles menu shows which jobs need to be taken care of. When you first start out you start with 4 jobs, typically all of them will be assigned to one person, the Expedition Leader. This job is automatically assigned, and you cannot change the Expedition Leader. I'm not sure how it is chosen at this point, presumably if you set up one dwarf with a bunch of related noble skills he will start as the leader, but I haven't tested it.

To the right of each position it shows if that dwarf has any Requirements to preform his job, Demands to be happy with his job, and Mandates that he issues that need to be performed. Requirements typically include an Office, a Bedroom, and sometimes a private Dining room. Some also require furniture such as cabinets and chests. Demands are usually specific items that noble feels he deserves. You can usually ignore these, but he'll be happier if the demands are met. Mandates are like demands, but they generally are required to be met. That might be disabled currently, but I'm sure it will be re-enabled later on. Mandates are typically production orders, such as 'make 5 axes' or 'perform 20 mason jobs'. If the mandate isn't met, the dwarves who should be doing those jobs get punished.

The Outpost Manager job is what controls the manufacturing process in your fortress. There are various abilities of his you can use to make it easier to run a fortress. The Manager allows assigning workshops to particular dwarves, and you can also request batch jobs to be filled by the Manager. The manager then delegates those jobs to available workshops to be completed.

The Outpost Broker we've already seen, he's the one who will generally be doing the trading and negotiations with caravans.

The Bookkeeper keeps track of the items in your fort, and allows you to see how many items you have in each category. From this menu you can change the settings to show how diligent he will be in his duties.

 

[[Image:dft104.png|thumb|left]]

The bookkeeper is the only one of the first four nobles to have his own settings menu. He starts out using the lowest precision. This means he spends basically zero time working on counting the items, and any counts displayed will be rounded off horribly. This is acceptable early on, but eventually you'll probably want to raise his level of precision. Before you can do that though, you have to create an office for him. An office is basically just a room with a chair in it, and whatever other furniture he might request. You then designate the room as an office in the same way you designate a bedroom or dining room, except the office is centered around the chair, instead of a bed or table. Then when you raise the precision setting, he will spend time in the office or walking around or whatever the hell a bookkeeper does, and his skill will increase.

Eventually as the population of the fortress grows, more 'noble' jobs will be added to be worked on. The first that we know of is the Sheriff, who acts as the law-enforcement for dwarves. Any dwarf that commits a crime will wind up punished once dwarven law is enabled. Crimes include destruction of property, violation of production orders (mandates), violence against dwarves and tame animals, and murder. Dwarves are usually well behaved, but if they get too unhappy they will start to tantrum and perform various crimes in a fit of rage. If your fortress is going well this usually won't happen, but it never stays peaceful forever. Someday you WILL see a dwarf rip the head off a kitten.

 

[[Image:dft140.png|thumb|left]]

Let's get back to work! When we left off, we had finished smelting some iron, now we need to turn it into a chain for our well. The Forge creates all metal objects, so let's check it out. You might be wondering what 'Metal Clothing' is, well, it's made of Adamantine, the only metal light enough and flexible enough to be used as clothes. It's also exceedingly rare, and won't be covered in this tutorial.

 

[[Image:dft141.png|thumb|left]]

Chains are in the Furniture category, because they can be built anywhere in the fortress and used to tie up animals. This is usually used to station War Dogs in specific spots. They can also be used for prisons, to tie up dwarves who have violated the law. After choosing Furniture, it gives a list of metals to use. I don't actually have all of those metals, it just lists all possible metals. We've got iron, so I choose that.

 

[[Image:dft142.png|thumb|left]]

The next screen lists all the iron furniture I can create. The green arrow in the lower-right shows that there is more items than can fit on the screen. Most metal furniture can also be crafted from stone or wood, so you won't be making most of this stuff, but the option is there. Now, we wait for the chain to be made.

 

=== Finishing Up the Well ===

[[Image:dft105.png|thumb|left]]

At long last we can build our well... except now there's a new requirement. Well's have to be built in mid-air! Not quite actually, but you do need to dig a tunnel underneath them, so that the bucket can be lowered down into a water source. Consequently, there also has to be a water source below the well to draw from. I've been working on that, though!

 

[[Image:dft107.png|thumb|left]]

To dig out the area beneath the well, you need to dig a channel. Digging a channel destroys the floor, and digs out the tile underneath, which is the 'channel' that water can flow through. Channels are designated the same way mining and stairways are, and are dug by miners.

 

[[Image:dft108.png|thumb|left]]

Now that the channel has been dug, we have the 'open space' required by the well, so I'll go ahead and build it. Now we have to get some water beneath the well so it will be useful. Let's see what's down there.

 

[[Image:dft109.png|thumb|left]]

I've already dug out the area beneath the well, and made a path to the river so I can divert some water to the area beneath the well. Now I'll have to dig a channel from the well room to the river.

 

[[Image:dft113.png|thumb|left]]

This dwarf has decided to take a nap in the middle of the river. Somehow, he doesn't drown. Let's call this a bug.

Shortly after this the game crashed, so some details after this may not be exactly the same as they were previously. I've now changed autosave to SEASONAL instead of YEARLY.

 

[[Image:dft117.png|thumb|left]]

While digging out a channel, a cat apparently fell in. (It's the small grey 'c' in the middle). This is one of the new dangers of digging channels. I'm going to make a staircase to rescue the cat, as well as allow anyone else who falls in later to escape. Rather than digging a staircase out of the wall, I'm going to build one inside the channel, which I can later remove.

 

[[Image:dft118.png|thumb|left]]

While I was wondering who would build the stairs upward, a miner fell in the channel, so I gave him the masonry job and put him to work.

 

[[Image:dft119.png|thumb|left]]

Now I need to place the down-stair directly above the up-stair. If you try to build a down-stair over empty space, it will just be canceled.

 

[[Image:dft120.png|thumb|left]]

Victory!

[[Image:dft121.png|thumb|left]]

 

I'll build a bridge over the channel here so that we can cross over the channel if needed. I made it three tiles wide, because that is the most you can make from a single piece of stone. Note: Bridges can be attached to a lever to raise/lower or retract. By default they are set to retract, but you can use the 'wadx' keys to set it to be raised in a direction. If you do that, it has to be attached to the ground on the side you want it to raise towards, and needs to be at least 2 squares wide.

 

=== Fortress Inventory ===

[[Image:dft122.png|thumb|left]]

While waiting for our dwarves to re-do all their hard work, let's check out the Status screen accessed from the main menu by the 'z' key. Here you can see how many dwarves you have of each type, as well as a rough count of how much food you have. Right now I'm not doing so hot on food, but I'm still waiting for the caravan to arrive again. If we had a skilled broker we could see an estimate of the wealth of our fortress, as well as an estimate of how much trading we have done with other nations. There are four sub-menus available right now also.

 

[[Image:dft123.png|thumb|left]]

The Animals submenu shows all the tame animals you have. Right now none of the animals have owners, they are all strays. The dogs, the muskox, and the donkey are shown as 'unavailable', which means they cannot be claimed as pets. Hitting Enter will make them available to be pets. Once an animal is a pet, you can't do anything to it, so I usually don't make them available. Cats are uncontrollable, shown as 'Uninterested'. They may or may not at some point decide to become the pet of a dwarf. Usually you will wind up with all of them becoming attached to the same dwarf, who will be your fortress' crazy cat lady. You can also order any animal that doesn't have an owner to be slaughtered from here, which produces delicious food, bones and skulls.

 

[[Image:dft139.png|thumb|left]]

The Kitchen sub-menu shows what types of food you have lying around, an estimate of how many, and whether dwarves are allowed to cook it or brew it into beer. It's best to not allow seeds to be cooked, as they are much more valuable planted so they can grow into more food. Also of note is that cooked plants do not return a seed, so don't cook plants unless you don't need a seed from them. Brewing does return the seeds though.

 

[[Image:dft124.png|thumb|left]]

The new Stone sub-menu gives a list of all the different types of 'Economic' stone. Economic stone has some sort of use aside from building stone items. Here I have Limestone highlighted, and you can see on the right side of the screen that it is used in the process of making pig iron and steel bars. You probably won't run across all of the different types of stone listed here, but it's good to look over them so you know what everything does.

By default, all of these stones are marked as off-limits to your masons and other stone-using dwarves. However, each fortress will have a unique mineral composition, so if you wind up on a mountain with tons of limestone, you can enable it to be used for stone-building projects.

 

[[Image:dft125.png|thumb|left]]

Finally, the Stocks sub-menu. This gives you a list of every type of item you can have in your fort, and shows you how many of them you have. This is heavily dependant on your Bookkeeper noble, so eventually you will want to give one an office and have him get to work so you can have exact numbers. When you have an exact count, you can use Tab to display each individual item in a given category, then use use the hotkeys in the lower right to look at the item details, designate it to be melted or thrown away, or use 'z' to see where the item is located in your fort.

Because our bookkeeper sucks, we can only see estimates of how many stones, logs, etc. that we have. Also, the red number to the right of the estimate, is a count of how many of those items you have that are in use throughout the fortress. For example, we have no beds in the estimated count, but we can see that 10 beds are actually built and in-use. Similarly we have no doors in our stockpiles, but 4 doors built throughout the fortress. You will see similar numbers for every item you have that is in use, even seeds that are currently planted in the ground.

 

[[Image:dft127.png|thumb|left]]

Our channel to the river is just about ready, now I'll have a miner dig out the last few tiles and let the water flow through.

 

[[Image:dft129.png|thumb|left]]

With the path cleared, water rushes into the channel.

 

[[Image:dft137.png|thumb|left]]

And the finished well is now ready for use.

It's worth a mention that you don't actually need to use channels to move water anymore, I could just as easily have dug stairs downward and had the dwarves mine through the soil to move the water into position, then just used channels to open up the area under the well. Channels just make the process easier to observe.

 

[[Image:dft130.png|thumb|left]]

One of my dogs killed a mountain goat, so I've built a butcher's shop to let it be turned into edible meat. Butcher's shops turn dead animals into food, bones, and some will also return skulls and pelts. The pelts are then processed at a Tanner's workshop to become leather.

It's winter now and I still haven't gotten any immigrants :( They would be so useful to speed this up, but oh well.

 

[[Image:dft131.png|thumb|left]]

This is what happens if you don't make a stockpile for items, they build up in your workshop. The (CLT) next to the workshop title indicates that the workshop is 'cluttered', which slows down production.

To view buildings like this, use the {{k|t}} hotkey. This shows the contents of buildings. The Chestnut wood with the (B) next to it indicates that the workshop is built from that material. If we destroy the building, the material will be returned.

 

[[Image:dft132.png|thumb|left]]

Another new feature implemented in the most recent version is the Traffic Designation option. Accessed from the 'd'esignation menu, this allows you mark your hallways and make dwarves favor one path over another. In this example, dwarves will almost always follow the bright green 'H' path rather than stepping on the 'low' or 'restricted' tiles. They'll take a few shortcuts due to diagonal pathing, but that's besides the point. What's the point? Well, that's up to you. Maybe you want to make sure dwarves don't wander near a magma channel you've dug. Maybe you want them to avoid a certain hallway, and take a different path. Maybe you just like watching dwarves run around in circles. I'm sure there will be plenty of uses for this.

 

[[Image:dft133.png|thumb|left]]

This is a farmer's workshop. Some plants can be processed here, in fact some are required to be processed before they can be used. Examples are Sweet Pods, which are processed into a barrel to become syrup. Quarry Bushes are processed into a bag to become Quarry Bush leaves. These plants take a bit more work to get use out of, but they also make more food per seed, which increases farmer productivity. Note the 'milk creature' and 'make cheese' options. I'm not sure if you can actually milk cows at this point; previously you couldn't, but eventually that will be another renewable food source.

 

[[Image:dft135.png|thumb|left]]

This is the Still, a very important dwarven workshop which produces all the booze your dwarves will drink. Dwarves love their booze and will never drink anything else if you provide enough of it. When you first start a fortress though they'll usually have to go without it for a while, because farming actual food takes priority over booze.

 

=== Announcements ===

[[Image:dft134.png|thumb|left]]

Another thing you'll become familiar with is the {{k|a}}nnouncements page. This lets you view a list of the past 22 lines of announcements / events. As you can see in this one, a miner I had excavating towards the magma ran into a fire imp and got fireballed to death. I didn't get a screenshot of his wounds, but presumably he took a lot of damage to the neck or lungs. Also, raccoons stealing some trash dropped by a kobold thief.

 

[[Image:dft136.png|thumb|left]]

It's that time of the year! The climate in this zone isn't actually that cold, I haven't even got snow on the ground, but halfway through winter the river finally froze up. It actually thawed again about 10 seconds after I took that screenshot. The water in the channel froze also, but the section that was inside the mountain stayed wet. Another important reason to divert water indoors.

 

=== Epilogue ===

Well I was going to do more, but repeated crashes culminated near the end of winter when I got to a point I could no longer continue. The game now crashes about 2 minutes after I load the game consistently, so the tutorial ends here. I think I covered all of the important stuff, anyway. This should be enough to all the basic things you need to get a fortress running, and from there you can start messing with the more advanced stuff.

Feel free to make any corrections or suggestions for important things to add, I've read this so many times I can't tell what's what anymore.

===Other Guides===
All these can help with different parts of your fortress:
*[[Important advice]]
*[[Stairs]]
*[[Cave-in]]
*[[Smelting]]
*[[Design strategies]]
*[[Digging]]
*[[Controls]]
[[Category:Guides]]

40d Talk:Utilities

2008-02-24T23:28:58Z

Digger: /* Yourfilehost */

== External Utilities ==
I thinking any Utilities that not made specifically for Dwarf fortress should put together at bottom which I have done. My question should we mark area with header say External utilities? [[User:Omagaalpha|Omagaalpha]] 08:22, 14 February 2008 (EST)

== AutoHotKey ==

Should autohotkey be added as a utility tool for dwarf fortress? I know a few forum users have used it to do repetitive tasks like room designations, maybe it could have its own page and a few dwarf fortress specific script?--[[User:Thehunterunseen|Thehunterunseen]] 20:43, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

:Ive been looking for a macro program that works within dwarf fortress and thats free. Havent found a good program thats the combination of both. What do you use? --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 20:51, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

::autohotkey [http://www.autohotkey.com/] is a program like that --[[User:Thehunterunseen|Thehunterunseen]] 21:13, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

:::That was the program I used. Wierd. For me, when I inputed "6" for moving one step right... it moved like 8 steps right or something. Couldnt figure out why. Any ideas? --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 22:57, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

::::I know that {{k|shift}} + {{k|→}} = 10×{{k|→}}. Could that have something to do with it? --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 23:17, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

:::::I use "Send {LeftArrow}{Enter}{Enter}", as a test to simply have the wall/floor im building to be placed one step to the right instead of where the cursor actually is. As previously said, however, it didnt work. --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 07:05, 1 November 2007 (EDT)

::::::That might be because the {LeftArrow} part isn't right. It's supposed to be just {Left}. I've downloaded the program myself and am not having any issues with it in DF.. I'm running XP, and use it in fullscreen mode, if that helps any. --[[User:Hesitris|Hesitris]] 18:53, 12 November 2007 (EST)

: So could some people who actually know some autohotkey scripts make an article and submit some? --[[User:Thehunterunseen|Thehunterunseen]] 13:37, 6 November 2007 (EST)

::I use it and more or less know how it works but as soon as I use it inside DF it bugs out completely and I have no idea why. --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 17:56, 6 November 2007 (EST)

:::I have a number of scripts that I use, but they randomly bug out for no apparent reason. They will work fine in notepad (ie, output everything exactly as I expect), but be only partially executing and then failing in DF. Again, sometimes they work fine. I could post them and how they work if someone wants. FYI, I am on Vista and that may be an issue. --[[User:Geofferic|Geofferic]] 02:39, 19 November 2007 (EST)

::::I'm not sure how CPU cycles and the buffer interact in Vista. Is your FPS low? Perhaps a key is dropping out of the buffer but DF isn't recognizing it due to lag? Or lag might be making the buffer overflow. It might depend on how autohotkey sends keystrokes, I don't know if it simulates a key press or directly input ssomething into the buffer. You could try a small sleep(50), or the equivalent, in autohotkey and see if that helps. Also, make sure it isn't losing focus for some reason due to background programs (although that would be strange) -Gotthard

:::::I think it's a lag issue in DF. I've yet to figure out exactly what is causing lag for me. I think it's pathing with too many dwarfs and too complex of a hallway system over too many Z levels. Also, I think playing very large maps causes me to lag, as well, but I think that's related to the pathing problem and all those other creatures trying to path. It definitely got better in this version, tho. I will hold off on trying to say definitively what's up with AuthoHotkey until after the next patch. --[[User:Geofferic|Geofferic]] 03:50, 21 November 2007 (EST)

::::::AHK does tend to do wierd stuff in DF, but most of it is predictable. A lot of wierd errors that make no sense can be fixed by explicitely telling the script to focus on the Dwarf Fortress window, as well as generous Sleep statements. I found while rewalling a 30x30 outline, sleep 100 worked fine for the first two sides but posted about half of the second two. Sleep 150 placed the second two somewhat erraticly. Sleep 200 got the second two just fine. --[[User:Knivesu|Knivesu]] 10:22, 23 December 2007 (EST)

== Dwarf Foreman ==

:Foreman is looking at the wrong address for the units... which is not a good sign, since I've seen it in the address it seems to be looking at. I've also seen it bounce around. Definitely not a good sign if the list location isn't static. Or we're just looking at the wrong one completely. --[[User:AzureLightning|AzureLightning]]

It's pretty easy to find the addresses for this for new versions. Running the program in the directory with the new version gives you the check= value, and the others are moderately easy to suss. Also, I don't know exactly how it works or why it works, but from C->D->E start and pos were incremented 0x1000 each version, so laziness dictates trying that in future. [[User:Qalnor|Qalnor]] 16:37, 9 December 2007 (EST)

== Yourfilehost ==

Yourfilehost.com has kind of a lousy reputation, and I can confirm it's blocked on certain college networks. Could someone upload these utilities to a more reputable host? -- Mzbundifund 15:55, 04 November 2007 (EDT)
: Such as? --[[User:Rick|Rick]] 18:03, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:: Megaupload, rapidshare, filefactory, you pick one --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 17:40, 24 February 2008 (EST)
:::Uh, you know there is a special site for uploading DF files now, right? It's linked on the main page. Screw those other guys. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 17:53, 24 February 2008 (EST)
::::I say we scrap this section, then. --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 18:28, 24 February 2008 (EST)

==heal.exe==

heal.exe does not regrow missing limbs. However, "heal -hurt" on the command line brings missing limbs to red status, and "heal" thereafter restores the being to full health.

I propose a -regrow parameter so we don't have to do this workaround, since if it's possible to bring missing limbs from dark grey to red status it's also possible to grow them back.

Also, when using the -hurt parameter, it still says "059E7210 had 31 body parts '''healed'''", when it should probably say "wounded". --[[User:JT|JT]] 17:58, 10 November 2007 (EST)

: Hmm, if it does heal missing limbs then I just need to change my logic slightly for healing. --[[User:Rick|Rick]] 19:01, 10 November 2007 (EST)

==reveal.exe==

From what I've tested, reveal for 33a does not work for 33b. --[[User:Sparksol|Sparksol]] 13:39, 17 November 2007 (EST)

:Correct. It uses hardcoded offsets, which will change every time new code is added to DF.
:I have a version hacked for .33b, which I will not distribute out of respect for Rick.
:However, if you are skilled with a hex editor, here's what to do: change the first 5 occurances of the pattern 85 45 01 to the pattern 95 45 01. (The 6th occurance of the pattern is a coincidental match and should not be changed.) Then change the pattern 8C 33 89 00 to the pattern 8C 43 89 00. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 02:31, 19 November 2007 (EST)

:Actually, as it happens, it looks like Rick has produced updated versions of his tools for .33b. They were built on the 16th. However he hasn't linked to them. I don't know why. The URL they're at requests that no links be made to them, so I'm not going to tell you. Sorry, you'll just have to do the hexedit. —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 02:45, 19 November 2007 (EST)

:I just havn't mirrored them yet, that's all. --[[User:Rick|Rick]] 03:10, 19 November 2007 (EST)
::Hey, I'm curious why the file sizes ballooned. Reveal went from 52k to 101k, a doubling in size. Heal grew even more. Maybe you didn't strip debugging info? —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 15:42, 19 November 2007 (EST)
:::Usage of std libraries mostly. I made a library for working with DF so I wouldn't have to keep duplicating code through projects, and when writing it I figured I might as well make it more friendly for me to code in, hence usage of std:: stuff. --[[User:Rick|Rick]] 19:00, 19 November 2007 (EST)

:Whenever I try to open reveal.exe, the window will open up for a millisecond and then immedietely close. Is this a problem with the program or my windows? I am assuming its windows since everyone else seems to be able to use it. Has anyone else had this problem?--[[User:Varsashi|Varsashi]] 17:59, 26 November 2007 (EST)

::It hasn't been updated to work with 33c, and doesn't. Hopefully it will be updated soon. If you're using 33b, it should open and close quickly but reveal all allocated squares. To allocate all squares for revealing, I'll repeat the advice I've seen elsewhere: go to the lowest level and designate the entire level for digging, then remove the dig designation and run the reveal utility. --[[User:Janus|Janus]] 20:08, 26 November 2007 (EST)

So how do people feel about deleting this section, and probably the heal.exe section above too? —[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 00:56, 23 December 2007 (EST)

==How to use warp.exe?==
How do you use warp.exe? There's no information on how to use these on the page.--[[User:Demosthenes|Demosthenes]] 02:10, 21 November 2007 (EST)
: <code>warp.exe</code> by itself will list your current cursor position. After you have the position you want to warp a creature to, you do <code>warp.exe <x> <y> <z></code> as arguments, and it will warp the selected creature (selected with 'V'iew) to that destination, if it can. --[[User:Rick|Rick]] 18:10, 21 November 2007 (EST)

==StartProfile==
Perhaps, I don't understand how to use this correctly. I'm using 33e, and the StartProfile linked in the Utils section. I'm supposed to use this util at the Prepare for the Journey screen, correct? I tried testing the export function with the first dwarf, with no skills assigned. startprofile.exe -x 0 test.txt What I got back was: 
<code>
Mining: 1348403210 
Wood Cutter: 1565676876 
Carpenter: 3801123 
Engraving: 34079120 
Record Keepe: 2293770 
Liar: 34341293 
Intimidator: 16843009 
Conversationalist: 16843009 
Comedian: 16843009 
Flatterer: 16843009 
Consoler: 16843009 
Pacifier: 16843009 
</code>
When I try to set a dwarf's skills using StartProfile I end up with huge amounts of either negative or positive points available, with no changes being made to the dwarf's skills. --[[User:Stu72|Stu72]] 09:23, 11 December 2007 (EST)
: The offset for the skills must have changed. I guess I should've actually checked that, and not have assumed that just because the other values were correct, the skills were still correct. I'll check it out and post the appropriate fix. -- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]]
: The appropriate fix is redownloading it, when I hex edited the exe I messed it up field. -- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]]
:: Thanks, works beautifully. It's a terrific time saver. --[[User:Stu72|Stu72]] 15:30, 14 December 2007 (EST)

How does one use this? The readme isn't very helpful. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 01:08, 27 November 2007 (EST)
: Not knowing exactly what you're having trouble understanding, I'll give examples (the one thing I forgot to add in the readme). <code>startprofile 0 Miner.txt</code> - This will set the skill profile of the first Dwarf, in the list of units, to the skills in Miner.txt <code>startprofile 1 Jeweler.txt</code> - This will set the skills on the second Dwarf, in the list of units, to the skills in Jeweler.txt <code>startprofile -x 3 Customprofile.txt</code> - This will save the set of skills on the fourth Dwarf to Customprofile.txt <code>startprofile -v0.27.169.33b 0 Miner.txt</code> Same as the first example, except it'll work on the previous version of Dwarf Fortress. -- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 03:28, 27 November 2007 (EST)
::Thanks, I'll try that out. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 21:21, 27 November 2007 (EST)

If you wish to edit the executable, you can modify it so that it works with 0.27.169.33d by making the following changes with a hex editor:
Offset Overwrite With
----------------------------
2A530 | 98 16 25 01 04 00 00 00 DC 00 00 00 F0 08 00 00 70 00 00 00 C0 01 00 00
2A6A6 | 30 2E 32 37 2E 31 36 39 2E 33 33 64
2A77C | 02
-- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 20:14, 3 December 2007 (EST)
:CBW; PUSH SS; AND EAX, 00000401h; ADD AH, BL; ADD [EAX], AL; ...
:That makes no sense. Must be missing something off the head end.
:3 unknown bytes; ADD [EAX+EAX], EAX; ... No better. Worse, even.
:4 unknown bytes; ADD AL, 00h; ADD [EAX], AL; ... Unh uh. Don't think so.
:8 unknown bytes; ESC-4(00); ... Floating point? Really? No way.
:12 unknown bytes; LOCK OR [EAX], AL ... Insane.
:I don't know what those bytes are, but they're not code.—[[User:0x517A5D|0x517A5D]] 23:23, 3 December 2007 (EST)
::You're right, they're data. First Row is (left to right, 5 dwords): [[User:Jifodus/Memory research#Addresses_3|Start Address]], Offset from address at start address, Dwarf List begin offset, Starting points offset, Skills offset, remaining skill points points. Second row is a character string (15 chars max). Third row is a dword indicating which data index is default.
:: <tt>//Start Addr, O, Lizt, Ponts, Skll, Remain</tt>
:: <tt>{ 0x01251698, 4, 0xDC, 0x8F0, 0x70, 0x1C0 }</tt> - The read/write locations and whatnot
:: <tt>"0.27.169.33d"</tt> - Used for string comparison (-v flag)
:: <tt>2</tt> - The default version to use is the third in the list (what the above just added).
:: Configuration data can be found between 'DATA_SET' and 'TES_ATAD'. The list has enough space for 16 versions (3 are now in use). I'll just say I didn't want to have to recompile it for all the versions -- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 21:52, 6 December 2007 (EST)
If you wish to edit the executable, you can modify it so that it works with 0.27.169.33e by making the following changes with a hex editor:
Offset Overwrite With
----------------------------
2A550 |"98 26 25 01"04 00 00 00 DC 00 00 00 F0 08 00 00 70 00 00 00 C0 01 00 00
2A6B5 | 30 2E 32 37 2E 31 36 39 2E 33 33"65"
2A77C |"03"

== Patching Lavasquare ==

Due to someone being interested in running lavasquare on version 33g, I determined how to patch the exe to work with later versions. With a hex editor, open lavasquare.exe and find and replace with appropriate values (replace the X's with the values underneath for the version you want). I only tested it for 33f, but I'm assuming that the values for 33g are correct (since I got them off the wiki).

(CursorX)
FIND: EE 57 68 88 E2 8F 00 FF 35
REPLACE: EE 57 68 XX XX XX 0X FF 35
33f 88 F2 8F 0
33g 88 62 90 0
38a 88 F2 92 0

(CursorY)
FIND: EC 57 68 8C E2 8F 00 FF 35
REPLACE: EC 57 68 XX XX XX 0X FF 35
33f 8C F2 8F 0
33g 8C 62 90 0
38a 8C F2 92 0

(CursorZ)
FIND: E6 57 68 90 E2 8F 00 FF 35
REPLACE: E6 57 68 XX XX XX 0X FF 35
33f 90 F2 8F 0
33g 90 62 90 0
38a 90 F2 92 0

(MapBlocks)
FIND: FC 57 68 60 15 46 01 FF 35
REPLACE: FC 57 68 XX XX XX 0X FF 35
33f 68 25 46 1
33g 80 96 46 1
38a CC 29 49 1

(To exit immediately after writing, since I don't want to
verify the other offsets)
FIND: FF 35 5C 80 40 00 E8 88 61 00 00 0F BF 7D
F8 57 0F BF 7D FA 57 8B 7D FC 81 C7 60 06
00 00
REPLACE: FF 35 5C 80 40 00 E8 88 61 00 00 6A FF FF
25 6C B1 40 00 CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC
CC CC
-- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 02:05, 25 December 2007 (EST)

To modify the above for the same behavior as water:
FIND: 07 00 20 00
REPLACE: 07 00 00 00
-- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 17:09, 29 December 2007 (EST)

Addresses for 0.27.173.38a:
CursorX 0x0092F288
CursorY 0x0092F28C
CursorZ 0x0092F290
MapBlocks 0x014929CC
Offsets are still the same.
-- [[User:Jifodus|Jifodus]] 19:14, 7 February 2008 (EST)

== Lavasquare Popup? ==

How do I remove the prompt? It is a painful thing for large projects. The macro below helps some, though. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 08:05, 4 January 2008 (EST)

#Persistent
SetTimer, CloseLava, 100
return

CloseLava:
WinClose, lcc runtime
return

del::
IfWinActive Dwarf Fortress
{
send {down}
run C:\Program Files\Dwarf Fortress\Utilities\lavasquare 33g.exe
return
}
else
{
send {del}
return
}

== Lavasquare ==

Why does it seemingly stop working after a while? It runs but summons no magma/lava. --[[User:Spelguru|Spelguru]] 12:28, 18 January 2008 (EST)
:No idea, never run into the problem though I've used it quite thoroughly. --[[User:Jackard|Jackard]] 17:52, 18 January 2008 (EST)
:I've run into this once. Restarting DF fixed the problem. --[[User:SquirrelFarmer|SquirrelFarmer]] 09:50, 29 January 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Armor

2008-02-24T23:21:53Z

Digger: /* Shields and Bucklers */

Corrected the matter with low and high boots. If you look at the raws you can see that the armor level of both boot types are the same and thus they can both be used as chain and plate armor. My games have proved this to me. Only real difference between the two boot types is that the high boot is heavier and protects more of the body than just the feet. [[User:Noctis|Noctis]] 05:18, 22 December 2007 (EST)

Does anyone know the rules of where you can wear each piece of armor? For example, can you wear a high boot and leggings? or only low boots with leggings? Do you need to make two boots? --[[User:Mitchy|Mitchy]] 20:30, 9 November 2007 (EST)

: You can wear high boots with leggings. Leggings and high boots have different layers. --[[User:JT|JT]] 17:15, 11 November 2007 (EST)

On a similar note, what's the difference between steel leggings and steel greaves? I would've thought leggings would cover below the knee as well. Do I need both to provide maximum Xtreme protection? [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 15:17, 18 November 2007 (EST)

: As far as I can tell, greaves are the Plate class upgrade to leggings, which are Chain class lower body armor. Unlike upper body armor however, dwarves don't appear to be able to wear both leggings and greaves at once and will drop their leggings in favour of a set of greaves when set to Plate armor. --[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 14:03, 25 November 2007 (EST)

I would like to know if it's possible to find out the various protection values of different types of armor. For example, we know the material and quality modifiers for armor, but not, say, how much better plate mail protects you than chain. Or whether greaves or high boots offer more coverage.
I ask because I'm wondering if, with high quality modifiers, [[adamantine]] ''clothing'' is viable protection for those who aren't wearing armor. Certainly, it'd make a good halfway measure for those who can't do magma smelting yet, but ''can'' get a Craftsdwarf's Workshop, Loom, and Clothesmaker's Workshop set up to extract the threads, weave them, and make clothes. --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 11:48, 13 December 2007 (EST)

==Soldier==

I think some of this article, specifically that stuff in the Using armor section, should be moved over to an article more dedicated to soldier preferences. As it is, it's describing everything about arming civilians with weapons instead of simply talking about armoring civilians; that content seems more appropriate for an article about soldiers or the hunting article. --[[User:JT|JT]] 17:15, 11 November 2007 (EST)

==Verified==

I can verify that whan setting dwarves to chain, they wear gauntlets --[[User:Nog|Nog]] 16:21, 12 November 2007 (EST)

== Table ==

I added a Materials Needed section to the table. Is this OK? --[[User:Nanor|Nanor]] 19 December 2007

:Excellent idea. It looked a little odd in the table, so I moved it to the text instead. --[[User:Turgid Bolk|Turgid Bolk]] 16:47, 19 December 2007 (EST)

:: Much better! Thanks! --[[User:Nanor|Nanor]] 17:50, 19 December 2007 (EST)

== 23.130.23a ==

We had much more info on armor in the [http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Armor old wiki]. Could someone with an account there bring the relevant bits over? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 11:18, 22 December 2007 (EST)

== Leather Armor re: Caps and Helms ==

A soldier set to leather armor can wear leather helms, not just caps, and they'll wear a cap at the same time underneath (at least, if it's silk. I haven't confirmed yet if a soldier will wear a leather cap + a leather helm; doesn't really matter). This is a good thing because helms (according to the old wiki) have higher Block. They're heavier too but this shouldn't be a problem. --[[User:Stromko|Stromko]] 19:57:15 (PST), January 06 2007

:In the old versions, the materials of the armor pieces were irrelevant, regardless of the fact that the lowest armor level is called "leather". Leather and chain wearers would wear any kind of legging or boot, and a plate wearer would wear even a pig tail helm, if they happened to come across one, showing no preference for better material types or quality. Has this changed, or does the table in this article contain some wrong assumptions?--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 02:42, 7 January 2008 (EST)

::I seem to recall that 'light' materials like cloth, shell, and bone effectively 'downgraded' armor by one level, weighed half as much, and were 50% of the maximum effectiveness per their type. However! I can see right now in my current fortress a steel cap is 78 pounds and a cave spider silk cap is 13 pounds. This shows not all old information is correct.

Furthermore, bone and shell doesn't become a 'lighter' class. Shell Gauntlets require Chain or above to be assigned, and Turtle Bone Greaves go un-used until a dwarf is set to Plate.

However, I /can/ confirm from this very fortress I'm looking at right now, that dwarves assigned to leather went to pick up and wear Leather Helms. Unless, that is, they already have metal Caps. I'm looking at a marksdwarf right now assigned to wear Leather who has a Steel Cap, a pig tail hood (they all have hoods), and no helm. Everybody else has a leather helm.

I should note my fortress has no metal helms lying around, nor does it have spare metal caps, so I'm unable to verify that dwarves set to Leather wouldn't wear metal Helms or preferentially choose caps (they'd probably choose /either/ Metal Caps or Leather Helms if given a choice). However, I'm pretty sure they would not. Therefore, it is my understanding that they make a distinction between different material types. --[[User:Stromko|Stromko]] 03:22 (PST), January 07 2007

== bone greaves ==
Trying to make bone greaves, i get the message *cancelled. needs 2 bones* I have lots of horse and groundhog bones and can craft other stuff with bone fine. Is this a bug? --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 10:15, 15 February 2008 (EST)

== Shields and Bucklers ==

Hmm it states here that dwarves can wear BOTH shields and bucklers, however in soldiering screen you can select EITHER shield OR buckler, but NOT both. Does this part of article apply to Adv. mode only? Could someone verify, please? --[[User:Digger|Digger]] 18:21, 24 February 2008 (EST)

40d Talk:Armor

2008-02-24T23:21:10Z

Digger: Shields and Bucklers

40d:Armor

2008-02-24T23:17:18Z

Digger: /* Shields and Bucklers */

'''Armor''' is a class of clothing items that your dwarves can wear for protection to keep them alive longer. Armor can range from simple [[clothing]], light weight [[shell]], [[bone]] and [[leather]], to heavy [[chain mail]] and [[plate mail]].

Depending on the type and material, different dwarves with specific skills are needed to make armor. While clothes aren't necessarily armor, they do offer limited protection. Shell and bone armors are made by a [[bone carver]] at a [[craftsdwarf's workshop]]. Chain mail and plate mail are made by an [[armorer]] at a [[metalsmith's forge]]. The type of [[metal]] used affects the effectiveness of the armor. Leather armors are made at a [[leather works]] by a [[leatherworker]]. Skilled craftdwarves, leather workers and armorers will produce better quality armor that multiplies the effectiveness of the item.

Better materials provide better protection, according to the following table:

{|cellpadding="2" border="1"
! Material !! Modifier %
|-
| [[Adamantine]] || 500
|-
| [[Steel]] || 133
|-
| [[Iron]] || 100
|-
| [[Bronze]] or [[Bismuth bronze]] || 75
|-
| [[Copper]] || 66
|-
| Other metals/materials ([[leather]], [[cloth]], [[bone]], [[shell]], [[wood]], etc.) || 50
|}

[[Toady]] has also [http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=12&t=000013 stated] that [[Quality|item quality]] increases its protection (or damage, in the case of weapons), namely, "Quality has a huge effect on damage and damage reduction... Exceptional is almost double damage/damage block."

{|cellpadding="2" border="1"
! Symbol !! Name !! Damage reduction multiplier
|-
| Item || Basic armor || x1.0
|-
| -Item- || Well-crafted armor || x1.2
|-
| +Item+ || Finely Crafted armor || x1.4
|-
| *Item* || Superior Quality armor || x1.6
|-
| ≡Item≡ || Exceptional armor || x1.8
|-
| ☼Item☼ || Masterful armor || x2.0
|}
== Assigning Armor ==

To tell a dwarf to wear armor in Fortress Mode, {{k|v}}iew the dwarf, go to {{k|p}}references, then {{k|s}}oldiering. There you can select the highest level of armor he should wear: clothes, leather, chain, or plate. Shield level is selected separately. You can also set the armor level for many dwarves at once on the {{k|m}}ilitary screen, under {{k|w}}eapons.

Upgrading a civilian dwarf's armor level will not take effect unless they are activated as soldiers. Civilians will not wear armor other than [[clothing]], except for those given the [[Ambusher|Hunting]] [[labor]] (provided their armor level is set above "clothing"). This will, however, cause them to go out into the wilderness and hunt, which is often undesirable. Hunters do not appear to use bucklers or shields, so it may be advantageous to give them two melee weapons if you do not plan on having them use a crossbow.

== Armor Levels ==

{| class="wikitable" border="1"
|-
! Slot
! Leather
! Chain
! Plate
|-
| Head
| leather [[cap]] and/or [[helm]]
| metal [[cap]] and/or [[helm]]
| [[helm]]
|-
| Upper Body
| [[leather armor]]
| [[chain mail]]
| [[plate mail]]
|-
| Lower Body
| leather [[leggings]]
| metal/bone/shell [[leggings]]
| [[greaves]]
|-
| Foot
| leather low/high [[boot]]
| metal low/high [[boot]]
| metal low/high [[boot]]
|-
| Hand
| glove
| gauntlet
| gauntlet
|}

== Size ==
Beware! Dwarves can not wear any armor that is named 'large', or 'small' (human, elves...), except large rat leather armor ;). The smug traders will not warn you.

== Requirements ==
Creating plate mails requires three [[bar]]s of metal. Chain mails and greaves require two bars. All other metal armors require one bar. Note that making gauntlets or boots will always produce a pair (a left and right gauntlet, or two boots) from one bar of metal. A full suit of leather armor requires five leather pieces to manufacture, a full suit of chain armor requires six metal bars, and a full suit of plate armor requires eight metal bars. This does not include shields.

== Shields and Bucklers ==

Shields and bucklers come in all the same material flavours as armor, but offer a slightly different form of protection. While armor absorbs some of the damage from all successful attacks, a shield provides complete protection from some attacks. In [[Adventure Mode]], a successful block may also grant the defender an immediate free counterattack. Bucklers weigh less than shields, making them useful for more mobile Marksdwarves, but are assumed to provide less protection{{verify}}. Dwarves can also equip both a shield and buckler at the same time.{{verify}}

== Additional information ==

The armor wiki page for the old (2D) version of the game at http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Armor contains additional information, much of which may still be valid.

40d:Adventurer mode

2008-02-24T23:12:42Z

Digger: /* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[elf]], [[dwarf]] or [[human]]) and start out in either a town of your race or in a previous fortress you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find caves, abandoned towers and other villages. You can even visit your old fortresses and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the creatures that fated your fortress.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in skills. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear human sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of skills. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a weapon, you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of skills, you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the skills in weapons/armor determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

If you start out with a high weapon skill (except bows and crossbows) and also an above novice armor and/or shield skill, you'll start out with armor and/or shield as well.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mayor's house. You will see the Mayor (purple) and probably several [[drunks]]. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the drunks and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid. Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some buildings. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring armor from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

== Travelling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a town or group of creatures on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off cliffs is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off cliffs, depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time covers your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a quest, you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the local map. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned fortresses, you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old fortresses, you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old fortresses might prove to be rewarding, since you can find armor and weapons you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your fortress would probably be any left behind artifact weapon or armor. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get artifact-quality weapons and armor.

Also remember to check out any engravings you made while in fortress mode. When checking out engravings in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
Fighting is extremely detailed in adventure mode! This adds alot of fun in the battle, since there are so many ways to injure your opponents/victims.

=== Ranged ===
If you have a [[weapon | bow]] or [[weapon | crossbow]], you can shoot arrows or bolts at enemies. You can also throw anything you can carry at enemies. Ranged attacks are highly efficient when you hit.
To fire your bow or crossbow, press {{key|f}}, and move the marker to the enemy you wish to fire upon, and press {{key|Enter}}. Same with throwing stuff, only press {{key|t}} and choose which item to throw, then choose the victim.
''Note: Throwing is slightly bugged, but in a good and fun way. You can throw captured flies, socks and even vomit if you want, with lethal effects. (Water piercing lungs, flies piercing hearts etc..)''

=== Close combat ===
To fight a creature by hitting it, you just need to walk towards the creature. Alternatively, you can press {{key|A}} and choose your target. After you've pressed {{key|A}} and are given the list of targets to attack, you can use {{key|Enter}} to choose between a normal attack and [[wrestling]] before selecting which opponent you wish to target.
A normal attack will make the adventurer hit the target with whatever weapon he holds. If he is holding no weapon, he will bash with his shield. If he has neither a weapon nor a shield, he will either punch his target or grab a random appendage.
In [[wrestling]], you must spend a few rounds locking the target's limbs to be able to break and splinter them (good times). Alternately, you could try gouging, pinching, or strangling them instead.

=== Wounds ===
Your adventurer will get wounded by enemies or falling (jumping) off cliffs. The best (and only?) way to heal, is to press {{key|T}}, and travel at least 1 tile in any direction. Your adventurer will be fully healed then, unless your character has wounds to the neck or head. Read more about wounds [[Wound|HERE]].

== Tips for survival ==
Dying is easy in adventurer mode, especially if you've just started out. Following these simple tips will increase your chance to survive, and reach those nice stats and legendary skills! These tips are for the faint of heart only. If you like the challenges of the game, feel free to do the opposite of what these tips say.

=== Basic Needs ===
Your adventurer gets hungry, thristy, and drowsy, make sure your waterskin is always filled(fresh water at the temples), you carry 1-2 stacks[5] of food, and get some sleep sooner or later.

(''Warning:'' NEVER, EVER sleep in a hostile place, next thing you know you will be cloven asunder by your own sword, or some nasty critters will be feasting upon you)

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some members to your party, you will not only gain extra damage output. You will also have someone else to take the damage instead of YOU!
When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks! They are found in human towns inside the tavern with the Mayor (The building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill wrestling and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that Giant you are supposed to kill.

To recruit someone into your party, press talk{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. Children, peasants, the Mayor and Guards don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

=== Avoid the impossible ===
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself is this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

==== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ====
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient shield user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation(decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although i eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And i was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact(and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor(in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them i threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly succesfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) i grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

==== Arrows ====
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

=== Training yourself ===
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps alot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit "l" and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. limestone) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with pebbles, pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. Iron men are fun, because they leave behind a nice statue for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and spears damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient. Sadly, that also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind.

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious creep, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Creeps are always going to try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or river you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. Standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

=== Summary ===
*Recruit some living spearcatchers
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2008-02-24T23:11:28Z

Digger: /* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[elf]], [[dwarf]] or [[human]]) and start out in either a town of your race or in a previous fortress you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find caves, abandoned towers and other villages. You can even visit your old fortresses and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the creatures that fated your fortress.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in skills. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear human sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of skills. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a weapon, you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of skills, you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the skills in weapons/armor determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

If you start out with a high weapon skill (except bows and crossbows) and also an above novice armor and/or shield skill, you'll start out with armor and/or shield as well.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mayor's house. You will see the Mayor (purple) and probably several [[drunks]]. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the drunks and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid. Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some buildings. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring armor from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

== Travelling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a town or group of creatures on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off cliffs is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off cliffs, depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time covers your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a quest, you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the local map. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned fortresses, you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old fortresses, you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old fortresses might prove to be rewarding, since you can find armor and weapons you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your fortress would probably be any left behind artifact weapon or armor. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get artifact-quality weapons and armor.

Also remember to check out any engravings you made while in fortress mode. When checking out engravings in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
Fighting is extremely detailed in adventure mode! This adds alot of fun in the battle, since there are so many ways to injure your opponents/victims.

=== Ranged ===
If you have a [[weapon | bow]] or [[weapon | crossbow]], you can shoot arrows or bolts at enemies. You can also throw anything you can carry at enemies. Ranged attacks are highly efficient when you hit.
To fire your bow or crossbow, press {{key|f}}, and move the marker to the enemy you wish to fire upon, and press {{key|Enter}}. Same with throwing stuff, only press {{key|t}} and choose which item to throw, then choose the victim.
''Note: Throwing is slightly bugged, but in a good and fun way. You can throw captured flies, socks and even vomit if you want, with lethal effects. (Water piercing lungs, flies piercing hearts etc..)''

=== Close combat ===
To fight a creature by hitting it, you just need to walk towards the creature. Alternatively, you can press {{key|A}} and choose your target. After you've pressed {{key|A}} and are given the list of targets to attack, you can use {{key|Enter}} to choose between a normal attack and [[wrestling]] before selecting which opponent you wish to target.
A normal attack will make the adventurer hit the target with whatever weapon he holds. If he is holding no weapon, he will bash with his shield. If he has neither a weapon nor a shield, he will either punch his target or grab a random appendage.
In [[wrestling]], you must spend a few rounds locking the target's limbs to be able to break and splinter them (good times). Alternately, you could try gouging, pinching, or strangling them instead.

=== Wounds ===
Your adventurer will get wounded by enemies or falling (jumping) off cliffs. The best (and only?) way to heal, is to press {{key|T}}, and travel at least 1 tile in any direction. Your adventurer will be fully healed then, unless your character has wounds to the neck or head. Read more about wounds [[Wound|HERE]].

== Tips for survival ==
Dying is easy in adventurer mode, especially if you've just started out. Following these simple tips will increase your chance to survive, and reach those nice stats and legendary skills! These tips are for the faint of heart only. If you like the challenges of the game, feel free to do the opposite of what these tips say.

=== Basic Needs ===
Your adventurer gets hungry, thristy, and drowsy, make sure your waterskin is always filled(fresh water at the temples), you carry 1-2 stacks[5] of food, and get some sleep sooner or later.

(''Warning:'' NEVER, EVER sleep in a hostile place, next thing you know you will be cloven asunder by your own sword, or some nasty critters will be feasting upon you)

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some members to your party, you will not only gain extra damage output. You will also have someone else to take the damage instead of YOU!
When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks! They are found in human towns inside the tavern with the Mayor (The building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill wrestling and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that Giant you are supposed to kill.

To recruit someone into your party, press talk{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. Children, peasants, the Mayor and Guards don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

=== Avoid the impossible ===
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself is this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

==== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ====
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient shield user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation(decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although i eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And i was healed after each successful spider kill.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them i threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly succesfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) i grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact(and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor(in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

==== Arrows ====
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

=== Training yourself ===
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps alot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit "l" and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. limestone) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with pebbles, pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. Iron men are fun, because they leave behind a nice statue for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and spears damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient. Sadly, that also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind.

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious creep, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Creeps are always going to try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or river you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. Standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

=== Summary ===
*Recruit some living spearcatchers
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2008-02-24T23:10:02Z

Digger: /* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[elf]], [[dwarf]] or [[human]]) and start out in either a town of your race or in a previous fortress you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find caves, abandoned towers and other villages. You can even visit your old fortresses and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the creatures that fated your fortress.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in skills. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear human sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of skills. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a weapon, you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of skills, you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the skills in weapons/armor determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

If you start out with a high weapon skill (except bows and crossbows) and also an above novice armor and/or shield skill, you'll start out with armor and/or shield as well.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mayor's house. You will see the Mayor (purple) and probably several [[drunks]]. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the drunks and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid. Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some buildings. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring armor from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

== Travelling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a town or group of creatures on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off cliffs is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off cliffs, depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time covers your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a quest, you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the local map. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned fortresses, you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old fortresses, you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old fortresses might prove to be rewarding, since you can find armor and weapons you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your fortress would probably be any left behind artifact weapon or armor. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get artifact-quality weapons and armor.

Also remember to check out any engravings you made while in fortress mode. When checking out engravings in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
Fighting is extremely detailed in adventure mode! This adds alot of fun in the battle, since there are so many ways to injure your opponents/victims.

=== Ranged ===
If you have a [[weapon | bow]] or [[weapon | crossbow]], you can shoot arrows or bolts at enemies. You can also throw anything you can carry at enemies. Ranged attacks are highly efficient when you hit.
To fire your bow or crossbow, press {{key|f}}, and move the marker to the enemy you wish to fire upon, and press {{key|Enter}}. Same with throwing stuff, only press {{key|t}} and choose which item to throw, then choose the victim.
''Note: Throwing is slightly bugged, but in a good and fun way. You can throw captured flies, socks and even vomit if you want, with lethal effects. (Water piercing lungs, flies piercing hearts etc..)''

=== Close combat ===
To fight a creature by hitting it, you just need to walk towards the creature. Alternatively, you can press {{key|A}} and choose your target. After you've pressed {{key|A}} and are given the list of targets to attack, you can use {{key|Enter}} to choose between a normal attack and [[wrestling]] before selecting which opponent you wish to target.
A normal attack will make the adventurer hit the target with whatever weapon he holds. If he is holding no weapon, he will bash with his shield. If he has neither a weapon nor a shield, he will either punch his target or grab a random appendage.
In [[wrestling]], you must spend a few rounds locking the target's limbs to be able to break and splinter them (good times). Alternately, you could try gouging, pinching, or strangling them instead.

=== Wounds ===
Your adventurer will get wounded by enemies or falling (jumping) off cliffs. The best (and only?) way to heal, is to press {{key|T}}, and travel at least 1 tile in any direction. Your adventurer will be fully healed then, unless your character has wounds to the neck or head. Read more about wounds [[Wound|HERE]].

== Tips for survival ==
Dying is easy in adventurer mode, especially if you've just started out. Following these simple tips will increase your chance to survive, and reach those nice stats and legendary skills! These tips are for the faint of heart only. If you like the challenges of the game, feel free to do the opposite of what these tips say.

=== Basic Needs ===
Your adventurer gets hungry, thristy, and drowsy, make sure your waterskin is always filled(fresh water at the temples), you carry 1-2 stacks[5] of food, and get some sleep sooner or later.

(''Warning:'' NEVER, EVER sleep in a hostile place, next thing you know you will be cloven asunder by your own sword, or some nasty critters will be feasting upon you)

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some members to your party, you will not only gain extra damage output. You will also have someone else to take the damage instead of YOU!
When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks! They are found in human towns inside the tavern with the Mayor (The building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill wrestling and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that Giant you are supposed to kill.

To recruit someone into your party, press talk{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. Children, peasants, the Mayor and Guards don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

=== Avoid the impossible ===
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself is this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

==== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ====
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient shield user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation(decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although i eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And i was healed after each spider.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them i threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly succesfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) i grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact(and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor(in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

==== Arrows ====
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

=== Training yourself ===
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps alot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit "l" and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. limestone) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with pebbles, pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. Iron men are fun, because they leave behind a nice statue for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and spears damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient. Sadly, that also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind.

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious creep, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Creeps are always going to try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or river you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. Standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

=== Summary ===
*Recruit some living spearcatchers
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2008-02-24T23:03:09Z

Digger: /* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[elf]], [[dwarf]] or [[human]]) and start out in either a town of your race or in a previous fortress you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find caves, abandoned towers and other villages. You can even visit your old fortresses and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the creatures that fated your fortress.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in skills. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear human sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of skills. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a weapon, you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of skills, you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the skills in weapons/armor determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

If you start out with a high weapon skill (except bows and crossbows) and also an above novice armor and/or shield skill, you'll start out with armor and/or shield as well.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mayor's house. You will see the Mayor (purple) and probably several [[drunks]]. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the drunks and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid. Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some buildings. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring armor from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

== Travelling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a town or group of creatures on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off cliffs is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off cliffs, depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time covers your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a quest, you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the local map. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned fortresses, you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old fortresses, you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old fortresses might prove to be rewarding, since you can find armor and weapons you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your fortress would probably be any left behind artifact weapon or armor. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get artifact-quality weapons and armor.

Also remember to check out any engravings you made while in fortress mode. When checking out engravings in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

== Combat ==
Fighting is extremely detailed in adventure mode! This adds alot of fun in the battle, since there are so many ways to injure your opponents/victims.

=== Ranged ===
If you have a [[weapon | bow]] or [[weapon | crossbow]], you can shoot arrows or bolts at enemies. You can also throw anything you can carry at enemies. Ranged attacks are highly efficient when you hit.
To fire your bow or crossbow, press {{key|f}}, and move the marker to the enemy you wish to fire upon, and press {{key|Enter}}. Same with throwing stuff, only press {{key|t}} and choose which item to throw, then choose the victim.
''Note: Throwing is slightly bugged, but in a good and fun way. You can throw captured flies, socks and even vomit if you want, with lethal effects. (Water piercing lungs, flies piercing hearts etc..)''

=== Close combat ===
To fight a creature by hitting it, you just need to walk towards the creature. Alternatively, you can press {{key|A}} and choose your target. After you've pressed {{key|A}} and are given the list of targets to attack, you can use {{key|Enter}} to choose between a normal attack and [[wrestling]] before selecting which opponent you wish to target.
A normal attack will make the adventurer hit the target with whatever weapon he holds. If he is holding no weapon, he will bash with his shield. If he has neither a weapon nor a shield, he will either punch his target or grab a random appendage.
In [[wrestling]], you must spend a few rounds locking the target's limbs to be able to break and splinter them (good times). Alternately, you could try gouging, pinching, or strangling them instead.

=== Wounds ===
Your adventurer will get wounded by enemies or falling (jumping) off cliffs. The best (and only?) way to heal, is to press {{key|T}}, and travel at least 1 tile in any direction. Your adventurer will be fully healed then, unless your character has wounds to the neck or head. Read more about wounds [[Wound|HERE]].

== Tips for survival ==
Dying is easy in adventurer mode, especially if you've just started out. Following these simple tips will increase your chance to survive, and reach those nice stats and legendary skills! These tips are for the faint of heart only. If you like the challenges of the game, feel free to do the opposite of what these tips say.

=== Basic Needs ===
Your adventurer gets hungry, thristy, and drowsy, make sure your waterskin is always filled(fresh water at the temples), you carry 1-2 stacks[5] of food, and get some sleep sooner or later.

(''Warning:'' NEVER, EVER sleep in a hostile place, next thing you know you will be cloven asunder by your own sword, or some nasty critters will be feasting upon you)

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some members to your party, you will not only gain extra damage output. You will also have someone else to take the damage instead of YOU!
When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks! They are found in human towns inside the tavern with the Mayor (The building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill wrestling and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that Giant you are supposed to kill.

To recruit someone into your party, press talk{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. Children, peasants, the Mayor and Guards don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

=== Avoid the impossible ===
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself is this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

==== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ====
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient shield user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation(decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. <Healed> Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although i eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact(and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor(in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

==== Arrows ====
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

=== Training yourself ===
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps alot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit "l" and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. limestone) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with pebbles, pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. Iron men are fun, because they leave behind a nice statue for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and spears damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient. Sadly, that also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind.

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious creep, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Creeps are always going to try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or river you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. Standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

=== Summary ===
*Recruit some living spearcatchers
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]