Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

v0.31:Lye maker

2010-04-29T15:19:13Z

Arkenstone: Bad Link

{{av}}

{{Skill
| color = #880
| skill = Lye Maker
| profession = {{L|Farmer}}
| job name = Lye Making
| tasks =
* Make {{L|Lye}}

| workshop = {{L|Ashery}}
}}

'''Lye makers''' turn {{L|ash}} into {{L|lye}} at an {{L|ashery}}. Lye can then used by a {{L|soaper}} to make {{L|soap}} at a {{L|soap maker's workshop}}. It could also be used by a {{L|potash maker}} at an {{L|ashery}} to make {{L|potash}}, though potash can be made directly from ash.

'''See also:'''

{{L|Soap}}

{{Skills}}
{{Category|Skills}}
{{Category|Jobs}}

v0.31:Creature

2010-04-28T22:31:08Z

Arkenstone: /* Animalman Races */

{{AV}}

In Dwarf Fortress, '''creatures''' are defined as any (for the sake of this article, non-{{L|vermin}}) beings you can interact with. They come in all shapes and sizes, and range from the civilized races like {{L|dwarf|dwarves}} to evil monsters like {{L|giant cave spider|giant cave spiders}}. Various creatures will interact with your fortress in many different ways.

See also: {{L|Animals}}

==Reading the Table==
{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
|}
The above columns indicate, in order:

'''Symbol:''' The symbol assigned to the creature, how you will see it without a graphic set.

'''Name:''' The name of the creature as it shows up ingame.

'''Hostile:''' If "Yes" then the creature will attack on sight, if "No" then the creature is either neutral or friendly. {{L|Undead}} creatures are always hostile.

'''Food Source:''' If "Yes" then the creature can be butchered into edible substance that your dwarves will feed on.

'''Adult Body Size:''' The size of the creature at it's adult age. This can be anywhere from 5,000 ({{L|stingray}}, {{L|cat}}) to 25,000,000 ({{L|dragon}}). Equals more or less the creature's weight in grams. These sizes do not correspond to the sizes which trigger {{L|pressure plate}}s.

'''Pet Value:''' This is the value the creature can be bought and sold for as a {{L|pet}} during {{L|trading}}.

'''Locations:''' Where the creature can be found.

'''Features:''' Any special features the creature possesses, these can include things such as {{L|cave blob|causing a syndrome}}, {{L|dragon|breathing fire}}, or {{L|giant cave spider|spinning webs}}.

==Creatures==
===Civilized===
====Main Races====
{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|dwarf}}|symbol=☺|color=3:0:0|hostile=Variable1|food=No|size=60,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Fortresses|note=Trading race}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|elf}}|symbol=E|color=3:0:0|hostile=Variable1|food=No|size=60,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Forest retreats|note=Trading race}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|goblin}}|symbol=g|color=7:0:0|hostile=Variable1|food=No|size=60,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Dark fortresses|note=Trading race}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|human}}|symbol=U|color=3:0:0|hostile=Variable1|food=No|size=70,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Towns and cities|note=Trading race}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|kobold}}|symbol=k|color=6:0:0|hostile=Variable1|food=No|size=20,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Caves|note=Trading race}}
|}
:1. Whether or not you are hostile with select civilized races is randomized for every game world.

====Animalman Races====
'''Note: These creatures can form crude civilizations underground but will not trade with you. They wield some weapons and can join adventurers.'''
{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|amphibian man}}|symbol=a|color=6:0:0|hostile=Variable1|food=Yes|size=20000|value=Not tameable|biome=Underground|note=Amphibious}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|antman}}|symbol=a|color=0:0:1|hostile=Variable1|food=Yes|size=Variable2|value=Not tameable|biome=Underground|note=4 castes}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|batman}}|symbol=b|color=0:0:1|hostile=Variable1|food=Yes|size=70000|value=Not tameable|biome=Underground|note=Can fly}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|cave fish man}}|symbol=f|color=7:0:1|hostile=Variable1|food=Yes|size=70000|value=Not tameable|biome=Underground|note=Amphibious}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|cave swallow man}}|symbol=s|color=0:0:1|hostile=Variable1|food=Yes|size=70000|value=Not tameable|biome=Underground|note=Can fly}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|olmman}}|symbol=o|color=7:0:1|hostile=Variable1|food=Yes|size=70000|value=Not tameable|biome=Underground|note=Amphibious}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|reptile man}}|symbol=r|color=2:0:0|hostile=Variable1|food=Yes|size=50000|value=Not tameable|biome=Underground|note=Amphibious}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|serpent man}}|symbol=s|color=7:0:1|hostile=Variable1|food=Yes|size=50000|value=Not tameable|biome=Underground|note=Amphibious; Causes [[Syndrome]]}}
|}
:1. Whether a animalman civilization is hostile with you or not is randomized for each one you find.
:2. Antmen body sizes depend on their caste.


====Domestic Animals====
{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|cat}}|symbol=c|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=5,000|value=20|biome=N/A|note=Domestic}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|cow}}|symbol=C|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=600,000|value=300|biome=N/A|note=Domestic and milkable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|dog}}|symbol=d|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=30,000|value=30|biome=N/A|note=Domestic and trainable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|donkey}}|symbol=D|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=30,0000|value=200|biome=N/A|note=Domestic and milkable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|horse}}|symbol=H|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=500,000|value=200|biome=N/A|note=Domestic and milkable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|mule}}|symbol=M|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=400,000|value=200|biome=N/A|note=Domestic}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|wagon}}|symbol=W|color=6:0:0|food=No|hostile=No|size=12,000|value=Not tameable|biome=|note=A special "creature" - see {{L|wagon|article}}}}
|}

===Special===
====Megabeasts====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|bronze colossus}}|symbol=C|color=6:0:0|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=20,000,000|value=Not tameable|biome=All land|note=Made of bronze, fairly hard to kill}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|dragon}}|symbol=D|color=2:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=25,000,000|value=10000|biome=All land|note=Breathes fire, trainable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|hydra}}|symbol=H|color=4:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=8,000,000|value=10000|biome=All land|note=Has seven heads}}
|}

====Semi-Megabeasts====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|cyclops}}|symbol=C|color=4:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=8,000,000|value=Not tameable|biome=All land|note=One eyed}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|ettin}}|symbol=E|color=6:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=8,000,000|value=Not tameable|biome=All land|note=Has two heads}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|giant}}|symbol=G|color=3:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=9,000,000|value=Not tameable|biome=All land|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|minotaur}}|symbol=M|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=220,000|value=Not tameable|biome=All land|note=}}
|}

====Nonexistant====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|centaur}}|symbol=C|color=6:0:0|food=No|size=N/A|value=N/A|hostile=N/A|biome=Nowhere|note=Only found in engravings}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|chimera}}|symbol=C|color=2:0:1|food=No|size=N/A|value=N/A|hostile=N/A|biome=Nowhere|note=Only found in engravings}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|griffon}}|symbol=G|color=7:0:1|food=No|size=N/A|value=N/A|hostile=N/A|biome=Nowhere|note=Only found in engravings}}
|}

===Above Ground===
====Mountain====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|dark gnome}}|symbol=g|color=3:0:0|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=15,000|value=|biome=Evil mountains|note=Steals booze}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|giant eagle}}|symbol=E|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=100,000|value=700|biome=Mountains|note=Trainable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|hoary marmot}}|symbol=m|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=10,000|value=50|biome=Mountains|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|mountain gnome}}|symbol=g|color=0:0:1|food=No|hostile=No|size=15,000|value=|biome=Mountains|note=Steals booze}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|mountain goat}}|symbol=g|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=50,000|value=50|biome=Mountains|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|yeti}}|symbol=Y|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=300,000|value=|biome=Mountains, glaciers, and tundra|note=}}
|}

====Tundra====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|blizzard man}}|symbol=M|color=3:0:1|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=300,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Tundra and glaciers|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|elk}}|symbol=E|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=300,000|value=100|biome=Tundra, grassland, and temperate forest|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|ice wolf}}|symbol=w|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=50,000|value=50|biome=Evil tundra and glaciers|note=Pack animal}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|muskox}}|symbol=M|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=285,000|value=300|biome=Tundra and grassland|note=Pulls wagons}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|polar bear}}|symbol=B|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=400,000|value=100|biome=Tundra and glaciers|note=Steals booze, trainable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|werewolf}}|symbol=W|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=120,000|value=50 or 1000|biome=Evil tundra, grassland, taiga, and some evil forest|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|yeti}}|symbol=Y|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=300,000|value=|biome=Mountains, glaciers, and tundra|note=}}
|}

====Glacier====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|blizzard man}}|symbol=M|color=3:0:1|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=300,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Tundra and glaciers|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|ice wolf}}|symbol=w|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=50,000|value=50|biome=Evil tundra and glaciers|note=Pack animal}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|polar bear}}|symbol=B|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=400,000|value=100|biome=Tundra and glaciers|note=Steals booze, trainable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|yeti}}|symbol=Y|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=300,000|value=|biome=Mountains, glaciers, and tundra|note=}}
|}

====Desert====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|Nightwing}}|symbol=N|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=120,000|value=50|biome=Evil desert|note=Can fly}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|Giant desert scorpion}}|symbol=S|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=200,000|value=2500|biome=Savage desert|note=No pain, no stun, No emotion}}
|}

====Savanna====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|giant lion}}|symbol=L|color=6:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=400,000|value=200|biome=Some land|note=Trainable}}
|}

====Grassland====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|giant lion}}|symbol=L|color=6:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=400,000|value=200|biome=Some land|note=Trainable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|muskox}}|symbol=M|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=285,000|value=300|biome=Tundra and grassland|note=Pulls wagons}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|werewolf}}|symbol=W|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=120,000|value=50 or 1000|biome=Evil tundra, grassland, taiga, and some evil forest|note=}}
|}

====Shrubland====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|elephant}}|symbol=E|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=5,000,000|value=500|biome=Tropical forest and shrubland|note=Trainable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|giant lion}}|symbol=L|color=6:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=400,000|value=200|biome=Some land|note=Trainable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|unicorn}}|symbol=U|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=600,000|value=1000|biome=Good taiga, forest, and shrubland|note=}}
|}

====Freshwater Marsh====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|beak dog}}|symbol=B|color=4:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=150,000|value=50|biome=Evil marshes|note=Can be mounted by goblins}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|slugman}}|symbol=s|color=6:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Any wetland and moist tropical broadleaf forest|note=no bones}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|snailman}}|symbol=s|color=7:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Any wetland and moist tropical broadleaf forest |note=no bones}}
|}

====Saltwater Marsh====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|beak dog}}|symbol=B|color=4:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=150,000|value=50|biome=Evil marshes|note=Can be mounted by goblins}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|slugman}}|symbol=s|color=6:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Any wetland and moist tropical broadleaf forest|note=no bones}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|snailman}}|symbol=s|color=7:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Any wetland and moist tropical broadleaf forest |note=no bones}}
|}

====Freshwater Swamp====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|grimeling}}|symbol=g|color=2:0:0|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=70,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Evil swamps|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|slugman}}|symbol=s|color=6:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Any wetland and moist tropical broadleaf forest|note=no bones}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|snailman}}|symbol=s|color=7:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Any wetland and moist tropical broadleaf forest |note=no bones}}
|}

====Saltwater Swamp====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|grimeling}}|symbol=g|color=2:0:0|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=70,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Evil swamps|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|slugman}}|symbol=s|color=6:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Any wetland and moist tropical broadleaf forest|note=no bones}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|snailman}}|symbol=s|color=7:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Any wetland and moist tropical broadleaf forest |note=no bones}}
|}

====Forest and Taiga====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|elephant}}|symbol=E|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=5,000,000|value=500|biome=Tropical forest and shrubland|note=Trainable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|elk}}|symbol=E|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=300,000|value=100|biome=Tundra, grassland, and temperate forest|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|foul blendec}}|symbol=b|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=60,000|value=250|biome=Most evil forest|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|grizzly bear}}|symbol=B|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=200,000|value=500|biome=Taiga and temperate forest|note=Steals booze, trainable}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|slugman}}|symbol=s|color=6:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Any wetland and moist tropical broadleaf forest|note=No bones}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|snailman}}|symbol=s|color=7:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Any wetland and moist tropical broadleaf forest |note=No bones}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|strangler}}|symbol=s|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=40,000|value=250|biome=Evil tropical moist broadleaf forest|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|unicorn}}|symbol=U|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=600,000|value=1000|biome=Good taiga, forest, and shrubland|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|werewolf}}|symbol=W|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=120,000|value=50 or 1000|biome=Evil tundra, grassland, taiga, and some evil forest|note=}}
|}

===Subterranean===
====Magma====
{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|fire imp}}|symbol=i|color=6:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=6,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Magma|note=Throws fireballs}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|fire man}}|symbol=M|color=4:0:1|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=70,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Magma|note=Throws fireballs}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|magma crab}}|symbol=C|color=0:0:1|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=30,000|value=200|biome=Magma|note=Throws molten basalt}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|magma man}}|symbol=M|color=4:0:1|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=70,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Magma|note=}}
|}

====Cavern====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|amethyst man}}|symbol=M|color=5:0:1|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=70,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Caverns|note=Leaves behind an amethyst}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|blind cave bear}}|symbol=B|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=200,000|value=500|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|blind cave ogre}}|symbol=O|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=7,000,000|value=500|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|blood man}}|symbol=M|color=4:0:1|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=70,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|bugbat}}
|symbol=b|color=5:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=10,000|value=20|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|cave blob}}|symbol=o|color=6:0:1|food=No|hostile=No|size=20,000|value=50|biome=Caverns|note=Causes [[syndrome]]}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|cave crocodile}}|symbol=C|color=7:0:0|hostile=Yes|food=Yes|size=600,000|value=750|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|cave dragon}}|symbol=D|color=7:0:1|hostile=Yes|food=Yes|size=15,000,000|value=10,000|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|creeping eye}}|symbol=e|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=20,000|value=50|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|crundle}}
|symbol=c|color=4:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=10,000|value=50|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|draltha}}
|symbol=D|color=6:0:1|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=2,500,000|value=500|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|drunian}}|symbol=d|color=7:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=50|biome=Caverns|note=Steals food and items}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|elk bird}}|symbol=E|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=100,000|value=400|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|flesh ball}}
|symbol=o|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=70,000|value=10|biome=Subterranean water|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|floating guts}}|symbol=%|color=7:0:0|hostile=No|food=Yes|size=20,000|value=10|biome=Caverns}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|gabbro man}}|symbol=M|color=0:0:1|food=No|hostile=Yes|size=70,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Caverns|note=Leaves behind gabbro}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|giant cave spider}}|symbol=S|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=100,000|value=2500|biome=Caverns|note=Spins/throws [[web|webs]] and causes [[syndrome]]}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|giant earthworm}}
|symbol=W|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=100|value=500|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|gorlak}}|symbol=g|color=6:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|green devourer}}
|symbol=G|color=2:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=70,000|value=200|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|helmet snake}}
|symbol=s|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=50,000|value=30|biome=Caverns|note=Causes [[syndrome]]}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|hungry head}}
|symbol=h|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=5,000|value=50|biome=Caverns|note=Flying}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|jabberer}}|symbol=J|color=5:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=4,500,000|value=1500|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|pond grabber}}|symbol=P|color=1:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=300,000|value=50|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|reacher}}|symbol=R|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=70,000|value=100|biome=Caverns|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|rutherer}}
|symbol=R|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=3,000,000|value=600|biome=Caverns|note=Exotic Mount}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|troll}}|symbol=T|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=250,000|value=Not tameable|biome=Caverns|note=Forms civilizations}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|voracious cave crawler}}|symbol=C|color=1:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=900,000|value=1000|biome=Caverns|note=}}
|}

===Aquatic===
====Ocean====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|angel shark}}|symbol=s|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=15,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|basking shark}}|symbol=S|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=15,000,000|value=1000|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|blacktip reef shark}}|symbol=S|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=15,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|blue shark}}|symbol=S|color=1:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=300,000|value=400|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|bluefin tuna}}|symbol=α|color=1:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=600,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|bluefish}}|symbol=α|color=3:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=15,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|bull shark}}|symbol=S|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=150,000|value=500|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|cod}}|symbol=α|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=50,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|coelacanth}}|symbol=c|color=1:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=80,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|common skate}}|symbol=ò|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=100,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|conger eel}}|symbol=~|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=50,000|value=400|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|frill shark}}|symbol=s|color=3:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=60,000|value=500|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|giant grouper}}|symbol=G|color=1:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=600,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|great barracuda}}|symbol=B|color=2:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=60,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|great white shark}}|symbol=S|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=2,000,000|value=500|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|halibut}}|symbol=α|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=200,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|hammerhead shark}}|symbol=S|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=500,000|value=500|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|longfin mako shark}}|symbol=S|color=3:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=30,000|value=500|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|manta ray}}|symbol=►|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=2,300,000|value=500|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|milkfish}}|symbol=α|color=3:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=10,000|value=50|biome=Almost all water|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|nurse shark}}|symbol=S|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=150,000|value=300|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|ocean sunfish}}|symbol=α|color=3:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=1,000,000|value=500|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|opah}}|symbol=α|color=4:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=200,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|sea lamprey}}|symbol=~|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=20,000|value=200|biome=Almost all water|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|shortfin mako shark}}|symbol=S|color=3:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=80,000|value=500|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|spiny dogfish}}|symbol=s|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=30,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|spotted wobbegong}}|symbol=S|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=80,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|stingray}}|symbol=ò|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=5,000|value=200|biome=Almost all water|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|sturgeon}}|symbol=α|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=1,500,000|value=300|biome=Oceans and rivers|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|swordfish}}|symbol=α|color=3:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=650,000|value=500|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|tiger shark}}|symbol=S|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=500,000|value=500|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|walrus}}|symbol=W|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=1,500,000|value=400|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|whale}}|symbol=W|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=20,000,000|value=1000|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|whale shark}}|symbol=W|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=20,000,000|value=1000|biome=Oceans|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|whitetip reef shark}}|symbol=S|color=7:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=15,000|value=200|biome=Oceans|note=}}
|}

====Freshwater====

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|leechman}}|symbol=l|color=0:0:1|hostile=yes|food=Yes|size=50,000|value=Not tameable|biome=freshwater lakes|note=no bones, sucks blood}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|milkfish}}|symbol=α|color=3:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=10,000|value=50|biome=Almost all water|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|sea lamprey}}|symbol=~|color=0:0:1|food=Yes|hostile=Yes|size=20,000|value=200|biome=Almost all water|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|stingray}}|symbol=ò|color=7:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=5,000|value=200|biome=Almost all water|note=}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|sturgeon}}|symbol=α|color=6:0:0|food=Yes|hostile=No|size=1,500,000|value=300|biome=Oceans and rivers|note=}}
|}

==Hidden Fun Stuff==

{{minorspoiler}}

{{CreatureCurrent table head}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|demon}}|symbol=&|color=7:0:1|food=N/A|hostile=Yes|size=N/A|value=N/A|biome={{l|Eerie cavern|Eerie caverns}}|note=See article for more information}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|forgotten beast}}|symbol=N/A|color=7:0:1|food=N/A|hostile=Yes|size=N/A|value=N/A|biome=All underground|note=See article for more information}}
{{CreatureCurrent table row|name={{L|titan}}|symbol=N/A|color=7:0:1|food=N/A|hostile=N/A|size=N/A|value=N/A|biome=All above-ground|note=See article for more information}}
|}

v0.31 Talk:Elf

2010-04-28T21:46:52Z

Arkenstone: /* Demands */

Confirm that trading leather is a no no? [[User:Cpad|Cpad]] 02:04, 10 April 2010 (UTC)

:see update. leather is fine in all forms. --[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 16:53, 10 April 2010 (UTC)

Needs game data

Creatures that you purchase from them do not appear to breed, even if you have enough of both genders chained or caged in close proximity. Perhaps the elves practice spay/neuter policies with the creatures they trade? [[User:Volouscheur|Volouscheur]] 21:59, 21 April 2010 (UTC)
:That's nothing to do with Elves, it's just that caged animals don't breed. Not sure about chained ones. Incidentally, proximity has nothing to do with breeding at present - everything seems to reproduce through spores :) [[User:Oddtwang of Dork|Oddtwang of Dork]] 12:49, 26 April 2010 (UTC)

==Removed text==

Removed this section as it's not encyclopaedic (or very well-written):

<quote>They are hypocritical, cowardly (Choosing ranged weapons over axes), and "ye best keep your wits about ye" when they are on your map. To sum things up they are not Dwarves... or even Humans (Or even close to Humans), and should therefore be treated as enemies.</quote>

It might be worth including something to the effect of "many players refer to the Elves as 'treehugging hippies' and the like".
[[User:Oddtwang of Dork|Oddtwang of Dork]] 12:49, 26 April 2010 (UTC)

:I think that that is a good sport of comedy, and should be put back (with a "D for Dwarf" banner above it). --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 21:46, 28 April 2010 (UTC)

==Demands==

Can anyone verify that Elves still demand you limit deforestation in 0.31? [[User:Oddtwang of Dork|Oddtwang of Dork]] 12:49, 26 April 2010 (UTC)

And do the still refuse meat? --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 21:46, 28 April 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Elf

2010-04-28T21:46:03Z

Arkenstone: /* Removed text */

v0.31 Talk:Challenges

2010-04-28T14:28:38Z

Arkenstone: Created page with 'I've noticed that there's no DF 2010 page for megaprojects; maybe, one could be made as a subset of this page. Shall it be so, or shall it have a page to itself? --~~~~'

I've noticed that there's no DF 2010 page for megaprojects; maybe, one could be made as a subset of this page. Shall it be so, or shall it have a page to itself? --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 14:28, 28 April 2010 (UTC)

v0.31:Pitchblende

2010-04-28T14:25:03Z

Arkenstone: Added some info.

{{stonelookup/0}}{{av}}
{{elven}}
Pitchblende has a nice regal purple color that's hard to find in the game.

It's also an ore of Uranium and, although it cannot be smelted, is often used to fake a 'nuclear reactor' in player-built [[DF2010:Challenges|Megaprojects.]]
{{rocks}}

User talk:Arkenstone

2010-04-18T02:17:09Z

Arkenstone: Blanked the page

v0.31:Catsplosion

2010-04-17T15:57:02Z

Arkenstone: Transcribed the old page, and modified it slightly to fit with DF 2010. I'd say that's probably enough to reach at least Human quality level. [modified quality tag to match]

{{av}}
{{Human}}
[[File:Catbefore.JPG|left|thumb|Before.]]
[[File:Catafter.JPG|right|thumb|After.]]

{{D for Dwarf}}
The '''catsplosion''' is a mighty force of nature and a serious concern at the Mountainhome. Much like the captain of a popular starship and his ''Trouble with Tribbles'', dwarves fall prey to the fecund habits of the furry, lovable creatures known as {{L|cat}}s.

== Conventional catsplosion ==

A '''conventional catsplosion''' is an uncontrolled overpopulation of cats, believed to be intended as an elven ploy to prevent the further development of the game Dwarf Fortress. Dwarven scholars believe that the {{L|elf|elves}}, in conjunction with Al Qaeda, are operating in order to reduce the frame rate of players by forcing them to waste CPU cycles on rendering the pathfinding of literal seas of kittens, queens, and toms. Eventually, players find the game too slow to be playable, and no longer provide any donations to Bay 12 Games, resulting in the destruction of the world as they know it.

Conventional catsplosions are an insidious poison which operate by using a lethal psychological attack known as "Cuddly Wuddly Syndrome". Dwarves, ordinarily content to manage an overpopulation of cats by employing {{L|butcher}}s, {{L|tanner}}s, {{L|soaper}}s, {{L|leatherworker}}s, and {{L|cook}}s, may suddenly find themselves appropriated by a cat who employs mind control waves in order to take the dwarf hostage. The dwarf, now considering the cat its pet (when in fact the opposite is true), is no longer able to butcher the cat and will absolutely not tolerate anyone butchering his "bewuv'ed cuddlebug". Through this psychological technique, an insurgent is thereby successfully implanted into the fortress.

Over time, the number of insurgents grows so large that the dwarves must respond with open violence to protect their homes and (other) loved ones. {{L|Magma}}, {{L|water}}, and {{L|bridge}}s are considered particularly effective countermeasures. Sadly, this results in significant unhappy thoughts and even open {{L|tantrum}}s due to dwarves losing their "pets".

=== Dealing with Conventional catsplosion ===
==== Part 1: Keeping "Cuddly Wuddly Syndrome" (CWS) under control ====
One word : {{L|cage}}

Do not leave stray cats wandering around or they will surely appropriate one of your citizens as a pet. Before your cat population gets out of control, quickly build a {{L|cage}} and assign all stray cats to it. If you do want some cat breeding in the long run, just leave a breeding pair outside and they will sooner or later become "pets". From then on, the moment you get
an announcement that says "(SomePetName), Cat (Tame) has given birth to kitten(s)", quickly assign all new kittens to the cage. If they stay in the cage, they cannot mind control your dwarves. If you manage to assign the cats quick enough and even if they manage to adopt someone prior to be put in the cage, they still will be put in it.

==== Part 2: Getting rid of the unwanted cats ====
[[File:Catmeat.png|left|thumb|Desperate times call for desperate measures.]]

The options are as follows:
* {{L|Butcher|Butchering}}. This still has a certain risk that the cat will infect a worker dwarf with CWS on the way to the {{L|Butcher's shop}}, so care must be taken to ensure that the distance is short. It is highly recommended that the cage intended for stray cat containment is built right next to a couple of {{L|Butcher's shop|butcher's shops}}. You can quickly assign any newborn kittens to be slaughtered through the animals section of the ({{k|z}})status menu.
* {{L|Trading}}. This is the only 100% safe way to get rid of stray cats in a cage. When a trader approaches your fortress, deconstruct the cat cage to move it to the animal stockpile. Then set the cat cage for trading at the depot to move it there. Once at the depot, convert the cats into cash, or even just offer it outright to get rid of it.
* {{L|Trap#Other_traps|Execution Traps}}. Put drop off 10 z-levels into a pool of {{L|water}} or {{L|magma}} with no escape or something to that extent.
* As cats appear to be attracted to vermin inside a food stockpile, putting a pet unpassable door in the entrance of the food stockpile and constructing a upright spike on either side of this door and then connecting a lever to these spikes can kill the already "pet" cats in a relativaly safe manner. NOTE: Be sure to check the door for dwarves before pulling the lever or they might be harmed.
* {{L|Modding}}. Removing the {{L|creature token}} [VERMINHUNTER] will stop cats from adopting owners but also from getting rid of unwanted rats. Or, if you're feeling ''really'' cruel, you can remove cats entirely. Note that neither method will stop cats '''after''' a world has been generated, only before.

{{cvsec}}
== Thermonuclear catsplosion ==
Thanks the {{L|Scamps}} Conventions of *{{version|0.28.181.40d}} and *{{version|0.31.03}}, the number of Thermonuclear Catsplosions has been drastically reduced, for the ignition keys are now by law hidden in a very {{L|Fun}} place after worldgen. They are, therefore, unavailable to prospective <s>modders</s> elf-fondling terrorists to use without causing drastic, system-wide instability to their computer networks.

As a warning, here's [http://www.mkv25.net/dfma/movie-518-nuclearcatsplosion the only video footage ever recovered from the horrible aftermath of a thermonuclear catsplosion].

v0.31:Catsplosion

2010-04-17T03:19:40Z

Arkenstone: added before/after from the new Bay 12 Games / DF homepage

{{av}}
{{Elven}}
[[File:Catbefore.JPG|left|thumb|Before.]]
[[File:Catafter.JPG|right|thumb|After.]]

[[Cats]] reproduce at an exponential rate unchecked. In addition, they have a trait unique to them as pets which means they adopt dwarves instead of the other way around. This means that cats can become pets and therefore evade the [[Butcher]] without your permission.

The term "Catsplosion" refers to the absolutely ludicrous amount of cats that will appear in any fortress which isn't actively trying to prevent it. Because a large number of animals in a fortress will cause [[FPS]] to drop like a rock, this is almost always a [[Fun|Bad Thing]].

The similar term, "Thermonuclear Catsplosion" is much more literal, and refers to the phenomenon of cats exploding in spectacular fashion if a modder raises their [HOMEOTHERM] tag too high.

File:Cowmilkroast.JPG

2010-04-15T02:44:17Z

Arkenstone:

File:DF elves in human civ1.JPG

2010-04-11T20:43:57Z

Arkenstone: This is what happens if you put [CREATURE:ELF] in the same entity as humans.

This is what happens if you put [CREATURE:ELF] in the same entity as humans.

File:What Bilbo Baggins Hates.jpg

2009-08-30T03:50:37Z

Arkenstone: Chip the glasses and crack the plates! Blunt the knives and bend the forks! That's what Bilbo Baggins hates-- Smash the bottles and burn the corks!

Chip the glasses and crack the plates!
Blunt the knives and bend the forks!
That's what Bilbo Baggins hates--
Smash the bottles and burn the corks!

40d Talk:Chalk

2009-08-29T20:38:25Z

Arkenstone:

Am I the only one who finds it weird to make things out of chalk? --[[User:Blakyoshi7|Blakyoshi7]] 00:42, 7 June 2008 (EDT)

:Aye. Ye are, lad. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 09:09, 7 June 2008 (EDT)

::It would be funny if they could make chalk engravings on a blackboard. Then they could use it to teach dwarves! --[[User:AlexFili|AlexFili]] 04:11, 9 June 2008 (EDT)

:::Until the engravers decide to start engraving melting dwarves. On second thought, maybe the kids should learn some history. Of the [[Boatmurdered]] variety. Those kids won't sleep for weeks. --[[User:Smartmo|Smartmo]] 16:27, 13 January 2009 (EST)

::::Does anyone know if the [BRITTLE] tag works for stones? And kids not sleeping means they get more grower skill, so they ARE learning something... --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 16:37, 29 August 2009 (EST)

== Page 1 of my penance ==

I know there's a lot of data on the new Chalk page that can be found other places. I mostly just cut and pasted from the full listings, deleting what wasn't relavent. I am happy to use this format and level of detail for all of the other stones, (one or two a day) if someone will simply say "Good job, Jaz. Do it again." ... On the other hand, if you think it's too cluttered, or whatever, then... It's easy enough to put it back the way it was. Even if you don't say "Do it again, Jaz." I am likely to do another few stones tomorrow... uh, later today. After I sleep. Sleep first, other stone pages after...

I do find one thing lacking in the new page. There is no humor. That is because I, sadly, am humor impared.

If there is something I did wrong, (like missing an entry or putting one in that doesn't belong) let me know, I will do my best to fix it. Assuming you didn't do it already, in which case, let me know anyways. I like to know what I need to keep an eye out for in the future. If the wrong thing was doing this page at all in the first place, a simple "Stop, Jaz, we don't like it" will suffice.

And yes, I know, I talk too much. --[[User:Teres Draconis]] 07:38, 21 May 2009 (UTC)
:I can't quickly see what makes chalk different from a dozen other stones - I'll read the groupings on the "Stone" page for that. So I don't think it needs its own page. Precious/semi-precious/flux/coloured-but-useless - that's all I need to know until Toady tweaks the stone announcements. --[[User:Jellyfishgreen|Jellyfishgreen]] 09:08, 21 May 2009 (UTC)

::Well, it's certainly thorough. Whether it's formatted in a way that's user-friendly is another question. And it runs blatantly against the current standardized format - so unless you're going to take responsibility for changing ''every'' stone page to fit this format, you should hold off. (You deleted the Template - it was made for a reason, so a User can glance at a similar page and compare/contrast at a glance - impossible with this monster.) You should also hold off on such a radical change until bouncing it off a discussion page or three - see current conversation on the Main Page.--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 09:38, 21 May 2009 (UTC)

:::This page contains all generic info on sedimentary stone. I suggest the generic info be kept in the sedimentary article, with the chalk-specific info either here, or in a flux stone subsection on the sedimentary page, and in a sub-subsection on chalk. --[[User:Nahno|Nahno]] 13:55, 21 May 2009 (UTC)

::::Better to make changes to the template (Please test them before going live), and then discuss the changes. My major concern is that my mental AdBlock will filter out anything shaped like a banner going down the side of the page- Perhaps we could change the template to put more information in the main part of the page? [[User:Decius|Decius]] 22:53, 21 May 2009 (UTC)

File:An Unexpected Party.jpg

2009-08-26T22:50:04Z

Arkenstone: The Hobbit in DF. See forum for details. http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=40894

The Hobbit in DF. See forum for details.
http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=40894

File:The Hobbit.jpg

2009-08-24T19:13:52Z

Arkenstone: The Hobbit in DF, Part 1

The Hobbit in DF, Part 1

40d Talk:Magma

2009-08-20T18:10:45Z

Arkenstone: /* Items Caught In Cooling Magma */

==Steel?==
Are you certain that steel is a requirement for metals in contact with magma? This info conflicts with the [[Magma smelter]] article, which state that using [[Fire-safe materials]] is enough. Don't have a fort with magma yet, but could someone check which one is correct?[[User:Thexor|Thexor]] 19:23, 31 October 2007 (EDT)
:Magmaproof is not the same as fireproof. Buildings that work WITH magma need to be fireproof. Rocks and iron are fireproof. Wood is not. Buildings that are going IN the magma, such as floodgates, their mechanisms, and pumps need to be magmaproof materials such as steel and bauxite. [[User:Rkyeun|Rkyeun]] 01:51, 13 July 2009 (UTC)

==Disabling temperature?==
If i disable temperature can my dwarfs swim through the magma unharmed? Will it still cause water to steam? [[User:Diabl0658|Diabl0658]] 22:28, 31 October 2007 (EDT)
: Yes, dwarves seem to be able to swim through magma unharmed when temperature is off(I've had them shoved in during a fight, not 100% sure), but they'll violently resist this, even without danger. Water will still steam, it seems to be hard coded. --[[User:Erathoniel|Erathoniel]] 16:50, 12 November 2008 (EST)

==Mountain Layers & magma?==
Does the type of rock around the mountainous areas hint at magma? If you check out [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volcanic_rocks#Naming this article] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Igneous_rock#Mineralogical_classification this site] list a bunch of common volcanic rocks: Granite, Rhyolite, Diorite, Andesite, Gabbro, Basalt, Peridotite and Komatite. Perhaps some clues as to where to find magma?
:It may be possible to find magma vents by searching for extrusive igneous rocks (such as basalt, felsite, rhyolite and andesite), but continental shelves and deep earth are just naturally made of intrusive igneous rock (such as granite, diorite and gabbro). It's generally indicative of rock that has been pushed up to the surface (or erosion has withered the rock down), and not a volcano.
::So areas with surface igneous rocks such as basalt, felsite, rhyolite and andesite have a high chance of finding a source of magma below the surface? I'd like to know if it's entirely random or if there is some order or pattern to it. [[User:Schm0|Schm0]] 08:38, 5 November 2007 (EST)

==magma chamber not visible==
On a completely different topic: I keep setting up on magma vents but not actually having a magma chamber visible. I assumed one problem was the lack of a border on my plot (so somehow the volcano was actually outside my plot), but even after making it bigger there was still no magma (...but it did have a fancy cave)...This has happened the last 4 times I've tried to start on a volcano, and the world regenerating takes quite a while for ~10 named volcanoes, and then all of the livable ones don't actually have magma.--[[User:UltimaGecko|UltimaGecko]] 16:50, 3 November 2007 (EDT)
:You might try using reveal.exe to see if the volcano is underground. I just built on a site with a volcano which was not visible from the surface, and used reveal to make sure I hadn't lost my mind (then I killed DF and restarted it so I wouldn't still have the map revealed) - The volcano was entirely underground, covered by layer(s) of rock. I've also added a note to the article saying that it is possible to find a volcano which is visible on the starting screen but not from the surface on-site.--[[User:SL|SL]] 21:54, 7 November 2007 (EST)
::I think this is related to the temperature of the area. I've got a map with a magma vent in the middle of a glacier. There was no surface magma, but there was a nice flat, round patch of obsidian surrounded by ice. After digging down three levels through this "cap", I hit live magma. It's actually a nice setup, as I've basically set up a small fort *in* the cap--basically my dwarves are living in the mouth of the volcano, with the basement level dedicated to magma smelters, forges, glass furnaces, etc. --[[User:RedKing|RedKing]] 04:26, 9 November 2007 (EST)
:::Turning on the "see magma pools and pipes" option in the init file would be a great help for trouble shooting on this topic.--[[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 12:44, 23 April 2009 (UTC)

== Magmapool/pipe section ==
Zara, you recently added some info about all magma pipes having cliffs over them -- this is incorrect. I've played a very large number of magma pipe maps, and very often they are completely exposed to the air. I've also removed the line about them being "as small as two z-levels!", because it needs better phrasing. I may fix it later. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 22:39, 26 February 2008 (EST)

:in the meantime I had figured that out, too. But what is the difference between a magma pipe and a volcano, then? – [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:Zara|Zara]]

::As far as I know, the distinction comes down to whether it reaches the surface. If so, some would then call it a volcano rather than a magma pipe. I believe that magma pipes which reach the surface (or volcanoes, if you will) are the only ones which actually show up on the embark map, while underground magma pipes and magma pools do not (unless you use the Regional Prospector tool). --[[User:Janus|Janus]] 23:07, 10 March 2008 (EDT)

:::No, similar to Moonanibe,I've played on several maps where, on the embark screen, the magma pipe was only visible using regional prospector. However, as soon as I took a look at the place, I found the magma partly (or completely) exposed on the surface. [[User:Zara|Zara]] 01:59, 11 March 2008 (EDT)
::::Magma pipes are not 'necessarily' part of a mountain, while volcanoes make a mountain around them during world gen. Comes down to a number game. Volcanoes have a magma number of 100, while pipes have a number between 99 and some lower value.--[[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 12:48, 23 April 2009 (UTC)

== Added new section ==
I added a section regarding "Built objects vs. Magma". I think it's absolutely vital we establish what does and doesn't melt in magma, in a clean list. There are quite a few things that could be added to that list (Constructed floors for one) so please, do add to it. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 17:31, 18 February 2008 (EST)
:Have you tested the bridges? I conjecture that all buildings and constructions without mechanisms are perfectly fine with magma contact. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 10:37, 19 February 2008 (EST)
:: The bridges part was cut from another section of the article and moved in there. Since it was already here, I assumed it was accurate. I haven't actually checked myself. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 16:54, 19 February 2008 (EST)
:I will verify bridges one way or the other. I'm pretty sure they cant melt, though. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 21:03, 19 February 2008 (EST)
::they dont melt, as they arent actually within the magma. that was copied over from the 2d wiki and nobody removed it -[[User:Chariot|Chariot]] 22:29, 19 February 2008 (EST)
::: I noticed you removed the line about bridges. It seems silly not to mention them at all, so I've written up a line about them working no matter what the material and stuck it in. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 23:12, 19 February 2008 (EST)
::::yea they should definately be mentioned, wasnt thinking when i removed it completely(recovering from a bad cold and brain is still a bit foggy) -[[User:Chariot|Chariot]] 00:49, 20 February 2008 (EST)
Tested. Non-magmaiproof bridges -over- magma are fine. Non-magma-proof submerged in magma will melt. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:39, 21 February 2008 (EST)
: Interesting. I'll edit the article to say as much. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 15:30, 21 February 2008 (EST)
This is what I've found: ANY Construction is safe from magma (even wooden ones. Walls, stairs, fortifications, etc). Any building is unaffected by magma if the magma doesn't occupy the same tile as the building. Example: a door is safe if it's closed, even if it's made of non-safe rock or wood. If you lock it open with a mechanism, or if it's jammed, then the magma interacts with the components, burning/melting them if they can't stand the heat. A pump made of wood or any other material is also safe, as long as the magma doesn't flow *over* it. Since the "out" side acts as a wall, if it's correctly isolated from the magma it won't get damaged and will pump the magma without any trouble. --[[User:Sergius|Sergius]] 01:41, 21 May 2008 (EDT)

Anyone clear on Vertical Bars in magma? I am attempting to keep imps and such from moving through my magma feeding tunnel and was curious if anyone had any good solutions to this problem. --[[User:Stalinbulldog|Stalinbulldog]] 16:23, 14 June 2008 (EDT)

:I just use a bauxite wall grate, it works fine for me. --[[User:Zombiejustice|Zombiejustice]] 01:02, 15 June 2008 (EDT)
:: Ah, thank you, I just wanted to be sure they didn't melt regardless --[[User:Stalinbulldog|Stalinbulldog]] 02:32, 15 June 2008 (EDT)
 
I made a few tests with magma and buildings/constructions and I can confirm some known results and I can provide a few new aspects. Constructions (b->C) are magma safe (walls, floors, stairs, others not tested). No matter what the material is.
*<s>bridges build with bauxite *rocks* are not magma safe (bauxite mechanism or not)</s>
*bridges build with bauxite *blocks* are magma safe (test with mechanism is pending)
*bridges build with steel bars are magma safe (test with mechanism is pending)
Open test: bridge with blocks considered as not magma safe.
 [[User:Imajia|Imajia]] 12:14, 11 July 2008 (EDT)
::I'm sorry, I made a mistake. The bridges build with bauxite rocks were previously connected with a lever. Unfortunately the mechanism is not removed from the bridge when you remove the lever. Well, at least it seems that the rules for magma safe materials are valid for bridges. With one exception: raised bridges can contain any mechanism, only when magma flows over the bridge it is destroyed.--[[User:Imajia|Imajia]] 13:18, 13 July 2008 (EDT)

== Replenishing Magma ==

Since magma replenishes now, I've rewritten that snippet from the article. If I've missed something(a kind of magma not regenerating, though this always worked for me on several maps), feel free to correct things. --[[User:Romantic Warrior|Romantic Warrior]] 15:47, 18 February 2008 (EST).

I have a very good feeling that the replenishing magma is just "pressurized" magma. I haven't tested fully, but i have poured water over a magma pipe and re-mined it, and in that case the magma flow was upwards. --[[User:Sphexx|Sphexx]] 03:49, 23 May 2008 (EDT)

== Temperature ==

Does magma increase the temperature of things around it? Can it be used to melt ice? --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 20:26, 3 November 2007 (EDT)

:I'm not sure how the temperature calculations are done, but I CAN tell you that magma will melt nearby ice. Check out http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-153-meltingwateronglacier to see it in action. [[User:Zaranthan|Zaranthan]] 15:23, 26 January 2008 (EST)

::It should be a flow, just like the magma itself. One of the other visible results is warm stone. The same can probably be said for water and damp stone as well. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 17:01, 26 January 2008 (EST)

::It also makes sure water stays heated; a friend of mine keeps magma under a few of his natural pools to make sure they stay thawed during the cold winter months (all but the middle summer month!) --Gotthard 17:45, 12 July 2009 (UTC)

==Flow?==

I have a magma pipe (pit) in my current fortress... I breached the pipe from the lowest level because of the diagonal bug when I discovered it, and it filled some long exploratory shafts. Since then, the top magma layer is down to 5/7 and 6/7 running all over the surface. After a little while, it's easy to see that magma act curiously: instead of bouncing from wall to wall like real water physics, in my game the 5/7 (the flow) seems to all move in the same direction at the same time. The direction change often, and seem to change randomly. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 22:43, 26 November 2007 (EST)

There is another way to stop a flow of magma that's moving through a tunnel. You can go one z-level higher, dig to a spot above the magma-filled tunnel, then build a channel above where the magma is flowing and assign it as a Pond Zone. So long as you have buckets and a viable Water Source zone, a dwarf will come along and drop water on the magma, instantly turning it into obsidian and blocking the tunnel. --[[User:Stromko]] January 6th, 2007
: I've tried this - it rarely works. Usually you just destroy 1/7 of the magma per bucket, along with the water from the bucket, and nothing turns to obsidian. You need to hit it with larger quantities of water at once to get reliable results. --[[User:SL|SL]] 10:35, 6 January 2008 (EST)
::Actually, you have to hit it from two levels up. Just one won't do anything.--[[User:Demosthenes|Demosthenes]] 17:07, 18 February 2008 (EST)

I have added a section to the main page on magma flow, based on frequent confusion in the forums, and on some investigations I have been making into the behavior of magma when pumped (I'm not the first to discover this behavior, but I did go to a fair degree of effort to test how it behaves in differing circumstances) --[[User:Kaypy|Kaypy]] 21:16, 8 October 2008 (EDT)
:Now THAT is how you make a diagram! Awesome. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 22:20, 8 October 2008 (EDT)

==Criteria for Magma Buildings==

Is there a special condition that must be met before Magma Smelters/Forges/Furnaces and so on will appear on the build menus? I have a magma pit and some channels over it so that I can access it for magma, but I cannot build any magma-using buildings. - [[User:Confused Rat|Confused Rat]]

:Magma furnaces and forges need a hole somewhere on the ground where they are built. This is to allow the furnace/forge to take the heat from the magma as they are used. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 19:43, 25 January 2008 (EST)

:What he means is that the magma furnaces don't even appear in the build menu. This is because you haven't discovered magma through natural means. The only way this can happen is if you used reveal to find the magma. You'll have to use the [[Utilities#Enable_Magma_Buildings|Enable Magma Buildings]] utility to make them appear. --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 20:03, 25 January 2008 (EST)

:Reclaimed fortresses may be bugged. If you reclaimed you fortress you probably can't do anything with it without 3rd party programs (like one mentioned above). Magma in [[pit]]s isn't enough to allow magma buildings. You need to discover true magma pipe and get pop-up informing about this. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 08:37, 23 May 2008 (EDT)

:I had a similar problem in a human settlement, so I do not know if the bug applies there, too... but there IS a chance I abandoned and reclaimed at one point, so it could just be that --[[User:Zatnik|Zatnik]] 05:02, 7 January 2009 (EST)

== Infinity Generators? ==

Because magma is currently a finite resource, would it be a good idea to add how to make an infinity generator as workarround untill Toady gives us some more of the stuff?—Preceding [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment added by [[User:Highlord Asehujiko|Highlord Asehujiko]] ([[User talk:Highlord Asehujiko|talk]]•[[Special:Contributions/Highlord Asehujiko|contribs]]) {{{2|}}}
:Not on the main article as it would easily be considered cheating. In here, or the [[cheating]] article itself would be fine, the latter probably more appropriate as it could be applied to water as well for those scorching maps. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 19:16, 27 January 2008 (EST)
::Magma regenerates in most cases, which pretty much means it's infinite. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 19:19, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

== Lava vs. Magma ==

I hadn't noticed it until just now, but both Lava and Magma occur in the game. I haven't seen this fact referenced in the wiki. Magma is a fluid which occurs in Magma Pipes, and in areas directly connected to Magma Pipes. Lava appears to occur in disconnected areas. I'm not sure what happens if you reconnect. If you use {{k|k}} to view a square, you'll see either Magma or Lava depths given. I'm not clear on what difference there is between the two fluids. --[[User:Doctorlucky|Doctorlucky]] 02:58, 23 March 2008 (EDT)

:There is none, just the name. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 10:30, 23 March 2008 (EDT)

::both in df, and irl, molten rock in open air is called lava, while subterranean is called magma -[[User:Chariot|Chariot]] 15:40, 23 March 2008 (EDT)

::: Ah, so magma which is ''Outside'' is lava. Cool. I guess my disjoint areas are all also outside :) I suppose we ought to mention this somewhere on the page? --[[User:Doctorlucky|Doctorlucky]] 19:19, 23 March 2008 (EDT)

== Magma vs puppy? ==

I have encountered an interesting glitch. I have 2 puppies and a kitten in magma that aren't dying, and yes I have temperature setting on. http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-570-magmavspuppy

For those interested in trying to recreate it, I believe it has to do with designating the animal to slaughter while trying to throw it into a pit. A few of my dwarves were having pathing errors to try and slaughter them when I noticed the 3 invulnerable pests. After saving and reloading, the critters were insta-gibbed.
--[[User:Sphexx|Sphexx]] 04:59, 23 May 2008 (EDT)

== Chasm Confusion ==

"The minerals directly adjacent to the magma vent will also be immediately visible, even at the lowest level of the map, which can give some hints about where to prospect for ores."

Magma, at least in my experience, has always been surrounded only by Obsidian, as a result you cannot get any kind of insight as to the surrounding minerals, this differs from a chasm where the veins coming up to a chasm are directly reflected in the walls.

--[[User:Stalinbulldog|Stalinbulldog]] 04:18, 26 July 2008 (EDT)
:volcanoes and magmapipes can form large "chasms" above them, though it depends on how rocky the map is
:Confirmed, various minerals and gems were visible in the 'crater' area two levels above the magma in my magma pipe. --[[User:Corona688|Corona688]] 15:05, 5 November 2008 (EST)

== gruesome accident in older 2d version ==

beware wooden floodgates
not only do they burn(as I planned)
but i scattered magma all around the room
it rolled around quickly in all directions, flooding the tunnels, burning miners, smelters, war dogs and puppies alike without remorse.
it has thus far filled the entire message screen with " someone" or "something" has burned to death
it appears to gain mass from creeping down hallways! oh god...
60 deaths, at least 25 dwarves and 15 puppies22:08, 28 July 2008 (EDT)[[User:Eerr|Eerr]]

== Magma cooling? ==

Ive noticed at a 1/7 depth, the magma seems to cool and go away. v40d --[[User:OmegaX|OmegaX]] 17:28, 3 October 2008 (EDT)

: That is probably what the author meant by "Magma that is only 1 deep "evaporates" over time." [[User:MagicGuigz|MagicGuigz]] 19:58, 3 October 2008 (EDT)

== Mechanisms on Non-Floodgates ==

I want to power my underground smelting operations with magma, so I'm digging a tunnel into the side of a magma pipe. I don't want magma creatures coming in that way, so I need a set of [[bars]] across it. However, once I set up the bars, I need to open them to get a miner past and cut the last bit of stone and open the tunnel to the magma. I was going to just attach the bars to a level, but the question of what to use for the [[mechanism]] is bugging me. I don't want to waste my precious imported [[Bauxite]] on the mechanism, and once it closes behind the miner it never need to open again so it's fine it it melts, but not if the melting mechanism will cause the bars to deconstruct! Anyone know what happens to things other than floodgates when their mechanisms get melted off?
--17:11, 7 October 2008 (EDT)

: Or you could make your life much simpler with [[Fortification]]s. [[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 23:09, 14 October 2008 (EDT)

:: How? [[Fortification]]s allow liquid to pass through and stop creatures, yes, but you can't open them ''at all''. How am I supposed to get my dwarf back after he digs the last square of the channel if there's a fortification blocking the way?--[[User:Macdjord|Macdjord]] 15:49, 16 October 2008 (EDT)

:::I used a fortification to keep fire imps out of my magma channel; I dug a stairway totally unconnected to the rest of my fortress to a spot adjacent to the top layer of the magma pipe, then dug a tunnel from within the fortress to within one tile of the stairway. I fortified the tile that separated the two, then dug a channel (from outside) that let the magma flow against the "outside" face of the fortification. The magma flowed through the fortification and into the "inside" tunnel.

:::For good measure, in case I want to drain the inside tunnel at some point, I put an s-turn in the inside tunnel and situated a nickel/bauxite floodgate around the corner, out of sight of the fortification.

:::Viewed from above, basically it looks like this:

~============
~~=====..X...
~~=====.=====
~~=<#...=====
~~===========
~============

~ - Magma pipe
= - Unmined tile (wall)
. - Mined tile (channel)
< - Stairway
# - Fortification
X - Floodgate

:::The last step here is to remove the tile between the magma and the stairway by digging a channel from one z-level up.
:::--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 03:16, 17 October 2008 (EDT)
::::Why do you need a stairway? Couldn't you have just put the fortification on the tile where you have the stairway now? I'm also not sure why you need a turn as opposed to having the floodgate directly in line; i.e. {{qd|cols=7|~|`|╬|{{qd/ch{{!}}X{{!}}888|ccc}}|.|.|.}}
::::[[User:Random832|Random832]] 08:55, 17 October 2008 (EDT)

:::::I believe you can't create a fortification from above, though I could be wrong. It doesn't cost anything to dig one extra z-level down to get yourself a tile with an open face front and back which fortifies up nicely. Also, I put the kink in the tunnel just to be paranoid -- I don't want things shooting fireballs down it. I'm not sure if a fireball can destroy a floodgate. Again, it didn't cost me anything to make it a touch more elaborate.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 18:29, 17 October 2008 (EDT)

::::Well, if I dug in from above, I could just use a non-retracting set of bars. Fortifications allow liquid to flow, but they slow it down. But I'm not digging at the top level of the pipe. I suppose I could just use a sacrificial non-magma-safe floodgate, set up the bars behind it, and then open it and let it melt.
::::--[[User:Macdjord|Macdjord]] 13:20, 17 October 2008 (EDT)

== Magma Ate My Wall ==
While digging my channel to a magma pipe, I came across a vein of Lignite which ran perpendicular to my channel. I mined it out, hauled the lignite over to my fortress, and then built some walls over the side passages. It's now less than a year later, and one of those wall-units is missing. Unless there's some way a fire imp or other magma creature can destroy walls, the magma must have melted the wall. --[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 07:12, 5 November 2008 (EST)

:Wasn't that wall a Lignite wall ? It may have burnt, then. [[User:Timst|Timst]] 09:46, 5 November 2008 (EST)
:Yes, it sounds like it was a liginite wall. Magma will ignite coke-bearing rock, this has been the case for a long time. --[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 09:56, 5 November 2008 (EST)

:: No, the wall was built from rock salt. All the lignite was hauled away, and as an economic stone, not a material choice I could have made by accident. The floor is still lignite though. Think that may have been a factor? --[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 09:58, 5 November 2008 (EST)
:::That's possible, but I find it unlikely. Also, I misinterpreted what you meant by 'built a wall', didn't realize it was a construction. I thought it was a smoothed rock face. It's been a persisting question (at least in #df on synIRC) if magma will melt constructions not made of bauxite. You may have just answered that for us. Perhaps you could test by letting magma into a 5x5 room with one natural rock pillar in the middle, and a wall construction of the same type of stone? That'd answer the question once and for all, I think. --[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 10:11, 5 November 2008 (EST)
:::I've had magma against some of my constructed walls for years and years without damage. A good thing too, I've got quarters on the other side! They're almost certainly basalt. I wouldn't rule out the vanishing wall being caused by a burning floor; lignite can burn for years before vanishing. --[[User:Corona688|Corona688]] 15:14, 5 November 2008 (EST)
::::Interesting. It was probably the liginite floor, then, but that begs the question of how a burning floor could consume a wall; stone should be fire-safe. A really interesting situation, to be sure. --[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 17:26, 5 November 2008 (EST)
:::Also -- as for 'not a material choice I could have made by accident', I've found my masons will happily convert expensive imported ores and flux into blocks if they decide your depot's closer than the nearest basalt. And once anything's blocked, it's useless but for constructions. --[[User:Corona688|Corona688]] 16:39, 5 November 2008 (EST)

::::: @Corona: That's for a mason's workshop, though. When you build walls, you choose the specific rocks to build from. Although, I have to say that I've never had a mason use a rock from the restricted list.
::::: For clarity, here's an image capture. The east-west shaft was my original tunnel towards the magma pipe. Every mined-out tile north or south of that shaft was Lignite. However, the opening just below the cursor, where my missing wall is supposed to be, is listed as Rock Salt as well. This is because dwarves kept building that section of wall from the wrong side, and I had to deconstruct it and put it back up several times -- which kills our "burning lignite floor" theory. Hrm.....now that I think about it, I can't be sure that I did build that wall in the end. I can't remember if a dwarf ever built it from the correct side. I'll let you know if another wall section disappears.
[[Image:romeofalling1.GIF]]

--[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 18:54, 5 November 2008 (EST)

== Disambiguation ==

I see the term ''magma pipe'' and ''magma vent'' being used interchangeably. Do these terms mean the same thing? --[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 20:25, 8 November 2008 (EST)

:Basically, yes. Magma vents, however, are visible from the surface, whereas magma pipes are not. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 00:26, 9 November 2008 (EST)

== Magma Vs. Sand ==

In a failed experiment with wooden screw pumps with magma proof blocks, I have discovered something horrible and intriguing. Magma/lava can burn it's way through sand, so now I have an above ground magma cistern half flooding back into the magma pipe I filled it from, and half into my underground workshops through 2 z-levels of sand flooring. I have picture proof too, but I have no idea how to upload pictures from my laptop to a wiki. --[[User:Alkyon|Alkyon]] 14:19, 11 November 2008 (EST)

:"Upload file", toolbox, left side of this page.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 14:34, 11 November 2008 (EST)
::Ah, thanks. --[[User:Alkyon|Alkyon]] 20:12, 11 November 2008 (EST)

Do you mean it goes down z-levels, or does it just move across the sand? magma can normally move across anything except water, I think. --[[User:Destor|Destor]] 14:41, 11 November 2008 (EST)
:Vertically, through z-levels. It created a hole that wasn't there before through a sand floor, into my main hallway, and then through the floor there into my workshops and stockpiles. From there, it simply followed the path of least resistance down the stairs and into the living quarters (not shown). The magma seems to only tunnel through floor tiles that have no wall tile below them, which is understandable but I've never had this happen before. Though, admittedly I have never tried to create a lava cistern on top of sand before. --[[User:Alkyon|Alkyon]] 20:12, 11 November 2008 (EST)
<gallery>
Image:DF-0.JPG|Above ground (sorry for large size despite jpeg compression)
Image:DF-1.JPG|1 z-level down (main hallway)
Image:DF-2.JPG|2 z-levels down (workshops and rock, bar, and wood stockpiles)
</gallery>
:::Oh what [[Losing|FUN!]] --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]]

== Regarding Boatmurdered ==

I have this intense desire to flood the world in magma. (yes, I'm playing the 2D Dwarf Fortress. Sue me.) How did they get the magma onto the surface? Last I checked, pumps don't exist, sooo... --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 02:45, 28 November 2008 (EST)
:Channels and aqueducts... They'll transport any liquid anywhere. And bridges too!--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]]
::But magma's on the "Z-level" below. How's it supposed to get on the actual level of the elephants? --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 13:50, 28 November 2008 (EST)
:::You're still thinking in 3D. Magma is "in" the tiles where the river is, and will be in the tiles where you dig a channel, and you want to get it in the tiles where the elephants are, by digging a channel from the magma river to the outside and "releasing" it from the channel using a floodgate. The miner who digs the part of the channel that connects it to the magma river itself might get killed, since they always stood ''in'' the channel square while digging it in the 2D version. Put a floodgate just beyond it before digging it out so you can shut off the flow, since you will make mistakes.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 16:36, 28 November 2008 (EST)
::::Yes, I realize I'm thinking in 3D. Exactly how does the magma get out of the channel and onto the ground? Because last I checked, fluids didn't do that naturally. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 18:44, 28 November 2008 (EST)
:::::That's just the way the 2D version works. Channel next to liquid = liquid now in channel. Tile at end of channel not floodgate (or other liquid stopper) = liquid now on ground. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 18:47, 28 November 2008 (EST)

:::::Read [http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Channel#Game_mechanics Channel] and [http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Irrigation#Controlled_flooding Irrigation] on the archive wiki. You have to play with channels and floodgates for a bit before it all makes sense, though. The 2D version tended to get real kludgy when it came to fluids. Try to get a farm going to understand the basics of the 2D channels, floodgates, and fluids.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 23:07, 28 November 2008 (EST)

== No little errors ==

I just made a discovery. There is nothing like small error in the terms of magma engineering. After attempting to make my lava moat, I accidentally dug channel one tile longer, than it should be. At first, it went good. But then, magma flowed over my wall and flooded entire fortress. Remember - no little errors. [[User:SanDiego|SanDiego]] 12:19, 30 November 2008 (EST)

== Export the local map ==

"...you can try exporting the local map of the world which can be much more quickly searched for the distinctive red ≈ symbol. " How does one do that? --[[User:Azaram|Azaram]] 02:08, 4 December 2008 (EST)
:Right after generating your world, there is an option to export the map. I think it maps to 'p' but I can't swear to it now. I don't know if there is a way to do it at a time other than right after generation. -[[User:Fuzzy|Fuzzy]] 14:45, 4 December 2008 (EST)
::Legends screen lets you export maps as well, but they don't have the special features enabled, even with all applicable options enabled. Probably on the todo list 'somewhere', but can't imagine it's even semi-important. So you'll have to rely on worldgen exports. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 22:02, 4 December 2008 (EST)

::I thought it was just the region map you can export, not the local map, and a red ≈ just means desert and/or red sand on that map. You can see named volcanoes on it though -- red ^s.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 22:16, 4 December 2008 (EST)

::It's mapped to "P". Capital. [[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 21:01, 12 February 2009 (EST)

== Temperature setting ==

While magma will not cause fires while the temperature is turned off in the init file, it seems the game remembers at least some of the fires it would have caused. I was playing with temperature off and tunneled into magma rather carelessly, knowing it wouldn't hurt me, later, when I turned the temperature on in that game, the dwarves that came into contact with the magma were immediately set on fire. This was about a year later in game. I checked back several times by quitting without saving, every time I turned the temperature on, those same dwarves caught fire, with the temperature off, there was no indication of fire what so ever.--[[User:Sotanaht|Sotanaht]] 23:36, 23 January 2009 (EST)

:Oh wow, I can imagine tons of uses for that, especially when toady makes it so that you can go and raid the goblins... Kamikaze dwarves, anyone? Well, I guess it should be in the article, but it would be nice to do more testing first. I think that if a dwarf falls in water, he stops burning. So if you could find out if they, after being put out with temperature off, still lit up next time we could put it in. Do more research, I would but I have had trouble with DF lately, it has been mad slow.--[[User:Destor|Destor]] 00:01, 24 January 2009 (EST)

::Well, temperatures are flows, and items remember how warm they are, so presumably the dwarves that burst into flames are still at a ridiculous temperature and haven't cooled down. That, or the coating of magma on their bodies is causing them to burn...--[[User:Quil|Quil]] 00:36, 24 January 2009 (EST)

::: It has got to be the coating, as you say. Turning off the tempurature means that they should STOP remembering. The flows should not be calculated, and the items should have nothing to remember. Thats why turning it off speeds up the game, especially in extreme environs or around magma. There was, however, nothing listed that I could find, so this "magma coating" is invisible to the interface. It should also be noted that it was apparently the dwarves who caught fire first, and their burning flesh that apparently set their clothes on fire moments later.--[[User:Sotanaht|Sotanaht]] 12:29, 24 January 2009 (EST)

::::Check specifically for magma splatters on the dwarfs in question. I wouldn't be surprised if they picked them up, similar to when creatures get doused in water. The liquid tends to stick all over them, and rarely goes away on it's own. Best bet to preserve them would be to construct a waterfall-shower, and hope it washes away the magma spatter, rather than creating obsidian ;) --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 07:11, 25 January 2009 (EST)
:::::Yer, looks like the dawrfs got their Pigtail socks a coating of magma. Then magma goes boom.--[[User:Cultiststeve|cultiststeve]] 08:08, 19 February 2009 (EST)

==Site finder==

Will magma Pipes always show up on the local map? Because my site finder keeps throwing up sites with no visible magma on the local map. --[[User:ArneHD|ArneHD]] 17:09, 12 February 2009 (EST)

:No, magma pipes don't always reach the surface, and therefore won't always show up on the embark map. You can find out it's actual location by taking a guess based off of what stone layers are shown where in the embark map, or you can go to your init.txt and change SHOW_EMBARK_M_PIPE to ALWAYS. --[[User:Alkyon|Alkyon]] 17:29, 12 February 2009 (EST)

== Magma-swimming Baby ==

For some reason, someone has dropped their baby into the magma. The strange thing is, it aint burning up. Its lying there, and apparently has done so for a long time. Its hungry and thirsty. --[[User:Myroc|Myroc]] 15:26, 21 February 2009 (EST)
:I once had a mother get trapped behind a magma bulkhead with her baby. She died promptly. The baby just sorta sat in the magma flow for about a year before it died too. [[User:HeWhoIsPale|HeWhoIsPale]] 16:40, 21 February 2009 (EST)

== Spawn Distance For Creatures? ==

How far from the magma pipe can fire snakes (and imps, if they spawn) appear? Also, are they limited to spawning near the magma pipe itself, or ANY magma (i.e., a magma tap leading across the map into your fortress)?
:The pipe itself--[[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 23:51, 14 April 2009 (UTC)

== Hidden Magma Pipe ==
So I just got the message 'You have discovered a magma pipe.' This made me very happy, because I had no idea that magma was on my map, and the area is completely devoid of trees, which means I won't have to worry about charcoal as much. Anywhos, after getting the message and looking around the level... I can't find it anywhere! I assumed that you get the message when your dwarf mines a tile next to the pipe or something, but I can't find it anywhere, not even on the local map. Magma forges are enabled, so that must mean that I did find one... But is there any way of finding the darn thing? I assumed it was from some of my exploratory mining, but after looking around that area and even digging further into the rock, I don't see anything. Is it possible that the magma pipe is off the level or something, so I get the message but can't see it? Arg, this is so annoying. --[[User:ZombieRoboNinja|ZombieRoboNinja]] 00:34, 5 May 2009 (UTC)

:Try zooming in on any magma related creatures from the units menu. You could also zoom in on the newest (last) obsidian stone listed on the stocks menu I think. --[[User:Elvang|Elvang]] 04:21, 5 May 2009 (UTC)

:Check for a [[Magma#Using_magma|Magma Cap]]. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 09:12, 5 May 2009 (UTC)

::I tried looking at the units list... Only a couple dead kobolds, a few camels, and my dwarves... So that's a no go. And there are 15 obsidian stones in my stocks, but the zoom function is grayed out... And my bookkeeper is at 100% efficiency. I also tried looking for a magma cap, but I couldn't find one. Aha! Success! I made an obsidian stockpile, and watched where my all-knowing dwarves went, and I found the source of the obsidian. I tried digging from that point, and I found it! It's a bit small, but I suppose the diameter doesn't matter much when it's a magma pipe. Thanks for your help, guys. Also, I know that talk pages aren't meant to be used as forums or anything, but is it against the rules and/or frowned upon to ask questions on the talk pages?

::: It's fine, it might even be a good thing, since we can add other tidbit of information to a main article if needed. Feel free to ask question (as long as it is in the appropriate place. --[[User:Karl|Karl]] 13:19, 5 May 2009 (UTC)

== Items Caught In Cooling Magma ==
After one of my wrestlers got pulled into a magma vent, I noticed that his Steel equipment only sank a single Z level. This brings up the idea that, if I were to pour water over the surface and harden that Z level, I could presumably recover the equipment. But will items caught in hardening magma be destroyed? Or merely trapped in obsidian that you can mine out? --[[User:Scarecrow|Scarecrow]] 16:37, 5 May 2009 (UTC)

:Hm, good question. Wouldn't it make sense that the item just gets trapped, and you just have to mine out the hardened rock to get the item back? That is, if it's resistant to magma and/or the temperature's off. Right? Why would cooling the magma destroy the object? Unless the game had it coded where like, a tile of stone being created removes all the items from the block. Which would suck. --[[User:ZombieRoboNinja|ZombieRoboNinja]] 17:48, 9 May 2009 (UTC)

:: Items lost in rivers or moats can be recovered by mining the ice in winter. It is not unreasonable to assume that magma/obsidian behaves like water/ice in this respect. This begs testing, obviously. --[[User:Aykavil|Aykavil]] 21:07, 6 May 2009 (UTC)

:::Tested this by a) dropping (non-magma safe) rocks into a river and then pouring in Lava, they were recoverable. b) putting a couple of similar rocks as well as a nickel-silver bar and a constructed nickle-silver bridge into a room, letting enough magma in to cover the floor, and then adding water before the rocks had melted. All items were recoverable and the bridge was still intact after digging it out. --[[User:Mael|Mael]] 00:08, 15 July 2009 (UTC)

::::Nice! That means my Obsidian Tomb trap concept just got a lot better! --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 14:10, 20 August 2009

== Flies spawning from magma? ==

I don't know why, but I've observed flies (normal and acorn flies, mostly normal flies) spawning at the edge of magma where its melting rock. It's particularily noticeable when you have magma channels under your forging area since the confined space tends to concentrate them. Also, they will come out of any magma access holes you have dug. I'm using the Mayday graphics mod, so no idea if it's an artifact. My theory is that they represent vapors coming out of the magma as it melts the rock it encounters. I also added this fact to the flies page as well. --[[User:Smjjames|Smjjames]] 14:14, 13 May 2009 (UTC)

== Digging into volcano wall ==

While the article says you need unbelievably fast to avoid getting incinierated while digging into the obsidian wall, this doesn't seem to be true. More important than speed is to make sure the digger has a designated mining section a few blocks away to immiedately start working on so he doesn't get that split second pause before switching labor. With this method I got a miner with merely "agile" out safely. [[User:Greep|Greep]] 04:48, 14 July 2009 (UTC)

== digging away the obsidian ==

There's something that I've not been able to find an answer for anywhere, which is if I dig away at the obsidian walls of the magma pipe (without touching the very inner layer of obsidian), will magma thats above the obisidan tile be able to leak down or is there a floor under the magma tile (above the obsidian) that'll prevent it from spilling out? --[[User:Kain|Kain]] 21:26, 26 July 2009 (UTC)

:If there was a natural tile one z-level down, then there is a floor there. --[[User:Elvang|Elvang]] 00:06, 29 July 2009 (UTC)

== Producing Obsidian section ==

The example directly on the page is difficult to understand--some diagrams would be helpful. Really, detailed designs like that should be on user pages anyway. It would be swell if the person who added this design put it on their own user page and linked to that from here. --[[User:King of the Internet|King of the Internet]] 01:29, 9 August 2009 (UTC)
:Agreed, needs some simple diagram(s) (not over-specific, easily understood/modified to suit individual needs), but also needs to be 1) [[Character_table|standard notation]], and 2) on this page. If it's on a user page, other users really can't edit it if needed (for instance, to standardize the map symbols - the wall, specifically). --[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 18:07, 9 August 2009 (UTC)
:Edit - upon reflection, there's every reason to give this topic its own page. [[Obsidian farming]]. --[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 19:53, 9 August 2009 (UTC)

40d Talk:Magma

2009-08-20T18:02:04Z

Arkenstone: /* Magma Vs. Sand */

==Steel?==
Are you certain that steel is a requirement for metals in contact with magma? This info conflicts with the [[Magma smelter]] article, which state that using [[Fire-safe materials]] is enough. Don't have a fort with magma yet, but could someone check which one is correct?[[User:Thexor|Thexor]] 19:23, 31 October 2007 (EDT)
:Magmaproof is not the same as fireproof. Buildings that work WITH magma need to be fireproof. Rocks and iron are fireproof. Wood is not. Buildings that are going IN the magma, such as floodgates, their mechanisms, and pumps need to be magmaproof materials such as steel and bauxite. [[User:Rkyeun|Rkyeun]] 01:51, 13 July 2009 (UTC)

==Disabling temperature?==
If i disable temperature can my dwarfs swim through the magma unharmed? Will it still cause water to steam? [[User:Diabl0658|Diabl0658]] 22:28, 31 October 2007 (EDT)
: Yes, dwarves seem to be able to swim through magma unharmed when temperature is off(I've had them shoved in during a fight, not 100% sure), but they'll violently resist this, even without danger. Water will still steam, it seems to be hard coded. --[[User:Erathoniel|Erathoniel]] 16:50, 12 November 2008 (EST)

==Mountain Layers & magma?==
Does the type of rock around the mountainous areas hint at magma? If you check out [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volcanic_rocks#Naming this article] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Igneous_rock#Mineralogical_classification this site] list a bunch of common volcanic rocks: Granite, Rhyolite, Diorite, Andesite, Gabbro, Basalt, Peridotite and Komatite. Perhaps some clues as to where to find magma?
:It may be possible to find magma vents by searching for extrusive igneous rocks (such as basalt, felsite, rhyolite and andesite), but continental shelves and deep earth are just naturally made of intrusive igneous rock (such as granite, diorite and gabbro). It's generally indicative of rock that has been pushed up to the surface (or erosion has withered the rock down), and not a volcano.
::So areas with surface igneous rocks such as basalt, felsite, rhyolite and andesite have a high chance of finding a source of magma below the surface? I'd like to know if it's entirely random or if there is some order or pattern to it. [[User:Schm0|Schm0]] 08:38, 5 November 2007 (EST)

==magma chamber not visible==
On a completely different topic: I keep setting up on magma vents but not actually having a magma chamber visible. I assumed one problem was the lack of a border on my plot (so somehow the volcano was actually outside my plot), but even after making it bigger there was still no magma (...but it did have a fancy cave)...This has happened the last 4 times I've tried to start on a volcano, and the world regenerating takes quite a while for ~10 named volcanoes, and then all of the livable ones don't actually have magma.--[[User:UltimaGecko|UltimaGecko]] 16:50, 3 November 2007 (EDT)
:You might try using reveal.exe to see if the volcano is underground. I just built on a site with a volcano which was not visible from the surface, and used reveal to make sure I hadn't lost my mind (then I killed DF and restarted it so I wouldn't still have the map revealed) - The volcano was entirely underground, covered by layer(s) of rock. I've also added a note to the article saying that it is possible to find a volcano which is visible on the starting screen but not from the surface on-site.--[[User:SL|SL]] 21:54, 7 November 2007 (EST)
::I think this is related to the temperature of the area. I've got a map with a magma vent in the middle of a glacier. There was no surface magma, but there was a nice flat, round patch of obsidian surrounded by ice. After digging down three levels through this "cap", I hit live magma. It's actually a nice setup, as I've basically set up a small fort *in* the cap--basically my dwarves are living in the mouth of the volcano, with the basement level dedicated to magma smelters, forges, glass furnaces, etc. --[[User:RedKing|RedKing]] 04:26, 9 November 2007 (EST)
:::Turning on the "see magma pools and pipes" option in the init file would be a great help for trouble shooting on this topic.--[[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 12:44, 23 April 2009 (UTC)

== Magmapool/pipe section ==
Zara, you recently added some info about all magma pipes having cliffs over them -- this is incorrect. I've played a very large number of magma pipe maps, and very often they are completely exposed to the air. I've also removed the line about them being "as small as two z-levels!", because it needs better phrasing. I may fix it later. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 22:39, 26 February 2008 (EST)

:in the meantime I had figured that out, too. But what is the difference between a magma pipe and a volcano, then? – [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:Zara|Zara]]

::As far as I know, the distinction comes down to whether it reaches the surface. If so, some would then call it a volcano rather than a magma pipe. I believe that magma pipes which reach the surface (or volcanoes, if you will) are the only ones which actually show up on the embark map, while underground magma pipes and magma pools do not (unless you use the Regional Prospector tool). --[[User:Janus|Janus]] 23:07, 10 March 2008 (EDT)

:::No, similar to Moonanibe,I've played on several maps where, on the embark screen, the magma pipe was only visible using regional prospector. However, as soon as I took a look at the place, I found the magma partly (or completely) exposed on the surface. [[User:Zara|Zara]] 01:59, 11 March 2008 (EDT)
::::Magma pipes are not 'necessarily' part of a mountain, while volcanoes make a mountain around them during world gen. Comes down to a number game. Volcanoes have a magma number of 100, while pipes have a number between 99 and some lower value.--[[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 12:48, 23 April 2009 (UTC)

== Added new section ==
I added a section regarding "Built objects vs. Magma". I think it's absolutely vital we establish what does and doesn't melt in magma, in a clean list. There are quite a few things that could be added to that list (Constructed floors for one) so please, do add to it. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 17:31, 18 February 2008 (EST)
:Have you tested the bridges? I conjecture that all buildings and constructions without mechanisms are perfectly fine with magma contact. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 10:37, 19 February 2008 (EST)
:: The bridges part was cut from another section of the article and moved in there. Since it was already here, I assumed it was accurate. I haven't actually checked myself. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 16:54, 19 February 2008 (EST)
:I will verify bridges one way or the other. I'm pretty sure they cant melt, though. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 21:03, 19 February 2008 (EST)
::they dont melt, as they arent actually within the magma. that was copied over from the 2d wiki and nobody removed it -[[User:Chariot|Chariot]] 22:29, 19 February 2008 (EST)
::: I noticed you removed the line about bridges. It seems silly not to mention them at all, so I've written up a line about them working no matter what the material and stuck it in. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 23:12, 19 February 2008 (EST)
::::yea they should definately be mentioned, wasnt thinking when i removed it completely(recovering from a bad cold and brain is still a bit foggy) -[[User:Chariot|Chariot]] 00:49, 20 February 2008 (EST)
Tested. Non-magmaiproof bridges -over- magma are fine. Non-magma-proof submerged in magma will melt. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:39, 21 February 2008 (EST)
: Interesting. I'll edit the article to say as much. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 15:30, 21 February 2008 (EST)
This is what I've found: ANY Construction is safe from magma (even wooden ones. Walls, stairs, fortifications, etc). Any building is unaffected by magma if the magma doesn't occupy the same tile as the building. Example: a door is safe if it's closed, even if it's made of non-safe rock or wood. If you lock it open with a mechanism, or if it's jammed, then the magma interacts with the components, burning/melting them if they can't stand the heat. A pump made of wood or any other material is also safe, as long as the magma doesn't flow *over* it. Since the "out" side acts as a wall, if it's correctly isolated from the magma it won't get damaged and will pump the magma without any trouble. --[[User:Sergius|Sergius]] 01:41, 21 May 2008 (EDT)

Anyone clear on Vertical Bars in magma? I am attempting to keep imps and such from moving through my magma feeding tunnel and was curious if anyone had any good solutions to this problem. --[[User:Stalinbulldog|Stalinbulldog]] 16:23, 14 June 2008 (EDT)

:I just use a bauxite wall grate, it works fine for me. --[[User:Zombiejustice|Zombiejustice]] 01:02, 15 June 2008 (EDT)
:: Ah, thank you, I just wanted to be sure they didn't melt regardless --[[User:Stalinbulldog|Stalinbulldog]] 02:32, 15 June 2008 (EDT)
 
I made a few tests with magma and buildings/constructions and I can confirm some known results and I can provide a few new aspects. Constructions (b->C) are magma safe (walls, floors, stairs, others not tested). No matter what the material is.
*<s>bridges build with bauxite *rocks* are not magma safe (bauxite mechanism or not)</s>
*bridges build with bauxite *blocks* are magma safe (test with mechanism is pending)
*bridges build with steel bars are magma safe (test with mechanism is pending)
Open test: bridge with blocks considered as not magma safe.
 [[User:Imajia|Imajia]] 12:14, 11 July 2008 (EDT)
::I'm sorry, I made a mistake. The bridges build with bauxite rocks were previously connected with a lever. Unfortunately the mechanism is not removed from the bridge when you remove the lever. Well, at least it seems that the rules for magma safe materials are valid for bridges. With one exception: raised bridges can contain any mechanism, only when magma flows over the bridge it is destroyed.--[[User:Imajia|Imajia]] 13:18, 13 July 2008 (EDT)

== Replenishing Magma ==

Since magma replenishes now, I've rewritten that snippet from the article. If I've missed something(a kind of magma not regenerating, though this always worked for me on several maps), feel free to correct things. --[[User:Romantic Warrior|Romantic Warrior]] 15:47, 18 February 2008 (EST).

I have a very good feeling that the replenishing magma is just "pressurized" magma. I haven't tested fully, but i have poured water over a magma pipe and re-mined it, and in that case the magma flow was upwards. --[[User:Sphexx|Sphexx]] 03:49, 23 May 2008 (EDT)

== Temperature ==

Does magma increase the temperature of things around it? Can it be used to melt ice? --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 20:26, 3 November 2007 (EDT)

:I'm not sure how the temperature calculations are done, but I CAN tell you that magma will melt nearby ice. Check out http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-153-meltingwateronglacier to see it in action. [[User:Zaranthan|Zaranthan]] 15:23, 26 January 2008 (EST)

::It should be a flow, just like the magma itself. One of the other visible results is warm stone. The same can probably be said for water and damp stone as well. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 17:01, 26 January 2008 (EST)

::It also makes sure water stays heated; a friend of mine keeps magma under a few of his natural pools to make sure they stay thawed during the cold winter months (all but the middle summer month!) --Gotthard 17:45, 12 July 2009 (UTC)

==Flow?==

I have a magma pipe (pit) in my current fortress... I breached the pipe from the lowest level because of the diagonal bug when I discovered it, and it filled some long exploratory shafts. Since then, the top magma layer is down to 5/7 and 6/7 running all over the surface. After a little while, it's easy to see that magma act curiously: instead of bouncing from wall to wall like real water physics, in my game the 5/7 (the flow) seems to all move in the same direction at the same time. The direction change often, and seem to change randomly. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 22:43, 26 November 2007 (EST)

There is another way to stop a flow of magma that's moving through a tunnel. You can go one z-level higher, dig to a spot above the magma-filled tunnel, then build a channel above where the magma is flowing and assign it as a Pond Zone. So long as you have buckets and a viable Water Source zone, a dwarf will come along and drop water on the magma, instantly turning it into obsidian and blocking the tunnel. --[[User:Stromko]] January 6th, 2007
: I've tried this - it rarely works. Usually you just destroy 1/7 of the magma per bucket, along with the water from the bucket, and nothing turns to obsidian. You need to hit it with larger quantities of water at once to get reliable results. --[[User:SL|SL]] 10:35, 6 January 2008 (EST)
::Actually, you have to hit it from two levels up. Just one won't do anything.--[[User:Demosthenes|Demosthenes]] 17:07, 18 February 2008 (EST)

I have added a section to the main page on magma flow, based on frequent confusion in the forums, and on some investigations I have been making into the behavior of magma when pumped (I'm not the first to discover this behavior, but I did go to a fair degree of effort to test how it behaves in differing circumstances) --[[User:Kaypy|Kaypy]] 21:16, 8 October 2008 (EDT)
:Now THAT is how you make a diagram! Awesome. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 22:20, 8 October 2008 (EDT)

==Criteria for Magma Buildings==

Is there a special condition that must be met before Magma Smelters/Forges/Furnaces and so on will appear on the build menus? I have a magma pit and some channels over it so that I can access it for magma, but I cannot build any magma-using buildings. - [[User:Confused Rat|Confused Rat]]

:Magma furnaces and forges need a hole somewhere on the ground where they are built. This is to allow the furnace/forge to take the heat from the magma as they are used. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 19:43, 25 January 2008 (EST)

:What he means is that the magma furnaces don't even appear in the build menu. This is because you haven't discovered magma through natural means. The only way this can happen is if you used reveal to find the magma. You'll have to use the [[Utilities#Enable_Magma_Buildings|Enable Magma Buildings]] utility to make them appear. --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 20:03, 25 January 2008 (EST)

:Reclaimed fortresses may be bugged. If you reclaimed you fortress you probably can't do anything with it without 3rd party programs (like one mentioned above). Magma in [[pit]]s isn't enough to allow magma buildings. You need to discover true magma pipe and get pop-up informing about this. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 08:37, 23 May 2008 (EDT)

:I had a similar problem in a human settlement, so I do not know if the bug applies there, too... but there IS a chance I abandoned and reclaimed at one point, so it could just be that --[[User:Zatnik|Zatnik]] 05:02, 7 January 2009 (EST)

== Infinity Generators? ==

Because magma is currently a finite resource, would it be a good idea to add how to make an infinity generator as workarround untill Toady gives us some more of the stuff?—Preceding [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment added by [[User:Highlord Asehujiko|Highlord Asehujiko]] ([[User talk:Highlord Asehujiko|talk]]•[[Special:Contributions/Highlord Asehujiko|contribs]]) {{{2|}}}
:Not on the main article as it would easily be considered cheating. In here, or the [[cheating]] article itself would be fine, the latter probably more appropriate as it could be applied to water as well for those scorching maps. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 19:16, 27 January 2008 (EST)
::Magma regenerates in most cases, which pretty much means it's infinite. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 19:19, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

== Lava vs. Magma ==

I hadn't noticed it until just now, but both Lava and Magma occur in the game. I haven't seen this fact referenced in the wiki. Magma is a fluid which occurs in Magma Pipes, and in areas directly connected to Magma Pipes. Lava appears to occur in disconnected areas. I'm not sure what happens if you reconnect. If you use {{k|k}} to view a square, you'll see either Magma or Lava depths given. I'm not clear on what difference there is between the two fluids. --[[User:Doctorlucky|Doctorlucky]] 02:58, 23 March 2008 (EDT)

:There is none, just the name. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 10:30, 23 March 2008 (EDT)

::both in df, and irl, molten rock in open air is called lava, while subterranean is called magma -[[User:Chariot|Chariot]] 15:40, 23 March 2008 (EDT)

::: Ah, so magma which is ''Outside'' is lava. Cool. I guess my disjoint areas are all also outside :) I suppose we ought to mention this somewhere on the page? --[[User:Doctorlucky|Doctorlucky]] 19:19, 23 March 2008 (EDT)

== Magma vs puppy? ==

I have encountered an interesting glitch. I have 2 puppies and a kitten in magma that aren't dying, and yes I have temperature setting on. http://mkv25.net/dfma/movie-570-magmavspuppy

For those interested in trying to recreate it, I believe it has to do with designating the animal to slaughter while trying to throw it into a pit. A few of my dwarves were having pathing errors to try and slaughter them when I noticed the 3 invulnerable pests. After saving and reloading, the critters were insta-gibbed.
--[[User:Sphexx|Sphexx]] 04:59, 23 May 2008 (EDT)

== Chasm Confusion ==

"The minerals directly adjacent to the magma vent will also be immediately visible, even at the lowest level of the map, which can give some hints about where to prospect for ores."

Magma, at least in my experience, has always been surrounded only by Obsidian, as a result you cannot get any kind of insight as to the surrounding minerals, this differs from a chasm where the veins coming up to a chasm are directly reflected in the walls.

--[[User:Stalinbulldog|Stalinbulldog]] 04:18, 26 July 2008 (EDT)
:volcanoes and magmapipes can form large "chasms" above them, though it depends on how rocky the map is
:Confirmed, various minerals and gems were visible in the 'crater' area two levels above the magma in my magma pipe. --[[User:Corona688|Corona688]] 15:05, 5 November 2008 (EST)

== gruesome accident in older 2d version ==

beware wooden floodgates
not only do they burn(as I planned)
but i scattered magma all around the room
it rolled around quickly in all directions, flooding the tunnels, burning miners, smelters, war dogs and puppies alike without remorse.
it has thus far filled the entire message screen with " someone" or "something" has burned to death
it appears to gain mass from creeping down hallways! oh god...
60 deaths, at least 25 dwarves and 15 puppies22:08, 28 July 2008 (EDT)[[User:Eerr|Eerr]]

== Magma cooling? ==

Ive noticed at a 1/7 depth, the magma seems to cool and go away. v40d --[[User:OmegaX|OmegaX]] 17:28, 3 October 2008 (EDT)

: That is probably what the author meant by "Magma that is only 1 deep "evaporates" over time." [[User:MagicGuigz|MagicGuigz]] 19:58, 3 October 2008 (EDT)

== Mechanisms on Non-Floodgates ==

I want to power my underground smelting operations with magma, so I'm digging a tunnel into the side of a magma pipe. I don't want magma creatures coming in that way, so I need a set of [[bars]] across it. However, once I set up the bars, I need to open them to get a miner past and cut the last bit of stone and open the tunnel to the magma. I was going to just attach the bars to a level, but the question of what to use for the [[mechanism]] is bugging me. I don't want to waste my precious imported [[Bauxite]] on the mechanism, and once it closes behind the miner it never need to open again so it's fine it it melts, but not if the melting mechanism will cause the bars to deconstruct! Anyone know what happens to things other than floodgates when their mechanisms get melted off?
--17:11, 7 October 2008 (EDT)

: Or you could make your life much simpler with [[Fortification]]s. [[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 23:09, 14 October 2008 (EDT)

:: How? [[Fortification]]s allow liquid to pass through and stop creatures, yes, but you can't open them ''at all''. How am I supposed to get my dwarf back after he digs the last square of the channel if there's a fortification blocking the way?--[[User:Macdjord|Macdjord]] 15:49, 16 October 2008 (EDT)

:::I used a fortification to keep fire imps out of my magma channel; I dug a stairway totally unconnected to the rest of my fortress to a spot adjacent to the top layer of the magma pipe, then dug a tunnel from within the fortress to within one tile of the stairway. I fortified the tile that separated the two, then dug a channel (from outside) that let the magma flow against the "outside" face of the fortification. The magma flowed through the fortification and into the "inside" tunnel.

:::For good measure, in case I want to drain the inside tunnel at some point, I put an s-turn in the inside tunnel and situated a nickel/bauxite floodgate around the corner, out of sight of the fortification.

:::Viewed from above, basically it looks like this:

~============
~~=====..X...
~~=====.=====
~~=<#...=====
~~===========
~============

~ - Magma pipe
= - Unmined tile (wall)
. - Mined tile (channel)
< - Stairway
# - Fortification
X - Floodgate

:::The last step here is to remove the tile between the magma and the stairway by digging a channel from one z-level up.
:::--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 03:16, 17 October 2008 (EDT)
::::Why do you need a stairway? Couldn't you have just put the fortification on the tile where you have the stairway now? I'm also not sure why you need a turn as opposed to having the floodgate directly in line; i.e. {{qd|cols=7|~|`|╬|{{qd/ch{{!}}X{{!}}888|ccc}}|.|.|.}}
::::[[User:Random832|Random832]] 08:55, 17 October 2008 (EDT)

:::::I believe you can't create a fortification from above, though I could be wrong. It doesn't cost anything to dig one extra z-level down to get yourself a tile with an open face front and back which fortifies up nicely. Also, I put the kink in the tunnel just to be paranoid -- I don't want things shooting fireballs down it. I'm not sure if a fireball can destroy a floodgate. Again, it didn't cost me anything to make it a touch more elaborate.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 18:29, 17 October 2008 (EDT)

::::Well, if I dug in from above, I could just use a non-retracting set of bars. Fortifications allow liquid to flow, but they slow it down. But I'm not digging at the top level of the pipe. I suppose I could just use a sacrificial non-magma-safe floodgate, set up the bars behind it, and then open it and let it melt.
::::--[[User:Macdjord|Macdjord]] 13:20, 17 October 2008 (EDT)

== Magma Ate My Wall ==
While digging my channel to a magma pipe, I came across a vein of Lignite which ran perpendicular to my channel. I mined it out, hauled the lignite over to my fortress, and then built some walls over the side passages. It's now less than a year later, and one of those wall-units is missing. Unless there's some way a fire imp or other magma creature can destroy walls, the magma must have melted the wall. --[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 07:12, 5 November 2008 (EST)

:Wasn't that wall a Lignite wall ? It may have burnt, then. [[User:Timst|Timst]] 09:46, 5 November 2008 (EST)
:Yes, it sounds like it was a liginite wall. Magma will ignite coke-bearing rock, this has been the case for a long time. --[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 09:56, 5 November 2008 (EST)

:: No, the wall was built from rock salt. All the lignite was hauled away, and as an economic stone, not a material choice I could have made by accident. The floor is still lignite though. Think that may have been a factor? --[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 09:58, 5 November 2008 (EST)
:::That's possible, but I find it unlikely. Also, I misinterpreted what you meant by 'built a wall', didn't realize it was a construction. I thought it was a smoothed rock face. It's been a persisting question (at least in #df on synIRC) if magma will melt constructions not made of bauxite. You may have just answered that for us. Perhaps you could test by letting magma into a 5x5 room with one natural rock pillar in the middle, and a wall construction of the same type of stone? That'd answer the question once and for all, I think. --[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 10:11, 5 November 2008 (EST)
:::I've had magma against some of my constructed walls for years and years without damage. A good thing too, I've got quarters on the other side! They're almost certainly basalt. I wouldn't rule out the vanishing wall being caused by a burning floor; lignite can burn for years before vanishing. --[[User:Corona688|Corona688]] 15:14, 5 November 2008 (EST)
::::Interesting. It was probably the liginite floor, then, but that begs the question of how a burning floor could consume a wall; stone should be fire-safe. A really interesting situation, to be sure. --[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 17:26, 5 November 2008 (EST)
:::Also -- as for 'not a material choice I could have made by accident', I've found my masons will happily convert expensive imported ores and flux into blocks if they decide your depot's closer than the nearest basalt. And once anything's blocked, it's useless but for constructions. --[[User:Corona688|Corona688]] 16:39, 5 November 2008 (EST)

::::: @Corona: That's for a mason's workshop, though. When you build walls, you choose the specific rocks to build from. Although, I have to say that I've never had a mason use a rock from the restricted list.
::::: For clarity, here's an image capture. The east-west shaft was my original tunnel towards the magma pipe. Every mined-out tile north or south of that shaft was Lignite. However, the opening just below the cursor, where my missing wall is supposed to be, is listed as Rock Salt as well. This is because dwarves kept building that section of wall from the wrong side, and I had to deconstruct it and put it back up several times -- which kills our "burning lignite floor" theory. Hrm.....now that I think about it, I can't be sure that I did build that wall in the end. I can't remember if a dwarf ever built it from the correct side. I'll let you know if another wall section disappears.
[[Image:romeofalling1.GIF]]

--[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 18:54, 5 November 2008 (EST)

== Disambiguation ==

I see the term ''magma pipe'' and ''magma vent'' being used interchangeably. Do these terms mean the same thing? --[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 20:25, 8 November 2008 (EST)

:Basically, yes. Magma vents, however, are visible from the surface, whereas magma pipes are not. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 00:26, 9 November 2008 (EST)

== Magma Vs. Sand ==

In a failed experiment with wooden screw pumps with magma proof blocks, I have discovered something horrible and intriguing. Magma/lava can burn it's way through sand, so now I have an above ground magma cistern half flooding back into the magma pipe I filled it from, and half into my underground workshops through 2 z-levels of sand flooring. I have picture proof too, but I have no idea how to upload pictures from my laptop to a wiki. --[[User:Alkyon|Alkyon]] 14:19, 11 November 2008 (EST)

:"Upload file", toolbox, left side of this page.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 14:34, 11 November 2008 (EST)
::Ah, thanks. --[[User:Alkyon|Alkyon]] 20:12, 11 November 2008 (EST)

Do you mean it goes down z-levels, or does it just move across the sand? magma can normally move across anything except water, I think. --[[User:Destor|Destor]] 14:41, 11 November 2008 (EST)
:Vertically, through z-levels. It created a hole that wasn't there before through a sand floor, into my main hallway, and then through the floor there into my workshops and stockpiles. From there, it simply followed the path of least resistance down the stairs and into the living quarters (not shown). The magma seems to only tunnel through floor tiles that have no wall tile below them, which is understandable but I've never had this happen before. Though, admittedly I have never tried to create a lava cistern on top of sand before. --[[User:Alkyon|Alkyon]] 20:12, 11 November 2008 (EST)
<gallery>
Image:DF-0.JPG|Above ground (sorry for large size despite jpeg compression)
Image:DF-1.JPG|1 z-level down (main hallway)
Image:DF-2.JPG|2 z-levels down (workshops and rock, bar, and wood stockpiles)
</gallery>
:::Oh what [[Losing|FUN!]] --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]]

== Regarding Boatmurdered ==

I have this intense desire to flood the world in magma. (yes, I'm playing the 2D Dwarf Fortress. Sue me.) How did they get the magma onto the surface? Last I checked, pumps don't exist, sooo... --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 02:45, 28 November 2008 (EST)
:Channels and aqueducts... They'll transport any liquid anywhere. And bridges too!--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]]
::But magma's on the "Z-level" below. How's it supposed to get on the actual level of the elephants? --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 13:50, 28 November 2008 (EST)
:::You're still thinking in 3D. Magma is "in" the tiles where the river is, and will be in the tiles where you dig a channel, and you want to get it in the tiles where the elephants are, by digging a channel from the magma river to the outside and "releasing" it from the channel using a floodgate. The miner who digs the part of the channel that connects it to the magma river itself might get killed, since they always stood ''in'' the channel square while digging it in the 2D version. Put a floodgate just beyond it before digging it out so you can shut off the flow, since you will make mistakes.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 16:36, 28 November 2008 (EST)
::::Yes, I realize I'm thinking in 3D. Exactly how does the magma get out of the channel and onto the ground? Because last I checked, fluids didn't do that naturally. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 18:44, 28 November 2008 (EST)
:::::That's just the way the 2D version works. Channel next to liquid = liquid now in channel. Tile at end of channel not floodgate (or other liquid stopper) = liquid now on ground. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 18:47, 28 November 2008 (EST)

:::::Read [http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Channel#Game_mechanics Channel] and [http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Irrigation#Controlled_flooding Irrigation] on the archive wiki. You have to play with channels and floodgates for a bit before it all makes sense, though. The 2D version tended to get real kludgy when it came to fluids. Try to get a farm going to understand the basics of the 2D channels, floodgates, and fluids.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 23:07, 28 November 2008 (EST)

== No little errors ==

I just made a discovery. There is nothing like small error in the terms of magma engineering. After attempting to make my lava moat, I accidentally dug channel one tile longer, than it should be. At first, it went good. But then, magma flowed over my wall and flooded entire fortress. Remember - no little errors. [[User:SanDiego|SanDiego]] 12:19, 30 November 2008 (EST)

== Export the local map ==

"...you can try exporting the local map of the world which can be much more quickly searched for the distinctive red ≈ symbol. " How does one do that? --[[User:Azaram|Azaram]] 02:08, 4 December 2008 (EST)
:Right after generating your world, there is an option to export the map. I think it maps to 'p' but I can't swear to it now. I don't know if there is a way to do it at a time other than right after generation. -[[User:Fuzzy|Fuzzy]] 14:45, 4 December 2008 (EST)
::Legends screen lets you export maps as well, but they don't have the special features enabled, even with all applicable options enabled. Probably on the todo list 'somewhere', but can't imagine it's even semi-important. So you'll have to rely on worldgen exports. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 22:02, 4 December 2008 (EST)

::I thought it was just the region map you can export, not the local map, and a red ≈ just means desert and/or red sand on that map. You can see named volcanoes on it though -- red ^s.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 22:16, 4 December 2008 (EST)

::It's mapped to "P". Capital. [[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 21:01, 12 February 2009 (EST)

== Temperature setting ==

While magma will not cause fires while the temperature is turned off in the init file, it seems the game remembers at least some of the fires it would have caused. I was playing with temperature off and tunneled into magma rather carelessly, knowing it wouldn't hurt me, later, when I turned the temperature on in that game, the dwarves that came into contact with the magma were immediately set on fire. This was about a year later in game. I checked back several times by quitting without saving, every time I turned the temperature on, those same dwarves caught fire, with the temperature off, there was no indication of fire what so ever.--[[User:Sotanaht|Sotanaht]] 23:36, 23 January 2009 (EST)

:Oh wow, I can imagine tons of uses for that, especially when toady makes it so that you can go and raid the goblins... Kamikaze dwarves, anyone? Well, I guess it should be in the article, but it would be nice to do more testing first. I think that if a dwarf falls in water, he stops burning. So if you could find out if they, after being put out with temperature off, still lit up next time we could put it in. Do more research, I would but I have had trouble with DF lately, it has been mad slow.--[[User:Destor|Destor]] 00:01, 24 January 2009 (EST)

::Well, temperatures are flows, and items remember how warm they are, so presumably the dwarves that burst into flames are still at a ridiculous temperature and haven't cooled down. That, or the coating of magma on their bodies is causing them to burn...--[[User:Quil|Quil]] 00:36, 24 January 2009 (EST)

::: It has got to be the coating, as you say. Turning off the tempurature means that they should STOP remembering. The flows should not be calculated, and the items should have nothing to remember. Thats why turning it off speeds up the game, especially in extreme environs or around magma. There was, however, nothing listed that I could find, so this "magma coating" is invisible to the interface. It should also be noted that it was apparently the dwarves who caught fire first, and their burning flesh that apparently set their clothes on fire moments later.--[[User:Sotanaht|Sotanaht]] 12:29, 24 January 2009 (EST)

::::Check specifically for magma splatters on the dwarfs in question. I wouldn't be surprised if they picked them up, similar to when creatures get doused in water. The liquid tends to stick all over them, and rarely goes away on it's own. Best bet to preserve them would be to construct a waterfall-shower, and hope it washes away the magma spatter, rather than creating obsidian ;) --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 07:11, 25 January 2009 (EST)
:::::Yer, looks like the dawrfs got their Pigtail socks a coating of magma. Then magma goes boom.--[[User:Cultiststeve|cultiststeve]] 08:08, 19 February 2009 (EST)

==Site finder==

Will magma Pipes always show up on the local map? Because my site finder keeps throwing up sites with no visible magma on the local map. --[[User:ArneHD|ArneHD]] 17:09, 12 February 2009 (EST)

:No, magma pipes don't always reach the surface, and therefore won't always show up on the embark map. You can find out it's actual location by taking a guess based off of what stone layers are shown where in the embark map, or you can go to your init.txt and change SHOW_EMBARK_M_PIPE to ALWAYS. --[[User:Alkyon|Alkyon]] 17:29, 12 February 2009 (EST)

== Magma-swimming Baby ==

For some reason, someone has dropped their baby into the magma. The strange thing is, it aint burning up. Its lying there, and apparently has done so for a long time. Its hungry and thirsty. --[[User:Myroc|Myroc]] 15:26, 21 February 2009 (EST)
:I once had a mother get trapped behind a magma bulkhead with her baby. She died promptly. The baby just sorta sat in the magma flow for about a year before it died too. [[User:HeWhoIsPale|HeWhoIsPale]] 16:40, 21 February 2009 (EST)

== Spawn Distance For Creatures? ==

How far from the magma pipe can fire snakes (and imps, if they spawn) appear? Also, are they limited to spawning near the magma pipe itself, or ANY magma (i.e., a magma tap leading across the map into your fortress)?
:The pipe itself--[[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 23:51, 14 April 2009 (UTC)

== Hidden Magma Pipe ==
So I just got the message 'You have discovered a magma pipe.' This made me very happy, because I had no idea that magma was on my map, and the area is completely devoid of trees, which means I won't have to worry about charcoal as much. Anywhos, after getting the message and looking around the level... I can't find it anywhere! I assumed that you get the message when your dwarf mines a tile next to the pipe or something, but I can't find it anywhere, not even on the local map. Magma forges are enabled, so that must mean that I did find one... But is there any way of finding the darn thing? I assumed it was from some of my exploratory mining, but after looking around that area and even digging further into the rock, I don't see anything. Is it possible that the magma pipe is off the level or something, so I get the message but can't see it? Arg, this is so annoying. --[[User:ZombieRoboNinja|ZombieRoboNinja]] 00:34, 5 May 2009 (UTC)

:Try zooming in on any magma related creatures from the units menu. You could also zoom in on the newest (last) obsidian stone listed on the stocks menu I think. --[[User:Elvang|Elvang]] 04:21, 5 May 2009 (UTC)

:Check for a [[Magma#Using_magma|Magma Cap]]. --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 09:12, 5 May 2009 (UTC)

::I tried looking at the units list... Only a couple dead kobolds, a few camels, and my dwarves... So that's a no go. And there are 15 obsidian stones in my stocks, but the zoom function is grayed out... And my bookkeeper is at 100% efficiency. I also tried looking for a magma cap, but I couldn't find one. Aha! Success! I made an obsidian stockpile, and watched where my all-knowing dwarves went, and I found the source of the obsidian. I tried digging from that point, and I found it! It's a bit small, but I suppose the diameter doesn't matter much when it's a magma pipe. Thanks for your help, guys. Also, I know that talk pages aren't meant to be used as forums or anything, but is it against the rules and/or frowned upon to ask questions on the talk pages?

::: It's fine, it might even be a good thing, since we can add other tidbit of information to a main article if needed. Feel free to ask question (as long as it is in the appropriate place. --[[User:Karl|Karl]] 13:19, 5 May 2009 (UTC)

== Items Caught In Cooling Magma ==
After one of my wrestlers got pulled into a magma vent, I noticed that his Steel equipment only sank a single Z level. This brings up the idea that, if I were to pour water over the surface and harden that Z level, I could presumably recover the equipment. But will items caught in hardening magma be destroyed? Or merely trapped in obsidian that you can mine out? --[[User:Scarecrow|Scarecrow]] 16:37, 5 May 2009 (UTC)

:Hm, good question. Wouldn't it make sense that the item just gets trapped, and you just have to mine out the hardened rock to get the item back? That is, if it's resistant to magma and/or the temperature's off. Right? Why would cooling the magma destroy the object? Unless the game had it coded where like, a tile of stone being created removes all the items from the block. Which would suck. --[[User:ZombieRoboNinja|ZombieRoboNinja]] 17:48, 9 May 2009 (UTC)

:: Items lost in rivers or moats can be recovered by mining the ice in winter. It is not unreasonable to assume that magma/obsidian behaves like water/ice in this respect. This begs testing, obviously. --[[User:Aykavil|Aykavil]] 21:07, 6 May 2009 (UTC)

:::Tested this by a) dropping (non-magma safe) rocks into a river and then pouring in Lava, they were recoverable. b) putting a couple of similar rocks as well as a nickel-silver bar and a constructed nickle-silver bridge into a room, letting enough magma in to cover the floor, and then adding water before the rocks had melted. All items were recoverable and the bridge was still intact after digging it out. --[[User:Mael|Mael]] 00:08, 15 July 2009 (UTC)

== Flies spawning from magma? ==

I don't know why, but I've observed flies (normal and acorn flies, mostly normal flies) spawning at the edge of magma where its melting rock. It's particularily noticeable when you have magma channels under your forging area since the confined space tends to concentrate them. Also, they will come out of any magma access holes you have dug. I'm using the Mayday graphics mod, so no idea if it's an artifact. My theory is that they represent vapors coming out of the magma as it melts the rock it encounters. I also added this fact to the flies page as well. --[[User:Smjjames|Smjjames]] 14:14, 13 May 2009 (UTC)

== Digging into volcano wall ==

While the article says you need unbelievably fast to avoid getting incinierated while digging into the obsidian wall, this doesn't seem to be true. More important than speed is to make sure the digger has a designated mining section a few blocks away to immiedately start working on so he doesn't get that split second pause before switching labor. With this method I got a miner with merely "agile" out safely. [[User:Greep|Greep]] 04:48, 14 July 2009 (UTC)

== digging away the obsidian ==

There's something that I've not been able to find an answer for anywhere, which is if I dig away at the obsidian walls of the magma pipe (without touching the very inner layer of obsidian), will magma thats above the obisidan tile be able to leak down or is there a floor under the magma tile (above the obsidian) that'll prevent it from spilling out? --[[User:Kain|Kain]] 21:26, 26 July 2009 (UTC)

:If there was a natural tile one z-level down, then there is a floor there. --[[User:Elvang|Elvang]] 00:06, 29 July 2009 (UTC)

== Producing Obsidian section ==

The example directly on the page is difficult to understand--some diagrams would be helpful. Really, detailed designs like that should be on user pages anyway. It would be swell if the person who added this design put it on their own user page and linked to that from here. --[[User:King of the Internet|King of the Internet]] 01:29, 9 August 2009 (UTC)
:Agreed, needs some simple diagram(s) (not over-specific, easily understood/modified to suit individual needs), but also needs to be 1) [[Character_table|standard notation]], and 2) on this page. If it's on a user page, other users really can't edit it if needed (for instance, to standardize the map symbols - the wall, specifically). --[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 18:07, 9 August 2009 (UTC)
:Edit - upon reflection, there's every reason to give this topic its own page. [[Obsidian farming]]. --[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 19:53, 9 August 2009 (UTC)

Machine

2009-08-20T16:22:50Z

Arkenstone:

A '''machine''' is a composite construction that can be created by linking together one or more [[:Category:machine components|machine components]], which can be accessed from the {{k|b}}uild → {{k|M}}achine components menu. Currently, machines are very limited in function; their most notable usage is for pumping [[water]]. However, [[Toady One]] has hinted about using some machines for automatic [[Hauling]] in the (not-so-near) future. [http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/dev_core_41-60.html Core56]

== Power generators ==

[[Windmill]]s {{k|m}} and [[water wheel]]s {{k|w}} are machine components that provide power. Power generators can be chained together using axles to combine power. Additionally, water wheels can be combined by placing them adjacent to one another in parallel, thereby requiring no extra materials to perform the linkage.

== Uses for power ==

Currently, the [[screw pump]] {{k|s}} is the only machine component that consumes power to achieve a purpose. A [[millstone]] also requires power to operate, although it is classified as a [[workshop]] rather than a machine component.

Screw pumps can also be operated using dwarf labor in place of mechanical power. The millstone likewise has an unpowered alternative, the [[quern]].

== Power conduits ==

A [[gear assembly]] {{k|g}} is used to link multiple machine components together. Additionally, a gear assembly can be linked to [[lever]]s and pressure plates, which can then be used to disengage the gearbox from any linked items. For example, screw pumps can be switched on and off in this way.

[[Axle]]s are used to transport power over a distance. A horizontal axle {{k|h}} transports power within a [[z-level]], while a vertical axle {{k|v}} transports power across z-levels.

[[Category:Constructions]]

Machine

2009-08-20T16:21:09Z

Arkenstone: Added link to source

A '''machine''' is a composite construction that can be created by linking together one or more [[:Category:machine components|machine components]], which can be accessed from the {{k|b}}uild → {{k|M}}achine components menu. Currently, machines are very limited in function; their most notable usage is for pumping [[water]]. However, [[Toady One]] has hinted about using some machines for automatic [[Hauling]] in the (not-so-near) future. [http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/dev_core_41-60.html]

== Power generators ==

[[Windmill]]s {{k|m}} and [[water wheel]]s {{k|w}} are machine components that provide power. Power generators can be chained together using axles to combine power. Additionally, water wheels can be combined by placing them adjacent to one another in parallel, thereby requiring no extra materials to perform the linkage.

== Uses for power ==

Currently, the [[screw pump]] {{k|s}} is the only machine component that consumes power to achieve a purpose. A [[millstone]] also requires power to operate, although it is classified as a [[workshop]] rather than a machine component.

Screw pumps can also be operated using dwarf labor in place of mechanical power. The millstone likewise has an unpowered alternative, the [[quern]].

== Power conduits ==

A [[gear assembly]] {{k|g}} is used to link multiple machine components together. Additionally, a gear assembly can be linked to [[lever]]s and pressure plates, which can then be used to disengage the gearbox from any linked items. For example, screw pumps can be switched on and off in this way.

[[Axle]]s are used to transport power over a distance. A horizontal axle {{k|h}} transports power within a [[z-level]], while a vertical axle {{k|v}} transports power across z-levels.

[[Category:Constructions]]

40d:Entity token

2009-08-20T16:17:27Z

Arkenstone: Added: "Possible exception is if they have very high [DAMBLOCK] and [MAXAGE] values."

These [[tokens]] define entities, or [[civilizations]], in entity_*.txt files.

== Gameplay ==
{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! Token
! Arguments
! Description

|-
| ADVENTURE_TIER
| order
| Allows adventure mode. Dwarfs, Elves, and Humans take up tier 3, 2, and 1 respectively. It seems that the best way to use this is to put your entity in the same order as the other tiers. The tiers are in descending order. So you should put a new adventure entity above the Dwarves. Not at the end of the file.
[ADVENTURE_TIER:4]

|-
| INDIV_CONTROLLABLE
|
| Allows the "Play Now!" option adventure mode. The entity must have a ADVENTURE_TIER token for this to work.

|-
| CIV_CONTROLLABLE
|
| Allows fortress mode.

|-
| CREATURE
| creature
|The type of creature that will inhabit the civilization. Multiple entries will be chosen from at random for each civilization.
[CREATURE:DWARF]

|}

== Placement ==

{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! Token
! Arguments
! Description

|-
| BIOME_SUPPORT
|
* biome
* frequency
| Frequency goes from 0 to 10. Higher numbers make the entity more likely to settle there.
[BIOME_SUPPORT:ANY_GRASSLAND:4]

|-
| START_BIOME
| biome
| Birth of the civilization can be performed on this biome.
[START_BIOME:MOUNTAIN]

|-
| DEFAULT_SITE_TYPE
| site type
| Options are: CITY, TREE_CITY, DARK_FORTRESS, CAVE, CAVE_DETAILED, RUIN
[DEFAULT_SITE_TYPE:CAVE_DETAILED]

|-
| LIKES_SITE
| site type
| Most residents will try to move to this site type, unless already at one.
[LIKES_SITE:CAVE_DETAILED]

|-
| TOLERATES_SITE
| site type
| Some residents will try to move to this site type, unless already at one.
[TOLERATES_SITE:CITY]

|-
| WORLD_CONSTRUCTION
| construction
| Controls which constructions the civ will build on the world map.
[WORLD_CONSTRUCTION:BRIDGE]

|}

== Population ==

{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! Token
! Arguments
! Description

|-
| START_GROUP_NUMBER
| number
| Number of breeding couples to start with per entity. Note that single-gender (eg. [FEMALE], [MALE], [NO_GENDER]) creatures will not have breeding couples, so a civilization with only these creatures will not have any population. (Possible exception is if they have very high [DAMBLOCK] and [MAXAGE] values.)
[START_GROUP_NUMBER:10]

|-
| MAX_POP_NUMBER
| number
| Max population *per entity*, multiply this by max starting civ to get the total population of the species.
[MAX_POP_NUMBER:500]

|-
| MAX_SITE_POP_NUMBER
| number
| Max population per individual site.
[MAX_SITE_POP_NUMBER:200]

|-
| MAX_STARTING_CIV_NUMBER
| number
| Max number of entities to spawn at world generation.
[MAX_STARTING_CIV_NUMBER:3]

|}

== Flavor ==
{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! Token
! Arguments
! Description

|-
| PERMITTED_JOB
| [[Profession tokens|profession]]
| Allows this job type to be selected. This applies to worldgen creatures, in the embark screen, and in play.
[PERMITTED_JOB:MINER]

|-
| CURRENCY_BY_YEAR
|
| Causes the civ's currency to be numbered with the year it was minted.

|-
| CURRENCY
|
* metal token
* value
| What kind of metals the civ uses for coin minting as well as the value of the coin.
[CURRENCY:SILVER:5]

|-
| ART_FACET_MODIFIER
|
* type
* number
| OWN_RACE, FANCIFUL, EVIL, GOOD
Number goes from 0 to 25600 where 256 is the default.
[ART_FACET_MODIFIER:OWN_RACE:512]

|-
| ART_IMAGE_ELEMENT_MODIFIER
|
* item
* number
| CREATURE, PLANT, TREE, SHAPE, ITEM
0-25600
Determines the chance of each image occurring in that entity's artwork, such as engravings and on artifacts, for default (non-historical) artwork.
[ART_IMAGE_ELEMENT_MODIFIER:TREE:512]

|-
| ITEM_IMPROVEMENT_MODIFIER
|
* item
* number
| ART_IMAGE, COVERED, RINGS_HANGING, BANDS, SPIKES, ITEMSPECIFIC, THREAD, CLOTH, SEWN_IMAGE:0-25600
Determines the chance of the entity using that particular artwork method, such as "menaces with rings of spikes".
[ITEM_IMPROVEMENT_MODIFIER:SPIKES:0]

This also seems to change the amount that the entity will pay for items that are improved in the ways in their tokens.

|-
| TRANSLATION
| language
| What language raw the entity uses.
* If an entity lacks this tag, translations appear to be drawn randomly from all translation files.
[TRANSLATION:DWARF]

|-
| CULL_SYMBOL
|
* noun
* symbol
| ALL, CIV, SITE
Causes the entity to not use the words in these SYM sets.
[CULL_SYMBOL:ALL:UGLY]

|-
| SELECT_SYMBOL
|
* noun
* symbol
| Causes the entity to more often use these symbols in the particular SYM set.
[SELECT_SYMBOL:ALL:PEACE]

|-
| FRIENDLY_COLOR
| see [[color]]
|
The color of creatures currently in your group?
[FRIENDLY_COLOR:1:0:1]

|-
| METAL_PREF
|
| Enables creatures of this entity to have a preference for one or more advanced metals.
This also allows them to use stronger metals, such as steel. Currently only dwarves have this token.

|-
| STONE_PREF
|
| Enables creatures of this entity to have a preference for one or more stones.

|-
| WOOD_PREF
|
| Enables creatures of this entity to have a preference for one or more types of wood.

|-
| GEM_PREF
|
| Enables creatures of this entity to have a preference for one or more gems.

|-
| UNDEAD_CANDIDATE
|
| In previous versions, this also allowed ruins to be automatically populated by undead versions of that species.
Unknown if the tag does anything as of version 40d.

|}

== Religion ==
{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! Token
! Arguments
! Description

|-
| RELIGION
| type
| REGIONAL_FORCE: The creatures will worship a single force associated with their spheres.
PANTHEON: The creatures will worship a group of gods, each aligned with their spheres and other appropriate ones as well.

ANY_APPROPRIATE_POWER: The creatures will worship creatures with the [POWER] token. At the moment, the only [POWER] creature is the Demon.

[RELIGION:PANTHEON]

|-
| RELIGION_SPHERE
| sphere
| Can by any available [[Sphere]]. Multiple entries are possible. Choosing a religious sphere will automatically make its opposing sphere not possible for the species to have: adding WATER, for example, means the species will never get FIRE as a religious sphere.
[RELIGION_SPHERE:FORTRESSES]

|-
| SPHERE_ALIGNMENT
|
* type
* number
|
This token forces an entity to favor or disfavor particular religious spheres, causing them to acquire those spheres more often when generating a pantheon.
[SPHERE_ALIGNMENT:TREES:512]

|}

== Leadership ==
{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! Token
! Arguments
! Description

|-
| CAN_HAVE_MILITARY_LEADER
|
| Allows the entity to have a military leader.

|-
| CAN_HAVE_MILITARY_SITE_LEADER
|
| Allow the entity to have military minor leaders.

|-
| LEADER_TYPE
| [[Profession tokens|profession]]
| Makes the leader of the civ this profession, uses tileset professions.
[LEADER_TYPE:MASTER_THIEF]

|-
| SITE_LEADER_TYPE
| [[Profession tokens|profession]]
| Makes the minor leaders this profession, uses tileset professions.
[SITE_LEADER_TYPE:MASTER_THIEF]

|-
| MAYOR
|
| Settlements have a mayor.

|}

== Behavior ==
{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! Token
! Arguments
! Description

|-
| [[ETHIC]]
|
*behavior
*reaction
| Sets the civ's view of certain behaviors, from capital punishment to completely acceptable. This also causes the civ to look upon opposing ethics with disfavor, if their reaction to it is opposing, and when at extremes (one ACCEPTABLE, another civ UNTHINKABLE for example) they will often go to war over it.
[ETHIC:EAT_SAPIENT_KILL:ACCEPTABLE]

|-
| WILL_ACCEPT_TRIBUTE
|
| Makes the civ accept tribute from conquered sites? Or maybe makes the civ's traders accept offered goods?

|-
| WANDERER, BEAST_HUNTER, SCOUT
|
| The civ will send out these sorts of adventurers in worldgen.

|-
| ABUSE_BODIES
|
| The civilization will mutilate bodies when they are the victors in history-gen warfare, such as hanging bodies from trees, putting them on spikes, and so forth.

|-
| ACTIVE_SEASON
| season
| the season the civ is most active and will trade, interact with you, and/or invade. While only one friendly non-dwarven civ can be active per season, both dwarves and another civ can be active in autumn. Including the dwarves, you can have five active civs trading with you. Civs can have multiple season entries.
[ACTIVE_SEASON:AUTUMN]

|-
| AMBUSHER
|
| When invading sneaks around and shoots at straggling members of your society. They will spawn on the edge of the map and will only be visible when one of their party are spotted; this can be quite dangerous to undefended trade depots.

|-
| AT_PEACE_WITH_WILDLIFE
|
| Will not attack wildlife, and will not be attacked by them, even if you have them in your party. This can be somewhat disconcerting when attacked by bears in the forest and your elven ally sits back and does nothing.

|-
| BABYSNATCHER
|
| Sends thieves to steal babies. Also sends ambush parties to harass your civilization. Without this tag enemy civs will only siege, and will siege as early as they would otherwise babysnatch. This can happen as early as the first year of the fort! In addition, babysnatcher civs will snatch children during history gen, allowing them to become part of the civ if they do not escape.

|-
| DIPLOMAT
|
| Sends diplomats to come and talk to you, also allows trade negotiations for the next year's caravan.

|-
| DIPLOMAT_BODYGUARDS
|
| Diplomats have bodyguards.

|-
| ENTITY_GROUPING
| alignment (obsolete)
| FRIENDLY, EVIL, or NUISANCE
[ENTITY_GROUPING:FRIENDLY]

|-
| INVADERS_IGNORE_NEUTRALS
|
|

|-
| ITEM_THIEF
|
| Sends thieves to steal items. This will also occur in history generation, and thieves will have the "thief" profession. Items stolen in history gen will be scattered around that creature's home.

|-
| MERCHANT_BODYGUARDS
|
| Merchants have bodyguards.

|-
| MERCHANT_NOBILITY
|
| Civ has a merchant prince.

|-
| PROGRESS_TRIGGER_POPULATION
| level
| 0 to 5, civ will come to site once population at site has reached that level

|-
| PROGRESS_TRIGGER_PRODUCTION
| level
| 0 to 5, civ will come to site once created wealth has reached that level

|-
| PROGRESS_TRIGGER_TRADE
| level
| 0 to 5, civ will come to site once exported goods has reached that level

|-
| SIEGER
|
| Allows the entity to invade your fortress if angered, causing a [[siege]] event.

|-
| SKULKING
|
| This makes the severity of attacks depend on the extent of item/baby thievery rather than the passage of time.

|-
| TREE_CAP_DIPLOMACY
|
| Makes the entity angry if you cut down too many trees. They will send a warning first.

|}

== Items and Animals Used ==
{| {{prettytable}}
|- bgcolor="#ddd"
! Token
! Arguments
! Description

|-
| AMMO
| item token
|
[AMMO:ITEM_AMMO_BOLTS]

|-
| ARMOR
|
* item token
* rarity
| Rarity is optional.
[ARMOR:ITEM_ARMOR_PLATEMAIL:COMMON]

|-
| DIGGER
| item token
|
[DIGGER:ITEM_WEAPON_PICK]

|-
| GLOVES
|
* item token
* rarity
| Rarity is optional.
[GLOVES:ITEM_GLOVES_GLOVES:COMMON]

|-
| HELM
|
* item token
* rarity
| Rarity is optional.
[HELM:ITEM_HELM_HELM:COMMON]

|-
| INSTRUMENT
| item token
|
[INSTRUMENT:ITEM_INSTRUMENT_FLUTE]

|-
| PANTS
|
* item token
* rarity
| Rarity is optional.
[PANTS:ITEM_PANTS_PANTS:COMMON]

|-
| SHIELD
| item token
|
[SHIELD:ITEM_SHIELD_SHIELD]

|-
| SHOES
|
* item token
* rarity
| Rarity is optional.
[SHOES:ITEM_SHOES_SHOES:COMMON]

|-
| SIEGEAMMO
| item token
|
[SIEGEAMMO:ITEM_SIEGEAMMO_BALLISTA]

|-
| TOY
| item token
|
[TOY:ITEM_TOY_PUZZLEBOX]

|-
| TRAPCOMP
| item token
|
[TRAPCOMP:ITEM_TRAPCOMP_GIANTAXEBLADE]

|-
| WEAPON
| item token
|
[WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_AXE_BATTLE]

|-
| USE_ANIMAL_PRODUCTS
|
|

|-
| USE_ANY_PET_RACE
|
| Assuming it passes other checks, any creature in their list of usables (from common domestic if they have that or from the surrounding 7x7 or so of squares and map features in those squares) which has PET or PET_EXOTIC will be available as a pet (next time, it'll let them use mounts/pullers/pack animals of any kind as well, but I'm not sure this matters in the stock raws). This notion of the initial usable creature list, which then gets pared down or otherwise considered, applies below as well. All common domestic and equipment creatures are also added to the initial list.

|-
| USE_CAVE_ANIMALS
|
| If they don't have it, creatures with exclusively subterranean biomes are skipped.

|-
| USE_EVIL_ANIMALS
|
| Don't have it -> EVIL creatures skipped.

|-
| USE_EVIL_PLANTS
|
| As EVIL creatures for all uses of plants.

|-
| USE_EVIL_WOOD
|
| As EVIL creatures for all uses of wood.

|-
| USE_GOOD_ANIMALS
|
| Don't have it -> GOOD creatures skipped.

|-
| USE_GOOD_PLANTS
|
| As GOOD creatures for all uses of plants.

|-
| USE_GOOD_WOOD
|
| As GOOD creatures for all uses of wood.

|-
| USE_MISC_PROCESSED_WOOD_PRODUCTS
|
| If wood is available locally, and you have permitted the relevant professions in the def, controls availability of lye, charcoal, potash and pearlash.

|-
| COMMON_DOMESTIC_MOUNT
|
| If a creature has PET and the relevant COMMON_DOMESTIC_x tag (or COMMON_DOMESTIC for pets), it will be allowed if it passes the other checks.

|-
| COMMON_DOMESTIC_PACK
|
| If a creature has PET and the relevant COMMON_DOMESTIC_x tag (or COMMON_DOMESTIC for pets), it will be allowed if it passes the other checks.

|-
| COMMON_DOMESTIC_PET
|
| If a creature has PET and the relevant COMMON_DOMESTIC_x tag (or COMMON_DOMESTIC for pets), it will be allowed if it passes the other checks.

|-
| COMMON_DOMESTIC_PULL
|
| If a creature has PET and the relevant COMMON_DOMESTIC_x tag (or COMMON_DOMESTIC for pets), it will be allowed if it passes the other checks.

|-
| RIVER_PRODUCTS
|
| Allow civ to use river products in the goods it has available for trade.

|-
| OCEAN_PRODUCTS
|
| Allow civ to use ocean products in the goods it has available for trade.

|-
| INDOOR_FARMING
|
| Determines if inside farms will be generated for civ towns, and determines if the player can build farms underground in fortress mode.

|-
| OUTDOOR_FARMING
|
| Determines if outside farms will be generated for civ towns, and determines of the player can build outdoor farms in fortress mode.

|-
| CLOTHING
|
| Civ members will attempt to wear clothing.

|-
| SUBTERRANEAN_CLOTHING
|
| Will wear things made of spider silk and other subterranean materials.

|-
| EQUIPMENT_IMPROVEMENTS
|
| Adds decorations to equipment based on the level of the generated unit. Also improves item quality.

|-
| IMPROVED_BOWS
|
| Adds decorations to weapons generated for bowman and master bowman. An elf hack.

|-
| MINOR_METAL
|
| Has a preference for weak metals. (copper)

|-
| LOW_SKILL
|
| No longer used. Formerly used to keep kobolds under control. [v0.28.181.39f]

|}

[[Category:Modding]]
[[Category:Tokens]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2009-08-20T15:13:55Z

Arkenstone: /* Bow/Crossbow-skill */

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that sealed the fate of your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

All the [[skills]] you see CAN be improved through use in game, so don’t worry about spreading them out completely evenly. In general, pick the [[skills]] you think you’re going to use. The [[skills]] are pretty self explanatory but its recommended that you put at least a few points into [[shield]] / [[armor]] and into a type of weapon. Be warned that [[weapon]] [[skills]] generally take a while to level up, so placing a good deal of points into a singe weapon may be to your advantage. Also keep in mind that your skills determine what kind of equipment you have in the beginning, ie high sword skill means you’ll start with a sword. For information on the weapons and the other aspects of combat, please check the combat section. It might also be a good idea to use a point or two for swiming, otherwise you might end up drowning in a puddle.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mead hall. You will see the Mayor (purple) as well as the occational townsperson. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the Citizens and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid if they feel like it (note, people with no combat skills are unlikely to follow you, and the major and town guards never will.) If you choose dwarf, you start out in a region just outside the entrance to a given fortress. There is a [[mayor]] or the [[king]] himself inside the fortress.

Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Survival ===
Congratulations, you’ve created a character and are now about to embark on your fantastic adventure! For now, lets focus on the bare bones of staying alive shall we? First things first, you need food and water. If you’re a human you start with some, but baring that you may need to find a waterskin. These can be bought in human towns, specifically at the shop. DO NOT STEAL THESE OR ANYTHING ELSE. Do not pick anything up and walk outside the store before you trade for it. Why? Because you are currently weak and your neck is currently arrow bait. After getting the water skin, simply find a water source and hit (Shift+I) to interact with the object. Press the letter of the Water skin and you should be able to fill it from the water source. After it’s full press (e)to open the Eat menu and select the water. Food can be acquired from stores eaten in the same way.

Now that you know how to work your mouth we can move on to miscellaneous tips for survival. Firstly, you are very tasty and chances are (unless you’re an elf) the wildlife will soon be attempting to eat your face. A bear or cougar isn’t too much of a problem because there’s only one, the real problem will be wolf packs.
A single wolf is easy to dispatch, but a dozen or so can prove very problematic indeed. Beware large packs until you’ve gained a little experience. Secondly, do not piss off the towns folk, as they tend to have guards. Lastly, beware of taking quests or attempting things before you’re ready, as you will more than likely have tons of [[fun]]
=== Civilization? ===
Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and are marked with an "H" on the town auto-map. Medium buildings are stores, marked with a symbol that indicates what they sell - food, weapons, clothing, and two kinds of trinkets (incidentally, armor and clothing is sold in the same building). As of the current version, you start in the mead hall which is marked with an "M" on the automap. There are one or two apartment buildings buildings which are two stories, with six rooms a story; they are also marked with an "H." There are two really large buildings - the "T"emple and the a fort-like building that is marked with "K." Temples tend to have two or three levels, and a pool of water, while the "K" buildings are three or four floors high and are almost entirely empty (they will occationally contain random smatterings of clothing though, if you're looking for things to sell.)

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are one 1-tale wide hallways, empty rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress Mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

==== Selling ====
You can also sell things to traders. Bones, corpses, body parts and rocks are not valuable, no matter how attached you are to a particularly aerodynamic kobold head. Small creatures discovered while {{k|L}}ooking Carefully may be worth a small amount of money. In order to sell or buy items, stand adjacent to the shopkeeper in his store, and {{k|k}}onverse with the shopkeeper. Select "Trade" and press {{k|enter}} to open the trade window.

Select each non-worthless item you wish to sell, and then set a price using the following format{{verify}}:
* {{k|a}} asking for 9000☼
* {{k|s}} +100☼
* {{k|d}} +10☼
* {{k|f}} +1☼
* {{k|g}} reset to 0☼
* {{k|h}} -1☼ (offering)
* {{k|j}} -10☼
* {{k|k}} -100☼
* {{k|l}} offer 9000☼

The use of these keys may seem non-intuitive, and this is further complicated by the limit on your available offers by your current financial health.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit. After the trade sessions, the balance of your coins will appear on a small table next to a chest.

[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' travel a considerable distance before allowing you to travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

====Managing coins====
Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most commonly giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world. Please harvest sustainably.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

=== Combat ===
== The Weapons ==
Weapons are basically divided into ax, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area. Swords are your jack of all trades weapon, doing reasonable slashing damage. They come in short, long and two handed varieties, with the two handed doing the most damage and the short doing the least. Axes are similar to swords and do slashing damage as well. They come in 3 types, battle ax, great ax and halberd. The battle ax does slightly less damage than the long sword while the halberd does the same damage as a two-handed sword. The Great ax is generally too large to use, but it does slightly more than the halberd in damage. The spear does piercing damage and is ideal for damaging internal organs and causing heavy bleeding and unconsciousness. It has no variations. The spear is much more likely to become stuck in its target, which can be a great benefit if used right and a curse if not. The Pike is, for all intents and purposes, the same as a spear. The mace and the hammer are generally the same thing, simply a big metal thing to club your enemies over the head. As expected, they do high damage but their bludgeoning attacks tend to be slower and less effective , if more hilarious, ways to dispatch your foes. The Maul, a hammer, is the highest damaging weapon in the game. The last weapon is the whip, which does gore damage. Its relatively weak but has its uses. The bow throws arrows, which act as tiny spears. Basically, a bow and crossbow is like having a very slow, long range spear.

== Weapon Tactics ==
Sword: Once again, your general fall back weapon. It’s good against almost everything, if not being that great against almost anything. Works well against both living and non-living enemies as it actively dismembers them.

Ax: Pretty much the same as a sword, though some people believe it hacks off limbs more commonly. Good against organics, acceptable against anything else.

Spear/Pike: Ok, here’s where we get a little bit more advanced. The spear is most effective against organic creatures because of two abilities, pierce damage and stick ins. Piercing damage does major harm to internal organs, causing pain, bleeding, vomiting, unconsciousness and death. Stick-ins are when the weapon becomes stuck in the target, allowing it to be twisted. Twisting increases bleeding and causes extreme pain. Because of these two factors spears and pikes are ideal for single combat against organic targets. The are less effective against multiple enemies (because of the stick-ins lowering kill-to-turn ratios) and are even less effective against non-organic enemies (ie bronze colossus).

Mace/hammer: These weapons rely on their ability to turn your opponent into a tasty pulp through repeated wacking. They break bones and bruise flesh, meaning that aside from a critical hit they generally are less likely to mortal wounds quickly. They are great for crippling organics and non-organics alike, but when it comes to a swift, efficient death they are generally less than perfect. The exception to this is high strength and mace/hammer skill which allows for instant head crushing.

Whip: The whip uses gore damage, which is similar to a cross between slash and pierce. It can cut off limbs but is more likely to slice up organs and cause extreme pain and bleeding. A few hits will generally render an opponent unconscious and perhaps even badly injured enough to eventually bleed to death. However, the whip is a slow outright killer, sometimes needing dozens of blows to actually finish its target.

Bow (and arrows): Arrows are much like spears, because of their piercing damage and all the benefits it has. The benefits it has however are its range and its ability to target multiple enemies. They are most effective against organic targets. You, unfortunately, are organic, which makes archers one of your biggest problems.

== Non-weapon tactics ==

Besides your weapons you have two other major forms of attack: Wrestling and throwing.

Wrestling: Wrestling can be preformed by standing next to an enemy and pressing (Shift+a) and then (enter) to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy, however things such as wolves, bears and big cats do not allow you to perform the more advanced moves. After catching hold of a body part you can perform a lock, which allows you to further sprain, break or cripple an opponent. With a free hand you can perform even more advanced moves, such as gouging out eyes or stealing weapons. To gouge eyes grab a head with an open hand, to steal a weapon, grab the weapon and then check your inventory with (Shift+I). press the button corresponding to the weapon and then press a to gain possession of it.

One of the best tactics for fighting high level weapon masters is to either break his weapon hand or to steal his weapon, essentially making him no more dangerous than a normal peasant.

Throwing: Throwing is the skill of…well basically throwing shit. And vomit. And bugs and spears and rocks so on. Just about anything can be thrown, sometimes with devastating results. While it seems like weapons (and arrows) tend to be more reliable in their damage causing abilities when thrown, just about anything can potentially be lethal. Picking up a worm and hucking it right through a dragon’s skull is not only possible, but has been done on multiple occasions. A warrior with a high throw skill is often times more dangerous with an arrow than a trained archer is.

=== Wounds ===
You or your enemy are going to get hurt in the course of your adventures and its pretty useful to know exactly what’s happening when you are. Here’s a quick guide to the various aspects of wounds.

== Wound indicators ==
Wounds come in several colors and are indicated on the status screen (press z to see your own status screen while pressing (l) to look at your enemy’s). The status screen will list your body parts in different colors to indicate how damaged they are.
White-unhurt and feeling fine

Light gray-slightly damaged, think a nasty scrape or cut.

Brownish yellow-moderately damaged, such as a mild sprain or the like

Yellow-Broken. Applied to joints it means literally broken, while applied to upper and lower body it generally means organ damage.

Red-Badly damaged. If you got this then chances are you’re in bad shape. Severely broken bones or ruptured organs. If this status is effecting anything even remotely vital you’re more than likely on your way to the grave.

Gray-lopped off or cut out. This is when you completely lose a body part. Effects include massive pain and bleeding along with ruining your promising juggling career.

== Wound effects ==
Hands-damage to the fingers or wrists can cause you to drop your held items, but usually only with yellow level damage. Losing a hand entirely gives you a serious handicap, which will more than likely lead to fun in the future.

Feet-Causes slowed movement and falling. If removed can cause permanent slowed movement. Removing both can cause a continuous on ground effect.

Legs-similar to feet, though often has increased bleeding and pain effects. Loss of one will usually result in death by bleed out. Even if you survive you’re more than likely on your way to death. Severed legs do make a lovely club though.

Arms- Damage to almost any part of the arm can cause items to be dropped. Loss of an arm is perhaps even worse than the loss of a leg, due to the loss of weapon and wrestling capabilities. Loss of both arms is both tragic and hilarious.

Head-Contains the brain, ears, mouth, nose, eyes and throat. Ears, nose and mouth are officially useless and can be cut off in an effort to appear cool. The brain, eyes and throat are however less disposable. Damage to the eyes results in loss of vision, permanent if the eyes are removed, and terrible pain. Its usually not possible to bleed to death from the loss of the eyes though. The throat is highly sensitive and damage causes both extreme bleeding and suffocation effects. The brain is the most important thing you’ve got and damage to it is an almost instant death. Any wound it receives will more than likely cause instant unconsciousness and severe bleeding.

Upper body. Contains the heart, lungs, upper spine and liver and kidneys. Both the kidneys and liver have similar effects, namely heavy bleeding and pain upon injury. The spine causes nervous system damage, which can have several, sometimes permanent effects. The lungs control breathing, so piercing them can cause suffocation. The heart is the main organ of the circulatory system and damage to it is almost always fatal through bleeding.

Lower body: Contains various organs like the stomach and spleen, all of which have the same effect of bleeding, pain and nausea. Nausea leads to vomiting, which make the wounded creature unable to attack. There is also the lower spine which has similar effects to the upper spine.

== Attack types and their wounds ==
Pierce-dangerous to organic creatures, you included. Often times objects with the pierce effect will become lodged in their target. Removing the weapon from its lodged position causes both increased pain and bleeding but often times can alleviate certain symptoms the piercing has caused.

Bludgeon: Breaks bones and cripples joints. Generally less dangerous to the internal organs than other damage. The danger comes from its ability to incapacitate you and then turn your head to mush.

Slash: Dangerous for its ability to sever limbs and cause bleeding. Beware its habit of decapitation.

Gore: Shreds internal organs, causing all sorts of nasty side effects. Almost worthless on non-organic enemies but can cause severe problems for you living sorts.

== Dealing with wounds ==
In adventure mode your wounds will heal if you travel (shift + t) and they’ll recover just about anything except a lopped off limb. If you can’t travel the best thing to do is try and run from battle if you’re badly wounded, since running will give you time to stop bleeding and suppress the pain. Beware dropping your weapon and make sure to pick it up before you make a run for it. If an arrow strikes you in the chest its best to leave it there while an arrow to the extremities can be removed.

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some new members to your party, you'll not only gain extra damage output, you'll also have someone else to take the damage instead of you!

When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks. They are found in human towns inside the [[tavern]] with the [[Mayor]] (the building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill [[wrestling]] and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill. Drunks are much rarer in the current version of the game, so it's unlikely that you'll find one.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

Some otherwise eligible companions may rebuff your offer of becoming a living shield for one of the following reasons:

If the prospective meat shield considers himself more skilled than you are, he may rebuff you with, "Ha! Such enthusiasm from one such as yourself."
This can be remedied by training your skills until he judges you a bit more skillful than he is.

Another reason for someone to refuse to die protecting you is that you already have the maximum of 12 companions, and they will rebuff you by asking, "With a band so large, what share of the glory would I have?"
But look at it this way, at least your total party size is 13 when you count yourself! Now that's lucky!

Another possiblity is to asked your old, retired adventurers for help. They'll never say no unless your party is too big and they should be pretty capible since you trained them.

==== The Perils of the Wild ====

{{d for dwarf}}

You’ll face many creatures on your travels, several mega and semi-mega bests included if you’re taking quests. Heres a quick look at the more dangerous beasts (sentient or not) that you’ll meet.

=== The Mega and Semi-mega beasts and the sentient races ===

Bronze Colossus: Probably one of the hardest beasts to combat due to its massive strength, impressive natural armor and complete ignorance of pain, fear and bleeding. Bronze Colossi are basically walking, dwarf crushing statues that will never stop unless beheaded or outright obliterated. They have no organs and do not bleed, making them impossible to knock unconscious. Their immense strength makes them unlikely to give in to wrestling moves (though if you can manage to lock and break a limb it will snap off rather than just becoming useless.) Because of these resistances all you can really do is hack / shoot and hope that it dies before you do.

Dragon: The main danger of these beasts is their massive fire breath, which can consume dozens of spaces. A high block still is recommended before you fight them. A spear is a great weapon here, as it allows you to potentially knock them unconscious within a few turns. Arrows are also good, though staying at a distance can be dangerous because of the fire breath. Beware their bite, as it can cause major damage.

Hydra: a joke really, as It seems to lack the regenerative powers of its mythological cousin. It has 7 heads, but damage to one is as serious as damaging the head of a one headed beast. More than likely you’ll have it unconscious in a few turns regardless of what you use.

Titan: basically an organic bronze colossus. It is essentially a larger, stronger human, with all the weaknesses being the same. Piercing and goring damage can quickly weaken and incapacitate these beasts, but keep an eye out for its wrestling, which can cause some bad joint damage.

Cyclops: A weaker, smaller titan with one eye. Eye+arrow=win

Ettin: A two headed giant. Basically a stronger human, usually unarmed. Just hack it until it dies.

Giant: Just a giant human like thing. Stab it in the neck or break its limbs for massive damage.

Minotaur: Only thing really dangerous about this guy is his horns. Pretty good wrestler but nothing that should give a reasonably prepared adventurer any problems.

Humans: Should you wander into battle against a human force its in your best interest to disable their archers first. The only real danger humans have is their numbers and their use of items. Disarming or crippling dangerous guards or weapon maters is highly recommended, since as soon as they are weaponless they are essentially as good as dead.

Elves: They have wooden equipment, making them laughable most of the time. Once again, the only real threat is their archers and even then they are less dangerous than humans. Elves are generally known for being annoying dicks so its recommended that you slaughter the lot. If you are an elf its recommended that you have tons of fun.

Dwarves: Their advantage is their steel weaponry and crossbows. Their disadvantage is that their mountain homes are generally so large that you’ll only rarely fight more than one or two. Disable their weapon masters and archers then throw their own axes at them. Juggle their heads in front of their children.

Goblins: Like weaker dwarves, with less armor and less skill. They have a feeble sense of morals, meaning that they will only sometimes attack you after you hurt one of their friends. You can basically cleave right through them with ease.

=== Other Humanoids ===

These are creatures that in shape resemble something human, but have no society.

Antman: A half man half ant hybrid which lives in chasms. They have higher natural armor than a man, but rarely use tools. As long as you’re armed they should pose no problem.

Batman: Half man, half bat that lives in caves and chasms. They can fly and use weapons, though they rarely do. Attacks with punches and bites; the bites are the most potentially damaging because they cause gore damage. He is the night.

Blizzard man: Frosty’s asshole brother. Blizzard men are creatures of pure ice that strangely still have organs. They can bite and punch, with biting doing the most damage. They will melt in normal temperatures so they are only found in freezing areas.

Dark gnome: Mischievous mountain folk who enjoy hard liquor. They‘re basically dwarfs but smaller and no where near as dangerous. Its rare that you’ll even find them, but if you do they should pose no threat to you. They punch and bite but neither is noticeable.

Fire Imp: Little gremlin like things that are either constantly on fire or made of fire. They’re found only in subterranean lava pits, meaning that you’ll have to go searching for them if you’re ever gonna see one. They only bite (does burn damage rather than gore), but their real danger comes from their ability to set you on fire. Ranged combat is recommended, though darting forward, attacking and then jumping away might be effective if you have no other choice. They can also breathe fire at you though, so its again recommended to stay back.

Firemen: Like the fire imps, but better. They have the bronze colossus syndrome of having no organs, not bleeding, feeling pain or being able to have weapons stuck in them. They too can set you ablaze, but they’re much harder to kill before they do it. Bludgeoning can break and hence sever their limbs. Recommended that you fight from a distance. Luckily these things only live in underground lava, so you’ll never find them without going into very specific places.

Frogman: No not those things Race Banon was always killing, but half man half frogs that live in underground water. They can’t equip weapons and are very small, making them almost completely non-threatening.

Iron man: Millionaire Tony Stark puts on his…oops wrong one. Ironmen are like firemen but less dangerous because they aren’t on fire. They are basically smaller, less dangerous Bronze Colossi. When killed they leave a valuable iron statue. They appear only in chasms.

Leechman: Half man, Half leech, all sexy. They have no bones, but curiously do have arms (but no legs). They can suck blood, but considering they have no bones and every blow will almost always strike a vital organ its a lot more likely that blood will be coming out of it than you.

Lizardman: Half man, half lizard; lives in underground water. Punches and bites along with the ability to use items. Similar to many of the other half breeds, but with one notable exception. He’s a lizard.

Magma man: A man made of pure magma. Everything about this guy is the exact same as the fire man, with the exception that he can’t breathe fire. This makes him less dangerous at a distance. Stay back and throw stuff at him.

Merpersons: Tiny little mermaids and mermen. Not dangerous at all, and relatively rare to boot. They can equip items but you’ll probably never see one anyway.

Mountain Gnome: The same as a Dark Gnome, but less evil. Same things apply here.

Mud man: Like Ironman but made of mud. Can’t equip items and only has a weak punch as a form of attack, making it about as threatening as a mudpie. Lives in underground water.

Orge: The middle ground between giant and human. Their punches and bites do a surprisingly small amount of damage, though they can use weapons. As with any big, organic moron its recommended to try and damage their organs to quickly incapacitate and kill them. Piercing damage is very useful.

Olmman: Half man, half blind cave salamander. Think Golum but even more messed up and without eyes. Their bites are surprisingly strong. Found only in subterranean water and even then only rarely. (personal note: Olms are pretty damn awesome things (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olm) they’re even on the money in one country.)

Ratman: Seems to attack with 4 turtle men cronies, who are surprisingly good warriors. But seriously, they’re about as weak as actual rats. They only come from chasms so don’t worry about them too much.

Slugman: Do I even have to say? it’s a dang slug man, do you think its dangerous? Its not. Just stab it in its deformed face.

Snail man: Think slug man, but with a shell that doesn’t actually offer any protection.

Snakemen: The only real threat these guys pose is their ability to inject poison by biting. If it does bite you its your best bet to try and quickly kill the snake man before his poison takes effect, since it can incapacitate you.

Troglodyte: Small, reptilian creatures that live underground. Not dangerous unless they attack in swarms and even then they are easily beaten by even a novice adventurer. Use organic combating techniques to deal with them.

Troll: There’s no real difference between this thing and an orge. Kill them both the same way.

Werewolf: Or wolfman. Attacks alone and only bites with a goring attack. Bite can be dangerous but the fact that there is only one of him makes it a lot easier to fight. Fun to wrestle for experience.

=== Wildlife ===

Here’s the rundown of all the mundane beasties that you’ll run into

Beak dog: Basically what happens when parrot gets combined with Velociraptors. They’re a little smaller than a man but quick and use their beaks and claws effectively. Try not to get caught in the center of a group of them, backpedal and cut them down as they give chase.

Black Bear: These will only ambush you one on one, and given their relative small size and forgettable strength they should pose little threat unless you’re completely unskilled and unarmed. Because there’s only one they can be useful for wrestling practice since you can focus all your attention on them.

Bonobo: I’ve never seen one myself, though I’ve been told they’re ape like things. Considering their squishy organs it would be best to stab them in the groin.

Camel: Its…a camel. You’ll probably never see one.

Carp: BEHOLD, FOR ARMOK BREATHED LIFE INTO THE VERY ROCKS IN THE RIVERS AND COMMANDED THEM TO GO FORTH AND MUTILATE RANDOM PASSERS BY. TO HIS DWARVEN FOLLOWERS HE EXPLAINED IT THUS, “F*** YOU”-the tome of Armok, chapter 2. In all seriousness though, while they may be freaking fresh water sharks in the fortress mode, carp aren’t too dangerous in adventure mode. Their biggest advantage is their environment, being water which you can not breathe.

Cat: IT’S A KITTY! Anyways, you’ll almost always have too many of these things in fortress and you’ll never see them in adventure. Even if you did, what would you do with them? You wouldn’t hurt them would you? Fucking Nazi.

Cougar: Like a kitty, but bigger. Cougars are good wrestling practice and good shield training as well, what with the fact that Cougars suck so hard. If you get killed by this thing it was either insanely lucky or you have no arms.

Cow: It’s a cow. Kill it for free hamburgers. I’m actually not even sure if you can find the dang things in adventure mode.

Deer: You might see these running away from you in the woods. They’re harmless but good wrestling practice if you feel like strangling a defenseless animal.

Dog: WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF I’ve never seen one of these in adventure mode, but its pretty obvious what they are huh?

Donkey: Pulls wagons and things like that. You might see one but its not really worth attacking them.

Elephants: In prior versions elephants were murderous berserkers, but thankfully they’ve been made a little more realistic. They’re just as big and strong as you’d expect, but won’t bother you unless you walk up and stab’em a few times. Reasonably dangerous, so don’t poke them unless you’re ready.

Elk: Much like deer, though a little bigger and usually solitary

Fox: Another small animal that you’ll most likely never see. If you do however, its proper to light them on fire and scream “YIFF IN HELL”.

Giant bat: Bigger than a minotaur and more dangerous at times. Often encountered in low visibility areas where they can take you by surprise. Its best to avoid caves until you’re confidant in your blocking and combat skills.

Giant Cave Spiders: You’ll only rarely encounter these, because of their limited environment. You’ll know they’re near from the webs which hang around their homes. They are NOT to be meddled with. First and foremost, they do not feel pain and will never stop unless killed. Their high number of legs makes it likely that you’ll pointlessly hack away at the limbs while the mouth bites your head in half. Beyond these aspects the spider uses poison and sticky webs to ensnare you. Your best bet is to throw/ shoot it from a distance. If you can’t do that, use other piercing or goring weapons to damage its organs. Despite its ignorance toward pain, it still bleeds like any other animal, so a pierced heart is very effective.

Giant cave swallow: Pretty much harmless things, just big birds. If they harass you, break their wings and strangle them to death for wrestling points.

Giant Eagle: A major problem in fortress mode is little more than a pesky annoyance in adventure mode. If they are giving you trouble though, attempt to wrestle and break one of their wings. This should ground them and make them a much easier target.

Grizzly Bear: A little bigger than the Black Bear, though basically the same. Good for both wrestle and shield points. If they’re really giving you a hard time try catching both hands and its throat. This should not only make it impossible for it to attack, but also give you wrestle points.

Groundhog: Little rodent thingies. Zombie ground hogs are useful to strangle for wrestling experience. Besides that they’re only really good as golf balls for your putter (read Morningstar)

Hoary Marmot: A tiny forest dwelling creature. As harmless as it is delicious.
Horse: A beast of burden sometimes seen in human towns. They have an odd habit of going rouge and kicking children to death. Not to mention they’re some how smart enough to pull crossbow bolts out of their own legs. May cause random insanity if they attack a influential citizen.

Naked mole dog: Think enormous naked mole rat. Unless you’re both unarmed and unskilled these things are basically very bleedy shrubbery to hack your way through.

Mountain Goat: it’s a goat, that lives in the mountains. Likes to kill goblins and its not uncommon to find a few legends about goblin slaying goats. (On a personal note, I once found a goat named Bonecrusher or something like that, which only had one leg. One leg and 7 kills, including a Swordmaster. Don’t fuck with that goat)

Mule: Like a horse, but more inbred. Chances are you’ll never see them.

Musk Ox: Beasts of burden used by elves. Another thing you won’t see.

Pike: The fish, not the weapon. They’re nothing close to the carp and should be little more than particularly squishy speed bumps to you.

Raccoon: Forest rodents that you’ll never see. Make a nifty hat.

Rhesus Macaque :A nettlesome trickster in fortress mode, they are almost never seen in adventure mode. Even if you see them they’re very skittish and a single blow will send them running. Give’em a good strangle if you can catch one.

Unicorn: The random homicidal tendencies of the horse mixed with a dash of magic and a horn. They’re very aggressive for some reason, though not too hard to bring down. Watch out for that horn and stay away until you’re at least competent.

Whale: Big aquatic beast. Not dangerous unless in skeletal mode.

Wolf: And last but not least, the humble and numerous wolf. This is what is gonna be attacking you from now till forever. They’re dangerous the first few ambushes, but they quickly become nothing but barely noticed time wasters. Great for training up armor and shield, as they attack in packs and hence hit you many times, often with no effect. Early on, just be careful not to get caught in the middle of a pack and you’ll be fine.

=== Modifiers ===
Zombie: Zombie animals are just like their normal counterparts, with a few major exceptions. Firstly, they are no longer effected by pain or bleeding and their organs no longer matter. They are also much slower. This combination of increased difficulty in killing and decreased speed about evens out their threat level. Not too dangerous, unless the creature they’re based on is already strong.

Skeletal: All of the advantages of Zombie with none of the bad effects. Skeletal creatures are all immune to pain and do not bleed, but they remain just as quick as their living counterparts. Large skeletal beasts, such as dragons or whales are truly a terror to face.
[size=3]

== Avoid the impossible ==
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

=== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ===
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders (Unless, of course, you enjoy [[Fun]])!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although I eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And I was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them I threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) I grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

=== Arrows ===
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

Another solid solution is to get behind something as quickly as possible and try sneaking. Even when caught in the open cover as flimsy as a single tree may be sufficient to begin sneaking. Sneaking around trees can also sometimes act as a compass for determining the direction of the shooter. By checking when and where sneaking is possible, the approach vector of any given observer or close cluster of observers can be extrapolated.

Finally, since archers are generally sentient, most (besides mayors) can be killed in their sleep.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

== Training yourself ==
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with [[pebbles]], pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

''Alternate way'' : It could be difficult to repeat the {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} sequence without making mistake. So you can just alternate {{k|t}}-{{k|enter}} quickly : The first {{k|t}} will open the inventory, the second will chose the rock which is in "t" position, and {{k|enter}} will throw it. In the same fashion, when collecting rock, prefer a tile where the rock is on "b" position : If you quickly alternate {{k|g}} and {{k|a}}, sometime you will open the [a]nnouncement panel, which will slow you down. Another solution to this is to switch the ''pick up'' and ''announcements'' keys, so you can press {{k|a}} to pick up an item and {{k|a}} to pick up rock.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable - train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

Metal bolts are quite heavy and expensive, so if you wish to train in this skill it would probably be a good idea to raid an old fortress of yours first and get all the wooden/bone bolts there.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot, and breaking that legendary swordsmans sword hand at the beginning of the fight will make him laughably weak. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alive.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

Alternatively, wait until nightfall, and wrestle a sleeping enemy. Sleeping enemies are unconscious, and cannot detect you if you sneak. The autocombat will cause your adventurer to break limbs, grab and release bits of clothing, and other nonlethal attacks. Occasionally random chance will cause a chokehold; simply step back a tile and then resume. In this manner, you can train wrestling extremely quickly without the dangers of wandering in an undead zone.

Yet another alternative is presented by fish. No harmful wrestling moves can be performed on them so cornering a carp, tigerfish, or milkfish will raise wrestling quickly, while training swimming. Avoid hippopotamus infested waters.

A final option presents itself when exploring caves, there are many weak enemies to be found here, choose one (say a ratman) and walk up to it, grabbing it perform a takedown. Before it can stand up grab its arm and try to break it, as soon as it gets up perform another takedown, continue to break all the joints in both of your <s>toy's</s> <s>victim's</s> opponent's arms and then move on to legs, finally gouge out its eyes and begin strangling it to death. This gives you plenty of wrestling exp with very little risk as the enemy will only get in one or two strikes before being taken down after which it will prioritize standing back up.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

Another option is to find a body of water with a ramp into it. Walk down the ramp into the water, which will cause you to start "drowning". However, you can simply walk back out after 10 turns or so to stop drowning, and you will have gained some swimming skill. Repeat until you reach novice skill. If you don't have an abandoned fortress set up for this, slopes into water can be found at ocean beaches.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below. You can also crosstrain melee skills with swimming by picking a river and swimming down it, training Ambush when it's quiet and training melee when it's not. Some rivers have very high densities of fish, giving you lots of targets to hit. They will tend to gather up, bumping into and slowing each other down ahead of you for you to kill and an adventurer will be all but invincible against non-sturgeons after a few statgains. Just remember that Hippos have the right of way.

NOTE: Water does NOT currently cleanse fire, if you are burning, jumping into a pool of water will not save you

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

==== Armor and Shield Use ====

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor - a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

=== Exploration ===

== Basic exploration tips ==
When traveling it’s a good idea to avoid evil areas until you’re reasonably powerful, as they tend to contain stronger enemies. Also avoid caves for this same reason, you never know when a dragon is lurking in the shadows. Remember that only human towns have shops, so don’t die of hunger wandering the dwarves mountain homes looking for that allusive Applebees. Water can be had from rivers and stagnant pools, though fast traveling (shift + t) makes thirst and hunger go away. If you are exploring caves, make sure to have some water and food with you, as some can be quite deep.

== Fortress exploration tips. ==
If you’ve abandoned a fortress in the world and you’re now adventuring, you can find that same fortress on the map. Ask townsfolk about the surroundings and eventually they’ll mention the fortress and its direction. From there you need only to follow the directions till the fortress shows up on your map.
The perils of fortress exploration
If your fortress was abandoned or destroyed there’s more than likely a reason why. Be it magma overflows, flooding, goblin sieges or perhaps digging a little too greedily and too deep there are likely to be remnants of your downfall somewhere in the remains. Wild beasts and sentient invaders alike will more than likely be slugging it out in your once grand halls. Beyond this there is the danger of forgetting what lever does what and accidentally flooding the room with lava or collapsing the entrance.

= The advantages of Fortress exploration =
Depending on how advanced your fortress was it may contain extremely rare, powerful or valuables items. Raiding fortresses is the only way to get adamantine items and wafers, as well as the only way to get artifact weapons. Beyond this, you can read the engravings on the walls in order to fill your legends list.

= Preparation =
Whatever destroyed your fortress is what is going to be squatting in it now. If a goblin siege took you down, then prepare to fight some gobbies. If the horrors of the deep raped your little dwarven ass then prepare to fight those. If they drowned then find some waterwings etc. Make sure you’re fully stocked on arrows (if you use them) as well as water and food. Leaving anything you don’t need back in the tavern in town is a good idea too, as it lets you carry more loot.

= Plumbing the Deep =

While wandering the halls of your old fortress its best to secure each floor one by one, to avoid being ambushed. Explore one entire floor then move on to the next. This isn’t a requirement but it can help in finding the best loot as well as insuring against surprise arrow buttsex. If you start to get overburdened with all the loot climb to a secure floor and dump it in a pile. You can come back for it after you’ve finished exploring. Also note that, while traps no longer work, their components (giants blades, spiked balls etc) remain just as lethal in your hands. Also note that you can pick up and throw ballista bolts.

= What to do with all your newly acquired wealth =

Not much I’m afraid. While masterwork adamantine weapons are very useful and the raw chunks of adamantine are extremely valuable there’s nothing to really buy with them. The adamantine weapons you find are the strongest in the game and shops will never sell anything above iron so once you’ve got the weapons there’s pretty much nothing more you need. This will most likely be fixed in up coming versions (perhaps paying a blacksmith to make you weapons).

=== Summary ===
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs/sand/coins/arms/heads/swords/arrows/kitchen sinks at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2009-08-20T14:27:49Z

Arkenstone: one spelling/grammer edit and added a subtle Lord of the Rings reference....

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that sealed the fate of your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

All the [[skills]] you see CAN be improved through use in game, so don’t worry about spreading them out completely evenly. In general, pick the [[skills]] you think you’re going to use. The [[skills]] are pretty self explanatory but its recommended that you put at least a few points into [[shield]] / [[armor]] and into a type of weapon. Be warned that [[weapon]] [[skills]] generally take a while to level up, so placing a good deal of points into a singe weapon may be to your advantage. Also keep in mind that your skills determine what kind of equipment you have in the beginning, ie high sword skill means you’ll start with a sword. For information on the weapons and the other aspects of combat, please check the combat section. It might also be a good idea to use a point or two for swiming, otherwise you might end up drowning in a puddle.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mead hall. You will see the Mayor (purple) as well as the occational townsperson. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the Citizens and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid if they feel like it (note, people with no combat skills are unlikely to follow you, and the major and town guards never will.) If you choose dwarf, you start out in a region just outside the entrance to a given fortress. There is a [[mayor]] or the [[king]] himself inside the fortress.

Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Survival ===
Congratulations, you’ve created a character and are now about to embark on your fantastic adventure! For now, lets focus on the bare bones of staying alive shall we? First things first, you need food and water. If you’re a human you start with some, but baring that you may need to find a waterskin. These can be bought in human towns, specifically at the shop. DO NOT STEAL THESE OR ANYTHING ELSE. Do not pick anything up and walk outside the store before you trade for it. Why? Because you are currently weak and your neck is currently arrow bait. After getting the water skin, simply find a water source and hit (Shift+I) to interact with the object. Press the letter of the Water skin and you should be able to fill it from the water source. After it’s full press (e)to open the Eat menu and select the water. Food can be acquired from stores eaten in the same way.

Now that you know how to work your mouth we can move on to miscellaneous tips for survival. Firstly, you are very tasty and chances are (unless you’re an elf) the wildlife will soon be attempting to eat your face. A bear or cougar isn’t too much of a problem because there’s only one, the real problem will be wolf packs.
A single wolf is easy to dispatch, but a dozen or so can prove very problematic indeed. Beware large packs until you’ve gained a little experience. Secondly, do not piss off the towns folk, as they tend to have guards. Lastly, beware of taking quests or attempting things before you’re ready, as you will more than likely have tons of [[fun]]
=== Civilization? ===
Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and are marked with an "H" on the town auto-map. Medium buildings are stores, marked with a symbol that indicates what they sell - food, weapons, clothing, and two kinds of trinkets (incidentally, armor and clothing is sold in the same building). As of the current version, you start in the mead hall which is marked with an "M" on the automap. There are one or two apartment buildings buildings which are two stories, with six rooms a story; they are also marked with an "H." There are two really large buildings - the "T"emple and the a fort-like building that is marked with "K." Temples tend to have two or three levels, and a pool of water, while the "K" buildings are three or four floors high and are almost entirely empty (they will occationally contain random smatterings of clothing though, if you're looking for things to sell.)

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are one 1-tale wide hallways, empty rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress Mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

==== Selling ====
You can also sell things to traders. Bones, corpses, body parts and rocks are not valuable, no matter how attached you are to a particularly aerodynamic kobold head. Small creatures discovered while {{k|L}}ooking Carefully may be worth a small amount of money. In order to sell or buy items, stand adjacent to the shopkeeper in his store, and {{k|k}}onverse with the shopkeeper. Select "Trade" and press {{k|enter}} to open the trade window.

Select each non-worthless item you wish to sell, and then set a price using the following format{{verify}}:
* {{k|a}} asking for 9000☼
* {{k|s}} +100☼
* {{k|d}} +10☼
* {{k|f}} +1☼
* {{k|g}} reset to 0☼
* {{k|h}} -1☼ (offering)
* {{k|j}} -10☼
* {{k|k}} -100☼
* {{k|l}} offer 9000☼

The use of these keys may seem non-intuitive, and this is further complicated by the limit on your available offers by your current financial health.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit. After the trade sessions, the balance of your coins will appear on a small table next to a chest.

[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' travel a considerable distance before allowing you to travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

====Managing coins====
Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most commonly giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world. Please harvest sustainably.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

=== Combat ===
== The Weapons ==
Weapons are basically divided into ax, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area. Swords are your jack of all trades weapon, doing reasonable slashing damage. They come in short, long and two handed varieties, with the two handed doing the most damage and the short doing the least. Axes are similar to swords and do slashing damage as well. They come in 3 types, battle ax, great ax and halberd. The battle ax does slightly less damage than the long sword while the halberd does the same damage as a two-handed sword. The Great ax is generally too large to use, but it does slightly more than the halberd in damage. The spear does piercing damage and is ideal for damaging internal organs and causing heavy bleeding and unconsciousness. It has no variations. The spear is much more likely to become stuck in its target, which can be a great benefit if used right and a curse if not. The Pike is, for all intents and purposes, the same as a spear. The mace and the hammer are generally the same thing, simply a big metal thing to club your enemies over the head. As expected, they do high damage but their bludgeoning attacks tend to be slower and less effective , if more hilarious, ways to dispatch your foes. The Maul, a hammer, is the highest damaging weapon in the game. The last weapon is the whip, which does gore damage. Its relatively weak but has its uses. The bow throws arrows, which act as tiny spears. Basically, a bow and crossbow is like having a very slow, long range spear.

== Weapon Tactics ==
Sword: Once again, your general fall back weapon. It’s good against almost everything, if not being that great against almost anything. Works well against both living and non-living enemies as it actively dismembers them.

Ax: Pretty much the same as a sword, though some people believe it hacks off limbs more commonly. Good against organics, acceptable against anything else.

Spear/Pike: Ok, here’s where we get a little bit more advanced. The spear is most effective against organic creatures because of two abilities, pierce damage and stick ins. Piercing damage does major harm to internal organs, causing pain, bleeding, vomiting, unconsciousness and death. Stick-ins are when the weapon becomes stuck in the target, allowing it to be twisted. Twisting increases bleeding and causes extreme pain. Because of these two factors spears and pikes are ideal for single combat against organic targets. The are less effective against multiple enemies (because of the stick-ins lowering kill-to-turn ratios) and are even less effective against non-organic enemies (ie bronze colossus).

Mace/hammer: These weapons rely on their ability to turn your opponent into a tasty pulp through repeated wacking. They break bones and bruise flesh, meaning that aside from a critical hit they generally are less likely to mortal wounds quickly. They are great for crippling organics and non-organics alike, but when it comes to a swift, efficient death they are generally less than perfect. The exception to this is high strength and mace/hammer skill which allows for instant head crushing.

Whip: The whip uses gore damage, which is similar to a cross between slash and pierce. It can cut off limbs but is more likely to slice up organs and cause extreme pain and bleeding. A few hits will generally render an opponent unconscious and perhaps even badly injured enough to eventually bleed to death. However, the whip is a slow outright killer, sometimes needing dozens of blows to actually finish its target.

Bow (and arrows): Arrows are much like spears, because of their piercing damage and all the benefits it has. The benefits it has however are its range and its ability to target multiple enemies. They are most effective against organic targets. You, unfortunately, are organic, which makes archers one of your biggest problems.

== Non-weapon tactics ==

Besides your weapons you have two other major forms of attack: Wrestling and throwing.

Wrestling: Wrestling can be preformed by standing next to an enemy and pressing (Shift+a) and then (enter) to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy, however things such as wolves, bears and big cats do not allow you to perform the more advanced moves. After catching hold of a body part you can perform a lock, which allows you to further sprain, break or cripple an opponent. With a free hand you can perform even more advanced moves, such as gouging out eyes or stealing weapons. To gouge eyes grab a head with an open hand, to steal a weapon, grab the weapon and then check your inventory with (Shift+I). press the button corresponding to the weapon and then press a to gain possession of it.

One of the best tactics for fighting high level weapon masters is to either break his weapon hand or to steal his weapon, essentially making him no more dangerous than a normal peasant.

Throwing: Throwing is the skill of…well basically throwing shit. And vomit. And bugs and spears and rocks so on. Just about anything can be thrown, sometimes with devastating results. While it seems like weapons (and arrows) tend to be more reliable in their damage causing abilities when thrown, just about anything can potentially be lethal. Picking up a worm and hucking it right through a dragon’s skull is not only possible, but has been done on multiple occasions. A warrior with a high throw skill is often times more dangerous with an arrow than a trained archer is.

=== Wounds ===
You or your enemy are going to get hurt in the course of your adventures and its pretty useful to know exactly what’s happening when you are. Here’s a quick guide to the various aspects of wounds.

== Wound indicators ==
Wounds come in several colors and are indicated on the status screen (press z to see your own status screen while pressing (l) to look at your enemy’s). The status screen will list your body parts in different colors to indicate how damaged they are.
White-unhurt and feeling fine

Light gray-slightly damaged, think a nasty scrape or cut.

Brownish yellow-moderately damaged, such as a mild sprain or the like

Yellow-Broken. Applied to joints it means literally broken, while applied to upper and lower body it generally means organ damage.

Red-Badly damaged. If you got this then chances are you’re in bad shape. Severely broken bones or ruptured organs. If this status is effecting anything even remotely vital you’re more than likely on your way to the grave.

Gray-lopped off or cut out. This is when you completely lose a body part. Effects include massive pain and bleeding along with ruining your promising juggling career.

== Wound effects ==
Hands-damage to the fingers or wrists can cause you to drop your held items, but usually only with yellow level damage. Losing a hand entirely gives you a serious handicap, which will more than likely lead to fun in the future.

Feet-Causes slowed movement and falling. If removed can cause permanent slowed movement. Removing both can cause a continuous on ground effect.

Legs-similar to feet, though often has increased bleeding and pain effects. Loss of one will usually result in death by bleed out. Even if you survive you’re more than likely on your way to death. Severed legs do make a lovely club though.

Arms- Damage to almost any part of the arm can cause items to be dropped. Loss of an arm is perhaps even worse than the loss of a leg, due to the loss of weapon and wrestling capabilities. Loss of both arms is both tragic and hilarious.

Head-Contains the brain, ears, mouth, nose, eyes and throat. Ears, nose and mouth are officially useless and can be cut off in an effort to appear cool. The brain, eyes and throat are however less disposable. Damage to the eyes results in loss of vision, permanent if the eyes are removed, and terrible pain. Its usually not possible to bleed to death from the loss of the eyes though. The throat is highly sensitive and damage causes both extreme bleeding and suffocation effects. The brain is the most important thing you’ve got and damage to it is an almost instant death. Any wound it receives will more than likely cause instant unconsciousness and severe bleeding.

Upper body. Contains the heart, lungs, upper spine and liver and kidneys. Both the kidneys and liver have similar effects, namely heavy bleeding and pain upon injury. The spine causes nervous system damage, which can have several, sometimes permanent effects. The lungs control breathing, so piercing them can cause suffocation. The heart is the main organ of the circulatory system and damage to it is almost always fatal through bleeding.

Lower body: Contains various organs like the stomach and spleen, all of which have the same effect of bleeding, pain and nausea. Nausea leads to vomiting, which make the wounded creature unable to attack. There is also the lower spine which has similar effects to the upper spine.

== Attack types and their wounds ==
Pierce-dangerous to organic creatures, you included. Often times objects with the pierce effect will become lodged in their target. Removing the weapon from its lodged position causes both increased pain and bleeding but often times can alleviate certain symptoms the piercing has caused.

Bludgeon: Breaks bones and cripples joints. Generally less dangerous to the internal organs than other damage. The danger comes from its ability to incapacitate you and then turn your head to mush.

Slash: Dangerous for its ability to sever limbs and cause bleeding. Beware its habit of decapitation.

Gore: Shreds internal organs, causing all sorts of nasty side effects. Almost worthless on non-organic enemies but can cause severe problems for you living sorts.

== Dealing with wounds ==
In adventure mode your wounds will heal if you travel (shift + t) and they’ll recover just about anything except a lopped off limb. If you can’t travel the best thing to do is try and run from battle if you’re badly wounded, since running will give you time to stop bleeding and suppress the pain. Beware dropping your weapon and make sure to pick it up before you make a run for it. If an arrow strikes you in the chest its best to leave it there while an arrow to the extremities can be removed.

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some new members to your party, you'll not only gain extra damage output, you'll also have someone else to take the damage instead of you!

When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks. They are found in human towns inside the [[tavern]] with the [[Mayor]] (the building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill [[wrestling]] and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill. Drunks are much rarer in the current version of the game, so it's unlikely that you'll find one.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

Some otherwise eligible companions may rebuff your offer of becoming a living shield for one of the following reasons:

If the prospective meat shield considers himself more skilled than you are, he may rebuff you with, "Ha! Such enthusiasm from one such as yourself."
This can be remedied by training your skills until he judges you a bit more skillful than he is.

Another reason for someone to refuse to die protecting you is that you already have the maximum of 12 companions, and they will rebuff you by asking, "With a band so large, what share of the glory would I have?"
But look at it this way, at least your total party size is 13 when you count yourself! Now that's lucky!

Another possiblity is to asked your old, retired adventurers for help. They'll never say no unless your party is too big and they should be pretty capible since you trained them.

==== The Perils of the Wild ====

{{d for dwarf}}

You’ll face many creatures on your travels, several mega and semi-mega bests included if you’re taking quests. Heres a quick look at the more dangerous beasts (sentient or not) that you’ll meet.

=== The Mega and Semi-mega beasts and the sentient races ===

Bronze Colossus: Probably one of the hardest beasts to combat due to its massive strength, impressive natural armor and complete ignorance of pain, fear and bleeding. Bronze Colossi are basically walking, dwarf crushing statues that will never stop unless beheaded or outright obliterated. They have no organs and do not bleed, making them impossible to knock unconscious. Their immense strength makes them unlikely to give in to wrestling moves (though if you can manage to lock and break a limb it will snap off rather than just becoming useless.) Because of these resistances all you can really do is hack / shoot and hope that it dies before you do.

Dragon: The main danger of these beasts is their massive fire breath, which can consume dozens of spaces. A high block still is recommended before you fight them. A spear is a great weapon here, as it allows you to potentially knock them unconscious within a few turns. Arrows are also good, though staying at a distance can be dangerous because of the fire breath. Beware their bite, as it can cause major damage.

Hydra: a joke really, as It seems to lack the regenerative powers of its mythological cousin. It has 7 heads, but damage to one is as serious as damaging the head of a one headed beast. More than likely you’ll have it unconscious in a few turns regardless of what you use.

Titan: basically an organic bronze colossus. It is essentially a larger, stronger human, with all the weaknesses being the same. Piercing and goring damage can quickly weaken and incapacitate these beasts, but keep an eye out for its wrestling, which can cause some bad joint damage.

Cyclops: A weaker, smaller titan with one eye. Eye+arrow=win

Ettin: A two headed giant. Basically a stronger human, usually unarmed. Just hack it until it dies.

Giant: Just a giant human like thing. Stab it in the neck or break its limbs for massive damage.

Minotaur: Only thing really dangerous about this guy is his horns. Pretty good wrestler but nothing that should give a reasonably prepared adventurer any problems.

Humans: Should you wander into battle against a human force its in your best interest to disable their archers first. The only real danger humans have is their numbers and their use of items. Disarming or crippling dangerous guards or weapon maters is highly recommended, since as soon as they are weaponless they are essentially as good as dead.

Elves: They have wooden equipment, making them laughable most of the time. Once again, the only real threat is their archers and even then they are less dangerous than humans. Elves are generally known for being annoying dicks so its recommended that you slaughter the lot. If you are an elf its recommended that you have tons of fun.

Dwarves: Their advantage is their steel weaponry and crossbows. Their disadvantage is that their mountain homes are generally so large that you’ll only rarely fight more than one or two. Disable their weapon masters and archers then throw their own axes at them. Juggle their heads in front of their children.

Goblins: Like weaker dwarves, with less armor and less skill. They have a feeble sense of morals, meaning that they will only sometimes attack you after you hurt one of their friends. You can basically cleave right through them with ease.

=== Other Humanoids ===

These are creatures that in shape resemble something human, but have no society.

Antman: A half man half ant hybrid which lives in chasms. They have higher natural armor than a man, but rarely use tools. As long as you’re armed they should pose no problem.

Batman: Half man, half bat that lives in caves and chasms. They can fly and use weapons, though they rarely do. Attacks with punches and bites; the bites are the most potentially damaging because they cause gore damage. He is the night.

Blizzard man: Frosty’s asshole brother. Blizzard men are creatures of pure ice that strangely still have organs. They can bite and punch, with biting doing the most damage. They will melt in normal temperatures so they are only found in freezing areas.

Dark gnome: Mischievous mountain folk who enjoy hard liquor. They‘re basically dwarfs but smaller and no where near as dangerous. Its rare that you’ll even find them, but if you do they should pose no threat to you. They punch and bite but neither is noticeable.

Fire Imp: Little gremlin like things that are either constantly on fire or made of fire. They’re found only in subterranean lava pits, meaning that you’ll have to go searching for them if you’re ever gonna see one. They only bite (does burn damage rather than gore), but their real danger comes from their ability to set you on fire. Ranged combat is recommended, though darting forward, attacking and then jumping away might be effective if you have no other choice. They can also breathe fire at you though, so its again recommended to stay back.

Firemen: Like the fire imps, but better. They have the bronze colossus syndrome of having no organs, not bleeding, feeling pain or being able to have weapons stuck in them. They too can set you ablaze, but they’re much harder to kill before they do it. Bludgeoning can break and hence sever their limbs. Recommended that you fight from a distance. Luckily these things only live in underground lava, so you’ll never find them without going into very specific places.

Frogman: No not those things Race Banon was always killing, but half man half frogs that live in underground water. They can’t equip weapons and are very small, making them almost completely non-threatening.

Iron man: Millionaire Tony Stark puts on his…oops wrong one. Ironmen are like firemen but less dangerous because they aren’t on fire. They are basically smaller, less dangerous Bronze Colossi. When killed they leave a valuable iron statue. They appear only in chasms.

Leechman: Half man, Half leech, all sexy. They have no bones, but curiously do have arms (but no legs). They can suck blood, but considering they have no bones and every blow will almost always strike a vital organ its a lot more likely that blood will be coming out of it than you.

Lizardman: Half man, half lizard; lives in underground water. Punches and bites along with the ability to use items. Similar to many of the other half breeds, but with one notable exception. He’s a lizard.

Magma man: A man made of pure magma. Everything about this guy is the exact same as the fire man, with the exception that he can’t breathe fire. This makes him less dangerous at a distance. Stay back and throw stuff at him.

Merpersons: Tiny little mermaids and mermen. Not dangerous at all, and relatively rare to boot. They can equip items but you’ll probably never see one anyway.

Mountain Gnome: The same as a Dark Gnome, but less evil. Same things apply here.

Mud man: Like Ironman but made of mud. Can’t equip items and only has a weak punch as a form of attack, making it about as threatening as a mudpie. Lives in underground water.

Orge: The middle ground between giant and human. Their punches and bites do a surprisingly small amount of damage, though they can use weapons. As with any big, organic moron its recommended to try and damage their organs to quickly incapacitate and kill them. Piercing damage is very useful.

Olmman: Half man, half blind cave salamander. Think Golum but even more messed up and without eyes. Their bites are surprisingly strong. Found only in subterranean water and even then only rarely. (personal note: Olms are pretty damn awesome things (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olm) they’re even on the money in one country.)

Ratman: Seems to attack with 4 turtle men cronies, who are surprisingly good warriors. But seriously, they’re about as weak as actual rats. They only come from chasms so don’t worry about them too much.

Slugman: Do I even have to say? it’s a dang slug man, do you think its dangerous? Its not. Just stab it in its deformed face.

Snail man: Think slug man, but with a shell that doesn’t actually offer any protection.

Snakemen: The only real threat these guys pose is their ability to inject poison by biting. If it does bite you its your best bet to try and quickly kill the snake man before his poison takes effect, since it can incapacitate you.

Troglodyte: Small, reptilian creatures that live underground. Not dangerous unless they attack in swarms and even then they are easily beaten by even a novice adventurer. Use organic combating techniques to deal with them.

Troll: There’s no real difference between this thing and an orge. Kill them both the same way.

Werewolf: Or wolfman. Attacks alone and only bites with a goring attack. Bite can be dangerous but the fact that there is only one of him makes it a lot easier to fight. Fun to wrestle for experience.

=== Wildlife ===

Here’s the rundown of all the mundane beasties that you’ll run into

Beak dog: Basically what happens when parrot gets combined with Velociraptors. They’re a little smaller than a man but quick and use their beaks and claws effectively. Try not to get caught in the center of a group of them, backpedal and cut them down as they give chase.

Black Bear: These will only ambush you one on one, and given their relative small size and forgettable strength they should pose little threat unless you’re completely unskilled and unarmed. Because there’s only one they can be useful for wrestling practice since you can focus all your attention on them.

Bonobo: I’ve never seen one myself, though I’ve been told they’re ape like things. Considering their squishy organs it would be best to stab them in the groin.

Camel: Its…a camel. You’ll probably never see one.

Carp: BEHOLD, FOR ARMOK BREATHED LIFE INTO THE VERY ROCKS IN THE RIVERS AND COMMANDED THEM TO GO FORTH AND MUTALATE RANDOM PASSERS BY. TO HIS DWARVEN FOLLOWERS HE EXPLAINED IT THUS, “F*** YOU”-the tome of Armok, chapter 2. In all seriousness though, while they may be freaking fresh water sharks in the fortress mode, carp aren’t too dangerous in adventure mode. Their biggest advantage is their environment, being water which you can not breathe.

Cat: IT’S A KITTY! Anyways, you’ll almost always have too many of these things in fortress and you’ll never see them in adventure. Even if you did, what would you do with them? You wouldn’t hurt them would you? Fucking Nazi.

Cougar: Like a kitty, but bigger. Cougars are good wrestling practice and good shield training as well, what with the fact that Cougars suck so hard. If you get killed by this thing it was either insanely lucky or you have no arms.

Cow: It’s a cow. Kill it for free hamburgers. I’m actually not even sure if you can find the dang things in adventure mode.

Deer: You might see these running away from you in the woods. They’re harmless but good wrestling practice if you feel like strangling a defenseless animal.

Dog: WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF I’ve never seen one of these in adventure mode, but its pretty obvious what they are huh?

Donkey: Pulls wagons and things like that. You might see one but its not really worth attacking them.

Elephants: In prior versions elephants were murderous berserkers, but thankfully they’ve been made a little more realistic. They’re just as big and strong as you’d expect, but won’t bother you unless you walk up and stab’em a few times. Reasonably dangerous, so don’t poke them unless you’re ready.

Elk: Much like deer, though a little bigger and usually solitary

Fox: Another small animal that you’ll most likely never see. If you do however, its proper to light them on fire and scream “YIFF IN HELL”.

Giant bat: Bigger than a minotaur and more dangerous at times. Often encountered in low visibility areas where they can take you by surprise. Its best to avoid caves until you’re confidant in your blocking and combat skills.

Giant Cave Spiders: You’ll only rarely encounter these, because of their limited environment. You’ll know they’re near from the webs which hang around their homes. They are NOT to be meddled with. First and foremost, they do not feel pain and will never stop unless killed. Their high number of legs makes it likely that you’ll pointlessly hack away at the limbs while the mouth bites your head in half. Beyond these aspects the spider uses poison and sticky webs to ensnare you. Your best bet is to throw/ shoot it from a distance. If you can’t do that, use other piercing or goring weapons to damage its organs. Despite its ignorance toward pain, it still bleeds like any other animal, so a pierced heart is very effective.

Giant cave swallow: Pretty much harmless things, just big birds. If they harass you, break their wings and strangle them to death for wrestling points.

Giant Eagle: A major problem in fortress mode is little more than a pesky annoyance in adventure mode. If they are giving you trouble though, attempt to wrestle and break one of their wings. This should ground them and make them a much easier target.

Grizzly Bear: A little bigger than the Black Bear, though basically the same. Good for both wrestle and shield points. If they’re really giving you a hard time try catching both hands and its throat. This should not only make it impossible for it to attack, but also give you wrestle points.

Groundhog: Little rodent thingies. Zombie ground hogs are useful to strangle for wrestling experience. Besides that they’re only really good as golf balls for your putter (read Morningstar)

Hoary Marmot: A tiny forest dwelling creature. As harmless as it is delicious.
Horse: A beast of burden sometimes seen in human towns. They have an odd habit of going rouge and kicking children to death. Not to mention they’re some how smart enough to pull crossbow bolts out of their own legs. May cause random insanity if they attack a influential citizen.

Naked mole dog: Think enormous naked mole rat. Unless you’re both unarmed and unskilled these things are basically very bleedy shrubbery to hack your way through.

Mountain Goat: it’s a goat, that lives in the mountains. Likes to kill goblins and its not uncommon to find a few legends about goblin slaying goats. (On a personal note, I once found a goat named Bonecrusher or something like that, which only had one leg. One leg and 7 kills, including a Swordmaster. Don’t fuck with that goat)

Mule: Like a horse, but more inbred. Chances are you’ll never see them.

Musk Ox: Beasts of burden used by elves. Another thing you won’t see.

Pike: The fish, not the weapon. They’re nothing close to the carp and should be little more than particularly squishy speed bumps to you.

Raccoon: Forest rodents that you’ll never see. Make a nifty hat.

Rhesus Macaque :A nettlesome trickster in fortress mode, they are almost never seen in adventure mode. Even if you see them they’re very skittish and a single blow will send them running. Give’em a good strangle if you can catch one.

Unicorn: The random homicidal tendencies of the horse mixed with a dash of magic and a horn. They’re very aggressive for some reason, though not too hard to bring down. Watch out for that horn and stay away until you’re at least competent.

Whale: Big aquatic beast. Not dangerous unless in skeletal mode.

Wolf: And last but not least, the humble and numerous wolf. This is what is gonna be attacking you from now till forever. They’re dangerous the first few ambushes, but they quickly become nothing but barely noticed time wasters. Great for training up armor and shield, as they attack in packs and hence hit you many times, often with no effect. Early on, just be careful not to get caught in the middle of a pack and you’ll be fine.

=== Modifiers ===
Zombie: Zombie animals are just like their normal counterparts, with a few major exceptions. Firstly, they are no longer effected by pain or bleeding and their organs no longer matter. They are also much slower. This combination of increased difficulty in killing and decreased speed about evens out their threat level. Not too dangerous, unless the creature they’re based on is already strong.

Skeletal: All of the advantages of Zombie with none of the bad effects. Skeletal creatures are all immune to pain and do not bleed, but they remain just as quick as their living counterparts. Large skeletal beasts, such as dragons or whales are truly a terror to face.
[size=3]

== Avoid the impossible ==
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

=== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ===
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders (Unless, of course, you enjoy [[Fun]])!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although I eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And I was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them I threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) I grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

=== Arrows ===
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

Another solid solution is to get behind something as quickly as possible and try sneaking. Even when caught in the open cover as flimsy as a single tree may be sufficient to begin sneaking. Sneaking around trees can also sometimes act as a compass for determining the direction of the shooter. By checking when and where sneaking is possible, the approach vector of any given observer or close cluster of observers can be extrapolated.

Finally, since archers are generally sentient, most (besides mayors) can be killed in their sleep.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

== Training yourself ==
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with [[pebbles]], pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

''Alternate way'' : It could be difficult to repeat the {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} sequence without making mistake. So you can just alternate {{k|t}}-{{k|enter}} quickly : The first {{k|t}} will open the inventory, the second will chose the rock which is in "t" position, and {{k|enter}} will throw it. In the same fashion, when collecting rock, prefer a tile where the rock is on "b" position : If you quickly alternate {{k|g}} and {{k|a}}, sometime you will open the [a]nnouncement panel, which will slow you down. Another solution to this is to switch the ''pick up'' and ''announcements'' keys, so you can press {{k|a}} to pick up an item and {{k|a}} to pick up rock.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable - train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot, and breaking that legendary swordsmans sword hand at the beginning of the fight will make him laughably weak. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alive.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

Alternatively, wait until nightfall, and wrestle a sleeping enemy. Sleeping enemies are unconscious, and cannot detect you if you sneak. The autocombat will cause your adventurer to break limbs, grab and release bits of clothing, and other nonlethal attacks. Occasionally random chance will cause a chokehold; simply step back a tile and then resume. In this manner, you can train wrestling extremely quickly without the dangers of wandering in an undead zone.

Yet another alternative is presented by fish. No harmful wrestling moves can be performed on them so cornering a carp, tigerfish, or milkfish will raise wrestling quickly, while training swimming. Avoid hippopotamus infested waters.

A final option presents itself when exploring caves, there are many weak enemies to be found here, choose one (say a ratman) and walk up to it, grabbing it perform a takedown. Before it can stand up grab its arm and try to break it, as soon as it gets up perform another takedown, continue to break all the joints in both of your <s>toy's</s> <s>victim's</s> opponent's arms and then move on to legs, finally gouge out its eyes and begin strangling it to death. This gives you plenty of wrestling exp with very little risk as the enemy will only get in one or two strikes before being taken down after which it will prioritize standing back up.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

Another option is to find a body of water with a ramp into it. Walk down the ramp into the water, which will cause you to start "drowning". However, you can simply walk back out after 10 turns or so to stop drowning, and you will have gained some swimming skill. Repeat until you reach novice skill. If you don't have an abandoned fortress set up for this, slopes into water can be found at ocean beaches.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below. You can also crosstrain melee skills with swimming by picking a river and swimming down it, training Ambush when it's quiet and training melee when it's not. Some rivers have very high densities of fish, giving you lots of targets to hit. They will tend to gather up, bumping into and slowing each other down ahead of you for you to kill and an adventurer will be all but invincible against non-sturgeons after a few statgains. Just remember that Hippos have the right of way.

NOTE: Water does NOT currently cleanse fire, if you are burning, jumping into a pool of water will not save you

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

==== Armor and Shield Use ====

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor - a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

=== Exploration ===

== Basic exploration tips ==
When traveling it’s a good idea to avoid evil areas until you’re reasonably powerful, as they tend to contain stronger enemies. Also avoid caves for this same reason, you never know when a dragon is lurking in the shadows. Remember that only human towns have shops, so don’t die of hunger wandering the dwarves mountain homes looking for that allusive Applebees. Water can be had from rivers and stagnant pools, though fast traveling (shift + t) makes thirst and hunger go away. If you are exploring caves, make sure to have some water and food with you, as some can be quite deep.

== Fortress exploration tips. ==
If you’ve abandoned a fortress in the world and you’re now adventuring, you can find that same fortress on the map. Ask townsfolk about the surroundings and eventually they’ll mention the fortress and its direction. From there you need only to follow the directions till the fortress shows up on your map.
The perils of fortress exploration
If your fortress was abandoned or destroyed there’s more than likely a reason why. Be it magma overflows, flooding, goblin sieges or perhaps digging a little too greedily and too deep there are likely to be remnants of your downfall somewhere in the remains. Wild beasts and sentient invaders alike will more than likely be slugging it out in your once grand halls. Beyond this there is the danger of forgetting what lever does what and accidentally flooding the room with lava or collapsing the entrance.

= The advantages of Fortress exploration =
Depending on how advanced your fortress was it may contain extremely rare, powerful or valuables items. Raiding fortresses is the only way to get adamantine items and wafers, as well as the only way to get artifact weapons. Beyond this, you can read the engravings on the walls in order to fill your legends list.

= Preparation =
Whatever destroyed your fortress is what is going to be squatting in it now. If a goblin siege took you down, then prepare to fight some gobbies. If the horrors of the deep raped your little dwarven ass then prepare to fight those. If they drowned then find some waterwings etc. Make sure you’re fully stocked on arrows (if you use them) as well as water and food. Leaving anything you don’t need back in the tavern in town is a good idea too, as it lets you carry more loot.

= Plumbing the Deep =

While wandering the halls of your old fortress its best to secure each floor one by one, to avoid being ambushed. Explore one entire floor then move on to the next. This isn’t a requirement but it can help in finding the best loot as well as insuring against surprise arrow buttsex. If you start to get overburdened with all the loot climb to a secure floor and dump it in a pile. You can come back for it after you’ve finished exploring. Also note that, while traps no longer work, their components (giants blades, spiked balls etc) remain just as lethal in your hands. Also note that you can pick up and throw ballista bolts.

= What to do with all your newly acquired wealth =

Not much I’m afraid. While masterwork adamantine weapons are very useful and the raw chunks of adamantine are extremely valuable there’s nothing to really buy with them. The adamantine weapons you find are the strongest in the game and shops will never sell anything above iron so once you’ve got the weapons there’s pretty much nothing more you need. This will most likely be fixed in up coming versions (perhaps paying a blacksmith to make you weapons).

=== Summary ===
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs/sand/coins/arms/heads/swords/arrows/kitchen sinks at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d:Adventurer mode

2009-08-20T13:48:39Z

Arkenstone: Censored it slightly (F*** instead of UCK)

In '''adventurer mode''', you pick a race ([[dwarf]], [[human]], or [[elf]]) and start out in either a [[Site|town]] of your race or in a previous [[fortress]] you played on. You can receive [[quest]]s, venture into the wilderness to find [[caves]], abandoned towers and other [[Site|villages]]. You can even visit your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] and find whatever riches were left to be guarded by the [[creatures]] that sealed the fate of your [[fortress]].

The user interface differs somewhat from [[fortress mode]]; you may want to refer to the [[Adventure Mode quick reference|quick reference]] guide, or examine the detailed [[controls]] page. [[Site map]] may also prove useful.

== Your first adventure ==

=== Picking a race ===
When it comes to picking a race, there is difference in [[skills]]. [[Dwarves]] cannot wear [[human]] sized [[armor]], and are somewhat limited in the [[weapons]] they can wield due to their size. [[Elves]] have a slightly different set of [[skills]]. [[Humans]] are generally fairly well-balanced, and are the easiest to acquire quests from. Each race fares differently in combat; you may wish to look at the races' pages for the finer details.

=== Choosing skills ===
Basically, if you want to start with a [[weapon]], you need to avoid having the most points spent in unarmored/[[wrestling]]. If you, for example, choose to start out with most points in [[swordsman]], you will start out with a [[sword]]. When you have chosen your preferred set of [[skills]], you can press {{key|Enter}} to embark. The higher the [[skills]] in [[weapons]]/[[armor]] determine the quality of the equipment you start out with.

All the [[skills]] you see CAN be improved through use in game, so don’t worry about spreading them out completely evenly. In general, pick the [[skills]] you think you’re going to use. The [[skills]] are pretty self explanatory but its recommended that you put at least a few points into [[shield]] / [[armor]] and into a type of weapon. Be warned that [[weapon]] [[skills]] generally take a while to level up, so placing a good deal of points into a singe weapon may be to your advantage. Also keep in mind that your skills determine what kind of equipment you have in the beginning, ie high sword skill means you’ll start with a sword. For information on the weapons and the other aspects of combat, please check the combat section. It might also be a good idea to use a point or two for swiming, otherwise you might end up drowning in a puddle.

=== Setting out ===
If you chose human, you will start out inside the Mead hall. You will see the Mayor (purple) as well as the occational townsperson. Press {{key|k}} and talk to the Mayor. Press 'services' for a [[quest]]. You can talk to the Citizens and recruit them to your party for some additional combat aid if they feel like it (note, people with no combat skills are unlikely to follow you, and the major and town guards never will.) If you choose dwarf, you start out in a region just outside the entrance to a given fortress. There is a [[mayor]] or the [[king]] himself inside the fortress.

Be sure to read the [[Adventure Mode quick reference]] or use the help files for more information on the commands in Adventure mode.

=== Survival ===
Congratulations, you’ve created a character and are now about to embark on your fantastic adventure! For now, lets focus on the bare bones of staying alive shall we? First things first, you need food and water. If you’re a human you start with some, but baring that you may need to find a waterskin. These can be bought in human towns, specifically at the shop. DO NOT STEAL THESE OR ANYTHING ELSE. Do not pick anything up and walk outside the store before you trade for it. Why? Because you are currently weak and your neck is currently arrow bait. After getting the water skin, simply find a water source and hit (Shift+I) to interact with the object. Press the letter of the Water skin and you should be able to fill it from the water source. After it’s full press (e)to open the Eat menu and select the water. Food can be acquired from stores eaten in the same way.

Now that you know how to work your mouth we can move on to miscellaneous tips for survival. Firstly, you are very tasty and chances are (unless you’re an elf) the wildlife will soon be attempting to eat your face. A bear or cougar isn’t too much of a problem because there’s only one, the real problem will be wolf packs.
A single wolf is easy to dispatch, but a dozen or so can prove very problematic indeed. Beware large packs until you’ve gained a little experience. Secondly, do not piss off the towns folk, as they tend to have guards. Lastly, beware of taking quests or attempting things before you’re ready, as you will more than likely have tons of [[fun]]
=== Civilization? ===
Elves live out in the forest, literally. Although defined to specific regions on the map, they have no structural wealth whatsoever. Some trees are named.

Humans live in towns comprised of buildings and often a paved road. Human villages are highly modular. The small 5x5 buildings are citizen houses and are marked with an "H" on the town auto-map. Medium buildings are stores, marked with a symbol that indicates what they sell - food, weapons, clothing, and two kinds of trinkets (incidentally, armor and clothing is sold in the same building). As of the current version, you start in the mead hall which is marked with an "M" on the automap. There are one or two apartment buildings buildings which are two stories, with six rooms a story; they are also marked with an "H." There are two really large buildings - the "T"emple and the a fort-like building that is marked with "K." Temples tend to have two or three levels, and a pool of water, while the "K" buildings are three or four floors high and are almost entirely empty (they will occationally contain random smatterings of clothing though, if you're looking for things to sell.)

Dwarves live underground. Their entrances are large square pits with stairs around the perimeter, and a row of leading down into the fortress halls at the bottom. The main halls are wide and have pillars near the walls, long and occasionally turn corners. Different levels in the fortress are marked by a row of ramps with two pillars on the side (walk towards the side of the ramp that has the pillars) and, although the number of floors in a fortress can vary, they are usually little and only become deep if the lay of the land above is variable. There are one 1-tale wide hallways, empty rooms, and scant Dwarves in these pre-fab fortresses. It's obvious the computer is playing a completely different game than you are in [[Fortress Mode]]!

Goblins live in [[obsidian]] towers, usually found built in twos, though they both don't necessarily have to be built up. One could be a "tower," one could be an over-glorified "basement." There is probably a temple nearby, completely similar to human temples. Goblin towers have tight 1-wide hallways, spacious and empty rooms, and strange hall extensions that end in remote cross-like dead-ends. Like dwarf fortresses, there is rarely anything in a Goblin tower asides from Goblins, and they have a strange tendency not to attack non-Goblin visitors. They seem to have lots of children.

You may come across what the map defines as a "Goblin" city that is actually populated by Humans or Dwarves living in or around the towers.

=== Trading ===
In towns you can find merchants inside some [[buildings]]. Talk to them to trade with them. After buying an item, you must pick it up manually from somewhere in the shop. {{K|l}}ook around for an item without $ signs around it.

==== Selling ====
You can also sell things to traders. Bones, corpses, body parts and rocks are not valuable, no matter how attached you are to a particularly aerodynamic kobold head. Small creatures discovered while {{k|L}}ooking Carefully may be worth a small amount of money. In order to sell or buy items, stand adjacent to the shopkeeper in his store, and {{k|k}}onverse with the shopkeeper. Select "Trade" and press {{k|enter}} to open the trade window.

Select each non-worthless item you wish to sell, and then set a price using the following format{{verify}}:
* {{k|a}} asking for 9000☼
* {{k|s}} +100☼
* {{k|d}} +10☼
* {{k|f}} +1☼
* {{k|g}} reset to 0☼
* {{k|h}} -1☼ (offering)
* {{k|j}} -10☼
* {{k|k}} -100☼
* {{k|l}} offer 9000☼

The use of these keys may seem non-intuitive, and this is further complicated by the limit on your available offers by your current financial health.

Shopkeepers are used to adventurers with inflated ideas about the value of their goods, so it may be simplest to ask for 9000☼ for your goods, or offer 1☼ for theirs and suggest a {{k|t}}rade. The shopkeeper will counteroffer with the actual value of the goods, and will be quite delighted to accept a {{k|t}}rade at the price they've just quoted to you. You can then purchase things with your store credit. After the trade sessions, the balance of your coins will appear on a small table next to a chest.

[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

====Theft====
You may also pick up the item before buying it, but you should never walk out of a shop carrying an unbought item, as that is theft. It is punishable by death if you are caught, and excommunication if you are not. On any occasion when you have stolen goods from a store, ie goods bounded by the $$ signs, the game requires you to exit the site ''and'' travel a considerable distance before allowing you to travel. This may make a getaway more difficult if your adventurer is not already faster than anyone else. This only applies to goods in stores; killing townsfolk and taking their personal things, including those of the shopkeep still only requires exiting the site. The moment you are out of sight, you will be able to warp out as usual. Theft and murder remain within entities; even depopulating one country and stealing all its things will not generate ill response in another country.

====Managing coins====
Coins can and will encumber your adventurer, eventually reducing your speed. To reduce that effect you can try to exchange your copper and silver coins for gold ones. To do that you can purchase goods from a merchant to the sum of your copper coins, then sell them back. Check the merchant's chest to see how much gold and silver coins they have. You can delay the problem by selling your loot to many merchants, as they will try to pay you in higher denomination currency first.

A few goods are strictly superior to all forms of coinage as a store of value, most commonly giant cave spider silk items. A suitably sneaky (or powerful) adventurer can murder a few dwarves for such items for trade and sale for human goods. Giant cave spider silk is a non-renewable resource in a given world. Please harvest sustainably.

=== Equipping your adventurer ===
After acquiring [[armor]] from one source or another, you'll most likely want to equip it. To do this, first make sure it is in your possession--not on the ground. You can then {{key|w}}ear it, granted you don't already have too much on that equipment slot already. You can {{key|r}}emove or {{key|d}}rop inferior equipment as necessary.

[[Weapons]] and [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shields]] are handled differently. There is no explicit equipment command. Instead, they are automatically equipped when you either {{k|g}}et them from the ground or {{k|r}}emove them from your [[backpack]] - provided the hand that would wield them is free. So in order to change [[weapons]] or [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|Shields]] you would need to {{k|p}}ut your equipped weapon into your [[backpack]] and then {{k|r}}emoving your new desired weapon. You do not need to drop weapons and equip new ones etc. Simply remember the {{k|r}}emove command and the {{k|p}}ut into container command.

It should be noted that the world of DF seems to have a lot of left handers, so do not be surprised if your character holds the weapon with the left hand and the [[Armor#Shields and Bucklers|shield]] with the right hand.

== Traveling the world ==

=== How-to ===
You can walk around the whole world tile by tile if you wish, but given the size of the world, you might want to consider using another method. Pressing {{key|T}} will let see a very zoomed out map of the surrounding area. Moving about on this map is much faster, as well as it heals your adventurer, keeps him from starving, dehydrating, or getting tired. To exit this screen and explore the area you've reached, press {{k|>}}.

If there is more than one feature such as a [[Site|town]] or group of [[creatures]] on that map tile you will get to choose which one you want to arrive near.

Also while traveling on the world map, there is a chance that your adventurer can get randomly ambushed by enemies. When that happens, you must survive by either fighting them off or hide from them.

Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]] is not normally advisable; however, it is possible to do so by holding {{key|Alt}} while pressing the appropriate movement key. Jumping off [[Cliff|cliffs]], depending on how high you jumped, will most of the time cover your eyes in blood, which lessens visuals.

=== Finding quest locations ===
After receiving a [[quest]], you will be able to track its location using the {{key|Q}}uest log. Initially it will just give you the location on the {{key|T}}ravel map, though a lesser-known feature is its use in finding the cave entry (or other such target) once you're already in the [[Site map|local map]]. Bring up the quest log again, highlight the quest objective you're after, and {{key|z}}oom to it. It should then provide you with a local map of your current area, complete with a 3x3 box of flashing squares. This box indicates the general location of the cave's mouth. You'll still have to do some searching, but at least it's narrowed down for you. You can bring up this map at any time that you're in the local area of a quest objective.

The compass on the left of the screen will also greatly help you in finding the entrance; the direction indicated should place you within one screen's distance of the entrance before it turns into "---".

=== Visiting abandoned fortresses ===
If you start an adventure in a world with one or more abandoned [[Fortress|fortresses]], you can take your adventurer to see the sites of your previous endeavors. When you find one of your old [[Fortress|fortresses]], you will find that everything is a mess. Items are scattered about, things are smashed up and there are probably new hostile inhabitants that you will need to fend off. Visiting your old [[Fortress|fortresses]] might prove to be rewarding, since you can find [[armor]] and [[weapons]] you made (if you made any). The best thing to be found in your [[fortress]] would probably be any left behind [[Legendary artifact|artifact]] [[weapon]] or [[armor]]. This is also probably the best (and only?) way to get [[Legendary artifact|artifact-quality]] [[weapons]] and [[armor]].

Also remember to check out any [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] you made while in [[fortress mode]]. When checking out [[Engraving#Engravings|engravings]] in adventure mode, they reveal a lot more specific information about the event that is engraved.

=== Combat ===
== The Weapons ==
Weapons are basically divided into ax, sword, spear, pike, mace, whip, bow and hammer, with various versions of these taking up the gray area. Swords are your jack of all trades weapon, doing reasonable slashing damage. They come in short, long and two handed varieties, with the two handed doing the most damage and the short doing the least. Axes are similar to swords and do slashing damage as well. They come in 3 types, battle ax, great ax and halberd. The battle ax does slightly less damage than the long sword while the halberd does the same damage as a two-handed sword. The Great ax is generally too large to use, but it does slightly more than the halberd in damage. The spear does piercing damage and is ideal for damaging internal organs and causing heavy bleeding and unconsciousness. It has no variations. The spear is much more likely to become stuck in its target, which can be a great benefit if used right and a curse if not. The Pike is, for all intents and purposes, the same as a spear. The mace and the hammer are generally the same thing, simply a big metal thing to club your enemies over the head. As expected, they do high damage but their bludgeoning attacks tend to be slower and less effective , if more hilarious, ways to dispatch your foes. The Maul, a hammer, is the highest damaging weapon in the game. The last weapon is the whip, which does gore damage. Its relatively weak but has its uses. The bow throws arrows, which act as tiny spears. Basically, a bow and crossbow is like having a very slow, long range spear.

== Weapon Tactics ==
Sword: Once again, your general fall back weapon. It’s good against almost everything, if not being that great against almost anything. Works well against both living and non-living enemies as it actively dismembers them.

Ax: Pretty much the same as a sword, though some people believe it hacks off limbs more commonly. Good against organics, acceptable against anything else.

Spear/Pike: Ok, here’s where we get a little bit more advanced. The spear is most effective against organic creatures because of two abilities, pierce damage and stick ins. Piercing damage does major harm to internal organs, causing pain, bleeding, vomiting, unconsciousness and death. Stick-ins are when the weapon becomes stuck in the target, allowing it to be twisted. Twisting increases bleeding and causes extreme pain. Because of these two factors spears and pikes are ideal for single combat against organic targets. The are less effective against multiple enemies (because of the stick-ins lowering kill-to-turn ratios) and are even less effective against non-organic enemies (ie bronze colossus).

Mace/hammer: These weapons rely on their ability to turn your opponent into a tasty pulp through repeated wacking. They break bones and bruise flesh, meaning that aside from a critical hit they generally are less likely to mortal wounds quickly. They are great for crippling organics and non-organics alike, but when it comes to a swift, efficient death they are generally less than perfect. The exception to this is high strength and mace/hammer skill which allows for instant head crushing.

Whip: The whip uses gore damage, which is similar to a cross between slash and pierce. It can cut off limbs but is more likely to slice up organs and cause extreme pain and bleeding. A few hits will generally render an opponent unconscious and perhaps even badly injured enough to eventually bleed to death. However, the whip is a slow outright killer, sometimes needing dozens of blows to actually finish its target.

Bow (and arrows): Arrows are much like spears, because of their piercing damage and all the benefits it has. The benefits it has however are its range and its ability to target multiple enemies. They are most effective against organic targets. You, unfortunately, are organic, which makes archers one of your biggest problems.

== Non-weapon tactics ==

Besides your weapons you have two other major forms of attack: Wrestling and throwing.

Wrestling: Wrestling can be preformed by standing next to an enemy and pressing (Shift+a) and then (enter) to switch to wrestling. You can wrestle any enemy, however things such as wolves, bears and big cats do not allow you to perform the more advanced moves. After catching hold of a body part you can perform a lock, which allows you to further sprain, break or cripple an opponent. With a free hand you can perform even more advanced moves, such as gouging out eyes or stealing weapons. To gouge eyes grab a head with an open hand, to steal a weapon, grab the weapon and then check your inventory with (Shift+I). press the button corresponding to the weapon and then press a to gain possession of it.

One of the best tactics for fighting high level weapon masters is to either break his weapon hand or to steal his weapon, essentially making him no more dangerous than a normal peasant.

Throwing: Throwing is the skill of…well basically throwing shit. And vomit. And bugs and spears and rocks so on. Just about anything can be thrown, sometimes with devastating results. While it seems like weapons (and arrows) tend to be more reliable in their damage causing abilities when thrown, just about anything can potentially be lethal. Picking up a worm and hucking it right through a dragon’s skull is not only possible, but has been done on multiple occasions. A warrior with a high throw skill is often times more dangerous with an arrow than a trained archer is.

=== Wounds ===
You or your enemy are going to get hurt in the course of your adventures and its pretty useful to know exactly what’s happening when you are. Here’s a quick guide to the various aspects of wounds.

== Wound indicators ==
Wounds come in several colors and are indicated on the status screen (press z to see your own status screen while pressing (l) to look at your enemy’s). The status screen will list your body parts in different colors to indicate how damaged they are.
White-unhurt and feeling fine

Light gray-slightly damaged, think a nasty scrape or cut.

Brownish yellow-moderately damaged, such as a mild sprain or the like

Yellow-Broken. Applied to joints it means literally broken, while applied to upper and lower body it generally means organ damage.

Red-Badly damaged. If you got this then chances are you’re in bad shape. Severely broken bones or ruptured organs. If this status is effecting anything even remotely vital you’re more than likely on your way to the grave.

Gray-lopped off or cut out. This is when you completely lose a body part. Effects include massive pain and bleeding along with ruining your promising juggling career.

== Wound effects ==
Hands-damage to the fingers or wrists can cause you to drop your held items, but usually only with yellow level damage. Losing a hand entirely gives you a serious handicap, which will more than likely lead to fun in the future.

Feet-Causes slowed movement and falling. If removed can cause permanent slowed movement. Removing both can cause a continuous on ground effect.

Legs-similar to feet, though often has increased bleeding and pain effects. Loss of one will usually result in death by bleed out. Even if you survive you’re more than likely on your way to death. Severed legs do make a lovely club though.

Arms- Damage to almost any part of the arm can cause items to be dropped. Loss of an arm is perhaps even worse than the loss of a leg, due to the loss of weapon and wrestling capabilities. Loss of both arms is both tragic and hilarious.

Head-Contains the brain, ears, mouth, nose, eyes and throat. Ears, nose and mouth are officially useless and can be cut off in an effort to appear cool. The brain, eyes and throat are however less disposable. Damage to the eyes results in loss of vision, permanent if the eyes are removed, and terrible pain. Its usually not possible to bleed to death from the loss of the eyes though. The throat is highly sensitive and damage causes both extreme bleeding and suffocation effects. The brain is the most important thing you’ve got and damage to it is an almost instant death. Any wound it receives will more than likely cause instant unconsciousness and severe bleeding.

Upper body. Contains the heart, lungs, upper spine and liver and kidneys. Both the kidneys and liver have similar effects, namely heavy bleeding and pain upon injury. The spine causes nervous system damage, which can have several, sometimes permanent effects. The lungs control breathing, so piercing them can cause suffocation. The heart is the main organ of the circulatory system and damage to it is almost always fatal through bleeding.

Lower body: Contains various organs like the stomach and spleen, all of which have the same effect of bleeding, pain and nausea. Nausea leads to vomiting, which make the wounded creature unable to attack. There is also the lower spine which has similar effects to the upper spine.

== Attack types and their wounds ==
Pierce-dangerous to organic creatures, you included. Often times objects with the pierce effect will become lodged in their target. Removing the weapon from its lodged position causes both increased pain and bleeding but often times can alleviate certain symptoms the piercing has caused.

Bludgeon: Breaks bones and cripples joints. Generally less dangerous to the internal organs than other damage. The danger comes from its ability to incapacitate you and then turn your head to mush.

Slash: Dangerous for its ability to sever limbs and cause bleeding. Beware its habit of decapitation.

Gore: Shreds internal organs, causing all sorts of nasty side effects. Almost worthless on non-organic enemies but can cause severe problems for you living sorts.

== Dealing with wounds ==
In adventure mode your wounds will heal if you travel (shift + t) and they’ll recover just about anything except a lopped off limb. If you can’t travel the best thing to do is try and run from battle if you’re badly wounded, since running will give you time to stop bleeding and suppress the pain. Beware dropping your weapon and make sure to pick it up before you make a run for it. If an arrow strikes you in the chest its best to leave it there while an arrow to the extremities can be removed.

=== <s>Living Shields</s> Companions ===

If you recruit some new members to your party, you'll not only gain extra damage output, you'll also have someone else to take the damage instead of you!

When you first start out, the easiest <s>human shields</s> friends to recruit are the drunks. They are found in human towns inside the [[tavern]] with the [[Mayor]] (the building you start in if you play a human). They will gladly come with you and block some blows for you. Drunks will usually attempt low-skill [[wrestling]] and (mostly) damage-less punches. Don't expect them to last long when you meet that [[Giant]] you are supposed to kill. Drunks are much rarer in the current version of the game, so it's unlikely that you'll find one.

To recruit someone into your party, press tal{{k|k}}, move the cursor over them, and press {{k|enter}}. Then in the conversation that follows, simply pick 'Join' from the list of options to ask them to accompany you. [[Children]], the Mayor, and [[Guard]]s don't want any part of this silly adventuring malarkey, but the occasional peasant will be bored enough to join you.

More detailed searches of towns of various races can yield other adventurers with some actual skills. The generally have a single weapon skill ([[Maceman]], [[Swordsman]], [[Spearman]] and so on) and some armor appropriate to the wealth of the town they were occupying. You will also find Guards around towns, and while they are combat-capable they will not shirk their duty in order to accompany you on your adventures.

Some otherwise eligible companions may rebuff your offer of becoming a living shield for one of the following reasons:

If the prospective meat shield considers himself more skilled than you are, he may rebuff you with, "Ha! Such enthusiasm from one such as yourself."
This can be remedied by training your skills until he judges you a bit more skillful than he is.

Another reason for someone to refuse to die protecting you is that you already have the maximum of 12 companions, and they will rebuff you by asking, "With a band so large, what share of the glory would I have?"
But look at it this way, at least your total party size is 13 when you count yourself! Now that's lucky!

Another possiblity is to asked your old, retired adventurers for help. They'll never say no unless your party is too big and they should be pretty capible since you trained them.

==== The Perils of the Wild ====

{{d for dwarf}}

You’ll face many creatures on your travels, several mega and semi-mega bests included if you’re taking quests. Heres a quick look at the more dangerous beasts (sentient or not) that you’ll meet.

=== The Mega and Semi-mega beasts and the sentient races ===

Bronze Colossus: Probably one of the hardest beasts to combat due to its massive strength, impressive natural armor and complete ignorance of pain, fear and bleeding. Bronze Colossi are basically walking, dwarf crushing statues that will never stop unless beheaded or outright obliterated. They have no organs and do not bleed, making them impossible to knock unconscious. Their immense strength makes them unlikely to give in to wrestling moves (though if you can manage to lock and break a limb it will snap off rather than just becoming useless.) Because of these resistances all you can really do is hack / shoot and hope that it dies before you do.

Dragon: The main danger of these beasts is their massive fire breath, which can consume dozens of spaces. A high block still is recommended before you fight them. A spear is a great weapon here, as it allows you to potentially knock them unconscious within a few turns. Arrows are also good, though staying at a distance can be dangerous because of the fire breath. Beware their bite, as it can cause major damage.

Hydra: a joke really, as It seems to lack the regenerative powers of its mythological cousin. It has 7 heads, but damage to one is as serious as damaging the head of a one headed beast. More than likely you’ll have it unconscious in a few turns regardless of what you use.

Titan: basically an organic bronze colossus. It is essentially a larger, stronger human, with all the weaknesses being the same. Piercing and goring damage can quickly weaken and incapacitate these beasts, but keep an eye out for its wrestling, which can cause some bad joint damage.

Cyclops: A weaker, smaller titan with one eye. Eye+arrow=win

Ettin: A two headed giant. Basically a stronger human, usually unarmed. Just hack it until it dies.

Giant: Just a giant human like thing. Stab it in the neck or break its limbs for massive damage.

Minotaur: Only thing really dangerous about this guy is his horns. Pretty good wrestler but nothing that should give a reasonably prepared adventurer any problems.

Humans: Should you wander into battle against a human force its in your best interest to disable their archers first. The only real danger humans have is their numbers and their use of items. Disarming or crippling dangerous guards or weapon maters is highly recommended, since as soon as they are weaponless they are essentially as good as dead.

Elves: They have wooden equipment, making them laughable most of the time. Once again, the only real threat is their archers and even then they are less dangerous than humans. Elves are generally known for being annoying dicks so its recommended that you slaughter the lot. If you are an elf its recommended that you have tons of fun.

Dwarves: Their advantage is their steel weaponry and crossbows. Their disadvantage is that their mountain homes are generally so large that you’ll only rarely fight more than one or two. Disable their weapon masters and archers then throw their own axes at them. Juggle their heads in front of their children.

Goblins: Like weaker dwarves, with less armor and less skill. They have a feeble sense of morals, meaning that they will only sometimes attack you after you hurt one of their friends. You can basically cleave right through them with ease.

=== Other Humanoids ===

These are creatures that in shape resemble something human, but have no society.

Antman: A half man half ant hybrid which lives in chasms. They have higher natural armor than a man, but rarely use tools. As long as you’re armed they should pose no problem.

Batman: Half man, half bat that lives in caves and chasms. They can fly and use weapons, though they rarely do. Attacks with punches and bites; the bites are the most potentially damaging because they cause gore damage. He is the night.

Blizzard man: Frosty’s asshole brother. Blizzard men are creatures of pure ice that strangely still have organs. They can bite and punch, with biting doing the most damage. They will melt in normal temperatures so they are only found in freezing areas.

Dark gnome: Mischievous mountain folk who enjoy hard liquor. They‘re basically dwarfs but smaller and no where near as dangerous. Its rare that you’ll even find them, but if you do they should pose no threat to you. They punch and bite but neither is noticeable.

Fire Imp: Little gremlin like things that are either constantly on fire or made of fire. They’re found only in subterranean lava pits, meaning that you’ll have to go searching for them if you’re ever gonna see one. They only bite (does burn damage rather than gore), but their real danger comes from their ability to set you on fire. Ranged combat is recommended, though darting forward, attacking and then jumping away might be effective if you have no other choice. They can also breathe fire at you though, so its again recommended to stay back.

Firemen: Like the fire imps, but better. They have the bronze colossus syndrome of having no organs, not bleeding, feeling pain or being able to have weapons stuck in them. They too can set you ablaze, but they’re much harder to kill before they do it. Bludgeoning can break and hence sever their limbs. Recommended that you fight from a distance. Luckily these things only live in underground lava, so you’ll never find them without going into very specific places.

Frogman: No not those things Race Banon was always killing, but half man half frogs that live in underground water. They can’t equip weapons and are very small, making them almost completely non-threatening.

Iron man: Millionaire Tony Stark puts on his…oops wrong one. Ironmen are like firemen but less dangerous because they aren’t on fire. They are basically smaller, less dangerous Bronze Colossi. When killed they leave a valuable iron statue. They appear only in chasms.

Leechman: Half man, Half leech, all sexy. They have no bones, but curiously do have arms (but no legs). They can suck blood, but considering they have no bones and every blow will almost always strike a vital organ its a lot more likely that blood will be coming out of it than you.

Lizardman: Half man, half lizard; lives in underground water. Punches and bites along with the ability to use items. Similar to many of the other half breeds, but with one notable exception. He’s a lizard.

Magma man: A man made of pure magma. Everything about this guy is the exact same as the fire man, with the exception that he can’t breathe fire. This makes him less dangerous at a distance. Stay back and throw stuff at him.

Merpersons: Tiny little mermaids and mermen. Not dangerous at all, and relatively rare to boot. They can equip items but you’ll probably never see one anyway.

Mountain Gnome: The same as a Dark Gnome, but less evil. Same things apply here.

Mud man: Like Ironman but made of mud. Can’t equip items and only has a weak punch as a form of attack, making it about as threatening as a mudpie. Lives in underground water.

Orge: The middle ground between giant and human. Their punches and bites do a surprisingly small amount of damage, though they can use weapons. As with any big, organic moron its recommended to try and damage their organs to quickly incapacitate and kill them. Piercing damage is very useful.

Olmman: Half man, half blind cave salamander. Think Golum but even more messed up and without eyes. Their bites are surprisingly strong. Found only in subterranean water and even then only rarely. (personal note: Olms are pretty damn awesome things (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olm) they’re even on the money in one country.)

Ratman: Seems to attack with 4 turtle men cronies, who are surprisingly good warriors. But seriously, they’re about as weak as actual rats. They only come from chasms so don’t worry about them too much.

Slugman: Do I even have to say? it’s a dang slug man, do you think its dangerous? Its not. Just stab it in its deformed face.

Snail man: Think slug man, but with a shell that doesn’t actually offer any protection.

Snakemen: The only real threat these guys pose is their ability to inject poison by biting. If it does bite you its your best bet to try and quickly kill the snake man before his poison takes effect, since it can incapacitate you.

Troglodyte: Small, reptilian creatures that live underground. Not dangerous unless they attack in swarms and even then they are easily beaten by even a novice adventurer. Use organic combating techniques to deal with them.

Troll: There’s no real difference between this thing and an orge. Kill them both the same way.

Werewolf: Or wolfman. Attacks alone and only bites with a goring attack. Bite can be dangerous but the fact that there is only one of him makes it a lot easier to fight. Fun to wrestle for experience.

=== Wildlife ===

Here’s the rundown of all the mundane beasties that you’ll run into

Beak dog: Basically what happens when parrot gets combined with Velociraptors. They’re a little smaller than a man but quick and use their beaks and claws effectively. Try not to get caught in the center of a group of them, backpedal and cut them down as they give chase.

Black Bear: These will only ambush you one on one, and given their relative small size and forgettable strength they should pose little threat unless you’re completely unskilled and unarmed. Because there’s only one they can be useful for wrestling practice since you can focus all your attention on them.

Bonobo: I’ve never seen one myself, though I’ve been told they’re ape like things. Considering their squishy organs it would be best to stab them in the groin.

Camel: Its…a camel. You’ll probably never see one.

Carp: BEHOLD, FOR ARMOK BREATHED LIFE INTO THE VERY ROCKS IN THE RIVERS AND COMMANDED THEM TO GO FORTH AND MUTALATE RANDOM PASSERS BY. TO HIS DWARVEN FOLLOWERS HE EXPLAINED IT THUS, “F*** YOU”-the tome of Armok, chapter 2. In all seriousness though, while they may be freaking fresh water sharks in the fortress mode, carp aren’t too dangerous in adventure mode. Their biggest advantage is their environment, being water which you can not breathe.

Cat: IT’S A KITTY! Anyways, you’ll almost always have too many of these things in fortress and you’ll never see them in adventure. Even if you did, what would you do with them? You wouldn’t hurt them would you? Fucking Nazi.

Cougar: Like a kitty, but bigger. Cougars are good wrestling practice and good shield training as well, what with the fact that Cougars suck so hard. If you get killed by this thing it was either insanely lucky or you have no arms.

Cow: It’s a cow. Kill it for free hamburgers. I’m actually not even sure if you can find the dang things in adventure mode.

Deer: You might see these running away from you in the woods. They’re harmless but good wrestling practice if you feel like strangling a defenseless animal.

Dog: WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF WOOF I’ve never seen one of these in adventure mode, but its pretty obvious what they are huh?

Donkey: Pulls wagons and things like that. You might see one but its not really worth attacking them.

Elephants: In prior versions elephants were murderous berserkers, but thankfully they’ve been made a little more realistic. They’re just as big and strong as you’d expect, but won’t bother you unless you walk up and stab’em a few times. Reasonably dangerous, so don’t poke them unless you’re ready.

Elk: Much like deer, though a little bigger and usually solitary

Fox: Another small animal that you’ll most likely never see. If you do however, its proper to light them on fire and scream “YIFF IN HELL”.

Giant bat: Bigger than a minotaur and more dangerous at times. Often encountered in low visibility areas where they can take you by surprise. Its best to avoid caves until you’re confidant in your blocking and combat skills.

Giant Cave Spiders: You’ll only rarely encounter these, because of their limited environment. You’ll know they’re near from the webs which hang around their homes. They are NOT to be meddled with. First and foremost, they do not feel pain and will never stop unless killed. Their high number of legs makes it likely that you’ll pointlessly hack away at the limbs while the mouth bites your head in half. Beyond these aspects the spider uses poison and sticky webs to ensnare you. Your best bet is to throw/ shoot it from a distance. If you can’t do that, use other piercing or goring weapons to damage its organs. Despite its ignorance toward pain, it still bleeds like any other animal, so a pierced heart is very effective.

Giant cave swallow: Pretty much harmless things, just big birds. If they harass you, break their wings and strangle them to death for wrestling points.

Giant Eagle: A major problem in fortress mode is little more than a pesky annoyance in adventure mode. If they are giving you trouble though, attempt to wrestle and break one of their wings. This should ground them and make them a much easier target.

Grizzly Bear: A little bigger than the Black Bear, though basically the same. Good for both wrestle and shield points. If they’re really giving you a hard time try catching both hands and its throat. This should not only make it impossible for it to attack, but also give you wrestle points.

Groundhog: Little rodent thingies. Zombie ground hogs are useful to strangle for wrestling experience. Besides that they’re only really good as golf balls for your putter (read Morningstar)

Hoary Marmot: A tiny forest dwelling creature. As harmless as it is delicious.
Horse: A beast of burden sometimes seen in human towns. They have an odd habit of going rouge and kicking children to death. Not to mention they’re some how smart enough to pull crossbow bolts out of their own legs. May cause random insanity if they attack a influential citizen.

Naked mole dog: Think enormous naked mole rat. Unless you’re both unarmed and unskilled these things are basically very bleedy shrubbery to hack your way through.

Mountain Goat: it’s a goat, that lives in the mountains. Likes to kill goblins and its not uncommon to find a few legends about goblin slaying goats. (On a personal note, I once found a goat named Bonecrusher or something like that, which only had one leg. One leg and 7 kills, including a Swordmaster. Don’t fuck with that goat)

Mule: Like a horse, but more inbred. Chances are you’ll never see them.

Musk Ox: Beasts of burden used by elves. Another thing you won’t see.

Pike: The fish, not the weapon. They’re nothing close to the carp and should be little more than particularly squishy speed bumps to you.

Raccoon: Forest rodents that you’ll never see. Make a nifty hat.

Rhesus Macaque :A nettlesome trickster in fortress mode, they are almost never seen in adventure mode. Even if you see them they’re very skittish and a single blow will send them running. Give’em a good strangle if you can catch one.

Unicorn: The random homicidal tendencies of the horse mixed with a dash of magic and a horn. They’re very aggressive for some reason, though not too hard to bring down. Watch out for that horn and stay away until you’re at least competent.

Whale: Big aquatic beast. Not dangerous unless in skeletal mode.

Wolf: And last but not least, the humble and numerous wolf. This is what is gonna be attacking you from now till forever. They’re dangerous the first few ambushes, but they quickly become nothing but barely noticed time wasters. Great for training up armor and shield, as they attack in packs and hence hit you many times, often with no effect. Early on, just be careful not to get caught in the middle of a pack and you’ll be fine.

=== Modifiers ===
Zombie: Zombie animals are just like their normal counterparts, with a few major exceptions. Firstly, they are no longer effected by pain or bleeding and their organs no longer matter. They are also much slower. This combination of increased difficulty in killing and decreased speed about evens out their threat level. Not too dangerous, unless the creature they’re based on is already strong.

Skeletal: All of the advantages of Zombie with none of the bad effects. Skeletal creatures are all immune to pain and do not bleed, but they remain just as quick as their living counterparts. Large skeletal beasts, such as dragons or whales are truly a terror to face.
[size=3]

== Avoid the impossible ==
Some things are harder than others. Decide for yourself if this is due to unbalancing of the game, realism or simply to add to the variety of challenges.

=== [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelob Shelob]'s in-laws, aka Giant Cave Spiders ===
Unless you are a legendary or better (ok, its not possible to go beyond legendary..) bow-/crossbowman, you should at all costs AVOID giant cave spiders (Unless, of course, you enjoy [[Fun]])!! They shoot a web at you, making you immobilized while they rip your limbs off one by one. Then when you finally break free from the web, and can attack again, you've probably lost your arms while lying on the floor and the spider is about to throw you by your head up into the roof. Cave Spiders bleed to death eventually, but they know no fear nor pain, meaning they will not black out even if you manage to inflict serious damage including severed limbs. They are also capable of surviving red-level wounds to the body and legs and multiple severed limbs for long enough to eviscerate an adventurer. Leave these for the living shields to deal with while you slip out the other way, ideally from the cave entirely, never to return.

Even if you are a legendary projectile weapon user, reconsider attacking a giant cave spider because in the tight quarters of a cave you might be shooting it from stealth when a giant rat or something similarly stupid walks next to you and triggers your loss of cover. The spider would then punish your arrogance immensely.

''Note'': If absolutely required they ARE killable, but you need luck, and lots of it. Adept swordsman + Proficient [[shield]] user + Skilled ambusher manages to sneak up on it and then counterstrike + block does the job. In a suicide swordsman test run I had dethoraxation (decapitation for spiders) = instakill on the first counterstrike, second GCS got a mortal wound before it webbed me and bled to death while trying to chew through me, only broke sword wielding hand and leg. Third spider broke my shield hand and had me mortally wounded in no time after that, although I eventually killed it after unwebbing myself. That makes it ~2.5/3 chances to win, not bad for a rookie. And I was healed after each successful spider kill.

''To conclude'': Basically, as long as your shield wielding hand is intact (and shield skill is high of course) you have pretty good chances of survival in 1 on 1, otherwise you're dead. Any extra armor (in my case exceptional full plate + normal armor skill) also helps in glancing off their bites.

Another interesting thing is that before fighting one of them I threw a spear at it and it lodged in the wound, and it seems that the spider has a priority to break my grip as it repeatedly successfully broke my grip every time(that happened ~5-6 times in a row) I grabbed the lodged spear. That points to a possible distraction for a GCS in case of soloing it.

=== Arrows ===
Don't take on quests where you need to kill elite bow-/crossbowmen! Generally, avoid flying arrows! Why? Because bow/crossbowmen have the tendency to see farther than you can. They are therefore able to fire at you from beyond your sight, making it hard to see where the arrow(s) are coming from. You may therefor end up chasing the shooter in the wrong direction, giving the shooter even MORE time to turn you into a pin-cushion. Of course, this is only the case if you manage to survive the first 3-4 arrows, because arrows are BAD for anyone but the shooter's health. Piercing hits like arrows are much more likely to damage internal organs, and while you might shrug off a moderate blunt hit to the chest a similar piercing hit could directly damage one or both lungs or your heart and instantly kill you.

One extremely useful survival tip is to immediately drop prone (with the s key) as soon as you notice you are being shot at. Prone targets move more slowly, but seem to be much harder to hit with ranged attacks than standing ones. This is also worth noting to avoid wasting ammunition on fallen targets.

Another solid solution is to get behind something as quickly as possible and try sneaking. Even when caught in the open cover as flimsy as a single tree may be sufficient to begin sneaking. Sneaking around trees can also sometimes act as a compass for determining the direction of the shooter. By checking when and where sneaking is possible, the approach vector of any given observer or close cluster of observers can be extrapolated.

Finally, since archers are generally sentient, most (besides mayors) can be killed in their sleep.

If you do accept a quest against an elite bowman or crossbowman and manage to reach melee range, immediately grapple its weapon, ideally by dropping yours and pulling the weapon out of its grasp entirely before throwing it away.

== Training yourself ==
Gaining stats ([[Attributes|strength, agility, toughness]]) helps a lot when fighting. How to best train yourself?

==== Throwing ====
To find rocks simply hit {{k|l}} and look at any rock coulored tiles some of these will be simply called by the rock name (e.g. [[limestone]]) and cannot be picked up but some will be called pebbles. Rocks are practically free ammo. When you find a tile with [[pebbles]], pick up a lot of them (there are infinite rocks), and start throwing them. You can simply throw them at the tile you are standing at. Every throw will gain you 30 points toward the skill "Throwing", and will after a while increase your stats (Strength, agility, toughness). You will need to throw 600 rocks to reach legendary Thrower (starting with no skill).

For best efficiency, drop all of your gear (including held but not worn items) and empty out your backpack near your throwing location. This is done in order to keep your inventory simple for the rock-throwing portion. Then pick up a ton of rocks by pressing {{k|g}}-{{k|a}} over and over- ideally one would pick up 600 rocks at a single time, but you will probably get bored before then. Then, mash {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} over and over until all of your rocks are thrown back at the floor. If you are not a legendary Thrower after this, repeat. Afterwards, remember to pick up your gear and re-fill your backpack.

''Alternate way'' : It could be difficult to repeat the {{k|t}}-{{k|a}}-{{k|enter}} sequence without making mistake. So you can just alternate {{k|t}}-{{k|enter}} quickly : The first {{k|t}} will open the inventory, the second will chose the rock which is in "t" position, and {{k|enter}} will throw it. In the same fashion, when collecting rock, prefer a tile where the rock is on "b" position : If you quickly alternate {{k|g}} and {{k|a}}, sometime you will open the [a]nnouncement panel, which will slow you down. Another solution to this is to switch the ''pick up'' and ''announcements'' keys, so you can press {{k|a}} to pick up an item and {{k|a}} to pick up rock.

Thrown objects are also a cheap way to injure enemies before they reach you if you are a melee fighter.

You can also throw other stuff you find, like flies, beetles, worms, and even vomit or [[sand]]. If you have a tendency to chop off enemy limbs, you can even throw these limbs. Killing zombies with their companion's severed heads and feet is always good for a laugh. [[iron_man|Iron men]] are fun, because they leave behind a nice [[statue]] for the taking which can be thrown. Arrows and weapons seem to be particularly deadly when thrown because they deal the same damage as they would in melee, including piercing or slashing damage type, but even the most innocuous or silly items can come up with a kill.

Most thrown objects deal blunt type damage, so they will break and bruise limbs, but arrows and weapons can deal their normal damage types. This is particularly useful to consider when trying for a desperate one-shot kill on a [[Giant Cave Spider]] that's about to web you and shred you into little chunks, as piercing attacks like thrown arrows and [[spear]]s damage internal organs (making them more likely to get a one-hit kill, as an enemy can live through having the outside of their head moderately damaged but not from having the same amount of damage done to their brain) and thrown axes or swords can sever body parts and leave deep gashes (leading to massive bleeding or slit throats).

==== Bow/Crossbow-skill ====
This skill trains in the same fashion as throwing. You gain skill per shot, not per hit. This is a more expensive skill to train than throwing because you need to buy (or find) arrows/bolts, but is also a much more deadly skill. Fired projectiles do much more damage than thrown ones, and are also piercing type weapons which can do crippling damage to internal organs. The majority of thrown weapons are blunt and will do much more superficial bruising and bone-breaking damage- at best, a lucky hit will break someone's spine or damage internal organs to a small degree. Shooting arrows at enemies is fun, because it is very efficient and will destroy enemies quite easily.

Sadly, this also goes for enemy bow/crossbowmen. You will often be shot in the leg and crippled by an enemy you can't even see, who will then proceed to shoot you in the face until you die - which won't be very long afterwards unless you manage to find something to hide behind. This is somewhat avoidable - train in sneaking to avoid being seen by enemies that could otherwise perforate your skin, and get a good shield and armor to better keep arrows. (See below for both skills).

Make sure to take extra <s>meat shields</s> companions along with you if you're planning on using ranged weapons, it'll take time before you level the appropriate skill to bash things with your weapon in melee so it's imperative you stay out of the fighting till then. Drunks are particularly useful here, as they love to dive on things and collapse into a massive wrestling pile which you can take pot-shots at. Don't worry, you can't hit your guys. Not that you'd care.

==== Wrestling ====
Since melee weapon skills are hard train because not every hit gives points towards the skill, why not train your [[wrestling]]? When you are alone with a unconscious enemy, why not break some limbs before finishing it off? Monsters often try to break your arms and legs, so having a bit of skill in wrestling will help break those locks a lot, and breaking that legendary swordsmans sword hand at the beginning of the fight will make him laughably weak. Also, training wrestling is a quicker way to better stats (strength, agility, toughness) because gain points per move instead of per "hit". Wrestling also handles dodging skill which is very handy to have.

A good way to train wrestling is to find an undead region on the map- preferably Sinister if you remember the map layout from Fortress Mode. Obtain a pack of zombie herbivores therein, preferably of small size- do not attempt this with zombie [[elephants]]. Slaughter every zombie in the vicinity of this pack of herbivores but the one that you think is the most crippled, making sure to pick one with a throat to leave alive.

Press {{k|c}} and change your combat preferences from Strike to Close Combat. This means that your default attack when you press towards an enemy to making a random wrestling move, or the continuation (joint lock, break) or (strangle) if you have a break/strangle-able area held.

Then, walk over, and grab the zombie's neck (yes, with your weapon or shield- it is quite optional to drop what you're holding) and begin strangulation by holding the direction the zombie is strangling in. You will make several strangles per second and gain approximately 15 XP (tentative measure) per strangulation. Zombies cannot die from this, so you will earn enough XP to become legendary within a few minutes.

When your character becomes tired, break off from strangling and walk it off- you become less tired by ambling about aimlessly. If you become too hungry or thirsty to continue, just run away or destroy the zombie, {{k|T}}ravel, and then repeat after moving a square and back.

This can also be done at ruins, but you run the risk of weapon-carrying enemies and especially weaponmaster quest-zombies. In an undead ruin, there are also far, far more monsters in the area compared to hunting down a pack of undead animals.

Alternatively, wait until nightfall, and wrestle a sleeping enemy. Sleeping enemies are unconscious, and cannot detect you if you sneak. The autocombat will cause your adventurer to break limbs, grab and release bits of clothing, and other nonlethal attacks. Occasionally random chance will cause a chokehold; simply step back a tile and then resume. In this manner, you can train wrestling extremely quickly without the dangers of wandering in an undead zone.

Yet another alternative is presented by fish. No harmful wrestling moves can be performed on them so cornering a carp, tigerfish, or milkfish will raise wrestling quickly, while training swimming. Avoid hippopotamus infested waters.

A final option presents itself when exploring caves, there are many weak enemies to be found here, choose one (say a ratman) and walk up to it, grabbing it perform a takedown. Before it can stand up grab its arm and try to break it, as soon as it gets up perform another takedown, continue to break all the joints in both of your <s>toy's</s> <s>victim's</s> opponent's arms and then move on to legs, finally gouge out its eyes and begin strangling it to death. This gives you plenty of wrestling exp with very little risk as the enemy will only get in one or two strikes before being taken down after which it will prioritize standing back up.

==== Swimming ====
Having no swimming skill in Adventure Mode is not a particularly good thing if you intend to go near water. Anyone with no swimming skill who falls or is pulled/pushed into water will begin to drown immediately if it is over 4/7 deep, and will also be unable to climb out of water this deep - usually resulting in instant death.

To voluntarily jump into a pond or [[river]] you have to {{k|Alt}}-move off the edge of the land. This will present you with a choice of walking out into the open space above the water (immediately and unsurprisingly followed by a one-story fall) or moving directly into the water. To get back out, {{k|Alt}}-move into the riverbank/pond edge.

As long as you have at least some Swimming skill, you will be able to move around in deeper water and will gain Swimming skill for every tile you move. Without Swimming, you will have to find depth 4 water to voluntarily paddle about in with your water wings on for your first skill points. Any deeper and you'll start to drown, any shallower and you can't swim in it. Hit {{k|m}} to set your swimming options.

Another option is to find a body of water with a ramp into it. Walk down the ramp into the water, which will cause you to start "drowning". However, you can simply walk back out after 10 turns or so to stop drowning, and you will have gained some swimming skill. Repeat until you reach novice skill. If you don't have an abandoned fortress set up for this, slopes into water can be found at ocean beaches.

All in all this makes Novice Swimming an excellent starting skill, as you can (eventually) get Legendary skill simply by swimming back and forth in two squares of water and get lots of stat points in the process. However, this is mind-numbingly dull so good luck with that. One should also keep in mind that water in cooler areas may suddenly freeze when the sun starts to go down, and thus instantly kill any creatures within. As such, it's a good idea to do your training laps somewhere warm.

It also seems that you are not able to move out of water of less than (7/7) onto the river bank. In addition, while you are swimming, you can not move to the travel map! You must first leave the water.

You can crosstrain Ambushing while Swimming to save time- if you start with no Ambushing and Novice Swimming, you will be an Accomplished or Expert Ambusher, give or take, by the time you are a Legendary Swimmer. For more on Ambushing, see below. You can also crosstrain melee skills with swimming by picking a river and swimming down it, training Ambush when it's quiet and training melee when it's not. Some rivers have very high densities of fish, giving you lots of targets to hit. They will tend to gather up, bumping into and slowing each other down ahead of you for you to kill and an adventurer will be all but invincible against non-sturgeons after a few statgains. Just remember that Hippos have the right of way.

NOTE: Water does NOT currently cleanse fire, if you are burning, jumping into a pool of water will not save you

==== Ambushing ====
The Ambusher skill is the parent to the {{k|S}}neak ability, which makes you character move more slowly and stealthily to avoid being noticed. Sneak cannot be activated if an enemy can currently see you, but you can use it immediately if you break line of sight somehow. Sneaking around will increase your Ambusher skill even if nobody is around to see you.

Unfortunately, the best way to train Ambushing is to start sneaking and just hold a direction to run, until you've run 18,000 squares (assuming you started with no skill). This takes a long time, so you may wish to train sneaking just by sneaking whenever possible while playing the game normally in order to avoid boredom.

Sneaking is particularly useful for avoiding ranged attacks, as even Novice skill allows you to get within four or five squares of an enemy before they spot you reliably. It is relatively easy at normal levels of skill to stand anywhere but right next to an enemy and not be spotted for a long time, if ever. However, standing next to sombody without them spotting you is difficult even with legendary skill. However, even if they spot you moving next to them they will only get one shot at you which is a lot better than the hundreds they would have had if you'd been blundering around in the dark too far away to even see them when they opened fire.

If you are far faster than the enemy you can sometimes swoop in, attack, and back off to 1-square distance where you are less visible. Sometimes they will spot you, but other times you can literally slice off the opponent's leg and retreat to a safe distance. This may occur because enemies can only make checks to see if you are sneaking during their own turns, and a very fast (2000+ speed) player can run in, stab them, and retreat to a safe distance before their turn comes up.

The skill also has a valuable part to play in the noble art of running away. As long as you can get out of sight of all the enemies after you at once - such as around a corner indoors, or ducking behind a tree outside - you can start sneaking and head off in another direction. If your skill is too low however the enemies might be close enough to see you as soon as you try to sneak off.

The most useful part of sneaking is undoubtedly the 'stealth throw'. While firing a missile weapon or attacking in melee will get you noticed immediately, throwing things at people will not. Stock up on dead enemies' weapons, clothing and severed body parts and you can pretend you're some gruesome comedy version of Sam Fisher. You know you want to.

==== Armor and Shield Use ====

Armor User lets you wear heavy armor without slowing down, and might control the passive block rate of armor - a very useful skill, if true, because it controls how often your shiny full plate suit will actually work.

Shield User helps the block roll you make when you are attacked. A Legendary Shield User is far, far more capable of taking on enemies, especially projectile-based weaponmasters whose bolts and arrows are blockable with a shield to a far greater degree than with one's torso, so it is worthwhile to train these two skills.

Normally, you gain 10 Shield User XP per time you block an attack with a shield, and 2 Armor User XP per time you are attacked while wearing armor. This means that to gain the 18,000 XP necessary for legendary, you must block 1800 strikes, and be attacked at least 9000 times. Naturally, this could take some time- time in which a low-skill adventurer may die from attacks by worthy opponents.

However, a useful shortcut exists- if you find a small zombie herbavore to strangle in the above wrestling training method, you can also (if it is a small and non-dangerous animal such as a zombie [[groundhog]]) {{k|s}}it down next to it (to minimize your own speed and thus get attacked more often) and hold {{k|5}} to sit down next to the animal and block its attacks over and over. This is still slow, but leagues faster than waiting to train while fighting- it also means that you are probably not in any danger assuming you picked a sufficiently pathetic type of animal.

Warnings- Make sure that you have your {{k|c}}ombat preference set to Close Combat, otherwise you may counterstrike and kill the zombie. This way, you will wrestle it during a counterstrike instead of doing something that may actually hurt it such as counterstriking with your weapon.

It is probably also preferable to start with a modicum of skill in Armor and Shield using to make sure you don't accidentally get instakilled or crippled and are good at blocking with your shield to gain XP fast. You'll also want to have non-crappy armor and a good shield or two (dual wielding shields may increase your ability to block) to maximize your ability to block and to make sure you are taking as little as possible damage, if any at all, during training.

=== Exploration ===

== Basic exploration tips ==
When traveling it’s a good idea to avoid evil areas until you’re reasonably powerful, as they tend to contain stronger enemies. Also avoid caves for this same reason, you never know when a dragon is lurking in the shadows. Remember that only human towns have shops, so don’t die of hunger wandering the dwarves mountain homes looking for that allusive Applebees. Water can be had from rivers and stagnant pools, though fast traveling (shift + t) makes thirst and hunger go away. If you are exploring caves, make sure to have some water and food with you, as some can be quite deep.

== Fortress exploration tips. ==
If you’ve abandoned a fortress in the world and you’re now adventuring, you can find that same fortress on the map. Ask townsfolk about the surroundings and eventually they’ll mention the fortress and its direction. From there you need only to follow the directions till the fortress shows up on your map.
The perils of fortress exploration
If your fortress was abandoned or destroyed their’s more than likely a reason why. Be it magma overflows, flooding, goblin sieges or perhaps digging a little too deep there are likely to be remnants of your downfall somewhere in the remains. Wild beasts and sentient invaders alike will more than likely be slugging it out in your once grand halls. Beyond this there is the danger of forgetting what lever does what and accidentally flooding the room with lava or collapsing the entrance.
= The advantages of Fortress exploration =
Depending on how advanced your fortress was it may contain extremely rare, powerful or valuables items. Raiding fortresses is the only way to get adamantine items and wafers, as well as the only way to get artifact weapons. Beyond this, you can read the engravings on the walls in order to fill your legends list.

= Preparation =
Whatever destroyed your fortress is what is going to be squatting in it now. If a goblin siege took you down, then prepare to fight some gobbies. If the horrors of the deep raped your little dwarven ass then prepare to fight those. If they drowned then find some waterwings etc. Make sure you’re fully stocked on arrows (if you use them) as well as water and food. Leaving anything you don’t need back in the tavern in town is a good idea too, as it lets you carry more loot.

= Plumbing the Deep =

While wandering the halls of your old fortress its best to secure each floor one by one, to avoid being ambushed. Explore one entire floor then move on to the next. This isn’t a requirement but it can help in finding the best loot as well as insuring against surprise arrow buttsex. If you start to get overburdened with all the loot climb to a secure floor and dump it in a pile. You can come back for it after you’ve finished exploring. Also note that, while traps no longer work, their components (giants blades, spiked balls etc) remain just as lethal in your hands. Also note that you can pick up and throw ballista bolts.

= What to do with all your newly acquired wealth =

Not much I’m afraid. While masterwork adamantine weapons are very useful and the raw chunks of adamantine are extremely valuable there’s nothing to really buy with them. The adamantine weapons you find are the strongest in the game and shops will never sell anything above iron so once you’ve got the weapons there’s pretty much nothing more you need. This will most likely be fixed in up coming versions (perhaps paying a blacksmith to make you weapons).

=== Summary ===
*Avoid flying arrows
*Throw rocks/statues/socks/bugs/sand/coins/arms/heads/swords/arrows/kitchen sinks at enemies that still haven't reached you
*Train your stats before taking on your first quest-monster

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Adventurer mode]]

40d Talk:Trading

2009-08-19T20:43:00Z

Arkenstone: /* Trade Depot Color */

{{Archive|
# The [[Talk:Trading/Talk Caravan|talk page]] from Caravan, which wasn't merged properly at the time.
# The [[Talk:Trading/archive1|first archive]] of Talk:Trading.
}}

== Culling on mandates ==

what's that? in the trade screen? me no be native speaker...--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 21:56, 20 February 2008 (EST)
:I think it means that it will hide things that are not allowed to be traded: "Mayor has put bans on certain exports". But I don't know if it hides an entire bin if one item in it is banned. [[User:Hex Decimal|Hex Decimal]] 14:29, 27 February 2008 (EST)
::I am quite sure that "culling on mandates: on" hides all bins containing items which have active Noble Export Bans. [[User:Samyotix|Samyotix]] 09:16, 13 November 2008 (EST)
:::I made a "trading color cues" subsection. This should cover relevant info about mandates and other things. --[[User:Shurikane|Shurikane]] 22:07, 29 December 2008 (EST)

== Trading flowchart ==
{{:Trading/Flowchart}}
Given a number of questions on the forums, it may be a good idea to put together a flowchart of the steps involved in trading. I will draft something up here (at least partially so I can safely screw up my first attempt on this wiki)

Tasks are sequential top-to-bottom, but can be done in parallel left-to-right
{|cellpadding="2" border="1" width=400|
|-
| colspan=2 rowspan=2| Make or obtain goods to trade || Build Depot ({{K|b}} - {{K|D}})
|-
| Ensure Depot is accessible ({{K|D}})
Check green area reaches edge of map
|-
| colspan=3 | Wait until a caravan arrives on the map
"A--- caravan from --- has arrived."
|-
| Set goods to be traded ({{K|q}} - {{K|g}}) || Request a trader ({{K|q}} - {{K|r}}) || Wait for caravan to reach the depot
"Merchants have arrived and are unloading their goods"
|-
| Wait for goods to be hauled || Wait for the trader to finish their other tasks and go to the depot || Wait for the rest of the caravan to reach the depot and be unloaded
|-
| colspan=3 | Begin actual trading ({{K|q}} - {{K|t}})
|}

Hmm. Is there a better way to show this? It may not help much as is... [[User:Kaypy|Kaypy]]
:Ask and ye shall receive (see right, editable at [[Trading/Flowchart]]). --[[User:Juckto|juckto]] 08:46, 6 May 2008 (EDT)
'''Re: Adeptable's changes''' I don't think the third branch is neccesary. For one, it makes it seem too wide, and secondary it implies that turning off the trader's labours ''all the time'' means that trading will happen faster - almost as if it will make merchants arrive more often. --[[User:Juckto|juckto]] 23:36, 2 August 2008 (EDT)
:I'd add retrieving empty bins to the bottom so that you don't end up with empty bins sitting at the depot. When stockpiles are crowded you'll need them to deal with the sudden influx of goods. (Never give away bins!) I bow to your wiki-fu, I simply could not edit your flowchart... --[[User:Corona688|Corona688]] 14:15, 3 December 2008 (EST)
::Yeah, it's a bit tricky I guess. It's all in the colspan :p. But, ahhh, how do you retreive them? I thought dwarves would automatically fetch empty bins from the depot if they needed them, just like fetching them from any other location. --[[User:Juckto|juckto]] 18:31, 3 December 2008 (EST)
:::Ack, somehow didn't see this. Empty bins will still show up as Trading in the bring goods to depot menu, unmark them and your dwarves will haul them back to where they're needed. --[[User:Corona688|Corona688]] 02:13, 7 January 2009 (EST)
::::Surely the bins' "Trading" status disappears after the Trader leaves? I mean, I've never noticed them as still being marked for "Trading" when the next caravan arrives next season. --[[User:Juckto|juckto]] 22:08, 23 January 2009 (EST)

 

== How many wagons? ==

I don't think I've ever seen more than 8 wagons in a given caravan. Is that the limit? Has anyone ever seen more than 8?--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 03:01, 9 November 2008 (EST)

== Mass selection of goods to be moved ==

Question: Is there a way to designate multiple goods in one selection to be brought to the depot?

I'm getting really tired of indivually selecting goods to be moved to the depot when I have massive amounts of crafts, food, etc. So is anyone familiar with ways to select multiple goods at once? Maybe a "start" and "end" tags (for lack of a better name) and every good caught inbetween is designated to be moved to the depot? -- [[User:Dakira|Dakira]] 14:47 10 November 2008 (PST)

:Nope. About the best you can do is use the select (search) menu to get all the ones of the type you want, then enter-down-enter-down. You can flag about 200 a minute this way, though.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 19:17, 10 November 2008 (EST)

::That's what I was doing previously. Are there any plans for a "mass selector" to be introduced? -- [[User:Dakira|Dakira]] 16:50 10 November 2008 (PST)

:::Not that I know of. Make a feature request on the [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php forums].--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 20:05, 10 November 2008 (EST)

::::AFAIK, there is no good way to do this from the trade screen, which is why it's important to set up custom stockpiles and have plenty of bins. Man, I really wish you could make bins out of stone.
:::::Auto Hotkey thingy. Heard it works wonders. Never tried it though.--[[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 15:19, 10 April 2009 (UTC)

== Merchant moods ==

My fortress hadn't been doing too well, but I didn't know it was so bad it could affect merchants... and their pack animals. As the last merchant was about to leave the map, he suddenly went berserk and was cut down by his bodyguard, who then fled the scene. Shortly thereafter, I recieved a message that the donkey had been stricken by melacholy. Has anyone else had this happen?

:They usually eventually go nuts if they can't leave for some reason. Never heard of something like what you're describing.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 03:24, 12 November 2008 (EST)

== No more dwarven caravan ==

So. The Dwarven caravan has not come in the past two years. I think, though I am not sure, that this corresponds with when I met the requirements for the Incoming King, though he has not yet seen fit to arrive. I believe I also capped the population sometime in there, but I think it was after the first year of no caravan. I don't recall in any way molesting previous caravans. I needs me some dolomite and steel bars, anyone know what's going on here? --[[User:Zombiejustice|Zombiejustice]] 02:10, 13 November 2008 (EST)

:So. I upper the population cap to encourage some immigration, and after a few seasons, the King showed up with his retinue and the Hammerer, who had apparently died at some point. I re-capped the population, and the caravan came next autumn. Was it the incoming king or the dead hammerer? Did the population cap interfere with the king's arrival? The mystery remains. --[[User:Zombiejustice|Zombiejustice]] 14:59, 2 December 2008 (EST)

::I'm on year 13 of my most recent fortress and the Dwarven caravan declined to show up this year, after 12 years of no problem. I still don't meet the requirements for the Incoming King. In a previous game I did meet those requirements, and that did not interfere with the caravan (though the liason stopped letting me place orders once the king arrived). Anyway, I don't think my current fort has anything in common with what you've described, other than a mysteriously missing caravan after not damaging previous ones. --[[User:Sev|Sev]] 00:52, 7 January 2009 (EST)
:::It appears my problem was caused by a brief goblin siege that occurred when the caravan was supposed to be showing up. --[[User:Sev|Sev]] 16:48, 26 January 2009 (EST)

== A query from the deleted page Talk:Stealing ==

I've read many times that the traders count their total losses/profits when they leave the edge of the map, so as to make stealing of any sort impossible (to get away with, anyhow). Does this include what the guards are carrying (if they get killed or even just shoot off some bolts)? Or is the "total profit" concept true at all? --[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 17:07, 27 November 2008 (EST)

:I'm pretty sure that the total profit concept is how it works. The value of everything the traders enter with is subtracted from the value of everything the traders leave with to calculate profit. There's probably something in there to account for the death of (a) trader(s). --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 21:42, 28 November 2008 (EST)

::is this still true? i was unwittingly stealing everything off the merchants via the stocks screen. i dont have any steel yet, as i've not found any flux or iron ore. but every now and again, i noticed i had a bunch of steel/iron weapons/bolts/armo(u)r, so designated it all for melting, etc, etc.. eventually, i chose to 'dump' everything to see where they were getting it, and they were stripping the merchants of all their goods/clothes/everything metal xD will they come and siege me anytime soon? my army's not ready yet! i do give good profit margins (20%+), but i'm sure the stuff i nick is much more valuable :/ --[[User:DJ Devil|DJ Devil]]

:::I've noticed that starving dwarves appear to be happy to steal food from merchants. I'm running 0.28.181.40d, and, being new to this, almost experienced [[fun]] due to lack of food. The dwarven caravan arrived in the nick of time, and rather to my surprise once they got close a clump of dwarves started hobbling their way over to the caravan. Once they got to it they started following it back to the depot (at full speed, not sure why), and then made off with a plump helmet each once the merchants started unpacking. Obviously food is rather less valuable than steel, but theoretically this too could tip the merchants into loss if you didn't buy much, assuming that profit/loss accounting is done this way. --[[User:Jenesis|Jenesis]] 19:01, 17 April 2009 (UTC)

== Wagon movement ==

I'm pretty sure that wagons cannot move diagonally. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 20:08, 11 December 2008 (EST)

They can, it just requires 7 tiles instead of 3 --[[User:Nightwind|Nightwind]] 04:08, 1 May 2009 (UTC)

== Arrival dates ==

Out of curiosity, has anybody given a closer look at the exact arrival dates of trade caravans? Do they always arrive at a fixed time, or does it hover inside a certain period during the month or season? --[[User:Shurikane|Shurikane]] 22:11, 29 December 2008 (EST)

:I've kept track over about 5 years. The Dwarf caravans seem to arrive around the 15th or 16th of Limestone and leave about the same time in Sandstone. The Human caravans seem to arrive around the 12th to 14th of Hematite and leave in Malachite. I don't have any data yet for the Elves. Once I get some more data points, I'll edit the wiki to add this info. --[[User:Mithra|Mithra]] 17:11, 17 April 2009 (UTC)

:: Here I've got elves arriving the 11th of Granite. [[User:Timst|Timst]] 09:14, 3 May 2009 (UTC)

::16th of hematite for humans here. 40d. Elves 11th too --[[User:Höhlenschreck|Höhlenschreck]] 10:53, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

::They're supposed to leave one month to the day after they arrive - that's the same day number, next month. For me, I've seen dwarf caravans arrive as early as the 10th, and as late as the 17th (but usually toward the first part of that, 10-12th). (Usually right after the first dogs whelp, but that's from the Growers Almanac.)--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 11:24, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

==Wagons and magma==
A dwarven trade caravan passing over a magma channel on its way to my trade depot recently caught fire. Naturally, this caused lots of [[fun]], but I'm a bit perplexed by it. There was nothing flammable on the bridge - in fact, the magma beneath was 1/7 deep at best - but it looks like the wagons just spontaneously combusted as they passed over the stream. Can anyone confirm that it was the magma that caused this, or were the children just playing with matches again? [[User:Aosher|Aosher]] 08:07, 14 January 2009 (EST)

== Elven Caravan Wood Logs ==
I noticed there was a "verify" next to "carries more wood the less trees you cut down" under the Elven Caravans and am not sure if it is right or not. Can anyone confirm this? I have observed the stock of wood brought by the elves in two games as increasing significantly with time. In one of the games wood was scarce, in the other wood was plentiful but to dangerous to cut down and in both I would consistently buy out all of the wood logs from every caravan. So I had theorized the increase in the number of logs brought was related to demand conveyed by buying out the stock repeatedly for years. However, not cutting down trees and buying out all the wood logs would tend to go hand in hand. Also, to really see a significant increase in a specific item I would need to buy out all the wood stock from a caravan for close several years. It is possible that both the demand and level of "production" of wood determine how much is brought. If either is true for wood, then it might be true for other items that Elves bring. Also, did I format this thing right? --[[User:Pencilinhand|PencilinHand]] 8:47, 23 January 2009 (EST)
:In my experience it's something more like - the more you have in stock, the less they bring. I was buying out all logs from them, and they brought ~120 logsevery year, and I chopped a lot of trees, but used them fast. Then I built some wooden machinery (axles, windmills), my stocks always showed about 100 logs in them after that, and elves began to bring only about 5 logs...--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 04:48, 23 January 2009 (EST)

::I did a series of experiments over a period of 3 years in my current fort and can confirm that Dorten is right and my previously stated theories are wrong. A forts stockpile of wood appears to be the biggest factor in determining how much wood is brought by the elven caravans. When I had a stockpile of 51 wood logs the elves brought no wood, when I had a stockpile of 0 wood logs they brought 43 wood logs, similar results were observed regardless of if I was cutting down trees during the year(though I did not test any clear cuts). The other caravans may have brought more wood as well, but further testing is needed before I am confident in that statement, as it may have been caused by offerings/gifts. --[[User:PencilinHand|PencilinHand]] 17:10, 25 January 2009 (EST)

==Trade Depot Color==
I know this doesn't have anything to do with trading, but it is interesting. Since Trade Depots are made out of 3 stones (or logs etc etc), if you combine stones of various colors, what do you get? I tried combining Orthoclase (yellow), Kimberlite (blue) and Olivine (green), and I got a green depot. Then I tried Gabbro (black) and 2 Orthoclase, and the depot was yellow. Kimberlite, Petrified Wood (red) and Olivine, the depot was green. Does anyone know how the color is selected?

:As far as I understand is the last stone for the color (or was it the first one?) --[[User:NobbZ|NobbZ]] 10:50, 23 February 2009 (EST)
::I'll have to fire up the game again when I get home, but I could have sworn that I've occasionally wound up with two-tone depots when I've used different stones. The main part was one color while the corners were another. But maybe I'm just imagining things. -[[User:Fuzzy|Fuzzy]] 09:49, 5 March 2009 (EST)
:::I just built a trade depot out of 3 Orthoclase (yellow) and it turned out where about half of it was yellow and half was white. Not like a two tone either, just blotches of yellow and blotches of white... [[User:Shardok|Shardok]] 04:11, 7 August 2009 (UTC)
::::Sounds like that might be a screen (or eye) problem. [[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 16:43, 19 August 2009

== stealing animals ==

One of the objects I happened to cheat the game of was a nickel cage with a dog in it. on the units page, the dog was still shown to belong to the traders. Is there any way to change this? (or at least any [http://www.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Fun fun] to be had from this?)

: What happens when you [[kennel|train]] it into a war dog? or, for that matter, does the game recognize it as an animal that can be [[kennel|tamed]]? --[[User:FJH|FJH]] 15:15, 25 March 2009 (EST)

==Buggy behavior with sieges==

In my current game the dwarven caravan arrived, followed immediately by a goblin siege. I crushed the siege but a couple caravan guards and a pack animal were killed. A handful of merchants, guards and animals got stuck at the edge of the map, and I never got to trade, even though all the wagons made it safely into the depot. I was however able to make the usual arrangements with the liason. Then I got the message that the caravan was leaving but they didn't actually go. Has anyone else experienced anything like this? Any way to fix it? --[[User:FunkyWaltDogg|FunkyWaltDogg]] 23:43, 29 March 2009 (UTC)

:In case something like this happens to anyone else, I found that digging out the area under the stuck merchants and collapsing it fixed the problem. The survivors started moving off the map and the wagons immediately pulled out of the depot. --[[User:FunkyWaltDogg|FunkyWaltDogg]] 05:20, 31 March 2009 (UTC)

== Limited Caravan Accessiblity ==

Contrary to the comments in the section on wagons, I do not believe you can force a caravan to enter the map at a specific point. Running 0.28.181.40d, I build a wall so that there is only one entrance to the map that is accessible to the depot. Humans arrived from another point of the map, and I got the message "Their wagons have bypassed your inaccessible site." I do see 'Depot accessible' on D. --[[User:Sfogarty|Sfogarty]] 05:49, 10 April 2009 (UTC)
:As for my experience, game first chooses the side of the map for traders, and then checks if wagons can reach depot. I had to chop trees yearly to keep fortress accessible before I've build a road. However, it can be not side but embarking tile that is chosen before accessibility check, but I haven't done any experiments to validate if it is the case. --[[User:Denspb|Denspb]] 10:19, 10 April 2009 (UTC)

== lazy dwarves ==

I just had a Human Caravan.

None of my dwarves did anything. Not a single mug or gem or meal was moved to the depot. I had to disable my broker's labours- ALL of his labours- to get him to speak with the diplomat following him about like a lost puppy.

Now, I see a 'priority' setting function in the Manager. Would this be practical or even usable to set Depot requests high?

== Attacked caravan slowed down - bug? ==

All right, I was in my third or so year. Autumn came and the dwarven caravan showed up - along with a Goblin ambush. Naturally the two fought in front of my fortress (with some strategic ranged support from my marksdwarves). Of the three wagons, one was destroyed (phat lewt!). Thing is, once the Goblins were taken out of the pricture one of the wagons moved *very* slowly - slow enough, in fact, that it didn't even get into the trading depot before I got the message that the caravan was going to leave soon. The wagon froze at the edge of the depot, two steps shy of getting into position, and then they both just sat there - I never even got the option to trade with them :-/ Has anyone else encountered a similar issue or did my game just have a bout of cranial flatulence?

: I have seen my caravan ambushed by goblins (killing the ambush) and then retreat... No trade this season. I guess this kind of behaviour should go in the main page [[User:MathFox|MathFox]] 17:43, 25 April 2009 (UTC)

== requested items ==

Any time I request specific items... the next caravan turns up with exactly 1 of each item and nothing else.

So I get caravans turning up with a total of say 6 items.

Any suggestions?[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]]
:Not sure. Maybe it depends on the actual availability of said items? In one game where I played in a pretty barren area and I asked my dwarven traders to bring lots of wood and they brought like 60 something of it the next season. When asking for meat, they bring plenty of it as well. What are you trying to request though? I requested some flux stone once and only got 6 flux stone rocks.--[[User:Smjjames|Smjjames]] 12:35, 29 May 2009 (UTC)
::example: various types of leather - I got 1 of some of the types.
::I think maybe I didn't send out enough value last time and I may have just made the same mistake. I'm trying too hard to get "value".[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 06:32, 30 May 2009 (UTC)
:::I also suspect it has to do with the avialability at the mountainhome - i get huge loads of requested wood, meat and specific types of leather, but bit coal, lignite, pig iron, steel bars and charcoal always only come in small amounts like, 6, though still more than when i do not request them (zero :( ) --[[User:Höhlenschreck|Höhlenschreck]] 20:20, 19 June 2009 (UTC)

== Merchant turned friendly ==
Bug or feature? A macedwarf that came with the caravan lagged a bit behind when leaving and stopped 2 tiles from the border. When i checked with 'u' he had turned friendly. Now he's standing there guarding.. --[[User:Höhlenschreck|Höhlenschreck]] 20:16, 19 June 2009 (UTC)

== Forbidden Items? ==

I've never had green glass items refused by Elves, on my current or any other map. My main export to everyone is green glass goblets on any map that supports cheap glass. I don't need wood for them but then, I didn't think the trading system(or the elves, for that matter) was sophisticated enough to tell. --[[User:Corona688|Corona688]] 19:21, 30 June 2009 (UTC)

== Error ==
I just had my first time ever true crash of DF - right on arrival of human caravan i got a message smth like "fatal error: nemesis failed to load unit". What does this mean and how do i find out if this is a known bug and where do i report it if not? --[[User:Confused|Confused]] 12:27, 3 August 2009 (UTC)
:Okay, google was my friend. For some odd reason all the files accompanying world.sav were gone, that causes this error. --[[User:Confused|Confused]] 16:09, 3 August 2009 (UTC)
::C - you're on the forums - you haven't ever heard of this? See [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=34936.0| Nemesis Errour]--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 18:51, 3 August 2009 (UTC)

== Self-Deconstructing Wagon? ==

I had a human caravan enter my map, and right where they entered was a group of bonobos. I was accustomed to the caravans plowing right through animals with no consequences, but this time, the wagon exploded as it touched the bonobo. The wagon was nowhere to be seen afterward, just all the trade goods it was carrying (in addition to one kapok log, which I suspect the wagon was built from). The rest of the caravan promptly ran away. The only thing I had built there was a rock block road. Has anyone else had anything like this happen, and if so, under what circumstances? --[[User:King of the Internet|King of the Internet]] 00:35, 11 August 2009 (UTC)

:That happens when a wagon is killed, all of the goods fly out, the Bonobo probably attacked it, and the rest of the traders always run away if a caravan is destroyed.--[[User:CrazyMcfobo|CrazyMcfobo]] 01:42, 11 August 2009 (UTC)

:I had this happen to me too. A caravan arrive just as a bunch of Orcs did. I wasn't watching, but they must have toasted one wagon and the caravan fled off the map. It was frustrating for two reasons. First, being on the very edge of the map, the clean up was terrible, and second, all the items dropped were marked as stolen.[[User:Kwieland|Kwieland]] 15:54, 11 August 2009 (UTC)

:So should it be noted on the page that normally-passive animals can attack the caravan, sending everyone back home? --[[User:King of the Internet|King of the Internet]] 21:22, 15 August 2009 (UTC)

User talk:Arkenstone

2009-08-19T01:49:02Z

Arkenstone: /* Freeing of kidnapped slaves */

== Freeing of kidnapped slaves ==

Where exactly did you get your information on this? As 40d14 has already been released, and I've seen no mention of this new feature being in 40d14, the 40d# versions generally only add better usability of the game, such as advanced graphic choices, easy ability to zoom the game window, and resizing of the game window, etc. If you could give the link to where you found this information... [[User:Shardok|Shardok]] 20:51, 18 August 2009 (UTC)
:There's a link from the Bay12Games site: [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=40349.0]; I was able to download the newest version of DF there. I've been playing in adventure mode, and infiltrated a goblin fortress. I talked with (child) prisoners there, and JOIN gives the response: "Yes, please take me away from here!". I don't know what to do with them now; there's almost a dozen following me and there keeping other adventurers away. At least they're good distractions.... --Arkenstone 17:10 18 August 2009
::That's probably been in all 40d versions then, as you have yet to show me the place where it mentions that is new to d14. I've been using the 40d#s for some time and keeping up to date with them, and as I said, they're mainly graphical improvements to make the game run faster/better.– [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:shardok|shardok]]
:::Arken - that link you included quite clearly lists the total improvements as "- '''Lots of bugfixes and performance improvements'''" - i.e. ''zero'' changes to game play. Not sure where you're getting your changes from. A glance at the [[version]] page will show that 40d and 40d14 and 40d999 are all the same game engine. (I think it was only recently, when Toady opened the code to try to let others make it run faster that we got those final numbers.) So, no - the mechanics of 40d14 are ''identical'' to all other 40d's. So, '''Arken''' - you should go back and clean up the [[children]] page, possibly just w/ an "undo". --[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 23:04, 18 August 2009 (UTC)
::::Done, but I think that the issue still needs more investigation. --Arkenstone 21:48 18 August 2009 (EST)

40d:Children

2009-08-19T01:44:46Z

Arkenstone: Undo revision 41282899 by Arkenstone (Talk)

__NOTOC__
[[Dwarves]] are considered '''children''' for their first twelve years. They learn how to become a [[dwarf]] through living in and participating in dwarven society with no formal schools, apprenticeships or other formal learning; even parenting seems quite minimal.

In fortress mode, some migrant dwarves are married and may bring children. Children who immigrate to your fortress might be any age from 2 to 12, and there is no way to determine the age of a child.

"Resident" dwarves may also give birth to children. This can be stopped or reduced by editing the init file. Dwarves even can have miscarriages, which causes an unhappy thought for the mother but not for the father.

==Babies==

When children are born, they are looked after by their parents, who will continue working, leaving the baby in the [[workshop]] if they go to get materials. It is thought that babies sharing a tile with their parents always lie down, not the parent. Babies do not have to be born in [[bed]]s, but are born wherever the mother happens to be; the birth will interrupt the mother's current action. If the mother is sleeping, however, the birth may not wake her.{{verify}} Still the game may report the message "...cancels sleep: seking infant."

If the mother dies the baby will almost always head to the nearest ledge and throw itself off of it, they will continue to do this until they either die or they grow to be a child. Orphans are never adopted by other dwarves.

==Labor==
Children may not be assigned any labors, but perform some activities without any intervention:

* socialising, through arranging [[party|parties]] in [[meeting hall]]s;
* [[harvest|harvesting]] [[crops]], if the 'All dwarves harvest' order is on;
* removing [[construction]]s (such as [[wall]]s, [[floor]]s, [[ramp]]s);
* pulling [[lever]]s;
* filling designated ponds;
* [[hauling]] items to the [[trade depot]];
* eating, drinking, and sleeping as necessary.

Children may not be assigned to the [[noble|nobility]], although babies seem to be able to.

==Diet==
Children seem to eat and drink with similar preferences to adult dwarves, including a preference for [[alcohol]] over plain [[water]].

==Kidnapping==
Children are also the target of [[goblin|goblin snatchers]], who will sneak into your fortress and try to kidnap young dwarves by stuffing one in a sack and hightailing it out of there. Like stolen objects, children who are removed from the map are lost forever, for now. [[Toady]] has hinted that slaves can be freed in future version.

==Moods==
[[Strange mood]]s affect children in the same way as adults. [[Experience]] gained through a strange mood will lead to the dwarf having legendary skill in either [[woodcrafting]], [[bone carving]] or [[stonecrafting]], depending on the artifact made.

==Adulthood==
At the age of twelve, children become adult [[dwarf|dwarves]]. While most then become unskilled peasants, those who have successfully completed a strange mood other than possession will become legendary [[craftsdwarf|Craftsdwarves]]; those who help in harvesting plants throughout childhood may have built up sufficient experience points in the [[grower]] skill to become [[Planter]]s, although it will list them as peasants until they skill up.

==Dwarven parenthood==

As an oversight in programming, children's parents can become so preoccupied with finding their children that they can die of thirst. This is aimed to be fixed at a later update.

==Military Children==

Although possibly not a bug, children with military mothers will be carried joyfully into battle and usually slaughtered wholesale. Deactivating the mother's military commission may be the best idea to keep the children alive and the parents from throwing [[tantrum]]s when a stray [[bolt]] hits the child. However, If the dwarven parent in question can be kept happy, Dwarven babies make ''excellent'' combat armour.
''
[[Category:Dwarves]]

40d Talk:Ore

2009-08-18T21:41:38Z

Arkenstone: /* What to do with low value ores/metals? */

==Nomenclature==
Should nuggets be labelled as such in the list? Before they are mined they are referred to as 'Native <metalname>', and are only labelled as nuggets once mined. Perhaps the table should be changed to indicate this. --[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 09:14, 20 January 2008 (EST)
:Before they are mined, they can't be smelted. It doesn't really matter which approach is used, as long as it is consistent; this article consistently refers to the post-mining state. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 14:13, 20 January 2008 (EST)

Should we take the Chromite out of the 'Found In' section for Platinum? Chromite is found in Olivine, and Platinum is already found in Olivine.--[[User:CrushU|CrushU]] 21:58, 14 March 2008 (EDT)

==Smelting of gold/silver==
Separate query - anyone know why Toady One requires native gold/silver to be smelted? You don't have to smelt rock to get the gold or silver out, it is gold or silver and you can either melt it for casting or work with it directly. (Historically most gold or silver mined has been melted down so it could be cast into bars for ease of transportation, but its still perfectly plausible to work with it in its raw state - rarely have the metalsmiths/jewelers been so close to the mining operations as in this game). I believe this is also true of native copper (hence why copper weapons/tools vastly predate iron equivalents). Smelting is the process of extracting metal from rock, not just melting it down. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 16:06, 21 April 2008 (EDT)
:The closest I can come to an answer to this one is, you can build near-equal value items (maintly furniture) from the "native metal rock" using your mason instead of your metalworkers.
==Gold Nuggets==
So, I'm currently evaluating some gem occurrence data, but noticed that there is no native gold veins that are wholely interior to gabbro (with quite a few gold veins discovered thus far). They may occur at the border of gabbro and other layers, and thus possibly extend into the gabbro, but nothing that could be said 'yep, that was generated in gabbro'. This leads me to believe gold does not occur in gabbro, and gold present in gabbro is only incidental due to a vein running over into it from another stone layer. 
(For reference, I've dug 1x140 square tunnels on 55 z-levels such that they are all directly above each other, for a total of 7700 tiles dug out and ~15500 tiles revealed beyond that. I've then mined out all gem clusters i've found, and am working on mining out all veins i've found. The tunnels cross a biome boundary, with transitions of andesite/basalt, diorite/marble, and diorite/gabbro. Gabbro is by far the most common rock tunneled through, followed by diorite, as the diorite/gabbro transition layers are the bulk of the layers) 
--[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 03:35, 29 April 2008 (EDT)
[MATGLOSS_STONE:GOLD]
[NAME:native gold][STONE_NAME:gold nuggets][COLOR:6:7:1][TILE:156]
[ENVIRONMENT:IGNEOUS_ALL:VEIN:100]
[ENVIRONMENT:ALLUVIAL:CLUSTER_SMALL:100]
[ITEM_SYMBOL:'*']
[METAL_ORE:GOLD:100]
[SOLID_DENSITY:19320]
[VALUE:30]
:Any problem?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 04:28, 29 April 2008 (EDT)
::[[Gold]] occurs in all igneous. [[Gabbro]] is igneous. Gold does not occur in gabbro: a contradiction.
::Based on gem occurrence patterns I hypothesize that each main layer (such as gabbro) is limited by the code to only a certain number of inclusions (such as gold), and after this inclusion list is full nothing else is created. For instance, maps will have a lot of one specific type of agate, rather than a little of each; or [[rock crystal]] is nowhere to be found in ten maps, and then appears in 15 small clusters in exactly one layer in one map. Any thoughts? [[User:Anydwarf|Anydwarf]] 23:11, 29 April 2008 (EDT)
:::I'm starting to see correlation in gems within rock masses, even across z-levels. There may be something to this. It would also explain why I have a boatload of gold veins, but none in Gabbro. OTOH, I'm starting to think there's more to the mineral/gem generation that just what rock type the layer is - I've been getting some gem types repeatedly associated with areas where the rock layer is 'broken', ie, rock layer type boundaries (say Diorite meeting Gabbro) or next to an ore vein, whereas I'm finding different gems totally internal to rock layer types. This actually makes sense geologically, but I want more data before I say anything definite. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 23:34, 29 April 2008 (EDT)

I have found the start of a vein of gold in gabbro, so I think that he was just getting some odd, extremely specific thing. I don't know. [[User:Destor|Destor]] 14:47, 26 September 2008 (EDT)

:You'd have to find a gold vein completely inside a gabbor layer to rule out the vein having just finished running into a different stone layer. I have malachite veins in my current game that terminate in andesite, mudstone, and even soil layers because they kept running past a stone boundary.
:Similar to my above query - I haven't seen a single gold vein in granite this game (and wasn't paying sufficient attention in previous games to notice). I have found plenty of Bismuthsite, Silver, and Casserite in granite though.
:It still strikes me as highly plausible that the ore/gem generation algorithm is more complex than just 'is it the right class of rock?'.
:--[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 13:04, 8 December 2008 (EST)

== Native Aluminum ==

According to the soil article Aluminum occurs in soil as well, but this table and the Native Aluminum article make no mention of it occuring in soil. Can someone verify if it occurs in soil? --[[User:Xonara|Xonara]] 03:07, 16 January 2009 (EST)

== Native Platinum ==

I've recently seen platinum clusters of about 20 to 30 in maps. Would this be classified as a size of its own? Although I have only seen it in one fort so far and i recently mined out a cluster of 4. Was this just a one time thing or is anybody else noticing this? --[[User:Jebraltix|Jebraltix]] 9:38, 16 Febuary 2009 (CST)
:I discovered a vein of native platinum once before, too. I thought platinum only occurred as small clusters, but apparently its matgloss says they can be discovered as veins in olivine and magnetite, too. --[[User:Sz|Sz]] 06:51, 17 February 2009 (EST)
::It most definitely veins in magnetite (and never forms small clusters there). I have never seen anything but small clusters in olivine. (I have a map with some 13 magnetite clusters thus far - most have had platinum veins). The strange thing about platinum veining in magnetite is the vein will extend to the edge of the magnetite, stop, and then pick up again a few tiles away and finish the vein. Not sure what causes this. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 00:59, 18 February 2009 (EST)
:::I once had a map where all the exposed stone was either magnetite, chalk, or native platinum/aluminum. Sadly though, it was one of the first fortresses I ever built, and I quit it without ever realizing the sheer value of my find. O bitter folly of youth! --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 17:35 18 August 2009

== ore -> blocks ==

Are blocks able to be refined at a smelter? this would reduce the number of hauling tasks taken to keep a furnace operator busy and create work to help level up a mason.[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 11:24, 12 July 2009 (UTC)

:Almost certain that they're not. I don't remember where I read it, so I can't spread some sauce on this one. I do know there is (used to be?) a mod that was used only for converting blocks back to ores. An easy risk-free check is trading for one at the next caravan, as the humans/dwarven wagons almost always have a block of an ore. -[[User:N9103|Edward]] 14:18, 12 July 2009 (UTC)
::Damn, my ore deposits are all the way across the screen from the volcano. Oh well looks like the miners get to dig a lava trench... see if '''this''' volcano recovers![[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 00:14, 13 July 2009 (UTC)

== What to do with low value ores/metals? ==
Iron goes into steel. Alu,platinum, gold, silver are all rare enough and worthwile to build wealth and high value furniture and please preferences, or just for a nice hoard. Some copper and tin goes into billon. Zinc and some copper go into brass. If you really need you can turn a little bit of nickel and zink into magma safe nickel silver.

But what to do with the endless amounts of, like, Galena, Garnierite and Cassiterite? Thers only so much furniture i can make and trading it away as craft just doesnt feel right.

:Train Metal Crafters with it! Bituminous coal only costs 3☼ to Import, (or ~6☼ at max priority) so you can afford to smelt every bar and make something with it and sell it to the caravans. --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 17:42 18 August 2009 (EST)

40d Talk:Ore

2009-08-18T21:34:42Z

Arkenstone: /* Native Platinum */

User talk:Arkenstone

2009-08-18T21:10:13Z

Arkenstone: /* Freeing of kidnapped slaves */

40d Talk:Children

2009-08-18T19:22:48Z

Arkenstone: /* Nudists */

Dwarves will get married? I thought only immigrants could be married, when the arive at the fort?

– [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:Doler 12|Doler 12]]

Dunno about that! but I did rewrite the article. Hope the formal wikipedia style isn't too far out of whack here, [[User talk:GarrieIrons|slap me]] if I need it.[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 06:19, 5 February 2008 (EST)

:Dwarves can get married at any point, if they like each other enough. Does anyone know if dwarves will ever not 'forgo any formal arrangements'? Someone better than me should write a marriage page. --[[User:Niaba|Niaba]] 12:27, 12 April 2008 (EDT)

::see [[Marriage]] [[User:Twiggie|Twiggie]] 13:16, 16 April 2008 (EDT)

== out of date ==

relationships and marriage has been added recently, so this ought to updated to reflect the new, less mysterious process.

== How many children again? ==
Hmmm 25 children and only 10 dwarves... Maybe unleashing that dragon was a bad idea.
:You think that's bad? 241 dwarves, 70 children. I'm making an entire village outside for all of them... when you hit the pop cap, they keep having babies (until 100 if the init.txt is unedited), but you get no actual labor from migrants. It's getting exceptionally annoying in here... 12 years in game, and only 2 children have graduated to peasants. --Gotthard 12:11, 26 October 2008 (EDT)

== kids and alcohol ==

gotta love em when they lift up the whole 56 weight barrel... and thats from as young at two as well ^_^ [[User:Twiggie|Twiggie]] 08:53, 18 April 2008 (EDT)
:The newborns in my fortress "need alcohol to get through the working day". Must come from their mum the Mayor being still on active duty and having one baby per year every year of the fortress so far. Kinda sucks that my most reliable means of "alcohol production" so far is trading in "narrow giant cave spider silk socks (600)" for sly grog!09:07, 29 June 2008 (EDT)
::Actually the quote from the (I guess toddler) is "She needs alcohol to get through the working day and has gone without a drink for far, far too long"![[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 09:09, 29 June 2008 (EDT)

==child abuse?==

my child has a broken upper leg... idk how it happened :( my guess is one of its parents hit it really hard, or one of them sat/laid on top of it in bed - that family often has all four of them in the same bed. [[User:Twiggie|Twiggie]] 08:48, 19 May 2008 (EDT)

<nowiki>:(</nowiki> nobody wanted to feed the kid, or bring it water, so it went melancholy within a year. [[User:Twiggie|Twiggie]] 10:15, 19 May 2008 (EDT)

== Noble children don't become nobles right? ==

I was amazed a noble gave birth. I want princesses and princes, even though they will have beards.--[[User:Seaneat|Seaneat]] 21:17, 2 July 2008 (EDT)
:I've not seen it personally, but the exact opposite is said to be the case. Due to a dwarf's value being set in an economy by how much work they do and their children's value supposedly being a function of both their parent's until they come of age, Noble children end up being paupers since their parents don't need to do any work/get stuff for free for merely being nobles. --[[User:Kyace|Kyace]] 07:05, 3 July 2008 (EDT)

== Happy to be free ==

I recently had a kidnapper make off with a baby (despite the only entrance to my fort being cage-trapped - NB. it is not safe for baby-carrying women to be Mechanics!), and the child in question currently has a single thought: "She is happy to be free.". Free from the oppressive shackles of dwarven society, I guess. Perhaps the goblins make more toys than I do! --[[User:Raumkraut|Raumkraut]] 15:22, 13 July 2008 (EDT)

: Maybe it's just a "joke" from Toady. Or maybe the baby manage to escape the goblin's lair, but it seems strange in the current version (38c).

:: I just had one kidnapped and was expecting the parents to get a negative thought. (didn't see one) And I also saw the happy to be free bit under the child. When i zoomed to it though it showed the spot where the kidnapping took place. Probably a bug.--[[User:Silver|Silver]] 15:41, 7 August 2008 (EDT)

:I actually believe this is a way to stabilize the child's mood so it doesn't abruptly throw a tantrum when kidnapped and break something. Happy to be free is an outstandingly powerful happy thought (+1000 where ecstatic is +50), usually used to give people a break from unhappy prisoners getting out of jail. By tacking on happy to be free, Toady is essentially locking in the child's mood so it behaves predictably helplessly when kidnapped. --[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 17:20, 30 October 2008 (EDT)

::I noticed the "happy to be free" thought in a baby that was actually freed after its kidnapper was taken down by dogs. (It happened automatically once the bag was dropped.) Maybe generating the happy thought before it gets out of the bag is just a bug.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 18:09, 30 October 2008 (EDT)

== Child production ==

Hmm, seems that idle dwarves gave birth to more baby than others. I've got a nervous system-injured dwarf that do nothing else that wander in the meeting hall, and she have 4 children. It should be related to the relationships, because this dwarf is competent in all the the relationship skills... anyone can confirm ? (sorry for my imperfect english) [[User:Timst|Timst]] 10:12, 14 July 2008 (EDT)
:I also have a nervous system-injured dwarf wounded from sparring who's beginning to have children. She's the only one so far with the injury or children. --[[User:FloodSpectre|FloodSpectre]] 17:28, 24 August 2008 (EDT)
:My duchess has had 6 children so far, and she sits around all day whining for more platinum items. My legendary siege builder had no children until she hit legendary (and now does nothing) and started to have kids. However, I have had kinds from my 2 miners (whi NEVER stop mining) but they seem to stick at one until it gets to child status, and then have another. --Gotthard 12:13, 26 October 2008 (EDT)

== Triplets... ==

Small fortress, 50 dwarves and suddenly "Tirist Dwarfeddwarves has given birth to triplets"... Of course it was military dwarfess... The article page says nothing about huge dwarven litters. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 11:19, 24 July 2008 (EDT)

== Unusual Family Structures ==

Playing in Adventure mode, I asked a child about his family. He told me about his grandmother, who moved to some city in some year, and later slew a wolf. Then the child added, "She is also my aunt." o.O --[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 16:04, 26 October 2008 (EDT)
* It makes sense, but only if you consider inbreeding. And it makes a great deal of sense if you consider everything else. --[[User:FJH|FJH]] 15:12, 15 July 2009 (UTC)

== Children strenght ? ==

Are children -not only dwarves but all creatures- weaker than the adults ? It seem logical, but I've never read anything about it. [[User:Timst|Timst]] 04:23, 30 October 2008 (EDT)

:The only way I can think to test it is to have your dwarves haul some heavy things (>2000Γ) to the depot and see if the children do it slower than the adults. My bet would be no, though if not, Toady's bound to fix it sooner or later.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 18:17, 30 October 2008 (EDT)

:: Well, by strenght, I also meant damage resistance and etc... eg ; is a puppy less resistant than a dog ? Is a young giant eagle less deadly than a full-grown one ? [[User:Timst|Timst]] 18:27, 30 October 2008 (EDT)

:::(jarred memory) Oh yes -- children are about 2/3s the size of adults (going by how much meat you get from butchering them), and size is a big factor in combat. So, yes, children are weaker.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 13:15, 2 November 2008 (EST)

:I don't think there is much difference, my chilren at 'superdwarvenly tough' seem to take as many iron bolts to die a their older relatives. I've had a couple of my children (of which I have 90+) fight off Goblins in hand-to-hand combat, but they won't engage unless they are caught. Frankly, overall children will end up BEING stronger, stat wise, due to talking all the time, compared with older folk who have jobs, but that is not inherent to children themselves. --Gotthard 22:57, 2 November 2008 (EST)

== "abandoned" baby ==

Can a baby die of starvation/thirst if the mother is injured and unable to retrieve them? [[User:Random832|Random832]] 17:02, 30 October 2008 (EDT)

:I don't believe babies receive food or drink at all (this leads to the "has not had a drink in far too long" message by the end of their infancy). It's possible that would change when the baby is not carried by the mother, but frankly, I'd be surprised.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 18:14, 30 October 2008 (EDT)

== No Profession? ==

One of my children finally grew up to be a real, manly, dwarf farmer. Except that, despite having proficient skill in growing, he is considered a peasant. [[User:Milskidasith|Milskidasith]] 14:13, 11 November 2008 (EST)

:Hm. I remember in older versions my harvesting children, upon reaching adulthood, became farmers. Does he have Proficient or higher [[broker skills]]? Once his farming skill exceeds them, his profession ought to change.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 14:37, 11 November 2008 (EST)

::His highest broker skill is competent intimidation. [[User:Milskidasith|Milskidasith]] 14:59, 11 November 2008 (EST)

:::Confirmation, I have a peasant former-child who has novice grower and has not become a farmer. He has higher social skills of course, but that never interfered with the promotion of regular peasants to other professions afaik. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 10:58, 4 December 2008 (EST)

:::Update: said peasant became a grower when his Siege Operating reached novice... despite them both being the same level... I don't get it... --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 12:33, 4 December 2008 (EST)

:If you use Dwarf Manager to set a fast-levelling labour on a child, like Pump Operating, you can actually end up with a Legendary Pump Operator "peasant" who still has the peasant cyan colour and even flashes appropriately. My theory is that the game recalculates the appropriate label for a dwarf each time they gain a level in any skill, just in case it's changed. Hence, getting any further skills of any sort will readjust them appropriately. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 04:27, 9 June 2009 (UTC)

== The bones of the young ==

How many bones do you get from a dwarven baby? This seems odd and I find no page for the "baby" dwarf here on the wiki so.. it's like this:

The baby and her mother were attacked by goblins. An arrow tore the babys hand clean off and then they killed the mother and the child. I always (f)orbid the dwarves from touching the corpses after they're buried since I suspect they will steal the bones and make bolts out of them. Now I noticed that for some reason in the baby grave there is 1 skull and 2 bones. Does the body give 1 bone and the hand 1? Or does the body give 2 and they never retrieved the hand?
Is this all a bug? [[User:Aspgren|Aspgren]] 03:48, 23 December 2008 (EDT)

:The current understanding is that young creatures have 2/3s the size (and therefore bones) of adults. Babies might be distinct from children, however -- 1/3 size? That would make dwarven babies size 2, 'cause adult dwarves are size 6.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 22:25, 22 December 2008 (EST)

::That makes sense. Thanks! - [[User:Aspgren|Aspgren]] 06:48, 23 December 2008 (EDT)

:As for forbidding the corpses, I don't believe this is necessary. Dwarves will only make bolts and totems and stuff out of "refuse" bones, whereas dwarves and pets are considered "graveyard" (or coffin) bones and will not be used. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 04:24, 9 June 2009 (UTC)

== Birthdays? ==

Is there any way to determine the birth date of a Dwarf, short of writing it down manually when a child is born? The information must be stored by the game, since infants do become children and then adults. I've been unable to find anything more specific that the relationship tags (''younger'' brother, ''oldest'' daughter, etc.), which are pretty vague.

And are children more likely to organize parties near their birthday? --[[User:Oddrune|Oddrune]] 15:30, 5 February 2009 (EST)

== Nudists ==

I took a look at the children in my fort and noticed that they are all '''NAKED'''. 
Perhaps it should be added to the article? The only things the children had in their inventory was mud, vomit and blood splatter. Which I guess means they hang around the barracks alot. --[[User:Aspgren|Aspgren]] 00:05, 8 February 2009 (CET)
:Actually, in the Middle Ages, children would often go naked; because clothes could cost more than a week's wages and children would just ruin them. --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 15:23 18 August 2009

== Can't change parent's jobs ==

When there's a dwarf you want to change a job on, but she's carrying a baby, you can't access her v->p menu.The baby's v->p menu takes precendence. Is this an oversight? [[User:Blargityblarg|Blargityblarg]] 09:24, 15 May 2009 (UTC)
:Press v again, this should switch to the mother instead of her baby. When there are multiple creatures layered on top of each other, pressing v should switch between them. Unless you are doing that and it is happening as you described. The Dwarfmanager utility can help you out here if you want to use it. --[[User:Smjjames|Smjjames]] 12:18, 15 May 2009 (UTC)

== What the heck, children can be assigned jobs? ==
I don't know whether this is a fluke or what, but after using Dwarf Manager to assign all dwarves the masonry task to quickly complete something and after I did that, I noticed that two of the kids were working in the masonry shop. If you don't believe me, look at the screenshot. No idea if this is a bug/exploit or what. I'm not planning on keeping the jobs there on the kids once that quick project is done. I checked again after that workshop task was done and they apparently will do a workshop task but not the construct wall/floor. It most likely has to do with the coding that allow them to use a workshop when in a mood.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/smjjames/Untitled-6.png[/IMG]

I don't know how to get images up here properly though.--[[User:Smjjames|Smjjames]] 23:34, 15 May 2009 (UTC)

:In my experience, children are basically just dwarves with their labour screen disabled and most of their labours disabled as well. So yes, you can make them do all kinds of things: Hauling, fishing, working in workshops, etc. Personally, I order them to do nothing but work the pumps until adulthood, so they'll be ready for speedy hauling duty by the time they grow up.

:Dwarf Manager is a memory hacking tool, and should be treated as such — i.e. while most of what it does is provide shortcuts to things you could do in-game, it's not going to prevent you from doing certain things that would indeed be considered cheating. You can set labours on pretty much anything friendly: Children, babies, nobles, heroes/champions (not that they'll do anything since you can't undraft them), etc. It simply doesn't discriminate between what you should and shouldn't be able to tweak. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 04:32, 9 June 2009 (UTC)

== babies can swim? ==
i had a babie fall into some water, (well, the parents swam off without it), it will be find, drown for 1 second, be winded for a second, and then be fine again... [[User:Corhen|Corhen]] 01:30, 12 June 2009 (UTC)

40d:Children

2009-08-18T17:51:19Z

Arkenstone: /* Kidnapping */

__NOTOC__
[[Dwarves]] are considered '''children''' for their first twelve years. They learn how to become a [[dwarf]] through living in and participating in dwarven society with no formal schools, apprenticeships or other formal learning; even parenting seems quite minimal.

In fortress mode, some migrant dwarves are married and may bring children. Children who immigrate to your fortress might be any age from 2 to 12, and there is no way to determine the age of a child.

"Resident" dwarves may also give birth to children. This can be stopped or reduced by editing the init file. Dwarves even can have miscarriages, which causes an unhappy thought for the mother but not for the father.

==Babies==

When children are born, they are looked after by their parents, who will continue working, leaving the baby in the [[workshop]] if they go to get materials. It is thought that babies sharing a tile with their parents always lie down, not the parent. Babies do not have to be born in [[bed]]s, but are born wherever the mother happens to be; the birth will interrupt the mother's current action. If the mother is sleeping, however, the birth may not wake her.{{verify}} Still the game may report the message "...cancels sleep: seking infant."

If the mother dies the baby will almost always head to the nearest ledge and throw itself off of it, they will continue to do this until they either die or they grow to be a child. Orphans are never adopted by other dwarves.

==Labor==
Children may not be assigned any labors, but perform some activities without any intervention:

* socialising, through arranging [[party|parties]] in [[meeting hall]]s;
* [[harvest|harvesting]] [[crops]], if the 'All dwarves harvest' order is on;
* removing [[construction]]s (such as [[wall]]s, [[floor]]s, [[ramp]]s);
* pulling [[lever]]s;
* filling designated ponds;
* [[hauling]] items to the [[trade depot]];
* eating, drinking, and sleeping as necessary.

Children may not be assigned to the [[noble|nobility]], although babies seem to be able to.

==Diet==
Children seem to eat and drink with similar preferences to adult dwarves, including a preference for [[alcohol]] over plain [[water]].

==Kidnapping==
Children are also the target of [[goblin|goblin snatchers]], who will sneak into your fortress and try to kidnap young dwarves by stuffing one in a sack and hightailing it out of there. Like stolen objects, children who are removed from the map are lost forever, for now. [[Toady]] has hinted that slaves can be freed in future version. (Confirmed for the upcoming release of df_28_181_40d14.)

==Moods==
[[Strange mood]]s affect children in the same way as adults. [[Experience]] gained through a strange mood will lead to the dwarf having legendary skill in either [[woodcrafting]], [[bone carving]] or [[stonecrafting]], depending on the artifact made.

==Adulthood==
At the age of twelve, children become adult [[dwarf|dwarves]]. While most then become unskilled peasants, those who have successfully completed a strange mood other than possession will become legendary [[craftsdwarf|Craftsdwarves]]; those who help in harvesting plants throughout childhood may have built up sufficient experience points in the [[grower]] skill to become [[Planter]]s, although it will list them as peasants until they skill up.

==Dwarven parenthood==

As an oversight in programming, children's parents can become so preoccupied with finding their children that they can die of thirst. This is aimed to be fixed at a later update.

==Military Children==

Although possibly not a bug, children with military mothers will be carried joyfully into battle and usually slaughtered wholesale. Deactivating the mother's military commission may be the best idea to keep the children alive and the parents from throwing [[tantrum]]s when a stray [[bolt]] hits the child. However, If the dwarven parent in question can be kept happy, Dwarven babies make ''excellent'' combat armour.
''
[[Category:Dwarves]]

40d Talk:Modding guide

2009-08-17T18:23:13Z

Arkenstone: /* .txt */

[re: Creating separate .txt file for new creatures]

This didn't work well for me. I added a new playable civ (Klackon) to the entity_default file like this page said, and the species (Klackon) in that new civ was located in a new .txt file. Dwarves still showed up, but never my civ. I kept reducing the number of allowable dwarf civs thinking they were just competing for selection, culminating in getting rid of them entirely, ending up in developing a world that had humans and elves only! Oops.

Finally, I added my Klackon creature to the end of the creature_standard file instead of only having them in the creature_klackon.txt file.. Voila! I now have dwarf civs and klackon civs in the same world and actually get a choice between them when I make a fort.

It's very possible that I just messed up something basic when I made the new .txt file to contain the creature definition, but I could still point out that making a new, separate .txt file certainly didn't make things simpler for me, so it's not such great advice for budding modders.

Everything else worked fine though, so thanks, still!
:Have to be sure to add the text files name ( "creature_klackon" without the parenthesis, or brackets) and the line [OBJECT:CREATURE] to tell the game its a creature file. --[[User:Darkone|Darkone]] 18:17, 2 May 2008 (EDT)

== Bad info? ==

So someone added a big notice at the top that suggests there's a fair bit of out-of-date text.. but no mention of what that may be, no links to forum posts, et cetera. Someone want to clue me in on just what, exactly, is no longer relevant? --[[User:Nunix|Nunix]] 15:14, 28 February 2008 (EST)
:I think it's safe to take off the version warning but the examples need to be tested. It would probably be easier to manage if this article was split into smaller, in depth, modding guides. --[[User:Hex Decimal|Hex Decimal]] 23:07, 28 February 2008 (EST)

I would love to see a little more descriptive way of handling the raw files as opposed to simply a slew of examples on things to mod. Perhaps I'm just not spending enough time "tinkering", but it seems that the current article is set up rather poorly. Is that just me? --[[User:Borgin|Borgin]]
[EDIT]
I didn't realize there were complete lists of tokens. Silly me; that sure makes things easier. 1:37, 15 May 2008 (CST)

== Arachnid Tutorial ==

<s>Minor nitpick here, but it apears he forgot to add :5FINGERS:</s> tested it and it works, added it to wiki. as one of its body tags to go with its hands. Also, as a nice additional tutorial, maybe add in this little bit of code to show people how to add joints? --[[User:Darkone|Darkone]] 18:39, 2 May 2008 (EDT)<pre>
[BODY:ARACHNID_JOINTS]
[BP:RUA_J:right shoulder][CON:RUA][JOINT][SMALL][INTERNAL][RIGHT]
[BP:LUA_J:left shoulder][CON:LUA][JOINT][SMALL][INTERNAL][LEFT]
[BP:RLA_J:right elbow][CON:RLA][JOINT][SMALL][INTERNAL][RIGHT]
[BP:LLA_J:left elbow][CON:LLA][JOINT][SMALL][INTERNAL][LEFT]
[BP:RH_J:right wrist][CON:RH][JOINT][SMALL][INTERNAL][RIGHT]
[BP:LH_J:left wrist][CON:LH][JOINT][SMALL][INTERNAL][LEFT]
</pre>

== Dwarven Flight ==

If I add the line [FLIER] to my dwarven civilisation would anything interesting happen? --[[User:AlexFili|AlexFili]] 05:30, 18 June 2008 (EDT)

:No, dwarves will just spam "Task cancelled: dangerous terrain". They will have problems doing anything. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 08:09, 18 June 2008 (EDT)

::Flight pathing is even broken for invaders. What a shame! Swimmers can have problems too, though not ''that'' bad. --[[User:Navian|Navian]] 16:40, 21 November 2008 (EST)

== Fireproof Trees? ==

Is there any means to create a wood material (and corrosponding trees to harvest for it) which will not burn, or at least won't ignite from contact with magma? --[[User:Rakankou|Rakankou]] 00:47, 25 July 2008 (EDT)
:I am no expert but, what if you added the [FIRE_IMMUNE] tag to trees. Do not know if that will work, or if thats even the right tag. [[User:Magikarcher|Magikarcher]] 02:12, 25 July 2008 (EDT)
::[FIREIMMUNE] doesn't seem to work for making a fire safe wood. I think it's a creature token, anyway, so it makes sense that it wouldn't work for materials. --[[User:Rakankou|Rakankou]] 12:27, 25 July 2008 (EDT)
::: It's a creature token so it won't work. However, taken from Adamantine's entry (it is magma-proof):
::::[SPEC_HEAT:7500]
::::[MELTING_POINT:25000]
::::[BOILING_POINT:50000]
:::Hopefully that helps. --[[User:Borgin|Borgin]] 20:11, 12 August 2008
IGNITE_POINT is a matgloss token. [[User:Random832|Random832]] 17:01, 21 November 2008 (EST)

== .txt ==

My word processer won't let me save .txts. Does that matter?
:Yes. A word processor program (like anything from Microsoft Office) will generate all sorts of gibberish in addition to your text. [[User:HeWhoIsPale|HeWhoIsPale]] 11:22, 5 August 2008 (EDT)
::Just use notepad, assuming you have it. --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]]

== Adventure mode? ==

Do I have to add the tag adventure tier to the dark elves to make them playable in adventure mode? [[User:Yaddy1|Yaddy1]] 16:13, 5 August 2008 (EDT)

Yup. --[[User:Navian|Navian]] 16:40, 21 November 2008 (EST)

== Modded creatures not showing? ==

I tried making my own races for a test. Spartans, copied from entity_info of dwarves and creature_Standard info from Humans and small bit from Titans.
Persians, Like goblins but weaker and stupider.
after running 4 different regions with different settings, only Goblins, Dwarves and Humans showed up. What am I doing wrong? There is not a single trace of them even existing at the legends screen.
I really want to kick persians with spartans instead of biting goblins with dwarves.
[[User:Skibiliano|Skibiliano]] 14:22, 27 August 2008 (EDT)

:The problem probably lies in the titan tags. In any case, backing up the original raws and just editing them would be easier to test. --[[User:Navian|Navian]] 16:40, 21 November 2008 (EST)

:Did you get the filenames and [OBJECT] tags at the top? Those are easy to miss. I'd say make them copies of dwarves and goblins, respectively - once worlds generate with them, tweak them to be like you want. Also, you can temporarily move entity_default.txt to another dir to make it easier to debug. [[User:Darekun|Darekun]] 11:39, 1 April 2009 (UTC)

== "Random" civ selection with more than one playable civ ==

In the main text on this page (and I swear in a fair few other places, but I can't find them for some reason), it notes that if you have the [CIV_CONTROLLABLE] token on more than one entity it will randomly select from the playable civs when you embark. Well, yes, it's random in the sense that it initially selects a random group for your fortress to be an offshoot of, but you can easily select the desired species of your fort inhabitants by manually picking the appropriate group from the embark screen, either using legends mode to work out which group is which species, or by checking the "nearby civilizations" section and seeing which species is at the top (it seems that your species will always be at the top of the list). I'm going to adjust the "random selection" note to say you can choose your civilization, but I'm not sure if a whole mini-tutorial on picking your civ really belongs in the modding guide, or whether it should go somewhere else. Comments? --[[User:Quil|Quil]] 12:10, 16 November 2008 (EST)

:Just the one line about how the race you'll be playing will be at the top of the 'neighbours' list wouldn't be that bad, wouldn't it? No tutorial required, anyway. Maybe we could divide the topic later, but I think this is an relevant as anything, considering how much depth can be added to the game this way. --[[User:Navian|Navian]] 18:55, 16 November 2008 (EST)

::Okay, added a paragraph on picking your species. I think I covered all the pertinent points fairly succinctly. As a random aside, while the species I added is quite hardy and long-lived, so they've never been wiped out, I'm not sure if the game will care if some of the playable species die out. While in the vanilla game with the default settings it's impossible to kill off the dwarves, since the game will reject it due to having no playable civs, with additional playable races it may just be possible to have your extra species (or the dwarves) all die out and be unplayable in an otherwise acceptable map.--[[User:Quil|Quil]] 09:44, 17 November 2008 (EST)

:::I confirmed that. My aquatic playable civ didn't appear on a map without their starting biome, and my single gender race was wiped out by humans on the next go, leaving only the other playable each time. --[[User:Navian|Navian]] 16:40, 21 November 2008 (EST)

== Rock Crystals ==

How would I go about modding the game to either allow me to import rough rock crystals or allowing me to make crystal glass from cut rock crystals?--[[User:Mjo625|Mjo625]] 07:37, 19 March 2009 (UTC)

Or add a reaction that will change rock crystals into rough rock crystals. I added

[REACTION:ROUGH ROCK CRYSTAL]
[NAME:Melt Rock Crystal]
[SMELTER]
[REAGENT:1:SMALLGEM:NO_SUBTYPE:STONE:ROCK_CRYSTAL]
[PRODUCT:100:1:ROUGH:NO_SUBTYPE:ROCK_CRYSTAL]
[FUEL]

to reaction_standard but it doesn't seem to be working. The dwarf takes the rough crystal and charcoal to the smelter, works for a while but doesn't produce anything.--[[User:Mjo625|Mjo625]] 10:22, 19 March 2009 (UTC)

:If they take the reagents and don't produce a product, that means there's an error in the [PRODUCT] tag. In this case, you're missing a term - ROCK_CRYSTAL is a matgloss with no material token. I'd guess the correct version would be [PRODUCT:100:1:ROUGH:NO_SUBTYPE:STONE:ROCK_CRYSTAL].
:It looks like imports are rather hardcoded, so no importing it; you could add a creature that drops it via [ITEMCORPSE], but smelter reactions are probably the way to go. [[User:Darekun|Darekun]] 11:35, 1 April 2009 (UTC)

== adding a programming emphasis ==

Hi, I am interested in modding and am a programmer by profession.
I think it would be nice to approach the modding guide the same way as any programming language guide.
It may be that not a lot of people who are programmers are coming to do Modding in DF but that doesn't mean they couldn't benefit greatly from some basic programming theory and knowledge. In fact, it was modding old-school rogue games for BBS systems that actually introduced me to real programming...
I hope any edits I make meet with your approval.
I also hope maybe we can start a plain-speech syntax guide for the mod files and a glossary of terms for all the hard-coded tags.
I must admit that at this stage, going through the default files, I am a bit overwhelmed with the variety and have trouble knowing which tags/flags/tokens correspond to a hard-coded concept and which ones are simply built from other tags.
The entity tags also have tokens whose importance I cannot yet determine.
At these times, I wish I just had a simple glossary to refer to!
So my request is that the wiki could have some sort of glossary/index for all these terms similar to the way creatures are organized.
For an example of a code dictionary, please see: http://www.adobe.com/support/flash/action_scripts/actionscript_dictionary/
(I know the terms are a bit esoteric for non-programmers, like bitwise operators appear at the top of the list... but the concept is simple--and df modding has no operators, only keywords)

If there's anything over at bay12 like this, please let me know. I looked but couldn't find anything. Consensus seemed to be that it belonged on this wiki.

Well, I will try to do this myself unless there are serious objections, but since I have a full-time job, I would love it if others were to participate!
--[[User:Jpwrunyan|Jpwrunyan]] 02:38, 27 March 2009 (UTC)

== Healing Mods? ==

Is it possible to mod body parts that do not normally heal (like the spine) to heal like any other broken limb? If so, that should probably be here.--[[User:Zipdog|Zipdog]] 03:39, 6 May 2009 (UTC)

== Making Coke from Other Materials ==

So rather than keep re-rolling maps before I found a small map with both adamantine and fuel/magma, I decided I'd just mod in a reaction to change gneiss or graphite or something into coke.

What I did was copy the entry under "smelt lignite into coke" from matgloss_reactions.txt and then changed all the "lignite" into "gneiss". However, it didn't work. There's no option at the smelter to create coke from gneiss. Is there something else I need to do? [[User:Lymojo|Lymojo]] 18:53, 15 May 2009 (UTC)Lymojo

:I believe that gneiss uses the "METAMORPHIC" subtype tag--whereas lignite does not have a subtype specified--so in the reaction.txt (mine's called reaction_standard, maybe because I'm using the Mac version) you have to change '''[REAGENT:1:STONE:NO_SUBTYPE:STONE:LIGNITE]''' to '''[REAGENT:1:STONE:METAMORPHIC:STONE:GNEISS]'''. Also: it appears that only stone in the "layer" and "soil" matglosses have defined subtypes, so you will always have to check their subtypes if you want to use them in reactions; minerals and ores, on the other hand, should work with "NO_SUBTYPE".[[User:Ohsottovoce|Ohsottovoce]] 16:43, 17 May 2009 (UTC)

== Magma-safe Mechanism Mod? ==
While I know this wiki isn't an FAQ-guide, I think it would be helpful for those poor noobs who can never find both Bauxite and magma/rivers in the same place. I can list the mod to give Iron the "any" property of adamantine, but I don't know specifically how to make Iron available for mechanisms otherwise.

:: To give Iron the "any" property of adamantine you need to (close Dwarf Fortress and) open your "...[Dwarf fortress]\raw\objects" folder, and open "matgloss_metal.txt". Lucky for you, Iron is the top most item and all you have to do is add "[ANY_USE]" (without quotation marks) to the end of the "[WEAPON][WEAPON_RANGED][AMMO][DIGGER][ARMOR][ANVIL]" string, save the file enjoy!

I didn't add this yet because I want to see if anyone else feels this should be added here before I do so on my own.
[[User:Kenji 03|Kenji 03]] 10:11, 24 July 2009 (UTC)

40d Talk:Anvil

2009-08-17T17:05:04Z

Arkenstone: /* Bars needed to make */

== Cleaning the page ==
I've made some cleanup alterations, both to the article and this discussion page. Hope you all don't mind. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 23:21, 22 February 2008 (EST)

== Bars needed to make ==
I've noticed this page doesn't list how many bars are required to make an anvil. Anyone who knows offhand? Seems like it'd be useful info. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 17:37, 22 February 2008 (EST)
:3. --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 18:43, 22 February 2008 (EST)
::Added this to the page. --[[User:Myroc|Myroc]] 16:25, 31 January 2009 (EST)
:::Or 9 Adamantine Wafers. ---[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]]

== Getting an anvil from the caravan ==
So is it possible to easily procure an anvil within the first 1-2 years? because if it is, then I'm going to ditch it on the embark screen and spend those 1000pts on turtles.
:Thats a lot of turtles. Get dogs instead. Imagine a swarm of pooches descending on a goblin fortress, taking no prisoners, and leaving no goblin child behind! --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 15:33, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:In my experience the first dwarven caravan brings one. However they will charge you dearly for it (~1000$), moreso if the anvil is steel (~3000$). Prices are from memory. [[User:Anonymousphrase|Anonymousphrase]] 15:51, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:: The caravan has a high chance of bringing one, it is not certain. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 09:27, 8 November 2007 (EST)
:::Dearly yes, but a well made stack of food will cover the cost of a steel one so it's not hard to buy out the caravan. I had one caravan turn up with two steel anvils and a stack of plump helmet (5). Seems that was all they could carry :( --10:21, 8 November 2007 (EST)
::::True, but that does take some planning. I never got enough cash (what is the correct dwarven word, the value word...) to buy the anvil in the first year, but I'm stupid and focus on creating goblets, and making enough beds etc for my dwarfs. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 13:57, 8 November 2007 (EST)
:::::Cash in the first year is easy. I often find myself trading mechanisms because they're relatively high value/item (fewer hauling jobs to the depot), and if you're buying an anvil you're taking a lot of weight off their wagon. Its not like you didn't bring a mechanic... Barring that, it is possible to make enough cheap stone trinkets to buy everything you really want off the caravan, assuming you don't mind carting a couple hundred trinkets to the depot. You had to eat all that stone somehow, right? I've also never seen a caravan without an anvil in the first year, assuming the wagons could get to me. (And heck, it generally takes me to the second year to have enough ready access to fuel to make it worth running a metalsmith anyway, barring nearby known magma) --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 05:28, 22 April 2008 (EDT)

I'd definitely been left high and dry by the first dwarven caravan before. Took me three long years before I was finally able to get my hands on an anvil!—Preceding [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment added by [[User:DaveLawson|DaveLawson]] ([[User talk:DaveLawson|talk]]•[[Special:Contributions/DaveLawson|contribs]]) {{{2|}}}
:I second that statement, I've regularly not seen an anvil show up with the first dwarven caravan. --[[User:Sentack|Sentack]] 11:00, 28 February 2008 (EST)

== Odd anvil materials ==
I have created a zinc anvil (value 200). Is this a bug?
::Anvil (100) made of zinc (x2) with no quality modifier (x1). 100 x2 x1 => 200. Looks right to me. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:29, 14 February 2008 (EST)
::Oh! Wait a minute. You aren't supposed to be able to make anvils out of zinc. What version are you using? I remember there was a bug where dwarves would use a different metal than the one assigned in the task, letting even pig iron be used to make stuff. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:31, 14 February 2008 (EST)
:::Heh, I'd like to have an archive of that version; I want a bismuth anvil. XD --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 11:55, 15 February 2008 (EST)
:::Pig iron stuff... I once had noble mandating pig iron items... He soon got locked in his room for such a crime against dwarvenkind. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 07:56, 22 April 2008 (EDT)
::::Remember that anvils can be made of anything if created by a moody dwarf! --[[User:Termitehead|Termitehead]] 09:09, 6 May 2008 (CST)
:::::pig iron bars count, steel bars might, so basically he wants you to make steel....--[[User:Eerr|Eerr]] 16:26, 8 August 2008 (EDT)

== Anvil Quality and/or Material Affecting Final Product? ==

Just to make a note, http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=23783.0 gives anecdotal evidence that the anvil material may affect the quality of items made. In summary, it seems from that post that items of 'higher' material than the anvil material has reduced quality chances (and by 'higher', I would guess the weapon/armor material modifiers). The adamantine scenario is in that post, but the implication is that for a steel industry, a steel anvil would be a good idea. Obviously, more testing is needed, and this might just be drivel. [[User:Blackcat|Blackcat]] 07:19, 26 August 2008 (EDT)

== Fire Safe Anvil? ==

i purchased an iron anvil from the caravan, and when i attempt to construct a metalsmith's forge, it says i need a fire-safe anvil. --[[User:Plstcflsh|Plstcflsh]] 00:55, 15 October 2008 (EDT)

:If you've only just bought it, chances are that the anvil is tasked ("[TSK]") with being taken to a suitable stockpile. Items that have been assigned a task, even hauling, are unavailable for any other purpose. If this is the case, just wait for the anvil to be stockpiled, at which point it will become available, and then build your forge. --[[User:Raumkraut|Raumkraut]] 02:02, 15 October 2008 (EDT)
::Long past helping OP but the alternative is, {{k|f}}orbid the item you need, then immediately re-designate the build job - forbidding things cancels any hauling jobs against them.[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 16:12, 18 July 2009 (UTC)

:::Whatever the case may be, you just invalidated the 'Wooden Anvil' theory: wood isn't fire-safe.
::::Besides, you need a metal axe to cut down trees ;) --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 13:32, 11 August 2009
:::::Naw, I think you might get lucky and have an Elf bring you a wooden axe, and as it's known Elves have mystical ways of getting the wood off of trees that doesn't harm it. [[User:Shardok|Shardok]] 19:58, 11 August 2009 (UTC)
::::::But what about the fire-safe requirement? I suppose that a wooden pick could be made first but then you still need charcoal... maybe using a bauxite anvil on magma? --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 10:42, 12 August 2009 (EST)

== Theory for first anvil ==

Maybe it was a pratchett thing? but I remember reading in some fantasy/comedy novel that the first anvil, was all there was in the beginning and the creator used it in creating the world.

Although, diskworld is on the back of a turtle so that might not be the case. But the dwarves involved were very pratchett-ish.
[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 01:15, 22 July 2009 (UTC)
::Well, on the topic of Terry Pratchett, did not Toady One the Great "write" the Dwarves into existence, just like in Pratchett's books? --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 13:02 17 August 2009 (EST)

40d Talk:Anvil

2009-08-17T17:03:41Z

Arkenstone: /* Theory for first anvil */ edited my talk

== Cleaning the page ==
I've made some cleanup alterations, both to the article and this discussion page. Hope you all don't mind. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 23:21, 22 February 2008 (EST)

== Bars needed to make ==
I've noticed this page doesn't list how many bars are required to make an anvil. Anyone who knows offhand? Seems like it'd be useful info. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 17:37, 22 February 2008 (EST)
:3. --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 18:43, 22 February 2008 (EST)
::Added this to the page. --[[User:Myroc|Myroc]] 16:25, 31 January 2009 (EST)

== Getting an anvil from the caravan ==
So is it possible to easily procure an anvil within the first 1-2 years? because if it is, then I'm going to ditch it on the embark screen and spend those 1000pts on turtles.
:Thats a lot of turtles. Get dogs instead. Imagine a swarm of pooches descending on a goblin fortress, taking no prisoners, and leaving no goblin child behind! --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 15:33, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:In my experience the first dwarven caravan brings one. However they will charge you dearly for it (~1000$), moreso if the anvil is steel (~3000$). Prices are from memory. [[User:Anonymousphrase|Anonymousphrase]] 15:51, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:: The caravan has a high chance of bringing one, it is not certain. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 09:27, 8 November 2007 (EST)
:::Dearly yes, but a well made stack of food will cover the cost of a steel one so it's not hard to buy out the caravan. I had one caravan turn up with two steel anvils and a stack of plump helmet (5). Seems that was all they could carry :( --10:21, 8 November 2007 (EST)
::::True, but that does take some planning. I never got enough cash (what is the correct dwarven word, the value word...) to buy the anvil in the first year, but I'm stupid and focus on creating goblets, and making enough beds etc for my dwarfs. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 13:57, 8 November 2007 (EST)
:::::Cash in the first year is easy. I often find myself trading mechanisms because they're relatively high value/item (fewer hauling jobs to the depot), and if you're buying an anvil you're taking a lot of weight off their wagon. Its not like you didn't bring a mechanic... Barring that, it is possible to make enough cheap stone trinkets to buy everything you really want off the caravan, assuming you don't mind carting a couple hundred trinkets to the depot. You had to eat all that stone somehow, right? I've also never seen a caravan without an anvil in the first year, assuming the wagons could get to me. (And heck, it generally takes me to the second year to have enough ready access to fuel to make it worth running a metalsmith anyway, barring nearby known magma) --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 05:28, 22 April 2008 (EDT)

I'd definitely been left high and dry by the first dwarven caravan before. Took me three long years before I was finally able to get my hands on an anvil!—Preceding [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment added by [[User:DaveLawson|DaveLawson]] ([[User talk:DaveLawson|talk]]•[[Special:Contributions/DaveLawson|contribs]]) {{{2|}}}
:I second that statement, I've regularly not seen an anvil show up with the first dwarven caravan. --[[User:Sentack|Sentack]] 11:00, 28 February 2008 (EST)

== Odd anvil materials ==
I have created a zinc anvil (value 200). Is this a bug?
::Anvil (100) made of zinc (x2) with no quality modifier (x1). 100 x2 x1 => 200. Looks right to me. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:29, 14 February 2008 (EST)
::Oh! Wait a minute. You aren't supposed to be able to make anvils out of zinc. What version are you using? I remember there was a bug where dwarves would use a different metal than the one assigned in the task, letting even pig iron be used to make stuff. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:31, 14 February 2008 (EST)
:::Heh, I'd like to have an archive of that version; I want a bismuth anvil. XD --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 11:55, 15 February 2008 (EST)
:::Pig iron stuff... I once had noble mandating pig iron items... He soon got locked in his room for such a crime against dwarvenkind. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 07:56, 22 April 2008 (EDT)
::::Remember that anvils can be made of anything if created by a moody dwarf! --[[User:Termitehead|Termitehead]] 09:09, 6 May 2008 (CST)
:::::pig iron bars count, steel bars might, so basically he wants you to make steel....--[[User:Eerr|Eerr]] 16:26, 8 August 2008 (EDT)

== Anvil Quality and/or Material Affecting Final Product? ==

Just to make a note, http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=23783.0 gives anecdotal evidence that the anvil material may affect the quality of items made. In summary, it seems from that post that items of 'higher' material than the anvil material has reduced quality chances (and by 'higher', I would guess the weapon/armor material modifiers). The adamantine scenario is in that post, but the implication is that for a steel industry, a steel anvil would be a good idea. Obviously, more testing is needed, and this might just be drivel. [[User:Blackcat|Blackcat]] 07:19, 26 August 2008 (EDT)

== Fire Safe Anvil? ==

i purchased an iron anvil from the caravan, and when i attempt to construct a metalsmith's forge, it says i need a fire-safe anvil. --[[User:Plstcflsh|Plstcflsh]] 00:55, 15 October 2008 (EDT)

:If you've only just bought it, chances are that the anvil is tasked ("[TSK]") with being taken to a suitable stockpile. Items that have been assigned a task, even hauling, are unavailable for any other purpose. If this is the case, just wait for the anvil to be stockpiled, at which point it will become available, and then build your forge. --[[User:Raumkraut|Raumkraut]] 02:02, 15 October 2008 (EDT)
::Long past helping OP but the alternative is, {{k|f}}orbid the item you need, then immediately re-designate the build job - forbidding things cancels any hauling jobs against them.[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 16:12, 18 July 2009 (UTC)

:::Whatever the case may be, you just invalidated the 'Wooden Anvil' theory: wood isn't fire-safe.
::::Besides, you need a metal axe to cut down trees ;) --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 13:32, 11 August 2009
:::::Naw, I think you might get lucky and have an Elf bring you a wooden axe, and as it's known Elves have mystical ways of getting the wood off of trees that doesn't harm it. [[User:Shardok|Shardok]] 19:58, 11 August 2009 (UTC)
::::::But what about the fire-safe requirement? I suppose that a wooden pick could be made first but then you still need charcoal... maybe using a bauxite anvil on magma? --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 10:42, 12 August 2009 (EST)

== Theory for first anvil ==

Maybe it was a pratchett thing? but I remember reading in some fantasy/comedy novel that the first anvil, was all there was in the beginning and the creator used it in creating the world.

Although, diskworld is on the back of a turtle so that might not be the case. But the dwarves involved were very pratchett-ish.
[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 01:15, 22 July 2009 (UTC)
::Well, on the topic of Terry Pratchett, did not Toady One the Great "write" the Dwarves into existence, just like in Pratchett's books? --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 13:02 17 August 2009 (EST)

40d Talk:Anvil

2009-08-17T17:02:43Z

Arkenstone: /* Theory for first anvil */

== Cleaning the page ==
I've made some cleanup alterations, both to the article and this discussion page. Hope you all don't mind. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 23:21, 22 February 2008 (EST)

== Bars needed to make ==
I've noticed this page doesn't list how many bars are required to make an anvil. Anyone who knows offhand? Seems like it'd be useful info. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 17:37, 22 February 2008 (EST)
:3. --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 18:43, 22 February 2008 (EST)
::Added this to the page. --[[User:Myroc|Myroc]] 16:25, 31 January 2009 (EST)

== Getting an anvil from the caravan ==
So is it possible to easily procure an anvil within the first 1-2 years? because if it is, then I'm going to ditch it on the embark screen and spend those 1000pts on turtles.
:Thats a lot of turtles. Get dogs instead. Imagine a swarm of pooches descending on a goblin fortress, taking no prisoners, and leaving no goblin child behind! --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 15:33, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:In my experience the first dwarven caravan brings one. However they will charge you dearly for it (~1000$), moreso if the anvil is steel (~3000$). Prices are from memory. [[User:Anonymousphrase|Anonymousphrase]] 15:51, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:: The caravan has a high chance of bringing one, it is not certain. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 09:27, 8 November 2007 (EST)
:::Dearly yes, but a well made stack of food will cover the cost of a steel one so it's not hard to buy out the caravan. I had one caravan turn up with two steel anvils and a stack of plump helmet (5). Seems that was all they could carry :( --10:21, 8 November 2007 (EST)
::::True, but that does take some planning. I never got enough cash (what is the correct dwarven word, the value word...) to buy the anvil in the first year, but I'm stupid and focus on creating goblets, and making enough beds etc for my dwarfs. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 13:57, 8 November 2007 (EST)
:::::Cash in the first year is easy. I often find myself trading mechanisms because they're relatively high value/item (fewer hauling jobs to the depot), and if you're buying an anvil you're taking a lot of weight off their wagon. Its not like you didn't bring a mechanic... Barring that, it is possible to make enough cheap stone trinkets to buy everything you really want off the caravan, assuming you don't mind carting a couple hundred trinkets to the depot. You had to eat all that stone somehow, right? I've also never seen a caravan without an anvil in the first year, assuming the wagons could get to me. (And heck, it generally takes me to the second year to have enough ready access to fuel to make it worth running a metalsmith anyway, barring nearby known magma) --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 05:28, 22 April 2008 (EDT)

I'd definitely been left high and dry by the first dwarven caravan before. Took me three long years before I was finally able to get my hands on an anvil!—Preceding [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment added by [[User:DaveLawson|DaveLawson]] ([[User talk:DaveLawson|talk]]•[[Special:Contributions/DaveLawson|contribs]]) {{{2|}}}
:I second that statement, I've regularly not seen an anvil show up with the first dwarven caravan. --[[User:Sentack|Sentack]] 11:00, 28 February 2008 (EST)

== Odd anvil materials ==
I have created a zinc anvil (value 200). Is this a bug?
::Anvil (100) made of zinc (x2) with no quality modifier (x1). 100 x2 x1 => 200. Looks right to me. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:29, 14 February 2008 (EST)
::Oh! Wait a minute. You aren't supposed to be able to make anvils out of zinc. What version are you using? I remember there was a bug where dwarves would use a different metal than the one assigned in the task, letting even pig iron be used to make stuff. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:31, 14 February 2008 (EST)
:::Heh, I'd like to have an archive of that version; I want a bismuth anvil. XD --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 11:55, 15 February 2008 (EST)
:::Pig iron stuff... I once had noble mandating pig iron items... He soon got locked in his room for such a crime against dwarvenkind. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 07:56, 22 April 2008 (EDT)
::::Remember that anvils can be made of anything if created by a moody dwarf! --[[User:Termitehead|Termitehead]] 09:09, 6 May 2008 (CST)
:::::pig iron bars count, steel bars might, so basically he wants you to make steel....--[[User:Eerr|Eerr]] 16:26, 8 August 2008 (EDT)

== Anvil Quality and/or Material Affecting Final Product? ==

Just to make a note, http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=23783.0 gives anecdotal evidence that the anvil material may affect the quality of items made. In summary, it seems from that post that items of 'higher' material than the anvil material has reduced quality chances (and by 'higher', I would guess the weapon/armor material modifiers). The adamantine scenario is in that post, but the implication is that for a steel industry, a steel anvil would be a good idea. Obviously, more testing is needed, and this might just be drivel. [[User:Blackcat|Blackcat]] 07:19, 26 August 2008 (EDT)

== Fire Safe Anvil? ==

i purchased an iron anvil from the caravan, and when i attempt to construct a metalsmith's forge, it says i need a fire-safe anvil. --[[User:Plstcflsh|Plstcflsh]] 00:55, 15 October 2008 (EDT)

:If you've only just bought it, chances are that the anvil is tasked ("[TSK]") with being taken to a suitable stockpile. Items that have been assigned a task, even hauling, are unavailable for any other purpose. If this is the case, just wait for the anvil to be stockpiled, at which point it will become available, and then build your forge. --[[User:Raumkraut|Raumkraut]] 02:02, 15 October 2008 (EDT)
::Long past helping OP but the alternative is, {{k|f}}orbid the item you need, then immediately re-designate the build job - forbidding things cancels any hauling jobs against them.[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 16:12, 18 July 2009 (UTC)

:::Whatever the case may be, you just invalidated the 'Wooden Anvil' theory: wood isn't fire-safe.
::::Besides, you need a metal axe to cut down trees ;) --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 13:32, 11 August 2009
:::::Naw, I think you might get lucky and have an Elf bring you a wooden axe, and as it's known Elves have mystical ways of getting the wood off of trees that doesn't harm it. [[User:Shardok|Shardok]] 19:58, 11 August 2009 (UTC)
::::::But what about the fire-safe requirement? I suppose that a wooden pick could be made first but then you still need charcoal... maybe using a bauxite anvil on magma? --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 10:42, 12 August 2009 (EST)

== Theory for first anvil ==

Maybe it was a pratchett thing? but I remember reading in some fantasy/comedy novel that the first anvil, was all there was in the beginning and the creator used it in creating the world.

Although, diskworld is on the back of a turtle so that might not be the case. But the dwarves involved were very pratchett-ish.
[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 01:15, 22 July 2009 (UTC)
::Well, on the topic of Terry Pratchett, did not Toady One the Great "write" the Dwarves into existence? --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 13:02 17 August 2009 (EST)

40d Talk:Cage

2009-08-17T16:57:38Z

Arkenstone: /* Cages and Fluids */

==Assigning animals / building cages==
How do you put more than one animal in a cage? [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 11:41, 9 November 2007 (EST)

:Once you hit (A)ssign, you should have a list of all tame animals in your fort. From here you can toggle whether or not a given animal is assigned to that cage by hitting Enter. You can do this for a number of creatures at once. Creatures already assigned to a cage or chain will have [A] out to the right of their listing. IIRC, there is a limit on the number of critters in a cage, but it's pretty high. One nice benefit is that if you put a male and female of the same species in a cage together, they can still breed.--[[User:RedKing|RedKing]] 12:25, 9 November 2007 (EST)

::Um...
::(A)ssign? Uh, I don't see that. (a) is announcements, and (A) does nothing. I can see a list of animals with both (u) and (z)->Animals, but they only let me assign to owners, slaughter, etc. Do I need a specific noble? [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 12:41, 9 November 2007 (EST)
::Ah, hold on. I appear to have only caught untamable creatures (yay... I guess). Does (A)ssign only work if I have caged, tame creatures? [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 12:45, 9 November 2007 (EST)

:::Cage options menu, I think {{k|q}} or {{k|t}}. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 12:48, 9 November 2007 (EST)
::::Wow, I'm being really awkward here. Sorry. {{k|q}} and {{k|t}} both give me options about the animal stockpile the cages are sitting on, or the ground below that. [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 12:55, 9 November 2007 (EST)
:::::Ahh, now I see the problem. You have to {{k|b}}uild the cage first, which moves it from the stockpile to whatever location you specify, then you can assign animals to it. Animal stockpiles just serve as collection points for your trappers to dump off their catch, or for new animals bought from caravans.--[[User:RedKing|RedKing]] 13:19, 9 November 2007 (EST)
::::::AHA! I see it now. Thanks for your help! [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 13:37, 9 November 2007 (EST)

== Possible addition ==

Maybe worth adding to the article : How do you empty cages of bones and seeds? What's the best way to get rid an untameable creature in a cage? [[User:Runspotrun|Runspotrun]] 21:15, 13 November 2007 (EST)
Answer to both questions is lava. [[User:Rkyeun|Rkyeun]] 17:21, 23 December 2007 (EST)
:Alternatively, if you're just trying to get them out, melting the cage will work as well. (assuming metal of course)
::bones and seeds in a cage can be dumped, the cage will remain where it is. Lava and melting will destroy the cage too, so thats not exactly helpful.--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 13:59, 2 March 2008 (EST)

You can build the cage and use {{k|d}}-{{k|b}}-{{k|d}} over the builded cage to dump all items in it. This includes the items of the caged creature but not the creature itself. --[[User:TCPR|TCPR]] 15:55, 1 November 2008 (EDT)

== Captured thieves ==
So, if you manage to catch a thief or a snatcher in a cage trap '''after''' he has already managed to steal something/one, is there any way to get it off him, without releasing and killing him in process?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:35, 13 January 2008 (EST)

:There might conceivably be some way to make him go [[melancholy]], at which point he might ditch all his items. I wouldn't know how to induce it, though.--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 04:43, 14 January 2008 (EST)

Found this at forum: You can find the items, carried by caged goblins/kobolds/whatever in the stocks menu and designate them for dumping, then dwarves will strip the prisoner. Cant check now. Anyone, confirm?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 07:06, 15 January 2008 (EST)

Yep, this works. Got a human macelord in cage, found (*steel morningstar*) at stock menu, {{K|z}}oomed to it - it pointed on macelord's cage so, it's his morningstar, {{K|d}}umped it, and voila: a dwarf comes to cage and gets morningstar out. The only thing unclear - how do you free a child from a bag?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 02:39, 16 January 2008 (EST)
:Magma works well I hear. [[User:Jikor|Jikor]]

:Alright, so this works with dumping. If I designate an item to be melted, will the furnace operator come take it off the captured goblin? How about if I have a standing order to improve clothing? Will my clothier come and take the (narrow cave spider silk trousers) and sew his cloth image on them? Or is actual dumping the only way? --[[User:Zombiejustice|Zombiejustice]] 09:12, 16 June 2008 (EDT)

== Dissapearing metal cages ==

I keep trying to make metal cages for a prison, but each time it gets completed the smith stands around a while and then it just dissapears. He doesn't even put it on a stockpile. Can anyone tell me what's happening?
—Preceding [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment added by [[User:Patarak|Patarak]] ([[User talk:Patarak|talk]]•[[Special:Contributions/Patarak|contribs]]) {{{2|}}}
:Have you tried tracking the cage in the stocks menu? Are you sure it disappeared? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 20:44, 25 January 2008 (EST)
:check with {{key|t}} if the cage is still in the workshop - also, u need an animal stockpile (not a furniture one)--[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 22:42, 7 March 2008 (EST)

== '''Stopping''' certain dwarves from un/caging ==

All right, I know how to {{key|q}}{{key|a}}sign animals to a cage. But even with [[animal hauling]] turned off, my dwarves still love putting furries into cages - how do I make it so that only my animal carers and animal trainers do this job? My miner drags herself from one end of the mine to the other to do this job![[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 05:44, 13 February 2008 (EST)

:Did you try with both hauling and care off? --[[User:N9103|Edward]] 08:17, 13 February 2008 (EST)
::All of my trades-dwarves (carpenters, miners, woodcutters etc) have '''only''' the following enabled: their trade, Health Care ('cause I don't want anyone to die for no real reason), Burial ('cause if they do die I wanna get rid of the evidence), and Cleaning (cause from what I hear, dwarves clean less than I do even with that one turned on). So yeah, I've got both Animal Hauling AND Animal Care turned off AFAIK.[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 03:25, 14 February 2008 (EST)
:::yep, seems anyone will cage/uncage. no way to stop it. --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 22:43, 7 March 2008 (EST)

== Confirming having children in cages ==

I noticed that the page says it's unsure whether or not animals can bear children when while in cages. To my experience they do, I recently had some donkey foals born when everything but my wardogs were caged up. They were also standing around right next to the cages. Anyone care to confirm this so we can add it to the page? --[[User:Eurytus|Eurytus]] 3:14, 28 March 2008 (EST)
:It says 'It is unsure if animals in a cage will mate, but animals can bear children when caged.' You just approved second part. What are you going to change?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 05:01, 28 March 2008 (EDT)
: I get what you're saying, I think. I'll spade it a little more to see if the couple continues to bear children even though they're both in the cage at all time before I consider changing anything.--[[User:Eurytus|Eurytus]] 5:34, 28 March 2008 (EST)
:: I'm still on it too. I'm waiting for the last offspring to be adults to make sure this isn't blocking new ones, plus 3 years to be sure, but it looks like the donkeys and groundhogs have really stopped breeding and the rest too. The requirements for getting pregnant seem to be rather low; having a free male and female ''somewhere'' on the map for a short time seems to be enough. --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 22:58, 28 March 2008 (EDT)
: I've confirmed that caged animals do not, in fact, mate. I did a controlled study with animals in cages, specifically with dogs. I brought along two dogs on a new fortress. As soon as they had puppies, I slaughtered the parents and caged the puppies. As immigrants came along, all newborn puppies were immediately caged, and I paid specific attention to which animals were giving birth. Over a 5 year period, 12 puppies matured into dogs (2 are still puppies), none of which gave birth. The only source of puppies were the pets. --[[User:JeebusSez|JeebusSez]] 22:10, 20 May 2008 (EDT)
:: animals reproduce asexually anyway, for some reason - i had a walled up puppy that grew up and had a puppy of its own, as well as a single (tame) mountain goat in my fortress, which had two sets of kids - i butchered the first lot so no, they didnt impregnate their mother... [[User:Twiggie|Twiggie]] 16:45, 12 July 2008 (EDT)
:::Every fortress I've ever played contradicts what is reported here. I've never seen a tame animal in a cage *not* breed. I've been caging and breeding tame animals (captured and imported) since 2D. I suppose I'll have to do some more testing. Not so sure why the user was able to produce these results. I'm also confused as to why they would slaughter the parents and what sort of effect that is supposed to have on the data. It could be that this somehow prevents the puppies from ever learning how to breed, or some other strange effect. See the picture at [http://dwarf.lendemaindeveille.com/index.php/Talk:Meat_industry#Contact_for_breeding|the discussion for the meat industry.][[User:Schm0|Schm0]] 16:57, 20 April 2009 (UTC)

::::I store all my puppies in cages aside from a chained male/female/female. Never have had a matured dog in a cage give birth. Isn't this something that has been tested/confirmed before? The standard advice on the forums is to cage cats to prevent breeding, and it seems to solve the problems. Slaughtering the parents wouldn't cause some strange effect as children don't learn anything from parents currently. How did you do your testing? If they were matured when you stuck them in the cage then chances are they were already pregnant thanks to the spores effect. --[[User:Elvang|Elvang]] 17:45, 20 April 2009 (UTC)

== Cages and Fluids ==
Do creatures need to breath in a cage? If you have an unconstructed/constructed cage underwater does the inhabitant drown? If you have a unconstructed/constructed magma-proof cage under magma does the inhabitant burn up? [[User:Yvain|Yvain]] 08:29, 6 April 2008 (EDT)
:Here is the experiment I conducted:
:* built a large deep empty pool
:* put a goblin cage and a cage stockpile at the bottom of it
:* waiting for a dwarf to put some goblin cages in the stockpile
:* turned on the pumps to flood the room
:* had a dwarf throw (pit/pond) another goblin into the pool
:* waiting until the thrown (pit/ponded) goblin drowned and then emptied the pool
:Results: Neither the goblins in the constructed cage or the goblins in the unconstructed cage in the stockpile died. So in conclusion it appears that caged creatures do not need air. [[User:Yvain|Yvain]] 23:25, 9 April 2008 (EDT)

::Does this also hold for fish? [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 02:11, 10 April 2008 (EDT)
:::Knowing the questionable physics of DF, it wouldn't surprise me to find out that both land animals and fish in the same cage need neither air nor water, simultaneously. A kind of quantum stasis or cryogenics. --[[User:DDouble|DDouble]] 18:16, 31 July 2008 (EDT)
::::I actually did it! I managed to trap carp in wooden cages in a drainable chamber! I then added the [PET] tag to their raw file, and I actually was able to tame them! --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 12:57 17 August 2009 (EST)

== Building materials ==
It appears that it takes four bars of metal to make a cage. How many logs of wood? How many bags of sand? These are things it would be nice to have in the article. --[[User:zombiejustice|zombiejustice]] 00:51, 03 June 2008 (CDT)

== Trading caged animals ==

Okay, so I just tried ordering my caged [[Fire Imp]] (wooden cage, go figure ^_^) to the trade depot so that the humans could take it away. A dwarf instead opened the cage and let the thing go, and the now empty cage was taken to the depot. Fortunately the humans smote it before it could set anything alight, but it would've been nice to sell the thing to them, so they could've smitten it on their own time. Does this always happen with caged wild animals? --[[User:Raumkraut|Raumkraut]] 14:28, 12 July 2008 (EDT)
:Like anything else being taken to the [[trade depot]] - order the [[container]] (in this case the cage) to be taken to the depot not the contents. You ordered just the contents, so they took just the contents out of the container.[[User:GarrieIrons|GarrieIrons]] 00:18, 13 July 2008 (EDT)
::Not so. I've just tried with a "dog cage (Acacia)". The relevant cage shows up under both "pets" and "cages" sections of the "bring to depot" list. ''Neither'' of these options caused the dog to be released from the cage. And if I'd selected the fire imp rather than the cage, then why would the (then empty) cage be taken to the depot? --[[User:Raumkraut|Raumkraut]] 13:18, 13 July 2008 (EDT)
:To answer my own question, this is [http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/dev_bugs.html#Bug41 known bug #000041] (means it's been around a while, I guess!). As mentioned in [http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=000444 this forum thread]. --[[User:Raumkraut|Raumkraut]] 13:34, 13 July 2008 (EDT)
:On the other hand, if you don't feel like spending time setting up mechanisms and pulling levers, and you happen to be trading, this is a decent way to free up cage traps while letting your military practice. Station your military by the cage traps, mark them for trade, and watch the sparks fly. The civilians always run away right quick while the military fills the trapped goblins/animals with bloody holes. -[[User:Fuzzy|Fuzzy]] 15:33, 19 September 2008 (EDT)

== Training Vermin in Cages ==

How can you train them? I want some rats, dragonflies, and some lizards as pets.--[[User:Seaneat|Seaneat]] 03:12, 4 August 2008 (EDT)
: You train animals in a kennel ({{key|b}}->{{key|k}}), by a Dwarf with the Animal Trainer skill activated. Depending on the animal, you either use the command to train a small animal or a large animal. I'm not sure right now of the condition of the cage or trap in which the animal is stored but I am sure it has to be stock{{key|p}}iled, at least. --[[User:FJH|FJH]] 18:56, 24 February 2009 (EST)

== Cage Trading Caveats-Elves ==

I'm not sure it's directly relevant to pretty much anything, but I found the section about elves trading wounded animals to be very interesting. Has anyone here read [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lords_and_Ladies_(novel) "Lords and Ladies"], from Terry Pratchett's Discworld series? In it, elves are described as being particularly cruel, and are said to be good at keeping creatures alive- sometimes for months(with the suggestion being that they torture them ''very slowly'' to death).

Could DF elves perhaps be similar? Apparently Discworld elves are based off [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elves_(Discworld) pre-Tolkien British and European folklore,] but I don't know enough about that to be able to draw a reasonable conclusion.
Anyway, just wanted to throw that out there. Perhaps it's not actually a bug? ;) --[[User:Gnavin|Gnavin]]

==Animal Stockpile doesn't move caged animals==
I built a cage and assigned creatures to it. I assumed they would take that cage to the animal stockpile. It makes sense. So far all they've taken there is my empty cage. I'm guessing that I'm doing it wrong, that building cages is not the way to move them (maybe once they're built, they're forever immobile until you unbuild them?). But how do you capture animals in a cage without building the cage?

:You have some of it right, but you're confusing about 3 different actions, all of which are explained on their own wiki pages.

:You {{key|b}}uild a [[cage]] if you want to un/assign creatures to that cage ''(or designate it as a [[jail]] - but chains are deemed better)'' - the cage then becomes a structure, the same as a door or bridge, until deconstructed. Once deconstructed, it then again becomes a portable item, with any and all creatures still inside.*

::''(* FYI - a cage with many animals is HEAVY. A dwarf could take a long time to move something like that. Still might be faster than the alternatives, but be aware.)''

:You can designate an animal [[stockpile|stock{{key|p}}ile]] and cages and/or animals in cages will be moved there for storage - but you can't interact much with them at that point, until the cage is built somewhere. There is an option ({{key|u}}, iirc?) that allows you to toggle whether empty cages are allowed. {{key|f}}orbiding all animals but allowing empty cages gets you a stockpile full of... empty cages.

:To capture a large creature, you must use a [[mechanism]] and {{key|c}}onstruct a cage [[trap|{{key|T}}rap]] ({{key|c}}, {{key|T}}, {{key|c}}). To capture vermin, you must {{key|q}}uery a kennel or butcher's shop and have a [[trapper]] try to catch them.--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 03:40, 10 May 2009 (UTC)

::Ah, thanks so much. I'm dumb. It makes sense. I didn't realize that you could deconstruct a cage and keep the creatures inside, I should've tried that or just read the article more carefully. Many thanks.

== Cages and Unwanted Dwarven Inhabitants ==

I think that it would be useful to have a section on removing unwanted inhabitants.
Not only for wiki-readers, but also for me. :)
I have searched high and low, but I cannot find any workable answers for my dilemma.
Problem: Unconscious dwarves trigger cage traps, which lead to them being irretrievable.
Thanks in advance!
Apparently it's a fairly common problem, so I think it would be good to have.
:I also had this problem. I fixed it by setting the cage to be melted ({{k|k}}->{{k|m}}) and then adding the task to the forge ({{k|q}}->{{k|o}}). The dwarf in the cage was released and the cage was melted...although you can probably un-toggle melting the cage just after the dwarf is released... --[[User:Wizjany|Wizjany]] 21:10, 6 July 2009 (UTC)

== Dungeon master handles gobos ==
For fun I ordered 2 (armed) goblins in cages to be transferred to another cage - the inital result was as expected - havoc and lots of interrupt messages. But then my dungeon master came along and swiftly took both of them to the new cage - awesome! --[[User:Confused|Confused]] 20:18, 7 July 2009 (UTC)

== Assigning pets ==
While the game won't allow you to assign somebody's pet to a cage, I've noticed that if you assign a cat to a cage and it adopts ''while being caged'', it will still be placed in the cage (where it will then be unable to contribute to a [[catsplosion]]). --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 18:21, 24 July 2009 (UTC)

40d Talk:Noble

2009-08-17T16:46:07Z

Arkenstone: /* Selling Nobles */

== Nobles affected by Reclaiming? ==

My current fortress is a reclaimed one, due to a fire that got into one of my guardtowers' food storage. In the old fortress, I had managed to get a Baron, who was soon skipping right up to Duke and Incoming king after a couple of immigrants. Well, after reclaiming, I proceeded as normal, except, even though my value is still incredibly high from the fortress (1 million+ created wealth, and 400k exported, now), I recieved a count within it's specified area of requirement, but not the Baron before. Even still, My Count does not seem to be upgrading to Duke anytime soon, seeing as I have 188 dwarves, now. Anyone have any ideas, now? [[User:Jwguy|Jwguy]] 12:56, 6 June 2009 (UTC)

== Noble Additions and Requirements ==

Added the dungeon keeper noble. He just showed up at my fort in year 1053. --[[Idles]]

I'm "fixing" the change, "16:59, 31 October 2007 Lightning4 (Talk | contribs) (1,934 bytes) (→Appointments - Isn't called bookkeeper, at least when the fortress is new.)", because in my forts it IS called bookkeeper when the fortress starts. Other edits have backed me up, suspect editor was confused--Please discuss this here? --[[User:Sowelu|Sowelu]] 15:09, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

:I apologize, I was indeed incorrect. You do start with a Bookkeeper, which in very short order can be upgraded to a Treasurer. Unsure of requirements, possibly only requires 20 dwarves like the sheriff. My fortress has one and I haven't even done anything besides changed who had bookkeeping and set it to higher priority (did not build study yet). That's probably what got me confused since the bookkeeper upgrades very quickly. [[User:Lightning4|Lightning4]] 18:11, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

::Yeah, 20 dwarves sounds accurate enough to put in there. He didn't turn when I had only 17. --[[User:Sowelu|Sowelu]] 18:14, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

"Your original expedition leader will be the fourth dwarf down in the starting screen(the one in the middle)." This does not seem to hold true; I have a newly-developed habit of making the last dwarf on the screen (used to be my designated hauler-peasant) into the administrator, with all the social skills for filling the four starter noble roles. He gets auto-assigned to all four administrative positions; I'm thinking that instead of being fixed or random, the starting assignment is based on social skills. --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 00:29, 1 November 2007 (EDT)

I had a Philosopher show up last night. I'm unsure of the requirement to get him; the only really notable thing that had happened was I got over 100 dwarves. I'm adding him to the list of Nobles, though, since I can confirm he still exists in the new version. I also divided the page structure between Appointed and Immigrant nobles, since the current header was misleading (Dungeon Master and Philosopher cannot be appointed). --[[User:Zurai|Zurai]] 20:55, 10 November 2007 (EST)

I had the king show up tonight. "The King arrives, dressed as a peasant." I have no idea what the requirements were. I missed the 1051 and 1052 dwarf caravans due to prolonged sieges, and had no immigrants those years. 1053 I had the caravan; a season later a wave of immigration brought my total dwarves up to 37. In the spring the king arrived, along with enough others to bring the population to 63. At that time I was notified that the Captain of the Guard position was available. Only thing I can think is that I hit adamantine during the siege years, and mistakenly built a number of ridiculously valuable adamantine objects. (Door, Coffin, etc.) This has raised my fortress value to 1.3 million. Is 1 million value perhaps the trigger? I have no coins, and no nobles other than the starting 4 positions. I did not appoint a sheriff. [[User:Doctorlucky|Doctorlucky]] 04:15, 15 November 2007 (EST)
:In the last version, hitting adamantine without proper requirement for the king triggered the reaction of having the king arrive dressed as a paysant. Maybe it's the same here. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 04:20, 15 November 2007 (EST)
== What determines expedition leader? ==

There are a number of situations to test out:
* No social skills on any dwarves
** ''Probably random, possibly based on the Dwarf's thoughts and preferences''
* Majority of social skills on one dwarf (various positions in start order)
** ''Test case 1: only one dwarf has social skills - gives that dwarf as leader and all positions''
* Social skills spread between multiple dwarves
** Is there any weight on which skill determines the leader?
--[[User:Shagie|Shagie]] 01:25, 1 November 2007 (EDT)

:Is the first point certain? In my current fortress, I didn't assign any social skills to any dwarf, and I'm pretty certain that the dwarf that ended up expedition leader was the seventh in the list. --[[User:Peristarkawan|Peristarkawan]] 02:28, 2 November 2007 (EDT)
::In my current fort I assigned no social skills and the first dwarf in the list, one of my miners, is the expedition leader. --[[User:Moller|Moller]] 02:40, 2 November 2007 (EDT)
:::Might be randomised then, I started three new fortresses for the test and each time it was the same so I made an assumption. Obviously this isn't the case can you two check what thoughts/prefs you have for those so we can look for some leadership criteria. --[[User:Shades|Shades]] 08:10, 2 November 2007 (EDT)
::::It's almost always been the first dwarf for me (assuming no one had leadership skills), but I could have sworn one time it assigned someone else. Maybe it defaults to the first dwarf on the list but can sometimes choose someone else under certain conditions. [[User:Rpb|Rpb]] 22:29, 10 November 2007 (EST)
:::::Perhaps the first dwarf didn't get it because of negative preferences? Some dwarves have a line in their thoughts/prefs that reads something like "X prefers to let others take leadership roles". [[User:Tocky|Tocky]] 11:04, 11 November 2007 (EST)

==Room requirements==
Maybe something about the nobles requiring better rooms and how to build them? --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 15:15, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:Found it in [[room]]s, adding a link. --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 15:34, 4 November 2007 (EST)

== Not 100? ==

I just received migrants. My population went from 76 to 100, and my settlement went from a village to a town. No nobles arrived with the migrants. [[User:Geekwad|Geekwad]] 17:14, 18 November 2007 (EST)
:Still a town at 108
:Another wave, and we're a city at 111 (migrants still incoming)
::My population went from 101 to 126 in one wave. A Baroness arrived at the same time and turned my settlement into a Barony. Shortly afterwards, my settlement turned into a County (125+ dwarves?). Then Baroness upgraded into a Countess. Baron consort upgraded to a Count Consort.--[[User:Slumber|Slumber]] 16:49, 19 November 2007 (EST)
::Next immigration wave, my pop hit 138. Nothing happens. Then next immigration wave, my pop hits 141, the Countess upgrades to Duchess and the Count Consort upgrades to Duke Consort. Also, "Incoming King" is the top line on the Nobles screen. When you select it, it shows you what you need to achieve in terms of 1. architecture value (15000) 2. road value (5000) and 3. offerings value. (5000). I'm not sure what criteria triggers the King as it happened at the same time as my Duchess. I did just hit 200k exported wealth. Conincedence? --[[User:Slumber|Slumber]] 10:27, 20 November 2007 (EST)
::Another wave, jumped to 161 pop, and some more nobles, a Duke and his Duke Consort. Now I have both a Duke and Duchess!--[[User:Slumber|Slumber]] 14:06, 20 November 2007 (EST)
:I was made a city and a barony at 110, and promoted to county almost immediately after. No new immigration happened, and I hadn't reached the 120 mark yet. [[User:Rpb|Rpb]] 16:27, 24 November 2007 (EST)
:The last immigration wave brought me from 98 to a total of 124 including baron/consort, tax collector and hammerer. It is now a City and a Barony. I'll watch out if it changes on the first immigrant from the next wave.I currently have over 500k created wealth and 17000 exported.--[[User:Another|Another]] 16:05, 24 November 2007 (EST)
:One child is born and now my total population is 125. Still a City and a Barony.--[[User:Another|Another]] 09:23, 25 November 2007 (EST)
:My fortress was upgraded to County when the caravan left the map and my exported wealth leaped from 17k to 26k. The trigger for the County must be either 20k or 25k exported wealth. --[[User:Another|Another]] 12:47, 25 November 2007 (EST)
::Baron arrived during an immigration wave going from 88 to 112 dwarves, and upgraded to a Count not long after arrival but ''not'' immediately either (perhaps as the population went over 100?). Exported wealth was probably around 50k at the time. Now at 119 (and 80k exported) and not yet a Duke. Looks like there's a combination of factors involved. [[User:Cim|Cim]] 11:10, 14 December 2007 (EST)
:Upgrade of the fortress to Duchy was at exactly 140th dwarf from an immigration wave. "The Incoming King" included. Total created wealth - 950k, total exported - 30k.--[[User:Another|Another]] 16:37, 1 December 2007 (EST)
: My Baron arrived in the immigration wave that took me over 100 (I had peaked at 96 previously) but this was also the season where I crossed the 50,000 threshold on exported wealth. I actually went from 48,000 to 62,000 over the course of the year, and the baron arrived in the Spring, I did have an immigration wave after crossing 50,000 in the fall. Almost immediately after my baron arrived, he was promoted to count. My population is 119. --[[User:Mitchy|Mitchy]] 16:41, 3 January 2008 (EST)
:At exported wealth 45k, my Baron promoted to Count at the 110th immigrant. (Baron arrived in the first immigration wave after getting 80 population, can't remember what exported wealth was then) [[User:Cim|Cim]] 20:12, 5 January 2008 (EST)
:Population at 93 no Baron. Next wave - first person to arrive is a Countess, with this wave population went to 114. (So, had no Baron at all) --[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:39, 10 January 2008 (EST)

Verified about 140 limit for Duke. My Wrestler have given birth to a boy, the populationd got to 140, and the next message is about the fortress becoming a capital of Duchy. --[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 00:10, 24 January 2008 (EST)

== Queen As Peasant ==

I had dug out some raw adamantine, not done anything with it, and I got a notification that 'Your ruler has arrived disguised as a peasant.' At the same time, my Dungeon Master arrived. I don't have an announcement in the log about the Queen, but I do about the DM. I'm treating her like it's legit, what's the deal?

:Your ruler has heard of the discovery of adamantine, and hurried to yuor fort to oversee the digging. She turned up "disguised as a peasant" because your fort doesn't meet the regular requirements for attracting the monarch and moving to your site officially would be embarassing (in roleplaying/story terms of course). She's perfectly legit, just wasn't attracted in the "conventional" sense by having the largest, wealthiest fort in the civilisation you belong to.--[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 06:42, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

== Baron mandates "crowns"? ==

I just got a baron, and the first thing he mandates is two crowns. So i type Crown into the jobs/manager list. nothing. So I type crown in dwarf wiki. Nothing. Can anyone help before I have to drop this noble into a pit to keep him from locking up my crafters?
:Info about specific crafts isn't present in the new wiki, but a crown is in fact a "craft" item. [http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Craftsdwarf%27s_Workshop#Crafts You can see the old wiki info about crafts here]. You'll probably need to set several crafting jobs to get a crown since the item produced by a crafting task is random with several possibilities. --[[User:Janus|Janus]] 00:06, 1 February 2008 (EST)

== Killing nobles ? ==

Is killing nobles dangerous ? (does it stop immigrations or something ?)

Because I've got a Count totally uncontrolable, who can't stop throwing tantrums in the middle of my fortress, which is somewhat tiresome... So, if I just can lock him into his bedroom and let him starve to death, it would be great, but I don't know if it won't cause more problems..

(Also, sorry for my bad english, I'm french)
[[User:Timst|Timst]] 05:40, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

:Killing off your nobles only really has the penalties associated with killing any other dwarf - their friends and family will be upset, and you lose that dwarf's abilities. In the case of nobles a replacement will usually turn up with the next migrant wave, unless your fort no longer meets the requirements for that noble. You can, of course, kill the replacement too - with lesser repercussions as he won't have had time to make any friends yet.--[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 06:38, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

::Ok, thanks :) I was afraid that the death of a count could induct a reaction of the mountainhomes or something like that... If the only reaction will be the one of the countess, it will be ok :) [[User:Timst|Timst]] 07:00, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

:::In the future, killing off a noble will have repercussions, however, so don't depend on that behaviour forever. ;-)
:::''Req291, NOBLE DEATH, (Future): Killing off nobles needs to have serious consequences. Once the counties (see Core28) are in, there could be revolts from the village if the count is popular. Other nobles could have angry relatives. Losing your law enforcement nobles could lead to more tantrums and other acts in large fortresses. Nobles should all be upset by the death of the tax collector. When a noble is buried, other dwarves could be sealed in the tomb.''
:::--[[User:JT|JT]] 15:11, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

::::This doesn't sound like it has much effect on a "kill early, kill often" approach — e.g. preparing their death room immediately upon their arrival, and luring them in via a profile-set lever pull job. The count won't be popular (at least in your fort) if nobody knows him, unless he's popular by reputation or something. Angry relatives? If they show up friendly but ready to tantrum, I draft / lure them into killing rooms; if they're hostile, I deal with them like a siege. Nobles all being upset by the tax collector means nothing if I've killed all the nobles. And it's not like I'm going to make tombs for them, either. Only the law enforcement one looks like an issue.

::::On the other hand, maybe that's the point — you're penalised if you just randomly kill nobles because you don't like them, but you're also allowed to run a "screw the nobility, we're a free communal fortress" game (or have a "kill the entire current regime, we want a revolution" event) so long as you actively enforce it. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 19:02, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

: Another issue that can pop up is killing your Baron/Count/Duke, their spouse will stick around and remain a noble even after the replacement and their spouse has shown up. On one fortress my count had 3 Countess Consorts, one was his wife and the other 2 were leftovers from the previous 2 counts. One Baron happened to be standing under a drawbridge as it came down (don't ask what a drawbridge was doing in his room, lets just say he wasn't going to get that rock crystal item he wanted) and his widow was promoted to Countess Consort when the new Count showed up to replace him a few seasons later. That Count was tending a farm when a squad of gobs beat the living tar out of him and his widow remained a Countess Consort even after the third noble arrived to replace the dead Count. They all still make demands/mandates and still require rooms/tombs and all that as before. [[User:Lando242|Lando242]] 20:55, 18 January 2009 (EST)

== Sorting nobles ==
I find it rather silly to have the Expedition leader in the ''Appointed'' section just to be immediately told (s)he can not be appointed. I'm too newbie in terms of nobles to draft sections that make sense, but I feel this needs changing.[[User:Aykavil|Aykavil]] 08:23, 7 July 2008 (EDT)

== Selling Nobles ==
<tt>╔═╦═╗</tt> Unlock doors, assign lever to noble, order lever pulled. 
<tt>║ò┼^┼</tt> Wait for noble to stand on cage trap, lock both doors. 
<tt>╚═╩═╝</tt> Wait for noble to fall asleep, sell caged noble to elves. 
:Sorry for the crude drawing. My wiki format skills are weak. [[User:Rkyeun|Rkyeun]] 14:36, 20 September 2008 (EDT)

:Eh... except for the small known bug where trying to haul an occupied cage to the trading depot results in whatever is caged being freed and the empty cage being brought in. But once they fix that bug, maybe. -[[User:Fuzzy|Fuzzy]] 16:30, 20 September 2008 (EDT)

::I've been trying to sell my dwarves for ages, as a 'clean' approach to dealing with nobles and unwanted immigration. Sadly, they always seem to die of thirst first. If I let them out just once to drink, they die of hunger. Maybe if I let them out twice... but that's a lot of effort. Better to just let them die, unless they're very popular or something. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 19:06, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

:::Selling to the Elves? That's too cruel, even for nobles! Don't you know that the Elves are '''Cannibals!?!''' --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 12:45 17 August 2009 (EST)
::::[ENTITY:FOREST]
:::::[CREATURE:ELF]
:::::[ETHIC:EAT_SAPIENT_KILL:ACCEPTABLE]

== Category? ==

I would do this myself if I knew how, but perhaps someone should make a noble category, with all the noble related articles (Unfortunate accident, mandate, types of nobles, etc) in it. I think it would be useful. [[User:Spoggerific|Spoggerific]] 20:53, 10 August 2008 (EDT)

==Nobles Working==

Actually, nobles not only gather harvest if you put all dwarves harvest on, but they also help demolishing constructed walls.=--[[User:Stinhad Limarezum|Stinhad Limarezum]] 00:53, 23 October 2008 (EDT)

:Thanks, I'll add that to [[labor]].--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 03:16, 23 October 2008 (EDT)

==Arrival Requirements Verified==
Ok, I just had the Baroness, Hammerer, and Tax Collector arrive simultaneously with no other dwarves. I'm playing with a population cap of 50, and births (plus overflow of last immigration wave) has finally taken me up to exactly 80 dwarves. Despite the population cap, the Baroness, Tax Collector, and Hammerer arrived by themselves.

<s>Note that the Baroness Consort has not arrived, presumably because he takes the place of a normal dwarf during the immigration wave and can't be generated in violation of the population cap (whereas the other three can).</s> nevermind, he just showed up.

I should also note that I earlier had the King arrive as a peasant by himself despite being at the population cap. He also brought no consort nor advisor (although I've never had him arrive as a peasant before, so I don't know if that's normal).

I have not seen a philosopher as of yet.

As my fortress wealth is past 8 million at this point, I think its safe to say I can rule that out as a cause (having seen them at much lower wealth in default pop cap games).

--[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 19:30, 7 December 2008 (EST)

:I had the usual five nobles show up once in an immigration wave that took me over 80 dwarves, and promptly killed them, along with most of the immigrants. I subsequently set my population max to 50. My current population (minus nobles) is 69, yet those same nobles continue to show up every few seasons, suggesting that once you become a barony (80 pop, initial baron/ess arrival), they'll continue to show up again, regardless of your current status. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 19:10, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

==Noble demands==

I currently have a Baroness demanding "item in Dining Room". Any idea what could satisfy this? I tried a bismuth bronze statue, no luck. [[User:JubalHarshaw|JubalHarshaw]] 00:24, 5 January 2009 (EST)

: This is a bug. Check # 000491 @ http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/dev_bugs.html --[[User:Sinergistic|Sinergistic]] 00:47, 5 January 2009 (EST)

==Pretentious Arrangements==

Thoughts about a lesser's pretentious <whatever> arrangements seem to be a common source of noble unhappiness. (this is especially annoying for me as my mayor has an artifact in her bedroom raising it to Royal and my queen has no list of likes and dislikes, so I can't make her happy just by having the right booze) it would be interesting to know what exactly causes the difference between "upset" and "shattered", how to avoid it, and good ways to mitigate it's effects. I might have to do some research on my old fort to check this myself. --[[User:Pyrite|Pyrite]] 13:58, 6 January 2009 (EST)

:Well, I suspect that the difference is related to the difference in room value, although I suppose that's stating the obvious. Another obvious solution would be to move the artefact into the higher-ranked Noble's room, assuming that's possible. Otherwise, I suppose the simplest (if not the easiest) way to mitigate its effects is to add as much value as possible to the Queen's room. As well as furniture, you can get surprising results with smoothings, engravings, and building an expensive floor over the engraved one if you have no qualms about exploiting such strangeness.--[[User:Quil|Quil]] 18:07, 6 January 2009 (EST)
::I can confirm it's the difference between relative worth. I kept getting these annoying messages in my count + consort until I stuffed a platinum statue in their rooms. Obviously, this increased the worth of the room by 12K, easily dominating the 'lesser' quarters.

::It does require that there be a significant difference; having them at roughly equal worth will cause unhappy thoughts, which was my problem in my most recent fortress. I just housed all my nobles in the same residential stack as everyone else, adding extra room additions off the main design for offices, dining rooms, etc. The Count's room was a LITTLE better as his walls happened to be ore-bearing, but it wasn't enough to please him, hence the statue.--[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 10:04, 7 January 2009 (EST)
:::Alright, I've put the artefact cabinet back in my mayor's room, and now will proceed to test this principle by making the Queen's rooms incredibly nice. I'm going to start by replacing all her furniture with gold and platinum, and move up from there.--[[User:Pyrite|Pyrite]] 15:49, 7 January 2009 (EST)
::::You may have a long way to go. Artifact furniture can easily be 50 or 60K, whereas the most expensive single piece of furniture I've ever been able to produce is a masterwork platinum statue, which is 12K. --[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 16:36, 7 January 2009 (EST)

::::While you can't order artifacts dumped, you can apparently order them forbidden. So maybe you could forbid it and then move the creator's quarters elsewhere, leaving the original one vacant. Or maybe you could make them temporary quarters elsewhere, wait for them to move the artifact, then forbid it and move them back. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 19:22, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

== Noble upgrade size. ==

I have a count still event though I have 148 dwarves. Could it be dependant on more than just the 140, or is it different now? [[User:PierreMonteux|PierreMonteux]] 21:55, 11 February 2009 (EST)

: I'm at 188 dwarves still with a count not a duke. Could there be a dependancy on metal jobs? Other than melting down the goblin metal, I don't have any metal jobs going. [[User:PierreMonteux|PierreMonteux]] 10:47, 14 February 2009 (EST)

I just had a peasant give birth to a baby. This put my population at 110, and I immediately got a message that my fortress had been made into a county. So, I will remove the "verify" tags from the count/count consort promotion info.--[[User:Scrotch|Scrotch]] 18:59, 27 May 2009 (UTC)

::I'm certain that exports are a requirement. Remember that only wealth you have created can count as exports, trading goblin items won't raise the number. If you can't offer it, it doesn't count. I had a fortress with 140+ dwarves that jumped up to a barony from nothing when I started exporting. --[[User:Sensei|Sensei: Last seen somewhere in the Basic Jungle of Terror]] 20:03, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

== Failure to comply ==

I'm surprised this hasn't come up yet, but what happens if you don't give a noble the room he/she requires? I know they get unhappy thoughts, but is that all? Will they punish anyone? Or just start throwing tantrums? Next useless noble I get is sleeping in the barracks. On the floor.
:Unhappy thoughts? I don't think there is any repercusions. --[[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 16:26, 12 May 2009 (UTC)
::Unhappy nobles means more mandates, more demands and harsher sentences. --[[User:Sensei|Sensei: Last seen somewhere in the Basic Jungle of Terror]] 20:04, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

I just read this and checked my noble's happiness levels and justice levels, and even though they all seem ecstatic lately I have someone who's being jailed for 64 days, which I think is pretty extreme. I have been fulfilling hardly any of their mandates though, so perhaps jail time is related more to mandates than happiness?[[User:Gnavin|Gnavin]] 14:29, 29 July 2009 (UTC)

== Why Nobles Exist: ==

Nobles exist because Dwarven government is a feudal system; the fortress is just a semi-autonomous local government which must still answer to the King, and here's why:
::Long ago in the Age of Myth, the King's ancestor was legendary +5 in every military skill and took control of everything, killing all who resisted. His descendants are now <s>fat, lazy, whoremongering, good for nothing slobs</s> not as <s>cool</s> personally strong as he was, but they still technically own everything, including "your" fortress. The expedition that went to "colonize the King's land" did so with his permission, <s>usually given while drunk</s>. When your fortress becomes large enough that it can no longer <s>avoid notice</s> govern itself "properly", the King sends one of his <s>drinking mates</s> representatives to <s>screw up</s> "manage" the fortress. The nobles hold the authority of the King, and so there every <s>ridiculous</s> <s>stupid</s> <s>impossible</s> "reasonable" mandate "MUST" be obeyed. --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 12:37 17 August, 2009 (EST)

40d Talk:Noble

2009-08-17T16:37:18Z

Arkenstone: /* Why Nobles Exist: */ new section

== Nobles affected by Reclaiming? ==

My current fortress is a reclaimed one, due to a fire that got into one of my guardtowers' food storage. In the old fortress, I had managed to get a Baron, who was soon skipping right up to Duke and Incoming king after a couple of immigrants. Well, after reclaiming, I proceeded as normal, except, even though my value is still incredibly high from the fortress (1 million+ created wealth, and 400k exported, now), I recieved a count within it's specified area of requirement, but not the Baron before. Even still, My Count does not seem to be upgrading to Duke anytime soon, seeing as I have 188 dwarves, now. Anyone have any ideas, now? [[User:Jwguy|Jwguy]] 12:56, 6 June 2009 (UTC)

== Noble Additions and Requirements ==

Added the dungeon keeper noble. He just showed up at my fort in year 1053. --[[Idles]]

I'm "fixing" the change, "16:59, 31 October 2007 Lightning4 (Talk | contribs) (1,934 bytes) (→Appointments - Isn't called bookkeeper, at least when the fortress is new.)", because in my forts it IS called bookkeeper when the fortress starts. Other edits have backed me up, suspect editor was confused--Please discuss this here? --[[User:Sowelu|Sowelu]] 15:09, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

:I apologize, I was indeed incorrect. You do start with a Bookkeeper, which in very short order can be upgraded to a Treasurer. Unsure of requirements, possibly only requires 20 dwarves like the sheriff. My fortress has one and I haven't even done anything besides changed who had bookkeeping and set it to higher priority (did not build study yet). That's probably what got me confused since the bookkeeper upgrades very quickly. [[User:Lightning4|Lightning4]] 18:11, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

::Yeah, 20 dwarves sounds accurate enough to put in there. He didn't turn when I had only 17. --[[User:Sowelu|Sowelu]] 18:14, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

"Your original expedition leader will be the fourth dwarf down in the starting screen(the one in the middle)." This does not seem to hold true; I have a newly-developed habit of making the last dwarf on the screen (used to be my designated hauler-peasant) into the administrator, with all the social skills for filling the four starter noble roles. He gets auto-assigned to all four administrative positions; I'm thinking that instead of being fixed or random, the starting assignment is based on social skills. --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 00:29, 1 November 2007 (EDT)

I had a Philosopher show up last night. I'm unsure of the requirement to get him; the only really notable thing that had happened was I got over 100 dwarves. I'm adding him to the list of Nobles, though, since I can confirm he still exists in the new version. I also divided the page structure between Appointed and Immigrant nobles, since the current header was misleading (Dungeon Master and Philosopher cannot be appointed). --[[User:Zurai|Zurai]] 20:55, 10 November 2007 (EST)

I had the king show up tonight. "The King arrives, dressed as a peasant." I have no idea what the requirements were. I missed the 1051 and 1052 dwarf caravans due to prolonged sieges, and had no immigrants those years. 1053 I had the caravan; a season later a wave of immigration brought my total dwarves up to 37. In the spring the king arrived, along with enough others to bring the population to 63. At that time I was notified that the Captain of the Guard position was available. Only thing I can think is that I hit adamantine during the siege years, and mistakenly built a number of ridiculously valuable adamantine objects. (Door, Coffin, etc.) This has raised my fortress value to 1.3 million. Is 1 million value perhaps the trigger? I have no coins, and no nobles other than the starting 4 positions. I did not appoint a sheriff. [[User:Doctorlucky|Doctorlucky]] 04:15, 15 November 2007 (EST)
:In the last version, hitting adamantine without proper requirement for the king triggered the reaction of having the king arrive dressed as a paysant. Maybe it's the same here. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 04:20, 15 November 2007 (EST)
== What determines expedition leader? ==

There are a number of situations to test out:
* No social skills on any dwarves
** ''Probably random, possibly based on the Dwarf's thoughts and preferences''
* Majority of social skills on one dwarf (various positions in start order)
** ''Test case 1: only one dwarf has social skills - gives that dwarf as leader and all positions''
* Social skills spread between multiple dwarves
** Is there any weight on which skill determines the leader?
--[[User:Shagie|Shagie]] 01:25, 1 November 2007 (EDT)

:Is the first point certain? In my current fortress, I didn't assign any social skills to any dwarf, and I'm pretty certain that the dwarf that ended up expedition leader was the seventh in the list. --[[User:Peristarkawan|Peristarkawan]] 02:28, 2 November 2007 (EDT)
::In my current fort I assigned no social skills and the first dwarf in the list, one of my miners, is the expedition leader. --[[User:Moller|Moller]] 02:40, 2 November 2007 (EDT)
:::Might be randomised then, I started three new fortresses for the test and each time it was the same so I made an assumption. Obviously this isn't the case can you two check what thoughts/prefs you have for those so we can look for some leadership criteria. --[[User:Shades|Shades]] 08:10, 2 November 2007 (EDT)
::::It's almost always been the first dwarf for me (assuming no one had leadership skills), but I could have sworn one time it assigned someone else. Maybe it defaults to the first dwarf on the list but can sometimes choose someone else under certain conditions. [[User:Rpb|Rpb]] 22:29, 10 November 2007 (EST)
:::::Perhaps the first dwarf didn't get it because of negative preferences? Some dwarves have a line in their thoughts/prefs that reads something like "X prefers to let others take leadership roles". [[User:Tocky|Tocky]] 11:04, 11 November 2007 (EST)

==Room requirements==
Maybe something about the nobles requiring better rooms and how to build them? --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 15:15, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:Found it in [[room]]s, adding a link. --[[User:Mizipzor|Mizipzor]] 15:34, 4 November 2007 (EST)

== Not 100? ==

I just received migrants. My population went from 76 to 100, and my settlement went from a village to a town. No nobles arrived with the migrants. [[User:Geekwad|Geekwad]] 17:14, 18 November 2007 (EST)
:Still a town at 108
:Another wave, and we're a city at 111 (migrants still incoming)
::My population went from 101 to 126 in one wave. A Baroness arrived at the same time and turned my settlement into a Barony. Shortly afterwards, my settlement turned into a County (125+ dwarves?). Then Baroness upgraded into a Countess. Baron consort upgraded to a Count Consort.--[[User:Slumber|Slumber]] 16:49, 19 November 2007 (EST)
::Next immigration wave, my pop hit 138. Nothing happens. Then next immigration wave, my pop hits 141, the Countess upgrades to Duchess and the Count Consort upgrades to Duke Consort. Also, "Incoming King" is the top line on the Nobles screen. When you select it, it shows you what you need to achieve in terms of 1. architecture value (15000) 2. road value (5000) and 3. offerings value. (5000). I'm not sure what criteria triggers the King as it happened at the same time as my Duchess. I did just hit 200k exported wealth. Conincedence? --[[User:Slumber|Slumber]] 10:27, 20 November 2007 (EST)
::Another wave, jumped to 161 pop, and some more nobles, a Duke and his Duke Consort. Now I have both a Duke and Duchess!--[[User:Slumber|Slumber]] 14:06, 20 November 2007 (EST)
:I was made a city and a barony at 110, and promoted to county almost immediately after. No new immigration happened, and I hadn't reached the 120 mark yet. [[User:Rpb|Rpb]] 16:27, 24 November 2007 (EST)
:The last immigration wave brought me from 98 to a total of 124 including baron/consort, tax collector and hammerer. It is now a City and a Barony. I'll watch out if it changes on the first immigrant from the next wave.I currently have over 500k created wealth and 17000 exported.--[[User:Another|Another]] 16:05, 24 November 2007 (EST)
:One child is born and now my total population is 125. Still a City and a Barony.--[[User:Another|Another]] 09:23, 25 November 2007 (EST)
:My fortress was upgraded to County when the caravan left the map and my exported wealth leaped from 17k to 26k. The trigger for the County must be either 20k or 25k exported wealth. --[[User:Another|Another]] 12:47, 25 November 2007 (EST)
::Baron arrived during an immigration wave going from 88 to 112 dwarves, and upgraded to a Count not long after arrival but ''not'' immediately either (perhaps as the population went over 100?). Exported wealth was probably around 50k at the time. Now at 119 (and 80k exported) and not yet a Duke. Looks like there's a combination of factors involved. [[User:Cim|Cim]] 11:10, 14 December 2007 (EST)
:Upgrade of the fortress to Duchy was at exactly 140th dwarf from an immigration wave. "The Incoming King" included. Total created wealth - 950k, total exported - 30k.--[[User:Another|Another]] 16:37, 1 December 2007 (EST)
: My Baron arrived in the immigration wave that took me over 100 (I had peaked at 96 previously) but this was also the season where I crossed the 50,000 threshold on exported wealth. I actually went from 48,000 to 62,000 over the course of the year, and the baron arrived in the Spring, I did have an immigration wave after crossing 50,000 in the fall. Almost immediately after my baron arrived, he was promoted to count. My population is 119. --[[User:Mitchy|Mitchy]] 16:41, 3 January 2008 (EST)
:At exported wealth 45k, my Baron promoted to Count at the 110th immigrant. (Baron arrived in the first immigration wave after getting 80 population, can't remember what exported wealth was then) [[User:Cim|Cim]] 20:12, 5 January 2008 (EST)
:Population at 93 no Baron. Next wave - first person to arrive is a Countess, with this wave population went to 114. (So, had no Baron at all) --[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 23:39, 10 January 2008 (EST)

Verified about 140 limit for Duke. My Wrestler have given birth to a boy, the populationd got to 140, and the next message is about the fortress becoming a capital of Duchy. --[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 00:10, 24 January 2008 (EST)

== Queen As Peasant ==

I had dug out some raw adamantine, not done anything with it, and I got a notification that 'Your ruler has arrived disguised as a peasant.' At the same time, my Dungeon Master arrived. I don't have an announcement in the log about the Queen, but I do about the DM. I'm treating her like it's legit, what's the deal?

:Your ruler has heard of the discovery of adamantine, and hurried to yuor fort to oversee the digging. She turned up "disguised as a peasant" because your fort doesn't meet the regular requirements for attracting the monarch and moving to your site officially would be embarassing (in roleplaying/story terms of course). She's perfectly legit, just wasn't attracted in the "conventional" sense by having the largest, wealthiest fort in the civilisation you belong to.--[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 06:42, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

== Baron mandates "crowns"? ==

I just got a baron, and the first thing he mandates is two crowns. So i type Crown into the jobs/manager list. nothing. So I type crown in dwarf wiki. Nothing. Can anyone help before I have to drop this noble into a pit to keep him from locking up my crafters?
:Info about specific crafts isn't present in the new wiki, but a crown is in fact a "craft" item. [http://archive.dwarffortresswiki.net/index.php/Craftsdwarf%27s_Workshop#Crafts You can see the old wiki info about crafts here]. You'll probably need to set several crafting jobs to get a crown since the item produced by a crafting task is random with several possibilities. --[[User:Janus|Janus]] 00:06, 1 February 2008 (EST)

== Killing nobles ? ==

Is killing nobles dangerous ? (does it stop immigrations or something ?)

Because I've got a Count totally uncontrolable, who can't stop throwing tantrums in the middle of my fortress, which is somewhat tiresome... So, if I just can lock him into his bedroom and let him starve to death, it would be great, but I don't know if it won't cause more problems..

(Also, sorry for my bad english, I'm french)
[[User:Timst|Timst]] 05:40, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

:Killing off your nobles only really has the penalties associated with killing any other dwarf - their friends and family will be upset, and you lose that dwarf's abilities. In the case of nobles a replacement will usually turn up with the next migrant wave, unless your fort no longer meets the requirements for that noble. You can, of course, kill the replacement too - with lesser repercussions as he won't have had time to make any friends yet.--[[User:TangoThree|TangoThree]] 06:38, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

::Ok, thanks :) I was afraid that the death of a count could induct a reaction of the mountainhomes or something like that... If the only reaction will be the one of the countess, it will be ok :) [[User:Timst|Timst]] 07:00, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

:::In the future, killing off a noble will have repercussions, however, so don't depend on that behaviour forever. ;-)
:::''Req291, NOBLE DEATH, (Future): Killing off nobles needs to have serious consequences. Once the counties (see Core28) are in, there could be revolts from the village if the count is popular. Other nobles could have angry relatives. Losing your law enforcement nobles could lead to more tantrums and other acts in large fortresses. Nobles should all be upset by the death of the tax collector. When a noble is buried, other dwarves could be sealed in the tomb.''
:::--[[User:JT|JT]] 15:11, 26 April 2008 (EDT)

::::This doesn't sound like it has much effect on a "kill early, kill often" approach — e.g. preparing their death room immediately upon their arrival, and luring them in via a profile-set lever pull job. The count won't be popular (at least in your fort) if nobody knows him, unless he's popular by reputation or something. Angry relatives? If they show up friendly but ready to tantrum, I draft / lure them into killing rooms; if they're hostile, I deal with them like a siege. Nobles all being upset by the tax collector means nothing if I've killed all the nobles. And it's not like I'm going to make tombs for them, either. Only the law enforcement one looks like an issue.

::::On the other hand, maybe that's the point — you're penalised if you just randomly kill nobles because you don't like them, but you're also allowed to run a "screw the nobility, we're a free communal fortress" game (or have a "kill the entire current regime, we want a revolution" event) so long as you actively enforce it. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 19:02, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

: Another issue that can pop up is killing your Baron/Count/Duke, their spouse will stick around and remain a noble even after the replacement and their spouse has shown up. On one fortress my count had 3 Countess Consorts, one was his wife and the other 2 were leftovers from the previous 2 counts. One Baron happened to be standing under a drawbridge as it came down (don't ask what a drawbridge was doing in his room, lets just say he wasn't going to get that rock crystal item he wanted) and his widow was promoted to Countess Consort when the new Count showed up to replace him a few seasons later. That Count was tending a farm when a squad of gobs beat the living tar out of him and his widow remained a Countess Consort even after the third noble arrived to replace the dead Count. They all still make demands/mandates and still require rooms/tombs and all that as before. [[User:Lando242|Lando242]] 20:55, 18 January 2009 (EST)

== Sorting nobles ==
I find it rather silly to have the Expedition leader in the ''Appointed'' section just to be immediately told (s)he can not be appointed. I'm too newbie in terms of nobles to draft sections that make sense, but I feel this needs changing.[[User:Aykavil|Aykavil]] 08:23, 7 July 2008 (EDT)

== Selling Nobles ==
<tt>╔═╦═╗</tt> Unlock doors, assign lever to noble, order lever pulled. 
<tt>║ò┼^┼</tt> Wait for noble to stand on cage trap, lock both doors. 
<tt>╚═╩═╝</tt> Wait for noble to fall asleep, sell caged noble to elves. 
:Sorry for the crude drawing. My wiki format skills are weak. [[User:Rkyeun|Rkyeun]] 14:36, 20 September 2008 (EDT)

:Eh... except for the small known bug where trying to haul an occupied cage to the trading depot results in whatever is caged being freed and the empty cage being brought in. But once they fix that bug, maybe. -[[User:Fuzzy|Fuzzy]] 16:30, 20 September 2008 (EDT)

::I've been trying to sell my dwarves for ages, as a 'clean' approach to dealing with nobles and unwanted immigration. Sadly, they always seem to die of thirst first. If I let them out just once to drink, they die of hunger. Maybe if I let them out twice... but that's a lot of effort. Better to just let them die, unless they're very popular or something. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 19:06, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

== Category? ==

I would do this myself if I knew how, but perhaps someone should make a noble category, with all the noble related articles (Unfortunate accident, mandate, types of nobles, etc) in it. I think it would be useful. [[User:Spoggerific|Spoggerific]] 20:53, 10 August 2008 (EDT)

==Nobles Working==

Actually, nobles not only gather harvest if you put all dwarves harvest on, but they also help demolishing constructed walls.=--[[User:Stinhad Limarezum|Stinhad Limarezum]] 00:53, 23 October 2008 (EDT)

:Thanks, I'll add that to [[labor]].--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 03:16, 23 October 2008 (EDT)

==Arrival Requirements Verified==
Ok, I just had the Baroness, Hammerer, and Tax Collector arrive simultaneously with no other dwarves. I'm playing with a population cap of 50, and births (plus overflow of last immigration wave) has finally taken me up to exactly 80 dwarves. Despite the population cap, the Baroness, Tax Collector, and Hammerer arrived by themselves.

<s>Note that the Baroness Consort has not arrived, presumably because he takes the place of a normal dwarf during the immigration wave and can't be generated in violation of the population cap (whereas the other three can).</s> nevermind, he just showed up.

I should also note that I earlier had the King arrive as a peasant by himself despite being at the population cap. He also brought no consort nor advisor (although I've never had him arrive as a peasant before, so I don't know if that's normal).

I have not seen a philosopher as of yet.

As my fortress wealth is past 8 million at this point, I think its safe to say I can rule that out as a cause (having seen them at much lower wealth in default pop cap games).

--[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 19:30, 7 December 2008 (EST)

:I had the usual five nobles show up once in an immigration wave that took me over 80 dwarves, and promptly killed them, along with most of the immigrants. I subsequently set my population max to 50. My current population (minus nobles) is 69, yet those same nobles continue to show up every few seasons, suggesting that once you become a barony (80 pop, initial baron/ess arrival), they'll continue to show up again, regardless of your current status. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 19:10, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

==Noble demands==

I currently have a Baroness demanding "item in Dining Room". Any idea what could satisfy this? I tried a bismuth bronze statue, no luck. [[User:JubalHarshaw|JubalHarshaw]] 00:24, 5 January 2009 (EST)

: This is a bug. Check # 000491 @ http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/dev_bugs.html --[[User:Sinergistic|Sinergistic]] 00:47, 5 January 2009 (EST)

==Pretentious Arrangements==

Thoughts about a lesser's pretentious <whatever> arrangements seem to be a common source of noble unhappiness. (this is especially annoying for me as my mayor has an artifact in her bedroom raising it to Royal and my queen has no list of likes and dislikes, so I can't make her happy just by having the right booze) it would be interesting to know what exactly causes the difference between "upset" and "shattered", how to avoid it, and good ways to mitigate it's effects. I might have to do some research on my old fort to check this myself. --[[User:Pyrite|Pyrite]] 13:58, 6 January 2009 (EST)

:Well, I suspect that the difference is related to the difference in room value, although I suppose that's stating the obvious. Another obvious solution would be to move the artefact into the higher-ranked Noble's room, assuming that's possible. Otherwise, I suppose the simplest (if not the easiest) way to mitigate its effects is to add as much value as possible to the Queen's room. As well as furniture, you can get surprising results with smoothings, engravings, and building an expensive floor over the engraved one if you have no qualms about exploiting such strangeness.--[[User:Quil|Quil]] 18:07, 6 January 2009 (EST)
::I can confirm it's the difference between relative worth. I kept getting these annoying messages in my count + consort until I stuffed a platinum statue in their rooms. Obviously, this increased the worth of the room by 12K, easily dominating the 'lesser' quarters.

::It does require that there be a significant difference; having them at roughly equal worth will cause unhappy thoughts, which was my problem in my most recent fortress. I just housed all my nobles in the same residential stack as everyone else, adding extra room additions off the main design for offices, dining rooms, etc. The Count's room was a LITTLE better as his walls happened to be ore-bearing, but it wasn't enough to please him, hence the statue.--[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 10:04, 7 January 2009 (EST)
:::Alright, I've put the artefact cabinet back in my mayor's room, and now will proceed to test this principle by making the Queen's rooms incredibly nice. I'm going to start by replacing all her furniture with gold and platinum, and move up from there.--[[User:Pyrite|Pyrite]] 15:49, 7 January 2009 (EST)
::::You may have a long way to go. Artifact furniture can easily be 50 or 60K, whereas the most expensive single piece of furniture I've ever been able to produce is a masterwork platinum statue, which is 12K. --[[User:ThunderClaw|ThunderClaw]] 16:36, 7 January 2009 (EST)

::::While you can't order artifacts dumped, you can apparently order them forbidden. So maybe you could forbid it and then move the creator's quarters elsewhere, leaving the original one vacant. Or maybe you could make them temporary quarters elsewhere, wait for them to move the artifact, then forbid it and move them back. — [[User:Wisq|Wisq]] ([[User talk:Wisq|talk]]) 19:22, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

== Noble upgrade size. ==

I have a count still event though I have 148 dwarves. Could it be dependant on more than just the 140, or is it different now? [[User:PierreMonteux|PierreMonteux]] 21:55, 11 February 2009 (EST)

: I'm at 188 dwarves still with a count not a duke. Could there be a dependancy on metal jobs? Other than melting down the goblin metal, I don't have any metal jobs going. [[User:PierreMonteux|PierreMonteux]] 10:47, 14 February 2009 (EST)

I just had a peasant give birth to a baby. This put my population at 110, and I immediately got a message that my fortress had been made into a county. So, I will remove the "verify" tags from the count/count consort promotion info.--[[User:Scrotch|Scrotch]] 18:59, 27 May 2009 (UTC)

::I'm certain that exports are a requirement. Remember that only wealth you have created can count as exports, trading goblin items won't raise the number. If you can't offer it, it doesn't count. I had a fortress with 140+ dwarves that jumped up to a barony from nothing when I started exporting. --[[User:Sensei|Sensei: Last seen somewhere in the Basic Jungle of Terror]] 20:03, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

== Failure to comply ==

I'm surprised this hasn't come up yet, but what happens if you don't give a noble the room he/she requires? I know they get unhappy thoughts, but is that all? Will they punish anyone? Or just start throwing tantrums? Next useless noble I get is sleeping in the barracks. On the floor.
:Unhappy thoughts? I don't think there is any repercusions. --[[User:Zchris13|Zchris13]] 16:26, 12 May 2009 (UTC)
::Unhappy nobles means more mandates, more demands and harsher sentences. --[[User:Sensei|Sensei: Last seen somewhere in the Basic Jungle of Terror]] 20:04, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

I just read this and checked my noble's happiness levels and justice levels, and even though they all seem ecstatic lately I have someone who's being jailed for 64 days, which I think is pretty extreme. I have been fulfilling hardly any of their mandates though, so perhaps jail time is related more to mandates than happiness?[[User:Gnavin|Gnavin]] 14:29, 29 July 2009 (UTC)

== Why Nobles Exist: ==

Nobles exist because Dwarven government is a feudal system; the fortress is just a semi-autonomous local government which must still answer to the King, and here's why:
::Long ago in the Age of Myth, the King's ancestor was legendary +5 in every military skill and took control of everything, killing all who resisted. His descendants are now <s>fat, lazy, whoremongering, good for nothing slobs</s> not as <s>cool</s> personally strong as he was, but they still technically own everything, including "your" fortress. The expedition that went to "colonize the King's land" did so with his permission, <s>usually given while drunk</s>. When your fortress becomes large enough that it can no longer <s>avoid notice</s> govern itself "properly", the King sends one of his <s>drinking mates</s> representatives to <s>screw up</s> "manage" the fortress. The nobles hold the authority of the King, and so there every <s>ridiculous</s> <s>stupid</s> <s>impossible</s> "reasonable" mandate "MUST" be obeyed. --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 12:37 17 August, 2009 (EST)

40d:Captured live fish

2009-08-16T23:15:15Z

Arkenstone: Changed "reclaimed" to "deconstructed"

'''A captured live fish''' is caught using the "capture live fish" command given at a [[fishery]]. A [[dwarf]] with the [[fishing]] labor will then attempt to catch a [[fish]] live using an available [[animal trap]]. The fish will then be placed into an available [[Aquarium|aquarium]]. Unlike normal fishing, which will be done at any suitable location, the "capture live fish" command will '''only''' capture fish from an explicitly designated [[activity zone#Fishing|fishing zone]].

Captured [[turtle]]s and [[moghopper]]s can then be used as [[pet]]s. However, a captured [[moghopper]] is also used to make five units of [[mog juice]] using the [[fishery]]'s "extract from live fish" command as well as being a [[pet]] candidate. This [[extract]] can now be used for [[cooking]] and [[trading]].{{v|0.28.181.40d}}

Note: A constructed [[animal trap|trap]] can not be used unless it is deconstructed. ({{k|q}}->{{k|x}}).

{{Expand Topic}}
[[Category:animals]]

40d Talk:Drunk

2009-08-16T17:34:47Z

Arkenstone: /* Absence of Drunks */

Ever since 0.28.181.39e was released this page has been outdated. You don't find as many drunks volunteering to go with you on adventuers as you do actual warriors now. The article should refer to this change as I don't know of any other that addresses this change. --[[User:Richards|Richards]] 21:46, 5 August 2008 (EDT)

== Absence of Drunks ==

Actually, I don't find ANY. Apparently, the IMMODERATION personality trait determines whether or not someone is a drunk, and Toady appears to have removed all the human personality traits. See the Game Object Data for [[Humans]] to see for yourself. --[[User:Protera|Protera]] 00:57, 10 September 2008 (EDT)
:I can't find any drunks either. They seem to be a dying breed in Human towns. Anyone know of a way to find more drunks? --[[User:Demaster72|Demaster72]] 22:32, 15 April 2009 (UTC)
::If you add the [PERSONALITY:IMMODERATION:100:100:100] tag to a race, they should end up with a large amount of drunks. --[[User:i2amroy|i2amroy]] 20:33, 15 April 2009 (PST)

40d Talk:Giant cave spider

2009-08-13T20:46:57Z

Arkenstone: /* Giant Spider Silk */

==Anecdotes on article page==
THEY ARE EVIL. One killed 2 of my proficient miners on its own! It has a breath attack that shoots webs and it rips off people limbs! Dont attack them if you know whats good for you! --[[User:Diabl0658]]
:What is this? I did not write this in the comments! [[User:Diabl0658|Diabl0658]] 22:23, 31 October 2007 (EDT)
::The article page was cleaned up - less personal (the 'my' aspect of it - that only applies to ''your'' (Diabl0658's) experience and not necessarily that of any future editor). JT copied the anecdote in the article to the talk page and attributed it to you. (Side consideration sub pages of /anecdote for this type of thing?) --[[User:Shagie|Shagie]] 22:44, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

::What Shagie said. I figure the articles themselves should be left for "fact" (you can inject subtle humour or hearsay if it's between the lines), while any personal experiences or questions can be mentioned on the Talk pages. (I dunno if an anecdotal page is necessary. Do we really need so many more stub pages?) That's the general idea on Wikipedia, anyway... --[[User:JT|JT]] 23:13, 31 October 2007 (EDT)

::: The sub page idea could be a way of clearly making a place for anecdotes that would otherwise show up in article pages or talk pages (where talk pages would (in theory) be more about the factual/design content of the articles themselves. One of the wikis I am involved with is particularly prone to vandalism - the funny vandalism they move off to a sub page. This way, its still there as a record but isn't hampering discussion or reading the article itself. Realize I'm not calling anecdotes vandalism, but rather suggesting a similar way that they can be put somewhere so they don't hamper discussion or the article. --[[User:Shagie|Shagie]] 23:25, 31 October 2007 (EDT)
==Categories?==
Should this article not be under the "creatures" section? --[[User:Talith|Talith]]
==Phantom vs GC spiders==
I've noticed a few references to "phantom spiders" in material lists and such. Is it possible that a phantom spider is in fact what created that hellishly large web in the picture, or is it known that that was a regular giant cave spider? --[[User:AlBorland|AlBorland]]

:Nope, that's a bona fide giant cave spider. You can see it towards the centre of the web. Phantom spiders are vermin-sized critters which appear only on evil maps. --[[User:JT|JT]] 01:06, 6 November 2007 (EST)

You should probably upload that web picture to the wiki rather than an external host. -[[User:EarthquakeDamage|EarthquakeDamage]] 02:18, 10 November 2007 (EST)

== The Spidernator ==

Added a line half intended to bring a chuckle to readers, though well with intent of warning of one of their greatest threats that wasn't previously mentioned; they can't be stunned or incapacitated in any way, due to having such tokens as [NOPAIN] and [NOSTUN], along with several other immunities. I modified the "quote" a bit so that it more accurately fits the description for more practical purposes. --[[Hesitris|Hesitris]] 21:53 EST, 15 November 2007

== Giant Spider Silk ==

Sure, they can poison you and web you up and eat you later. (Attercob! Attercob!) But don't their webs make the loveliest high-value [[silk]] shirts and cloaks? --[[User:Jellyfishgreen|Jellyfishgreen]] 11:11, 1 October 2008 (EDT)
: I understand they can be tamed by a [[Dungeon Master]]; does anyone know if they will still produce silk for the loom if tame? Is the webbing they spray at attacking enemies collectible for the loom? --[[User:Jellyfishgreen|Jellyfishgreen]] 10:08, 14 January 2009 (EST)
::To catch it, you would probably need a ton of cage traps and AT LEAST half a dozen recruits for bait (the faster the better). Beware: 'bait' has 90% fatality rate, and you may cause a tantrum spiral. Use a wave of immigrants you don't want for this (insane) task. --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 04:47, 13 August 2009 (EST)

== Visible invisible web ==

I've seen giant cave spider silk webs in my pit in my most recent fort (haven't bothered to touch them yet, haha). Could it be that new pieces of web are visible from creation point? --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 17:30, 4 November 2008 (EST)

== Escaping a web ==

Could someone who knows include information in this article regarding whether a dwarf can escape a web or be freed from one?
When my dwarf gets stuck in a web he invariably gets killed...--[[User:Jpwrunyan|Jpwrunyan]] 00:30, 3 February 2009 (EST)
:Well, when the spider cannot reach entangled dwarf, the paralysis wears away pretty quickly.--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 01:40, 3 February 2009 (EST)
::Thanks, I think I understand now. The web just "paralyzes" the dwarf for an amount of time after which he is able to move again and get stuck again.--[[User:Jpwrunyan|Jpwrunyan]] 02:23, 4 February 2009 (EST)

== Stray Giant Cave Spider (tame) bleeds to death ==

Anyone have this problem? I've a tame giant cave spider that just keeps randomly dying while staying in my meeting hall. It was perfectly healthy. I assume that the creature is somehow "freezing" to death, even though I'm on a warm map? I come to this conclusion because of its homeotherm:10040 and no layering, perhaps, and I'm thinking that it is too hot for the creature. -[[User:Belathus|Belathus]] 07:17, 12 April 2009 (UTC)

:Upon further review, I think a friendly trade caravan is killing it. Either way, it is bothersome. -[[User:Belathus|Belathus]] 07:52, 12 April 2009 (UTC)

== Wall climbing abilities? ==
I was in the middle of constructing my spider moat (it involves a sealed of room with a cow(and a trap in front of it), the other room contains the soon-to-be-captured GCS, my plan was to have the not tame GCS kill everything in my moat and then get re-caught but they i realized "couldn't it simply climb out?" How does GCS's move around in their almost cliff-like pits and chasms? do they have some kind of wall climb abilities? - [[User:Sava2004|Sava2004]] 20:04, 30 May 2009 (EST)

:As far as I know, there are no creatures that can climb walls. I've never seen a GCS change z-levels in a pit or chasm unless they were at the surface, where there were ramps. --[[User:Elvang|Elvang]] 10:11, 31 May 2009 (UTC)

40d Talk:Anvil

2009-08-12T14:42:09Z

Arkenstone: /* Fire Safe Anvil? */

== Cleaning the page ==
I've made some cleanup alterations, both to the article and this discussion page. Hope you all don't mind. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 23:21, 22 February 2008 (EST)

== Bars needed to make ==
I've noticed this page doesn't list how many bars are required to make an anvil. Anyone who knows offhand? Seems like it'd be useful info. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 17:37, 22 February 2008 (EST)
:3. --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 18:43, 22 February 2008 (EST)
::Added this to the page. --[[User:Myroc|Myroc]] 16:25, 31 January 2009 (EST)

== Getting an anvil from the caravan ==
So is it possible to easily procure an anvil within the first 1-2 years? because if it is, then I'm going to ditch it on the embark screen and spend those 1000pts on turtles.
:Thats a lot of turtles. Get dogs instead. Imagine a swarm of pooches descending on a goblin fortress, taking no prisoners, and leaving no goblin child behind! --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 15:33, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:In my experience the first dwarven caravan brings one. However they will charge you dearly for it (~1000$), moreso if the anvil is steel (~3000$). Prices are from memory. [[User:Anonymousphrase|Anonymousphrase]] 15:51, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:: The caravan has a high chance of bringing one, it is not certain. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 09:27, 8 November 2007 (EST)
:::Dearly yes, but a well made stack of food will cover the cost of a steel one so it's not hard to buy out the caravan. I had one caravan turn up with two steel anvils and a stack of plump helmet (5). Seems that was all they could carry :( --10:21, 8 November 2007 (EST)
::::True, but that does take some planning. I never got enough cash (what is the correct dwarven word, the value word...) to buy the anvil in the first year, but I'm stupid and focus on creating goblets, and making enough beds etc for my dwarfs. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 13:57, 8 November 2007 (EST)
:::::Cash in the first year is easy. I often find myself trading mechanisms because they're relatively high value/item (fewer hauling jobs to the depot), and if you're buying an anvil you're taking a lot of weight off their wagon. Its not like you didn't bring a mechanic... Barring that, it is possible to make enough cheap stone trinkets to buy everything you really want off the caravan, assuming you don't mind carting a couple hundred trinkets to the depot. You had to eat all that stone somehow, right? I've also never seen a caravan without an anvil in the first year, assuming the wagons could get to me. (And heck, it generally takes me to the second year to have enough ready access to fuel to make it worth running a metalsmith anyway, barring nearby known magma) --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 05:28, 22 April 2008 (EDT)

I'd definitely been left high and dry by the first dwarven caravan before. Took me three long years before I was finally able to get my hands on an anvil!—Preceding [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment added by [[User:DaveLawson|DaveLawson]] ([[User talk:DaveLawson|talk]]•[[Special:Contributions/DaveLawson|contribs]]) {{{2|}}}
:I second that statement, I've regularly not seen an anvil show up with the first dwarven caravan. --[[User:Sentack|Sentack]] 11:00, 28 February 2008 (EST)

== Odd anvil materials ==
I have created a zinc anvil (value 200). Is this a bug?
::Anvil (100) made of zinc (x2) with no quality modifier (x1). 100 x2 x1 => 200. Looks right to me. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:29, 14 February 2008 (EST)
::Oh! Wait a minute. You aren't supposed to be able to make anvils out of zinc. What version are you using? I remember there was a bug where dwarves would use a different metal than the one assigned in the task, letting even pig iron be used to make stuff. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:31, 14 February 2008 (EST)
:::Heh, I'd like to have an archive of that version; I want a bismuth anvil. XD --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 11:55, 15 February 2008 (EST)
:::Pig iron stuff... I once had noble mandating pig iron items... He soon got locked in his room for such a crime against dwarvenkind. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 07:56, 22 April 2008 (EDT)
::::Remember that anvils can be made of anything if created by a moody dwarf! --[[User:Termitehead|Termitehead]] 09:09, 6 May 2008 (CST)
:::::pig iron bars count, steel bars might, so basically he wants you to make steel....--[[User:Eerr|Eerr]] 16:26, 8 August 2008 (EDT)

== Anvil Quality and/or Material Affecting Final Product? ==

Just to make a note, http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=23783.0 gives anecdotal evidence that the anvil material may affect the quality of items made. In summary, it seems from that post that items of 'higher' material than the anvil material has reduced quality chances (and by 'higher', I would guess the weapon/armor material modifiers). The adamantine scenario is in that post, but the implication is that for a steel industry, a steel anvil would be a good idea. Obviously, more testing is needed, and this might just be drivel. [[User:Blackcat|Blackcat]] 07:19, 26 August 2008 (EDT)

== Fire Safe Anvil? ==

i purchased an iron anvil from the caravan, and when i attempt to construct a metalsmith's forge, it says i need a fire-safe anvil. --[[User:Plstcflsh|Plstcflsh]] 00:55, 15 October 2008 (EDT)

:If you've only just bought it, chances are that the anvil is tasked ("[TSK]") with being taken to a suitable stockpile. Items that have been assigned a task, even hauling, are unavailable for any other purpose. If this is the case, just wait for the anvil to be stockpiled, at which point it will become available, and then build your forge. --[[User:Raumkraut|Raumkraut]] 02:02, 15 October 2008 (EDT)
::Long past helping OP but the alternative is, {{k|f}}orbid the item you need, then immediately re-designate the build job - forbidding things cancels any hauling jobs against them.[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 16:12, 18 July 2009 (UTC)

:::Whatever the case may be, you just invalidated the 'Wooden Anvil' theory: wood isn't fire-safe.
::::Besides, you need a metal axe to cut down trees ;) --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 13:32, 11 August 2009
:::::Naw, I think you might get lucky and have an Elf bring you a wooden axe, and as it's known Elves have mystical ways of getting the wood off of trees that doesn't harm it. [[User:Shardok|Shardok]] 19:58, 11 August 2009 (UTC)
::::::But what about the fire-safe requirement? I suppose that a wooden pick could be made first but then you still need charcoal... maybe using a bauxite anvil on magma? --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 10:42, 12 August 2009 (EST)

== Theory for first anvil ==

Maybe it was a pratchett thing? but I remember reading in some fantasy/comedy novel that the first anvil, was all there was in the beginning and the creator used it in creating the world.

Although, diskworld is on the back of a turtle so that might not be the case. But the dwarves involved were very pratchett-ish.
[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 01:15, 22 July 2009 (UTC)

40d:Defense guide

2009-08-12T13:19:19Z

Arkenstone: /* Physical layout */ Added: "However, with some good planning or the aid of a constructed wall, 3-wide doors are possible."

In Dwarf Fortress, you will often find yourself beset by hostile creatures looking to murder your dwarves or take their treasures. Protecting your fortress from intruders is a challenging task and a broad, complex topic. A wide variety of [[creature]]s can threaten your dwarves, and there is no one approach or philosophy that perfectly addresses every possibility. Fortress layout, military organization and training, traps and more, all contribute to the overall "defense" and survivability of your fortress and the dwarves that live and work both within there and in the world around it, and likewise no one article can include every last detail. This guide will pull from many other articles, but will prefer to refer to those rather than re-post information that is already found (and better placed) there.

There are three important things to consider when planning the defenses for your fortress. First, you must protect the fortress itself - the buildings, the hallways, the dwarves within it. But second, protecting the dwarves outside and topside as they go about their work is also important. These two goals can often be rather divergent, as your dwarves may need to wander the open countryside to collect herbs, cut trees, hunt, fish, and while outside the bounds of your fortress they can find themselves quite vulnerable. 
Lastly, there is game style - you want the game to be "fun" for you, and with some strategies it's quite possible to defend yourself into complete boredom, or just go down a road that is not attractive style-wise. While this article cannot tell you how to have fun, it will comment on this when appropriate, and you should keep it in mind as well.



'''Note''' - There is not room in this article to expand adequately on every sub-topic - ''please'' see specific articles for a ''complete'' discussion as desired.

==General guidelines==

While admitting that "Rules are made to be broken", there are some general recommendations that have a proven value in defending a fortress:

* '''Minimize fortress entrances:''' Have a strong and clear distinction between inside and outside. This usually corresponds to underground and surface, but not always - you can have a complete medieval-style castle complex on the surface. But each point of entry should be hardened against attack. Don't make more entrances than really necessary. If there is a useless or redundant opening, seal it off, one way or another. (Some creatures can destroy doors and drawbridges if they can reach them.)

* '''Concentric circles:''' Think redundancy - one wall may not be enough. With the existence of door-destroying and bow-wielding attackers, double or multiple hard barriers between the inside and the outside is essential to fend off the worst assaults, and if they get inside one barrier it's nice to have another behind that. Sometimes captives will escape their [[cage]]s ''inside'' your fortress. The choke points between the circles are where you build traps and doors, and station troops.

* '''Assume the worst:''' Build up your defenses ''before'' the enemy shows up - like right now! Plan on being [[siege]]d by scores of [[goblin]] archers, door-breaking [[troll]]s, invisible [[kobold]] master thieves, dive-bombing [[giant eagle]]s, flame-breathing [[fire imp]]s, angry [[elephants]], and a [[bronze colossus]] - ''all at once''. Hopefully, you will never have to face that kind of threat, but being ready for anything is the best bet, and, more realistically, when things go wrong (and with dwarfs, they will, just believe it) you will have a buffer of defense to fall back on.

==Threats==
Danger comes in a variety of forms in Dwarf Fortress. Understanding the diverse threats is the first step to keeping your dwarves alive.

:*'''Wild animals'''
::Creatures vary in threat and habits. Some [[animal]]s are quite dangerous, but most are easily excluded by the humble [[door]] or [[hatch]], even if it's not [[forbidden]]. Some few are able to destroy doors and hatches, statues and other [[building]]s, and some are thieves (see below), or will eat your food (such as [[Grizzly_bear|bear]]s). A lone animal, even a clear predator, will usually flee from a stronger force, but some [[undead]] and evil creatures can be blindly aggressive. Combat is random, and any animal can kill any dwarf - and vice versa.

::Wild animals can appear from the topside, but also from an [[underground river]] or [[underground pool|pool]] that you find by mining into it. In evil or savage [[surroundings]], the creatures can be both much tougher and more aggressive.

:*'''Thieves & child snatchers'''
::Many creatures are "thieves" in the general sense, and offer their own potential headaches - a [[raccoon]] or small tribe of [[rhesus macaque]] or [[mandrill]] monkeys can enter an unsecured area unannounced, grabbing items of value and running, and it doesn't matter how many you kill if one or three make off with some prized possessions. But a creature with a listed ( {{k|u}} ) [[profession]] of [[Thief]] has a few additional nasty surprises, namely being invisible until spotted by your dwarves or [[domestic animal]]s, being able to bypass locked or forbidden doors, being armed with a real weapon, and some imperfect ability to avoid triggering traps (though some seem better at it than others). [[Kobold]]s and [[goblin]]s are individually more dangerous than animals, but when spotted there's a special [[alert]] message, either "'''Protect the hoard!'''" or "'''Protect the children!'''", as appropriate.

:*'''Ambushes'''
::An [[ambush]] is a small number of enemies (less than ten) that are invisible until spotted, but are easier to spot than thieves. The alert message is "'''An ambush! Curse them!'''" They skulk around the outside of your fortress, unseen until they strike, looking for wandering dwarves or caravans entering or leaving. They will often flee off the map if challenged.

:*'''Siege'''
::A [[siege]] is a large number of armed and organized attackers that are announced as soon as they appear on the map. The alert message is "A vile force of darkness has arrived!" While siegers are on the map, the word "SIEGE" appears in the top corners of the screen. Siegers are organized into a number of squads, each squad having a different weapon choice. Some sieges bring dangerous creatures to aid the armed attackers. If you are at [[war]] with a civilization, expect annual sieges at least.

:*'''Enemy archers'''
::Attackers with [[bow]]s or [[crossbow]]s are worth separate mention as they are much, ''much'' more threatening than those with melee weapons. Out-shooting them with your marksdwarves is risky, and charging them with melee fighters is even worse. Special techniques are needed to shield your dwarves from the deadly rain of arrows.

:*'''Building destroyers'''
::Some creatures have the [[BUILDINGDESTROYER]] [[creature tokens|tag]] in their [[RAW file]]. This gives them the fearful capacity of tearing apart your doors and bridges and anything else that is built with the {{k|b}} + {{k|C}} keys. (This does ''not'' include walls.)

:*'''Flying animals'''
::Currently, without modding, the only flying creatures are wild animals, like the [[giant eagle]]. Being aware of their presence is often all you can do until they choose to come to you.

:*'''Megabeasts'''
::A [[megabeast]] is a particularly powerful and dangerous creature, such as a [[dragon]] or [[titan]]. Megabeasts appear alone, with an alert message that mentions the beast by name. They often have unique characteristics which present unusual challenges, but are universally dangerous.

:*'''War'''
::Before hitting that {{k|e}} and embarking, {{k|tab}} to civilizations on the pre-embark screen, and see if you are at [[war]] with anyone. If so, things can get hot fast, with more and larger ambushes and sieges, and sooner. This is unusual, but a nasty surprise if you didn't check.

==Elements of a defense==

Dwarf Fortress is very open-ended, and any number of defensive, engineering, fortification and military principles will work in DF that have worked in reality. Combine different elements into the defense you want.

A [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moat moat] with a drawbridge is perhaps the simplest defense known to Dwarvenkind, and not a bad start. The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fortifications Fortifications article on Wikipedia] is also a good source of inspiration. But simply shutting the outside world out and allowing invaders to mill about outside your moat is not always a desirable solution. Enemies will still prevent [[caravan]]s and [[migrant]]s from arriving, will kill [[liaison]]s, and prevent any desired outdoor activities. In addition, Dwarf Fortress players often find it enjoyable to perpetrate mass slaughter of invaders rather than helplessly glare at them from inside their caves.

For this, you will need a more complicated defense than a passive ditch and walls. One common method of defense is to build a walled structure above the entrance to your fortress, stationing Marksdwarves on the second floor overlooking the drawbridge-entrance. Another is to engineer a very long but narrow entrance, at the end of which are [[Ballista | ballista]]e waiting to unload at unfortunate monsters in the field of fire. The variations are infinite.

===Physical layout===
These are the [[wall]]s, [[floor]], [[fortification]]s and so on that create the towers and perimeters of your fortress, acting as physical barriers for your dwarves and against threats. However, they always work in conjunction with the other elements. Creative use of layouts can achieve some quite satisfying results.

For reference, arrow fire is usually about 20 tiles, though stray shots can travel further, and higher elevations do not extend range.

'''Terrain'''
:The lay of the land can be your friend, but the way of the dwarf is to shape the land as needed. Removing slopes can create safe, private terraces and valley walls that prevent all access. Chasms and rivers (not brooks!) create hard barriers, but an open chasm or magma vent can be a source of dangerous creatures. Small hills can serve as vantage points for archers (yours or theirs!), but if carved with stairs leading up from within, they can be quick strategic strongpoints. Narrow valleys can become chokepoints for entrances, where your marksdwarfs can overlook any who come and go. Augmented by constructions below, the terrain becomes your first option for defense.

:Some players take quite a while before initially unpausing the game to look around and think about the terrain, planning their fortress entrance and envisioning basic defenses.

'''Walls'''
:Constructing walls around your entrance is the simplest start, and an essential part of fortress defense, but a wall alone is not a complete defense. Currently, no creature can knock down a wall. Not only does it keep enemies out, your archers can stand on top of the wall and fire down. Keep in mind that this makes them vulnerable to enemy fire. To help protect against that, build [[fortification]]s.

'''Fortifications'''
:[[Fortification]]s are the marksdwarf's friend. They do not allow passage, but allow hand-held missile weapons to pass through, and are often placed on top of walls for tactical advantage. Projectiles have a chance of being blocked, based on the firer's skill and distance to the fortification. There's no chance of the missile being blocked if the firer is adjacent to the fortification, with increasing chances as any distance increases. Keep your marksdwarves close and keep enemies away - if an enemy archer can walk up to your fortifications, now they're adjacent too, and the fortifications will have zero effect. Build fortified firing platforms above ground level and put a nice wide moat between the wall and the enemy. Fortifications have no effect on [[siege engine]]s.

:Like Fortifications, Vertical [[Bars]] and Wall [[Grate | Grates]] will also allow projectiles to fire through them while impeding units' movement, but these constructions provide no defense - the missile fire works both ways equally.. Unlike Fortifications, Bars and Grates may be connected to a [[Lever]], and opened or closed remotely - thus, they are good for forming a portcullis.

'''Doors, and Hatches'''
:[[Door]]s and [[hatch]]es are the most obvious way to keep any enemy out. Door can only be double-wide - not enough to seal up an entrance for a [[wagon]]. However, with some good planning or the aid of a constructed wall, 3-wide doors are possible. You can [[forbid]] doors to keep (most) hostile [[humanoid]] and creatures out, and your dwarves in. Outer doors can be closed against animals, to keep beloved [[pet]]s from wandering into enemy fire. A [[floor hatch]] is just a vertical door.

'''Floodgates'''
:[[Floodgate|Floodgates]], alone or in a line, may be used as removable walls, since they need no support and disappear when "opened" remotely, although using a wide drawbridge will be much more economical in terms of [[Mechanism]]s. (Be aware that Megabeasts can batter down both raised floodgates and drawbridges, and ''any object'' can prevent a floodgate from closing again, even a single, stray crossbow bolt or confused animal.)

:A floodgate can be used just like a door, with two differences: A floodgate can be placed next to another floodgate, unlike a door, which needs to be adjacent to a wall. A floodgate is closed by default, and can only be opened with a lever. Be careful not to trap your dwarves.

'''Moats'''
:Channeling a ditch is a fast and effective defense. The moat doesn't have to be filled with water or magma. Arguably, a dry moat is a better defense. If you want to build an access/escape route for your moat, consider where it leads - the enemy might use that too.

:A moat cuts off access for your dwarves as well, so a retractable- or drawbridge is usually included in the design. But a moat with a non-retractable bridge is still potentially useful: It keeps enemy archers away from your fortifications, and it channels enemies into a narrow and predictable path. A drawbridge without a moat can be a big remote control door, sealing an entrance when it's "up". (This doesn't work with retracting bridges.)

'''Bridges'''
:Bridges come in 3 forms - a permanent construction ''(a [[floor]] or top of a [[wall]] built out over a void)'', a retractable bridge, and a drawbridge. The movable type have a maximum size of 10x10 (including one solid "anchor" line of tiles at the base), and require a lever and two mechanisms to link them to be raised. Permanent bridges can be designed or later modified to include the latter.

:A retractable/raise-able [[bridge]] over a deep trench is a simple and almost air-tight defense - only flying creatures can pass it (''once the bridge is raised''). The moat keeps building-destroyers away from the bridge, and the raised bridge blocks arrow fire for anything behind it. [[Channel]]s may be dug to form ditches, or moats - be aware of what might exist or be planned for the next [[z-level]] down. For defensive purposes they do not need to be filled with anything - as in the middle ages, a dry ditch is more than enough to prevent ground units from approaching (though of course, projectiles may be launched over it with impunity). With a retracting [[Bridge]] over the moat, any units or items on top of the bridge will be dropped into the moat (and, if the moat is filled with water, drown unless they can swim out; if it is filled with magma, they burn to death.) With a drawbridge, they will be flung some tiles in a random direction, possibly being injured when they land.

:Drawbridges can throw creatures a distance (in a random direction) when the bridge is raised, possibly injuring them on landing. Creatures on top of drawbridges will be utterly destroyed if they are flush against wall and have a floor tile above them, as will anything, friend, foe or object, on a floor that is covered when the drawbridge is lowered. This offensive use of drawbridges is known as the [[Dwarven Atom Smasher]].

:A drawbridge works as a door when "raised", sealing the passage it raises against. Consider this, as well as security from [[building destroyer]]s, when choosing the direction a drawbridge is to raise.

:There are three important things to remember: 1) Always build the bridge to raise towards the ''inside'' (so it cannot be destroyed when raised), 2) the [[lever]] has to be pulled by a civilian, not a soldier, and 3) water can freeze solid in cold weather. Also, some rare creatures can cross fluids, even magma. Nothing but flying creatures can get out of a channel.

====Remote control====
:*'''Barriers'''
::If you link a [[lever]] to a door, hatch cover or floodgate, it becomes impossible for your dwarves to open and close it normally. Pulling the lever is the only way to open it. This keeps your dwarves locked in as well as keeping enemies out. (It's unknown if thieves can bypass a closed door once it's linked to a lever or pressure plate.) There is often a frustrating delay between ordering a lever pulled and when a dwarf pulls it, and another shorter one between between pulling the lever and the barrier responding.

::Any item or creature in an open barrier at the moment it tries to close will not only prevent that barrier from closing, but that "close" signal will be lost. Any lever will have to be pulled twice more - to reset to "open", and then to (try to) close again. This is not the case with drawbridges, which crush anything and everything below them when they close.

:*'''Automated barriers & traps'''
::You can automate a barrier or trap by using a [[pressure plate]] instead of a lever, but there are complications there. Only "enemies" or wild creatures will trigger a pressure plate - your dwarves and tame animals can walk on it all day long. Also, no device, trap or barrier, can be constructed in a tile where a pressure plate is - that is the only constructed object that can be there. But with creativity, this can still be a powerful addition to your fortress defense.

===Traps===
{{main|Trap design}}
The most reliable way to stop intruders is lots of [[trap]]s, which, large or small, can become an essential part of your fortification design. A line of traps can wipe out an entire ambush, and inflict significant damage on a siege. A thief's trap avoidance is subject to chance, so the more the better. However, be aware that vast numbers of traps have the potential to take some of the [[fun]] and challenge out of the game - use accordingly.

There are several types of [[trap]]s that a [[mechanic]] can place in a single tile and that target a single creature, but there are larger, more complex traps that only you can design, using [[lever]]s or [[pressure plate]]s. (See [[Trap design]].)

Note that a few creatures and enemies have the "trap avoid" token, potentially negating this defense against them.

===Military===
{{main|Military}}
A [[sparring|trained]], [[weapon|armed]], and [[armor]]ed [[military]] is the only way to bring the fight to the enemy. Building defenses to keep them safe is easy - keeping military ready and in position is the tricky part.

A sufficiently large military can be used as a reactive force to rescue ambushed dwarves and safeguard the passage of caravans thru unknown dangers, or even to sally out and meet a sieging force ''mano a mano''. The disadvantages are many - soldiers must physically move to the conflict zone which may be many screens away from the nearest entrance to your fortress, by which point dwarven lives may have already been lost. And while squad organization may make ordering a large army easier, a squad commander who is sleeping, eating, or drinking prevents his entire squad from responding. At best, an army should be considered supplemental for defending dwarves outside your fortress.See [[military design]] for different options.

===Animals===
Any animal (or dwarf) can act as a sentry - if a hidden enemy comes adjacent to them, that enemy is revealed and an [[announcement]] is generated and the game paused (even by wild animals!). Most animals aren't strong enough to take more than one armoured goblin warrior, and enemies with bows are even worse. The real purpose of guard animals is to spot thieves. Anything will do here, even a kitten will do the job, and some players prefer not to risk a useful animal. ''

Guard animals are a good second line of defense in open entrances after your traps. A wardog can usually tear a thief apart, and will (briefly) delay goblin warriors while you respond. Also, the death of any animal will be [[announcement|announced]] (but the game will not pause), alerting you to the threat if you were not already aware of it. (Note - Some [[tame]]d animals will not fight goblins!)''

Most enemies will go after your animals just as blindly as they attack your dwarves. An expendable chained animal can bait enemies into dangerous passages, even into places unconnected to your fortress. Such an animal chained out on the far side of the map can alert you to ambushes that start there before they threaten your local dwarves.

[[Restrain]] animals in narrow corridors (width 1 or 2), or in matched pairs against the walls of 3-wide corridors, preferably in places where enemy archers can't easily fire at them.

===Siege engines===
{{main|Siege engine}}
Siege engines take some planning to use effectively, and have a range of about 100 tiles compared to a crossbow's 20 or so. Both catapults and ballistae can be very deadly, but both have their drawbacks. The most important factors are 1) they do not have a fast rate of fire, 2) that, unlike [[crossbow]]s, both can only fire at targets on the same [[z-level]], and 3) that they are manned by civilians who will flee if any enemy gets too close. (See [[siege weapon]] for full information and suggestions.)

==Considerations==
Now you know what you might face, and what cards you have in your hand. To that we add complications, things that make defense so much [[fun]]...

===Surface jobs===
There are many times when dwarfs want to work on the surface. [[Wood cutting]], [[gathering plants]], [[hunting]], [[fishing]], [[mining]] exposed [[vein]]s or gems, building defenses or other structures, [[grower|growing]] above-ground [[crop]]s, [[Health care|helping wounded comrades]] or recovering dropped items are only the most likely. Often they are alone and vulnerable to [[creature|wild beasts]] or [[ambush]]es.

You can try to wall in huge areas of the map, possibly with drawbridge gates that can open for Caravans, but the larger the area the vaster the project, the further your dwarves will be from existing defenses, and another example of dwarves working above ground.

Making smaller enclosures in key areas with underground tunnels leading to them can be easier as a first step. Likewise, tunneling to the inside of an exposed vein of ore keeps your miners sealed from the outside until you are prepared to mine the last tiles, possibly after placing doors or walls just inside that tunnel.

Having military stationed or patrolling nearby is another option.

===Water sources===
Access to [[water]] can be vital. Wounded dwarves need water, so if there's not an underground water source you'll lose valuable soldiers to thirst. Try to have a [[well]] or cistern your dwarves can use safely. Remember to keep an extra [[bucket]] or two available.

Some water sources are good locations for [[fishing]], providing food during longer sieges.

===Civilians stay underground===
This setting, in the [[Standing_orders|orders and options]] menu is the easiest way to keep your non-military dwarves out of sight of the enemy. It is far from perfect, as dwarves will do the "entrance dance" - they will attempt to leave the fortress, and only cancel jobs once they reach the surface, as defined by the first "above ground" tiles they hit. Having entries with a "skylight" a distance before the actual exit can solve this - and building walls around the skylight prevents archers from shooting down into it. Doesn't protect against flying creatures, though.

Similarly, keep in mind that the military access to defensive chokepoints should be outside. If you try to set up your defense at the edge of your underground area, ordering your civilian dwarves to "stay inside" has the result that your carefully designed "kill zone" will be chock full of your own dwarves at the critical moment.

It takes a truly airtight fortress to turn this setting off while there are still enemies outside. It's only safe to turn this setting off once the drawbridges and such have sealed off your fortress entirely. If there's even one exit, your dwarves will use it. Try testing this while it's safe: Raise the bridges, just like you would in a siege, and designate some trees for cutting. If there's a way out, your woodcutters will find it.

* '''Screen the entrance.''' Build a simple wall around your entryway. This will keep your dwarves safe from enemy fire while doing the entrance dance.

* '''Seal the entrance.''' Prevents the entry dance, but also blocks your soldiers, which can trap them underground.

* '''Forbid dropped equipment and corpses.''' Mark every item on the battlefield as [[forbidden]]. This includes any items dropped by dead merchants or scuttled wagons. You can have this done automatically for dwarf and enemy corpses and inventories in the '''orders''' {{key|o}} menu at the '''forbid options''' {{key|F}}.

* '''Delete stockpiles and turn off tombs.''' As a preemptive measure, you can easily delete your Graveyard [[stockpile]]s. Dwarves don't haul things if there's no stockpile to place them in. Turning off or removing [[coffin]]s stops burials as well.

* '''Keep them busy.''' Make a bunch of busy-work for your dwarves, just to keep them underground. It's not perfect but it helps. Time to re-organize your stockpiles.

===Civilians trapped outdoors===
Anything that blocks intruders will also block your dwarves. This can cause the problem of dwarves being trapped outside with the enemy, and the enemy ''will'' find them. Having more than one entrance can be useful here, but each requires adequate defenses - the weakest link and all that. If you make these entrances accessible by drawbridge only, with a (short) moat outside that, and keep the drawbridge up most of the time, having lots of entrances shouldn't be too much of a problem.

===Trade depot & caravans===
Factoring in a 3-tile wide access to the [[trade depot]] adds a layer of complexity. Letting merchants in while keeping enemies out requires a careful balance. The merchants can reveal ambushes and thieves like any other creature, and they can arrive in the middle of a [[siege]]. If they do, they can be slaughtered before reaching your doors, and that hurts you, (as well as possibly causing your civilian dwarfs to want to go running out and collect their dropped items.) Consider sending heavily armoured escorts when expecting a caravan.

Only [[wagon]]s need a three tile wide path to the depot, so the [[elves]] and some of the dwarven and human merchants can still get through if it's only 1-tile wide. You will possibly want to build the depot underground, so civilian dwarves can access the depot and goods. Wagons can't use stairs, so you need a three-tile [[ramp]], unless you can dig into the face of a cliff.

===Branching corridors===
Enemies will take the most direct path to your fortress, (even if it's not very direct at all). You can use this to your advantage. Have two paths to the fortress: a long, twisting, three-wide road, and a shorter, one tile wide, trap-filled passage. Attackers will usually prefer the short and deadly path. This makes a good line of fire for a ballista, too.

Alternately, you can have a primary, convenient, direct 3-wide path to your fortress open most of the time, with a convoluted detour that is forced (by drawbridges) only during sieges, lined with traps and overseen by marksdwarves. The possibilities are infinite.

===Levers===
Be careful where you place the [[lever]]s controlling your various entrances, traps and other defenses. Or any lever at all, for that matter. Make sure they are either central or close to locations of idle dwarfs, or both - near a [[meeting area]] or bedrooms of [[nobles]] is often a good plan. Make sure that the entire path to each lever is [[underground]] or your dwarves might be unable to reach them if told to "stay underground" (test this during peacetime!) Try putting all your defense-related levers in a single room, perhaps down a staircase from your meeting area, and put a door (or hatch) on the entrance(s). Then you can lock your lever-puller inside to ensure rapid response time.

Another solution to the problem of rapid response time is to make your lever room double as a [[Screw pump|pump]] room. Pumping is a good way to build up your dwarves' [[Attribute|attributes]] regardless of whether the pump is doing work or not. If you want a dedicated lever operator or three, turn off all their labors except pumping, and set the pumps up so that they can be operated exclusively by your dedicated lever operators. Rotate these positions every so often so the attribute gain will be distributed among multiple dwarves.

For the truly ambitious, the lever room could be spread over multiple levels, and the pumps could work together to power one or more artificial [[Waterfall|waterfalls]]. (Waterfalls work well in this case because their operation is not fortress-critical, and your dwarves like the mist they produce.)

Use [[Notes]] to label each lever and attached device and trap clearly - if you come back to a game after a week and can't remember your levers, they are useless (or, worse, dangerous!) Color code your levers with different color [[stone]] if that works for you.

==General Suggestions==

===First concerns===

====pre-embark decisions====
Defense starts before the game does, at embark when you're choosing your location, your dwarves' starting skill mixes, and your starting equipment and supplies. If you expect trouble (an evil biome, perhaps), then it can be crucial to bring at least one axe. Picks make decent weapons, and a dwarf with the proper mix of [[ambusher]] skill starts with a [[Ambusher#Free equipment|free equipment]] - a suit of [[leather armor]], a [[crossbow]] and several dozen steel [[bolt]]s. A supply of wood means you don't have to chop trees for a while, and similarly a few simple stone (a few [[bauxite]]?) allows you to make immediate workshops even before your miner has swung her pick. While an untrained dwarf can usually wrestle most small and medium beasts, one unarmored (semi-)military dwarf with an axe or crossbow can be a big edge against most early threats.

For most starts, unless your embark location is very close to a [[chasm]] mouth or open [[magma vent]], or you are starting in an [[evil]] biome ''(and that is only recommended for experienced players, so why are you reading this?)'', there should be no serious immediate threats. Unless you are at [[war]] with a civilization (visible on the pre-embark screen), sieges and ambushes don't start until you've created some wealth, the first winter at the earliest. So wild animals are your only concern, predators that might prey on lone dwarfs and thieving animals that will target your valuables.

====Striking the earth====
First, look around. At the terrain, at the animals present. Scan the {{k|u|| menu before un-pausing the game at the start, and regularly. More animals will enter the map, constantly and without warning, so keep an eye on visitors.

One of your first priorities is to get things underground or otherwise secure, to prevent rot but also to prevent theft. Carving out a channel/moat, or removing the slopes to a hill, or building a wall, or a combination of those will work fine, but better if you don't have an unwanted entrance to wall up later. Soil is very fast to dig out, and just as strong against enemies, but may not be desirable for a later, mature fortress. Balance convenience against your long-range plans and visible threats.

Consider and plan the entrance to your fortress - perhaps a ramp leading down, or a tunnel into the side of a hill or cliff. A long, narrow entrance (a valley and/or tunnel) allows you to control it, with archers, with traps, with a siege engine at the end. It gives you time to prepare your military. However, it also means that your dwarfs will have to walk that entire distance every time they enter and leave your fortress, and be that much further from help should they need it. Entrances vary from a few tiles to a many dozen. Start with something smaller for now, but plan on how to develop the entrance you want later.

An L-bend, or several, or drops in z-level may provide better security, or a firing platform for siege engines and/or archers. Many complex traps involve several levels beneath the entrance (for drainage of liquids or other diabolical purposes.) Using some of the principles above, it might look something like this...

#####################
(a) ? (-trap .....#
? area-) . .# (A's/SE)
################....#
# #
#D D#
# #
<Inner Fortress>
(Not to Scale)

(a) = bait animal, on [[restrain]]t
# = tunnel walls, above-ground walls, valley walls with slopes removed, and/or channels
? = ramp up, drawbridge, moat, defensive structures, or combination of all
traps = mechanic's traps and/or complex death traps, as you wish.
....
. . = area open to sky, to prevent "dwarves staying inside" from archers outside entrance
....
D = wardog on [[restrain]]t
(A's/SE)= future site for archers and/or [[siege engine]]s (planning ahead)

The above might be longer or shorter, partially or entirely above or below ground, or have more turns. The "inner fortress" might only be a Trade Depot, with another similar entryway behind that. Instead of the turn, it might drop a level and dive below the sight of the Siege Engines. Since the first caravan won't arrive for at least 6 months, you can dig a 1-tile wide tunnel for now, or a staircase, and then dig out to another location for a more formal entrance. This is only a very rough, very simple example of combining possibilities.

====It's mine!====
Consider how you will secure your valuables, your entrance, and any land you want to claim as "dwarf only" - by channeling, removing the slopes from nearby hills, maybe walls? At first, consider including at least enough above-ground terrain for any [[farm plot]]s and [[meeting area]]s. This could perhaps be as small as a 5x5 walled enclosure, or be multiple compounds, but some players aim at claiming (most of) the entire map. Any barrier limits your dwarfs, but keeps enemies out until you have your fortress up and running at a basic level and are prepared to respond properly. Due to thieves' ability to get past locked doors, and a caravan needing a path that's 3-wide, you won't be able to create a hard "gate" that you can open and shut until you have a [[mechanic's workshop]] and some [[mechanism]]s for levers, to link to a [[drawbridge]].

====Inside vs. outside====
Not "above ground" vs "subterranean", but the border where the inside of your fortress starts, what you claim as "yours" vs "out there". Some fortresses just have one main gate, some try to own the entire map. Some have an "airlock", a middle ground (remembering multiple, layered defenses!) where a Trade Depot is kept, that visitors can access and is protected, but then a deeper, even more secure inner fortress - think of a castle courtyard - inside the walls but not yet inside the castle itself. A safe zone for friends, still unfriendly for enemies but taking extra precautions against full intrusion.

This can be above ground or deep underground, a direct line or a maze of z-levels - that's all up to you, how much work you think "security" is worth. Hey, it's not like ''you'' have to do the heavy lifting.

That line of defense - any line - can be passive (walls and barriers and traps only) or active, with military, either on permanent duty or with stations to report to when activated. Remote controlled bridges create movable walls and closed gates or open hidden moats to reroute visitors, enemies and/or your dwarves depending on the situation, so there is no one "configuration", but several different options all side by side.

====Mechanic's traps====
Traps are a good friend for the starting player. We're talking the simple traps that a mechanic places - complex death traps are up to you. Stone traps are a good start - they're easy, effective against all but the biggest creatures, and ammo is plentiful if you're mining in stone. When goblins show, they can number less than a dozen to start, but grow over time. Start with a row in an early chokepoint, maybe your entry hall or outside it, make that one row into a few, and go from there. But lead your target - count on the next attack being larger than the last.

If you want to breed monkeys for skin, bone and meat, or amuse yourself with live goblins, a row or five of cage traps at the very entrance of your fort would be a good start. Leave room for this when you place your stone traps - killing the monkeys first won't allow live monkeys to be caged. (You still get the meat & etc from those corpses, just not breeding stock.)

As your dwarfs creates weapons, as you trade for them, or (later) as you gather those of your fallen enemies, [[weapon trap]]s will become attractive. There is no hard rule or formula for all this - be creative.

====Complex traps====
Between levers, pressure plates, water and magma, much fun can be had. But this article won't deal with any specifics. (See [[Trap design]] for those.) We will say - plan ahead. Think about what you might want to do, and leave ample room for it, in all 3 dimensions.

====Military====
To start, you will probably have few if any full-time military standing guard over your dwarfs - there is just too much to do at first, and serious threats are (hopefully) several seasons away. If you are going to make weapons and armor, have stockpiles near where your draftees work and rest, perhaps near an entrance/exit, but not so close that it might get over-run before your dwarfs can equip. Eventually you might have perhaps a quarter (or more or less) of your dwarfs as full-time military, and they'll need a barracks where they will sleep and practice, archery ranges if that's their weapon of choice, and quick, safe routes to their battle stations or patrol areas. When to begin a full-time military presence is personal choice and influenced by your game situation, but plan on eventually having them live and practice near where they will be fighting as much as possible. See [[Military design]] for a more complete discussion on planning and deploying military and militia.

==Different philosophies==
There are many, ''many'' ways to play DF. Some players play hard and tight, and some fast and loose. Some take no risks and protect every last dwarf and cat, and others happily leave a highway of dwarf and animal bodies for the next immigration wave to follow. Some live for the slaughter of ascii goblins, and others for the mega-project. No one "defense" will serve everyone's tastes.

===Losing is fun===
There is no final "win" in Dwarf Fortress, no end point or Easter egg that says "Congratulations!" - it just keeps going, until, inevitably and unavoidably, you will lose. That's part of the game. So it's all about how you play until then, and finding your type of fun in that process.

==="Fun" vs. security===
It's not hard to create an acre of traps that, realistically, simply no threats can survive. If you want to pursue a megaproject (that is not a defensive trap) in peace and security, this may be a good plan. However, if you look forward to the military end of things, then you want to allow, or at least be able to invite combat at your choosing. New players are recommended to use the hall-of-traps entryway, at least to start. Many experienced players challenge themselves by limiting their use of simple traps, or other voluntary handicaps. It's all about what you think is [[fun]].

==Specific suggestions==

For specific suggestions, descriptions and blueprints for...

* '''fortress layout''', see [[Defense design]].
* '''soldiers & military''', see [[Military design]].
* '''traps''', see [[Trap design]].

----
'''See also:
:*[[Siege engine]]
:*[[Siege]]
:*

[[Category:Guides]]
[[Category:Fortress defense| ]]
[[Category:World]]
[[Category:Design]]

40d Talk:Farming

2009-08-12T13:01:34Z

Arkenstone: /* Double-check */

== Farming in Winter ==

It appears that farm plots now have a menu for farming in the winter. Has anyone done this yet? --[[User:Karlito|Karlito]] 00:42, 30 October 2007 (EDT)

:Sounds like winter farming works fine. It's probably part of the general streamlining of temperature and whatnot (why would a tropical winter be worse than a glacial summer, underground?) --Doomclown

::Spider Webs do not seem to depend on being near the water or farms now. Most I have seen appeared in a narrow valley on the outside of the mountain. --Silveron

:::Winter farming is working fine, I've farmed Plump helmets whole winter. No starved dwarves for me! --[[User:UltimaPhantom|UltimaPhantom]] 15:25, 8 November 2007 (EST)

== Farming aboveground issue ==

You're allowed to build aboveground farm plots on areas where you can't actually plant seeds, but it doesn't tell you this. Basically you have to make sure farm plots outdoors are built on biomes that have at least some vegetation (shrubs, grass doesn't count) in order for your dwarves to actually plant the seeds you set. Trying to farm on a mountain biome or any other that is listed with "Other Vegetation: None" will end up with the plot just being ignored. And there are now often multiple biomes in any given fortress map, as seen on the site selection menu when you start a fort. --[[User:BahamutZERO|BahamutZERO]] 21:23, 30 October 2007 (EDT)

:Farming in the winter is handy now, but does any one know what it means when the plant type in the farm (when you pick out what yave our going to grow) is red? It won't let me grow it! --Comment by [[User:Rock n Rat|Rock n Rat]] and copy-edited by [[User:Savok|Savok]] due to its high level of unreadability

::When the name is red, that means that, for whatever reason, that crop cannot be planted at that time. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 20:53, 2 November 2007 (EDT)

::This is most likely because it is late winter, and any seeds planted at that point won't have time to grow by the end of the year. It doesn't take into account the fact that the crops may still be growable in the spring as it does with the other seasons; something about the new year throws it off. --[[User:Hesitris|Hesitris]] 10:06, 18 November 2007 (EST)

'''Irrigation above ground''' seems bugged, and is certainly deceptive. Muddied ground is not a problem, and a farmplot can be designated and will get created. However, "no seeds available" is the only option for planting - usually. If the farmplot overlaps even a single tile of soil, you get the option to ''designate'' any available AG seeds for all 4 seasons - but they never get planted. (I designated two side-by side farmplots with identical seeds (in season), one over mud + soil, one over pure soil (and placed the soil to the right, just because). The latter was planted immediately (and replanted next season), the mixed-muddy was not planted in 2 seasons. --[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 17:26, 10 August 2009 (UTC)

== Mixed Plots ==

The following paragraph contradicts itself a couple times, which is the correct behavior? <blockquote>
The farm plot should be either entirely above ground or entirely subterranean. A mixed-class farm plot will allow you to choose any crop for planting, but the chosen crop will be planted only on tiles capable of growing it. Worse, planters will not skip over the infertile tiles, leaving the rest of the plot fallow whether it can support the crop or not.</blockquote>[[User:Amstrad|Amstrad]] 17:07, 10 November 2007 (EST)

:I think what it means is that the planter will plant until he reaches a tile incapable of growing, the stop completely. Let's say you have a 1x8 plot, and tile 3 is not capable of growing the crop. Tiles 1 and 2 will be planted, but the farmer will stop at 3. He will not skip over it and continue planting tiles 4-8. It is not contradictory, but should be reworded. --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 13:48, 18 November 2007 (EST)

::What the writer mean by "mixed plot" is if you build a plot underground and open the roof in some place. The area(s) where you don't have roofing anymore will be considered as above ground, and the rest will still be considered by the game to be underground. --[[User:Eagle of Fire|Eagle of Fire]] 18:09, 18 November 2007 (EST)

== Food Hauling caveat ==

It was suggested that stone and wood hauling be turned off during planting season to prevent starvation. It seems more prudent to me that in case of eminent starvation to turn off FOOD HAULING so all the hungry dwarves can swarm the previously tasked foods. Then turn it back on and let them continue taking their time getting it to where it needs to be. Is this a bad idea? ~~
: I don't think dwarfs will recognize food that hasn't been hauled from the field when they search for something to eat, that is, food doesn't normally go directly to the plate. There's also the part where foodstuff can wither in the fields if no one picks it up and moves it to a stockpile in time. --[[User:FJH|FJH]] 20:50, 7 March 2009 (EST)

== Flowchart ==

That's got to be the most complicated possible way to present that information, which is already covered in a much clearer table on the [[crops]] page. It would also be horribly intimidating to the newbies. No offense to whoever took the time to make this monstrosity, but I think it should be axed, or at the least moved to the more relevant crops page. [[User:Mzbundifund|Mzbundifund]] 23:25, 28 November 2007 (CST)

:You say it like Dwarf Fortress itself is not horribly intimidating. No offense taken, but, then again, farming is one of the most complicated aspects of the game and I spent quite some time trying to wrap my mind around it's quirks.

:I made this illustration to help me plan workshops chaining, optimize hauling and quickly evaluate gathered shrubs. Tabular data on the [[Crops]] page serves great as a reference, but not so much as an aid in designing processes. Besides, some people like me comprehend such visual form of information easier.
:This diagram is already linked on [[Crops]] page, and if people deem that image describing in detail farming workflow doesn't belong to [[Farming]] page, so be it. [[User:Nophotoavailable|Nophotoavailable]] 02:49, 29 November 2007 (EST)

:It's seems a great flowchart to me, especially the way it's linked in the corner so it doesn't dominate the page. Well done for creating it. [[User:Djp|Djp]] 05:46, 29 November 2007 (EST)

::I appreciate the flowchart, and find it more useful for contemplating the system-as-a-whole than the table on Crops. Table's good for detail, bad for seeing relationships & alternatives, like "What are all the crops that I can use to make fabric?". [[User:Kidinnu|Kidinnu]] 08:54, 29 November 2007 (EST)

::Hah, I seem to be in the minority, if indeed there's even one other person who agrees with me. Fair enough. [[User:Mzbundifund|Mzbundifund]] 15:38, 28 November 2007 (CST)

== Re-Irrigation ==

I noticed that my unused farms, after a time, will show "No seeds available for this location". There doesn't seem to be anything on this wiki to talk about this. I later found out (by loo{{K|k}ing around}) that this is because the tiles underneath the plot were no longer muddy. Shouldn't there be a section to warn players that even active farms have some de-muddified tiles (farmers no longer walk on them, to muddify them), that should periodically be irrigated? --[[User:Akel Desyn|Akel Desyn]] 10:24, 3 December 2007 (EST)

:Ooh, that happens? That's really important. Off the top of my head, I can think of at least two important things that need revision.
:However, I use soil for farming (so far), so I shouldn't be the one to fix them. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 14:37, 29 May 2008 (EDT)

== Red crops ==

We should try to figure out once and for all what the reddened crops mean. The two most popular explanations I see floating around are either that there are not enough days left in the season to grow it and that the farm is not fertile enough. My testing has shown that it is neither. In late autumn (13 Timber, not enough time to grow anything) cave wheat and pig tails red out, while quarry bushes do not. Quarry bushes can't be grown in winter either, so something weird is going on. It's not fertility either, because the plots that have had nothing grown on them redden out at exactly the same time as the ones constantly used. --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 20:05, 27 December 2007 (EST)

:I remember reading somewhere that farmers have to have experience with a crop dying from being planted too late in a season before they know when it's too late to plant it. Sounds implausible, but I wouldn't put it past Toady to implement it that way. Had your farmers ever planted quarry bushes "too late" before your test?--[[User:Maximus|Maximus]] 01:28, 28 December 2007 (EST)

:I've never planted quarry bushes at that fortress. Now that I think of it, I don't think I had any rock nuts at all. That's probably it. Crops only redden out if you have the seeds for them. I'll start a test fortress with no pig tails or something and see if I can confirm this. --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 09:21, 28 December 2007 (EST)

::I've confirmed this. Crops red out if there are not enough days left in the season, but do NOT red out if you have no seeds. In my test, I brought rock nuts and plump helmet spawn only. In late summer, sweet pods did not redden out. In late autumn, only quarry bushes reddened out. However, I noticed another oddity. Quarry bushed reddened out when there were less than 25 days left until winter, even though they take 41 days to grow! I need to test whether they will wilt when planted between 41 and 25 days left. --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 10:28, 28 December 2007 (EST)

::This is strange. It reddened out after I selected it and let it run for a game day (there were 39 days left in the season). Maybe the trigger for reddening is trying to plant it, not having seeds. This definitely needs more testing. --[[User:Valdemar|Valdemar]] 10:41, 28 December 2007 (EST)

:::Plants will red out if there is not enough time for them to grow in this season ''and'' they can't be grown in the next season (Otherwise they are just transferred to the next season). ''Dark'' red means there are still seeds on the plot of that plant. --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 22:38, 4 March 2008 (EST)

::::I've experienced something completely wierd. My pump helmets have red out. I am in a Scorching environment and the field had just been made. It always happens towards the end of Winter as well. Currently in-game it's the 17th obsidian. It turned back to normal the first day of spring.[[User:Mission0|Mission0]] 03:29, 4 August 2008 (EDT)
:::::My environment isn't scorching, but I also have red plump helmets; it's the 15th obsidian, so perhaps it's a calender bug (no wrap-around check)? [[User:Chess123mate|Chess123mate]] 17:09, 13 February 2009 (EST)

I've a farm plot where Plump Helmets are red - and you can grow them all year round! --[[User:Theory|Theory]] 13:50, 13 August 2008 (EDT)
:Was this during the winter? The last time I looked into this (though I think it's fixed), crops don't wrap around from year to year- so they don't check to see if you still want this growing in Spring during Winter like they check Winter during Autumn. [[User:Vaniver|Vaniver]] 22:47, 24 March 2009 (UTC)

== Fertilization ==

So you can choose to fertilise your plots with potash. How long does this last? How much more crop does a fertilised plot produce and if I fertilise more than once in short succesion, does it produce even more? [[User:Robje|Robje]] 17:33, 21 January 2008 (EST)
And what does ''seas fert'' option mean?--[[User:Dorten|Dorten]] 07:48, 7 February 2008 (EST)

:seas fert - seasonal fertilization? - auto fertilize every season?
:: It seems so. The first time I saw it, I thought it meant fertilize with seaweeds (LOL).--[[User:Aykavil|Aykavil]] 10:08, 4 July 2008 (EDT)

I cant fertilize my indoor clay loam plot (probably not needed) - will now check silt. Muddy rock seems to work? --[[User:Koltom|Koltom]] 23:03, 20 February 2008 (EST)

:IIRC, adds +3 to crop yield. I may be wrong. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 00:06, 21 February 2008 (EST)

Ow. The Ghost of the English Language has been offended once more. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 14:37, 29 May 2008 (EDT)

=== Double-check ===

I've made 20 units of potash since starting my fortress (two 10-unit orders from the job manager) and have bought at least one unit from a dwarf caravan. Each indoor plot says Ft: 0/1, and the outdoor plots say Ft: 0/8. I have double-checked that all my plots say "Seas Fert (Y)." So why is it that I still have 21 units of potash on my inventory screen? Have they not been fertilizing? Why not? --[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 09:11, 5 November 2008 (EST)

:Fertilization is indoors-only on muddy plots, afaik. --[[User:GreyMario|GreyMaria]] 16:22, 5 November 2008 (EST)

:: So you can't fertilize indoor soil plots? All my farms are on Silty Clay Loam. *boogle* Now I'll have to figure out how to set up an irrigation system. Or, I suppose, just convert the potash to pearlash....--[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 19:07, 5 November 2008 (EST)

:: Okay, now I'm even more confused. Today I loaded up the game, and within an hour, they fertilized my outdoor farms. The only difference is that I started filling the moat, which borders the outdoor farms on two sides each (one tile barrier). One of my indoor farms borders the moat on one side, but that wasn't fertilized. o.O --[[User:RomeoFalling|RomeoFalling]] 23:26, 5 November 2008 (EST)

:::'Irrigation' in DF doesn't mean having moats or channels, you actually have to get the ground wet. --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 09:01, 12 August 2009 (EST)

== Greenhouse ==

To my experience, the ceiling on a "greenhouse" can be made out of anything, my rock salt greenhouses work just fine. [[User:Eurytus|Eurytus]] 20:03, 21 April 2008 (EDT)

:This is accurate. Floors of any variety let in light, even though dozens of levels of flooring. You can have an 'above ground' farm hundreds of feet underground.--[[User:Dadamh|Dadamh]] 13:36, 29 May 2008 (EDT)

::IIRC, most (all?) floors do not let in light, but they do let in abovegroundness. --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 14:37, 29 May 2008 (EDT)

:::Cancel that. It's ''outsideness'' that they don't let it.

The paragraph on chanelling+roof to build a greenhouse seems off base. If you're going to build a roof, you may as well build walls around your field on high ground. --[[User:Aykavil|Aykavil]] 10:08, 4 July 2008 (EDT)

:Not really, no. Using floors is just as good for farming as being aboveground, and just as secure as staying underground. Plus, just walling in an area has problems on top of that, such as triggering cave adaptation. [[User:LegacyCWAL|LegacyCWAL]] 16:29, 20 January 2009 (EST)

::Umm... pardon me, but walling an area in does NOT trigger cave adaptation, but building floors does. Walling the area in will cause them to vomit if they are cave-adapted, if that's maybe what you meant...? --[[User:Drake1500|Drake1500]] 02:48, 25 April 2009 (UTC)

:::Yeah, that's what I meant. If you wall in an area, you're liable to have cave-adapted farmers barfing all over their fields. --[[User:LegacyCWAL|LegacyCWAL]] 17:01, 23 June 2009 (UTC)

----

Personally, I dislike the section Greenhouse, since it boils down to "constructions don't block light, so you can build an aboveground farm plot deep in the earth," which is one of those telling-people-how-to-play-the-game-not-just-how-the-game-works things that I find detract. Opinions? --[[User:Savok|Savok]] 11:28, 13 February 2009 (EST)
: Rip out that guide and give it to 'em bluntly, like you say. But do note it's an exploit, we just consider it less of an exploit to use glass or grates. Isn't it really a "once lit by the sun, always lit by the sun" bug? --[[User:Jellyfishgreen|Jellyfishgreen]] 11:46, 13 February 2009 (EST)

== Outdoor Farming Inside The Fort ==

If you like to grow berries on your farm, such as prickle berries or wild strawberries ( very common to most maps ) but dont like having a farm outside where your dwarfs keep getting scared by the wild life, then here is a simple solution!

Its simple, I have been doing this since the day I started Playing.
Dig out your farms underground and place farm plots over them as usual, ( as if u would for growing Plump Helmet ) once you have your farm ready for plump helmets the get your Miner Dwarf(s) to go above and Channel down to the farm to allow for light to shine on the plot. I is Important to note that you DO NOT channel out the whole roof, this will cause parts to collaps and cave in, injuring your Dwarfs, it is best to channel a line out skip 2 lines then channel again

Like So:
( . ) Is channeled space
( - ) Is Un-channeled space
...............
---------------
---------------
...............
---------------
---------------
!!NOTE: you must have the first line of channeling on top of the first space of your farm,(the first square that the dwarfs plant on)Or else this technique will not work.!!

By using this technique you can give your Dwarfs both safely and a wide variety of plants to cook eat and brew.
I suggest Once you have a simple fort up and running you make 10 small farms, Two(2) for plump helmet, Two(2) for wild strawberry, Two(2) for prickle berry, One(1) for fisher berry, One(1) for Whip vine, One(1) for Long Grass and One(1), if your lucky, for Sun Berries.
This will allow for your dwarfs to have assess to varieties of fruits and alcohol, Also this will give you more ingredients to cook Lavishing meals with.

I Hope This Helps With The Agriculture, Good Luck On Your Fort!

== Growth Times? ==

How are the times calculated when it comes to growth times? Does skill affect it? How about plant type? Is it a set amount every time? Also, should these answers be listed in the wiki if found out, or would they be too much of a spoiler? [[User:Shardok|Shardok]] 09:30, 8 August 2009 (UTC)
:added a bit bout that. --[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 14:15, 8 August 2009 (UTC)

== One crop/season ==

Hey, could you explain better what is exactly meant by that? Do you mean only one type of crop can grow per season, or do you mean you can only grow *one* farms worth of crop per season? Because I've grown 2 or 3 different outputs of crop with good farmers. And I've also changed from Plump Helmet to Pig Tails midseason because I ran out of seeds and they went and planted the new crop type. Can you verify this? [[User:Shardok|Shardok]] 18:21, 9 August 2009 (UTC)
:Well, looks like [[User:Höhlenschreck|Höhlenschreck]] decided to change it himself, but my questions still stand if you actually do have a better explanation of what was meant by what you said. [[User:Shardok|Shardok]] 22:30, 9 August 2009 (UTC)
::It seems he and I disagree - I'll hold off until one or the other is confirmed. I said "one/season/plot" - one per farmplot (regardless of size, it's designated as only 1 crop type for each growing season), and one crop maturation per season, both.

::(Edit - I was Wrong, Ignore!) Ime, if you plant a "fast" crop early in the season, it grows to maturity and can be harvested earlier - but if replanted you don't get a 2nd crop that same season, no matter how fast. More (and this I'm ''not'' 100% sure about), if you plant something that grows all 4 seasons, like plump helmets, you'll only get 400 crops in 100 years - fast growth doesn't "carry over" to speed up later harvests. But I've never done a long-term experiment that focuses ''solely'' on crops, so this is only from casual observation - namely, I've ''never'' noticed a crop ready to be harvested early in a season that wasn't left over from the last. Doesn't mean it didn't escape my notice, but that's what I've seen.--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 22:46, 9 August 2009 (UTC)
:::I suggest you do just that experiment - crop grow time carries over to both the next month '''and''' the next season. --[[User:Höhlenschreck|Höhlenschreck]] 23:51, 9 August 2009 (UTC)
::::Have to agree with HS on that one. You also seem to confuse month and season. And calculating from yield is just not working because thats determined by skill. --[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 00:00, 10 August 2009 (UTC)
:::::Just to clarify something Albedo said. He said 400 crops in 100 years. As in, 400 harvests of a single tile in 100 years. Which you seemed to have thought he meant 400 plants harvested in 100 years. [[User:Shardok|Shardok]] 00:07, 10 August 2009 (UTC)
::::::I see. That would, less dramatically put, make 4 harvests in a year per tile and that is not true. At all. Make that 12 per year and tile for plumps. Or 10 to 11, if your farmer is bad, lazy or otherwise occupied too. --[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 00:38, 10 August 2009 (UTC)
:I was, indeed, dead ass wrong on that point - how embarrassing. It seems because I rotate crops, I've never had that "carry over" effect - bah. BR - thanks for removing the "arable" soil bits, and the other correction/repairs - Holenschreck needs to learn what "vandalism" really means (and/or just stop being lazy.)--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 17:13, 10 August 2009 (UTC)

::"'''''borders''''' on vandalism"; You were hiding a revert under a misleading summary. Afterwards you admitted on the disc that you never did actually check on the topic...once again you were acting overhasty --[[User:Höhlenschreck|Höhlenschreck]] 22:00, 10 August 2009 (UTC)
:::Stop being silly, that doesn't count as vandalism at all.--[[User:Richards|Richards]] 22:48, 10 August 2009 (UTC)
I rewrote that sub-section ([[Farming#Finding_farmland]]) - hopefully it's both clear ''and'' correct now.--[[User:Albedo|Albedo]] 22:59, 10 August 2009 (UTC)

40d:Stupid dwarf trick

2009-08-12T12:51:13Z

Arkenstone: /* Swimming pool */ Added: "It does help gain attributes though."

{{D for Dwarf}}

A '''stupid dwarf trick''' is any project that that requires a large amount time and effort, for little or no practical benefit. They exist only as a challenge for experienced players.

==Monumental Statue==

'''Difficulty:''' Depends on how big you want the statue to be. If you are feeling really masochistic, cast it out of obsidian using magma and water.

'''Usefulness:''' None.

==Artificial Waterfall==
To keep the waterfall going, you need a [[pump]] stack, preferably powered by a [[windmill]] or [[water wheel]].

'''Difficulty:''' Moderate.

'''Usefulness:''' Dwarves love [[waterfall]]s. Putting a waterfall in your [[meeting hall]] will give your dwarves good [[thought]]s, although it can significantly lower framerate.

==Execution Tower==
Just a tall tower to chuck your captives to their deaths.

'''Difficulty:''' Easy.

'''Usefulness:''' Lets you dispose of prisoners, and claim expensive silk, meltable iron, and (eventually) useful bones. Also highly amusing.

==Bridge-a-pult==
A bridge that opens outwards, to fling enemies away. Ideally, they land in a very nasty place.

'''Difficulty:''' The hard part is the nasty place they get flung to.

'''Usefulness:''' There are a far more effective ways to defend a fortress, but few are as entertaining.

==Dam==
Build a wall across a riverbed to stop the flow of water. Floodgates optional.

'''Difficulty:''' On a map that freezes in the winter, this is easy. Otherwise, very difficult. (See Moses effect, below, or simply drop ridiculous amounts of stone in with orchestrated [[cave-in]]s.)

'''Usefulness:''' Dubious.

==[[Tower-cap]] Farm==
You absolutely need to break into an underground river or lake. Make some muddy floors over a big area and wait.

'''Difficulty:''' Moderate.

'''Usefulness:''' Yes, if it's big enough.

==Magma Pumping==
It's a lot like pumping water, only more dangerous, and requires the [[screw pump|pumps]] to use [[magma-proof]] pipes and screws in their construction.

'''Difficulty:''' The difficult part is making all those [[iron]] or [[steel]] pumps and [[bauxite]] [[floodgate]]s. Very high risk.

'''Usefulness:''' Magma is fun, but impractical.

==Booze Bomb==
If you set barrels of booze on fire they explode. The resulting explosion isn't fire, but steam. Can possibly be used as a complex trap. About the only way to start a fire on demand is magma. Possibly caged [[fire imp]]s, [[magma men]], or [[fire snake]]s.

'''Difficulty:''' High.

'''Usefulness:''' There are many easier ways to kill goblins, but so very few that also set them on fire. This has numerous beneficial effects, including the annihilation of any non-metal items the goblins are carrying, although this can lead to the destruction of significant monetary sums in narrow [[giant cave spider]] [[silk]] clothes.

==Greenhouse==
A [[greenhouse]] is just a farm with the the ceiling channeled out from above. This lets you grow outdoor plants without venturing above ground. For the maximum style, build a glass roof to keep your farmers safe.

'''Difficulty:''' Low.

'''Usefulness:''' Surface plants are not so much more useful than underground crops. [[Rope reed]] can be grown year round.

==Gladiator Arena==
Station some soldiers at the bottom of a shallow [[pit]] and dump your captives in. You can also use dangerous animals instead of soldiers. For extra points, put the prisoners in cages connected to ramps underneath the arena floor. One lever will open both the cage and a hatch above the ramp.

'''Difficulty:''' Moderate, but time consuming. Some danger depending on the relative skill of your soldiers and the danger of the captive.

'''Usefulness:''' The most difficult way to dispose of prisoners. It does give your soldiers a little bit of experience.

==Self Destruct Lever==
A mechanism that, for example, could flood your fort with magma, or release a trapped megabeast. For bonus points, build the whole fort on a single [[support]].

'''Difficulty:''' Very high. Extremely dangerous.

'''Usefulness:''' None. By definition.

==Flood the World==
'''Difficulty:''' High danger. Will kill your frame rate.

'''Usefulness:''' Will prevent any sieges, at least. Or anything else, save for the occasional invasion of sociopathic [[Carp]].

==[[Ballista]] Battery==
Overlap a few ballistas to completely cover a narrow corridor. There is an unavoidable risk of your operators wandering into the line of fire.

'''Difficulty:''' Low. If you insist on highly-trained operators with high-quality ballistas, it gets harder.

'''Usefulness:''' A complicated and dangerous way to defend a single corridor. Ultimately extremely effective. Sometimes.

==[[Swimming]] pool==
It's a reservoir that fills to 4/7 exactly. Station soldiers inside, lock them in, and fill. This way they gain [[swimming]] skill.

'''Difficulty:''' Low. It's just a pair of reservoirs.

'''Usefulness:''' The swimming skill is only slightly useful. This is most useful if the entrance to your fort has narrow walkways/moats surrounded by water, and you station your soldiers there. It does help gain attributes though.

==Ice tower==

Building a huge tower is easy. To make things more [[fun]], make one out of some exotic material, like [[glass]], [[ice]], [[gold]], or [[soap]].

'''Difficulty:''' Low. You need to be on a freezing map to pull off an ice tower.

'''Usefulness:''' None.

==Drowning Chamber==
'''Difficulty:''' Moderate.

'''Usefulness:''' You can kill prisoners, useless peasants, irate nobles, hammerers, untrainable animals, or anything else.

==Magma Chamber==
'''Difficulty:''' Dangerous as any magma project.

'''Usefulness:''' It's like a drowning chamber, but you can't recover most of the victim's stuff.

==[[Obsidian]] factory==
You need one reservoir of water, and one of magma. Mix, cool and mine.

'''Difficulty:''' Medium.

'''Usefulness:''' Very sharp swords, valuable stone furniture and crafts. Done properly, it can also serve as a magma chamber ''and'' a drowning chamber.

==Labyrinth==

A maze of twisty little passages, all alike. [[Trap]]s and dangerous animals are essential. You can have a retracting bridge drop invaders in, or just have a labyrinth as a back door.

'''Difficulty:''' It's a lot of mining. Having a bridge drop invaders inside is more difficult, but more useful.

'''Usefulness:''' It makes a nice element of fortress defense, and you can dump your prisoners inside it.

==Adventure Mode Fortress==

Build a fortress specifically for exploring in [[adventure mode]]. You can either make a nasty monster-filled challenge, or a smorgasborg of masterpiece steel weapons and armor. Possibly both. A [[chasm]], underground [[river]], or [[hidden fun stuff]] can ensure the fortress is occupied.

'''Difficulty:''' The sky's the limit.

'''Usefulness:''' Not applicable.

==Vomitorium==
Prevents [[cave adaption]]. It's like the greenhouse, only instead of a farm, it's [[meeting hall]] or [[barracks]]. Since you can't build [[table]]s or [[bed]]s outside, build the room and [[channel]] down to it, or build a [[bridge]] or two over the top.

'''Difficulty:''' Low.

'''Usefulness:''' Low. Can be a problem when [[goblin]] archers get involved.

==Pit o' Doom==
Combine with an Execution Tower for maximum z-level executions! Spike traps are a must.

'''Difficulty:''' Low. You want it nice and deep though.

'''Usefulness:''' Dispose of prisoners, execute nobles, gruesome fatal injuries, laugh maniacally.

==Underground Perpetual Motion Power Plant==
Combine with a use for the power and you either have an awesome setup, or a ticking time bomb.

'''Difficulty:''' High. Maintaining the correct water level is annoying difficult at times.

'''Usefulness:''' Depends on size of plant and what it's connected to. Also useful as a puzzle for adventurers.

==[[Computing|Dwarfputer]] Complex==
A big mess of fluid and/or machine logic full of hatches, floodgates, gears, pumps, etc. and powered by waterwheels, windmills, or useless idle dwarves. Hook it up to doors, bridges, and traps.

'''Difficulty:''' Medium to high, depending on what you want to build. You'll want to build for very high water flow if you have more than a few fluid gates.

'''Usefulness:''' Your mechanics and architects will level up very fast. Manual pumps give something for your haulers to do and makes them stronger. Try and make a clock to trigger different mechanisms in different seasons. See if enemies actually blunder into your intricate traps. Watch all hell break loose as water freezes.

==Alarm Clock==
Are your soldiers all sound asleep while blood soaks the walls? No need to deconstruct their beds one by one, ''if'' you bought the Dwarf Wakey 3000! Simply a solitary floor tile balanced on a support, one or more can be toppled with the pull of a lever to produce an earth-shaking racket that'll have them leaping for their axes!

'''Difficulty:''' Low.

'''Usefulness:''' Low.

==Hammer of [[Armok]]==
A gigantic hammer made out of pure steel and/or valuables looming over your fortress entrance ready to smite those foolish enough to lay a siege on you. Also, gives you a psychological advantage over the traders who unload their goods under it. Attach to a lever-linked support for quicksmiting, or any other single-tile collapse mechanism. BONUS: Cover it with blood.

'''Difficulty:''' Low. Depends on size, materials and magma's existence, though. Make it a gold hammer menacing with adamantine spikes, if you're going for high quality.

'''Usefulness:''' Low-medium. 10x10 size is minimum for practical effectiveness. 30x30 hammer extending handles lenght from your entrance actually works against sieges.

==Mega/Water Drowning Trap-Thing==
This is basically a channel above some pressurised water with a short tunnel leading to a door. The door needs to be connected to a lever somwhere in a safe part of the fortress. Position the door facing the main stairs into your fortress (for multiple stairs use multiple traps). When enemies come down the stairs, pull the lever and make them drown. (It helps to seal off the rooms).

'''Difficulty:''' Medium. Needs flowing water under pressure and levers.

'''Usefulness:''' Medium. Depends on the size of your fortress/defences/amount of attackers. Works well with fire demons to create a sauna.

==Glass Ceiling==
Sick of having your dorfs vomit all the time when they go out to retrieve loot or lumber? Despair no more! Build an almost-infinitely tall tower, and then put a glass floor on the highest level, spanning the entire map. For extra kicks, make a mechanism that will crash the entire thing upon the heads of the one goblin horde that manages to get through all your other deathtraps.

'''Difficulty:''' Medium. Very grueling.

'''Usefulness:''' Low.

==Magma Cannon==
[http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=33837.0 It can be done!] It uses a row of pumps to pressurize the magma in a chamber with only one exit. When the floodgate opens, the magma flies out a short distance.

'''Difficulty:''' Very high. You need [[iron]] and [[bauxite]] [[screw pump]]s to make it work, plus a big above-ground construction.

'''Usefulness:''' Marginal. But very cool.

==Moses Effect==
With enough pumps, you can pull water out of a square faster than it flows in. This can create a reverse waterfall, or a dry spot in the middle of a flowing river. The effect is like Moses parting the Red Sea.

'''Difficulty:''' Surprisingly easy.

'''Usefulness:''' You can use this trick to create a waterfall or drowning chamber. It is also important if you want to pass through an [[Aquifer]], although that is far more difficult.

==Doberman Launcher==
Whenever a dog or cat gives birth, stuff all the kittens and puppies in one cage in your entryway. Link this cage to a pressure plate beside it. Should your last lines of defense be breached, goblins will step on it and in the next instant be torn apart by dozens of goblin-seeking hostiles and distracted by dozens of surplus targets. The trap actually going off will probably be very bad for your framerate. Bonus: Train all dogs inside as wardogs when they mature. Super bonus: Make it a Bear Trap. MEGADWARF bonus: Combine with a drowning chamber and carp trap

'''Difficulty:''' Low.

'''Usefulness:''' Medium, potentially fortress-saving

==Dwarven Apartment Complex==
Essentially, one of the many possible [[mega constructions]] dedicated to providing dwarves with rooms so high above the ground they get vertigo. Every floor must have plenty of rooms of at least 2x3 squares, with walls and a door surrounding this. Oh, and it has to go up as many Z-levels as possible. For extra credit, decide on what the top storey will be (i.e. as many levels up as you deem possible, minus one so you can build a roof) and turn this into a Royal bedroom for a [[noble]], complete with gem windows, artifact/masterwork components, and untold numbers of armour stands and weapon racks. And then build some shorter but wider apartment buildings nearby to turn your fortress into essentially a giant fist with extended middle finger.

'''Difficulty:''' Low, although the walls around the rooms can be a bit fiddly due to the impossibility of building walls on constructed floors (yes, an extra credit challenge is to do this without using Remove Construction).

'''Usefulness:''' Limited, because you could just dig the things underground and save yourself the hassle.

=="I dinna say we wurren't crazy!"==

Build a huge room with nothing in it except rock pillars, then dig channels on the levels above and below it until you have a ridiculously huge room ten Z-levels in height. Inspired by Irregular Webcomic.

'''Difficulty:''' Mainly in putting up with the incessant channelling, and avoiding dropping large chunks of ceiling onto the floor from five levels up.

'''Usefulness:''' Negative, due to the insane amounts of space it takes up.

==Magma Mausoleum==
This trick involves dripping water on to the middle of a magma pool until you have a column of obsidian, then channeling down into the obsidian ''more than'' one Z level, and putting a burial receptacle there. This probably won't work in magma tubes or Volcanos since the created obsidian would fall into the bottomless pit. The trick is getting the water to fall onto the magma in a controlled manner. Bonus points for each additional level down you manage to place the coffin.

'''Difficulty:''' High. Requires certain resources from the start, plus lots of setup. And your dwarves tend to erupt into dwarf steam occasionally.

'''Usefulness:''' None, since an obsidian lined room with the exact same furniture somewhere else will please your nobles just as much.

==Aqueduct Power==
If your river's a long way away from your fortress, building a trans-map axle may be less efficient than building an aqueduct and pump stack driven by waterwheels in the river. The pump stack raises it to the height of your fort, where it flows through the long, long aqueduct and drives waterwheels on the other end. Getting the water pressure just right so it powers your waterwheel without flooding the fort can be [[Fun]]. Diagonal channels make good pressure reducers.

'''Difficulty:''' High. Lots of stone, lots of engineering, lots of dangerous outdoor work, lots of trial-and-error for the receiving waterwheels.

'''Usefulness:''' High. As much water and power as you want, wherever you want, whenever you want.

==Aquifer Power==
Aquifers can be a resource of immense power. If you have two levels of aquifer, you can generate a continuous flow by draining one level of aquifer into another and plant waterwheels above it. One stream can power a lot of wheels.

'''Difficulty:''' High. Anything to do with draining aquifers is very [[Fun]].

'''Usefulness:''' High. The lowly windmill pales in utility compared to a waterwheel.

40d:Stupid dwarf trick

2009-08-12T12:49:25Z

Arkenstone: /* Gladiator Arena */ Added: "For extra points, put the prisoners in cages connected to ramps underneath the arena floor. One lever will open both the cage and a hatch above the ramp."

{{D for Dwarf}}

A '''stupid dwarf trick''' is any project that that requires a large amount time and effort, for little or no practical benefit. They exist only as a challenge for experienced players.

==Monumental Statue==

'''Difficulty:''' Depends on how big you want the statue to be. If you are feeling really masochistic, cast it out of obsidian using magma and water.

'''Usefulness:''' None.

==Artificial Waterfall==
To keep the waterfall going, you need a [[pump]] stack, preferably powered by a [[windmill]] or [[water wheel]].

'''Difficulty:''' Moderate.

'''Usefulness:''' Dwarves love [[waterfall]]s. Putting a waterfall in your [[meeting hall]] will give your dwarves good [[thought]]s, although it can significantly lower framerate.

==Execution Tower==
Just a tall tower to chuck your captives to their deaths.

'''Difficulty:''' Easy.

'''Usefulness:''' Lets you dispose of prisoners, and claim expensive silk, meltable iron, and (eventually) useful bones. Also highly amusing.

==Bridge-a-pult==
A bridge that opens outwards, to fling enemies away. Ideally, they land in a very nasty place.

'''Difficulty:''' The hard part is the nasty place they get flung to.

'''Usefulness:''' There are a far more effective ways to defend a fortress, but few are as entertaining.

==Dam==
Build a wall across a riverbed to stop the flow of water. Floodgates optional.

'''Difficulty:''' On a map that freezes in the winter, this is easy. Otherwise, very difficult. (See Moses effect, below, or simply drop ridiculous amounts of stone in with orchestrated [[cave-in]]s.)

'''Usefulness:''' Dubious.

==[[Tower-cap]] Farm==
You absolutely need to break into an underground river or lake. Make some muddy floors over a big area and wait.

'''Difficulty:''' Moderate.

'''Usefulness:''' Yes, if it's big enough.

==Magma Pumping==
It's a lot like pumping water, only more dangerous, and requires the [[screw pump|pumps]] to use [[magma-proof]] pipes and screws in their construction.

'''Difficulty:''' The difficult part is making all those [[iron]] or [[steel]] pumps and [[bauxite]] [[floodgate]]s. Very high risk.

'''Usefulness:''' Magma is fun, but impractical.

==Booze Bomb==
If you set barrels of booze on fire they explode. The resulting explosion isn't fire, but steam. Can possibly be used as a complex trap. About the only way to start a fire on demand is magma. Possibly caged [[fire imp]]s, [[magma men]], or [[fire snake]]s.

'''Difficulty:''' High.

'''Usefulness:''' There are many easier ways to kill goblins, but so very few that also set them on fire. This has numerous beneficial effects, including the annihilation of any non-metal items the goblins are carrying, although this can lead to the destruction of significant monetary sums in narrow [[giant cave spider]] [[silk]] clothes.

==Greenhouse==
A [[greenhouse]] is just a farm with the the ceiling channeled out from above. This lets you grow outdoor plants without venturing above ground. For the maximum style, build a glass roof to keep your farmers safe.

'''Difficulty:''' Low.

'''Usefulness:''' Surface plants are not so much more useful than underground crops. [[Rope reed]] can be grown year round.

==Gladiator Arena==
Station some soldiers at the bottom of a shallow [[pit]] and dump your captives in. You can also use dangerous animals instead of soldiers. For extra points, put the prisoners in cages connected to ramps underneath the arena floor. One lever will open both the cage and a hatch above the ramp.

'''Difficulty:''' Moderate, but time consuming. Some danger depending on the relative skill of your soldiers and the danger of the captive.

'''Usefulness:''' The most difficult way to dispose of prisoners. It does give your soldiers a little bit of experience.

==Self Destruct Lever==
A mechanism that, for example, could flood your fort with magma, or release a trapped megabeast. For bonus points, build the whole fort on a single [[support]].

'''Difficulty:''' Very high. Extremely dangerous.

'''Usefulness:''' None. By definition.

==Flood the World==
'''Difficulty:''' High danger. Will kill your frame rate.

'''Usefulness:''' Will prevent any sieges, at least. Or anything else, save for the occasional invasion of sociopathic [[Carp]].

==[[Ballista]] Battery==
Overlap a few ballistas to completely cover a narrow corridor. There is an unavoidable risk of your operators wandering into the line of fire.

'''Difficulty:''' Low. If you insist on highly-trained operators with high-quality ballistas, it gets harder.

'''Usefulness:''' A complicated and dangerous way to defend a single corridor. Ultimately extremely effective. Sometimes.

==[[Swimming]] pool==
It's a reservoir that fills to 4/7 exactly. Station soldiers inside, lock them in, and fill. This way they gain [[swimming]] skill.

'''Difficulty:''' Low. It's just a pair of reservoirs.

'''Usefulness:''' The swimming skill is only slightly useful. This is most useful if the entrance to your fort has narrow walkways/moats surrounded by water, and you station your soldiers there.

==Ice tower==

Building a huge tower is easy. To make things more [[fun]], make one out of some exotic material, like [[glass]], [[ice]], [[gold]], or [[soap]].

'''Difficulty:''' Low. You need to be on a freezing map to pull off an ice tower.

'''Usefulness:''' None.

==Drowning Chamber==
'''Difficulty:''' Moderate.

'''Usefulness:''' You can kill prisoners, useless peasants, irate nobles, hammerers, untrainable animals, or anything else.

==Magma Chamber==
'''Difficulty:''' Dangerous as any magma project.

'''Usefulness:''' It's like a drowning chamber, but you can't recover most of the victim's stuff.

==[[Obsidian]] factory==
You need one reservoir of water, and one of magma. Mix, cool and mine.

'''Difficulty:''' Medium.

'''Usefulness:''' Very sharp swords, valuable stone furniture and crafts. Done properly, it can also serve as a magma chamber ''and'' a drowning chamber.

==Labyrinth==

A maze of twisty little passages, all alike. [[Trap]]s and dangerous animals are essential. You can have a retracting bridge drop invaders in, or just have a labyrinth as a back door.

'''Difficulty:''' It's a lot of mining. Having a bridge drop invaders inside is more difficult, but more useful.

'''Usefulness:''' It makes a nice element of fortress defense, and you can dump your prisoners inside it.

==Adventure Mode Fortress==

Build a fortress specifically for exploring in [[adventure mode]]. You can either make a nasty monster-filled challenge, or a smorgasborg of masterpiece steel weapons and armor. Possibly both. A [[chasm]], underground [[river]], or [[hidden fun stuff]] can ensure the fortress is occupied.

'''Difficulty:''' The sky's the limit.

'''Usefulness:''' Not applicable.

==Vomitorium==
Prevents [[cave adaption]]. It's like the greenhouse, only instead of a farm, it's [[meeting hall]] or [[barracks]]. Since you can't build [[table]]s or [[bed]]s outside, build the room and [[channel]] down to it, or build a [[bridge]] or two over the top.

'''Difficulty:''' Low.

'''Usefulness:''' Low. Can be a problem when [[goblin]] archers get involved.

==Pit o' Doom==
Combine with an Execution Tower for maximum z-level executions! Spike traps are a must.

'''Difficulty:''' Low. You want it nice and deep though.

'''Usefulness:''' Dispose of prisoners, execute nobles, gruesome fatal injuries, laugh maniacally.

==Underground Perpetual Motion Power Plant==
Combine with a use for the power and you either have an awesome setup, or a ticking time bomb.

'''Difficulty:''' High. Maintaining the correct water level is annoying difficult at times.

'''Usefulness:''' Depends on size of plant and what it's connected to. Also useful as a puzzle for adventurers.

==[[Computing|Dwarfputer]] Complex==
A big mess of fluid and/or machine logic full of hatches, floodgates, gears, pumps, etc. and powered by waterwheels, windmills, or useless idle dwarves. Hook it up to doors, bridges, and traps.

'''Difficulty:''' Medium to high, depending on what you want to build. You'll want to build for very high water flow if you have more than a few fluid gates.

'''Usefulness:''' Your mechanics and architects will level up very fast. Manual pumps give something for your haulers to do and makes them stronger. Try and make a clock to trigger different mechanisms in different seasons. See if enemies actually blunder into your intricate traps. Watch all hell break loose as water freezes.

==Alarm Clock==
Are your soldiers all sound asleep while blood soaks the walls? No need to deconstruct their beds one by one, ''if'' you bought the Dwarf Wakey 3000! Simply a solitary floor tile balanced on a support, one or more can be toppled with the pull of a lever to produce an earth-shaking racket that'll have them leaping for their axes!

'''Difficulty:''' Low.

'''Usefulness:''' Low.

==Hammer of [[Armok]]==
A gigantic hammer made out of pure steel and/or valuables looming over your fortress entrance ready to smite those foolish enough to lay a siege on you. Also, gives you a psychological advantage over the traders who unload their goods under it. Attach to a lever-linked support for quicksmiting, or any other single-tile collapse mechanism. BONUS: Cover it with blood.

'''Difficulty:''' Low. Depends on size, materials and magma's existence, though. Make it a gold hammer menacing with adamantine spikes, if you're going for high quality.

'''Usefulness:''' Low-medium. 10x10 size is minimum for practical effectiveness. 30x30 hammer extending handles lenght from your entrance actually works against sieges.

==Mega/Water Drowning Trap-Thing==
This is basically a channel above some pressurised water with a short tunnel leading to a door. The door needs to be connected to a lever somwhere in a safe part of the fortress. Position the door facing the main stairs into your fortress (for multiple stairs use multiple traps). When enemies come down the stairs, pull the lever and make them drown. (It helps to seal off the rooms).

'''Difficulty:''' Medium. Needs flowing water under pressure and levers.

'''Usefulness:''' Medium. Depends on the size of your fortress/defences/amount of attackers. Works well with fire demons to create a sauna.

==Glass Ceiling==
Sick of having your dorfs vomit all the time when they go out to retrieve loot or lumber? Despair no more! Build an almost-infinitely tall tower, and then put a glass floor on the highest level, spanning the entire map. For extra kicks, make a mechanism that will crash the entire thing upon the heads of the one goblin horde that manages to get through all your other deathtraps.

'''Difficulty:''' Medium. Very grueling.

'''Usefulness:''' Low.

==Magma Cannon==
[http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=33837.0 It can be done!] It uses a row of pumps to pressurize the magma in a chamber with only one exit. When the floodgate opens, the magma flies out a short distance.

'''Difficulty:''' Very high. You need [[iron]] and [[bauxite]] [[screw pump]]s to make it work, plus a big above-ground construction.

'''Usefulness:''' Marginal. But very cool.

==Moses Effect==
With enough pumps, you can pull water out of a square faster than it flows in. This can create a reverse waterfall, or a dry spot in the middle of a flowing river. The effect is like Moses parting the Red Sea.

'''Difficulty:''' Surprisingly easy.

'''Usefulness:''' You can use this trick to create a waterfall or drowning chamber. It is also important if you want to pass through an [[Aquifer]], although that is far more difficult.

==Doberman Launcher==
Whenever a dog or cat gives birth, stuff all the kittens and puppies in one cage in your entryway. Link this cage to a pressure plate beside it. Should your last lines of defense be breached, goblins will step on it and in the next instant be torn apart by dozens of goblin-seeking hostiles and distracted by dozens of surplus targets. The trap actually going off will probably be very bad for your framerate. Bonus: Train all dogs inside as wardogs when they mature. Super bonus: Make it a Bear Trap. MEGADWARF bonus: Combine with a drowning chamber and carp trap

'''Difficulty:''' Low.

'''Usefulness:''' Medium, potentially fortress-saving

==Dwarven Apartment Complex==
Essentially, one of the many possible [[mega constructions]] dedicated to providing dwarves with rooms so high above the ground they get vertigo. Every floor must have plenty of rooms of at least 2x3 squares, with walls and a door surrounding this. Oh, and it has to go up as many Z-levels as possible. For extra credit, decide on what the top storey will be (i.e. as many levels up as you deem possible, minus one so you can build a roof) and turn this into a Royal bedroom for a [[noble]], complete with gem windows, artifact/masterwork components, and untold numbers of armour stands and weapon racks. And then build some shorter but wider apartment buildings nearby to turn your fortress into essentially a giant fist with extended middle finger.

'''Difficulty:''' Low, although the walls around the rooms can be a bit fiddly due to the impossibility of building walls on constructed floors (yes, an extra credit challenge is to do this without using Remove Construction).

'''Usefulness:''' Limited, because you could just dig the things underground and save yourself the hassle.

=="I dinna say we wurren't crazy!"==

Build a huge room with nothing in it except rock pillars, then dig channels on the levels above and below it until you have a ridiculously huge room ten Z-levels in height. Inspired by Irregular Webcomic.

'''Difficulty:''' Mainly in putting up with the incessant channelling, and avoiding dropping large chunks of ceiling onto the floor from five levels up.

'''Usefulness:''' Negative, due to the insane amounts of space it takes up.

==Magma Mausoleum==
This trick involves dripping water on to the middle of a magma pool until you have a column of obsidian, then channeling down into the obsidian ''more than'' one Z level, and putting a burial receptacle there. This probably won't work in magma tubes or Volcanos since the created obsidian would fall into the bottomless pit. The trick is getting the water to fall onto the magma in a controlled manner. Bonus points for each additional level down you manage to place the coffin.

'''Difficulty:''' High. Requires certain resources from the start, plus lots of setup. And your dwarves tend to erupt into dwarf steam occasionally.

'''Usefulness:''' None, since an obsidian lined room with the exact same furniture somewhere else will please your nobles just as much.

==Aqueduct Power==
If your river's a long way away from your fortress, building a trans-map axle may be less efficient than building an aqueduct and pump stack driven by waterwheels in the river. The pump stack raises it to the height of your fort, where it flows through the long, long aqueduct and drives waterwheels on the other end. Getting the water pressure just right so it powers your waterwheel without flooding the fort can be [[Fun]]. Diagonal channels make good pressure reducers.

'''Difficulty:''' High. Lots of stone, lots of engineering, lots of dangerous outdoor work, lots of trial-and-error for the receiving waterwheels.

'''Usefulness:''' High. As much water and power as you want, wherever you want, whenever you want.

==Aquifer Power==
Aquifers can be a resource of immense power. If you have two levels of aquifer, you can generate a continuous flow by draining one level of aquifer into another and plant waterwheels above it. One stream can power a lot of wheels.

'''Difficulty:''' High. Anything to do with draining aquifers is very [[Fun]].

'''Usefulness:''' High. The lowly windmill pales in utility compared to a waterwheel.

40d:Water wheel

2009-08-11T18:45:04Z

Arkenstone: Removed "A simple design is available at [http://www.bay12games.com/cgi-local/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=11&t=000946 this forum post]": Link Dead.

{{Machine_component|name=Water wheel|key=w
|construction=
* 3 [[Wood]]
|construction_job=
# [[Architecture]]
# [[Carpenter]]
|power=Needs 10 power. Generates 100 power. Net gain of 90 power.
}}

A '''water wheel''' is a [[machine component]] that provides [[power]] via [[water]] flow. To build a water wheel, select {{key|b}}uild menu and choose {{key|M}}achine components. It requires 3 [[wood]] and generates 100 power, which can be used for operating a [[pump]] or [[mill]]. You can use [[axle]]s and [[Gear assembly|gear]]s to access the power produced by a water wheel, or connect machinery like a [[pump]] or [[millstone]] directly.

Waterwheels have quality levels for both design and building. These can be checked from the {{k|r}}oom screen by moving to the entry and pressing enter.

== Construction ==
The architecture and carpentry labor are needed for the construction.

A water wheel occupies 3 adjacent tiles (N-S or E-W axis, no diagonals).

Although you can build a stable water wheel on solid ground, this isn't going to do you any good. For this reason, water wheels are almost exclusively built in a hanging state with gaps in the floor below. To do this the water wheel must be attached to a nearby machine component. A water wheel can attach to other machines only on either side of its center tile.

'''Power''' will be sometimes generated once one channel tile under the water wheel is filled with water at a depth of four or greater '''if''' there also is a [[water flow]] in one of the three tiles beneath it (we need more info in the article on what constitutes waterflow). The easiest way to achieve this is to place the water wheel in a river, but also a brook or channel works if done right (read below). Having two floor tiles and one channel tile below the wheel is not necessarily working even if that one tile fulfilles the above conditions, but it ''can''. 

You can transport the power wherever it is needed via horizontal and vertical axles and gear assemblies. It is possible to support a waterwheel by building its center next to a preexisting waterwheel's center.

==Brook==
Intuitively one would place a water wheel in a river, but they can also be powered if placed over [[brook]] tiles, but '''only if''' you first dig through the surface of the brook. Build a [[channel]] three tiles long, right on the brook. The water wheel will sit above this channel.

== Channels ==
It is possible to power a water wheel in a dead end channel if it is connected to a river or brook <read as: water that has flow. Further details needed.> A channel connected to a murky pool will not suffice, no matter what water movement is present in the channel.

Any direct non-diagonal connection (see [[water pressure]]) to a [[river]] or [[brook]] that has flow (some do not) will power a waterwheel, even if it's a dead end. In fact there is a quirky bug where a floodgate will not block this flow. The floodgate works, the water doesn't actually move, but the waterwheel still thinks it is directly connected to a flowing river or brook so it happily keeps churning away.

==Designs==

{|style="border: 1px solid #0b0; background: #dfd"
|+'''Basic watermill design'''
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
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|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|O
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|*
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|=
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|=
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|=
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
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|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
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|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
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|style="color: #7FF; padding: 0"|~
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|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
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|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
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|}
{|style="border: 1px solid #0b0; background: #dfd"
|+'''Dual watermill design'''
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
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|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07f; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
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|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #7FF; padding: 0"|~
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|O
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #333; padding: 0"|*
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|=
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|=
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|=
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
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|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #970; padding: 0"|W
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
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|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
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|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|#
|style="color: #777; padding: 0"|+
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|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|style="color: #07F; padding: 0"|~
|}
This is by no means the limit of water power from one location, depending on the width of your river/brook/channel you can stack many waterwheels side-by-side (really big assembles will need to be artificial as there's a limit to how wide the game created water flows get). Just remember to make sure there's a support structure in place before you place the next wheel.

== Perpetual motion ==

Due to the low power draw of a [[screw pump]], a self-powering assembly can be made with a water wheel that still leaves plenty of excess power for other uses. This is an [[exploit]], and possibly a bug.

 
'''*REMEMBER TO BUILD THE HORIZONTAL AXLE OR GEAR ASSEMBLY BEFORE THE WATER WHEEL*'''
{|style="border: 1px solid #333; background: #000"
|+'''Perpetual Motion Design #1 - Top Floor'''
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|style="color: #008000; padding: 0"|'''X'''
|style="color: #00FF00; padding: 0"|'''X'''
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|style="color: #C0C0C0; padding: 0"|`
|- style="font-family: monospace; font-weight: bold; font-size: 135%"
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|style="color: #970; background: #FFFFFF; padding: 0"|W
|style="color: #FFFFFF; padding: 0"|╔
|style="color: #FFFFFF; padding: 0"|═
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{|style="border: 1px solid #333; background: #000"
|+'''Perpetual Motion Design #1 - Bottom Floor'''
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{|style="border: 1px solid #333; background: #000"
|+'''Perpetual Motion Design #2'''
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|}
 
'''Key'''
 
'''Wall: ║ ═ ╠ ╝ ╚ ╔ ╗ ╣ ╩'''
 
'''Floor: +'''
 
'''Water Wheel: W'''
 
'''Gear Assembly: *'''
 
'''Axle E/W: ═'''
 
'''Axle N/S: ║'''
 
'''Pump from west: XX'''
 
'''Pump from south: XX'''
 
'''Channel: _ or if background color is white'''
 
'''Closed water source opening: X'''
 

[[Category:Machine components]]

40d Talk:Anvil

2009-08-11T17:31:50Z

Arkenstone: /* Fire Safe Anvil? */

== Cleaning the page ==
I've made some cleanup alterations, both to the article and this discussion page. Hope you all don't mind. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 23:21, 22 February 2008 (EST)

== Bars needed to make ==
I've noticed this page doesn't list how many bars are required to make an anvil. Anyone who knows offhand? Seems like it'd be useful info. [[User:MOOMANiBE|MOOMANiBE]] 17:37, 22 February 2008 (EST)
:3. --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 18:43, 22 February 2008 (EST)
::Added this to the page. --[[User:Myroc|Myroc]] 16:25, 31 January 2009 (EST)

== Getting an anvil from the caravan ==
So is it possible to easily procure an anvil within the first 1-2 years? because if it is, then I'm going to ditch it on the embark screen and spend those 1000pts on turtles.
:Thats a lot of turtles. Get dogs instead. Imagine a swarm of pooches descending on a goblin fortress, taking no prisoners, and leaving no goblin child behind! --[[User:Ikkonoishi|Ikkonoishi]] 15:33, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:In my experience the first dwarven caravan brings one. However they will charge you dearly for it (~1000$), moreso if the anvil is steel (~3000$). Prices are from memory. [[User:Anonymousphrase|Anonymousphrase]] 15:51, 4 November 2007 (EST)
:: The caravan has a high chance of bringing one, it is not certain. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 09:27, 8 November 2007 (EST)
:::Dearly yes, but a well made stack of food will cover the cost of a steel one so it's not hard to buy out the caravan. I had one caravan turn up with two steel anvils and a stack of plump helmet (5). Seems that was all they could carry :( --10:21, 8 November 2007 (EST)
::::True, but that does take some planning. I never got enough cash (what is the correct dwarven word, the value word...) to buy the anvil in the first year, but I'm stupid and focus on creating goblets, and making enough beds etc for my dwarfs. --[[User:Soyweiser|Soyweiser]] 13:57, 8 November 2007 (EST)
:::::Cash in the first year is easy. I often find myself trading mechanisms because they're relatively high value/item (fewer hauling jobs to the depot), and if you're buying an anvil you're taking a lot of weight off their wagon. Its not like you didn't bring a mechanic... Barring that, it is possible to make enough cheap stone trinkets to buy everything you really want off the caravan, assuming you don't mind carting a couple hundred trinkets to the depot. You had to eat all that stone somehow, right? I've also never seen a caravan without an anvil in the first year, assuming the wagons could get to me. (And heck, it generally takes me to the second year to have enough ready access to fuel to make it worth running a metalsmith anyway, barring nearby known magma) --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 05:28, 22 April 2008 (EDT)

I'd definitely been left high and dry by the first dwarven caravan before. Took me three long years before I was finally able to get my hands on an anvil!—Preceding [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment added by [[User:DaveLawson|DaveLawson]] ([[User talk:DaveLawson|talk]]•[[Special:Contributions/DaveLawson|contribs]]) {{{2|}}}
:I second that statement, I've regularly not seen an anvil show up with the first dwarven caravan. --[[User:Sentack|Sentack]] 11:00, 28 February 2008 (EST)

== Odd anvil materials ==
I have created a zinc anvil (value 200). Is this a bug?
::Anvil (100) made of zinc (x2) with no quality modifier (x1). 100 x2 x1 => 200. Looks right to me. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:29, 14 February 2008 (EST)
::Oh! Wait a minute. You aren't supposed to be able to make anvils out of zinc. What version are you using? I remember there was a bug where dwarves would use a different metal than the one assigned in the task, letting even pig iron be used to make stuff. [[User:VengefulDonut|VengefulDonut]] 12:31, 14 February 2008 (EST)
:::Heh, I'd like to have an archive of that version; I want a bismuth anvil. XD --[[User:Alfador|Alfador]] 11:55, 15 February 2008 (EST)
:::Pig iron stuff... I once had noble mandating pig iron items... He soon got locked in his room for such a crime against dwarvenkind. --[[User:Someone-else|Someone-else]] 07:56, 22 April 2008 (EDT)
::::Remember that anvils can be made of anything if created by a moody dwarf! --[[User:Termitehead|Termitehead]] 09:09, 6 May 2008 (CST)
:::::pig iron bars count, steel bars might, so basically he wants you to make steel....--[[User:Eerr|Eerr]] 16:26, 8 August 2008 (EDT)

== Anvil Quality and/or Material Affecting Final Product? ==

Just to make a note, http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=23783.0 gives anecdotal evidence that the anvil material may affect the quality of items made. In summary, it seems from that post that items of 'higher' material than the anvil material has reduced quality chances (and by 'higher', I would guess the weapon/armor material modifiers). The adamantine scenario is in that post, but the implication is that for a steel industry, a steel anvil would be a good idea. Obviously, more testing is needed, and this might just be drivel. [[User:Blackcat|Blackcat]] 07:19, 26 August 2008 (EDT)

== Fire Safe Anvil? ==

i purchased an iron anvil from the caravan, and when i attempt to construct a metalsmith's forge, it says i need a fire-safe anvil. --[[User:Plstcflsh|Plstcflsh]] 00:55, 15 October 2008 (EDT)

:If you've only just bought it, chances are that the anvil is tasked ("[TSK]") with being taken to a suitable stockpile. Items that have been assigned a task, even hauling, are unavailable for any other purpose. If this is the case, just wait for the anvil to be stockpiled, at which point it will become available, and then build your forge. --[[User:Raumkraut|Raumkraut]] 02:02, 15 October 2008 (EDT)
::Long past helping OP but the alternative is, {{k|f}}orbid the item you need, then immediately re-designate the build job - forbidding things cancels any hauling jobs against them.[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 16:12, 18 July 2009 (UTC)

:::Whatever the case may be, you just invalidated the 'Wooden Anvil' theory: wood isn't fire-safe.
::::Besides, you need a metal axe to cut down trees ;) --[[User:Arkenstone|Arkenstone]] 13:32, 11 August 2009

== Theory for first anvil ==

Maybe it was a pratchett thing? but I remember reading in some fantasy/comedy novel that the first anvil, was all there was in the beginning and the creator used it in creating the world.

Although, diskworld is on the back of a turtle so that might not be the case. But the dwarves involved were very pratchett-ish.
[[User:GarrieIrons|Gar]][[User Talk:GarrieIrons|rie]] 01:15, 22 July 2009 (UTC)

40d:Plant token

2009-08-10T13:03:14Z

Arkenstone: [DRY]: changed "far from" to "away from", as it also appears on several types of trees, which occur in spots not very far from water.

Plants are stored in the matgloss_plant.txt file.

{| {{prettytable}}
|- style='background-color:#ddd'
! Token
! Description
|-
|[MATGLOSS_PLANT:]||The first line of the matgloss tells the game what string is used to refer to this particular plant. Required.
|-
|[TILE:]||What tile is used for this plant. Either a number, such as 6 [♠] or a letter inside apostrophes, such as ':'. Required. See [[character table]].
|-
|[COLOR:]||The [[color]] of the plant. Required.
|-
|[NAME:]||The name of the plant, which is what you see in-game. Required.
|-
|[NAME_PLURAL:]||The plural of the plant's in-game name. Required.
|-
|[GROWDUR:]||How long the plant takes to grow. A season lasts for a GROWDUR of 1008.
|-
|[VALUE:]||How much the plant is worth. Usually 2.
|-
|[DRINK:]||The name and color of the drink brewed from this plant, in the format name:c:c:c, where c is color.
|-
|[DRINKVALUE:]||The value of the drink brewed from this plant.
|-
|[MILL:]||The name and color of the item milled from this plant.
|-
|[MILL_VALUE]||How much the milled product of this plant is worth.
|-
|[MILL_DYE:]||Allows the milled product of this plant to be used as dye, and specifies the dye's [[color]].
|-
|[COOKABLE_WHEN_MILLED]||Self-explanatory.
|-
|[EXTRACT:]||The item extracted from this plant and it's color.
|-
|[EXTRACTVALUE:]||The value of the extract.
|-
|[EXTRACT_BARREL]||The extract is extracted into a barrel.
|-
|[EXTRACT_VIAL]||The extract is extracted into a vial at the farmer's workshop.
|-
|[EXTRACT_STILL_VIAL]||The extract is extracted into a vial at a still.
|-
|[EXTRACT_COOKABLE]||Self-explanatory.
|-
|[LEAVES:]||How many leaves this plant will yield when processed. The leaves are always cookable.
|-
|[SEEDNAME:]||The name of the plant's seeds.
|-
|[SEED:]||The color of the plant's seeds.
|-
|[GENPOWER:]||Use not known, may be obsolete or reference to planned features.
|-
|[SPRING]||This plant will grow in spring. Not mutually exclusive with other season tags.
|-
|[SUMMER]||This plant will grow during summer. Not mutually exclusive with other season tags.
|-
|[AUTUMN]||This plant will grow during autumn. Not mutually exclusive with other season tags.
|-
|[WINTER]||This plant will grow during winter. Not mutually exclusive with other season tags.
|-
|[FREQUENCY:]||The chance for this plant to be gathered with the herb gathering job.
|-
|[CLUSTERSIZE:]||?? Does NOT affect the stack size when embarking or the stack size produced when farming. Possibly the number gathered wild via herbalism? Not tested. Unmodded: 1 on Kobold Bulbs and Valley Herbs, 5 on all other plants.
|-
|[EDIBLE_VERMIN]||Vermin can eat this plant.
|-
|[EDIBLE_RAW]||This plant can be eaten raw.
|-
|[EDIBLE_WHENCOOKED]||This plant can be eaten cooked but not raw.
|-
|[THREAD]||This plant can be woven into thread and therefore cloth.
|-
|[BIOME:]||What [[biome tokens|biome]] this plant appears in.
|-
|[WET]||This plant appears near water features. Not mutually exclusive with the [DRY] tag.
|-
|[DRY]||This plant appears away from water features. Not mutually exclusive with the [WET] tag.
|-
|}

[[Category:Modding]]
[[Category:Tokens]]

40d:Plant token

2009-08-10T12:58:27Z

Arkenstone: Changed "Genpower. Not used, I believe" to "Use not known, may be obsolete or reference to planned features."

Plants are stored in the matgloss_plant.txt file.

{| {{prettytable}}
|- style='background-color:#ddd'
! Token
! Description
|-
|[MATGLOSS_PLANT:]||The first line of the matgloss tells the game what string is used to refer to this particular plant. Required.
|-
|[TILE:]||What tile is used for this plant. Either a number, such as 6 [♠] or a letter inside apostrophes, such as ':'. Required. See [[character table]].
|-
|[COLOR:]||The [[color]] of the plant. Required.
|-
|[NAME:]||The name of the plant, which is what you see in-game. Required.
|-
|[NAME_PLURAL:]||The plural of the plant's in-game name. Required.
|-
|[GROWDUR:]||How long the plant takes to grow. A season lasts for a GROWDUR of 1008.
|-
|[VALUE:]||How much the plant is worth. Usually 2.
|-
|[DRINK:]||The name and color of the drink brewed from this plant, in the format name:c:c:c, where c is color.
|-
|[DRINKVALUE:]||The value of the drink brewed from this plant.
|-
|[MILL:]||The name and color of the item milled from this plant.
|-
|[MILL_VALUE]||How much the milled product of this plant is worth.
|-
|[MILL_DYE:]||Allows the milled product of this plant to be used as dye, and specifies the dye's [[color]].
|-
|[COOKABLE_WHEN_MILLED]||Self-explanatory.
|-
|[EXTRACT:]||The item extracted from this plant and it's color.
|-
|[EXTRACTVALUE:]||The value of the extract.
|-
|[EXTRACT_BARREL]||The extract is extracted into a barrel.
|-
|[EXTRACT_VIAL]||The extract is extracted into a vial at the farmer's workshop.
|-
|[EXTRACT_STILL_VIAL]||The extract is extracted into a vial at a still.
|-
|[EXTRACT_COOKABLE]||Self-explanatory.
|-
|[LEAVES:]||How many leaves this plant will yield when processed. The leaves are always cookable.
|-
|[SEEDNAME:]||The name of the plant's seeds.
|-
|[SEED:]||The color of the plant's seeds.
|-
|[GENPOWER:]||Use not known, may be obsolete or reference to planned features.
|-
|[SPRING]||This plant will grow in spring. Not mutually exclusive with other season tags.
|-
|[SUMMER]||This plant will grow during summer. Not mutually exclusive with other season tags.
|-
|[AUTUMN]||This plant will grow during autumn. Not mutually exclusive with other season tags.
|-
|[WINTER]||This plant will grow during winter. Not mutually exclusive with other season tags.
|-
|[FREQUENCY:]||The chance for this plant to be gathered with the herb gathering job.
|-
|[CLUSTERSIZE:]||?? Does NOT affect the stack size when embarking or the stack size produced when farming. Possibly the number gathered wild via herbalism? Not tested. Unmodded: 1 on Kobold Bulbs and Valley Herbs, 5 on all other plants.
|-
|[EDIBLE_VERMIN]||Vermin can eat this plant.
|-
|[EDIBLE_RAW]||This plant can be eaten raw.
|-
|[EDIBLE_WHENCOOKED]||This plant can be eaten cooked but not raw.
|-
|[THREAD]||This plant can be woven into thread and therefore cloth.
|-
|[BIOME:]||What [[biome tokens|biome]] this plant appears in.
|-
|[WET]||This plant appears near water features. Not mutually exclusive with the [DRY] tag.
|-
|[DRY]||This plant appears far from water features. Not mutually exclusive with the [WET] tag.
|-
|}

[[Category:Modding]]
[[Category:Tokens]]