Dwarf Fortress Wiki - User contributions [en]

v0.31 Talk:Animal caretaker

2011-06-23T08:16:50Z

RadGH: /* Feeding livestock? */

==Implemented yet?==
:Has anyone seen this in action? I doubt this is implemented. unsigned on 14:20, 7 May 2010 by Old Ancient

==Caging large animals==
:I have not seen caretakers heal animals. I have noticed that only dwarfs with Animal caretaker (or animal trainer?) enabled will shuffle animals between cages. Does anybody know which skill it is? It would be useful to put on this page and the [[cage]] page.--[[User:Kwieland|Kwieland]] 16:38, 19 May 2010 (UTC)

::I'm pretty sure it's Animal Trainer. Any 3rd opinion? [[User:Speed112|Speed112]] 17:41, 19 May 2010 (UTC)
:::In 40d, only Animal Trainers would haul '''dangerous''' creatures between cages (for example, cramming all of your goblin prisoners into a single cage) - if the animal is tame, then ''anybody'' would do the job, even nobles. I wouldn't be surprised if the current version behaves the same way, though it would still be wise to check. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 18:03, 19 May 2010 (UTC)
::::Thanks for the confirmation. You are correct, I was referring to dangerous creatures. I think the mishap came on a (corrupted?) 40d game where I had tamed and bred several Giant Cave Swallows. But, several of them showed "Tame" in their title, but would attack anyone who tried to deal with them. So has anyone figured out how to trade away creatures without letting them out of their cages, or is that still buggy?--[[User:Kwieland|Kwieland]] 01:01, 20 May 2010 (UTC)

== animal cleaning ==

I never saw them do it, but I have seen a few with this enabled standing next to animals with a bucket nearby, and a puddle of water on the ground with pages worth of blood and substances. This happens next to one milker at the farmer's workshop. Also, a ranger laid up in the hospital for years who is always surrounded by animals, pets and strays, always has a puddle of bloody water by his bed, and if I run dfclean and look away for a minute, there'll be another. [[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 20:25, 21 October 2010 (UTC)
: Whenever a creature (dwarf, animal, invader, whatever) walks through a square with numeric water in it, even if it's only 1/7 deep, it gets washed, ending up with a couple pages of "water covering (body part)" and dropping any blood on the floor. If it's raining, the same happens the instant the creature steps outdoors - it doesn't actually have to get hit by those blue droplets. I'd bet that the milker wasn't actually cleaning the animal, but was actually gearing up to milk the animal, and the presence of the puddle and its cleaning effect coincidental. Similarly, I doubt the ranger had anything to do with his animals getting clean - if they're "resting" in the hospital, they're JUST resting. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 01:43, 22 October 2010 (UTC)
:: If a farmer performing milking chooses a bucket that already contains water, they will dump it out first, leaving a non-numeric pool of water in the upper left corner of the workshop. As with "numeric" water, anything walking through this square will end up being washed and leaving residues. I have been cleaning up puddles of poisonous (but non-fatal) forgotten beast blood for a few game years, and besides the waterfalls I have to keep a close eye on the milking workshops. --[[User:Neil|Neil]] 16:43, 23 October 2010 (UTC)

== Feeding livestock? ==

I've noticed that my stray sheep tend to starve, even when I've got several dwarves with "Animal Caretaking" turned on. How do animals get fed? I kind of assumed either they'd feed themselves (you know, being sheep), or else they'd be fed by animal-caretaking dwarves.

Of course, maybe they're too dumb to find the grass by themselves. I should try putting them in a pen outdoors. [[Special:Contributions/68.6.47.27|68.6.47.27]] 04:01, 5 June 2011 (UTC)

::Grazing animals need to be assigned to a pasture, that is probably your issue --[[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 08:16, 23 June 2011 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Pasture

2011-06-15T04:35:49Z

RadGH: /* Overcrowding */

If you multiply a grazing creature's maximum SIZE by its GRAZER value, the result is almost always 60 million (yaks, muskoxen, deer, reindeer, and alpacas are slightly lower due to rounding); thus, all creatures graze at a rate proportional to their size. As such, the best livestock are the ones that grow up to the greatest size in the smallest amount of time, and the winner is the water buffalo, growing to 10,000kg within only 2 years. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 19:45, 22 February 2011 (UTC)

==Meaning of GRAZER value==
The actual number specified with the GRAZER token could have any number of meanings - the amount of nutrition gained from eating grass (i.e. the amount of grass removed from the tile when the animal eats), or how often the animal needs to eat (i.e. the rate at which it becomes hungry). Given that higher values equate to lower food consumption, the latter seems more likely. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 19:54, 22 February 2011 (UTC)
:: It actually reflects the nutrition gain. Hunger rate is fixed at 1 per frame. A tile of [dense] grass is good for 1000 frames of grazing. Elephants gain 12 nutrition from every 10-frame grazing session. [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=60554.msg2154630#msg2154630 Here] --[[User:Expedition leader|Expedition leader]] 20:48, 14 April 2011 (UTC)

==Animals fighting in pasture==
Animals that I have placed into a pasture have been wrestling and kicking, to the point where I have a maimed sheep blinking at me and a constant stream of combat reports. Mostly these combats don't result in anything, aside from the footless sheep, but I'd like to prevent it if I could. Anyone else seeing this behavior?
:I am seeing it as well in .21. I have one very mean goat.
::this is intended behaviour (it was in the dev blog), you need a bigger pasture size, or one with more grass (or both) hungry animals in crowded places get unhappy, just like dwarves do and start throwing "tantrums"
:::Ahhh, that explains why I suddenly got a "The Stray Horse (tame) has become enraged" message when I moved my large mammals and my poultry flock into the same pasture so they'd all be closer to the butcher shop. [[User:Gentgeen|Gentgeen]] 05:29, 13 March 2011 (UTC)
:::: This is probably the most annoying new feature. I keep getting these random animals getting bones broken. Even got 1 of them who bled to death after suffering major wounds in practically every body part. And an angry mule KO-ed a pig with a kick to the head. They even rip ears off. My dog's ear has been lying in the meeting hall for 4 years now. And when I trained the dog about 2 years back, the Stray Dog ear became a Stray war Dog ear. --[[User:Stinhad Limarezum|Stinhad Limarezum]] 04:38, 10 May 2011 (UTC)

==Removal of Grazer Tag==
Does anyone know of a way to edit the raws that will remove the grazer tag so an animal doesn't have to graze? – [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:Lennethare|Lennethare]]
:Er, just open the appropriate creature raw file in a text editor (such as Notepad), find the creature definition, locate the [GRAZER:xxx] tag, then remove it and save. If you want the changes to affect a specific world, edit the files in /data/save/regionX/raw/objects, otherwise edit the files in /raw/objects to make them apply to all subsequently generated worlds. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 23:41, 14 March 2011 (UTC)

==Underground Grazing==
Is it possible to feed animals underground with this update? [[Special:Contributions/97.90.179.98|97.90.179.98]] 22:42, 19 March 2011 (UTC)
:all caverns are full of grasslike fungi and moos, which cattle will graze without problem too--[[User:Rhenaya|Rhenaya]] 09:17, 24 March 2011 (UTC)
::well yes, if you have cattle in an underground pasture, your caverns will be full of moos. I suspect you meant 'moss' in this context, though. [[Special:Contributions/194.200.65.239|194.200.65.239]] 10:26, 24 March 2011 (UTC)
:::you should make sound annoucnment D_D and add moos to cows though :x

==Feeding of pets==
It seems pets are fed by their owners as soon as they are starving. Can anyone confirm this? My setup is a Giant beetle (Civilization Forge mod), which sits on a nestbox for months in a row. It went to starving state multiple times, before it vanished again, so I guess it must have been fed by someone. I am pretty sure it was no animal caretaker, as I should have none in my fortress. [[User:Qwertyu|Qwertyu]] 21:04, 4 April 2011 (UTC)

:Update: The pet owner really feeds pets. I just saw him walk to his pet with a "give food" job active. Where would be the best place to put this info? Here (pets need not be pastured) or under pet? [[User:Qwertyu|Qwertyu]] 18:47, 26 April 2011 (UTC)

== Starving water buffalo ==

I had a water buffalo starve to death for some reason, despite it being in a pasture with plenty of grass (that it appeared to be eating). With a grazer value of sixty, it should easily be able to feed itself, no? Any idea what might have gone wrong? [[Special:Contributions/99.251.236.39|99.251.236.39]] 01:18, 18 April 2011 (UTC)
:I had a massive pasture (max size, but theres a couple of farm plots in it) assigned to about 50 animals, out of these maybe 3-4 were Water Buffaloes. After a while , I saw that many animals were hungry and transferred the water buffaloes to another pasture. Then the remaining 45+ animals all became satisfied (and this includes horses, donkeys, llamas, alpacas, cows, reindeer, mules, sheep and pigs). On the other hand a couple of water buffaloes, despite having a dedicated, untouched pasture to themselves, starved. The ones that survive are permanently hungry. I think this is the way they are built. --[[User:Stinhad Limarezum|Stinhad Limarezum]] 04:38, 10 May 2011 (UTC)

== Self serve ==
anyone know if animals will feed themselves outside of a pasture? or will they just starve to death?[[User:Cpad|Cpad]] 04:01, 2 May 2011 (UTC)
:I haven't explicitly confirmed it, but I believe they will if they happen to be standing on grass for other reasons. If they're just congregating with dwarves in a meeting area with no grass then they will starve to death even with grass a few tiles away, but if they happen to be milling around in some place with grass they will eat even if there's no pasture zone there. --[[User:Ral|Ral]] 05:33, 2 May 2011 (UTC)

== Overcrowding ==

I've just added a section to the article titled Overcrowding. It seems like it's worth mentioning beyond just here on the talk page. But, it's a very slim section right now. My hope is that someone has done some experimenting or has more details and will expand it. From my own experience, all I can add is that I've seen tame animals even attack my dwarves. I assume this was due to overcrowding angst. If others can verify, that could be added. [[User:Vitriolum|Vitriolum]] 01:02, 3 June 2011 (UTC)
:I slightly expanded the overcrowding section based on my own experience. After some testing, I discovered animals will only fight with animals which they compete for territory. I had one pasture zone overlapping a single tile of a 4x1 pasture zone, and the creatures in each pasture got in a fight a few times. I moved the second pasture over a single tile, and although the size of the pasture was the same, the animals stopped fighting. In conclusion, if your pastures are not 'contested', then your animals will not 'compete'. -- [[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 04:35, 15 June 2011 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Pasture

2011-06-15T04:34:51Z

RadGH: /* Overcrowding */

v0.31:Pasture

2011-06-15T04:31:36Z

RadGH: /* Overcrowding */

{{quality|Fine|17:59, 25 February 2011 (UTC)}}
{{av}}

Pastures are a feature that was released with version 0.31.19 and are {{L|activity zone}}s that the player creates to hold animals, especially grazing animals. Herbivorous animals now require {{L|grass}} to graze upon, and larger creatures require a greater amount of grass to feed themselves.

Grazing animals use the [GRAZER:<value>] token to signify how much grass they need to eat. This is an inverse number - the value in grazer signifies how much hunger is reduced when eating a unit of grass. A creature with ten times the grazer value needs one tenth the amount of grass (and hence, pasture land) as a creature with a small grazer value.

Animals which graze are typically good livestock candidates, and the larger the creature, the more meat they produce, but the more grass they need to consume.

It is believed that each {{L|time}} unit adds one point to hunger. An animal takes an average of one turn per ten time units, and so a creature of standard speed and agility with [GRAZER:10] would have to eat grass on every single one of its turns just to stave off starvation. Since it takes another turn just to move to the next tile to graze, anything with [GRAZER:20] or less is completely incapable of feeding itself enough grass, even if enough is available. Because of this, the larger creatures like dralthas are virtually impossible to keep fed, and elephants are incapable of feeding themselves fast enough to stave off starvation.

Animals do not need to graze to assign them to pastures. You can also assign pastures inside and use them to put animals that do not need to eat in certain areas. If there is fungus or moss on your indoor floors the animals will consume that in place of grass.

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Animal
! Grazer Amount
! Creature Size
! Milkable
! Shearable
|-
| {{L|Elephant}}
| 12
| 5,000,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Rhinoceros}}
| 20
| 3,000,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Giant moose|Giant Bull Moose}}
| 23
| 4,257,750
|
|
|-
| {{L|Draltha}}
| 24
| 2,500,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Giant moose|Giant Moose Cow}}
| 38
| 2,554,650
|
|
|-
| {{L|Water buffalo}}
| 60
| 1,000,000
| Yes
|
|-
| {{L|Giraffe}}
| 60
| 1,000,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Yak}}
| 85
| 700,000
| Yes
|
|-
| {{L|Gigantic panda}}
| 92 (see below)
| 1,160,900
|
|
|-
| {{L|Cow}}
| 100
| 600,000
| Yes
|
|-
| {{L|Unicorn}}
| 100
| 600,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Moose|Bull Moose}}
| 114
| 525,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Horse}}
| 120
| 500,000
| Yes
|
|-
| {{L|Camel}} (both)
| 120
| 500,000
| Yes
|
|-
| {{L|Giant capybara}}
| 133
| 523,350
|
|
|-
| {{L|Mule}}
| 150
| 400,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Moose|Cow Moose}}
| 190
| 315,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Donkey}}
| 200
| 300,000
| Yes
|
|-
| {{L|Elk}}
| 200
| 300,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Muskox}}
| 210
| 285,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Llama}}
| 333
| 180,000
| Yes
| Yes
|-
| {{L|Deer}}
| 428
| 140,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Reindeer}}
| 461
| 130,000
| Yes
|
|-
| {{L|Panda}}
| 462 (see below)
| 130,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Warthog}}
| 600
| 100,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Elk bird}}
| 600
| 100,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Alpaca}}
| 857
| 70,000
| Yes
| Yes
|-
| {{L|Pig}}
| 1,000
| 60,000
| Yes
|
|-
| {{L|Sheep}}
| 1,200
| 50,000
| Yes
| Yes
|-
| {{L|Goat}}
| 1,200
| 50,000
| Yes
|
|-
| {{L|Mountain goat}}
| 1,200
| 50,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Capybara}}
| 1,333
| 45,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Gazelle}}
| 3,000
| 20,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Hoary marmot}}
| 6,000
| 10,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Groundhog}}
| 20,000
| 3,000
|
|
|-
| {{L|Cavy}}
| 75,000
| 800
|
|
|-
| {{L|Rabbit}}
| 120,000
| 500
|
|
|}

Notes:
* Panda only eat bamboo. They will starve without it.

=Overcrowding=
It is possible to overcrowd a pasture. Animals may become enraged and start fights. This is similar to a dwarf throwing a {{L|tantrum}} and can be solved by enlarging your pasture or keeping fewer animals in it.

Another possibility is to split a large pasture which holds many animals into several smaller pastures, with the pasture size reflecting the amount of grazing the animal needs to survive. Animals will only fight each other if their pasture is sharing the same tiles as the creature they are fighting with{{Verify}}.

v0.31:Trading

2011-06-11T19:35:25Z

RadGH: /* {{L|Dwarves}} */

{{quality|Exceptional|07:56, 19 January 2011 (UTC)}}{{av}}
{{Buggy}}

'''Trading''' in Dwarf Fortress first occurs in the first {{L|Calendar|autumn}} after establishing your fortress, with the arrival of the {{L|dwarf|Dwarven}} {{L|Trading#Caravans|caravan}}. Trading is a good way to acquire resources that are not available or are rare in the local area. It also allows for more freedom in selecting starting gear or purchase of additional skills for the expedition party, because items can always be obtained through trade later.

'''Trader''' is the term used at your Trade Depot to refer to your fortress {{l|Broker}} when dealing with merchants in a visiting caravan ({{key|r}} - "''Trader requested at Depot"''). As a {{L|profession}}, the term usually only applies to visiting merchants, or to a dwarf whose highest {{L|skill}} is {{L|Appraiser}}.

== Trade Depot ==
Building a {{L|Trade depot}} is a requisite for trade with caravans that arrive at your fortress.

While it may be convenient to build a Trade Depot outside at first, it is usually a really good idea to move it inside or build walls, bridges and other fortifications around it to protect caravans and your goods from animals (guzzlers), {{L|thief|thieves}} and {{L|goblin}}s.

Everything that is on your map belongs to you, except:
* the items of non-fortress members (only if they are alive, when they are dead they belong to you if you claim the items),{{Verify}}
* the items that are on merchant animals{{Verify}}
* the items that are on the trade depot (they belong to the caravan until they are moved out of it)

See the {{L|Trade depot}} article for more information on how to interact with it.

==Trading Flowchart ==
{{:Trading/Flowchart}}
After entering the trade menu, select the items to offer from the right, and the desired items from the left. All caravans have a weight limit which cannot be exceeded, and the allowed additional weight is displayed in the lower right corner. If the acting broker has at least Novice or better {{L|Appraisal}} skill, the value of all items will be displayed. Once the proposal is ready, press {{K|t}} to propose the trade, but merchants will not agree unless they make adequate profit. Be sure to use '''trade''', not '''offer''' {{K|o}}, as this will make a gift of the selected items. The amount of acceptable profit is determined by the broker's {{L|Broker skills|skills}} and the merchant's mood, described below. Merchants may attempt to propose counteroffers if they do not accept the proposal, which can then be accepted, rejected, or further amended by the broker.

With more experienced brokers or pleased merchants, even marginally profitable trades can be successful, and counterproposals can be rejected safely, offering the same trade again. Note however that a low profit margin for the traders may not be desirable - it has been suggested that both export and profit numbers influence the size of next years caravan and, in the case of the dwarven caravan, immigration numbers.{{Verify}}

Goods brought by caravans do not have base quality higher than superior, but decorations on a good may be of any quality.{{Verify}}

== Trading cue colors ==

* '''Brown''' Items have been created (or modified) by your fortress. They can be traded away or offered as a gift.
* '''White''' Items were created by another source. They can be traded, but if one of these items has been selected, the entire selection cannot be offered as a gift.
* '''Purple''' Items are under a no-export mandate. If they are traded away it will result in disciplinary action (see [[justice]]) against the dwarf that brought the item to the depot.{{Verify}}
* '''Green''' Items have just been gifted to the caravan and they will not trade it back.
* '''Red''' Items have been seized from another caravan and cannot be traded as is; you will need to decorate them or turn them into other items for them to become "valid" trading items. However, a caravan from a different civilization ''may'' accept stolen goods without changing them first.{{verify}}

Note that containers (barrels, bins, etc) will be displayed according to the origin of the container, not the contents. So a foreign barrel holding locally-produced beer will display as foreign (white). Once you {{k|v}}iew the container, the locally-made contents are displayed as local (brown).

== Merchant mood ==
If your broker has Novice or better {{L|Judge of intent}} skill, there will be a line added below the merchant's dialogue describing the caravan's attitude. Their attitude rises with successful trades (especially if they get lots of profit) and falls when you propose deals they don't like.

* (trader) seems ecstatic with the trading
* (trader) seems very happy about the trading
* (trader) seems pleased with the trading
* (trader) seems willing to trade (Default, at least for humans)
* (trader) seems to be rapidly losing patience
* (trader) is not going to take much more of this
* (trader) is unwilling to trade

The happier you make a merchant, the less profit margin he will demand in a trade. If merchants reach the lowest level, no further trade will be possible, and they will immediately pack up and leave your depot. Since annoyed traders are more likely to reject deals, you should be generous in initial negotiations. Skilled negotiators seem less likely to offend traders with unsuccessful deals.

An easy way to capitalize on this mood system is to perform several partial trades. First trade for a few items, offering goods twice the value of the items you ask for (eg, offer 2000☼ for 1000☼ of his stuff). This will likely make the merchant ecstatic about trading with you. Exit the trade screen, unpause briefly, and then return to trading with a vengeance. With the merchant in such a good mood, he is more likely to counteroffer than reject a trade outright.

== Seizing items ==

Pressing {{K|s}} from the trade menu will seize the selected items of the merchant's. If you seize goods from a caravan, the merchant will respond "Take what you want. I can't stop you." and then leave immediately without the seized goods. Items cannot be seized from the dwarven caravan, and other races will not buy goods stolen from one of their caravans (then marked in red) unless they are tricked into asking for them via counteroffer, or the items are "laundered" by decoration or used to create other goods. Seizing goods will hurt diplomatic relations, but is not grounds for an automatic {{L|siege}}.{{Verify}}

Pressing the seize button while no goods are selected will result in the merchant interpreting your seizure as a joke. This apparently does nothing to benefit or hinder your trading.{{Verify}}

As a side note, if you deconstruct your trade depot with a caravan in it, all the caravan's items will drop to the ground, to be readily hauled away by your Dwarves. This does not mark the items as stolen, and the caravan will leave. However, ''next'' year's caravan is partly based on the profits from the previous year - so if you are relying on that race's caravans for needed items, you're hurting yourself in the long run.{{Verify}}

Another way to steal without marking as stolen is to forbid the trade depot just before they leave, causing them to leave their goods at the depot.{{Verify}}

Note that the civilization attached to a particular caravan will keep track of the value of items the caravan was carrying when they set out to trade, and they will compare this value with the value of items they return home with. Regardless of what method you use to confiscate items from a caravan, even if you came to possess the goods through no fault of your own (an {{L|ambush}} killed the caravaners, for example) the parent civilization may decide that you stole from them and send a {{L|siege}} instead of a caravan the following year. It is prudent to take measures to protect caravans visiting your lands!{{Verify}}

==Offering items==

{{key|o}} You can also give away items, as gifts to the leaders of the {{L|civilization}} you are trading with. This presumably helps relations between yourself and the other faction, though there is not yet a clear correlation between the value of the offerings and the improvement to relations. The exact effects of offerings on trading are unknown but it is believed due to the offerings' net trade value being counted towards the traders' profit, possibly with a modifier (possibly a multiplier of more than 1 as a bonus or less than 1 to compensate for the improved relations){{Verify}}, which in turn increases the quantity and variety of trade goods brought by next year's caravan. Also the {{L|King}} requires offerings to be made before his arrival.(5,000 in 0.31.25) You cannot offer items that were not made at your fortress; the traders do not want your spare goblin harvest clothes.

'''''Note:''' There are currently no benefits to offering goods to your king; the game developers have stated that this is to be changed in future versions.'' ("''Req174, REASON FOR OFFERING, (Future): There's no point of offering goods to your own king right now.)"''

Unless you are looking for [[fun]], under no conditions should you offer or trade items which are wooden or used wood in their creation (glass, for example) to [[elves]], as this will insult the traders, and may cause them to leave or even damage relations enough to provoke a war between you and the elven civilization you traded with. They will be equally insulted by you trading back their wood-related items - their refusal to accept back their wooden items is probably a bug which will be removed in a later release, though this has not been verified. It is also worth noting that in-game the only way to acquire wood is by chopping down trees, so it is likely that the elves have developed a method of growing and acquiring wood without killing trees which will be included in later development.

== Miscellaneous Trading Advice ==

* Several small trades, exiting the trade window each time, will increase the Broker's relevant skills during the early game.
* Food inside the Trade Depot can go bad. Have a food stockpile nearby so you can quickly haul goods inside.
* Thieves and thieving critters tend to follow caravans. Expect assaults and intruders.
* Be careful about asking traders to bring lots of individual lightweight items (such as meat and fish) as it can result in traders taking a very long time to unload their goods. Unless the path to your depot is extremely long, though, this is unlikely to cause significant problems.{{Verify}}
* Create your trading depot inside your fort, preferably in the beginning. Place a 3-tile wide path (which must be free of obstructions such as stairways) to the entrance of the fort and line this with traps; this will help to protect the traders and keep the depot close to your supplies.
* All caravans will bring extra food (meat and edible plants) and wooden logs if the supplies of your fortress are low enough, independent of whether or not you requested them. This does not apply in the case that the weight limit is exceeded by (other) items you requested. The supply situation, as observed by traders, is based solely on the number of unforbidden items in your fortress, whether stockpiled or utilized in buildings (such as wooden axles, water wheels, windmills, or workshops); thus, it is possible to trick caravans into thinking your supplies are low by {{L|forbid}}ding all of your relevant stocks immediately prior to their arrival.  This also seems to apply to elven caravans bringing {{L|cloth}} (except that cloth that's turned into {{L|clothing}}, {{L|bag}}s or {{L|rope}} isn't counted). So if you want elven caravans to ''stop'' bringing cloth, buy up all the cloth that the first few caravans bring and stash them somewhere.
* Define your trade depot as a burrow. When traders arrive, you can add your broker or another dwarf, perhaps one you want to train in trading, to the burrow. They will head to the depot immediately, and stay there until you remove them from the burrow.

== Caravans ==
Each friendly race will send a caravan per year, linked to one season, which is autumn for dwarves, summer for humans, spring for elves. In rare cases, goblins will show up in winter.{{verify}} However, in the first year only a dwarven caravan will arrive, although it will tend to arrive later than mid-autumn, unlike previous versions {{verify}}. Caravans will only show up if that race considers the fortress site accessible (as denoted on the embark screen), with the exception of dwarves, who always arrive unless they are extinct.{{verify}} Caravans appear to enter the map from a random direction which does not coincide with the relative direction of the originating {{L|civilization}}, and they may appear from different directions or z-levels each year. Caravans may leave without trading if it takes too long to reach the trade depot. Caravans will embark on their journey back exactly one month after their arrival, whether they have succeeded in reaching the depot or not.{{Verify}}

Note that if traders or their animals are prevented from leaving, they will eventually go {{L|insane}}. {{Verify}} [Verified in 31.16 - Locked-in traders go insane, throw off their clothes, eventually attack a dwarf and are put down]

Also worth mention is the pathing behavior of the entire caravan. If one member of the caravan reaches a block in their chosen path (ie. a raised drawbridge that was lowered when they entered the map) the entire caravan will re-path, instead of encountering the obstacle one by one.

== Liaisons ==
{{L|Liaison}}s may be sent with caravans to speak to important dwarves. (THEY WILL SPEAK TO THOSE DWARVES! Even if they have to wait by the bed side in the hospital for months after the caravan left.) They will allow you to choose the type of items that your fortress is interested in, and will focus on bringing more of that kind of item on the next caravan (however those items will also be more expensive). They will also present you with a list of the items they're willing to pay more for, which will be effective upon their next arrival.

Trade agreements can be viewed at a later time through the Civilization menu ({{k|c}}). These trade agreements are cleared when a liaison of the corresponding civilization enters the screen, so they are generally not accessible after the caravan has arrived.

Note that if a liaison is prevented from leaving, they will eventually go {{L|insane}}. {{Verify}}

==== {{L|Dwarves}} ====
:''"May our fortunes rise and fall together"''

The dwarven caravan:
* arrives in {{L|Calendar|autumn}}.
* carries metal bars, {{L|leather}}, weapons and armor, food and booze, and more. Dwarves alone may bring {{L|steel}} and steel goods.
* is well guarded.
* sends a liaison who will speak with the {{L|Expedition leader}}, {{L|Mayor}}, {{L|Baron}}, {{L|Count}}, or {{L|Duke}} to negotiate an import-export agreement (unless the {{L|Monarch}} is present).
* influences the number of immigrants received (if the caravan leaves intact).{{verify}}
* will not cause sieges when repeatedly destroyed or lost.
* is the only caravan to arrive during a fortress' first year.
* always arrives regardless of embark location, as long as the dwarven civilization is not extinct.{{verify}}
* cannot have its goods seized from the trade menu.
* may not arrive if your civilization lacks any notable figures.

==== {{L|elf|Elves}} ====
[[Image:Evil_elves.png|thumb|400px|A typical elven caravan.]]

The elven caravan:
* arrives in the {{L|Calendar|spring}}.
* carries {{L|cloth}}, {{L|rope}}s, various above-ground seeds, {{L|plant}}s and their byproducts, {{L|log}}s, {{L|wood}}en goods & {{L|weapon}}s, clothing and {{L|armor}}, and may carry tame exotic {{L|creature}}s.
* is unguarded.
* does not accept some items in trade:

Elven traders do not like to be offered any tree byproducts. Forbidden items include:

* {{L|Wood}}en items (including subterranean mushrooms such as {{L|tower-cap}}s)
* Items derived from wood - {{L|ash}} and {{L|charcoal}}, as well as {{L|lye}}, {{L|potash}}, and {{L|pearlash}}
* Items made from clear and crystal {{L|glass}} (due to the {{L|pearlash}} used) - green glass appears to be perfectly acceptable
* Items {{L|decoration|decorated}} with any of the above materials
* {{L|Obsidian}} shortswords (since they have wooden handles)
* {{L|Soap}} (made with {{L|lye}})

Offering or trading forbidden items will cause the mood of the trader to drop rapidly, causing them to refuse to trade any more that season and leave immediately. Additionally you will be called uncouth, crude, and barbaric for not understanding their customs.

However, {{L|stone}} and {{L|metal}} items, even when {{L|charcoal}} is used in production, are acceptable. Items made from {{L|silk}} are acceptable, as are all non-wooden plant-derived products such as {{L|cloth}} and {{L|thread}}. Items made of bone (totems too), horn, shell or leather are acceptable, so are meat and fish. You can also transport your goods to the {{L|trade depot}} in a wooden {{L|bin}}, as long as you do not try to sell the bin. Living animals are acceptable, as long as the {{L|cage}} or {{L|trap}} is not made of {{L|wood}}.

Be especially careful with reselling decorated items from other caravans, as non-wood/glass items may have decorations of wood or clear/crystal glass. All such items that elven caravans sell are also unacceptable to sell back to elves, as the dwarves have no means of proving that they were made in an "elf kosher" way — and all dwarves know that elves have terrible memory.

==== {{L|Human}}s ====
The human caravan:
* arrives in {{L|Calendar|summer}}.
* carries metal bars, sand, {{L|leather}}, cloth, food and booze, ropes, waterskins, quivers, backpacks, bronze weapons and (too large) clothing and armor, cages and a few domestic animals.
* moderately guarded.

==== {{L|Goblin}}s{{Verify}} ====
A goblin caravan ''may'' arrive if your civilization is at peace with the goblins.

The goblin caravan:
*will arrive every season, four times per year{{verify}}
*unguarded
*brings mostly food and cloth
*does not send a liaison or a guild representative
*does not make import/export agreements

== Destruction ==
If caravans are destroyed (intentionally or unintentionally), the items may remain for use. Traders caught in a {{L|cave-in}} will flee as if they were attacked, but will leave all the items dropped by the caravan behind. Pack animals carrying items are affected just like a normal tamed {{L|mule}} and must be killed in the cave-in for them to drop items on the ground. It is however much more likely that the pack animals will only be stunned or rendered unconscious, and flee shortly after recovering from the hit.

While caravans can defend themselves, they don't like being ambushed. An encounter with unfriendly creatures resulting in the death of any merchant or pack animal will cause them to retreat and forget about trading with you for the season. Repeated caravan destruction (intentional or unintentional) will strain diplomatic relations and may result in a {{L|siege}}.

== Caravan Delay ==
If a caravan has arrived at your trade depot and is unable to leave for about six months after they arrived, the merchants and animals will go insane. This can result in a bunch of merchants attacking your dwarves, or just standing around moping until they starve to death. It is not known for certain if this hurts diplomatic relations, but most likely it's the same as any case where the entire caravan fails to return home.{{Verify}}

If you have locked the caravan into your fortress to hold out against a siege, it's a good idea to station a squad of soldiers near the trade depot in case the merchants {{L|Insanity#Types|go berserk}}. You may also want to make the depot a restricted area to encourage civilians to go around it. Alternatively, you can design the trade depot using drawbridges, so that it can be sealed off from the rest of the fortress during a siege.

If you want the merchants to leave safely, you can build four or more tunnels to each corner of the map, connected to your fortress only by drawbridges. As long as there is no other way to enter and exit your fortress, invaders and merchants will both go towards any tunnel that you activate. You can lock the merchants into the trade depot, and then open a tunnel entrance on one side of the map to make the invaders head towards that tunnel. When they get close to it, you can close it, and then open the entrance on the other side of the map, and let the traders out of the depot. If your fortress and depot are in the middle of the map, this will give the traders quite a head-start to get away.{{Verify}}

Caravan guards cannot be starved, dehydrated, or driven to insanity if prevented from leaving, their employers and animals will however.

== Bugs ==

*No one brings wagons, even if there is a clear path to your depot. {{bug|197}}
*Wild animals cannot be traded; when a dwarf attempts to move the caged animal to the Depot, the creature is set free.Only aggressive animals?
*If your {{L|hospital}} isn't already stocked with the specified amount of thread/cloth, your dwarves will carry off as much from the caravan as they need to fill it. {{Bug|66}}
*Caravans show up very late in the season. {{Bug|1756}}
*If you order your military to kill merchants from your own civilization, your soldiers will simultaneously become members ''and'' enemies of the fortress, resulting in a civil war within your fortress. When this happens, all current members of the fortress (excluding incoming migrants) will turn on each other yet they will still be seen as normal working dwarves in the status screens. This will only last for those who were alive ''during'' the attack, they will always be hostile to everyone including incoming migrants (yet they still do their jobs/ follow military orders and work as dwarves although they will interrupt other's work. They will not be shown as enemies in the Units screen).

== Exploits ==

*If you destroy the Depot while they are unloaded you will get the leaving message but they will leave before the building is completely destroyed, so they will not reclaim any of their stuff because it is not available until the building is fully deconstructed. However any animals they had caged will only become friendly, you won't actually own them.

If you wait some time (2-3 months{{verify}}), you can "claim" animals by linking a lever to the cage and opening it, the animals will be released in a tamed state. Check the 'u'nit screen before releasing them; if the creatures still show as Merchant creatures, they will wander off the map when released; if they show as Tame creatures, they will stay once released.

v0.31:Mining

2011-06-09T17:11:50Z

RadGH: /* Notes */

{{quality|Fine|07:07, 19 January 2011 (UTC)}}
{{Labor
| labor = Mining
| skill = * {{L|Miner}}
| tasks =
* Dig
}}
{{av}}

'''Mining''' is an essential part of building a fort in Dwarf Fortress. There are several reasons you might want to mine, such as {{L|exploratory mining|searching}} for various {{L|stone|stone types}}, or simply to create the basic tunnels and {{L|room}}s in your fort.

There are several types of jobs associated with this skill:
* '''Mining''' removes the section of the wall while preserving both the ceiling and the floor.
* '''Channeling''' removes the section of the wall, the floor and if possible places a ramp one level below.
* '''Ramps''' replaces the section with a upward ramp, also removing the tile and floor one level above.
* '''Stairs''' builds upward (or downward) stairs.

Mining can only be done in pre-existing stone or soil; built {{L|wall}}, {{L|stairs}} or {{L|ramp|ramps}} cannot be mined. These must be removed using the 'remove construction' option ({{K|d}}, {{K|n}})

== Making a dwarf a miner ==

# Specify your dwarf to be a miner via {{K|v}}iew, {{K|p}}ref, {{K|l}}abor.
# Select "Mining" using {{K|+}} or {{K|-}}, then press {{K|enter}}.
A {{L|miner}} also requires an available {{L|pick}}. A dwarf's agility and mining skill affect how quickly they mine.

Selecting the mining labor will disable the {{L|wood cutting}} and {{L|hunting}} labors, as they all involve the usage of different tools.

Digging in dirt can be a good way of leveling miners up.

== Designating the area to be mined ==

# Press {{K|d}}esignate to bring up the {{L|Designations}} menu.
# Highlight the requested action by pressing:
#* {{K|d}} for mining
#* {{K|h}} for channeling
#* {{K|r}} for an upward ramp
#* {{K|u}} for stairs towards the upper level
#* {{K|j}} for stairs towards the lower level
#* {{K|i}} for stairs in both directions
# Move the cursor to the starting point, then press {{K|enter}}. You should see a green flashing cross symbol indicating that it's in Selection Mode.
# Move the cursor to another point to define the opposite corners of a rectangle, press {{K|enter}} again. A yellow area should now be highlighted, indicating the area to be mined. Tiles can also be designated by using the mouse and left-clicking. This is particularly handy when you want to designate the same tile on several z-levels, typically to create up/down stairs. Leftclick and hold while moving through the z-levels.

==Mining Warm/Damp Stone==
When designating any digging operation, warm and damp tiles will flash, indicating magma or water in adjacent tiles. Miners can dig these safely, provided an escape route. Channeling and ramping designations involve two operations, and your dwarf will be submerged in the fluid when done. Unskilled swimmers can reach an exit ramp out of water if near enough, but magma will certainly cost your miner's life (the flow from either can knock dwarves off ledges, or naturally {{L|flood}} the fortress.)

==Training Mining==
Mining skill is important for two reasons: First, it allows miners to dig faster. Second, a higher skill increases the chance that mining will produce a stone, lump of ore, or gem. A legendary miner will always produce a resource unless they are drowsy, hungry, or thirsty.

Dwarves gain mining experience for each tile mined, be it stone, ore, gem, or soil. Soil is mined extremely quickly and is the fastest way to train miners. Since the skill of mining also is used in combat, a dwarf with mining enabled that is carrying a pick will increase their mining skill through combat drills. This process is much faster than learning by digging through stone, but not nearly as fast as learning by digging through soil.

==How to cancel a mining operation==
If you placed a designated area for mining but want to cancel the mining (for example if you approached [[damp stone]]) simply go to Designations {{K|d}} and select Remove Designation {{K|x}}. Then select the starting point of the area you want to cancel with {{K|enter}}, move to the ending point and confirm again with {{K|enter}}.

== Notes ==
To create a channel with no downward ramps, you have to mine out the area underneath the channel first, or manually designate the ramps created for removal afterwards {{K|d}} -> {{K|z}}. If you wish for these channels to be completely inaccessible from the outside, channel out the access-point (downward staircase). Another (more complicated) way of removing any access to the moat is to replace the dug out ramps with constructed ones and creating a cave-in with constructed floors. Rampless channels are an effective substitute for walls against melee enemies that cannot fly, and they can be dug out far faster than a wall can be built. However, channels offer no defense against archers or dragonbreath.

== See also ==
* {{L|Map tile}}s – Different types of walled, floor and open spaces.
* {{L|Caverns}} – Large underground tunnel systems.
* {{L|Exploratory mining}} – Mining focused on finding valuable {{L|stone}}.
* {{L|Soil}} – A list of soil types.
* {{L|Stone}} – A list of different types of stones and ores left behind from mining.
* {{L|Smoothing}} – Increase fortress value and dwarf happiness by improving the quality of your rough-stone mineshafts.

v0.31:Mining

2011-06-09T17:02:25Z

RadGH: /* See also */ Added smoothing, maybe engraving should go here too.

{{quality|Fine|07:07, 19 January 2011 (UTC)}}
{{Labor
| labor = Mining
| skill = * {{L|Miner}}
| tasks =
* Dig
}}
{{av}}

'''Mining''' is an essential part of building a fort in Dwarf Fortress. There are several reasons you might want to mine, such as {{L|exploratory mining|searching}} for various {{L|stone|stone types}}, or simply to create the basic tunnels and {{L|room}}s in your fort.

There are several types of jobs associated with this skill:
* '''Mining''' removes the section of the wall while preserving both the ceiling and the floor.
* '''Channeling''' removes the section of the wall, the floor and if possible places a ramp one level below.
* '''Ramps''' replaces the section with a upward ramp, also removing the tile and floor one level above.
* '''Stairs''' builds upward (or downward) stairs.

Mining can only be done in pre-existing stone or soil; built {{L|wall}}, {{L|stairs}} or {{L|ramp|ramps}} cannot be mined. These must be removed using the 'remove construction' option ({{K|d}}, {{K|n}})

== Making a dwarf a miner ==

# Specify your dwarf to be a miner via {{K|v}}iew, {{K|p}}ref, {{K|l}}abor.
# Select "Mining" using {{K|+}} or {{K|-}}, then press {{K|enter}}.
A {{L|miner}} also requires an available {{L|pick}}. A dwarf's agility and mining skill affect how quickly they mine.

Selecting the mining labor will disable the {{L|wood cutting}} and {{L|hunting}} labors, as they all involve the usage of different tools.

Digging in dirt can be a good way of leveling miners up.

== Designating the area to be mined ==

# Press {{K|d}}esignate to bring up the {{L|Designations}} menu.
# Highlight the requested action by pressing:
#* {{K|d}} for mining
#* {{K|h}} for channeling
#* {{K|r}} for an upward ramp
#* {{K|u}} for stairs towards the upper level
#* {{K|j}} for stairs towards the lower level
#* {{K|i}} for stairs in both directions
# Move the cursor to the starting point, then press {{K|enter}}. You should see a green flashing cross symbol indicating that it's in Selection Mode.
# Move the cursor to another point to define the opposite corners of a rectangle, press {{K|enter}} again. A yellow area should now be highlighted, indicating the area to be mined. Tiles can also be designated by using the mouse and left-clicking. This is particularly handy when you want to designate the same tile on several z-levels, typically to create up/down stairs. Leftclick and hold while moving through the z-levels.

==Mining Warm/Damp Stone==
When designating any digging operation, warm and damp tiles will flash, indicating magma or water in adjacent tiles. Miners can dig these safely, provided an escape route. Channeling and ramping designations involve two operations, and your dwarf will be submerged in the fluid when done. Unskilled swimmers can reach an exit ramp out of water if near enough, but magma will certainly cost your miner's life (the flow from either can knock dwarves off ledges, or naturally {{L|flood}} the fortress.)

==Training Mining==
Mining skill is important for two reasons: First, it allows miners to dig faster. Second, a higher skill increases the chance that mining will produce a stone, lump of ore, or gem. A legendary miner will always produce a resource unless they are drowsy, hungry, or thirsty.

Dwarves gain mining experience for each tile mined, be it stone, ore, gem, or soil. Soil is mined extremely quickly and is the fastest way to train miners. Since the skill of mining also is used in combat, a dwarf with mining enabled that is carrying a pick will increase their mining skill through combat drills. This process is much faster than learning by digging through stone, but not nearly as fast as learning by digging through soil.

==How to cancel a mining operation==
If you placed a designated area for mining but want to cancel the mining (for example if you approached [[damp stone]]) simply go to Designations {{K|d}} and select Remove Designation {{K|x}}. Then select the starting point of the area you want to cancel with {{K|enter}}, move to the ending point and confirm again with {{K|enter}}.

== Notes ==
To create a channel with no downward ramps, you have to mine out the area underneath the channel first, or manually designate the ramps created for removal afterwards. If you wish for these channels to be completely inaccessible from the outside, channel out the access-point (downward staircase). Another (more complicated) way of removing any access to the moat is to replace the dug out ramps with constructed ones and creating a cave-in with constructed floors. Rampless channels are an effective substitute for walls against melee enemies that cannot fly, and they can be dug out far faster than a wall can be built. However, channels offer no defense against archers or dragonbreath.

== See also ==
* {{L|Map tile}}s – Different types of walled, floor and open spaces.
* {{L|Caverns}} – Large underground tunnel systems.
* {{L|Exploratory mining}} – Mining focused on finding valuable {{L|stone}}.
* {{L|Soil}} – A list of soil types.
* {{L|Stone}} – A list of different types of stones and ores left behind from mining.
* {{L|Smoothing}} – Increase fortress value and dwarf happiness by improving the quality of your rough-stone mineshafts.

v0.31:Sample Starting Builds

2011-06-09T16:41:42Z

RadGH: /* The It-Do-Yourself Steel Option weApon Pair Strategy or TIDYSOAPS */

The following are sample starting builds provided by users. They may be as specific as full skill and item specifications with a file that you can copy and paste to use yourself, or as general as suggestions on how you might set up your starting build.

===Ashery===
*Military: 5 armor use, 5 dodge. Possibly a mix of dodge and shield use instead of max dodge, but that's up in the air. Set to start training the moment goods are hauled inside the fort's entrance. Also does woodcutting as needed.
*Doctor/Leader: 1 appraise, 2 diagnose, 2 bone doctor, 2 surgeon, 2 wound dresser, 1 suture. Also serves as one of my primary miners and, once replacement miners come, the fort's first bookkeeper as well.
*Farmer/Cook: 4 farming, 5 cooking, 1 armorsmith. Does most of the early hauling grunt work, but eventually is restricted only to food related activities. No mining is done in order to keep armorsmithing as the highest moodable skill.
*Farmer/Brewer: 4 farming, 5 brewing, 1 armorsmith. Same as the cook.
*Weapon/Armorsmith: 5 armorsmith, 5 weaponsmith. Does a sizable amount of the early mining, but is removed from duty before the mining skill gets too high.
*Mason: 5 mason, 5 building design. Can help out with mining if necessary, but is usually busy constructing buildings or helping the farmers haul goods.
*Carpenter/Mechanic: 5 carpentry, 5 mechanic. An odd mix, but mechanisms are my primary export.

===Tarran===
*(every skill has five points put into it)
*2 miners/engravers (when they are not mining they are engraving)
*1 mason/carpenter (deals with all that stuff)
*1 mechanic/stonecrafter (when he is not making mechanisms he is making crafts)
*1 woodcutter/architect (when not cutting wood he is designing buildings)
*1 grower/brewer (deals with all my needs this early in the game)
*1 adequate armorsmith, weaponsmith, and metalcrafter. novice furnace operator, and wood burner (remove wood burner if you have magma)

===Ancient Enemy===
*Leader with all his points distributed through negotiation/bookkeeper/appraiser/etc.
*3 dwarves with proficient mining
*1 proficient grower
*1 proficient brewer
*1 proficient cook

===Proteus===
*Leader/Miner: 6-7 points into things important to become leader and broker (appraisal, negotiation, judge of intent, organizing and others, all at least with 1 pt), rest into mining
*Doc/Recordkeeper +at least another productive job: 1-2pts into diagnostics, 1pt in each other medical skill, 1pt in recordkeeping, rest into 1-2 jobs
*Cook: 4-5pts in cooking, 2-4pts in brewing, rest in fish cleaning and butchery
*Farmer: around 3-4pts in Growing, at least 1pt in milling, plant processing and brewing
*Crafter: Usually 5pts in stone crafting, rest in other crafting jobs (although that might change, as now bone carving has become next to worthless)
*Clothier: 2-4pts in leatherworking and clothier, rest into weaving and tanning
*Builder: Most of his points into Masonry, Engraving and Mechanics, as well as a few points into Carpenter (if no other dwarf already has pts in this job)

===Cronus===
*Miners/Mechanics: 2 dwarves with max points in mining and mechanics; get the fort, then those traps, up quickly.
*Woodcutter/Carpenter: points in woodcutting and carpentry; chop during initial dig then start pumping out beds and barrels
*Farmer/Brewer: points in farming and brewing; get the wheat and helmets in and brew during the off-season. Can also serve as butcher in a pinch.
*Crafter: points dispersed into stonecrafting, bonecarving, weaving, and leatherworking.
*Mason/Architect: points into masonry and building design. Allows a focus on walls, doors, and bridges.
*Leader/Trader: spread points among appraisal, negotiator, conversationalist, consoler, and comedian.

===Jake Grey===
* The Hunter: Ambusher, Marksdwarf, Hammerdwarf, Shield/Armour User, Dodger. Number two source of protein and useful military backup.
* The Catering Team: One Grower/Butcher/Fish Cleaner/Tanner and one Grower/Cook/Brewer/Plant Gatherer/Thresher. Usually get the Record Keeper and Appraiser points as well, since they have probably the safest jobs, and some points in mining to get things dug faster.
* The Artisans: One Carpenter/Woodcutter/Bone Carver, one Miner/Mason/Stone Crafter/Architect and one Miner/Metalsmith/Weaponsmith/Armoursmith/Furnace Operator. The blacksmith usually gets the Organiser points, as I don't embark with an anvil.
* "Dr Fisher": Adequate Diagnostician, Wound Dresser, Suturer, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Novice Fisherdwarf. The world's happiest on-call GP, feeds the fortress almost single-handed while waiting for someone to get injured.

===The Stoners===

The Dwarves:
*Miner/Stonecrafter (mines and makes pots and crafts if needed)
*Miner/Mechanic (mines and makes levers or traps if needed)
*Mason/Building Designer (makes all the furniture and buildings)
*Carpenter/Woodcutter (cuts wood, makes beds, bins, barrels, and cages if needed)
*Weaponsmith/Armorsmith (will provide good quality gear for your militia)
*Grower/Brewer (farms, makes booze, and does most of the hauling early)
*Grower/Cook (farms, cooks food, and does most of the hauling early)

Supplies:
*2 Picks
*1 Battleaxe
*1 Anvil
*60 Booze
*30 Meat/Fish/Eggs
*5-10 of each seed
*Spend the rest of the points on anything else you want like animals and ores. Copper ores are a good choice since they're very cheap.

Notes;
*After hauling your wagon supplies indoors, have your smith work nonstop making fuel, smelting ores, and making weapons/armor. By the time your first migrants arrive you should have a full set of armor and a weapon for each. If not have the migrants help the smith out with smelting. Then draft them. By starting training early and having good gear your militia should do well.
*Trading early on will mostly consist of stone crafts and any extra goods you have lying around like plump helmet roasts for example.

=== BillyBob and the Rock Nuts ===
{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="5"
!Profession
!Skills
|-
|FarmerBrewer
|Grower-5, Brewer-5
|-
|MinerMason
|Mining-5, Masonry-2, Engraving-3
|-
|MinerJeweller
|Mining-5, Masonry-1, GemCutting-4
|-
|LumberjackHerbalist
|Woodcutting-4,Herbalism-3, Axedwarf, Armor, Carpentry
|-
|CookDoctor
|Cook-3, Threshing-2, Diagnose, DressWounds, Suture, SetBones, Surgery
|-
|CarpenterLeader
|Carpentry-4, Leadership-3, Negotiate, Appraisal, Record Keeper
|-
|CrafterArchitect
|Stonecraft-5, Building Designer-4, Mechanic
|}
The lumberjack is the only one that _has_ to go outside, and all the rest can work indoors. Two main sources of income are farming (Sweet Pods->Dwarven Syrup) and Rock Crafting (to buy elven wood/barrels).

<pre>
[PROFILE]
[TITLE:BillyBob and the Rock Nuts]
[SKILL:1:MINING:5]
[SKILL:1:DETAILSTONE:3]
[SKILL:1:MASONRY:2]
[SKILL:2:MINING:5]
[SKILL:2:MASONRY:1]
[SKILL:2:CUTGEM:4]
[SKILL:3:WOODCUTTING:4]
[SKILL:3:CARPENTRY:1]
[SKILL:3:HERBALISM:3]
[SKILL:3:AXE:1]
[SKILL:3:ARMOR:1]
[SKILL:4:CARPENTRY:4]
[SKILL:4:NEGOTIATION:1]
[SKILL:4:APPRAISAL:1]
[SKILL:4:RECORD_KEEPING:1]
[SKILL:4:LEADERSHIP:3]
[SKILL:5:BREWING:5]
[SKILL:5:PLANT:5]
[SKILL:6:PROCESSPLANTS:2]
[SKILL:6:COOK:3]
[SKILL:6:DRESS_WOUNDS:1]
[SKILL:6:DIAGNOSE:1]
[SKILL:6:SURGERY:1]
[SKILL:6:SET_BONE:1]
[SKILL:6:SUTURE:1]
[SKILL:7:STONECRAFT:5]
[SKILL:7:MECHANICS:1]
[SKILL:7:DESIGNBUILDING:4]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_PICK:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:2:WEAPON:ITEM_WEAPON_AXE_BATTLE:INORGANIC:COPPER]
[ITEM:1:ANVIL:NONE:INORGANIC:IRON]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_WHEAT_CAVE:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:DRINK]
[ITEM:11:DRINK:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:DRINK]
[ITEM:5:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:SEED]
[ITEM:12:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:SEED]
[ITEM:11:SEEDS:NONE:PLANT_MAT:POD_SWEET:SEED]
[ITEM:11:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:MARMOT_HOARY:STOMACH]
[ITEM:11:PLANT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:MUSHROOM_HELMET_PLUMP:STRUCTURAL]
[ITEM:1:THREAD:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:1:CLOTH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BOX:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:2:CHAIN:NONE:PLANT_MAT:GRASS_TAIL_PIG:THREAD]
[ITEM:3:BUCKET:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:SPLINT:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:2:CRUTCH:NONE:PLANT_MAT:ALDER:WOOD]
[ITEM:15:MEAT:NONE:CREATURE_MAT:WARTHOG:MUSCLE]
[PET:2:DOG:FEMALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:1:DOG:MALE:TRAINED_WAR]
[PET:2:CAT:FEMALE:STANDARD]
[PET:1:CAT:MALE:STANDARD]
</pre>

===Tatter's Ragtime Band===

Designed to pair important time-consuming skills with important but quickly completed skills, moodable skills with non-moodable skills, and generally embark only with skills that can't be trained from "unskilled" quickly (for example, no mining skills). Tailored to minimize bugs in versions 31.12.
*Boss: 5 points in Armor User, 1 point in Appraiser, Negotiator, Judge of Intent, Record Keeper, and Organizer. Will be your chief miner, militia commander, and all-around noble early on, and almost certainly will become expedition leader as well. As other dwarves arrive with mining and/or noble skills (even if they aren't as high-level as the Boss's), replace the Boss with them as soon as possible, to relieve his workload. Keep the Boss as your militia commander and broker, mining mostly to train his skill with a pick, until a dwarf with better skills for these tasks arrives. If you embark with dogs, give the Boss the Animal Trainer labor as well and have him train them into War Dogs for extra protection. Note: As of 31.12, training seems to finally be working as intended, making axe/sword/hammer/spear dwarves feasable. Swap the Armor User with any other weapon skills if you like, but Armor User seems to be the slowest skill to develop, and I personally prefer to stick with it for the Boss. Plus, picks being pretty crummy weapons will help if you decide to make a Sherrif or Captain of the Guard with poor weapon skills so punishing "crime" won't result in undue maiming. (Moodable skill: Mining)
*Doc: 5 points in Carpentry, 1 point in Diagnostician, Bone Doctor, Surgeon, Suturer, and Wound Dresser. A doctor that can make his own beds, splints, and crutches (and tables and cabinets, if you have an excess of wood). Make him Chief Medical Dwarf right away, but replace him as soon as a better Diagnostician comes along. Make him a Plant Gatherer and Wood Cutter as well (until immigrants with better skills arrive), to give him something to do when he has nothing to build and nobody to heal. (Moodable skill: Carpentry)
*Rock Farmer: 5 points in Grower, 5 points in Gem Cutting. Farming is more difficult to set up than it used to be, but no less time consuming. Gem Cutting takes little time and provides the fortress with the highest-value, lowest-weight trade items you're likely to find early on. You can also make him a Plant Processor and/or Miller if you need the materials for emergency mood satisfaction and/or cooking, but these skills should be provided at higher levels by immigrants fairly quickly, and cloth isn't critical for an early fortress (hunt and butcher wildlife with your militia instead, and make bags/clothes out of leather). Give him the Mining labor at least, though, as all dwarves who aren't Wood Cutting or Hunting should be available as backup miners and emergency militia. (Moodable skill: Gem Cutting)
*Embalmer: 5 points in Brewing, 5 points in Leatherworking. Makes leather bags and armor early in the game, alcohol later. Assign him the Tanner and Butcher labors as well, until immigrants with better skills arrive, and the Miner labor, for the reasons stated above. (Moodable skill: Leatherworker)
*Iron Chef: 5 points in Cooking, 5 points in Weaponsmithing. Makes the steel when he isn't making a meal. Assign him the Furnace Operator and Wood Burner labors, until immigrants with better skills arrive, so he can make the raw materials of his craft, and the Miner labor on general principles. If you're unlucky with immigrants, or determined to make additional forges or metal armor right away, you can give him the Armorer and Blacksmith labors as well. (Moodable skill: Weaponsmith)
*Architect: 5 points in Mason, 5 points in Building Designer. Unlocks all buildings from the start, and will build nice stone ones that improve dwarven moods. The sheer amount of construction needed to build a secure and functional initial fort quickly may make it a good idea to turn OFF all labors for the Architect except Mason and Building Designer, at least until everyone and everything is safely underground. If you ever do finish building everthing you need, give him back any labors you turned off, and add Engraver (train him by smoothing stone first) and Miner labors as well. (Moodable skill: Mason)
*Mech Pilot: 5 points in Mechanic, 5 points in any skill you want. I used to think Ballistae were awesome, but sadly they only work well on paper, unless built (and crewed) in large numbers. If you still want to use them, putting his 5 points in Siege Engineer is better than Siege Operator, for high quality machines straight away. Build some extra catapults and sling rocks around for training when your dwarves have some free time, if you still want to use siege engines. Otherwise, you can give him a quick crafting skill, possibly one of the job skills the other dwarves would be training up from Dabbling (Armorer or Blacksmith would probably be the best). Don't attach a seriously time-consuming skill like Wood Burner or Furnace Operator, though, because this dwarf should mostly be making mechanisms for your cage traps. (Moodable skill: Mechanic)
Crafting and Gem Setter skills should be available through immigrants, but the Stonecraft skill can be trained up easily and cheaply from nothing by any dwarf that spends much time idle, if you absolutely must have something quickly. Fishing and Hunting can likewise usually wait until immigrants arrive with these skills. Chasing wolves around with your militia can be frustrating, but eventually one of them will make the mistake of trying to stand and fight, and even simple clothes can deflect most animals' teeth, claws, and horns (just don't go after bears without metal armor!).

Recommended embark items:
*1+ copper picks (use any leftover embark points to buy up to 5 spares)
*1 iron anvil, to guarantee you can make more picks quickly.
*1 wooden training axe, or battle axe if the "training axes can chop down trees" exploit is ever fixed. This will keep you from being left without fuel for the forge if you run out of wood, but can be skipped if you're embarking to an area where there are no trees (or if you're going to DIY it).
*1+ of each type of seed, mostly for the bags, as you will probably be surface farming with gathered plants until the caravans arrive anyhow. Note that quarry bush seeds are edible, and dwarves will often consume your whole initial stockpile before you can plant them.
*35-40 units of meat/fish, one from each different animal or fish that is available to your culture for 2 embark points per unit. This will give you enough meat to keep your dwarves fed until the first caravan arrives, and the maximum number of free barrels as well. Meat is generally preferred by dwarves over organs that aren't prepared in a kitchen first (meaning the barrels will be empty and available for other uses faster). Note that some animals may not have meat available (vermin like cave spiders, for example), in which case organs are preferable to nothing at all. Note that dwarven nutritional needs seem to have increased since the 31.12 patch; the original recommendation of 25-30 food probably won't even last you through summer, and getting this minimum might not even last through autumn without farming or hunting some extra.
*31 each of dwarven ale, dwarven beer, and dwarven rum. Dwarven wine will be produced in large quantities on site once subterranean farming is ready to grow Plump Helmets, and this should be enough alcohol to keep your dwarves happy until a caravan arrives with more if you need it. Dwarven alcohol needs have increased a bit too, it seems.
*Anything else that you may need more of than the site can provide right away:
**Wood, if the biomes are devoid of trees (glacier, mountain, desert, etc.).
**Metal ore, if you have plenty of trees but may need more/better metal than you are likely to find immediately (savage/evil biomes).
**Metal bars, if you need metal but trees are scarce.
**Weapons and armor, if you are mad enough to take on a Terrifying biome.
**Flux stone, if you want to make steel quickly but the embark site lacks chalk, limestone, or dolomite (marble and calcite are normally only found far too deep to be of much early use).
**Dogs, if you want a decent "militia" fairly quickly. Build a kennel and have the Boss train them into War Dogs. One male and the rest females will produce more dogs as quickly as possible.
**Plaster bags, for the hospital. You can usually find some plaster-making stones on site, but turning them into bags of plaster powder for setting bones is a difficult, time consuming, and fuel burning process, until you can build magma kilns. On the other hand, if you aren't expecting serious combat before the caravans arrive, you can usually buy more than you will ever use from them fairly cheap.
**Plump Helmets, as an emergency food/alcohol supply if you anticipate problems making a subterranean farm. Buy in quantities ending in 1, for the maximum number of free barrels. They're quite a bit more expensive than seeds, or other foodstuffs, but their utility makes up for that.

===The It-Do-Yourself Steel Option weApon Pair Strategy or TIDYSOAPS===

This is a power-gaming strategy that can be integrated as a component of a starting build, in lieu of a pair of steel weapons. In the current build, a steel pick costs 660p (embark points), and a steel battle axe costs 1020p. All told, we can get two steel weapons at better {{L|Item quality|quality}} for more or less 312p. The weapons, able to double as logging/mining implements, can give your squishy {{L|Miner|Excavators}} and {{L|Wood cutter|Lumberjacks}} an advantage in battle.

'''Prepare for the journey carefully:'''

At the {{L|Embark}} screen, choose the following items:

* Required
** 3p x 1 unit of {{L|fire-safe}} {{L|stone}} from the Stone category
** 100p x 1 {{L|iron}} {{L|anvil}}
** A distinct lack of {{L|steel}} weapons

* Main, cheapest, most desirable raw materials
** 24p x 2 units of iron {{L|ore}} from the Stone category ({{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, or {{L|Magnetite}})
** 6p x 2 units of {{L|flux}} stone from the Stone category ({{L|Calcite}}, {{L|Chalk}}, {{L|Dolomite}}, {{L|Limestone}}, or {{L|Marble}})
** 3p x 2 units of {{L|Bituminous coal}} from the Stone category
** 0p x3 logs of any type of {{L|wood}}
*** From deconstructing your {{L|Wagon}}
** 0p (No {{L|Skill|skills}} taken)

*'''Recommended''' but optional:140p (4 skills x 35p for embark skills at Proficient: {{L|Furnace operator}}, {{L|Wood burner}}, {{L|Metalsmith}} and {{L|Weaponsmith}})

For a minimum total of '''172p'''. 312p with the skills, and those too will last you a lifetime. It's steel for the price of {{L|bronze}}! What a... steal. *uncomfortable cough* This gives you a savings of up to 1868p, which means you roughly double-and-a-half your embark points.

In comparison, the embark prices are: 2 steel battle axes (2040p), 2 steel picks (1320p), 1 steel battle axe and 1 steel pick (1680p), 2 {{L|copper}} battle axes (136p), 2 copper picks (88p), 1 copper battle axe and 1 copper pick (112p), 2 bronze battle axes (340p), 2 bronze picks (220p), 1 bronze battle axe and 1 bronze pick (280p).

'''For each successive weapon pair: (72p)'''

Also, this build can extend to provide for any number of weapon pairs. One would just need to double all of the raw materials replacing the wood with an extra {{L|Bituminous coal}}. The rough cost is 72p per successive pair. Your only constraint is time and dwarfpower.

*An extra pair of steel weapons:
**24p x 2 units of {{L|iron}} {{L|ore}} from the Stone category ({{L|Hematite}}, {{L|Limonite}}, or {{L|Magnetite}})
**6p x 2 units of {{L|flux}} {{L|stone}} from the Stone category ({{L|Calcite}}, {{L|Chalk}}, {{L|Dolomite}}, {{L|Limestone}}, or {{L|Marble}})
**3p x 4 units of {{L|Bituminous coal}} from the Stone category

'''Substitutes for above grocery lists:'''

Due to extenuating circumstances, such as the variability of the goods your {{L|Civilization|parent civilization}} has
available, some substitutes may be used:

* Substitutes
** Fuel:
*** 3p x 3 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of the Wagon wood
***Don't deconstruct wagon
*** 3p x 5 logs of any type of wood from the Wood category instead of 3 Bituminous coal
**** Make 8 charcoal
*** 10p x 1 units of {{L|fuel|charcoal or coke}} and 1 Bituminous coal instead of wagon wood
**** Don't build wood furnace
*** 10p x 8 units of {{L|fuel|charcoal or coke}} instead of wood + coal
**** Skip wood furnace and coke making
** Single option sub. to save time:
*** 50p x 1 iron bar + 50p x 1 pig iron bar instead of 2 iron ores + 1 flux stone + 1 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood
*** 150p x 2 steel bars instead of 2 iron ore + 2 flux stone + 2 Bituminous coal + 1 log of wood

'''Strike the earth!'''

* Deconstruct the {{L|Wagon}} your {{L|Embark|starting goods}} come in.
* Build a {{L|Wood furnace}} with the fire-safe stone
** Use 3 wood to make '''3''' charcoal
** Deconstruct the furnace

* Build a {{L|Smelter}} using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed furnace
** Smelt 3 bituminous coal (powered with 3 charcoal) --> into 9 units of coke
** Smelt 2 iron ores (powered with 2 coke) --> two iron bars
** Smelt '''ONE''' iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 1 pig iron bar
** Smelt 1 iron bar + 1 pig iron bar + 1 flux stone + 1 coke (powered with 1 coke) --> 2 steel bars
** Deconstruct the smelter

* Build a {{L|Metalsmith's forge}} using the fire-safe stone from the deconstructed smelter + iron anvil
** Using 2 steel (powered with 1 coke) forge 2 weapons
** Deconstruct the forge

* At the end of which, all you will have left relevant to the strategy are:
** A unit of fire-safe rock
** Two steel weapons
** An iron anvil
** Possibly an extra coke

You could then, for instance, embark with several copper picks since pick material doesn't really help actual mining much{{Verify}}, then forge axes. Lots of them. Only 72p per pair. Wowza.
Why buy picks? If you're running this setup it's cheaper to get steel.

User:RadGH

2011-06-06T15:38:08Z

RadGH: Blanked the page

v0.31 Talk:Armor

2011-06-06T15:37:36Z

RadGH: /* Cleanup Request */ new section

==Armor raw changes==
Main armor types have been renamed to "breastplate" and "mail shirt" respectively.
Someone with some understanding of armor RAWs should work on the new page. I had to ask just to learn what the [STEP] tags did.

Breastplates have no LBSTEP nor UBSTEP, and now have a simple [ARMORLEVEL:3] in place of all of the old modifiers. They also have no [VALUE] tag.

:The community is still working on figuring out what all the different variables do(if anything there appear to be some placeholders in different parts of different raws), and how materials effect the results. The current best description is to say that, for armor, adamantine>steel>bronze(bismuth or not)>iron>=copper>everything else and that adding more layers at least doesn't seem to hurt(except for weight/speed considerations). Some have gone a little further than that(http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=53571.msg1151052#msg1151052). --[[User:PencilinHand|PencilinHand]] 00:09, 11 April 2010 (UTC)

::Having worked on the problem some I must point out that there is an important difference between having no LBSTEP or UBSTEP and having zero LBSTEP and UBSTEP. A lot of work still needs to be done, especially with regards to how materials work with armor. Also, could everybody remember to sign their work [http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Community_Portal# like Zorro?] --[[User:PencilinHand|PencilinHand]] 06:20, 30 April 2010 (UTC)

Extensive coverage testing of various armors and UB/LBSTEP reveals some buggy behavior:

-The only way to protect [STANCE], [GRASP], [HEAD], or [UPPERBODY] parts (feet, hands, head, and upperbody) is with armor worn on them specifically(LOWERBODY parts may be protected by armor worn on the UPPERBODY as well as the LOWEBODY).

-[LIMB]s (arms and legs) are correctly protected by armors, pants, gloves, and gauntlets with appropriate UBSTEP and LBSTEP values. For example, lower arms can be protected by body armor with UPSTEP >=2 as well as gloves with LBSTEP>=1.

-Currently(31.03), the ONLY way to protect parts that are not [LIMB]s,[STANCE]s,[GRASP]s,[HEAD]s or [UPPER/LOWERBODY]s parts (such as facial features, toes, fingers, throat, vestigial wings, any cosmetic custom parts, etc)is by exploiting a bug. You need a robe, or a dress; an UPPERBODY armor with UBSTEP:MAX. Armor configured this way will protect all [LIMB]s that are do not qualify for LBSTEP coverage, as well as fingers and toes etc, but it will NOT protect, hands, feet, or heads. Gauntlets, boots, and helms currently protect hands, feet, and heads, but not fingers, toes, or facial features. This is both counter intuitive, and at odds with toady's comments on the subject.

--[[User:Derigo|Derigo]] 05:15, 11 May 2010 (UTC)

Whether or not we know the exact mechanics of the various STEPS, I have added them to the Armor Tables so we can at least have a reference to what armor has what. Also, they are now sortable by those #s, because that was really bugging me.

Does anyone know what the BONE/LEATHER/ETC categories are tracking? Because I think it is a holdover from 40d, but I wasn't going to delete them until I knew for sure. --[[User:Flaede|Flaede]] 10:08, 20 August 2010 (UTC)

=== wooden armor ====
just curious -- how does it rate?

==New armor layering rules==
I added the new rules for layering armor. It is kind of complicated and I only typed it up so it will need to be presented in a more user friendly format at some point but it is past 2 am here so I am going to bed now. Also, we need to confirm that these rules hold for fortress mode. --[[User:PencilinHand|PencilinHand]] 06:20, 30 April 2010 (UTC)

I don't understand something--in the example, you say you can get 2x socks, 2x high boots. But if high boots have size 25 permit 15, how do you get the second pair on? Wouldn't the third rule be violated? – [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:74.104.157.229|74.104.157.229]]
:I suspect he's accepting the fact that a dwarf has two feet - so he'd get one sock and one high boot on one foot, and one sock and one high boot on the other. But that's just my interpretation - I don't try and optimize my fortress-mode armoring any better than "okay, high boots protect more than low boots, so I'll make those instead". --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 07:41, 12 July 2010 (UTC)

==Bugs==
I just thought I'd point out the bar number bug is probably due to the fact that a steel bar is now 150 steel, much like cloth and thread. The smelting reactions require 150 units as input, but the forge reactions appear to be asking for number of bars instead of amount of metal. Input for a breastplate should then be 450 steel instead of 3. --[[User:Dapanman|Dapanman]] 22:00, 1 May 2010 (UTC)
:I tested this by editing the raws; if you multiply all the material size tokens by 150 you get the correct results (breastplates take 3 bars, chain shirts/greaves take 2, etc). So a breastplate should have material size 1350. (And if you don't have enough, it will again misrepresent it as "needs 450 bars" but oh well.) You have to gen a new world though. [[Special:Contributions/96.224.166.17|96.224.166.17]] 02:27, 21 November 2010 (UTC)

Note that for optimal loadout in Fortress mode, be sure to select 'replace clothing' rather than 'over clothing' -- I tried to add breastplate, mail shirt and leather cloak to someone already wearing a shirt, and they'd just spin in 'Pickup Equipment' trying to overload themselves, swapping the mail shirt and breastplate. If you don't mind specifying every piece of garb in their uniform, it's easier if they start naked and you build up from there.

==Toga==
i dont see these on the table, yet i can create them in the '[j]obs' menu, in the leatherworks, and in the clothier's shop in both cloth and silk. surely it should be on there?--[[User:DJ Devil|DJ Devil]] 15:23, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
:i also cant make robes or coats. did anyone check the accuracy of this page before it was put on here..?--[[User:DJ Devil|DJ Devil]] 15:30, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
::Dunno why you can't make robes or coats - for me, my leatherworks has robes as the third choice, coats at fifth, and yes togas at sixth. Cloth has 'em in the same order, and the same for silk. Not in a position to comment on their protective capabilities, me, but they definitely exist. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 16:43, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
:one possible reason could be that i'm still on 0.31.03, but i cant see that mattering too much - surely they didnt take any items out of that particular release which were in 40d, and then put it back in on 0.31.04? that'd be a bit bizarre.. but i cannot make robes or coats anywhere (i.e. not on the 'jobs' menu, or in the leatherworks, or in the clothier's). the list goes as such;
* leather armour (only in the leatherworks)
* dress
* shirt
* tunic
* toga
* vest
* cloak
* leggings (only in the leatherworks)
* trousers
* cap
* helm (only in the leatherworks)
* hood
* glove
* mitten
* sock (only in the clothier's (both materials))
* high boot (only in the leatherworks)
* shoe
very strange..--[[User:DJ Devil|DJ Devil]] 17:43, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
:The clothing objects you're able to make depend on your civilization - if you look, they're all in the raws. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 18:00, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
::sorry, i dont quite understand. by 'civilisation', do you mean the race? i.e. goblin/human/dwarf? or do you mean specifically the settlement my town was created from? and in my raws it has robes and coats in the 'item_armor' file, along with togas, and the other stuff i CAN make.--[[User:DJ Devil|DJ Devil]] 18:15, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
:He does mean "specifically the settlement", although the organization is not settlement-specific. Now that I look more closely, my leatherworks is missing "shirt" and "vest", as is my clothier's shop. So yes, it varies depending on the civilization. You can get an idea of what your chosen civ has access to during the Embark phase. Just go to add a new item, and look at the Bodywear category. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 19:46, 28 May 2010 (UTC)

::I will edit the table to add togas and add a disclaimer about availability being based on civilization. --[[User:PencilinHand|PencilinHand]] 16:50, 12 June 2010 (UTC)

== Metal raws concerning armor ==

What raws are related to how good a metal is as an armor material? [[User:Richards|Richards]] 21:23, 21 June 2010 (UTC)

== Article quality ==

<quote>
Exceptional Quality Articles have ALL of the following characteristics:

Is properly categorized
Has a decent amount of information (is "complete" for the purposes of new players looking for information
</quote>
Source: http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Quality#Tattered#ixzz0vc6YZ2ES

This article is mostly useless for a new play, badly formated for the information it does present, and utterly fails to give a wide range of information. how can this be "exceptional?"

[[Special:Contributions/152.91.9.144|152.91.9.144]] 05:52, 4 August 2010 (UTC)

==Leather vs Chain vs Plate==

Am I missing something, or is listing the distinction in the table between these types of armor an outdated concept? As far as I know, the game doesn't currently use these terms to categorize armor, and some of them don't even make sense anymore, like metal caps being categorized as "leather". Surely the "Armor Level" column covers the concept comprehensively without causing confusion? --[[User:Soronhen|Soronhen]] 16:53, 15 October 2010 (UTC)

== Human-sized armor ==

Is there any issue with dwarves wearing human-made and human-sized armor pieces, e.g., "large cap", "large breastplate"? (If dwarves can wear them, why can't they make them?) Elf-sized armor? And would humans be interested in elf-made armor pieces?
It seems an obvious issue to ask about, but I haven't seen any answers... -- [[User:Maunder|Maunder]] 05:21, 26 October 2010 (UTC)
:Any armor/clothing that is labeled as "large" or "small" cannot be equipped; thus, gear worn by {{L|Human}}s, {{L|Troll}}s, and {{L|Kobold}}s is useful only for melting or for trading. {{L|Goblin}}s and {{L|Elf|Elves}} are the same size as Dwarves, so your dwarves can wear them just fine. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 21:43, 27 October 2010 (UTC)

== Adamantine dress and robe ==

I verified that adamantine dresses and robes will protect everything except hands, feet, and heads. (Including toes, fingers, necks, and noses.) I believe that this makes adamantine robes the mose efficient use of the metal, granting near-immunity to piercing and slashing attacks. [[User:Decius|Decius]] 23:57, 7 November 2010 (UTC)

However, it seems that other materials might be better vs. blunt weapons. It seems that blunt attacks will do damage "through the pig tail fiber cloak" instead of an adamantine dress or shirt. Has anyone tested nonmetals for protection from blunt? [[User:Decius|Decius]] 00:28, 28 April 2011 (UTC)

Arena mode results: Troll fur, pig tail, toad leather, and steel all provide roughly the same protection vs silver whips. Blows would regularly chip bone through the armor, damage organs, and kills were from putting the skull through the brain. A mixture of goblins and dwarves was used, 1v1, competent lasher and no other skills. Fortress mode confirms the adamantine robe hypothesis: Ten pages of fortress mode combat logs of a lasher and axegoblin beating on an unconscious swordsdwarf wearing adamantine robe, gauntlets, helm and high boots. The lasher inflicted massive organ damage, the axegoblin inflicted nothing. Somehow the dwarf managed to survive long enough to be carried to the hospital, and appears to be breathing now. Surprisingly, only the lower body and upper body were targeted during the curbstomp. [[User:Decius|Decius]] 01:47, 28 April 2011 (UTC)

== Changes in 0.31.17? ==

I've just had a strike to a goblin toe deflected by his copper low boot. The article claims that it is impossible due to a bug. Recheck of armor coverage rules is in order.[[File:Foot_toe-deflected.png]]--[[User:Another|Another]] 16:37, 12 November 2010 (UTC)
:You must have updated to the latest version. 31.17 made toes and fingers covered by boots and gauntlets respectively.--[[User:Furlion|Furlion]] 17:24, 12 November 2010 (UTC)

== Modding Gloves ==

I'm working on a mod to be able to produce armor in adventure mode -- but I've hit a snag. Gloves of all sorts are in "left" and "right" pairs. I can't figure out the raws to stop producing "cheetah leather glove" as opposed to "cheetah leather right glove". Anyone happen to know this? --[[User:Aescula|Aescula]] 02:31, 27 November 2010 (UTC)

== Growing attached ==
One of my dwarves just grew attached his the left mitten. This means that armor probably can also be named like a weapon. I'll do mre research. --[[User:Blur|Blur]] 08:51, 27 December 2010 (UTC)

== quality of armor? ==

I was wondering, how does the crafted quality of armor affect its performance in combat? --Mark 20:28, 21 January 2011 (UTC)

== Foreign Boots ==

I was preparing my military uniform, when it said high boots were foreign. They weren't foreign in my other save which is the same version. I have v.31.18. What's going on? --[[User:Joejr50|Joejr50]] 21:53, 9 February 2011 (UTC)

:Some dwarf civs can make high boots, some can only make low boots. You got a low-boot one. [[Special:Contributions/220.253.80.140|220.253.80.140]] 10:03, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

== Size & Permit ==

These are confusing... e.g., the helmet + 2 caps example. Why is this allowed? The sizes, added together, are 50. This is not LESS than the helmets size + permit. Wouldn't this violate the 2nd rule?

Also, isn't the first rule identical to the last rule? (If an item is not a layer:cover item, the last rule applies, if it is a layer:cover item, both the first & the last rule apply, but will always evaluate the same, as written.) - Morik 2011-03-28

:The examples were quite confusing, and poorly written. I discussed the topic on the DF forums, and have posted a new section explaining the equipment process.
:However, the information you are referring to may still hold some useful information, so I am leaving it intact. Someone more experienced may want to clean it up. --[[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 15:35, 6 June 2011 (UTC)

== Equipping Clothing ==

I added a verify link in hopes that someone can confirm the equipping logic for the following line:

"If two items share the same permit value, the highest size item will be equipped first." --[[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 15:12, 6 June 2011 (UTC)

== Cleanup Request ==

Many of the examples following my new "Equipping Clothing" section are unclear, poorly written, and/or redundant information. While the information held there may still have use, it might be worth cleaning up. I will leave that to someone else, as writing the section which makes these redundant seems to put me in an awkward position. --[[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 15:37, 6 June 2011 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Armor

2011-06-06T15:35:35Z

RadGH: /* Size & Permit */

v0.31:Armor

2011-06-06T15:22:30Z

RadGH: /* Equipping Clothing */ - More clarification, added sub-headers. I suggest splitting Permit/Layer/Size into sections

{{quality|Fine|14:29, 21 November 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

Armor is the protective equipment used to reduce/deflect damage during {{l|combat}}. It comes in several pieces, each one protecting a certain area. The purpose of each piece is pretty much self-explanatory. Note that breastplates only protect upper/lower torso areas, while mail shirts also cover the upper arms. Ears, nose, lips and teeth are exposed, even in full armor, whilst robes and capes tend to cover the throat.

'''The actual effectiveness of a given piece of armor depends on the weapon(s) being used against it.'''

Keeping in mind the armored enemies you are likely to meet, it is advisable to equip your military dwarves with at least iron armor. Testing in the arena shows that armored dwarves have a huge advantage over the unarmored ones, usually taking no casualties while making short work of their enemies. (But you shouldn't need this wiki to figure that out.)

== Armor Skill ==

It is unclear how the {{l|armor user}} skill affects combat, since the movement speed and armor penetration look the same for legendary armor users and untrained users, yet when testing in the arena, a novice armor user is injured extremely frequently compared a grand master armor user.

== Quality Level ==
Armor gets a deflection bonus based on quality level, but anything less than mastercraft gets no bonus. See {{L|Quality}} for more information.

{{DF2010:Item quality/Table}}

== Materials ==

''(see also: [[Metal#Weapon_.26_Armor_Quality|Metal: Armor Quality]])''

'''Armor material effectiveness changed recently. [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=53571.0 Simulation testing] is still ongoing, so these results should be considered merely Fine quality, not Masterwork.'''

It should be noted that armor material is extremely important now. For example, fully iron-armored dwarves with iron short swords stand no chance against steel-equipped ones. A weapon has difficulty piercing armor of the same material (e.g. steel short swords vs. steel armor). However, blunt weapons (such as maces or war hammers) have a much easier time damaging individuals through armor. Testing has shown that even a copper mace is a threat to a dwarf in a steel chain shirt! Breastplates and greaves, being rigid protection, are required to properly protect against blunt weapons.

{|border="1" cellpadding="5" style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;text-align:center"
! Game version !! Poor !! Fair !! Good !! Excellent !! Best
|-
| <= 0.31.11 ||rowspan="2"| Copper || Iron || Bronze ||rowspan="2"| Steel ||rowspan="2"| Adamantine
|-
| >= 0.31.12 || Bronze || Iron
|}

==Types of Protection==

Garments fit on different body parts depending on the item in question, and require different orders based on material sometimes.

They may additionally protect upper and lower arms and legs, depending on the garment. Dwarves do not seem to make a distinction between genders when selecting clothing to wear, so don't be startled when you see males running around in dresses.

There is no real difference between armor and clothing, except materials and that only non-clothing garments increase the {{L|armor user}} skill.

Note that the availability of specific articles of clothing varies from civilization to civilization. So, one civilization may not be able to make vests, another may not be able to make togas, still another may not be able to make dresses and cloaks. By the way, cloaks protect the eyes somewhat, according to combat logs. Dresses and Robes may offer superior protection as well.

Note that Dwarves can potentially manufacture items listed in their raws in the file \raw\objects\entity_default.txt, while other items exist which can never be made by un-modded dwarves, such as a head scarf or face veil. As well, some clothing articles may not be crafted in fortresses of a given {{L|civilization}} - only those items marked as 'common' for that civilization may be crafted.

===Headgear===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cap
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%

|-
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Helm[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|-
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Hood
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mask†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Turban†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Head Veil†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Face Veil†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Headscarf†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|}

===Upper Body===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UBSTEP}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|LBSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Dress
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Tunic
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Toga
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Vest
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Robe
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coat
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather Armor[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Breastplate[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|9
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Plate
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cape†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|300
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|}

===Hands===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UPSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Gloves
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Gauntlets[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mittens
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|}

===Lower Body===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|LBSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Trousers
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|4
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leggings[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Greaves[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Plate
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Plate
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Loincloths†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Thongs†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Skirts (Short)†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Skirts†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Skirts (Long)†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Braies
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|}

===Foot Protection===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UPSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Socks
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Sandal†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shoes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Low Boots
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|High Boots
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chausses (sockmail)†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|}

===Shield===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UPSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|4
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|}

* The armor level of an item with a "+" can be increased by one if made from metal.
*† {{=}} This article cannot be crafted by dwarves (except for [[artifact]]s), but may be purchased in trade.
*[S] {{=}} shaped item, max one [S] per body slot (e.g. plate mail cannot be worn with leather armor, but can be worn with chain mail, and greaves and leggings cannot be combined).

==Equipping Clothing==

Items in Dwarf Fortress must be equipped in a specific order. A dwarf must equip a layer type of Under before he equips a layer of type Over, for example. The complete order goes: Under, Armor, Over, Cover. It is common among civilians to see a dwarf equip pants with no undergarments due to this restriction, even when an undergarment is available. This is typically not an issue with soldiers, however.

There is no restriction on wearing multiple items of the same type ''(Unless the item is shaped [S])''. You can, for example, wear 3 cloaks without penalty.

===Process for equipping a new piece of clothing===

The following variables will be used in the logic below:
:'''Current Item''' refers to the specific item being equipped.
:'''Total Size''' refers to the {{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|size}} of all items equipped on that body part, excluding the item to be equipped (while including those on a different {{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|layer}}).
:'''Permit''' refers to the current item's {{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|permit}}.

In order to equip a new item, the dwarf (or other creature) ...
:*will determine if he is eligible to wear the item in question (Perhaps the body part is missing/severed).
:*must start with the lowest layer first, continuing to the next layer when no other items of that layer need to be equipped
:*checks if the item is shaped [S], and will only equip the item if no other shaped items are equipped '''on that body part'''.
:*will equip items with lowest permit level first. If two items share the same permit value, the highest size item will be equipped first{{verify}}.
:*then checks if his total size (excluding the current item) is less than the current item's permit.
:*If all above logic is true, the dwarf will equip the item.

===Equipment process example===

Each item is listed in order of being equipped, the primary focus of this example is that the total size must be equal to, or less than the permit size of the item being equipped. Like above, the total size ''excludes the size of the item being equipped''.

{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"

!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Item Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Permit
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Total Size*
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Breastplate [S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|35
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|65
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|65
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|80
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|95
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|110
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|125
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|140
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|155
|}

* * = Total Size include the size of all equipped items, but does not include the item being equipped
*Red Text = This item would cannot be equipped, because the total size is larger than the item's permitted size.

==Size, Permit, and layering armor==

The '''Size''' and '''Permit''' values govern how much clothing or armor can be worn.

Under the old system the lowest "permit" value for any given body part is used: for instance, if a dwarf is wearing a dress (permit value: 50) and a total of 50 or more ''size'' worth of clothing on the upper body, it cannot put any more clothing on the upper body. (This explains why the old {{L|dungeon master}}s tend to wear several cloaks: they arrive at the fortress wearing only a cloak on the upper body (permit 150), and can put on a total of 10 of them, at 15 size each.)

Unfortunately, [LAYER:COVER] items are the only items playing by the old rules. This much is certain from testing in arena mode.

:*If the item to be add is a [LAYER:COVER] item, add the total item size on the body part, if this sum is '''less than or equal to''' the item's permit value then evaluate as true.
:*If a [LAYER:ARMOR] item is present or to be added and if the sum of the non [LAYER:COVER] items would be '''less than''' the sum of the [LAYER:ARMOR] size+permit values then evaluate as true.
:*If one or more items of the same non-[LAYER:COVER] layer as the one being added are present and if the sum of their size values is '''less than''' the smallest permit value then evaluate as true.
:*If the sum of the size values for all items on the body part are '''less than or equal to''' the permit value of the item about to be added then evaluate as true.

The item is allowed if all rules either evaluate to true or are not applicable. This is in addition to the rule allowing only one shaped item on a given body part at a time.

Example: A helm(30 size,20 permit) means you can put on a mask(20,10) or two caps(10,20), but only two head veils(10,100). Any of these configurations can fit 6 additional hoods if desired.

Example: Wearing a cap(10,15) allows only one face veil(10,100), because they are both [LAYER:UNDER], but an additional combined total of up to 9 head veils and hoods is possible.

Note that the armor value of socks and other clothing is unknown under the new system - however, wearing them under "armor" such as boots is recommended for an adventurer.

'''{{L|Adventurer mode}}''' follows the arena rules so it is possible to have three chain mail shirts(15,50), a breastplate(20,50), and 25 capes(10,300) on ones upper body plus two caps(or one mask), a helm, and six hoods on ones head. Confirmation is needed to see if {{L|fortress mode}} follows the old rules or the new arena rules. (I tested this and found that Urist McNopants follows a totally different set of rules than either of these. His rules tell him to forget both caps all of the hoods both socks and his trousers, and each sucessive time he gets dressed he feels the need to do it differently.)

===Some more workaround about Size, Permit and Layering===

* You can only have one shaped armor piece (marked with '''[S]''') per body part.
* The total size of non-cover items must be ''lower'' than any armour piece's permit + size total.
* The total size of all items of any layer on any body part must be lower than the lowest permit value (excluding that item).
* The total size of all items on any body part must be lower than the size + permit value of any cover item.
* All items are put on in order of their layer.

As an example, lets say you want to kit out your soldiers upper body. Try walking through this in arena mode to get a feel for it.

You start off with a {{L|steel}} breastplate. This has a size of '''20''' and a permit of '''50'''. It is also '''shaped''', so you can't add any other shaped items; no more breastplates and no {{L|leather}} armor.

Now you want to add mail shirts. Each one has a permit of '''50''' and a size of '''15'''. You can add three of these if you want. It checks the size against each of the armour pieces permit + size (or rather, the permit value ignoring that items size in the calculation), like so;
* Against each of the mail shirts, you have '''2 x 15 = 30''' total size in mail shirts, '''+ 20''' from the breastplate, matching the '''50''' permit.
* Against the breastplate you have '''3 x 15 = 45 < 50''', fine.
Now if you add a fourth mail shirt these test will fail. However, because of the layering order (mail shirts being armour layer 2, the breastplate armour layer 3) the breastplate is added after the shirts. This results in the breastplate being dropped.

Because this reaches the '''50''' permit limit for the mail shirts, you can't add more non-cover items without substituting them for existing items. If you want a robe (size '''20'''), for example, you need to remove two of the mail shirts to clear a total size of '''30''', which then lets you add an extra size '''10''' shirt, vest or whatever.

However, you can add cover layer items. In this case, cloaks. Each cloak has a size of '''15''' and a permit of '''150'''. Taking into account the '''65''' size already on the upper body, we can add '''100''' size worth of cloaks. This lets us add '''6''' ('''x 15 = 90''') cloaks over the existing armour.

Going through like this for the rest of the body (most of it is simpler) gives you a final setup of;

'''Head''' 
2 x caps 
1 x helm 
6 x hood

'''Upper Body''' 
1 x breastplate 
3 x mail shirts 
6 x cloaks

'''Upper Body (cheap)''' 
6 x dress 
3 x robe 
3 x cloak 

'''Lower Body''' 
3 x long skirts 
1 x greaves

'''Lower Body (no foreign items)''' 
2 x trousers 
1 x greaves

'''Lower Body (cheap)''' 
2 x trousers 
1 x leggings

'''Hands''' 
1 x pairs of gauntlets 
1 x pairs of mittens

'''Hands (cheap)''' 
2 x pairs of gloves 
1 x pairs of mittens

'''Feet''' 
1 x pairs of chausses 
1 x pairs of high boots

'''Feet (no foreign items)''' 
1 x pairs of socks 
1 x pairs of high boots

'''Feet (cheap)''' 
1 x pairs of socks 
1 x pairs of shoes

Of course, so long as the bugs are still around, we are likely to see dwarves wearing more than this or refusing to put parts on because they found their boots before their socks.

''Note: "Cheap" implies the set can be made from secondary materials such as bone and cloth with item types not overlapping with the other, more combat oriented set which use metal, leather and cloth (for socks). As a rule of thumb, combat sets provide better protection but cheap sets are lighter and easier to mass produce.''

===Coverage===

There are three tags that govern how far coverage reaches.

:'''[UBSTEP]'''
This token, when applied to torso armor, controls how far 'up' the body an item of armor reaches. Basically you can think of it as going out in stages along the body. It doesn't cover legs. It doesn't cover body parts with certain tags (notably [HEAD], [GRASP] and [STANCE], or the head). It can cover the children of such body parts (such as parts of the face) if it extends beyond them. The upper body and lower body are counted as 0 steps away, and so both always covered.

Breastplates have a default of 0, meaning they only cover the torso. 
Mail shirts have [UBSTEP:1], so cover the upper arms.

A number of clothing items have [UBSTEP:MAX]. What exactly this covers depends on a certain bug, but unless you are making adamantine robes you probably won't get that much extra protection this way anyway. This would mean, for example, they would cover the upper arm, lower arm, skip the hand, then cover the fingers. The same goes for facial features (and, oddly, the throat) after skipping the head and the toes after skipping the entire legs and feet. 
The clothes with these properties seem to be robes, cloaks, coats, shirts and dresses. However, of these only robes and dresses also have [LBSTEP:MAX] (see below) and so I'm not sure if anything else would actually cover toes or not. Needs additional testing.

Testing in arena: in three 15x15 dwarves battles where both sides was equiped with iron battle axes and iron full armor and one of the teams was enforced with leather robes, team with robes was a victorious (2-3 survivors).

:'''[LBSTEP]'''
This token, when applied to torso armor or pants, controls how much of the legs an item covers. Legs in this case are defined as [LIMB] body parts that end in a [STANCE] body part (eg, foot). Arms are [LIMB]s, but end in a [GRASP] hand instead. Because the upper and lower body are effectively zero steps from each other, torso armour can extend this way easily.

Both greaves and leggings have [LBSTEP:MAX] and so cover the entire leg to the best of their ability. 
Mail shirts have [LBSTEP:1] and so can protect the upper legs. A range of other clothes (including cloaks) and leather armour also have this.
As mentioned above, robes and dresses have [LBSTEP:MAX] and so cover the entire legs. These also have [UBSTEP:MAX] and so cover the entire body. Although not the strongest armour, a leather (or maybe adamantine?) robe or dress gives you maximum coverage.

:'''[UPSTEP]'''
This token, when applied to gloves or shoes, determines how far up the limb the armor protects. As with [LBSTEP], this doesn't cover anything but the [LIMB] tag body parts, but it does cover arms as well as legs.

Low boots literally only cover the foot. 
High boots have [UPSTEP:1], so cover the lower leg. If you consider the upper legs can covered by [LBSTEP] from above, you can effectively have an entire layer of chain armour on the legs from high boots and a mail shirt even before adding leg armour. This is why I go with greaves for a plate layer.
Gauntlets have [UPSTEP:1], so cover the lower arms. Because there is no other protection for arms as there is for legs, you need gauntlets and mail shirts to protect your arms fully.
Chausses are a very rare sock substitute, but they are the only items to have [UPSTEP:MAX] and so offer full leg coverage while being exactly the same size as regular socks. The perfect undergarment.

The whole method is pretty nifty with just two problems. 
* Faces can't be covered by head armour.
* Throats cannot be protected by metal armor (except adamantine cloth).

In previous versions toes and fingers were not protected by armor. However as of 31.17 both are now protected by the relevant armor type, e.g gauntlets cover fingers and boots cover toes.

=== Other Restrictions ===

In fortress mode, "under" layers cannot be put on over "over" layers, so, for instance, a dwarf cannot put on socks unless it first removes its shoes. They can wear over layers without putting an under layer on first, which explains their fondness for "going commando" (trousers without loincloth). Dwarves will only put on the specific armor they are told to put on -- unless they are not told what to wear.

In adventurer mode, you have direct control over what armor you put on, and are only limited by permit and "one only" (shaped) restrictions. This means you can wear three suits of chain mail (total size 45) plus another suit of chain or plate on top of them. On top of this, you can add six cloaks.

== Bugs ==
Metal armor currently only requires 1 bar of a metal to forge; however, when out of bars, the {{L|announcement}} indicates the expected number of bars required:
:''"Urist McArmorsmith cancels forge <x-metal> breast plate: needs 3 <x-metal> bars."''

In adventurer mode, putting a pair of socks (or any under-layer foot wear) on before putting on a pair of boots (or any over-layer foot wear) will keep you from putting on the last boot. So the order sock, sock, boot, boot doesn't work, but changing the order to sock, boot, sock, boot does. This is a very minor bug.

v0.31:Armor

2011-06-06T15:17:27Z

RadGH: /* Equipping Clothing */

{{quality|Fine|14:29, 21 November 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

Armor is the protective equipment used to reduce/deflect damage during {{l|combat}}. It comes in several pieces, each one protecting a certain area. The purpose of each piece is pretty much self-explanatory. Note that breastplates only protect upper/lower torso areas, while mail shirts also cover the upper arms. Ears, nose, lips and teeth are exposed, even in full armor, whilst robes and capes tend to cover the throat.

'''The actual effectiveness of a given piece of armor depends on the weapon(s) being used against it.'''

Keeping in mind the armored enemies you are likely to meet, it is advisable to equip your military dwarves with at least iron armor. Testing in the arena shows that armored dwarves have a huge advantage over the unarmored ones, usually taking no casualties while making short work of their enemies. (But you shouldn't need this wiki to figure that out.)

== Armor Skill ==

It is unclear how the {{l|armor user}} skill affects combat, since the movement speed and armor penetration look the same for legendary armor users and untrained users, yet when testing in the arena, a novice armor user is injured extremely frequently compared a grand master armor user.

== Quality Level ==
Armor gets a deflection bonus based on quality level, but anything less than mastercraft gets no bonus. See {{L|Quality}} for more information.

{{DF2010:Item quality/Table}}

== Materials ==

''(see also: [[Metal#Weapon_.26_Armor_Quality|Metal: Armor Quality]])''

'''Armor material effectiveness changed recently. [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=53571.0 Simulation testing] is still ongoing, so these results should be considered merely Fine quality, not Masterwork.'''

It should be noted that armor material is extremely important now. For example, fully iron-armored dwarves with iron short swords stand no chance against steel-equipped ones. A weapon has difficulty piercing armor of the same material (e.g. steel short swords vs. steel armor). However, blunt weapons (such as maces or war hammers) have a much easier time damaging individuals through armor. Testing has shown that even a copper mace is a threat to a dwarf in a steel chain shirt! Breastplates and greaves, being rigid protection, are required to properly protect against blunt weapons.

{|border="1" cellpadding="5" style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;text-align:center"
! Game version !! Poor !! Fair !! Good !! Excellent !! Best
|-
| <= 0.31.11 ||rowspan="2"| Copper || Iron || Bronze ||rowspan="2"| Steel ||rowspan="2"| Adamantine
|-
| >= 0.31.12 || Bronze || Iron
|}

==Types of Protection==

Garments fit on different body parts depending on the item in question, and require different orders based on material sometimes.

They may additionally protect upper and lower arms and legs, depending on the garment. Dwarves do not seem to make a distinction between genders when selecting clothing to wear, so don't be startled when you see males running around in dresses.

There is no real difference between armor and clothing, except materials and that only non-clothing garments increase the {{L|armor user}} skill.

Note that the availability of specific articles of clothing varies from civilization to civilization. So, one civilization may not be able to make vests, another may not be able to make togas, still another may not be able to make dresses and cloaks. By the way, cloaks protect the eyes somewhat, according to combat logs. Dresses and Robes may offer superior protection as well.

Note that Dwarves can potentially manufacture items listed in their raws in the file \raw\objects\entity_default.txt, while other items exist which can never be made by un-modded dwarves, such as a head scarf or face veil. As well, some clothing articles may not be crafted in fortresses of a given {{L|civilization}} - only those items marked as 'common' for that civilization may be crafted.

===Headgear===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cap
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%

|-
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Helm[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|-
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Hood
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mask†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Turban†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Head Veil†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Face Veil†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Headscarf†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|}

===Upper Body===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UBSTEP}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|LBSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Dress
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Tunic
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Toga
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Vest
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Robe
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coat
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather Armor[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Breastplate[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|9
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Plate
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cape†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|300
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|}

===Hands===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UPSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Gloves
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Gauntlets[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mittens
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|}

===Lower Body===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|LBSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Trousers
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|4
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leggings[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Greaves[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Plate
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Plate
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Loincloths†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Thongs†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Skirts (Short)†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Skirts†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Skirts (Long)†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Braies
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|}

===Foot Protection===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UPSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Socks
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Sandal†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shoes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Low Boots
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|High Boots
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chausses (sockmail)†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|}

===Shield===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UPSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|4
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|}

* The armor level of an item with a "+" can be increased by one if made from metal.
*† {{=}} This article cannot be crafted by dwarves (except for [[artifact]]s), but may be purchased in trade.
*[S] {{=}} shaped item, max one [S] per body slot (e.g. plate mail cannot be worn with leather armor, but can be worn with chain mail, and greaves and leggings cannot be combined).

==Equipping Clothing==

Items in Dwarf Fortress must be equipped in a specific order. A dwarf must equip a layer type of Under before he equips a layer of type Over, for example. The complete order goes: Under, Armor, Over, Cover. It is common among civilians to see a dwarf equip pants with no undergarments due to this restriction, even when an undergarment is available. This is typically not an issue with soldiers, however.

There is no restriction on wearing multiple items of the same type ''(Unless the item is shaped [S])''. You can, for example, wear 3 cloaks without penalty.

The following variables will be used in the logic below:
*''Current Item'' refers to the specific item being equipped.
*''Total Size'' refers to the {{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|size}} of all items equipped on that body part, excluding the item to be equipped (and including those on a different {{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|layer}}).
*''Permit'' refers to the '''current item's''' {{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|permit}}.

In order to equip a new item, the dwarf (or other creature) ...
:*will determine if he is eligible to wear the item in question (Perhaps the body part is missing/severed).
:*must start with the lowest layer first, continuing to the next layer when no other items of that layer need to be equipped
:*checks if the item is shaped [S], and will only equip the item if no other shaped items are equipped '''on that body part'''.
:*will equip items with lowest permit level first. If two items share the same permit value, the highest size item will be equipped first{{verify}}.
:*then checks if his total size (excluding the current item) is less than the current item's permit.
:*If all above logic is true, the dwarf will equip the item.

An example of what would work. The Each item is listed in order of being equipped, in order for the item to be equipped the Total Size must be ''less than or equal to'' the Permit of the item.

{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"

!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Item Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Permit
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Total Size*
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Breastplate [S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|35
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|65
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|65
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|80
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|95
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|110
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|125
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|140
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|155
|}

* * = Total Size include the size of all equipped items, but does not include the item being equipped
*Red Text = This item would cannot be equipped, because the total size is larger than the item's permitted size.

==Size, Permit, and layering armor==

The '''Size''' and '''Permit''' values govern how much clothing or armor can be worn.

Under the old system the lowest "permit" value for any given body part is used: for instance, if a dwarf is wearing a dress (permit value: 50) and a total of 50 or more ''size'' worth of clothing on the upper body, it cannot put any more clothing on the upper body. (This explains why the old {{L|dungeon master}}s tend to wear several cloaks: they arrive at the fortress wearing only a cloak on the upper body (permit 150), and can put on a total of 10 of them, at 15 size each.)

Unfortunately, [LAYER:COVER] items are the only items playing by the old rules. This much is certain from testing in arena mode.

:*If the item to be add is a [LAYER:COVER] item, add the total item size on the body part, if this sum is '''less than or equal to''' the item's permit value then evaluate as true.
:*If a [LAYER:ARMOR] item is present or to be added and if the sum of the non [LAYER:COVER] items would be '''less than''' the sum of the [LAYER:ARMOR] size+permit values then evaluate as true.
:*If one or more items of the same non-[LAYER:COVER] layer as the one being added are present and if the sum of their size values is '''less than''' the smallest permit value then evaluate as true.
:*If the sum of the size values for all items on the body part are '''less than or equal to''' the permit value of the item about to be added then evaluate as true.

The item is allowed if all rules either evaluate to true or are not applicable. This is in addition to the rule allowing only one shaped item on a given body part at a time.

Example: A helm(30 size,20 permit) means you can put on a mask(20,10) or two caps(10,20), but only two head veils(10,100). Any of these configurations can fit 6 additional hoods if desired.

Example: Wearing a cap(10,15) allows only one face veil(10,100), because they are both [LAYER:UNDER], but an additional combined total of up to 9 head veils and hoods is possible.

Note that the armor value of socks and other clothing is unknown under the new system - however, wearing them under "armor" such as boots is recommended for an adventurer.

'''{{L|Adventurer mode}}''' follows the arena rules so it is possible to have three chain mail shirts(15,50), a breastplate(20,50), and 25 capes(10,300) on ones upper body plus two caps(or one mask), a helm, and six hoods on ones head. Confirmation is needed to see if {{L|fortress mode}} follows the old rules or the new arena rules. (I tested this and found that Urist McNopants follows a totally different set of rules than either of these. His rules tell him to forget both caps all of the hoods both socks and his trousers, and each sucessive time he gets dressed he feels the need to do it differently.)

===Some more workaround about Size, Permit and Layering===

* You can only have one shaped armor piece (marked with '''[S]''') per body part.
* The total size of non-cover items must be ''lower'' than any armour piece's permit + size total.
* The total size of all items of any layer on any body part must be lower than the lowest permit value (excluding that item).
* The total size of all items on any body part must be lower than the size + permit value of any cover item.
* All items are put on in order of their layer.

As an example, lets say you want to kit out your soldiers upper body. Try walking through this in arena mode to get a feel for it.

You start off with a {{L|steel}} breastplate. This has a size of '''20''' and a permit of '''50'''. It is also '''shaped''', so you can't add any other shaped items; no more breastplates and no {{L|leather}} armor.

Now you want to add mail shirts. Each one has a permit of '''50''' and a size of '''15'''. You can add three of these if you want. It checks the size against each of the armour pieces permit + size (or rather, the permit value ignoring that items size in the calculation), like so;
* Against each of the mail shirts, you have '''2 x 15 = 30''' total size in mail shirts, '''+ 20''' from the breastplate, matching the '''50''' permit.
* Against the breastplate you have '''3 x 15 = 45 < 50''', fine.
Now if you add a fourth mail shirt these test will fail. However, because of the layering order (mail shirts being armour layer 2, the breastplate armour layer 3) the breastplate is added after the shirts. This results in the breastplate being dropped.

Because this reaches the '''50''' permit limit for the mail shirts, you can't add more non-cover items without substituting them for existing items. If you want a robe (size '''20'''), for example, you need to remove two of the mail shirts to clear a total size of '''30''', which then lets you add an extra size '''10''' shirt, vest or whatever.

However, you can add cover layer items. In this case, cloaks. Each cloak has a size of '''15''' and a permit of '''150'''. Taking into account the '''65''' size already on the upper body, we can add '''100''' size worth of cloaks. This lets us add '''6''' ('''x 15 = 90''') cloaks over the existing armour.

Going through like this for the rest of the body (most of it is simpler) gives you a final setup of;

'''Head''' 
2 x caps 
1 x helm 
6 x hood

'''Upper Body''' 
1 x breastplate 
3 x mail shirts 
6 x cloaks

'''Upper Body (cheap)''' 
6 x dress 
3 x robe 
3 x cloak 

'''Lower Body''' 
3 x long skirts 
1 x greaves

'''Lower Body (no foreign items)''' 
2 x trousers 
1 x greaves

'''Lower Body (cheap)''' 
2 x trousers 
1 x leggings

'''Hands''' 
1 x pairs of gauntlets 
1 x pairs of mittens

'''Hands (cheap)''' 
2 x pairs of gloves 
1 x pairs of mittens

'''Feet''' 
1 x pairs of chausses 
1 x pairs of high boots

'''Feet (no foreign items)''' 
1 x pairs of socks 
1 x pairs of high boots

'''Feet (cheap)''' 
1 x pairs of socks 
1 x pairs of shoes

Of course, so long as the bugs are still around, we are likely to see dwarves wearing more than this or refusing to put parts on because they found their boots before their socks.

''Note: "Cheap" implies the set can be made from secondary materials such as bone and cloth with item types not overlapping with the other, more combat oriented set which use metal, leather and cloth (for socks). As a rule of thumb, combat sets provide better protection but cheap sets are lighter and easier to mass produce.''

===Coverage===

There are three tags that govern how far coverage reaches.

:'''[UBSTEP]'''
This token, when applied to torso armor, controls how far 'up' the body an item of armor reaches. Basically you can think of it as going out in stages along the body. It doesn't cover legs. It doesn't cover body parts with certain tags (notably [HEAD], [GRASP] and [STANCE], or the head). It can cover the children of such body parts (such as parts of the face) if it extends beyond them. The upper body and lower body are counted as 0 steps away, and so both always covered.

Breastplates have a default of 0, meaning they only cover the torso. 
Mail shirts have [UBSTEP:1], so cover the upper arms.

A number of clothing items have [UBSTEP:MAX]. What exactly this covers depends on a certain bug, but unless you are making adamantine robes you probably won't get that much extra protection this way anyway. This would mean, for example, they would cover the upper arm, lower arm, skip the hand, then cover the fingers. The same goes for facial features (and, oddly, the throat) after skipping the head and the toes after skipping the entire legs and feet. 
The clothes with these properties seem to be robes, cloaks, coats, shirts and dresses. However, of these only robes and dresses also have [LBSTEP:MAX] (see below) and so I'm not sure if anything else would actually cover toes or not. Needs additional testing.

Testing in arena: in three 15x15 dwarves battles where both sides was equiped with iron battle axes and iron full armor and one of the teams was enforced with leather robes, team with robes was a victorious (2-3 survivors).

:'''[LBSTEP]'''
This token, when applied to torso armor or pants, controls how much of the legs an item covers. Legs in this case are defined as [LIMB] body parts that end in a [STANCE] body part (eg, foot). Arms are [LIMB]s, but end in a [GRASP] hand instead. Because the upper and lower body are effectively zero steps from each other, torso armour can extend this way easily.

Both greaves and leggings have [LBSTEP:MAX] and so cover the entire leg to the best of their ability. 
Mail shirts have [LBSTEP:1] and so can protect the upper legs. A range of other clothes (including cloaks) and leather armour also have this.
As mentioned above, robes and dresses have [LBSTEP:MAX] and so cover the entire legs. These also have [UBSTEP:MAX] and so cover the entire body. Although not the strongest armour, a leather (or maybe adamantine?) robe or dress gives you maximum coverage.

:'''[UPSTEP]'''
This token, when applied to gloves or shoes, determines how far up the limb the armor protects. As with [LBSTEP], this doesn't cover anything but the [LIMB] tag body parts, but it does cover arms as well as legs.

Low boots literally only cover the foot. 
High boots have [UPSTEP:1], so cover the lower leg. If you consider the upper legs can covered by [LBSTEP] from above, you can effectively have an entire layer of chain armour on the legs from high boots and a mail shirt even before adding leg armour. This is why I go with greaves for a plate layer.
Gauntlets have [UPSTEP:1], so cover the lower arms. Because there is no other protection for arms as there is for legs, you need gauntlets and mail shirts to protect your arms fully.
Chausses are a very rare sock substitute, but they are the only items to have [UPSTEP:MAX] and so offer full leg coverage while being exactly the same size as regular socks. The perfect undergarment.

The whole method is pretty nifty with just two problems. 
* Faces can't be covered by head armour.
* Throats cannot be protected by metal armor (except adamantine cloth).

In previous versions toes and fingers were not protected by armor. However as of 31.17 both are now protected by the relevant armor type, e.g gauntlets cover fingers and boots cover toes.

=== Other Restrictions ===

In fortress mode, "under" layers cannot be put on over "over" layers, so, for instance, a dwarf cannot put on socks unless it first removes its shoes. They can wear over layers without putting an under layer on first, which explains their fondness for "going commando" (trousers without loincloth). Dwarves will only put on the specific armor they are told to put on -- unless they are not told what to wear.

In adventurer mode, you have direct control over what armor you put on, and are only limited by permit and "one only" (shaped) restrictions. This means you can wear three suits of chain mail (total size 45) plus another suit of chain or plate on top of them. On top of this, you can add six cloaks.

== Bugs ==
Metal armor currently only requires 1 bar of a metal to forge; however, when out of bars, the {{L|announcement}} indicates the expected number of bars required:
:''"Urist McArmorsmith cancels forge <x-metal> breast plate: needs 3 <x-metal> bars."''

In adventurer mode, putting a pair of socks (or any under-layer foot wear) on before putting on a pair of boots (or any over-layer foot wear) will keep you from putting on the last boot. So the order sock, sock, boot, boot doesn't work, but changing the order to sock, boot, sock, boot does. This is a very minor bug.

v0.31 Talk:Armor

2011-06-06T15:12:53Z

RadGH: /* Equipping Clothing */ new section

==Armor raw changes==
Main armor types have been renamed to "breastplate" and "mail shirt" respectively.
Someone with some understanding of armor RAWs should work on the new page. I had to ask just to learn what the [STEP] tags did.

Breastplates have no LBSTEP nor UBSTEP, and now have a simple [ARMORLEVEL:3] in place of all of the old modifiers. They also have no [VALUE] tag.

:The community is still working on figuring out what all the different variables do(if anything there appear to be some placeholders in different parts of different raws), and how materials effect the results. The current best description is to say that, for armor, adamantine>steel>bronze(bismuth or not)>iron>=copper>everything else and that adding more layers at least doesn't seem to hurt(except for weight/speed considerations). Some have gone a little further than that(http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=53571.msg1151052#msg1151052). --[[User:PencilinHand|PencilinHand]] 00:09, 11 April 2010 (UTC)

::Having worked on the problem some I must point out that there is an important difference between having no LBSTEP or UBSTEP and having zero LBSTEP and UBSTEP. A lot of work still needs to be done, especially with regards to how materials work with armor. Also, could everybody remember to sign their work [http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Community_Portal# like Zorro?] --[[User:PencilinHand|PencilinHand]] 06:20, 30 April 2010 (UTC)

Extensive coverage testing of various armors and UB/LBSTEP reveals some buggy behavior:

-The only way to protect [STANCE], [GRASP], [HEAD], or [UPPERBODY] parts (feet, hands, head, and upperbody) is with armor worn on them specifically(LOWERBODY parts may be protected by armor worn on the UPPERBODY as well as the LOWEBODY).

-[LIMB]s (arms and legs) are correctly protected by armors, pants, gloves, and gauntlets with appropriate UBSTEP and LBSTEP values. For example, lower arms can be protected by body armor with UPSTEP >=2 as well as gloves with LBSTEP>=1.

-Currently(31.03), the ONLY way to protect parts that are not [LIMB]s,[STANCE]s,[GRASP]s,[HEAD]s or [UPPER/LOWERBODY]s parts (such as facial features, toes, fingers, throat, vestigial wings, any cosmetic custom parts, etc)is by exploiting a bug. You need a robe, or a dress; an UPPERBODY armor with UBSTEP:MAX. Armor configured this way will protect all [LIMB]s that are do not qualify for LBSTEP coverage, as well as fingers and toes etc, but it will NOT protect, hands, feet, or heads. Gauntlets, boots, and helms currently protect hands, feet, and heads, but not fingers, toes, or facial features. This is both counter intuitive, and at odds with toady's comments on the subject.

--[[User:Derigo|Derigo]] 05:15, 11 May 2010 (UTC)

Whether or not we know the exact mechanics of the various STEPS, I have added them to the Armor Tables so we can at least have a reference to what armor has what. Also, they are now sortable by those #s, because that was really bugging me.

Does anyone know what the BONE/LEATHER/ETC categories are tracking? Because I think it is a holdover from 40d, but I wasn't going to delete them until I knew for sure. --[[User:Flaede|Flaede]] 10:08, 20 August 2010 (UTC)

=== wooden armor ====
just curious -- how does it rate?

==New armor layering rules==
I added the new rules for layering armor. It is kind of complicated and I only typed it up so it will need to be presented in a more user friendly format at some point but it is past 2 am here so I am going to bed now. Also, we need to confirm that these rules hold for fortress mode. --[[User:PencilinHand|PencilinHand]] 06:20, 30 April 2010 (UTC)

I don't understand something--in the example, you say you can get 2x socks, 2x high boots. But if high boots have size 25 permit 15, how do you get the second pair on? Wouldn't the third rule be violated? – [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:74.104.157.229|74.104.157.229]]
:I suspect he's accepting the fact that a dwarf has two feet - so he'd get one sock and one high boot on one foot, and one sock and one high boot on the other. But that's just my interpretation - I don't try and optimize my fortress-mode armoring any better than "okay, high boots protect more than low boots, so I'll make those instead". --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 07:41, 12 July 2010 (UTC)

==Bugs==
I just thought I'd point out the bar number bug is probably due to the fact that a steel bar is now 150 steel, much like cloth and thread. The smelting reactions require 150 units as input, but the forge reactions appear to be asking for number of bars instead of amount of metal. Input for a breastplate should then be 450 steel instead of 3. --[[User:Dapanman|Dapanman]] 22:00, 1 May 2010 (UTC)
:I tested this by editing the raws; if you multiply all the material size tokens by 150 you get the correct results (breastplates take 3 bars, chain shirts/greaves take 2, etc). So a breastplate should have material size 1350. (And if you don't have enough, it will again misrepresent it as "needs 450 bars" but oh well.) You have to gen a new world though. [[Special:Contributions/96.224.166.17|96.224.166.17]] 02:27, 21 November 2010 (UTC)

Note that for optimal loadout in Fortress mode, be sure to select 'replace clothing' rather than 'over clothing' -- I tried to add breastplate, mail shirt and leather cloak to someone already wearing a shirt, and they'd just spin in 'Pickup Equipment' trying to overload themselves, swapping the mail shirt and breastplate. If you don't mind specifying every piece of garb in their uniform, it's easier if they start naked and you build up from there.

==Toga==
i dont see these on the table, yet i can create them in the '[j]obs' menu, in the leatherworks, and in the clothier's shop in both cloth and silk. surely it should be on there?--[[User:DJ Devil|DJ Devil]] 15:23, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
:i also cant make robes or coats. did anyone check the accuracy of this page before it was put on here..?--[[User:DJ Devil|DJ Devil]] 15:30, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
::Dunno why you can't make robes or coats - for me, my leatherworks has robes as the third choice, coats at fifth, and yes togas at sixth. Cloth has 'em in the same order, and the same for silk. Not in a position to comment on their protective capabilities, me, but they definitely exist. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 16:43, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
:one possible reason could be that i'm still on 0.31.03, but i cant see that mattering too much - surely they didnt take any items out of that particular release which were in 40d, and then put it back in on 0.31.04? that'd be a bit bizarre.. but i cannot make robes or coats anywhere (i.e. not on the 'jobs' menu, or in the leatherworks, or in the clothier's). the list goes as such;
* leather armour (only in the leatherworks)
* dress
* shirt
* tunic
* toga
* vest
* cloak
* leggings (only in the leatherworks)
* trousers
* cap
* helm (only in the leatherworks)
* hood
* glove
* mitten
* sock (only in the clothier's (both materials))
* high boot (only in the leatherworks)
* shoe
very strange..--[[User:DJ Devil|DJ Devil]] 17:43, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
:The clothing objects you're able to make depend on your civilization - if you look, they're all in the raws. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 18:00, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
::sorry, i dont quite understand. by 'civilisation', do you mean the race? i.e. goblin/human/dwarf? or do you mean specifically the settlement my town was created from? and in my raws it has robes and coats in the 'item_armor' file, along with togas, and the other stuff i CAN make.--[[User:DJ Devil|DJ Devil]] 18:15, 28 May 2010 (UTC)
:He does mean "specifically the settlement", although the organization is not settlement-specific. Now that I look more closely, my leatherworks is missing "shirt" and "vest", as is my clothier's shop. So yes, it varies depending on the civilization. You can get an idea of what your chosen civ has access to during the Embark phase. Just go to add a new item, and look at the Bodywear category. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 19:46, 28 May 2010 (UTC)

::I will edit the table to add togas and add a disclaimer about availability being based on civilization. --[[User:PencilinHand|PencilinHand]] 16:50, 12 June 2010 (UTC)

== Metal raws concerning armor ==

What raws are related to how good a metal is as an armor material? [[User:Richards|Richards]] 21:23, 21 June 2010 (UTC)

== Article quality ==

<quote>
Exceptional Quality Articles have ALL of the following characteristics:

Is properly categorized
Has a decent amount of information (is "complete" for the purposes of new players looking for information
</quote>
Source: http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/Dwarf_Fortress_Wiki:Quality#Tattered#ixzz0vc6YZ2ES

This article is mostly useless for a new play, badly formated for the information it does present, and utterly fails to give a wide range of information. how can this be "exceptional?"

[[Special:Contributions/152.91.9.144|152.91.9.144]] 05:52, 4 August 2010 (UTC)

==Leather vs Chain vs Plate==

Am I missing something, or is listing the distinction in the table between these types of armor an outdated concept? As far as I know, the game doesn't currently use these terms to categorize armor, and some of them don't even make sense anymore, like metal caps being categorized as "leather". Surely the "Armor Level" column covers the concept comprehensively without causing confusion? --[[User:Soronhen|Soronhen]] 16:53, 15 October 2010 (UTC)

== Human-sized armor ==

Is there any issue with dwarves wearing human-made and human-sized armor pieces, e.g., "large cap", "large breastplate"? (If dwarves can wear them, why can't they make them?) Elf-sized armor? And would humans be interested in elf-made armor pieces?
It seems an obvious issue to ask about, but I haven't seen any answers... -- [[User:Maunder|Maunder]] 05:21, 26 October 2010 (UTC)
:Any armor/clothing that is labeled as "large" or "small" cannot be equipped; thus, gear worn by {{L|Human}}s, {{L|Troll}}s, and {{L|Kobold}}s is useful only for melting or for trading. {{L|Goblin}}s and {{L|Elf|Elves}} are the same size as Dwarves, so your dwarves can wear them just fine. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 21:43, 27 October 2010 (UTC)

== Adamantine dress and robe ==

I verified that adamantine dresses and robes will protect everything except hands, feet, and heads. (Including toes, fingers, necks, and noses.) I believe that this makes adamantine robes the mose efficient use of the metal, granting near-immunity to piercing and slashing attacks. [[User:Decius|Decius]] 23:57, 7 November 2010 (UTC)

However, it seems that other materials might be better vs. blunt weapons. It seems that blunt attacks will do damage "through the pig tail fiber cloak" instead of an adamantine dress or shirt. Has anyone tested nonmetals for protection from blunt? [[User:Decius|Decius]] 00:28, 28 April 2011 (UTC)

Arena mode results: Troll fur, pig tail, toad leather, and steel all provide roughly the same protection vs silver whips. Blows would regularly chip bone through the armor, damage organs, and kills were from putting the skull through the brain. A mixture of goblins and dwarves was used, 1v1, competent lasher and no other skills. Fortress mode confirms the adamantine robe hypothesis: Ten pages of fortress mode combat logs of a lasher and axegoblin beating on an unconscious swordsdwarf wearing adamantine robe, gauntlets, helm and high boots. The lasher inflicted massive organ damage, the axegoblin inflicted nothing. Somehow the dwarf managed to survive long enough to be carried to the hospital, and appears to be breathing now. Surprisingly, only the lower body and upper body were targeted during the curbstomp. [[User:Decius|Decius]] 01:47, 28 April 2011 (UTC)

== Changes in 0.31.17? ==

I've just had a strike to a goblin toe deflected by his copper low boot. The article claims that it is impossible due to a bug. Recheck of armor coverage rules is in order.[[File:Foot_toe-deflected.png]]--[[User:Another|Another]] 16:37, 12 November 2010 (UTC)
:You must have updated to the latest version. 31.17 made toes and fingers covered by boots and gauntlets respectively.--[[User:Furlion|Furlion]] 17:24, 12 November 2010 (UTC)

== Modding Gloves ==

I'm working on a mod to be able to produce armor in adventure mode -- but I've hit a snag. Gloves of all sorts are in "left" and "right" pairs. I can't figure out the raws to stop producing "cheetah leather glove" as opposed to "cheetah leather right glove". Anyone happen to know this? --[[User:Aescula|Aescula]] 02:31, 27 November 2010 (UTC)

== Growing attached ==
One of my dwarves just grew attached his the left mitten. This means that armor probably can also be named like a weapon. I'll do mre research. --[[User:Blur|Blur]] 08:51, 27 December 2010 (UTC)

== quality of armor? ==

I was wondering, how does the crafted quality of armor affect its performance in combat? --Mark 20:28, 21 January 2011 (UTC)

== Foreign Boots ==

I was preparing my military uniform, when it said high boots were foreign. They weren't foreign in my other save which is the same version. I have v.31.18. What's going on? --[[User:Joejr50|Joejr50]] 21:53, 9 February 2011 (UTC)

:Some dwarf civs can make high boots, some can only make low boots. You got a low-boot one. [[Special:Contributions/220.253.80.140|220.253.80.140]] 10:03, 20 February 2011 (UTC)

== Size & Permit ==

These are confusing... e.g., the helmet + 2 caps example. Why is this allowed? The sizes, added together, are 50. This is not LESS than the helmets size + permit. Wouldn't this violate the 2nd rule?

Also, isn't the first rule identical to the last rule? (If an item is not a layer:cover item, the last rule applies, if it is a layer:cover item, both the first & the last rule apply, but will always evaluate the same, as written.) - Morik 2011-03-28

== Equipping Clothing ==

I added a verify link in hopes that someone can confirm the equipping logic for the following line:

"If two items share the same permit value, the highest size item will be equipped first." --[[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 15:12, 6 June 2011 (UTC)

v0.31:Armor

2011-06-06T15:10:26Z

RadGH: Added a section that explains the process for equipping clothing, previous examples were unclear and poorly written.

{{quality|Fine|14:29, 21 November 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

Armor is the protective equipment used to reduce/deflect damage during {{l|combat}}. It comes in several pieces, each one protecting a certain area. The purpose of each piece is pretty much self-explanatory. Note that breastplates only protect upper/lower torso areas, while mail shirts also cover the upper arms. Ears, nose, lips and teeth are exposed, even in full armor, whilst robes and capes tend to cover the throat.

'''The actual effectiveness of a given piece of armor depends on the weapon(s) being used against it.'''

Keeping in mind the armored enemies you are likely to meet, it is advisable to equip your military dwarves with at least iron armor. Testing in the arena shows that armored dwarves have a huge advantage over the unarmored ones, usually taking no casualties while making short work of their enemies. (But you shouldn't need this wiki to figure that out.)

== Armor Skill ==

It is unclear how the {{l|armor user}} skill affects combat, since the movement speed and armor penetration look the same for legendary armor users and untrained users, yet when testing in the arena, a novice armor user is injured extremely frequently compared a grand master armor user.

== Quality Level ==
Armor gets a deflection bonus based on quality level, but anything less than mastercraft gets no bonus. See {{L|Quality}} for more information.

{{DF2010:Item quality/Table}}

== Materials ==

''(see also: [[Metal#Weapon_.26_Armor_Quality|Metal: Armor Quality]])''

'''Armor material effectiveness changed recently. [http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=53571.0 Simulation testing] is still ongoing, so these results should be considered merely Fine quality, not Masterwork.'''

It should be noted that armor material is extremely important now. For example, fully iron-armored dwarves with iron short swords stand no chance against steel-equipped ones. A weapon has difficulty piercing armor of the same material (e.g. steel short swords vs. steel armor). However, blunt weapons (such as maces or war hammers) have a much easier time damaging individuals through armor. Testing has shown that even a copper mace is a threat to a dwarf in a steel chain shirt! Breastplates and greaves, being rigid protection, are required to properly protect against blunt weapons.

{|border="1" cellpadding="5" style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;text-align:center"
! Game version !! Poor !! Fair !! Good !! Excellent !! Best
|-
| <= 0.31.11 ||rowspan="2"| Copper || Iron || Bronze ||rowspan="2"| Steel ||rowspan="2"| Adamantine
|-
| >= 0.31.12 || Bronze || Iron
|}

==Types of Protection==

Garments fit on different body parts depending on the item in question, and require different orders based on material sometimes.

They may additionally protect upper and lower arms and legs, depending on the garment. Dwarves do not seem to make a distinction between genders when selecting clothing to wear, so don't be startled when you see males running around in dresses.

There is no real difference between armor and clothing, except materials and that only non-clothing garments increase the {{L|armor user}} skill.

Note that the availability of specific articles of clothing varies from civilization to civilization. So, one civilization may not be able to make vests, another may not be able to make togas, still another may not be able to make dresses and cloaks. By the way, cloaks protect the eyes somewhat, according to combat logs. Dresses and Robes may offer superior protection as well.

Note that Dwarves can potentially manufacture items listed in their raws in the file \raw\objects\entity_default.txt, while other items exist which can never be made by un-modded dwarves, such as a head scarf or face veil. As well, some clothing articles may not be crafted in fortresses of a given {{L|civilization}} - only those items marked as 'common' for that civilization may be crafted.

===Headgear===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cap
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%

|-
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Helm[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|-
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Hood
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mask†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Turban†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Head Veil†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Face Veil†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Headscarf†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|}

===Upper Body===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UBSTEP}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|LBSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Dress
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Tunic
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Toga
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Vest
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Robe
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coat
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather Armor[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Breastplate[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|9
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Plate
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cape†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|300
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|}

===Hands===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UPSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Gloves
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Gauntlets[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mittens
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cover
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|}

===Lower Body===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|LBSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Trousers
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|4
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leggings[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|5
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Greaves[S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|6
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Plate
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Plate
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Loincloths†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Thongs†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Skirts (Short)†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Skirts†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Skirts (Long)†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Braies
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|30
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|}

===Foot Protection===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UPSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Socks
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Sandal†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shoes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothes
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Over
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Low Boots
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|High Boots
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1+
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|25
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chausses (sockmail)†
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|3
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Leather
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Chain
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|10
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Under
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|100%
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|MAX
|}

===Shield===
{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Clothing Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Armor Level*
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Material Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Cloth|Fiber}}/{{L|Silk}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Leather}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Bone}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Shell}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Metal}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Wood}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Size}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|Permit}}
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Layer
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Coverage %
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|{{L|Armor#Coverage|UPSTEP}}
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Buckler
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|1
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|4
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Shield
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|NA
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|2
|}

* The armor level of an item with a "+" can be increased by one if made from metal.
*† {{=}} This article cannot be crafted by dwarves (except for [[artifact]]s), but may be purchased in trade.
*[S] {{=}} shaped item, max one [S] per body slot (e.g. plate mail cannot be worn with leather armor, but can be worn with chain mail, and greaves and leggings cannot be combined).

==Equipping Clothing==

Items in Dwarf Fortress must be equipped in a specific order. A dwarf must equip a layer type of Under before he equips a layer of type Over, for example. The complete order goes: Under, Armor, Over, Cover. It is common among civilians to see a dwarf equip pants with no undergarments due to this restriction, even when an undergarment is available. This is typically not an issue with soldiers, however.

In order to determine if a piece of gear can be equipped or not, you must follow the logic below.
*''Current Item'' refers to the specific item being equipped.
*''Total Size'' refers to the {{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|size}} of all items equipped on that body part, excluding the item to be equipped (and including those on a different {{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|layer}}).
*''Permit'' refers to the '''current item's''' {{L|Armor#Size, Permit, and layering armor|permit}}.

The dwarf (or other creature) ...
:*will determine if he is eligible to wear the item in question (Perhaps the body part is missing/severed).
:*must start with the lowest layer first, continuing to the next layer when no other items of that layer need to be equipped
:*checks if the item is shaped [S], and will only equip the item if no other shaped items are equipped '''on that body part'''.
:*will equip items with lowest permit level first. If two items share the same permit value, the highest size item will be equipped first{{verify}}.
:*then checks if his total size (excluding the current item) is less than the current item's permit.
:*If all above logic is true, the dwarf will equip the item.

An example of what would work. The Each item is listed in order of being equipped, in order for the item to be equipped the Total Size must be ''less than or equal to'' the Permit of the item.

{| style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0;background:#F9F9F9;border:1px #AAA solid;border-collapse:collapse;" class="wikitable sortable"
|- style="background:#F2F2F2;text-align:center;"

!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Item Type
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Size
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Permit
!style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Total Size*
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Breastplate [S]
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|0
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|20
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|35
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|50
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|Mail Shirt
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|50
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|65
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|65
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|80
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|95
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|110
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|125
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;"|140
|-

|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|Cloak
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|15
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|150
|style="border:1px #AAA solid;padding:0.2em;color:#F00;"|155
|}

* * = Total Size include the size of all equipped items, but does not include the item being equipped
*Red Text = This item would cannot be equipped, because the total size is larger than the item's permitted size.

==Size, Permit, and layering armor==

The '''Size''' and '''Permit''' values govern how much clothing or armor can be worn.

Under the old system the lowest "permit" value for any given body part is used: for instance, if a dwarf is wearing a dress (permit value: 50) and a total of 50 or more ''size'' worth of clothing on the upper body, it cannot put any more clothing on the upper body. (This explains why the old {{L|dungeon master}}s tend to wear several cloaks: they arrive at the fortress wearing only a cloak on the upper body (permit 150), and can put on a total of 10 of them, at 15 size each.)

Unfortunately, [LAYER:COVER] items are the only items playing by the old rules. This much is certain from testing in arena mode.

:*If the item to be add is a [LAYER:COVER] item, add the total item size on the body part, if this sum is '''less than or equal to''' the item's permit value then evaluate as true.
:*If a [LAYER:ARMOR] item is present or to be added and if the sum of the non [LAYER:COVER] items would be '''less than''' the sum of the [LAYER:ARMOR] size+permit values then evaluate as true.
:*If one or more items of the same non-[LAYER:COVER] layer as the one being added are present and if the sum of their size values is '''less than''' the smallest permit value then evaluate as true.
:*If the sum of the size values for all items on the body part are '''less than or equal to''' the permit value of the item about to be added then evaluate as true.

The item is allowed if all rules either evaluate to true or are not applicable. This is in addition to the rule allowing only one shaped item on a given body part at a time.

Example: A helm(30 size,20 permit) means you can put on a mask(20,10) or two caps(10,20), but only two head veils(10,100). Any of these configurations can fit 6 additional hoods if desired.

Example: Wearing a cap(10,15) allows only one face veil(10,100), because they are both [LAYER:UNDER], but an additional combined total of up to 9 head veils and hoods is possible.

Note that the armor value of socks and other clothing is unknown under the new system - however, wearing them under "armor" such as boots is recommended for an adventurer.

'''{{L|Adventurer mode}}''' follows the arena rules so it is possible to have three chain mail shirts(15,50), a breastplate(20,50), and 25 capes(10,300) on ones upper body plus two caps(or one mask), a helm, and six hoods on ones head. Confirmation is needed to see if {{L|fortress mode}} follows the old rules or the new arena rules. (I tested this and found that Urist McNopants follows a totally different set of rules than either of these. His rules tell him to forget both caps all of the hoods both socks and his trousers, and each sucessive time he gets dressed he feels the need to do it differently.)

===Some more workaround about Size, Permit and Layering===

* You can only have one shaped armor piece (marked with '''[S]''') per body part.
* The total size of non-cover items must be ''lower'' than any armour piece's permit + size total.
* The total size of all items of any layer on any body part must be lower than the lowest permit value (excluding that item).
* The total size of all items on any body part must be lower than the size + permit value of any cover item.
* All items are put on in order of their layer.

As an example, lets say you want to kit out your soldiers upper body. Try walking through this in arena mode to get a feel for it.

You start off with a {{L|steel}} breastplate. This has a size of '''20''' and a permit of '''50'''. It is also '''shaped''', so you can't add any other shaped items; no more breastplates and no {{L|leather}} armor.

Now you want to add mail shirts. Each one has a permit of '''50''' and a size of '''15'''. You can add three of these if you want. It checks the size against each of the armour pieces permit + size (or rather, the permit value ignoring that items size in the calculation), like so;
* Against each of the mail shirts, you have '''2 x 15 = 30''' total size in mail shirts, '''+ 20''' from the breastplate, matching the '''50''' permit.
* Against the breastplate you have '''3 x 15 = 45 < 50''', fine.
Now if you add a fourth mail shirt these test will fail. However, because of the layering order (mail shirts being armour layer 2, the breastplate armour layer 3) the breastplate is added after the shirts. This results in the breastplate being dropped.

Because this reaches the '''50''' permit limit for the mail shirts, you can't add more non-cover items without substituting them for existing items. If you want a robe (size '''20'''), for example, you need to remove two of the mail shirts to clear a total size of '''30''', which then lets you add an extra size '''10''' shirt, vest or whatever.

However, you can add cover layer items. In this case, cloaks. Each cloak has a size of '''15''' and a permit of '''150'''. Taking into account the '''65''' size already on the upper body, we can add '''100''' size worth of cloaks. This lets us add '''6''' ('''x 15 = 90''') cloaks over the existing armour.

Going through like this for the rest of the body (most of it is simpler) gives you a final setup of;

'''Head''' 
2 x caps 
1 x helm 
6 x hood

'''Upper Body''' 
1 x breastplate 
3 x mail shirts 
6 x cloaks

'''Upper Body (cheap)''' 
6 x dress 
3 x robe 
3 x cloak 

'''Lower Body''' 
3 x long skirts 
1 x greaves

'''Lower Body (no foreign items)''' 
2 x trousers 
1 x greaves

'''Lower Body (cheap)''' 
2 x trousers 
1 x leggings

'''Hands''' 
1 x pairs of gauntlets 
1 x pairs of mittens

'''Hands (cheap)''' 
2 x pairs of gloves 
1 x pairs of mittens

'''Feet''' 
1 x pairs of chausses 
1 x pairs of high boots

'''Feet (no foreign items)''' 
1 x pairs of socks 
1 x pairs of high boots

'''Feet (cheap)''' 
1 x pairs of socks 
1 x pairs of shoes

Of course, so long as the bugs are still around, we are likely to see dwarves wearing more than this or refusing to put parts on because they found their boots before their socks.

''Note: "Cheap" implies the set can be made from secondary materials such as bone and cloth with item types not overlapping with the other, more combat oriented set which use metal, leather and cloth (for socks). As a rule of thumb, combat sets provide better protection but cheap sets are lighter and easier to mass produce.''

===Coverage===

There are three tags that govern how far coverage reaches.

:'''[UBSTEP]'''
This token, when applied to torso armor, controls how far 'up' the body an item of armor reaches. Basically you can think of it as going out in stages along the body. It doesn't cover legs. It doesn't cover body parts with certain tags (notably [HEAD], [GRASP] and [STANCE], or the head). It can cover the children of such body parts (such as parts of the face) if it extends beyond them. The upper body and lower body are counted as 0 steps away, and so both always covered.

Breastplates have a default of 0, meaning they only cover the torso. 
Mail shirts have [UBSTEP:1], so cover the upper arms.

A number of clothing items have [UBSTEP:MAX]. What exactly this covers depends on a certain bug, but unless you are making adamantine robes you probably won't get that much extra protection this way anyway. This would mean, for example, they would cover the upper arm, lower arm, skip the hand, then cover the fingers. The same goes for facial features (and, oddly, the throat) after skipping the head and the toes after skipping the entire legs and feet. 
The clothes with these properties seem to be robes, cloaks, coats, shirts and dresses. However, of these only robes and dresses also have [LBSTEP:MAX] (see below) and so I'm not sure if anything else would actually cover toes or not. Needs additional testing.

Testing in arena: in three 15x15 dwarves battles where both sides was equiped with iron battle axes and iron full armor and one of the teams was enforced with leather robes, team with robes was a victorious (2-3 survivors).

:'''[LBSTEP]'''
This token, when applied to torso armor or pants, controls how much of the legs an item covers. Legs in this case are defined as [LIMB] body parts that end in a [STANCE] body part (eg, foot). Arms are [LIMB]s, but end in a [GRASP] hand instead. Because the upper and lower body are effectively zero steps from each other, torso armour can extend this way easily.

Both greaves and leggings have [LBSTEP:MAX] and so cover the entire leg to the best of their ability. 
Mail shirts have [LBSTEP:1] and so can protect the upper legs. A range of other clothes (including cloaks) and leather armour also have this.
As mentioned above, robes and dresses have [LBSTEP:MAX] and so cover the entire legs. These also have [UBSTEP:MAX] and so cover the entire body. Although not the strongest armour, a leather (or maybe adamantine?) robe or dress gives you maximum coverage.

:'''[UPSTEP]'''
This token, when applied to gloves or shoes, determines how far up the limb the armor protects. As with [LBSTEP], this doesn't cover anything but the [LIMB] tag body parts, but it does cover arms as well as legs.

Low boots literally only cover the foot. 
High boots have [UPSTEP:1], so cover the lower leg. If you consider the upper legs can covered by [LBSTEP] from above, you can effectively have an entire layer of chain armour on the legs from high boots and a mail shirt even before adding leg armour. This is why I go with greaves for a plate layer.
Gauntlets have [UPSTEP:1], so cover the lower arms. Because there is no other protection for arms as there is for legs, you need gauntlets and mail shirts to protect your arms fully.
Chausses are a very rare sock substitute, but they are the only items to have [UPSTEP:MAX] and so offer full leg coverage while being exactly the same size as regular socks. The perfect undergarment.

The whole method is pretty nifty with just two problems. 
* Faces can't be covered by head armour.
* Throats cannot be protected by metal armor (except adamantine cloth).

In previous versions toes and fingers were not protected by armor. However as of 31.17 both are now protected by the relevant armor type, e.g gauntlets cover fingers and boots cover toes.

=== Other Restrictions ===

In fortress mode, "under" layers cannot be put on over "over" layers, so, for instance, a dwarf cannot put on socks unless it first removes its shoes. They can wear over layers without putting an under layer on first, which explains their fondness for "going commando" (trousers without loincloth). Dwarves will only put on the specific armor they are told to put on -- unless they are not told what to wear.

In adventurer mode, you have direct control over what armor you put on, and are only limited by permit and "one only" (shaped) restrictions. This means you can wear three suits of chain mail (total size 45) plus another suit of chain or plate on top of them. On top of this, you can add six cloaks.

== Bugs ==
Metal armor currently only requires 1 bar of a metal to forge; however, when out of bars, the {{L|announcement}} indicates the expected number of bars required:
:''"Urist McArmorsmith cancels forge <x-metal> breast plate: needs 3 <x-metal> bars."''

In adventurer mode, putting a pair of socks (or any under-layer foot wear) on before putting on a pair of boots (or any over-layer foot wear) will keep you from putting on the last boot. So the order sock, sock, boot, boot doesn't work, but changing the order to sock, boot, sock, boot does. This is a very minor bug.

v0.31:Dam

2010-12-13T07:05:02Z

RadGH: Undo revision 133429 by RadGH (Talk)

{{quality|Masterwork|00:23, 9 October 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

[[Image:dam.jpg|right]]

A dam can be built across a [[river]] or [[brook]]. This has several uses:

*Stop a river from flowing altogether
*Modify a river's path
*Create a pretty lake or functional reservoir
*Create water-based traps

A river will not "overflow" its banks above its starting level because of a dam. (Note - if a waterfall is upstream, the ''upper level'' is the "starting level"!)

==Dam Building==

Finding the direction the water flows is probably a necessary step to take. This is actually fairly simple - at one end, the river falls off the map, and so is of a low water height. Check the outmost tiles of both ends of the river.

===Ice Method===
The easiest and quickest method of Dam manufacture is only possible if your map freezes during winter. Simply dig out a thin section of {{L|channel}}s across the river and build a wall out of floodgates, blocking the path of the water.

===Draining Method===

Another way is to drain the river. This can be done by building a tunnel next to the river that dumps into a chasm or deep valley. The dumping tunnel should only be one square wide, with a single floodgate to control it, as long as where the water first enters it has a fairly large number of squares of "Open Space" to move into. The water over Open Space will rapidly force its way down, forcing the rest to flow at warp speed. Be sure the floodgate is operational, as this sort of flow imposes terrible game lag while active. The more edge tiles drained from, the faster the level will go down enough to allow construction.

An alternative method to this is to use a large number of pumps to move more water out of the river than can be replaced by the water flow. For a river with a width of 4 tiles, you will need <s> three on either side </s> four pumps spanning the river pumping it into channels or tunnels, ideally off the map, a waterfall, or somewhere where flooding will not be a concern. While the pumps are operating, it will be drained enough to build the dam. A little more mechanic intensive method is using nine pumps, four to pump where your floodgates will go, four to pump out places for your workers to stand up/downstream, and one to keep a ramp clear to retrieve the dwarves. This method has the advantage on not needing channels/tunnels saving that layer for future construction.

If your dwarves are persistent enough you can also dig out a large chamber under the river at Z-1, channel out holes on both sides at Z0, and cover these holes with walled-in bridges. When you raise the bridges the water drops down; when you lower them it starts flowing again. This avoids the 'infinite hole' bug that can result if you uses collapses to punch holes in the bottom of brooks.

One other possible method of disposing of that water is channeling it to an {{L|aquifer}} lower that the river, it will absorb the pressurized water. The best part of this method is that the {{L|aquifer}} will likely be almost directly under the river, minimizing the needed construction.

You can also smooth and carve fortifications into the very last tile on a z level below surface (if that last tile is rock, and not soil) and water will flow through the fortifications and off the edge of the map.

[[Image:DammingEfforts.png|left|thumb|200px|An example of how to construct a magma dam.]]

===Magma Method===

If you have access to a {{L|magma}} source, you can pump magma into the flowing water. When the magma and water collide, the result is a tile of {{L|obsidian}}- an added bonus if you're in the market for making obsidian items. Pump enough magma into the river to reach both banks for a stretch at least 3-4 tiles wide in order to give your dwarves enough space to channel out the obsidian and place {{L|floodgate}}s. 
'''Beware:''' Pumping magma too close to the edge of the map could result in permanently damming your river! Obsidian tiles created on the edge of the map cannot be mined out!

If you wish to move magma over a brook without damming it, constructed floors over the brook tiles work.

===Natural {{L|Cave-in}} ===
If your river is '''{{L|River#Underground Rivers|underground}}''', you can use {{L|channel}}ing to collapse a section of rock into it. If this rock was {{L|construction|construct}}ed (i.e., you built it as walls or floors), it will revert to its component stones and sink to the bottom, not blocking the river at all. However, if the rock is '''natural''', it will retain its shape and block the flow of water.

Since above-ground rivers normally do not pass beneath natural rock, this strategy is difficult to apply to them. But dwarven ingenuity should never be underestimated.

==Your Dam==

===The Dam===
[[Image:Dam2.JPG|left]]
After your dam has been completed and looks something like the image, you can expect water to just stop flowing UNLESS there is a waterfall. If that is the case, the water will just flow around it after flooding a fair amount of space around it. If you messed up while making a magma dam and permanently obstructed the edge of the map, you can expect the entire world to flood up to the point where water enters.

===Actually Building===
Once the river has been drained (which can take a VERY long time), you may have to dig into the riverbed by ordering a channel to be dug in the open space tile above the tile you want to build on. The result of this, however, is that the tile is no longer considered a brook/river and it behaves like any other storage of water. It no longer colored a pretty light-blue and nothing (including dwarfs, caravans, goblins, etc) can walk on top of it. This can be very annoying, so be prepared.

However if your dwarves have access to the river bed they can 'mine' the bed out leaving the pretty blue surface (or dull gery surface when there is no water). you should leave some form of access to the <s>bed</s> channel at the farthest downstream point to let wanderers out of the bed if you decide to open your dam

===Further Possibilities===
*Most of the above techniques can be used to puncture oceans and lakes, for dikes or random under-water bunkers.
*You can create a massive flood if you build a dam out of floodgates and open them all at once. Good for traps. Works with magma.
*Being in control of your local river/brook makes you more of a <s>man</s> dwarf.

[[Category:Guides]]
{{Water FAQ}}

v0.31:Dam

2010-12-13T07:02:44Z

RadGH: /* Actually Building */

{{quality|Masterwork|00:23, 9 October 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}

[[Image:dam.jpg|right]]

A dam can be built across a [[river]] or [[brook]]. This has several uses:

*Stop a river from flowing altogether
*Modify a river's path
*Create a pretty lake or functional reservoir
*Create water-based traps

A river will not "overflow" its banks above its starting level because of a dam. (Note - if a waterfall is upstream, the ''upper level'' is the "starting level"!)

==Dam Building==

Finding the direction the water flows is probably a necessary step to take. This is actually fairly simple - at one end, the river falls off the map, and so is of a low water height. Check the outmost tiles of both ends of the river.

===Ice Method===
The easiest and quickest method of Dam manufacture is only possible if your map freezes during winter. Simply dig out a thin section of {{L|channel}}s across the river and build a wall out of floodgates, blocking the path of the water.

===Draining Method===

Another way is to drain the river. This can be done by building a tunnel next to the river that dumps into a chasm or deep valley. The dumping tunnel should only be one square wide, with a single floodgate to control it, as long as where the water first enters it has a fairly large number of squares of "Open Space" to move into. The water over Open Space will rapidly force its way down, forcing the rest to flow at warp speed. Be sure the floodgate is operational, as this sort of flow imposes terrible game lag while active. The more edge tiles drained from, the faster the level will go down enough to allow construction.

An alternative method to this is to use a large number of pumps to move more water out of the river than can be replaced by the water flow. For a river with a width of 4 tiles, you will need <s> three on either side </s> four pumps spanning the river pumping it into channels or tunnels, ideally off the map, a waterfall, or somewhere where flooding will not be a concern. While the pumps are operating, it will be drained enough to build the dam. A little more mechanic intensive method is using nine pumps, four to pump where your floodgates will go, four to pump out places for your workers to stand up/downstream, and one to keep a ramp clear to retrieve the dwarves. This method has the advantage on not needing channels/tunnels saving that layer for future construction.

If your dwarves are persistent enough you can also dig out a large chamber under the river at Z-1, channel out holes on both sides at Z0, and cover these holes with walled-in bridges. When you raise the bridges the water drops down; when you lower them it starts flowing again. This avoids the 'infinite hole' bug that can result if you uses collapses to punch holes in the bottom of brooks.

One other possible method of disposing of that water is channeling it to an {{L|aquifer}} lower that the river, it will absorb the pressurized water. The best part of this method is that the {{L|aquifer}} will likely be almost directly under the river, minimizing the needed construction.

You can also smooth and carve fortifications into the very last tile on a z level below surface (if that last tile is rock, and not soil) and water will flow through the fortifications and off the edge of the map.

[[Image:DammingEfforts.png|left|thumb|200px|An example of how to construct a magma dam.]]

===Magma Method===

If you have access to a {{L|magma}} source, you can pump magma into the flowing water. When the magma and water collide, the result is a tile of {{L|obsidian}}- an added bonus if you're in the market for making obsidian items. Pump enough magma into the river to reach both banks for a stretch at least 3-4 tiles wide in order to give your dwarves enough space to channel out the obsidian and place {{L|floodgate}}s. 
'''Beware:''' Pumping magma too close to the edge of the map could result in permanently damming your river! Obsidian tiles created on the edge of the map cannot be mined out!

If you wish to move magma over a brook without damming it, constructed floors over the brook tiles work.

===Natural {{L|Cave-in}} ===
If your river is '''{{L|River#Underground Rivers|underground}}''', you can use {{L|channel}}ing to collapse a section of rock into it. If this rock was {{L|construction|construct}}ed (i.e., you built it as walls or floors), it will revert to its component stones and sink to the bottom, not blocking the river at all. However, if the rock is '''natural''', it will retain its shape and block the flow of water.

Since above-ground rivers normally do not pass beneath natural rock, this strategy is difficult to apply to them. But dwarven ingenuity should never be underestimated.

==Your Dam==

===The Dam===
[[Image:Dam2.JPG|left]]
After your dam has been completed and looks something like the image, you can expect water to just stop flowing UNLESS there is a waterfall. If that is the case, the water will just flow around it after flooding a fair amount of space around it. If you messed up while making a magma dam and permanently obstructed the edge of the map, you can expect the entire world to flood up to the point where water enters.

===Actually Building===
Once the river has been drained (which can take a VERY long time), you may have to dig into the riverbed by ordering a channel to be dug in the open space tile above the tile you want to build on. The result of this, however, is that the tile is no longer considered a brook and it behaves like any other storage of water. It no longer colored a pretty light-blue and nothing (including dwarfs, caravans, goblins, etc) can walk on top of it. This can be very annoying, so be prepared.

However if your dwarves have access to the river bed they can 'mine' the bed out leaving the pretty blue surface (or dull gery surface when there is no water). you should leave some form of access to the <s>bed</s> channel at the farthest downstream point to let wanderers out of the bed if you decide to open your dam

===Further Possibilities===
*Most of the above techniques can be used to puncture oceans and lakes, for dikes or random under-water bunkers.
*You can create a massive flood if you build a dam out of floodgates and open them all at once. Good for traps. Works with magma.
*Being in control of your local river/brook makes you more of a <s>man</s> dwarf.

[[Category:Guides]]
{{Water FAQ}}

v0.31 Talk:Activity zone

2010-12-11T09:35:32Z

RadGH:

==Animal pit, keep them from going away==
I have a pit in which I like to keep all my animals for butchering. There is a door which is tightly closed. However when my butcher goes in to take an animal all the animals escape. What can I do to fix this?
I placed it above ground because I read somewhere that animals prefer this. It still doesn't help :(
: For now, not much. Best solution is to stick them in a cage near your butcher (and possibly also your farmer's workshops so your animals can be easily milked). Assigning the animals to the cage is not much different from sticking them in a cage, except that you only need to do it once because they cannot escape from the cage like they would a pit. Of course, this may also prevent them from breeding unless they get time out of the cage (for example, if you milk them). Pregnant animals will give birth in a cage, but they will not get pregnant again while in the cage. [[User:Niveras|Niveras]] 22:43, 28 November 2010 (UTC)
:: If you need to pit some for breeding, placing the pit zone furthest away from the door makes it less likely they'll reach it to attempt escape. If you have some caged for milking and have milkable breeds in the pit, you can also forbid the door so your milker won't get the bright idea to let them all loose. [[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 04:44, 29 November 2010 (UTC)
::: Thanks for the help. Originally I planned to make a large outdoor area just for the animals, but it seems it's just impossible to do. I hope this function gets added soon because all these puppies/cow/horses running around is just a big mess. Guess dumping them all in a lava pool is the best solution
::: Put them on a bunch of ropes if you want them to breed, or you want the 'field full of animals' look.

==Flow-stylee activity zones?==
Does anyone know what this comment in the 0.31.02 changelog at [http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=53505.0] means:
* fixed crash from doing a large flow-style activity zone

What is a flow-style activity zone?
--[[User:Altaree|Altaree]] 14:12, 9 April 2010 (UTC)
:When you are at the activity zone definition/selection state (right after hitting the Zones key from the main menu), you will see a key listed as "rectangle" (default "e") on the menu. Pressing that key toggles between three zone creation states: "rectangle" (the default, you set one corner of a rectangle and then the other), "flow" (you select a location and the area is "filled" with the activity zone, just like defining a room, and can be expanded and contracted the same way), and "floor flow" (not sure what the difference between it and "flow" is, anyone else done any testing?). I'm guessing zones don't become a simple property of the map squares where you defined the zone, like stock(p)iles and (d)esignations do. Instead the way you defined the zone is saved, and the area it occupies is re-calculated with every frame, after the zone menu is closed and play resumes. So a "flow-style" activity zone would be one that was originally defined using the "flow" method, and a large one could cause a performance hit at least, simply because its borders need to be recalculated from the definition every frame, which can get pretty complicated for some convoluted fortress designs. --[[Special:Contributions/66.190.120.90|66.190.120.90]] 15:45, 1 May 2010 (UTC)
::I'm fairly sure the flow area selected does not change shape even if walls originally inhibiting the flow are removed. This is based on observation with making rooms and expanding them. Should be easy to confirm.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 04:44, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
::Flow will include but not pass through walls, floor flow will not include walls. I've had this crash several times, glad it's fixed. [[User:Mason11987|Mason]] ([[User talk:Mason11987|T]]-[[Special:Contributions/Mason11987|C]]) 11:52, 24 May 2010 (UTC)

==Zone-canceling crash==
It seems that whenever I cancel a zone while I am still placing it, the game crashes. It's pretty easily avoidable(finish building it, then delete it), but still annoying. Is this happening to anyone else?--[[User:Pvt. Miller|Pvt. Miller]] 21:51, 15 April 2010 (UTC)
::I can confirm this, happens to me every time. It's a bummer.

== Failure to dump items ==

I have a dozen clothing items on the ground marked for dumping that aren't being dumped. They're not on top of a stockpile, "gather refuse from outside" is turned ON, the items are not forbidden, I have a garbage dump zone AND refuse pile, and dwarves have refuse hauling enabled. I have many idlers. Stone from within my fortress gets dumped, but these clothing items do not. What gives? --[[Special:Contributions/208.81.12.34|208.81.12.34]] 14:12, 30 April 2010 (UTC)

Sounds like the items are owned. Owned items cannot be dumped. Only the owning dwarf can move them. View the item, and see if it lists an owner. If so, the only way to get them moved is to give the dwarf their own room (bedroom is good), and place a cabinet into that room. The dwarf will eventually grab up their discarded clothes and place them into the cabinet. --[[User:Darkstar|Darkstar]] 17:11, 5 May 2010 (UTC)

I have a similar problem, though the item in question is a random stone, and I have double-checked it is not owned.

Dwarves will also frequently drop food while carrying it somewhere to eat, and it can never be moved again if this happens. Apparently something in the ownership tags gets screwed up, so the food ends up owned by a null "nobody" dwarf that prevents removal of the food by any dwarf, including the one that dropped the food. My trade depot is currently full of miasma due to these unmovable dropped meals. Turning off all jobs except "refuse hauling" only leaves the dwarves that own the food standing around with "No Job." --[[User:Tatterdemalian|Tatterdemalian]] 03:10, 24 May 2010 (UTC)

You probably have some construction designed (and maybe suspended) using that stone, so the stone is reserved for that construction and can't be moved anywhere else. This happened to me a lot when I had a wall around my fortress designed, but suspended: all the materials indicated for building the wall were unavailable for anything else, including dumping. --[[Special:Contributions/188.82.156.156|188.82.156.156]] 20:54, 12 June 2010 (UTC)

It seems hauling is slightly bugged; items which cannot be hauled to their appropriate location can prevent other items from being hauled (there appears to be a hauling queue with a certain number of available slots; if the top of the queue is full of inaccessible items, dumping will come to a grinding halt, and possibly other hauling jobs as well). If you run into a persistent problem in which dwarves aren't dumping goods, more than likely you have items needing to be hauled which cannot be accessed by any living dwarf (common if you, like me, leave migrants outside the fortress proper to starve to death). Forbidding inaccessible items -may- resolve the issue, but if not, undesignate all dump orders for inaccessible items, and undesignate all inaccessible stockpiles. If you use burrows, you may want to temporarily disable them until your dwarves sort their hauling problems out.

== Did I build a floor on top of the dump? ==
I think I built a floor on top of an outdoors dump zone. Everyone was restricted to burrows. Zillion cancel-dump-dropoff-inaccessible messages. Miners refused to dig! Removing floor and letting dorfs outdoors... solved. --[[User:TomiTapio|TomiTapio]] 18:29, 29 July 2010 (UTC)

== (dwarf) cancels fill pond: cannot find path ==

I keep getting this message, along with a very, very confused dwarf. He seems fine after I cancel a few times, but then either he tries again or someone else does. It isn't much of a problem(yet), but constant spamming is really annoying. I am on Reclaim.

== Verify: ==

I can verify everything that needs verified, except for powder showing up where 1 item of powder is 150 units. This is because at the current point powder does not go into a hospital stockpile and as such this cannot be measured. It can be assumed that it follows the same rules as soap, but at this point it's all conjecture. --[[User:Eurytus|Eurytus]] 12:26, 19 September 2010 (UTC)

== Fishing in a well ==
The [[Zones]] page states that fishing must be done over open water, not through grates or a well. However, the [[Well]] page states "Dwarfs can (and will) fish from a well if that labor is designated. This does not harm the well." --[[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 09:35, 11 December 2010 (UTC)

v0.31:Activity zone

2010-12-11T09:32:52Z

RadGH:

{{quality|Fine|08:37, 14 September 2010 (UTC)}}{{AV}}

'''Activity zones''' are areas in which {{l|dwarf|dwarves}} are instructed to perform specific tasks, such as {{l|fishing}}, dumping objects, or collecting {{l|water}}. While activity zones are optional for the performance of certain tasks (fishing, collecting water) and obligatory for certain others (dumping), they can also be used to help keep dwarves out of {{l|fun|danger}}.

Activity zones can be placed in any {{l|revealed tile}}, including in {{l|open space}} or over a {{l|river}} or on top of a {{l|building}} or {{l|stockpile}}. They are placed in one of three ways: rectangular, flow, or floor flow. From within the Zones {{l|menu}}, ({{K|i}})Pressing {{K|e}} in the Zones menu cycles through each method, and pressing {{K|Enter}} begins designation. Rectangular zones are placed in the same manner as stockpiles, specifying two corners of the rectangle. Flow and floor flow are placed similarly to designating rooms from pieces of furniture using {{K|+}}/{{K|-}} to adjust the size (floor flow excludes walls). After that the zone has to be assigned to one of the listed tasks to become functional, by pressing the proper key. In some cases ({{l|healthcare|hospital}}, pit/pond) additional orders can then be set from the same menu.

The location of a zone is only visible while in the Zones menu, and any object lying on the ground will hide the presence of a zone tile.

== Water Source ==
:Shortcut {{k|w}}
Dwarves will draw water from this zone, for instance when filling ponds. In order for your dwarves to use this zone correctly, some part of this zone must include the solid ground that is next to the water. For example, make half of your zone cover a brook and the other half cover the bank next to the brook.

== Fishing ==
:Shortcut {{k|f}}
The same above advice for '''water source''' zones is applicable to fishing zones. You cannot fish through a {{L|grate}} or {{L|well}} {{verify}}, it must be an open source of water.

== Garbage Dump ==
:Shortcut {{k|g}}

Garbage dump zones are areas in which dwarves will throw items specifically designated by using {{k|k}} then {{k|d}} for single items at a time, or {{key|d}}, {{key|b}}, {{key|d}} to designate a larger area to be dumped (or use the mouse to point and click). Garbage dumps are not the same as {{l|Refuse#Refuse|refuse}} stockpiles, which can be designated to accept any specific type(s) of refuse-type item, such as animal {{l|corpse}}s or {{l|bones}}, and then are randomly filled by haulers as the items become available on the map.

Garbage dumps:
:* Only accept items that have been marked for dumping.
:* Require dwarfs to have {{L|refuse hauling}} {{L|labor}} enabled.
::* Are subject to refuse orders (''{{k|o}}: Set Orders and Options -> {{k|r}}: Refuse Orders''). Most notably, dwarves will not dump items that are outside unless you allow them to ({{k|o}}->{{k|r}}->{{k|o}}).

To place a garbage dump, trace a zone on either a relatively empty plot of land or adjacent to a cliff face or hole. If a garbage zone is designated beside a {{L|cliff}} or hole (both natural or dwarf made) garbage will be thrown off/in the z-space. Each ground tile within that zone is considered a garbage dump tile; thus, if you want to place a single-tile zone, place the zone onto a ground tile (optionally adjacent to a cliff or {{L|pit}}), not onto an {{L|open space}}.
Items dumped into {{L|magma}} (provided they are not {{L|magma safe}}) will disappear permanently. Otherwise a single tile (either a dump zone, or the ground below the open space) will hold any number of dumped objects.

Once items are dumped they are automatically marked as "{{l|forbid}}den" however they will not dump items that are also forbidden. If you wish to use dumped items, you need to reclaim them. Press {{k|k}} to view the item and {{k|f}} to toggle forbid status. You may also use the reclaim {{L|designation}} to reclaim simultaneously all of the items dumped by using {{key|d}}, {{key|b}}, {{key|c}} and tracing the designation over top of the objects.

If a garbage dump is located next to open space, dwarves will always stand on a garbage dump square when throwing ''into that open space'', even if it could potentially be done more efficiently. If a garbage dump is located next to multiple tiles of open space, they seem to prefer the one farthest to the northwest. If a tile to the north and a tile to the west are the only tiles available, they will throw to the west. Since falling objects do not hurt dwarves, such garbage dumps can be a very efficient method of moving materials to the lower levels of your fortress.

Dwarves seem to throw dumped items in the nearest available garbage dump, although this is probably not reliable given that they don't always use the nearest available item to make things at workshops. If a nearer zone becomes available as they are traveling to a zone they will ignore it. Also, they seem to prefer dumps that allow them to throw things in to open space regardless of how far away they are.

Probably due to a bug, dwarves periodically ignore items that are meant to be dumped. Viewing the item by pressing {{k|k}} then toggling forbid and dump status on, then off again {{k|f}}->{{k|f}}->{{k|d}}->{{k|d}} seems to correct this problem.

== Pit/Pond ==
:Shortcut {{k|p}}

A Pit/Pond requires a {{L|ramp}} or hole with adjacent flooring on which a dwarf can stand. Designate the zone from the top of the ramp or hole. By default, the zone will be a pit. To change it to a pond, press {{k|P}} then {{k|f}}. It can be changed back to a pit the same way.

Animals can be assigned to a pit through the {{k|P}} menu. A dwarf will lead the beast to the pit and leave it there. (If the pit is a ramp rather than a hole, the animal will then wander off.)

Dwarves will attempt to fill a pond with {{L|water}}, carried by {{L|bucket}} from a water-gathering zone. They will stand on the floor adjacent to the top of the ramp or hole, and toss the water onto the ramp or into the hole. Each bucketful increases the depth of the water in the tile below by 1/7. Once the water is dumped from the bucket, the dwarf will either drop the bucket and perform a different task, or choose to fill a pond zone tile again using the bucket (s)he currently holds.

Dwarves will stop scheduling the Fill Pond job when the water depth reaches 6/7.

This is one technique used for {{L|farming}}, in order to make {{L|mud}}.

Currently, no matter how large the designated pond area,{{verify}} only one dwarf at a time will try to fill the pond. In order to fill a large area quickly, it is necessary to designate multiple smaller pond zones (or several zones overlapping the same area).

If you have more than one pond designated as a water source, your dwarves may endlessly try to fill each pond with the other pond's water, making a loop of useless duty.

== Sand Collection ==
:Shortcut {{k|s}}

Sand collection zones are important in the {{L|glass industry}}. They may be placed anywhere, but are only useful when actually placed on {{L|sand}}.

== Meeting Area ==
:Shortcut {{k|m}}

Meeting area zones are zones in which idle dwarves and animals will congregate, similar to meeting halls. Additionally, immigrants will collect at a meeting area until their "migrant" status wears off.

Note that the {{l|wagon (embark)|wagon}} you {{l|embark|arrive with}} constitutes a meeting area until you designate the first meeting area of your own. If you start in hostile surroundings it is important to get your dwarves and animals out of danger quickly.

It is a good idea to have at least one meeting area, of one form or another: it allows you to make off-duty dwarves and animals gather in an area where they are not vulnerable, such as within the fortress.

There are several ways to designate a meeting hall. The preferred method is to use an Activity zone; type i, set up a zone, and mark it both "active" and "meeting". {{L|Sculpture garden|Statue gardens}} and {{L|zoo}}s are intrinsically meeting halls, as are {{L|room}}s defined from a {{L|well}}. However, you can also create a Meeting Hall.

A meeting area filled with dwarves increases the social skills of idlers. It makes idle dwarves a little less idle, and makes selecting a replacement broker easier. Because almost every dwarf visits a meeting hall at least occasionally, it's an ideal place to site valuable objects and buildings. A meeting hall exposed to sunlight will prevent dwarves from becoming {{L|cave adaptation|cave-adapted}}.

Be warned that having dwarves socialize will often result in them becoming {{L|friend}}s (or forming a {{L|grudge}}).

== Hospital ==
:Shortcut {{k|h}}

A Hospital zone is an area designated for the {{L|Healthcare|care and treatment}} of sick and {{L|Wound|wounded}} dwarves.

===Setting up a Hospital===

While there are no particular restrictions on the areas that can be set as hospital zones, a hospital requires certain {{l|furniture}} and supplies to function properly:

{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="5"
|-
! Furniture
! Function
|-
| {{L|Bed|Beds}}
| Allow sick dwarves to {{L|Rest|rest}}
|-
| {{L|Table|Tables}}
| Used in surgery{{Verify}}
|-
| {{L|Traction bench|Traction benches}}
| Immobilize dwarves who need to stay still to heal
|-
| {{L|Container|Boxes/Bags}}
| Storage for medical supplies
|}

{| class="wikitable" cellspacing="0" border="1" cellpadding="5"
|-
! Medical equipment
! Function
! Unit quantity*
|-
| {{L|Thread}}
| Required for suturing wounds
| 15000
|-
| {{L|Cloth}}
| Required for bandages
| 10000
|-
| {{L|Splint|Splints}}
| Used to bind broken bones{{verify}}
| 1
|-
| {{L|Crutch|Crutches}}
| Walking aid for dwarves with leg injuries
| 1
|-
| {{L|Gypsum plaster|Powder for casts}}
| Used to make plaster casts for setting bones{{Verify}}
| 150{{Verify}}
|-
| {{L|Bucket|Buckets }}
|
*Used by doctors to carry water for cleaning patients
*Used by dwarves with the Feed Patients/Prisoners labor to water patients
| 1
|-
| {{L|Soap }}
| Used to reduce infections when washing patients
| 150{{verify}}
|}

''*The unit quantity is the quantity of each item that appears in the Hospital Information screen when one object of that type is stored. For example, if one bolt of cloth is stored in the hospital zone, the hospital will report that it contains 10000 cloth.''

In addition to furniture and medical supplies, a {{L|Water|source of water}} is more or less mandatory, as sick dwarves need it for drinking as well as cleaning. The water source need not be in the hospital zone, although the shorter the distance between the two the better.

When the Zones menu ({{k|i}}) is open and the cursor is in a hospital zone, {{k|H}} will bring up the Hospital Information screen. This screen shows the quantity of each type of furniture piece and medical equipment present in the Hospital, and allows you to set the desired quantity of each type of equipment. Note that you must have boxes or bags constructed in the hospital zone for supplies to be stored for medical use; items in a stockpile do not count for the hospital, even if the stockpile is in the hospital zone.

===Hospital Beds===

When a dwarf becomes sick or {{l|wound}}ed, he will be carried to a {{l|bed}} in a hospital zone by a dwarf with the Recovering Wounded labor set, assuming such a bed is available; otherwise, he may be carried to a bed in a {{L|barracks}} or {{L|dormitory}}, or to an unassigned bed. If an injured dwarf is resting in a bed outside a hospital zone, he will remain there even if hospital beds become available. Deconstructing the sick dwarf's bed may cause him to be move to a hospital bed, however, and it may be possible for doctors to treat patients who are resting outside of a hospital zone, so long as adequate supplies are available.{{verify}}

v0.31 Talk:Farming

2010-12-07T05:15:16Z

RadGH: /* Not all squares being used */

== General ==

Placing a farm on rock
Needs Soil or mud
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on surface soil
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on mud found in an underground complex
<<No Error Message>>

So This is either a major bug, or a mechanics change and a minor text inconsistency.[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 22:35, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:This is a bug. You're supposed to be able to farm on soil. I'll try to track down the forum thread, one moment --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:37, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:Aha, so saith the Baughn: http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336
:--[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:41, 1 April 2010 (UTC)
::Who is but a lowly dabbling SDL coder and has not insight into the game code or Toady's intentions.--[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 15:31, 23 May 2010 (UTC)
:::Toady confirmed it too, you realize. Twice.--[[Special:Contributions/174.113.156.80|174.113.156.80]] 01:33, 29 July 2010 (UTC)
::::Quote from: Dr. A - "Farm plots built underground (Inside/Dark/Subterranean) on natural soil will not allow planting"
::::Reply from: Toady One - "I'm not sure yet. I never get a chance to look at it, despite wanting to look at it. The original idea was to require a soil wall beneath a mudless square for it to be farmable, and if it isn't that way, it's a bug. Either way, it is somewhat confusing, because you wouldn't be able to farm in one layer of soil. I'm not sure you should be able to, morally speaking, especially with the underground trees, but it's probably less confusing that way." from http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=62202.msg1424098#msg1424098
::::I shall give this some testing over the next few days to see if a farm on top of a soil wall will allow planting of underground crops without being muddied first.--[[User:Malibu Stacey|Malibu Stacey]] 21:32, 25 August 2010 (UTC)

== Seeds can not be grown on non-soil, non-subterranean tiles ==

I recently attempted to follow the advice in the article, channeling out several tiles near a river, irrigating them, and building a farm plot on the muddied tiles. However, when I tried to set the field to be planted, all seeds (surface AND subterranean) are disabled, and the message "No seeds available for this location" is displayed. The soil layer, as it turns out, was only one tile thick, and even though the tiles are "above ground" (not even indoors yet, I haven't built a roof over them), they are ineligible for any seeds to be planted on... subterranean crops because the tiles are above ground, and surface crops because the floors are mud-covered diorite instead of one of the clay/sand/soil types.

So, be warned... attempting to create an indoor, irrigated surface crop farm will not work if you accidentally channel down to stone. Surface crops will not grow in mud-covered rock, only in soil (mud-covered or otherwise). --[[User:Tatterdemalian|Tatterdemalian]] 22:09, 22 May 2010 (UTC)
:Have same problem... did you dig out the level below your "aboveground" farm? I did (z1 and z2 dug out) and I remember towercaps and the lot can't grow unless they have a floor tiles and wall below (z1 dug out but not z2), perhaps crops follow the same rules? I'll test this.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 05:54, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
::I just encountered this issue (version 31.04) but in a slightly different context. I dug out four rooms underground in sand, did *not* dig out the tiles underneath, built 4 farms on the sand without irigating, and then got the message that that there are "No seeds available for this location", despite having just embarked with many seeds. Maybe I'll try tearing down the farms and irrigating first. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 17:55, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
:::DF2010 requires farms to have mud whether on rock or soil layers. Cheers--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 00:50, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
::::Technically, it’s the bug that requires it (if I’m reading all the information correctly). It seems that DF 2010 is supposed to allow farms on soil regardless of mud. (Am I right, or is this actually intended behaviour?) I had thought that the bug was that you couldn’t build the farms without the mud, but that doesn’t appear to be the case. You can build the farms just fine, but the code doesn’t appear to “see” any valid seeds to plant after they are built.
::::I tore down my farms (successfully built on soil without mud), flooded the area, and then built them again and sure enough the farms now “see” the seeds I have. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 19:54, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
:::::I thought that farms not growing without mud underground was a purposeful change on Toady's part. I suppose I assumed that because of how subterranean trees only grow in muddied soil. Also you don't have to have mud, above ground farms accept all the correct seeds if on soil that issn't irrigated. --[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 22:00, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
::::::Hmmm. I thought that the only reason mud was needed for the underground trees was because they were on rock, not soil. Regardless, after testing it out, here's what I found:
::::::- You can *build* a farm on any soil (above ground or below)
::::::- Only the farm built above ground will "see" any available seeds (assuming no mud)
::::::- You can build an underground farm on soil and muddy the ground *afterward*
::::::- You can build a farm on part muddied ground and part soil and it will be able to "see" available seeds. HOWEVER, your dwarves will only plant on the muddied part of the farm.
::::::- Water both provides mud *and* washes it away. If you build an underground room with a hole in the ceiling and mark that hole with a "pond" zone so your dwarves bring water to it and dump the water in the room, you will see piles of mud appear on some of the tiles and be washed off of others (no idea what determines which of the two happen).
::::::And that was the extent of my testing. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 01:47, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

::::::: Finally got around to trying to build a farm on muddied soil above-ground with a natural wall on the next level down. Testing shows that no seeds can be used on such terrain. So for DF2010 above-ground farms must be built on soil (muddied or unmuddied) and underground farms can grow on any terrain as long as the tiles are muddy. Above-ground farms will not work on muddied rock tiles. I'll go ahead and add this to the actual page.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 21:05, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

::::::: ''You can build a farm on part muddied ground and part soil and it will be able to "see" available seeds. HOWEVER, your dwarves will only plant on the muddied part of the farm.'' - This isn't exactly true. I just found out that if the top left square of the farm doesn't have mud, then NONE of the farm will activate. I muddied my farm plot, but missed two squares in the top left. rebuilt the farm and it didn't work; rebuilt the farm slightly smaller so that the top left corner was muddied and the farm turned on. [[Special:Contributions/71.202.179.67|71.202.179.67]] 19:29, 12 September 2010 (UTC)

== Merge ==
I don't see why we need a separate page for [[Farm Plot]] and [[Farming]]. Merger anyone? [[User:Kenji 03|Kenji 03]] 12:28, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:Also, labors are typically described in their respective skill page. In this case, [[DF2010:Farmer|Farmer]] --[[User:Eagle0600|Eagle0600]] 13:05, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
::Both pages exist as full pages in the 40d namespace, in addition to a farmer page. This suggests that there is sufficient material for all three pages, although someone would need to spend more time reviewing how the topic space was divided in 40d to figure out why. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 13:44, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

::Farming describes the concept, plant uses, importance, possibilities and caveats; Overview. Farm plot goes right down to 'key-pressing' and 'cursor-moving', that is, details and step-to-step. Ultimately it is an article on a building. I don't recall ever using the page Farm plot, but I think we should keep the 2. Looking over the old versions, I think the distinction should be made clearer, though. --[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 14:34, 12 April 2010 (UTC)

:::I agree, but with all the new info and users this approach seems not viable for now. --[[User:Confused|Confused]] 18:56, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farming Chart ==

[[Image:Df-crops-diagram.png|thumb|200px|General farming flowchart.]]
I found this chart to the right in the 40d farming page. I was just wondering if it is still current, so we can put it in the current page.
:As far as I can tell, yeah, it's still accurate. I haven't run into any changes in this part of the game, and I've always found this chart to be exceedingly helpful... Though a little messy. Perhaps we could do up a cleaner version of it for the new page? --Kydo 07:43, 16 October 2010 (UTC)
:: There, how's this? --Kydo 08:28, 17 October 2010 (UTC) [[Image:FarmG2.png|Thumb|200px|Proposed New Version]]
:::There is a similar table in [[DF2010:Crop]]. A table/chart for farming should preferably illustrate the processes of farming and not (re)iterate the specific crops and products. --[[User:Nahno|Nahno]] 12:52, 17 October 2010 (UTC)

::::I didn't even know that page existed! Considering it has a superior version of a chart that was always far more useful han the page it was on, shouldn't it be more readily available? I mean, there's just one off-handed link in the article, and another in the related articles section. --Kydo 15:07, 17 October 2010 (UTC)

::I'd say that the only improvement old farming process flowchart could utilize is grouping plants, drinks and products that have all options identical into blocks and not just color-coding by type and an arrow to uses. It may be harder to do with partially-overlapping groups though.--[[User:Another|Another]] 13:29, 17 October 2010 (UTC)

== Harvesting ==
Probably it ought to be noted that if your dwarves aren't quick enough to harvest a ripe bit of crop, it will wither and become refuse (happens to me when I set "Only Farmers harvest").--[[User:FleshForge|FleshForge]] 09:52, 7 August 2010 (UTC)
: I gather that's less of a problem if you have at least one dedicated farmer per x# of tiles, but I would like to read a recommendation for how many 'x' should be.[[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 17:52, 21 October 2010 (UTC)

== Indication of buggy behaviour ==

It's been reverted multiple times whenever someone adds the "due to a bug" statement, so I'll state my reason on why this should be made clear: new players. If someone new plays DF, they may think the irrigation process is too complex if they do it first thing. Like many of our first fortresses, farming is supposed to be a long term goal (fortress 1: farm plot built; fortress 2: plump helmet planted; fortress 3: sustainable farming; fortress 4: irrigation done) and forcing it onto them isn't a good idea, considering that it is a bug, and Toady has stated he'll look at it eventually. If nobody comes up with a good reason '''not''' to add this information, I'll re-add it. --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 19:56, 18 August 2010 (UTC)
:Since nobody commented, I'll re-add the bug notice. --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 20:52, 24 August 2010 (UTC)

== Problem with farm plot sending jobs ==

I made a 22 tile farm plot on muddied sand, a single tile in the corner was not muddied. It still let me build the plot, but until I resized the plot to make it not include that tile, my farm plot would not send jobs out.-[[User:Wafl|Wafl]] 21:53, 10 October 2010 (UTC)

== maximum stack size ==

What is the max size of a crop stack? Does high enough growing skill make potash irrelevant? [[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 17:45, 21 October 2010 (UTC)
:Not sure about 0.31, but back in 40d the maximum crop stack size was 6 (with a lot of luck and a highly skilled farmer), and according to Toady you could boost that all the way to 11 using potash. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 19:44, 21 October 2010 (UTC)
:: 11? That's ridiculous. That's not even funny.

== Harvest Apathy ==

Has anyone encountered a bug wherein your planters go on seeding farm plots, but no one is willing to harvest anything? No one will touch the withered plants either (unless they're designated for dumping).

I switched between harvest options during different seasons, left plots fallow, rotated crops and so on to no effect.

Halp?

: You probably accidentally turned on "Dwarves Ignore Food." o-f to re-enable. [[User:Niveras|Niveras]] 02:48, 22 October 2010 (UTC)

::I've done that before in the past, so that was the first thing I checked. They've still got "Dwarves Gather Food". However, a third save/quit just fixed the problem. The only messages in my errorlog.txt are pathing-related. I don't know what the deal was. I'm going to try to reproduce the problem now.

:: I just saw that happen for three seasons in a row after a big Depot run, and noticed that everyone with Farming enabled would put planting ahead in priority when crops were still in the field. I turned some of them off and confined them all to burrow, and they finally caught during the next caravan. [[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 13:23, 22 October 2010 (UTC)

== Attributes ==

Are there any attributes that affect farming? Where in the raws would you check to find out?--[[User:Mrdudeguy|Mrdudeguy]] 00:12, 26 October 2010 (UTC)

== Not all squares being used ==

[[Farming|Farm plots in action]]
*Depending on the number of growers and their experience and the rate at which the plant grows, not all squares of large plots may be used

There is no explanation of why this happens, or how to avoid it. I still have this problem to this day. Do one of the farming skills affect how many tiles of land a dwarf can maintain? Or is this caused by tiles not being muddied? I have over 200 plump helmet spawn, but only 4-5 tiles of my 6x6 grid of farm is being planted in. I am unsure why, inspecting the tiles describes they are all muddied or have a dusting of mud, and they are all the same material (sandy loam).

One way I avoid this is by farming in caverns. I've actually started to use caverns alone because of this suspected bug. Someone please shed some light on this issue, hopefully it's something simple. I know I am not alone, my friend asked me the same question and I was unable to answer him.

v0.31 Talk:Farming

2010-12-07T05:14:42Z

RadGH: /* Not all squares being used */

== General ==

Placing a farm on rock
Needs Soil or mud
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on surface soil
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on mud found in an underground complex
<<No Error Message>>

So This is either a major bug, or a mechanics change and a minor text inconsistency.[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 22:35, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:This is a bug. You're supposed to be able to farm on soil. I'll try to track down the forum thread, one moment --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:37, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:Aha, so saith the Baughn: http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336
:--[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:41, 1 April 2010 (UTC)
::Who is but a lowly dabbling SDL coder and has not insight into the game code or Toady's intentions.--[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 15:31, 23 May 2010 (UTC)
:::Toady confirmed it too, you realize. Twice.--[[Special:Contributions/174.113.156.80|174.113.156.80]] 01:33, 29 July 2010 (UTC)
::::Quote from: Dr. A - "Farm plots built underground (Inside/Dark/Subterranean) on natural soil will not allow planting"
::::Reply from: Toady One - "I'm not sure yet. I never get a chance to look at it, despite wanting to look at it. The original idea was to require a soil wall beneath a mudless square for it to be farmable, and if it isn't that way, it's a bug. Either way, it is somewhat confusing, because you wouldn't be able to farm in one layer of soil. I'm not sure you should be able to, morally speaking, especially with the underground trees, but it's probably less confusing that way." from http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=62202.msg1424098#msg1424098
::::I shall give this some testing over the next few days to see if a farm on top of a soil wall will allow planting of underground crops without being muddied first.--[[User:Malibu Stacey|Malibu Stacey]] 21:32, 25 August 2010 (UTC)

== Seeds can not be grown on non-soil, non-subterranean tiles ==

I recently attempted to follow the advice in the article, channeling out several tiles near a river, irrigating them, and building a farm plot on the muddied tiles. However, when I tried to set the field to be planted, all seeds (surface AND subterranean) are disabled, and the message "No seeds available for this location" is displayed. The soil layer, as it turns out, was only one tile thick, and even though the tiles are "above ground" (not even indoors yet, I haven't built a roof over them), they are ineligible for any seeds to be planted on... subterranean crops because the tiles are above ground, and surface crops because the floors are mud-covered diorite instead of one of the clay/sand/soil types.

So, be warned... attempting to create an indoor, irrigated surface crop farm will not work if you accidentally channel down to stone. Surface crops will not grow in mud-covered rock, only in soil (mud-covered or otherwise). --[[User:Tatterdemalian|Tatterdemalian]] 22:09, 22 May 2010 (UTC)
:Have same problem... did you dig out the level below your "aboveground" farm? I did (z1 and z2 dug out) and I remember towercaps and the lot can't grow unless they have a floor tiles and wall below (z1 dug out but not z2), perhaps crops follow the same rules? I'll test this.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 05:54, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
::I just encountered this issue (version 31.04) but in a slightly different context. I dug out four rooms underground in sand, did *not* dig out the tiles underneath, built 4 farms on the sand without irigating, and then got the message that that there are "No seeds available for this location", despite having just embarked with many seeds. Maybe I'll try tearing down the farms and irrigating first. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 17:55, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
:::DF2010 requires farms to have mud whether on rock or soil layers. Cheers--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 00:50, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
::::Technically, it’s the bug that requires it (if I’m reading all the information correctly). It seems that DF 2010 is supposed to allow farms on soil regardless of mud. (Am I right, or is this actually intended behaviour?) I had thought that the bug was that you couldn’t build the farms without the mud, but that doesn’t appear to be the case. You can build the farms just fine, but the code doesn’t appear to “see” any valid seeds to plant after they are built.
::::I tore down my farms (successfully built on soil without mud), flooded the area, and then built them again and sure enough the farms now “see” the seeds I have. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 19:54, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
:::::I thought that farms not growing without mud underground was a purposeful change on Toady's part. I suppose I assumed that because of how subterranean trees only grow in muddied soil. Also you don't have to have mud, above ground farms accept all the correct seeds if on soil that issn't irrigated. --[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 22:00, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
::::::Hmmm. I thought that the only reason mud was needed for the underground trees was because they were on rock, not soil. Regardless, after testing it out, here's what I found:
::::::- You can *build* a farm on any soil (above ground or below)
::::::- Only the farm built above ground will "see" any available seeds (assuming no mud)
::::::- You can build an underground farm on soil and muddy the ground *afterward*
::::::- You can build a farm on part muddied ground and part soil and it will be able to "see" available seeds. HOWEVER, your dwarves will only plant on the muddied part of the farm.
::::::- Water both provides mud *and* washes it away. If you build an underground room with a hole in the ceiling and mark that hole with a "pond" zone so your dwarves bring water to it and dump the water in the room, you will see piles of mud appear on some of the tiles and be washed off of others (no idea what determines which of the two happen).
::::::And that was the extent of my testing. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 01:47, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

::::::: Finally got around to trying to build a farm on muddied soil above-ground with a natural wall on the next level down. Testing shows that no seeds can be used on such terrain. So for DF2010 above-ground farms must be built on soil (muddied or unmuddied) and underground farms can grow on any terrain as long as the tiles are muddy. Above-ground farms will not work on muddied rock tiles. I'll go ahead and add this to the actual page.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 21:05, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

::::::: ''You can build a farm on part muddied ground and part soil and it will be able to "see" available seeds. HOWEVER, your dwarves will only plant on the muddied part of the farm.'' - This isn't exactly true. I just found out that if the top left square of the farm doesn't have mud, then NONE of the farm will activate. I muddied my farm plot, but missed two squares in the top left. rebuilt the farm and it didn't work; rebuilt the farm slightly smaller so that the top left corner was muddied and the farm turned on. [[Special:Contributions/71.202.179.67|71.202.179.67]] 19:29, 12 September 2010 (UTC)

== Merge ==
I don't see why we need a separate page for [[Farm Plot]] and [[Farming]]. Merger anyone? [[User:Kenji 03|Kenji 03]] 12:28, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:Also, labors are typically described in their respective skill page. In this case, [[DF2010:Farmer|Farmer]] --[[User:Eagle0600|Eagle0600]] 13:05, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
::Both pages exist as full pages in the 40d namespace, in addition to a farmer page. This suggests that there is sufficient material for all three pages, although someone would need to spend more time reviewing how the topic space was divided in 40d to figure out why. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 13:44, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

::Farming describes the concept, plant uses, importance, possibilities and caveats; Overview. Farm plot goes right down to 'key-pressing' and 'cursor-moving', that is, details and step-to-step. Ultimately it is an article on a building. I don't recall ever using the page Farm plot, but I think we should keep the 2. Looking over the old versions, I think the distinction should be made clearer, though. --[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 14:34, 12 April 2010 (UTC)

:::I agree, but with all the new info and users this approach seems not viable for now. --[[User:Confused|Confused]] 18:56, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farming Chart ==

[[Image:Df-crops-diagram.png|thumb|200px|General farming flowchart.]]
I found this chart to the right in the 40d farming page. I was just wondering if it is still current, so we can put it in the current page.
:As far as I can tell, yeah, it's still accurate. I haven't run into any changes in this part of the game, and I've always found this chart to be exceedingly helpful... Though a little messy. Perhaps we could do up a cleaner version of it for the new page? --Kydo 07:43, 16 October 2010 (UTC)
:: There, how's this? --Kydo 08:28, 17 October 2010 (UTC) [[Image:FarmG2.png|Thumb|200px|Proposed New Version]]
:::There is a similar table in [[DF2010:Crop]]. A table/chart for farming should preferably illustrate the processes of farming and not (re)iterate the specific crops and products. --[[User:Nahno|Nahno]] 12:52, 17 October 2010 (UTC)

::::I didn't even know that page existed! Considering it has a superior version of a chart that was always far more useful han the page it was on, shouldn't it be more readily available? I mean, there's just one off-handed link in the article, and another in the related articles section. --Kydo 15:07, 17 October 2010 (UTC)

::I'd say that the only improvement old farming process flowchart could utilize is grouping plants, drinks and products that have all options identical into blocks and not just color-coding by type and an arrow to uses. It may be harder to do with partially-overlapping groups though.--[[User:Another|Another]] 13:29, 17 October 2010 (UTC)

== Harvesting ==
Probably it ought to be noted that if your dwarves aren't quick enough to harvest a ripe bit of crop, it will wither and become refuse (happens to me when I set "Only Farmers harvest").--[[User:FleshForge|FleshForge]] 09:52, 7 August 2010 (UTC)
: I gather that's less of a problem if you have at least one dedicated farmer per x# of tiles, but I would like to read a recommendation for how many 'x' should be.[[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 17:52, 21 October 2010 (UTC)

== Indication of buggy behaviour ==

It's been reverted multiple times whenever someone adds the "due to a bug" statement, so I'll state my reason on why this should be made clear: new players. If someone new plays DF, they may think the irrigation process is too complex if they do it first thing. Like many of our first fortresses, farming is supposed to be a long term goal (fortress 1: farm plot built; fortress 2: plump helmet planted; fortress 3: sustainable farming; fortress 4: irrigation done) and forcing it onto them isn't a good idea, considering that it is a bug, and Toady has stated he'll look at it eventually. If nobody comes up with a good reason '''not''' to add this information, I'll re-add it. --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 19:56, 18 August 2010 (UTC)
:Since nobody commented, I'll re-add the bug notice. --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 20:52, 24 August 2010 (UTC)

== Problem with farm plot sending jobs ==

I made a 22 tile farm plot on muddied sand, a single tile in the corner was not muddied. It still let me build the plot, but until I resized the plot to make it not include that tile, my farm plot would not send jobs out.-[[User:Wafl|Wafl]] 21:53, 10 October 2010 (UTC)

== maximum stack size ==

What is the max size of a crop stack? Does high enough growing skill make potash irrelevant? [[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 17:45, 21 October 2010 (UTC)
:Not sure about 0.31, but back in 40d the maximum crop stack size was 6 (with a lot of luck and a highly skilled farmer), and according to Toady you could boost that all the way to 11 using potash. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 19:44, 21 October 2010 (UTC)
:: 11? That's ridiculous. That's not even funny.

== Harvest Apathy ==

Has anyone encountered a bug wherein your planters go on seeding farm plots, but no one is willing to harvest anything? No one will touch the withered plants either (unless they're designated for dumping).

I switched between harvest options during different seasons, left plots fallow, rotated crops and so on to no effect.

Halp?

: You probably accidentally turned on "Dwarves Ignore Food." o-f to re-enable. [[User:Niveras|Niveras]] 02:48, 22 October 2010 (UTC)

::I've done that before in the past, so that was the first thing I checked. They've still got "Dwarves Gather Food". However, a third save/quit just fixed the problem. The only messages in my errorlog.txt are pathing-related. I don't know what the deal was. I'm going to try to reproduce the problem now.

:: I just saw that happen for three seasons in a row after a big Depot run, and noticed that everyone with Farming enabled would put planting ahead in priority when crops were still in the field. I turned some of them off and confined them all to burrow, and they finally caught during the next caravan. [[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 13:23, 22 October 2010 (UTC)

== Attributes ==

Are there any attributes that affect farming? Where in the raws would you check to find out?--[[User:Mrdudeguy|Mrdudeguy]] 00:12, 26 October 2010 (UTC)

== Not all squares being used ==

[[Farming|Farm plots in action]]
<blockquote>
Depending on the number of growers and their experience and the rate at which the plant grows, not all squares of large plots may be used
</blockquote>

There is no explanation of why this happens, or how to avoid it. I still have this problem to this day. Do one of the farming skills affect how many tiles of land a dwarf can maintain? Or is this caused by tiles not being muddied? I have over 200 plump helmet spawn, but only 4-5 tiles of my 6x6 grid of farm is being planted in. I am unsure why, inspecting the tiles describes they are all muddied or have a dusting of mud, and they are all the same material (sandy loam).

One way I avoid this is by farming in caverns. I've actually started to use caverns alone because of this suspected bug. Someone please shed some light on this issue, hopefully it's something simple. I know I am not alone, my friend asked me the same question and I was unable to answer him.

v0.31 Talk:Farming

2010-12-07T05:14:31Z

RadGH: /* Not all squares being used */ new section

== General ==

Placing a farm on rock
Needs Soil or mud
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on surface soil
No Mud for underground farm
Mud is left by water

Placing a farm on mud found in an underground complex
<<No Error Message>>

So This is either a major bug, or a mechanics change and a minor text inconsistency.[[User:Doctorzuber|Doctorzuber]] 22:35, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:This is a bug. You're supposed to be able to farm on soil. I'll try to track down the forum thread, one moment --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:37, 1 April 2010 (UTC)

:Aha, so saith the Baughn: http://www.bay12games.com/forum/index.php?topic=51951.msg1123336#msg1123336
:--[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 22:41, 1 April 2010 (UTC)
::Who is but a lowly dabbling SDL coder and has not insight into the game code or Toady's intentions.--[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 15:31, 23 May 2010 (UTC)
:::Toady confirmed it too, you realize. Twice.--[[Special:Contributions/174.113.156.80|174.113.156.80]] 01:33, 29 July 2010 (UTC)
::::Quote from: Dr. A - "Farm plots built underground (Inside/Dark/Subterranean) on natural soil will not allow planting"
::::Reply from: Toady One - "I'm not sure yet. I never get a chance to look at it, despite wanting to look at it. The original idea was to require a soil wall beneath a mudless square for it to be farmable, and if it isn't that way, it's a bug. Either way, it is somewhat confusing, because you wouldn't be able to farm in one layer of soil. I'm not sure you should be able to, morally speaking, especially with the underground trees, but it's probably less confusing that way." from http://www.bay12forums.com/smf/index.php?topic=62202.msg1424098#msg1424098
::::I shall give this some testing over the next few days to see if a farm on top of a soil wall will allow planting of underground crops without being muddied first.--[[User:Malibu Stacey|Malibu Stacey]] 21:32, 25 August 2010 (UTC)

== Seeds can not be grown on non-soil, non-subterranean tiles ==

I recently attempted to follow the advice in the article, channeling out several tiles near a river, irrigating them, and building a farm plot on the muddied tiles. However, when I tried to set the field to be planted, all seeds (surface AND subterranean) are disabled, and the message "No seeds available for this location" is displayed. The soil layer, as it turns out, was only one tile thick, and even though the tiles are "above ground" (not even indoors yet, I haven't built a roof over them), they are ineligible for any seeds to be planted on... subterranean crops because the tiles are above ground, and surface crops because the floors are mud-covered diorite instead of one of the clay/sand/soil types.

So, be warned... attempting to create an indoor, irrigated surface crop farm will not work if you accidentally channel down to stone. Surface crops will not grow in mud-covered rock, only in soil (mud-covered or otherwise). --[[User:Tatterdemalian|Tatterdemalian]] 22:09, 22 May 2010 (UTC)
:Have same problem... did you dig out the level below your "aboveground" farm? I did (z1 and z2 dug out) and I remember towercaps and the lot can't grow unless they have a floor tiles and wall below (z1 dug out but not z2), perhaps crops follow the same rules? I'll test this.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 05:54, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
::I just encountered this issue (version 31.04) but in a slightly different context. I dug out four rooms underground in sand, did *not* dig out the tiles underneath, built 4 farms on the sand without irigating, and then got the message that that there are "No seeds available for this location", despite having just embarked with many seeds. Maybe I'll try tearing down the farms and irrigating first. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 17:55, 15 June 2010 (UTC)
:::DF2010 requires farms to have mud whether on rock or soil layers. Cheers--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 00:50, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
::::Technically, it’s the bug that requires it (if I’m reading all the information correctly). It seems that DF 2010 is supposed to allow farms on soil regardless of mud. (Am I right, or is this actually intended behaviour?) I had thought that the bug was that you couldn’t build the farms without the mud, but that doesn’t appear to be the case. You can build the farms just fine, but the code doesn’t appear to “see” any valid seeds to plant after they are built.
::::I tore down my farms (successfully built on soil without mud), flooded the area, and then built them again and sure enough the farms now “see” the seeds I have. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 19:54, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
:::::I thought that farms not growing without mud underground was a purposeful change on Toady's part. I suppose I assumed that because of how subterranean trees only grow in muddied soil. Also you don't have to have mud, above ground farms accept all the correct seeds if on soil that issn't irrigated. --[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 22:00, 16 June 2010 (UTC)
::::::Hmmm. I thought that the only reason mud was needed for the underground trees was because they were on rock, not soil. Regardless, after testing it out, here's what I found:
::::::- You can *build* a farm on any soil (above ground or below)
::::::- Only the farm built above ground will "see" any available seeds (assuming no mud)
::::::- You can build an underground farm on soil and muddy the ground *afterward*
::::::- You can build a farm on part muddied ground and part soil and it will be able to "see" available seeds. HOWEVER, your dwarves will only plant on the muddied part of the farm.
::::::- Water both provides mud *and* washes it away. If you build an underground room with a hole in the ceiling and mark that hole with a "pond" zone so your dwarves bring water to it and dump the water in the room, you will see piles of mud appear on some of the tiles and be washed off of others (no idea what determines which of the two happen).
::::::And that was the extent of my testing. --[[User:Frewfrux|Frewfrux]] 01:47, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

::::::: Finally got around to trying to build a farm on muddied soil above-ground with a natural wall on the next level down. Testing shows that no seeds can be used on such terrain. So for DF2010 above-ground farms must be built on soil (muddied or unmuddied) and underground farms can grow on any terrain as long as the tiles are muddy. Above-ground farms will not work on muddied rock tiles. I'll go ahead and add this to the actual page.--[[Special:Contributions/99.67.238.66|99.67.238.66]] 21:05, 17 June 2010 (UTC)

::::::: ''You can build a farm on part muddied ground and part soil and it will be able to "see" available seeds. HOWEVER, your dwarves will only plant on the muddied part of the farm.'' - This isn't exactly true. I just found out that if the top left square of the farm doesn't have mud, then NONE of the farm will activate. I muddied my farm plot, but missed two squares in the top left. rebuilt the farm and it didn't work; rebuilt the farm slightly smaller so that the top left corner was muddied and the farm turned on. [[Special:Contributions/71.202.179.67|71.202.179.67]] 19:29, 12 September 2010 (UTC)

== Merge ==
I don't see why we need a separate page for [[Farm Plot]] and [[Farming]]. Merger anyone? [[User:Kenji 03|Kenji 03]] 12:28, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
:Also, labors are typically described in their respective skill page. In this case, [[DF2010:Farmer|Farmer]] --[[User:Eagle0600|Eagle0600]] 13:05, 6 April 2010 (UTC)
::Both pages exist as full pages in the 40d namespace, in addition to a farmer page. This suggests that there is sufficient material for all three pages, although someone would need to spend more time reviewing how the topic space was divided in 40d to figure out why. --[[User:Squirrelloid|Squirrelloid]] 13:44, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

::Farming describes the concept, plant uses, importance, possibilities and caveats; Overview. Farm plot goes right down to 'key-pressing' and 'cursor-moving', that is, details and step-to-step. Ultimately it is an article on a building. I don't recall ever using the page Farm plot, but I think we should keep the 2. Looking over the old versions, I think the distinction should be made clearer, though. --[[User:Birthright|Birthright]] 14:34, 12 April 2010 (UTC)

:::I agree, but with all the new info and users this approach seems not viable for now. --[[User:Confused|Confused]] 18:56, 13 April 2010 (UTC)

== Farming Chart ==

[[Image:Df-crops-diagram.png|thumb|200px|General farming flowchart.]]
I found this chart to the right in the 40d farming page. I was just wondering if it is still current, so we can put it in the current page.
:As far as I can tell, yeah, it's still accurate. I haven't run into any changes in this part of the game, and I've always found this chart to be exceedingly helpful... Though a little messy. Perhaps we could do up a cleaner version of it for the new page? --Kydo 07:43, 16 October 2010 (UTC)
:: There, how's this? --Kydo 08:28, 17 October 2010 (UTC) [[Image:FarmG2.png|Thumb|200px|Proposed New Version]]
:::There is a similar table in [[DF2010:Crop]]. A table/chart for farming should preferably illustrate the processes of farming and not (re)iterate the specific crops and products. --[[User:Nahno|Nahno]] 12:52, 17 October 2010 (UTC)

::::I didn't even know that page existed! Considering it has a superior version of a chart that was always far more useful han the page it was on, shouldn't it be more readily available? I mean, there's just one off-handed link in the article, and another in the related articles section. --Kydo 15:07, 17 October 2010 (UTC)

::I'd say that the only improvement old farming process flowchart could utilize is grouping plants, drinks and products that have all options identical into blocks and not just color-coding by type and an arrow to uses. It may be harder to do with partially-overlapping groups though.--[[User:Another|Another]] 13:29, 17 October 2010 (UTC)

== Harvesting ==
Probably it ought to be noted that if your dwarves aren't quick enough to harvest a ripe bit of crop, it will wither and become refuse (happens to me when I set "Only Farmers harvest").--[[User:FleshForge|FleshForge]] 09:52, 7 August 2010 (UTC)
: I gather that's less of a problem if you have at least one dedicated farmer per x# of tiles, but I would like to read a recommendation for how many 'x' should be.[[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 17:52, 21 October 2010 (UTC)

== Indication of buggy behaviour ==

It's been reverted multiple times whenever someone adds the "due to a bug" statement, so I'll state my reason on why this should be made clear: new players. If someone new plays DF, they may think the irrigation process is too complex if they do it first thing. Like many of our first fortresses, farming is supposed to be a long term goal (fortress 1: farm plot built; fortress 2: plump helmet planted; fortress 3: sustainable farming; fortress 4: irrigation done) and forcing it onto them isn't a good idea, considering that it is a bug, and Toady has stated he'll look at it eventually. If nobody comes up with a good reason '''not''' to add this information, I'll re-add it. --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 19:56, 18 August 2010 (UTC)
:Since nobody commented, I'll re-add the bug notice. --[[User:Dree12|Dree12]] 20:52, 24 August 2010 (UTC)

== Problem with farm plot sending jobs ==

I made a 22 tile farm plot on muddied sand, a single tile in the corner was not muddied. It still let me build the plot, but until I resized the plot to make it not include that tile, my farm plot would not send jobs out.-[[User:Wafl|Wafl]] 21:53, 10 October 2010 (UTC)

== maximum stack size ==

What is the max size of a crop stack? Does high enough growing skill make potash irrelevant? [[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 17:45, 21 October 2010 (UTC)
:Not sure about 0.31, but back in 40d the maximum crop stack size was 6 (with a lot of luck and a highly skilled farmer), and according to Toady you could boost that all the way to 11 using potash. --[[User:Quietust|Quietust]] 19:44, 21 October 2010 (UTC)
:: 11? That's ridiculous. That's not even funny.

== Harvest Apathy ==

Has anyone encountered a bug wherein your planters go on seeding farm plots, but no one is willing to harvest anything? No one will touch the withered plants either (unless they're designated for dumping).

I switched between harvest options during different seasons, left plots fallow, rotated crops and so on to no effect.

Halp?

: You probably accidentally turned on "Dwarves Ignore Food." o-f to re-enable. [[User:Niveras|Niveras]] 02:48, 22 October 2010 (UTC)

::I've done that before in the past, so that was the first thing I checked. They've still got "Dwarves Gather Food". However, a third save/quit just fixed the problem. The only messages in my errorlog.txt are pathing-related. I don't know what the deal was. I'm going to try to reproduce the problem now.

:: I just saw that happen for three seasons in a row after a big Depot run, and noticed that everyone with Farming enabled would put planting ahead in priority when crops were still in the field. I turned some of them off and confined them all to burrow, and they finally caught during the next caravan. [[User:Uzu Bash|Uzu Bash]] 13:23, 22 October 2010 (UTC)

== Attributes ==

Are there any attributes that affect farming? Where in the raws would you check to find out?--[[User:Mrdudeguy|Mrdudeguy]] 00:12, 26 October 2010 (UTC)

== Not all squares being used ==

{{Farming|Farm plots in action}}
<blockquote>
Depending on the number of growers and their experience and the rate at which the plant grows, not all squares of large plots may be used
</blockquote>

There is no explanation of why this happens, or how to avoid it. I still have this problem to this day. Do one of the farming skills affect how many tiles of land a dwarf can maintain? Or is this caused by tiles not being muddied? I have over 200 plump helmet spawn, but only 4-5 tiles of my 6x6 grid of farm is being planted in. I am unsure why, inspecting the tiles describes they are all muddied or have a dusting of mud, and they are all the same material (sandy loam).

One way I avoid this is by farming in caverns. I've actually started to use caverns alone because of this suspected bug. Someone please shed some light on this issue, hopefully it's something simple. I know I am not alone, my friend asked me the same question and I was unable to answer him.

v0.31:Farming

2010-12-07T05:08:50Z

RadGH: /* Farm plots in action */

{{quality|Exceptional|08:00, 22 May 2010 (UTC)}}{{AV}}
[[Image:Df-crops-diagram.png|thumb|200px|General farming flowchart.]]

'''Farming''' is the action of growing {{l|crops}} for {{l|food}}, {{l|alcohol}} production and {{l|cloth}} manufacturing. While small forts can easily be sustained by plant gathering, {{l|hunting}} and trading, farming is vital to large settlements.

Farming is done at a '''farm plot''' building ({{k|b}}-{{k|p}}, resize with {{k|u}}{{k|m}}{{k|k}}{{k|h}}). It requires {{l|seeds}} and a worker with the "Farming (Fields)" {{l|labor}} enabled.

Depending on where the farm plot is constructed, different crops may be planted. Farm plots built {{l|above ground}} are not suitable for the crops grown on {{L|subterranean}} farm plots and vice versa. Note that the attributes {{DFtext|Inside |6:0:0}}, {{DFtext|Dark |0:0:1}}, {{DFtext|Outside|3:0:1}} and {{DFtext|Light|6:0:1}} are of no relevance.

See the article on {{L|crop}}s for details on the conditions needed to grow the available plants.

== Introduction to Farming ==

After building a farm plot building ({{k|b}}-{{k|p}}, resize with {{k|u}}{{k|m}}{{k|k}}{{k|h}}), you must select which crops to plant there.

Press {{k|q}} and move the cursor over the farm, you will see a list of crops you can select to grow in the current season. To move to plan for crops to be farmed in different seasons use {{k|a}},{{k|b}},{{k|c}}, or {{k|d}}. You can select a farm to be fertilized but starting out you won't have the necessary items to do so, and it's largely unnecessary.

You must have the appropriate {{L|seed}}s to plant a crop there. To easily see how many of each seeds you have you can go to the Kitchen menu {{k|z}} {{k|right}} {{k|Enter}}. {{L|Plump helmet}}s are a good beginning crop for a first cave farm, and {{L|wild strawberries}} are a good choice for outdoor fields. Check the {{L|crop}}s page for details on different seeds. Only some plants are edible so make sure the seeds you're using will produce food. It's often a good idea to pick a seed which produces a plant which can be {{L|brew}}ed. This will create {{L|alcohol}} and also give you a seed to plant again next season.

Instructing a plot to remain fallow{{k|z}} during a particular season will instruct dwarves not to plant in that plot during that season.

To fertilize a farm plot, one needs {{L|potash}}, which is produced by processing {{L|ash}}. It greatly increases the yield of a plot (approx. multiplied by four). However fertilization only lasts for one season, and requires up to 1/4 * plot_size +1 of {{L|potash}} for saturation. Therefore fully fertilizing a farm would require burning a large amount of trees each season.

=== Subterranean Farming ===

To grow the six "dwarven" plants, including the {{l|plump helmet}}, you will need an underground farm plot. The seeds and spawn available to your dwarves at embark will only grow underground.

Underground farm plots must be placed on mud. Toady One has stated that underground farming should also be possible on soil floors under which exist natural soil walls, but this bug has not yet been fixed{{version|0.31.17}}.

Muddying the ground requires temporarily covering it with water: common methods include a bucket brigade or '''controlled''' flooding by temporarily diverting a river or pool, using a floodgate or door to stop the flow. (see: [[Irrigation]]) You may also find a muddied area in a {{L|cavern}}, but note that each tile underneath the farm plot must be muddied. Most caverns have entire open areas which will be permanently covered in mud, but if you dig into the walls of a cavern or chisel away a pillar, the freshly cut floor area will not be muddied until you get it wet. Underground {{L|cavern}}s are dirty, and frequently contain {{L|Mud|piles of mud}} that are perfect for quickly setting up farms. However, given the wide variety of creatures found in caverns, you may want to take precautions. Consider keeping a {{L|squad}} close at hand to guard the farm, or walling off a muddied area for your dwarves' exclusive use.

Underground farming is not restricted to soil layers and caverns: underground floor of any material -- rough stone, smoothed stone, ore, gem -- can support subterranean farm plots once there is a layer of mud covering it. See {{L|irrigation}} for tips on getting the right amount of water to the farm plots.

=== Above Ground Farming ===
Above ground farming is basically the same as underground farming, with the simplifying distinction that above ground plots typically do not require preparations. However, there are some complications.

The first complication is that seeds cannot be chosen at embark. They can be bought from caravans ({{L|elves|elven}} or {{L|humans|human}}); or above-ground plants can be gathered using the {{L|Plant gathering}} designation, and then {{L|brewer|brewed}}, {{L|mill|milled}}, {{L|thresher|threshed}} or {{L|dining hall|eaten}} directly (depending on the plant) to produce seeds.

The second complication is that the farming must be done on {{L|soil}}. Typically, it is done above ground, which is dangerous (due to aggressive animals, ambushes and sieges). However, any land which has ever been exposed to sunlight becomes permanently marked as "above ground". So, if you have multiple Z-layers of soil, you can channel some above-ground land, remove the resulting ramps, then construct a floor above, where the surface once was. The (now dark and protected) lower soil will still be suitable for farming {{L|wild strawberry|wild strawberries}}, {{L|longland grass}}, {{L|rope reed}}, and anything else you may find.

Above ground farms built on rock layers (muddied or otherwise) will show the message "No seeds available for this location", and you ''will not'' be able to plant anything in them. (possibly fixed as of 0.31.17?)

Some crops require a particular temperature range to grow; so although it may be possible to plant them in any season, to obtain optimal usage of farm plots it may be necessary to coordinate planting with seasonal temperature variations.

== Farm plots in action ==

Once a farm plot has been built and crops have been selected for the current season, dwarves with the {{l|growing}} labor enabled will begin planting the selected seed. The higher a Dwarf's grower skill in planting, the more plants will be harvested from each seed planted. The farming labor is fairly low in priority, so if you want a full time farmer, it is best to disable all other labors.

Plants take time to grow, depending on their type. Once a plant is fully grown, a dwarf will harvest it. By default, any dwarf will do this. Harvesting plants is not affected by any skill, although it provides a small amount of grower experience. Plants that remain in the field for too long will wither. These plants will eventually rot away.

Depending on the number of growers and their experience and the rate at which the plant grows, not all squares of large plots may be used. {{verify}}

== Management ==

Create a custom {{L|stockpile}} near your {{L|farm}} which will only accept {{L|seed}}s. This will consolidate your seeds into one place, instead of having them littered all through the {{L|dining room}}. As a large number of seeds can be stored in a single barrel, this stockpile can be only three or four tiles. Alternately, you can make a more traditional sized custom stockpile, which only accepts seeds and bars of {{L|potash}} for fertilizing.

You can also create a custom stockpile that will only accept {{L|plant}}s, to avoid having it all mixed up with your {{L|meat}} and {{L|drink}}s. It would be a good idea to have this stockpile near your {{L|still}}, {{L|farmer's workshop}}, {{L|kitchen}}, etc.

Use the {{L|stocks}} menu, and go to the Kitchen tab. From here you can see how many of each kind of food you have. If you're running out of a certain kind of seed, toggle the corresponding plant "Cook" setting to red. {{L|Cooking}} plants doesn't leave a seed. If you have too many of a certain kind of seed, toggle the seed "Cook" setting to blue. Just make sure you check on the stocks (or just forbid one seed and leave it for emergency) and toggle it back before you run out!

{{Farming FAQ}}

== See also ==
* {{L|Irrigation}}
* {{L|Tile attributes}}
* {{L|Crops}}

{{Category|Buildings}}

v0.31:Adventure mode quick reference

2010-12-06T22:13:39Z

RadGH: /* Key Bindings */

{{quality|Fine|02:12, 28 November 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
These are the keys used in {{L|Adventure mode}}.
==Key Bindings==
{| class="wikitable" style="border:1px solid #ccc;"
|-
! align="center" | Keys
! align="center" | Meaning
|-
| {{k|8}} {{k|2}} {{k|4}} {{k|6}} {{k|7}} {{k|9}} {{k|1}} {{k|3}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|↑}} {{k|↓}} {{k|←}} {{k|→}}
| Move
|-
| {{k|Alt}} and a direction key
| Move carefully / Deliberately enter dangerous terrain
|-
| {{k|<}} or {{k|Shift}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Ascend
|-
| {{k|>}} or {{k|Ctrl}}+{{key|5}} (num lock off)
| Descend
|-
| {{k|.}}
| Wait for a step
|-
| {{k|Space}}
| Advance/Clear Messages
|-
| {{k|a}}
| View Announcements
|-
| {{k|c}}
| View companion interface
|-
| {{k|d}}
| Drop an item
|-
| {{k|e}}
| Eat or drink something
|-
| {{k|g}}
| Pickup an item
|-
| {{k|f}}
| Fire a projectile
|-
| {{k|i}}
| Inventory
|-
| {{k|l}}
| Look around
|-
| {{k|k}}
| Talk to somebody
|-
| {{k|p}}
| Put an item into a container
|-
| {{k|r}}
| Remove an item you are wearing or from a container
|-
| {{k|s}}
| Stand or lie down (moving while laying down (crawling) will let you move past NPCs which are standing in your way)
|-
| {{k|t}}
| Throw an item
|-
| {{k|u}}
| Interact with building, furniture, or mechanism
|-
| {{k|w}}
| Wear an item
|-
| {{k|x}}
| Perform action (butcher, create item...)
|-
| {{k|z}}
| Status
|-
| {{k|A}}
| Attack an adjacent creature. Change Mode to {{L|wrestle}}.
|-
| {{k|C}}
| Open combat preferences interface
|-
| {{k|D}}
| Date/Time
|-
| {{k|I}}
| Interact with an object in an advanced way. (unstick a weapon, refill waterskin etc)
|-
| {{k|L}}
| Search the nearby area very carefully
|-
| {{k|P}}
| Temperature
|-
| {{k|Q}}
| Adventure log (tasks, map, et cetera...)
|-
| {{k|S}}
| Sneak
|-
| {{k|T}}
| Travel
|-
| {{k|W}}
| Weather
|-
| {{k|Z}}
| Sleep
|}

If you want to get a specific item (eg. wield weapon or knapping tool) from your backpack to your right hand: first drop current item from right hand, drop wanted item from backpack, pick up wanted item. Optionally pick up first dropped item.

Alternativelly, use (r)emove.

{{Category|Guides}}
{{Category|Adventurer mode}}

v0.31:Embark

2010-12-03T09:23:18Z

RadGH: /* Skill Sets */

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional}}

'''Embark''' is the moment at the very beginning of the game, before actual game play begins (but after {{L|World generation|generating a world}}), when you and your initial 7 dwarves:
# Choose a site.
# Assign starting {{L|skill|skills}} to each dwarf.
# Select an initial load of {{L|supplies|supplies and equipment}}.
# Arrive at the site with your wagon full of supplies.

= Choosing a Site =
The process of choosing a site in DF2010 is much less involved than prior versions due to the ubiquitous presence of magma, gems, and ore, but that said there are still several considerations to keep in mind, namely aquifers, ore types, wood, climate, and neighbors.
There is just ONE BIG RULE: when your home civ is too small, you will first recognize after the 2nd winter that you won't get more immigrants, which can be [[Fun|extremely fun]]. Your home civilization will need more than one dwarven place on the map.

[[File:Embark.jpg]] 
The Choose Fortress Location screen shows four separate sections, with three of them being three views of the land at three different levels of magnification: Local, Region, and World. A section of highlighted tiles in the Local view indicates the current embark location within the region. The local view constitutes a 16x16 grid of embark area tiles (each representing 48x48 tiles when you are playing the game) that is within a single region tile. The world map cannot be directly controlled, and exists only to give you the overall view of where, relative to the rest of the features of the world, the region map is focused on.

The arrow keys control the X cursor in the center "Region" view while {{K|u}}, {{K|m}}, {{K|k}}, and {{K|h}} move the embark location around within the Local view. {{K|Shift}}-{{K|u}}, {{K|m}}, {{K|k}}, and {{K|h}} will resize the embark location.

The size of the embark location directly affects how much data about a map the game will have to store in your computer's memory, the size of your save files, and correspondingly, will dramatically affect the save and load times for your map, potentially make pathfinding more resource-intensive, and may generally slow your game down. As such, smaller maps are recommended, especially for less powerful computers. Remember that each tile on your embark screen is 48x48 tiles large.

On the far right of the screen is a list of local features in the dominant biome. Individual biomes, which form at least one map-tile of your embark location, can be cycled with the {{Key|F#}}-keys; for example, an area with 3 biomes present can be cycled using {{Key|F1}}, {{Key|F2}} and {{Key|F3}}. The selected biome will be highlighted with flashing Xs on the Local Map, and the biome's information will be displayed on the right side of the screen. The list at the bottom of the biome information indicates the dominant soil/stone composition from top to bottom for the first eight layers.

== Biomes ==
Main article: {{L|Biome|biome}}

A '''biome''' is a biotic area with homogeneous features, characterized by distinctive {{L|plant|plants}}, {{L|creatures|animal species}} and {{L|climate|climate}}.

In the above image, the biome is "Temperate Broadleaf Forest", and the region the biome is part of is given a specific name: "The Oily Forest".

Biomes will also contain only one set of stone layers, though these usually expand beyond a single biome. Your {{L|dwarves|dwarves}} will find different resources depending on which biomes they select when starting a fort.

Biomes are important when choosing a fortress location in order to understand your {{L|surroundings|surroundings}}.

=== Climate ===
Main article: {{L|climate|climate}}

Climate determines the maximum temperature range of the region, which in turn impacts the severity of exposure to the outside, whether water will freeze in winter, and how quickly water evaporates.

The climate is displayed as "Temperature: Hot" in the above image.

Very hot and very cold biomes bring their own challenges which may be further compounded with overlapping features, such as a glacier being frozen for half the year, and being devoid of trees, and lacking a river. Very hot climates may see all its surface water quickly evaporate, making finding a water supply more dangerous, as underground caves filled with hostile creatures may be the only supply of water.

=== Plant Life ===
Main article: {{L|Tree|trees}} and {{L|Shrub|shrubs}}

Seen in the above image as "Trees: Heavily Forested" and "Other Vegetation: Thick".

Trees are useful for the {{L|wood}} they provide, and wood is a basic building material, important for being the only material that beds can be made of, and, as metal bins and barrels require three times as much of less common metal resources as wood bins and barrels do, they are preferred materials for that, as well. Wood is also a renewable source for {{L|charcoal}}, the {{L|fuel}} used in forges to make metal products in smelters or forges that are not magma-powered, and is needed to make steel even when you have magma forges. Wood is finally also useful in making {{L|potash}} for soap or fertilizing farms.

In spite of wood's many uses, it is entirely possible to play in this version without any trees in your biomes, as trees can be farmed in muddied underground areas regardless of how barren the surface is. Due to the inexpensive nature of wood, it is possible to simply embark with enough wood to last until you are ready to set up tree farming operations underground. Wood is also a common good that elves, humans, and dwarves alike will sell to you.

Shrubs can provide some quick food through the {{L|herbalism}} skill, {{L|still|brewable materials}}, and {{L|seeds}} for some very helpful above-ground {{L|Crops|crops}} which are generally only available through trading with Elves.

=== Surroundings ===
Main article: {{L|surroundings}}

Surroundings affect how powerful and hostile local wildlife will be, and some forms of plants are available only in specific types of surroundings.

The surroundings of the example image are listed as, "Surroundings: Calm".

Any biome can have any set of surroundings; for example a glacier could be haunted, wilderness or mirthful. However, a named region (which is a contiguous area of one category of biomes, such as forests or wetlands) will be either good, neutral, or evil.

There are two axis for surroundings: Savagery and alignment. Calm and neutral savagery are functionally identical. Savage lands are like normal lands, except they will frequently have giant or hostile humanoid versions of normal animals, for example you might have a {{L|Tigerman}} instead of "merely" a {{L|tiger}} in a savage jungle.

Good biomes are similar to neutral biomes, except have more fanciful (and generally benign) creatures like {{L|pixie}}s, {{L|fluffy wambler}}s, or {{L|unicorn}}s, and are generally no more dangerous than neutral biomes. Evil biomes are home to many dangerous creatures, often dead vegetation and even including undead versions of normal creatures, making for a far more hostile environment specifically for players who want to face a greater challenge to stay alive, especially early on. Trees might not grow in an evil area.

It is possible to start a fortress that overlaps multiple alignment types (for example good, evil, savage, and benign). Some players consider this desirable, as it provides diversity in your little corner of the world, but it also has its dangers in the form of more ferocious wildlife.

=== Layers ===
Main articles: {{L|Layer}}, {{L|Ore|ore}} and {{L|Stone|stone}}

At the bottom right of the biome view is the data on stone layers, displaying the top eight layers of stone or soil.

Each type of layer stone has certain kinds of ores, gems, and other minerals that will appear within that form of layer. Layers are color-coded by the type of rock they are, with brown indicating {{L|soil}} (useless for raw materials, but easy to dig through), white indicating a {{L|metamorphic layer}} (good for gems, coal, and steel production), light grey indicating a {{L|sedimentary layer}} (indispensable for producing {{L|steel}}), and dark grey indicating either an {{L|igneous extrusive layer}} or an {{L|igneous intrusive layer}} (which may indicate magma pools in the caverns, as well as being good for various metal ores). Igneous layers will never be found in the same biome as sedimentary layers, but it is possible to have both in the same map by embarking over two or more different biomes.

It is very difficult to produce {{L|steel}} without a [[sedimentary layer]]. ([[Steel]] makes nearly the [[Metal#Weapon_.26_Armor_Quality|best weapons and armor]], and the materials are fairly easy to acquire if you have sedimentary layers.) For steel, ideally, look for a site with [[chalk]], [[limestone]], or [[dolomite]], which are not only sedimentary stones, but [[flux]] stones as well. Any site showing some sedimentary stone should contain all of the necessary ingredients, however.

To forge [[steel]], you will need [[iron]] ore, [[flux]] stone, and [[fuel]]. The three ores of [[iron]] (hematite, magnetite, and limonite) can only be found in sedimentary layers, with the exception of hematite, which can occasionally be found in [[igneous extrusive]] layers. Furthermore, four of the five [[flux]] stones (calcite, chalk, dolomite, and limestone) are also only found in sedimentary layers, as well as both [[coal]] ores (bituminous coal and lignite) for making [[coke]] fuel.

If you have no sedimentary layers, your only hope to make steel is with:
* hematite in [[igneous extrusive]] layers
* marble in [[metamorphic]] layers
* wood for making [[charcoal]] fuel
Even if you find and exploit magma for your furnaces, you'll still need the fuel in the smelting process, so you'll be cutting down two trees and burning them to make charcoal for every unit of hematite you are lucky enough to find.

=== Aquifer ===
Main article: {{L|aquifer}}

An aquifer is a layer of soil or stone saturated with water, and a biome may contain upwards of 3 aquifer layers (theoretically more, but such would be rare to say the least). These are represented with ≈≈≈≈≈ symbols in the soil layers. Embarking on an aquifer brings up a warning before embark as an aquifer can significantly raise the difficulty of starting a fort. For specific tactics on working with an aquifer see the main page.

== Changing Views ==
Pressing {{K|Tab}} will cycle the presented information through a variety of different views and panels.
*Neighbors - other civilizations that are closest to your current location. Proximity increases the chance of interaction, though at present this largely means "nearby goblins are more likely to attack you." If any race is not represented on this page, it means that the civilization cannot reach you if you are in that location. Embarking on an {{l|island}}, or a location completely surrounded by mountains will make it impossible for any civilization but your own dwarven civilization to reach you, as world map travel across oceans or mountains is impossible. If not even "Dwarves" appears, it means that your home civilization is dead, and there will be no {{l|migrants}} or {{l|trade}} with your home civilization. (If this is the case, it is recommended you change to a still-existent civilization unless you want the challenge of having no support from the mountainhomes.) Races that are hostile to you are represented by a series of red "-" marks. In vanilla DF, goblins are always hostile, but humans or elves may also be at war with particular dwarven civilizations (and if you choose your starting civilization in the "Your Civilization" screen, they may not be at war with you).
*Your Civilization - indicates all Dwarven civilizations in the world. {{K|*}} and {{K|-}} will cycle through the civilizations allowing you to choose which your settlers will be embarking from. It may be worth looking at your choice of starting civilizations in {{l|Legends}} Mode before embarking, as there is much information about your civilization that is not shown directly at embark, and there is no way short of abandoning a fort to change your civilization once you have embarked. Civilization choice will affect who is at war with you, what goods are available for trade (Dwarven caravans will only have the goods in the region of the city that is trading with your fort. These will be the same goods that are available for you to purchase at embark. Metals or stones, for example, that are not available for you to purchase in the "Prepare Carefully" screen will never be available for trade with the dwarven caravan.), who your regent will be (considering [[Cacame_Awemedinade|one might be surprised by who turns out to be one's regent]], this might be of note, but is only viewable in Legends Mode), and if there are any surviving members of your civilization left to migrate to or trade with your fort.
*Relative Elevation - Shows the land height relative to the lowest point in the region.
*Cliff Indicator - Shows the severity of cliffs. Unless you have turned erosion off, then, with the exception of rivers that cut through mountains, even apparently very steep cliffs will still have ramps that make it perfectly accessible for any creature or even the wagons in caravans.

== Reclaiming a fortress ==

If you reclaim the site of an abandoned fortress you may see goods, materials, and corpses left from the previous effort. These items will initially be [[forbid|forbidden]] and you will have to [[reclaim]] them before your dwarves will acknowledge their existence, for example to haul them to a graveyard or refuse [[stockpile]].

= Creating Your Settlers =

== Play Now! ==
You can forgo the process of assigning skills and supplies and instead select '''Play Now!''' This option will give you a selection of Dwarves with the following profiles:

Updated for 0.31.13:
* Miner: Adequate Miner
* Woodworker: Novice Carpenter, Bowyer
* Woodcutter: Novice Wood Cutter, Brewer, Cook, Grower, Herbalist, Furnace Operator, Wood Burner, Lye Maker, Potash Maker
* Stoneworker: Novice Engraver, Mason, Mechanic, Building Designer
* Jeweler: Novice Gem Cutter, Gem Setter, Wood Crafter, Stone Crafter, and Bone Crafter
* Fisherdwarf: Novice Fisherdwarf
* Fish Cleaner: Novice Fish Cleaner, Butcher, Tanner, Weaver, Clothier, and Leatherworker

One of these will be randomly flagged as Expedition Leader at the start.

From 0.31.12: The default embark value for a custom embark is 1274: 974 in pre-chosen goods and 300 unassigned. The Play Now! embark only uses 1038 points. While a Play Now! embark is no more doomed than any other embark, it is always better to Prepare Carefully once you know what you're doing with the set up of an early fort since Novice Butcher is hardly better than a Dwarf you manually flagged for the job. The only good reason is if you really want the Super Doctor, given the hazards of learning medical skills on-the-job.

Note: In 0.31.13, you no longer embark with any medical skills.

== Prepare Carefully ==
Preparing allows the player to customize their embarking party and supplies by spending a pool of points which is shared between skills and equipment, with each skill rank and equipment item having a set value. The total value of embarking is set at 1,274 points, though all but 300 of these are pre-spent on an array of basic equipment (the same equipment Play Now! uses.) It stands that one should try to maximize the value of their embark by spending all available points.

=== Skills ===
Main article: {{L|Skills|skills}}

The seven settlers you begin with can be assigned up to ten skill ranks picked from the entire Dwarven skill list, including military, though only a maximum of 5 ranks (giving them a rank of "Proficient") can be bought in any one skill. Skill ranks are bought from the shared pool at a cost of 5 for the first rank, 6 for the second, 7 for the third, and so on. Maxing out a skill thus costs a total of 35 points. Although this is already fairly involved, between the long skill list and the floating cost, the value of a rank is subject to further scrutiny given the early-game value, or lack thereof, of certain skills as well as the relative ease or difficulty of training ranks in a given skill. Many skills are performed just as well (or with little functional difference) by a Novice or even a Dabbler as they are by a Legendary. A Novice Furnace Operator won't produce Coke as fast as a Legendary Furnace Operator, but they will produce it fast enough to keep their neighbor smelting hematite until the cows come home.

For a more complex example, there is much overlap between what can be produced out of wood and what can be produced out of metal, but wood is plentiful in the early game (often throughout if a tree farm is established, and caravans will bring in several pages worth of wood if you request it) while metalworking can take much longer to establish, or would take several times longer to produce a given product in early game due to the multiple steps required, especially without a magma smelter. Metalworking also skills up slower than woodworking and metal products have a longer base production time than wood products.

From one point of view, the Woodworking skills would be of more immediate use in producing quick goods of higher value in the early game, especially given the high volume needed; however furniture quality is of little concern in the early game, and the high volume of value-independent goods (such as barrels which you won't be trading away on their own or using to furnish chambers) will cause your carpenter to skill up fairly quickly. Even on a strictly functional level even a Novice carpenter can produce beds, barrels, and bins fast enough to keep up with a fledgling base. Lastly, once metal production is up and running, it can be agonizingly slow if a Farmer or Peasant has to be re-assigned to learn from scratch, thus a proficient Metalsmith stands to pay off much more in time than starting with a proficient Carpenter.

=== Supplies ===

The default array of supplies covers a broad range of foodstuffs, seeds, drink, tools, and medical equipment, and is reasonable, though extra food and drink never hurt anyone.
:* 2 Copper {{l|pick}}s
:* 2 Copper battle {{l|axe}}s
:* 1 Iron {{l|anvil}}
:* 60 units alcohol (20 each of 3 random types1, 12 free barrels)
:* 6 bags containing 5x dimple cup, cave wheat, plump helmet, sweet pods, pig tail, and quarry bush {{l|seed}}s
:* 15 units of meat (one random type, 10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 15 units of fish (one random type, 10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 15 units of plump helmets (10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 5 pig tail fiber thread
:* 5 pig tail fiber cloth
:* 5 pig tail fiber bags
:* 3 pig tail fiber ropes
:* 3 wooden buckets
:* 3 wooden splints
:* 3 wooden crutches
:* 2 dogs (random sex)
:* 2 cats (random sex)
:* 1 random cow/ox/mule/horse (random sex)

Lower forest embark sites should definitely consider bringing extra logs to cover the early demand for beds, &c. Also do not overlook the value of bringing animals. Dogs in particular can provide an excellent early warning system, good fighters against kobolds and other thieves, and a healthy supply of meat and bones.

== Embark Strategies ==
The strategies below are suggestions. They are not universal, and many are even contradictory. This is because there is no One True Way to play Dwarf Fortress. Some may not work for you because of unstated assumptions about priority, value, fun, or procedure. However, since Losing is Fun, it's always worth it to try something out, even if it doesn't go well.

=== Picking the Right Location ===

'''Need More Dirt (and Its Inverse)''' - three layers of soil before the stone layers begin provides a very large area that can be used to quickly carve out efficient storage rooms and large tree farms of the colorful underground trees without the need to flood/muddy large areas of stone. Remember, the embark screen only lists the first eight layers, and the total number of layers is highly random. More dirt does not necessarily mean less stone.

'''Flowing Water (and Its Inverse)''' - flowing water (river or stream) is a must have for the infinite power it supplies for working machinery and because underground water supplies are too dangerous to tap into. There is no guarantee of infinite water underground, you could embark on a map with completely dry caverns. However, rainier climates will always have murky pools, which with careful management can be refilled from the rain. Infinite power for working machinery can be created using a limited amount of water in a perpetual motion machine. Although, being limited in quantity, murky pools simply do not have the capacity to permanently flood your fortress, while a single mistake with an infinite source can easily do so.

=== Preparation Strategies ===

'''Free Barrels''' - many products are stored in bins, barrels, or bags and do not stack with other items even if they're in the same broad classification. Plump Helmets and Horse Meat come in separate barrels even though they're both food. Purchasing a single item of food (or increasing the number to one above the storage limit of the barrel i.e. 11, 21, 31) will also produce a free barrel for it to be stored in. As barrels have a cost of 10 to buy empty, buying a single unit of cost 2 foodstuffs gets you a value of 5. Anything above cost 2 bought for the express purpose of getting barrels would be better off just buying barrels empty or raw logs. This concept can be extended to many different goods, and for any stored good you were "going to buy anyway" you should avoid buying exactly a containerful. Do not get 20, get 21.
* Note that meat products from the same animal will store in the same barrel, thus 1 unit of Horse Meat and 1 unit of Horse Tripe will only get you one barrel, not two.

'''Cheap Bags''' - while even the cheapest bags (made from cave spider silk and low-value leather) cost 10 points each, you can instead simply bring several units of {{L|sand}} costing 1 point each, as each unit of sand will be stored in its own bag made from a randomly selected material (including giant cave spider silk and valuable creature leather).

'''Don't Really Need That''' - unless you have tailored your embark for metal production quick and early, an anvil is typically unnecessary and the 100 points you get from refunding it can be better spent on skills or additional foodstuffs (can't really have enough foodstuffs). By the time the Dwarven caravan arrives in the fall, a 100☼ iron anvil, or even a 300☼ steel anvil, should be little more than an inconvenience. This can sometimes be problematic if you are unlucky and the caravan does not bring an anvil.

'''REALLY Don't Need That''' - For players more familiar with the game. Bring no pre-constructed goods (weapons, buckets, etc.), just the materials to make them with. This requires several (3-10, though you're likely to bring way more) logs, some fire-safe stone, some bars of copper, and an anvil. Upon arrival, build a Wood Furnace and a Forge, make charcoal, then picks for the {{L|miner}}s and an axe for {{L|wood cutter}}s. Medical supplies should be unnecessary to start with, because if you need them you're screwed. You may want to bring some rope along though.

'''Yes, I Do Need That''' - never leave without alcohol unless you bring a dedicated {{L|herbalist|plant gatherer}}/{{L|brewer}}.

=== Skill Sets ===
Here are some sample skill distribution sets. And remember, ''The value of a rank is subject to further scrutiny given the early-game value, or lack thereof''. A proficient miner is always welcomed as a valuable addition to a fortress, but just how valuable is a proficient carpenter, compared to a dabbling one? Slightly higher quality level, produced slightly faster. It may be wise to spend those points elsewhere, perhaps on a diagnostician, or noble's skill. Something not so easily trained.

'''Ashery'''
*Military: 5 armor use, 5 dodge. Possibly a mix of dodge and shield use instead of max dodge, but that's up in the air. Set to start training the moment goods are hauled inside the fort's entrance. Also does woodcutting as needed.
*Doctor/Leader: 1 appraise, 2 diagnose, 2 bone doctor, 2 surgeon, 2 wound dresser, 1 suture. Also serves as one of my primary miners and, once replacement miners come, the fort's first bookkeeper as well.
*Farmer/Cook: 4 farming, 5 cooking, 1 armorsmith. Does most of the early hauling grunt work, but eventually is restricted only to food related activities. No mining is done in order to keep armorsmithing as the highest moodable skill.
*Farmer/Brewer: 4 farming, 5 brewing, 1 armorsmith. Same as the cook.
*Weapon/Armorsmith: 5 armorsmith, 5 weaponsmith. Does a sizable amount of the early mining, but is removed from duty before the mining skill gets too high.
*Mason: 5 mason, 5 building design. Can help out with mining if necessary, but is usually busy constructing buildings or helping the farmers haul goods.
*Carpenter/Mechanic: 5 carpentry, 5 mechanic. An odd mix, but mechanisms are my primary export.

'''Tarran'''
*(every skill has five points put into it)
*2 miners/engravers (when they are not mining they are engraving)
*1 mason/carpenter (deals with all that stuff)
*1 mechanic/stonecrafter (when he is not making mechanisms he is making crafts)
*1 woodcutter/architect (when not cutting wood he is designing buildings)
*1 grower/brewer (deals with all my needs this early in the game)
*1 adequate armorsmith, weaponsmith, and metalcrafter. novice furnace operator, and wood burner (remove wood burner if you have magma)

'''Ancient Enemy'''
*Leader with all his points distributed through negotiation/bookkeeper/appraiser/etc.
*3 dwarves with proficient mining
*1 proficient grower
*1 proficient brewer
*1 proficient cook

'''Proteus'''
*Leader/Miner: 6-7 points into things important to become leader and broker (appraisal, negotiation, judge of intent, organizing and others, all at least with 1 pt), rest into mining
*Doc/Recordkeeper +at least another productive job: 1-2pts into diagnostics, 1pt in each other medical skill, 1pt in recordkeeping, rest into 1-2 jobs
*Cook: 4-5pts in cooking, 2-4pts in brewing, rest in fish cleaning and butchery
*Farmer: around 3-4pts in Growing, at least 1pt in milling, plant processing and brewing
*Crafter: Usually 5pts in stone crafting, rest in other crafting jobs (although that might change, as now bone carving has become next to worthless)
*Clothier: 2-4pts in leatherworking and clothier, rest into weaving and tanning
*Builder: Most of his points into Masonry, Engraving and Mechanics, as well as a few points into Carpenter (if no other dwarf already has pts in this job)

'''Cronus'''
*Miners/Mechanics: 2 dwarfs with max points in mining and mechanics; get the fort, then those traps, up quickly.
*Woodcutter/Carpenter: points in woodcutting and carpentry; chop during initial dig then start pumping out beds and barrels
*Farmer/Brewer: points in farming and brewing; get the wheat and helmets in and brew during the off-season. Can also serve as butcher in a pinch.
*Crafter: points dispersed into stonecrafting, bonecarving, weaving, and leatherworking.
*Mason/Architect: points into masonry and building design. Allows a focus on walls, doors, and bridges.
*Leader/Trader: spread points among appraisal, negotiator, conversationalist, consoler, and comedian.

= See Also =
*New players may find the [[Quickstart guide]] useful.
*The [[Starting build|Starting Build]] article has more detailed embark strategies.

User:RadGH

2010-12-03T08:58:55Z

RadGH: Created page with 'With perhaps too much criticism, I hope to enhance the dwarf fortress wiki's content. For the most part, magmawiki's content is amazing. I registered to enhance it with questions…'

With perhaps too much criticism, I hope to enhance the dwarf fortress wiki's content. For the most part, magmawiki's content is amazing. I registered to enhance it with questions I've had through personal experience both of my own fortresses, and my introducing of friends to the game.

= Wishlist =
* Optional game-pausing '''Alert system''' on combat not provoked by a squad, which can perhaps be set to only inform you when a dwarf sustains a minor injury, moderate injury, or perhaps loses a limb.
* Within the '''trade depot''', wooden items should appear as a different color when trading with elves. It feels unfair that they will sell you a wooden cage containing a chimpanzee, but completely refuse to talk to you if you offer them a similar empty wooden cage. I still, to this day, sometimes select a wooden item by accident. Not due to my skill level, but instead due to the poor categorization of the items. (Perhaps the organizer skill should be involved with this system)
* '''Better system for constructing walls and floors''': Building human-like structures above ground is quite tedious. I especially dislike the sorting method of materials, and would like to sort by quantity rather than distance in many cases.
* '''Bed Functionality''': Assign to next available dwarf (who doesn't already have a bed assigned). Assigning individual rooms is quite annoying, and being able to auto-size the room and also auto-assign the bed would be amazingly convenient.
* '''Craftable books''' possibly containing randomly generated content, either a summary, title, or even a multiple page description of each book. Artifact books may even contain [http://www.bay12games.com/dwarves/dev_story.html Threetoe's Stories], at least randomly generated content which would be similar in the end product. Perhaps books can be placed in a library for happy thoughts.
* '''Automation Machines''' most favorably conveyor belts (or mine carts) and elevators to carry stone from deep within the earth dumping them into stockpiles. Similar to axles, except with a receiving end and dumping end. Dwarves, when moving an object, should consider the distance to the nearest appropriate stockpile. They then should inspect nearby machine parts for an entry way which will dump the object closer than the original position.
* '''Exercise machines''' or sports, or a gym, or other ways to train the agility/strength of dwarves (In addition to passively training by doing physical labor), instead of the rather unsatisfying way of becoming legendary in a skill to gain super stats (feels like cheating, really).
* '''Assigning mounts''' to squads, or even individual dwarves (similar to assigning war/hunting dogs). This could increase mobility, toughness, and perhaps with enough training, efficiency of combat. I recall elves in 40d arriving at my fortress riding unicorns. Although I am unsure about how the system actually worked at the time.
* '''Wood/Stone/Metal Strengths''', an Ogre should easily be able to bash his way out of a wooden cage, but perhaps an adamantite cage could hold a young dragon. The numbers are apparently there, as they are used for weapons and item weight.
* Simplified, or at least more forgiving '''hospitalization'''. Compared to the other aspects of the game, diagnosis and treatment of wounds has become one of the most advanced. Although enemies don't have to worry, even defeating a foe usually wields in a dwarf becoming useless for at least a short period to rest his wounds, but often causes death from infection. It is too taxing to treat wounds and such, as the clueless lemmings continually flee from opponents by running circles around the map, instead of retreating to burrows as you ordered.
* Better '''pathfinding'''. When building a wall, dwarves should construct from the first square adjacent to their destination, rather than running past the destination, often walling themselves inside a chamber as it fills with water or magma. Even if avoidable, pathfinding should be improved.
* Multi-threading. I see eight processors in my task manager, yet only one is being used by my dwarves. What a terrible
* '''Religious involvement'''. Deities are present, but you cannot craft any items relating to a deity. You cannot define a place of worship. Dwarves can not bless a sick or wounded dwarf for protection. Dwarves do not gain happy thoughts in times of darkness through prayer of the unknown forces which may not even exist.
* '''Digging creatures''', who can dig through dirt and sand, but not stone. Perhaps natural, non-smoothed stone.
* More '''Machine Parts''', especially the ability to place water pipes similar to axles, to transfer water without the need of an aqueduct. But also the elevators/conveyor belts mentioned above. Either for moving resources to stockpiles, or to allow dwarves to move long distances quicker, especially if carrying heavy objects. Some already implemented machine parts should require power, most notably drawbridges. They should be able to be manually raised, but to close remotely should require power.
* Natural Disasters, completely optional. Tomorrows forecast: Fireballs!

v0.31 Talk:Quickstart guide

2010-12-03T07:44:13Z

RadGH: /* "Quick"-start guide */

*<s>Is this seriously what we want to say here? Wouldn't 'coming soon' be better?</s> --[[User:StrongAxe|StrongAxe]] 13:04, 5 April 2010 (UTC)
**Much better, thanks. --[[User:StrongAxe|StrongAxe]] 12:00, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

there are so many differences between the current and last to make last edition totally unusable (farming is a MAJOR one) it needs to be rewritten entirely.

* Can dwarves die of old age?

** (collective wiki roaring laughter)

* Does the CODE check if dwarves are too old to live?

** (collective comments about how almost every block of code contributes to it)

* Does the CODE check if dwarves are able to die from the numerical value of their age going over a certain number?

** (collective comments requesting savefiles with really old dwarves, which are NOT proven to exist... yet)

* If I mod the game to have one of my dwarves 10000000000 years old, will he die as a result?

** Yeah, that one needs to go in the FAQ under 'humor' and 'is it coded to be a signed or an unsigned integer?' which can only be found out by testing it.

We need a complete-guide thingy. Perhaps we can get the developper to anwser 3 questions per 1000$ donation level reached or something.

I'm taking a stab at writing this. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 15:53, 27 October 2010 (UTC)

Rough draft mostly finished. I will write a bit about setting up a cistern and well, and a hospital zone. And a little more about actually using the military. And then maybe a 'where do I go from here?' section. I also need to double check everything, as I wrote this from memory while sitting in the server room at work, baby-sitting a tach, per HIPPA requirements that non-employees can't be in there without a chaperon. Maybe I'll put up some screenshots to illustrate things. I would appreciate any feedback anyone has, I'm sure I've forgotten something. I'd like this to be a general guide that introduces players to the kinds of decisions they will have o make later on, rather than walk-through for a a pre-made site, but it should end up with players having a functional fort. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 23:56, 27 October 2010 (UTC)

=== "Quick"-start guide ===
I'd like to protest some complaints about the guide. Seasoned dwarf fortress players should not need this guide, referring particularly to the opening paragraph. Perhaps a different page showing what changes to expect if they had played an old version (especially farms). A new player would read these and become confused by their meaning (Speaking from personal experience, trying to introduce a friend to the game with this guide).
I would also like to question why this guide is considered a "quickstart" guide. It is very long, not quick by any standard, and indeed is more of a tutorial than a guide (Reading the paragraph "And So It Begins").
I decided this guide is not intended for a new player, I then found the [[Bentgirder]] tutorial, and have used that instead.
All in all this guide is rather mediocre, in dire need of revision and simplification. And per wiki standards, should be professional and informative, rather than personal and informal (It shouldn't sound like someone is holding your hand and telling you what to do).--[[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 07:43, 3 December 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Quickstart guide

2010-12-03T07:43:38Z

RadGH:

*<s>Is this seriously what we want to say here? Wouldn't 'coming soon' be better?</s> --[[User:StrongAxe|StrongAxe]] 13:04, 5 April 2010 (UTC)
**Much better, thanks. --[[User:StrongAxe|StrongAxe]] 12:00, 6 April 2010 (UTC)

there are so many differences between the current and last to make last edition totally unusable (farming is a MAJOR one) it needs to be rewritten entirely.

* Can dwarves die of old age?

** (collective wiki roaring laughter)

* Does the CODE check if dwarves are too old to live?

** (collective comments about how almost every block of code contributes to it)

* Does the CODE check if dwarves are able to die from the numerical value of their age going over a certain number?

** (collective comments requesting savefiles with really old dwarves, which are NOT proven to exist... yet)

* If I mod the game to have one of my dwarves 10000000000 years old, will he die as a result?

** Yeah, that one needs to go in the FAQ under 'humor' and 'is it coded to be a signed or an unsigned integer?' which can only be found out by testing it.

We need a complete-guide thingy. Perhaps we can get the developper to anwser 3 questions per 1000$ donation level reached or something.

I'm taking a stab at writing this. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 15:53, 27 October 2010 (UTC)

Rough draft mostly finished. I will write a bit about setting up a cistern and well, and a hospital zone. And a little more about actually using the military. And then maybe a 'where do I go from here?' section. I also need to double check everything, as I wrote this from memory while sitting in the server room at work, baby-sitting a tach, per HIPPA requirements that non-employees can't be in there without a chaperon. Maybe I'll put up some screenshots to illustrate things. I would appreciate any feedback anyone has, I'm sure I've forgotten something. I'd like this to be a general guide that introduces players to the kinds of decisions they will have o make later on, rather than walk-through for a a pre-made site, but it should end up with players having a functional fort. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 23:56, 27 October 2010 (UTC)

=== "Quick"-start guide ===
I'd like to protest some complaints about the guide. Seasoned dwarf fortress players should not need this guide. Perhaps a different page showing what changes to expect if they had played an old version (especially farms). A new player would read these and become confused by their meaning (Speaking from personal experience, trying to introduce a friend to the game with this guide).
I would also like to question why this guide is considered a "quickstart" guide. It is very long, not quick by any standard, and indeed is more of a tutorial than a guide (Reading the paragraph "And So It Begins").
I decided this guide is not intended for a new player, I then found the [[Bentgirder]] tutorial, and have used that instead.
All in all this guide is rather mediocre, in dire need of revision and simplification. And per wiki standards, should be professional and informative, rather than personal and informal (It shouldn't sound like someone is holding your hand and telling you what to do).--[[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 07:43, 3 December 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Well guide

2010-12-03T07:30:28Z

RadGH: /* Well-Tower */

==Mud contaminant==
Complete misinformation on this page. Wells DO NOT filter out mud or any other actual contaminant. If they did, water from wells could not be used to irrigate. It would not create mud on stone floor tiles. Mud is what makes water stagnant, NOT coming from a murky pool. You NEED to filter out mud to stop the bad thought that comes from drinking stagnant water. Grates and bars filter out contaminants. I have verified this. You can too, well users, look at your stock screens. Tab to change modes. Look at all the water you own, even the stuff in buckets is stagnant if you are playing the latest version and you aren't cleaning with grates or bars. Unless you cleaned it first. There is one scenario I have not yet investigated, though: what happens if your well is above a grate, above water? This is not a bad idea in general, the grate will prevent anyone falling into the well from falling into the water. I haven't verified if passing through a grate this way even works, let alone filters contaminants.– [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:71.222.187.247|71.222.187.247]]
:Wrong. Wells do filter out mud. Since mud is created simply by having water on a tile, you can't have a well reaching water that isn't mud-contaminated. Try it - build a cistern, pump some water in (so it's completely uncontaminated), look at the floor of the cistern. "Stagnant" does come from murky pools specifically - the pool will give the water a '''grime''' coating, which in turn makes the water stagnant. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 05:34, 28 November 2010 (UTC)
::Both wrong as hell. Wells don't give a crap about mud. Mud is an object spawned on a floor tile when water enters that tile. It's just an object, not a trait associated to the tile itself. Murky pools and brooks are special, unique floor tiles which control the maner in which water evaporates from above them. Mud doesn't form on these tiles. When a well is over a murky pool or brook tile, it will assume that the water is stagnant and filthy, and THAT is where the negative thought comes from. Furthermore, water doesn't carry mud with it, it just stays there on the tile it initially formed on. Thus, you can't really filter the mud, as the water doesn't get muddy. The only "filtration" you can do is with salt water. The well guide already explains how to desalinate water, both the easy and the hard way, though I've yet to do the step-by-step on the hard way... (Or any of the step-by-steps, really...) Anyways, thanks DeMatt for fixing that.--Kydo 06:31, 29 November 2010 (UTC)
:::Oh, crap, looking back, I need to do a minor update to this. Mud still isn't a contaminant, but contaminants have become much more complicated. I don't remember reading about that being implemented, but there it is! I guess I'll have to build even more experiments... Damn. The nature of contaminants is weird. Some will mix with water, while others just appear as small piles and don't actually seem to interact with water at all! --Kydo 07:03, 29 November 2010 (UTC)
:: I am telling you, I have taken water from a brook, through a well, and seen "stagnant water" listed in buckets. Perhaps I jumped to conclusions about the mud, but I have stagnant water in buckets. Okay, maybe they filled the buckets from a pool rather than the well, but until I put in a grate, ALL I had was stagnant water. Every single drop in every bucket was stagnant. After the grate, none of it was. Please do not jump to the conclusion that someone seeing something different than you must be mistaken, this game changes very quickly and new releases introduce new mechanics. At least have the decency to do some tests with the latest version before crying "Wrong!!" [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 17:29, 29 November 2010 (UTC)
::: I am using the latest version. I just never read anything about any contaminants update at any point, and it never really came up in any of my fortresses, as my dwarves never get bloody, rarely bathe, and mud has no effect on wells. Thus, I didn't even think water contaminants existed until this came up! I'm sorry I was rather nasty to you. It was completely uncalled for. --Kydo 03:21, 30 November 2010 (UTC)
* I'm posting further discussion over at [[DF2010_Talk:Well]] to avoid duplication of arguments. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 01:40, 30 November 2010 (UTC)

== Where's the guide? ==
Linked here from the [[Well]] main page, which says "see the (recommended) Well Guide" ... I would like to read this guide :) --[[User:FleshForge|FleshForge]] 11:50, 10 August 2010 (UTC)
:Yeah, this really should be updated. The 40d version of this page was kind of disorganized and vague at times anyways. I can clean it up a little to make sense for the new version of the game and post it here if nobody has any complaints about me doing so. --Kydo 15:20, 13 October 2010 (UTC)
Thanks. That would be great.[[User:Decius|Decius]] 20:56, 13 October 2010 (UTC)
: Right, so, I've got what I've finished uploaded to my user page, if you want to look it over and tear it apart. It's not finished, as the step-by-step section is empty thus far. I will put more into it, but I want to use actual in-game screenshots as examples, to show that it all works. So that part may take a while. If you guys can help me on that, it'd be awesome. Oh, also, it is RIFE with unverified stuff. Like, I don't know if he fixed the "urist mcdorf fell down the well again" problem. I need to do a bunch of verification work. Which is part of what the working examples thing is about. --Kydo 03:50, 14 October 2010 (UTC)
:: Nobody's commenting. I'll just upload it in it's unfinished state and work on it as I find the inclination to. At the very least, it might set off an argument, which is better than nothing at all. Hopefully, having something actually on the page might prompt people other than myself to start making edits of their own, fixing my heapinng pile of mistakes. --Kydo 08:25, 16 October 2010 (UTC)
It might be useful to mention u-bends (see [[DF2010:Pressure]]). In older versions it was possible to lower the z-level of water with a series of u-bends, I suppose this still holds true in the current version. --[[Special:Contributions/92.224.74.71|92.224.74.71]] 15:18, 16 October 2010 (UTC)
: Yes, it is. That's actually exactly how gravity-fed aqueducts carry water to their subterranean reservoirs. But the original well guide didn't really talk much about the behavior of water, preferring to linking to the page on pressure. It assumes you have read both the well page and the pressure page, and gives a fair bit of warning of the danger of flooding. Actually, I found a glitch in u-pipe filling. I haven't figured out exactly what causes it, but it seems that if you try to u-pipe fill a chamber that's already full of water, both water sources try to push down, and regardless of how much water is in either water source, push down with equal force, and go nowhere. I think it has something to do with the door separating the two opening, leaving an empty space, which both sources flow into, initiating the direction of flow, and once it's full, the game thinks it's done and just stops flowing. I think. I need to experiment with it more, because it only happens sometimes. Also, thanks for fixing my stuff a bit. I forgot that not all aquefers are salty. Actually, each water source should have a link to it's own page, so that you can learn more about them individually... Actually, reading over the page on pressure, it looks like it could use a little cleanup too... I'll get to it eventually. --Kydo 16:12, 16 October 2010 (UTC)

== Mud doesn't dry? ==
"''First, you need to "irrigate" underground floors before you can actually farm on them. Instead of making a separate, elaborate irrigation system for just one use, (To my knowledge, mud doesn't dry) why not just drain it out of your well?''"- from Multitasking wells.

Actually when I started my last game there was already mud for farming underground, but I had forgotten seeds.(:/) And when I later checked there was not mud... -A4

:Really? Because I have never seen anything about mud evaporating. Nobody has ever been able to confirm it. The only confirmed method of removing mud, is to build something on it, like a floor, and then remove the construction. My current fortress has been running for about four (game) years, and the mud I made for irrigation at the beginning has yet to dry. --Kydo 16:19, 10 November 2010 (UTC)

==Danger of flooding?==
Really? All this hoopla over flooding, and no mention of diagonal pressure reduction?

###X ###
##0#
###

X=floodgate
#=tunnel
0=where you put the well one level above.

It couldn't get any simpler. I have never once filled up a reservoir by bucket. Once you understand that a diagonal connection removes ALL pressure, flooding should never be a problem. You get the benefit of pressure, quick delivery of the water, without the risk of flooding. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 17:11, 28 October 2010 (UTC)

: You're right, diagona pressure gates can be handy. I can think of a more effctive design, though... A diagonal pressure gate only works riht under specific circumstances. If water has the ability to flow downward at any point after a diagonal pressure gate, it will be pressurized back to the gate's height. It also doesn't prevent water from flooding into the rest of the level it's on, which depending on where your well is located, can be a problem. If you depressurize water before it enters the well's reservoir, it will only fill the bottom level, which makes multi-level wells impossible. Ah, but if the fill pipe connects to the TOP edge of your reservoir, and fills diagonally, the game will depressurize the water as it enters the reservoir! Which means water will only ever be able to fill to the top edge! --Kydo 16:16, 10 November 2010 (UTC)

== Well-Tower ==
'' A well tower may indeed be cool.''
To what purpose would a well-tower serve, and why should it be listed in this guide? This seems impractical, by all means, and although some players may build them it seems more ornamental than anything else. --[[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 07:30, 3 December 2010 (UTC)

v0.31 Talk:Well guide

2010-12-03T07:30:10Z

RadGH:

==Mud contaminant==
Complete misinformation on this page. Wells DO NOT filter out mud or any other actual contaminant. If they did, water from wells could not be used to irrigate. It would not create mud on stone floor tiles. Mud is what makes water stagnant, NOT coming from a murky pool. You NEED to filter out mud to stop the bad thought that comes from drinking stagnant water. Grates and bars filter out contaminants. I have verified this. You can too, well users, look at your stock screens. Tab to change modes. Look at all the water you own, even the stuff in buckets is stagnant if you are playing the latest version and you aren't cleaning with grates or bars. Unless you cleaned it first. There is one scenario I have not yet investigated, though: what happens if your well is above a grate, above water? This is not a bad idea in general, the grate will prevent anyone falling into the well from falling into the water. I haven't verified if passing through a grate this way even works, let alone filters contaminants.– [[template:unsigned|unsigned]] comment by [[User:71.222.187.247|71.222.187.247]]
:Wrong. Wells do filter out mud. Since mud is created simply by having water on a tile, you can't have a well reaching water that isn't mud-contaminated. Try it - build a cistern, pump some water in (so it's completely uncontaminated), look at the floor of the cistern. "Stagnant" does come from murky pools specifically - the pool will give the water a '''grime''' coating, which in turn makes the water stagnant. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 05:34, 28 November 2010 (UTC)
::Both wrong as hell. Wells don't give a crap about mud. Mud is an object spawned on a floor tile when water enters that tile. It's just an object, not a trait associated to the tile itself. Murky pools and brooks are special, unique floor tiles which control the maner in which water evaporates from above them. Mud doesn't form on these tiles. When a well is over a murky pool or brook tile, it will assume that the water is stagnant and filthy, and THAT is where the negative thought comes from. Furthermore, water doesn't carry mud with it, it just stays there on the tile it initially formed on. Thus, you can't really filter the mud, as the water doesn't get muddy. The only "filtration" you can do is with salt water. The well guide already explains how to desalinate water, both the easy and the hard way, though I've yet to do the step-by-step on the hard way... (Or any of the step-by-steps, really...) Anyways, thanks DeMatt for fixing that.--Kydo 06:31, 29 November 2010 (UTC)
:::Oh, crap, looking back, I need to do a minor update to this. Mud still isn't a contaminant, but contaminants have become much more complicated. I don't remember reading about that being implemented, but there it is! I guess I'll have to build even more experiments... Damn. The nature of contaminants is weird. Some will mix with water, while others just appear as small piles and don't actually seem to interact with water at all! --Kydo 07:03, 29 November 2010 (UTC)
:: I am telling you, I have taken water from a brook, through a well, and seen "stagnant water" listed in buckets. Perhaps I jumped to conclusions about the mud, but I have stagnant water in buckets. Okay, maybe they filled the buckets from a pool rather than the well, but until I put in a grate, ALL I had was stagnant water. Every single drop in every bucket was stagnant. After the grate, none of it was. Please do not jump to the conclusion that someone seeing something different than you must be mistaken, this game changes very quickly and new releases introduce new mechanics. At least have the decency to do some tests with the latest version before crying "Wrong!!" [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 17:29, 29 November 2010 (UTC)
::: I am using the latest version. I just never read anything about any contaminants update at any point, and it never really came up in any of my fortresses, as my dwarves never get bloody, rarely bathe, and mud has no effect on wells. Thus, I didn't even think water contaminants existed until this came up! I'm sorry I was rather nasty to you. It was completely uncalled for. --Kydo 03:21, 30 November 2010 (UTC)
* I'm posting further discussion over at [[DF2010_Talk:Well]] to avoid duplication of arguments. --[[User:DeMatt|DeMatt]] 01:40, 30 November 2010 (UTC)

== Where's the guide? ==
Linked here from the [[Well]] main page, which says "see the (recommended) Well Guide" ... I would like to read this guide :) --[[User:FleshForge|FleshForge]] 11:50, 10 August 2010 (UTC)
:Yeah, this really should be updated. The 40d version of this page was kind of disorganized and vague at times anyways. I can clean it up a little to make sense for the new version of the game and post it here if nobody has any complaints about me doing so. --Kydo 15:20, 13 October 2010 (UTC)
Thanks. That would be great.[[User:Decius|Decius]] 20:56, 13 October 2010 (UTC)
: Right, so, I've got what I've finished uploaded to my user page, if you want to look it over and tear it apart. It's not finished, as the step-by-step section is empty thus far. I will put more into it, but I want to use actual in-game screenshots as examples, to show that it all works. So that part may take a while. If you guys can help me on that, it'd be awesome. Oh, also, it is RIFE with unverified stuff. Like, I don't know if he fixed the "urist mcdorf fell down the well again" problem. I need to do a bunch of verification work. Which is part of what the working examples thing is about. --Kydo 03:50, 14 October 2010 (UTC)
:: Nobody's commenting. I'll just upload it in it's unfinished state and work on it as I find the inclination to. At the very least, it might set off an argument, which is better than nothing at all. Hopefully, having something actually on the page might prompt people other than myself to start making edits of their own, fixing my heapinng pile of mistakes. --Kydo 08:25, 16 October 2010 (UTC)
It might be useful to mention u-bends (see [[DF2010:Pressure]]). In older versions it was possible to lower the z-level of water with a series of u-bends, I suppose this still holds true in the current version. --[[Special:Contributions/92.224.74.71|92.224.74.71]] 15:18, 16 October 2010 (UTC)
: Yes, it is. That's actually exactly how gravity-fed aqueducts carry water to their subterranean reservoirs. But the original well guide didn't really talk much about the behavior of water, preferring to linking to the page on pressure. It assumes you have read both the well page and the pressure page, and gives a fair bit of warning of the danger of flooding. Actually, I found a glitch in u-pipe filling. I haven't figured out exactly what causes it, but it seems that if you try to u-pipe fill a chamber that's already full of water, both water sources try to push down, and regardless of how much water is in either water source, push down with equal force, and go nowhere. I think it has something to do with the door separating the two opening, leaving an empty space, which both sources flow into, initiating the direction of flow, and once it's full, the game thinks it's done and just stops flowing. I think. I need to experiment with it more, because it only happens sometimes. Also, thanks for fixing my stuff a bit. I forgot that not all aquefers are salty. Actually, each water source should have a link to it's own page, so that you can learn more about them individually... Actually, reading over the page on pressure, it looks like it could use a little cleanup too... I'll get to it eventually. --Kydo 16:12, 16 October 2010 (UTC)

== Mud doesn't dry? ==
"''First, you need to "irrigate" underground floors before you can actually farm on them. Instead of making a separate, elaborate irrigation system for just one use, (To my knowledge, mud doesn't dry) why not just drain it out of your well?''"- from Multitasking wells.

Actually when I started my last game there was already mud for farming underground, but I had forgotten seeds.(:/) And when I later checked there was not mud... -A4

:Really? Because I have never seen anything about mud evaporating. Nobody has ever been able to confirm it. The only confirmed method of removing mud, is to build something on it, like a floor, and then remove the construction. My current fortress has been running for about four (game) years, and the mud I made for irrigation at the beginning has yet to dry. --Kydo 16:19, 10 November 2010 (UTC)

==Danger of flooding?==
Really? All this hoopla over flooding, and no mention of diagonal pressure reduction?

###X ###
##0#
###

X=floodgate
#=tunnel
0=where you put the well one level above.

It couldn't get any simpler. I have never once filled up a reservoir by bucket. Once you understand that a diagonal connection removes ALL pressure, flooding should never be a problem. You get the benefit of pressure, quick delivery of the water, without the risk of flooding. [[User:GhostDwemer|GhostDwemer]] 17:11, 28 October 2010 (UTC)

: You're right, diagona pressure gates can be handy. I can think of a more effctive design, though... A diagonal pressure gate only works riht under specific circumstances. If water has the ability to flow downward at any point after a diagonal pressure gate, it will be pressurized back to the gate's height. It also doesn't prevent water from flooding into the rest of the level it's on, which depending on where your well is located, can be a problem. If you depressurize water before it enters the well's reservoir, it will only fill the bottom level, which makes multi-level wells impossible. Ah, but if the fill pipe connects to the TOP edge of your reservoir, and fills diagonally, the game will depressurize the water as it enters the reservoir! Which means water will only ever be able to fill to the top edge! --Kydo 16:16, 10 November 2010 (UTC)

== Well-Tower ==
'' A well tower may indeed be a cool.''
To what purpose would a well-tower serve, and why should it be listed in this guide? This seems impractical, by all means, and although some players may build them it seems more ornamental than anything else. --[[User:RadGH|RadGH]] 07:30, 3 December 2010 (UTC)

v0.31:Well guide

2010-12-03T07:24:18Z

RadGH: /* In the Sky */

{{quality|Exceptional|04:49, 17 October 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
''This guide assumes you've read the main article on '''{{L|well}}s''' and are familiar with the basic information found in that article, of what a well does and what is required to build one.''

A well can be vital to any fortress, but deciding that you need one and building one are two different things. Draining water from the surface can flood your fortress if you aren't careful, and building a well only to see the water source dry up or freeze is beyond frustrating. This guide will walk you through a number of different situations, and explain solutions that have been found for these problems.
If you are looking for the step by step guide: [http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/DF2010:Well_guide#Step_by_Step]

== Why Build a Well? ==

Honestly, not every fortress NEEDS a well. But they all need some form of safe ''water source'' to bring water to patients and prisoners. If they do not have this and you find yourself in a siege with six injured dwarves, you're in trouble... But a hole full of water can be just as good for that as a well.

=== Why You Might Not ===

1. Wells are currently a little wonky, like everything else, but in a not-so-friendly way. There are plenty of opportunities to flood a fortress through a well, and even if you don't, dwarves and animals might still occasionally fall in.

2. They take a lot of time and effort to construct, especially when compared to alternatives.

3. Because of the way wells are, a single hole in a flat ceiling, it makes it more difficult for creatures to get out, should they find themselves in your water source.

4. Technically, a trench full of water can be designated as a water source just as easily as a well, and dwarves will sanely path around such a thing, as well as bathe in it more easily.

5. If you do make a shallow pool as a water source, and have a meeting hall designated therein, unoccupied dwarves will hang out in the water, gaining swiming skill.

=== Why You Might ===

1. While a trench full of water can be used as a water source, a well can draw water from a source that is 30+ levels below. Also, a trench water source can only be one level deep, dwarves will not draw water from any level deeper than that. A well will.

2. Wells can be made to have extraordinarily high value, due to the various skills and materials, each with their own quality levels, which go into it's construction. Thus, as the center piece for a meeting room, even if they have no water, wells can be very handy in making dwarves very happy.

3. As far as the well itself goes, they take up very little space in your actual fortress. With a water-filled channel, the reservoir is equivalent to the floor space occupied.

4. This is a glitch, but wells are the easiest method for making salt water drinkable. Wells will ignore salinity and allow dwarves to drink salt water directly from it's source without a glitch. So long as it isn't murky.

== Choosing a Location ==

Once you've decided it's time to construct a well, you need to consider where the well needs to be. It helps if you've been planning for this while building the rest of your fortress, and have made room for it.

You want a well central to your dwarfs, so they'll all get good thoughts from seeing it, and near any {{L|Health_care_(labor)|hospital}} beds you have, but you want it off the main traffic routs. You can have more than one well, which solves that problem, but raises the one of engineering water to feed them all. If it's indoors (or behind walls), then there's little threat from {{L|carp}}, {{L|goblins}}, or {{L|animal}}s, and it can provide a safe source of drinking water during a {{L|siege}}.

Depending on your start location, you may already have a pre-existing water source, such as a flooded cavern, which you can just build a well over. Or, as is usually the case, you may need to transport water from some other location to where you want your well to be. This is where things get complicated.

== Water sources ==

A well needs a water source of at least 3/7 depth, at least 1 {{L|z-level}} somewhere directly below it's opening, with no obstructions between itself and said water. Pre-existing water is safe because it's the most predictable - what you see is what you've got, no surprises. You can instead use dwarven engineering to bring water from a distant source to beneath your well, with a safety factor based on your experience and the complexity of the project. (See {{L|flood}}.)

The important part about the well is to make sure that you don't create a situation where the water will {{L|flood}} your fortress, due to {{L|Water_pressure|pressure}} from a source at a higher level. If the water is stable before you build the well above it, it will be safe (unless your dwarfs change things), but if you are introducing a flow, make sure you understand how pressure works and will not fall victim to its surprises. (See {{L|Water_pressure|pressure}}.)

=== Pre-existing sources ===

A {{L|brook}}, {{L|river}}, {{L|murky pool}}, or {{L|cavern}} lakes can provide water under a well. The surface of a brook tile will have to be channeled out, but it works just fine. Murky pools can dry up in warm seasons, and the well will be useless until they refill from {{L|rain}}. On hot maps, this may never happen - it's quite possible to see your murky pools (which are always full at {{L|embark}}) {{L|evaporate}} away before you ever get a chance to build a well.

Using stagnant water directly from murky pools or brooks is not optimal, as it will give dwarves negative thoughts, "Has complained about the nasty water lately". To avoid this, moving water from these places on to floor tiles that are not identified as riverbeds or ponds, and building a well over ''that'' will work just fine, so long as the final depth is 3/7 or greater.

=== {{L|Aquifer|Aquifers}} ===

If you have an aquifer, just channel a 1x1 square in any open stretch of floor above it and build the well. It will automatically fill and never flood. You'll have other construction projects to worry about.

=== {{L|Ocean|Oceans}} ===

Oceans and aquifers near oceans carry salty water. This is normally unpleasant to dwarves, but for some reason, drinking that water through a well is perfectly fine. This is a bug. But, if you really want to, it is possible to desalinate water by running it through a pump, (This is ''also'' a bug.) BUT, if that water touches any natural surfaces it will turn salty again. The floor, walls and ceiling of the aqueduct and reservoir all need to be constructed.

=== {{L|Reservoir|Reservoirs}} ===

If you need to move water to your well, you need to dig/build a reservoir. A reservoir is basically a big hole intended for the storage of large quantities of water.

When digging a reservoir, you need to consider your needs and the space you have available. Do you really need a 20x20x20 reservoir, holding 56,000 tiles of water, requiring 560,000 uses of the well to fully dry up? Frequently, in well-managed fortresses, wells are really only used for the care of sick or imprisoned dwarves and animals. As a result, it doesn't really need to be anything special, unless it's a meeting hall, in which case dwarves will drink from it at random.

Another consideration is safety. (See Below) Specifically, dwarves can fall into wells. You may wish to place some sort of escape rout from the well, should anyone do so. At the least, this just needs to be a staircase going up the side of the well to the surface. The shorter the distance they need to go, the better off they are. Keep in mind, of course, that if any wildlife is able to access your reservoir, and if any of them are able to leave the water, they may wander into your fortress through the escape rout. If they're particularly malicious, they may even path their way in to attack your dwarves.

If you are filling the reservoir by aqueduct, consider the fill point. If you are using only gravity to fill the well, but the water needs to flow up to do so, you may experience problems when it comes time to refill your well. Specifically, water floods upwards into empty space very easily, but for some reason doesn't like to flood through still water. Thus, it may be more appropriate to have the reservoir fill from it's top, though keep in mind that this is a very fast fill method and can flood a bit if you aren't watching and have a small reservoir. (As a side note on that, it is possible to fill a well by pouring water directly through the well opening itself)

Finally, you may find some circumstance where you'd wish to make changes to the well. For example, building a statue in it's reservoir, or recovering a lost loved one who fell in and cracked his skull open. In these instances, you may wish to construct a manual drain. All it requires is a hatch or floodgate at the bottom of the well, connected to a lever, covering a tunnel leading to an appropriate dump site... Like your subterranean farming operation. Or your obsidian factory. Or a room full of captured <s>nobles</s> goblins. If you already have a drain for the aqueduct, you can easily connect the two.

== Filling the Well ==

If you've had to construct a well separate from a pre-existing water source, you need to move that water to the well itself. There's two main ways to go about this.

=== Bucket Filling a Well ===

If you designate your well as a pit/pond and have empty buckets, dwarves will fill the well manually. Keep in mind that this is slow, time-consuming and occupies dwarves who could be doing something else. Of course, for particularly small wells, it may be of no concern. If the walking distance is quite far, (Like STUPIDLY far- your fortress would need to be a truly tangled maze for this to happen) the water may evaporate faster than dwarves can fill the well.

=== Piping water to your reservoir ===

If the water is not where you want to build the well, you can dig a tunnel or channel and/or otherwise create an {{L|aqueduct}} to bring it to where you want it. You should consider adding a door or floodgate somewhere near the water source so that you can dry out your tunnels for future projects, repair, or recovery of lost items.

Channels are open to the sky, and if not done properly, (taking advantage of some weird quirks in game functionality) they are subject to evaporation and freezing. As a result, they aren't normally an optimal method of moving water. Of course, there's nothing stopping you from digging a moat, then filling your well from that. Keep in mind, however, that open water frequently becomes a random hazard, as dwarves can be quite careless at times. If you do have open water set up somewhere, make sure your dwarves have some way out of it. You never know when a random goblin will kick your elite stonecrafter into your moat.

Digging tunnels, then, is generally a better way of moving water from place to place. You need to be careful about how you dig such aqueducts. Water can move through diagonal openings, so be sure to avoid flooding nearby rooms from accidental corner intersections. Make sure that any unnecessary access points to your aqueduct are properly sealed before letting the water flow.

The generally accepted method for digging an aqueduct has five steps.

1. Dig out the reservoir where you want to store the water.

2. From the reservoir, dig a tunnel up to your water source, but leave one space of earth to prevent water from flooding in and killing your dwarf.

3. Build a door or floodgate in the aqueduct, either at the end of the tunnel or at the entrance to the reservoir. Or both if you're fancy. (Doors are better, because the dwarf can walk through it if he builds it from the wrong side)

4. Connect the door/floodgate to a lever, and make sure any dwarves stuck in the tunnel are safely evicted.

5. Channel out the final tile from above, pull the lever. Let the water fill the reservoir, then pull the lever again, sealing the water source.

Keep in mind, when you command the lever to be pulled to end filling, it may take some time for an available dwarf to actually do it. Even then, there is some lag time between the lever pull and the action it causes. Finally, if your plug is at some point in the aqueduct, but not at the entrance of the reservoir, any water in the aqueduct above the water level in the reservoir will continue to pour in.

If you want to empty the aqueduct, use a similar method to build a drain to some reasonable dumping location, like a carvern. Make sure you can control it with levers, however, or it will constantly drain instead of filling your well.

== Safety ==

A well is not an obstructing object. That is to say, it doesn't stop things from passing through it's space. This is why wells can function through other wells, why water will flood out of them, why a (very) few monsters may be able to climb out through them if you're tremendously unlucky, and why dwarves and animals frequently fall in.

=== Flooding ===

More fortresses have fallen at the hands of a flooding well than they have to megabeasts, seiges or demons. If you are going to be shifting water around in any form other than buckets, be prepared for the worst.

There are several solutions to the flooding problem.

1. Overflow Drainage. At the top of a reservoir, dig a tunnel to drain water out the side, and have it dump out into some appropriate sump, like a cavern full of armok-knows-what.

2. Emergency auto-plug. You can make pressure plates sense water. If you set up a pressure plate beside your well, and connect it to a hatch or door blocking your reservoir, it will automatically seal the reservoir off from it's flow source, should the thing flood.

3. No Exits. The safest and easiest way to do it, is to dig out the reservoir, ''but not the opening for the well itself''. This way, you can fill the reservoir completely, and because there's nowhere for it to flood out to, it simply WON'T! Then you can seal off the reservoir at your leisure and dig the opening without concern! (Though not without caution. Make sure you turned the taps off first.)

=== Falling ===

The main problem is that while dwarves will normally walk around random holes in the ground, a well is treated as a "passable" tile. It's what allows them to use the well itself. However, this doesn't stop them from simply walking across it's space and falling through the hole it was built over. And because there's no such thing as buoyancy or water resistance yet, dwarves fall through water at the same rate they would through air. Meaning the deeper your reservoir, the bigger the splatter they make at the bottom. The following are all suggestions which decrease the likelyhood of anyone falling into a well. Keep in mind what you want to use the well for, however. There's little point of making a high value well if nobody will ever see it.

1. Put it somewhere out of the way. If your dwarves don't have any reason to path over it, they won't fall into it.

2. Surround it with restricted traffic control. Then dwarves will be less likely to actually walk over it, even if they do go through that area.

3. Don't make it a meeting hall, or people will throw parties at it, and dwarves don't really care about traffic, when they're on break/partying/nojob, because they aren't trying to find the fastest rout to their task, because they don't have a task. Also, animals like to ignore traffic control.

4. For the same reasons, don't put it ''in'' a meeting hall.

5. Don't put it in a barracks, or around other places where dwarves may be fighting for any reason, as dwarves don't look before they leap.

6. Making a well so it's at the end of a hall, with only one tile dwarves can stand on next to it, will dramatically decrease the chances of anything ever falling in. because then the only reason anything could have to go there, is to use the well, which does not involve standing ON the well.

7. Making a well's reservoir shallow, but wide, is also a good idea, I think. A wider reservoir holds a LOT of water, and takes a LONG time to dry out. If a reservoir is shallow, that means a dwarf will only fall one level or so, which can only cause momentary unconsciousness at the worst. That means your dwarves won't fall down the well, break their leg and drown.

8. Making an escape rout from a well is probably also a good idea.

=== Monsters ===

You don't need to worry too much about monsters crawling out of your well to gobble down your hairy friends these days, but that doesn't mean it's impossible. It all depends on what beasts may be lurking around- and how you build your well.

First off, if you're bucket-filling a well, you need to make sure that their inital water source is safe. Make sure it isn't full of crocodiles or carp. (Or other dangerous fishy things)

If you are draining water through an aqueduct, and you know there may be dangerous animals (Or even just unwanted regular animals) living in it, there is a way to stop them from wandering in. You can place upright bars or fortifications in the aqueduct. These allow water to pass through, but animals cannot. It has been observed that in very rare occasions, animal may be pushed through. If you're that concerned about it (Or have HORDES of angry crocodiles in your river) putting two stoppers in a row pretty much eliminates any chance of this happening.

Even if monsters do get into your well, they're rarely a genuine threat, and at worst can give your dwarves an unhappy thought by scaring them. However, if your reservoir is filled right to the brim, carp and other fish CAN attack your dwarves, just as they would from a river. Also, any amphibious creatures may be able to use an escape passage to make their way into your fortress and make a mess. (Keep in mind, zombified fish are amphibious) And, of course, anyone who falls into a well full of predators is pretty much doomed.

To prevent amphibians from getting out of your well, should they somehow get there, simply put a lockable hatch over the escape rout.

Finally, if you are drawing directly from a cavern lake, and have simply opened a hole in it's ceiling for the well, any flying creatures in the cavern may be able to use the well as an access point to your fortress. You could potentially construct a wall surrounding the pathway of the bucket. This would prevent flying creatures from entering, unless they are also capable of swimming. Do not forget the perils of dwarves falling into a well, however, falling into a cavern lake full of cave crocodiles is quite a dangerous risk.

== Above Ground ==

The previous sections focused mostly on subterranean wells and gravity-filling reservoirs. Now we need to consider the special circumstances of wells built at ground level, above ground level, and simply outdoors.

The main problem is that anything above what was ground level at embark is considered "above ground" and has different behavior, even if enclosed to be indoors. In particular, it will freeze and evaporate according to the temperature. This includes everything on level 0 and -1, unless there is something about them preventing the temperature from removing them, like rivers flowing faster than the water can evaporate out of them.

Enclosing the water, so that it is "indoors" will decrease the rate of evaporation, but there isn't much you can do to prevent water from freezing above ground. (There is a way, but if you're new, you may not enjoy the prospects of actually constructing it. See below in style and design.)

=== Outdoor Wells ===

There are plenty of good reasons to build a well outdoors. First and foremost, to be decorative or thematic. The wells don't necessarily need to be functional if this is your intent. But another use would be as a functional source for an outdoor meeting hall... Or in other words, a vomitorium. Because dwarves will clean themselves in a well, having one in such a vomitorium would just make things more efficient!

Of course, as with any outdoor meeting place, you need to be certain that it is a safe place, where goblins and giant eagles are unlikely to descend upon your sickly party-goers.

=== On The Level ===

Now, about ground level, or specifically, the place where "above ground" and "below ground" meet. Z-levels 0 and -1 on flat maps. If you are on a very cold or very hot map, any water open to the sky on these levels will freeze or evaporate very quickly. As said before, you can minimize this by simply roofing in the water and making it "indoors".

Also keep in mind the floor type. Murky pools, even when roofed over, will behave as though they are open to the sky. This is because murky pools, rivers, oceans, etc. all have a special floor tile which modifies the behavior of any water above it. Simply putting floor tiles on the basin of a murky pool can minimize evaporation, but it will eliminate rain refill.

If you dig a channel down to z-2, the water in it will not evaporate very quickly at all, as it's "under ground".

=== In the Sky ===

And now for the final type of well, and this one is very uncommon, you may wish to build a well high above ground. A well tower may indeed be a cool {{verify}}, though completely non-functional idea. Be aware what the environmental conditions are before you do this, of course, as the only real way of dealing with ice involves pumping magma up the tower as well.

In all honesty, a sky well would be built and function pretty much the same as a subterrranean well. The only diference is that it is very difficult to get the water up there. You need to build a pumpstack, lifting the water, level by level, pump by pump, up to your reservoir. And you need to lift the water to the top of your reservoir, as pumps will not pump upward naturally.

== Step by Step ==

A guide explaining the exact processes to go through when building the main well types and their infrastructure.

=== The Well Itself ===

So you're really new, you've read the well page, and you're still a little lost? Well, not to worry! We like our newbies! So we're gonna' show you exactly what needs to be done to just build a well from scratch. Keep in mind that a lot of this can be sped up by buying the materials at embark or from a caravan, rather than making them yourself. This is especially true with the restraint component.

Essentially, the components are: '''Rope | Bucket | Block | Mechanism'''

1. Start digging up stone. You need a dwarf with the miner skill enabled and a pickaxe. You need to dig through stone layers to get stone, as dirt yeilds nothing. The miner will leave rubble behind him. These are your primary building materials.

2. Start chopping down trees. You need a dwarf with the woodcutter skill enabled and a battle axe to do this. Each tree chopped down leaves a log. You'll need this for other components.

3. Set up an underground farm plot and cover it in water. It only needs a dusting of 1/7. Once it's been covered, drain it. It should now be muddy and will allow you to plant things on it. In order to plant seeds and make the farm plot, you'll need a dwarf with the grower skill enabled. Make sure you have pig tail seeds.

4. The pig tail seeds grow into pig tails, which can be processed into thread and turned into ropes for the well. Alternatively, if you run into metal ore, you can make a chain. But that process is even more complex, and there are plenty better uses for chains, so we'll stick with the rope.

5. Now you need a dwarf with the thresher skill enabled and a farmer's workshop set up. Set it to process plants. He will take any available pig tails and turn them into thread.

6. Next you need a weaver and a loom. The weaver will automatically turn thread into fabric at a loom. Yes, you need to make sheets of fabric into ropes, no it doesn't make much sense.

7. Now you need a dwarf with the clothier skill and a clothier's shop. Have the clothier make ropes. He'll use whatever fabric is available to him.

8. Have a mason make a stone block at the mason's workshop.

9. Have a carpenter make a bucket at the carpenter's workshop.

10. Have a mechanic make a mechanism at the mechanic's workshop.

11. Channel out a one-square hole in the ground. This is an example location, to show how a well is to be oriented to actually be built.

12. Build the well. It needs to be placed on the hole. Not in the hole, not above the hole, but directly on it. A well needs at least one adjacent floor tile, and must be built over empty space. Select your block, bucket, mechanism and rope. (Or chain if you went that rout)

13. Once that's done, the well designation will just sit there. You need a dwarf with the architect skill to design it. Once he's done, the appropriate worker will drop in and finish building the thing.

It takes 10 skilled dwarves and 6 workshops to build the base materials for one well from scratch. Of course, all of it's materials can simply be bought, speeding the process up a fair bit. However, keep in mind that all of it's components have value. Value which can be increased. A gem-encrusted masterpiece bucket with a gem encrusted masterpiece platinum chain, with a gem encrusted masterpiece mechanism, with legendary architectural skill and legendary construction, can be of insanely high value. As a result, you can engineer them to artificially increase the value of your fortress very quickly, once you have the infrastructure to do so.

=== Murky Pools ===

The pitfalls of using murky pools directly. We'll show you how to do it right and keep your dwarves smiling.

=== Brooks ===

Brooks are nice. We'll show you why!

=== Rivers ===

Rivers are different from brooks, in that they have things living in them and are a little more dangerous to be around.

=== Oceans ===

This explains the salinity glitch with oceans again, and discusses how to safely draw water from an ocean.

=== Aquifers ===

This section explains why the only thing aquifers are good for, are wells.

=== Flooded Caverns ===

This will discuss different methods of utilizing water from flooded caverns, specifically for the construction of a well, safely.

=== Water Falls ===

If you have a waterfall on your map, you are truly lucky. You can do so many cool things with waterfalls, it's enough to make a dwarf consider crying, just this once, maybe, if nobody's looking. But, here, we'll show some step-by-step ideas for how to use waterfalls to make awesome wells.

=== Reservoirs ===

So, you've decided you need to store water elsewhere, eh? Well, I can't blame you. Here's some discussion about the traits a reservoir can have, how to build them without trapping your dwarves, safety concerns, escape routs, and a discussion on effective filling methods.

=== Bucket Filling ===

This talks about how to go about bucket filling a well, the benefits of doing so, and the problems therein.

=== Aqueducts ===

This talks about how to build several generic aqueducts, drawing from different types of sources. Specifically, gravity-draining above-ground sources and pumping upward from subterranean sources.

=== Drainage ===

This talks about what drains are used for, why you might want them, and then how to build several types of functional drain mechanisms.

== Style and Design ==

This section discusses purely aesthetic and functional decisions people have made in the past with their wells, as well as advanced designs.

=== Fighting the Ice ===

So you have a frozen well, and you want to know how to keep it liquid do ya? You're going to need to build a heated reservoir.

First, have magma on your map. If you don't, dig deeper and be prepared for demons.

Next, you need some magma-safe materials. You'll need this to build floodgates and pumps.

Now, you need to pipe and pump the magma with the magma-safe pumping equipment. Be sure to use mechanical power for these, as dwarves are too likely to kill themselves.

The magma needs to be piped under your reservoir. That is to say, there needs to be just one floor tile between the two, just enough to keep them from touching and turning into an accidental obsidian factory.

The magma needs to be piped around under your water, it needs to keep on moving or the water will freeze again. That means it needs an infinite, cyclical flow.

And even if you get all of this built and working, it will only melt one level. Which means the reservoir can only be 1 level deep.

That's a lot of work to have an above-ground well in a frozen environment. Probably easier to melt a pool and drain it.

=== Ultimate Party Machine ===

It is possible to pour water through the mouth of a well from above. This frequently causes water to spray out in a mist, which pleases dwarves. If you power it, you could have a pump stack draw water from beneath the well and pour it back in from above, turning your fancy meeting hall into a FANCIER meeting hall! Throw in some platinum statues while you're at it.

=== Well Stacking ===

Have you ever needed to have more than one well on multiple z-levels and disliked the work of setting up multiple reservoirs? Well fret no more!

Because a well can function through the opening of another well, it's possible to stack well openings through z-levels! So long as they're all in a perfectly straight line above each other, and there's at least 3/7 tiles of water somewhere directly below them, they will all be perfectly functional!

Of course, if you go too far, this may become something of a safety concern, as dwarves would plummet mile after mile, through dozens of well openings before finally hitting the bottom.

=== Multitasking Wells ===

Because wells aren't actually USED all that often, and are usually more valuable as decorations, there isn't really any reason to keep it's reservoir completely full all the time. So, what can you do with a giant bucket of water in the middle of your fortress? Well, luckily, there are a few other reasons you could have for piping water around.

First, you need to "irrigate" underground floors before you can actually farm on them. Instead of making a separate, elaborate irrigation system for just one use, (To my knowledge, mud doesn't dry) why not just drain it out of your well?

You could also use your well as a water reservoir for an obsidian factory. Fill a chamber with a single layer of magma, then pour your well's contents over it!

You could use your well to dispose of unwanted life forms, such as siegers, elves, goblins, nobles and other miscellaneous things that wandered into your cage traps. (This only works on non-amphibious creatures)

=== The Dwarven Toilet ===

I built this in an experiment. At the top of the reservoir is a platform with a pressure plate on it. When the pressure plate senses 5/7 water, it triggers, closing the fill pipe, and opening the drain. So, when you pull the lever to fill the thing, it fills up to the top, then drains. Just like a giant toilet. I have not found any functional use for this. In all honesty, it was a simple accident I made, connecting the pressure plate to the drain as well as the plug. But, hey, what the heck, I made a giant toilet. There ya' go. Perhaps you could use this to get rid of the crud that accumulates in a well as dwarves clean themselves in it?

v0.31:Well guide

2010-12-03T07:22:20Z

RadGH: /* Monsters */

{{quality|Exceptional|04:49, 17 October 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
''This guide assumes you've read the main article on '''{{L|well}}s''' and are familiar with the basic information found in that article, of what a well does and what is required to build one.''

A well can be vital to any fortress, but deciding that you need one and building one are two different things. Draining water from the surface can flood your fortress if you aren't careful, and building a well only to see the water source dry up or freeze is beyond frustrating. This guide will walk you through a number of different situations, and explain solutions that have been found for these problems.
If you are looking for the step by step guide: [http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/DF2010:Well_guide#Step_by_Step]

== Why Build a Well? ==

Honestly, not every fortress NEEDS a well. But they all need some form of safe ''water source'' to bring water to patients and prisoners. If they do not have this and you find yourself in a siege with six injured dwarves, you're in trouble... But a hole full of water can be just as good for that as a well.

=== Why You Might Not ===

1. Wells are currently a little wonky, like everything else, but in a not-so-friendly way. There are plenty of opportunities to flood a fortress through a well, and even if you don't, dwarves and animals might still occasionally fall in.

2. They take a lot of time and effort to construct, especially when compared to alternatives.

3. Because of the way wells are, a single hole in a flat ceiling, it makes it more difficult for creatures to get out, should they find themselves in your water source.

4. Technically, a trench full of water can be designated as a water source just as easily as a well, and dwarves will sanely path around such a thing, as well as bathe in it more easily.

5. If you do make a shallow pool as a water source, and have a meeting hall designated therein, unoccupied dwarves will hang out in the water, gaining swiming skill.

=== Why You Might ===

1. While a trench full of water can be used as a water source, a well can draw water from a source that is 30+ levels below. Also, a trench water source can only be one level deep, dwarves will not draw water from any level deeper than that. A well will.

2. Wells can be made to have extraordinarily high value, due to the various skills and materials, each with their own quality levels, which go into it's construction. Thus, as the center piece for a meeting room, even if they have no water, wells can be very handy in making dwarves very happy.

3. As far as the well itself goes, they take up very little space in your actual fortress. With a water-filled channel, the reservoir is equivalent to the floor space occupied.

4. This is a glitch, but wells are the easiest method for making salt water drinkable. Wells will ignore salinity and allow dwarves to drink salt water directly from it's source without a glitch. So long as it isn't murky.

== Choosing a Location ==

Once you've decided it's time to construct a well, you need to consider where the well needs to be. It helps if you've been planning for this while building the rest of your fortress, and have made room for it.

You want a well central to your dwarfs, so they'll all get good thoughts from seeing it, and near any {{L|Health_care_(labor)|hospital}} beds you have, but you want it off the main traffic routs. You can have more than one well, which solves that problem, but raises the one of engineering water to feed them all. If it's indoors (or behind walls), then there's little threat from {{L|carp}}, {{L|goblins}}, or {{L|animal}}s, and it can provide a safe source of drinking water during a {{L|siege}}.

Depending on your start location, you may already have a pre-existing water source, such as a flooded cavern, which you can just build a well over. Or, as is usually the case, you may need to transport water from some other location to where you want your well to be. This is where things get complicated.

== Water sources ==

A well needs a water source of at least 3/7 depth, at least 1 {{L|z-level}} somewhere directly below it's opening, with no obstructions between itself and said water. Pre-existing water is safe because it's the most predictable - what you see is what you've got, no surprises. You can instead use dwarven engineering to bring water from a distant source to beneath your well, with a safety factor based on your experience and the complexity of the project. (See {{L|flood}}.)

The important part about the well is to make sure that you don't create a situation where the water will {{L|flood}} your fortress, due to {{L|Water_pressure|pressure}} from a source at a higher level. If the water is stable before you build the well above it, it will be safe (unless your dwarfs change things), but if you are introducing a flow, make sure you understand how pressure works and will not fall victim to its surprises. (See {{L|Water_pressure|pressure}}.)

=== Pre-existing sources ===

A {{L|brook}}, {{L|river}}, {{L|murky pool}}, or {{L|cavern}} lakes can provide water under a well. The surface of a brook tile will have to be channeled out, but it works just fine. Murky pools can dry up in warm seasons, and the well will be useless until they refill from {{L|rain}}. On hot maps, this may never happen - it's quite possible to see your murky pools (which are always full at {{L|embark}}) {{L|evaporate}} away before you ever get a chance to build a well.

Using stagnant water directly from murky pools or brooks is not optimal, as it will give dwarves negative thoughts, "Has complained about the nasty water lately". To avoid this, moving water from these places on to floor tiles that are not identified as riverbeds or ponds, and building a well over ''that'' will work just fine, so long as the final depth is 3/7 or greater.

=== {{L|Aquifer|Aquifers}} ===

If you have an aquifer, just channel a 1x1 square in any open stretch of floor above it and build the well. It will automatically fill and never flood. You'll have other construction projects to worry about.

=== {{L|Ocean|Oceans}} ===

Oceans and aquifers near oceans carry salty water. This is normally unpleasant to dwarves, but for some reason, drinking that water through a well is perfectly fine. This is a bug. But, if you really want to, it is possible to desalinate water by running it through a pump, (This is ''also'' a bug.) BUT, if that water touches any natural surfaces it will turn salty again. The floor, walls and ceiling of the aqueduct and reservoir all need to be constructed.

=== {{L|Reservoir|Reservoirs}} ===

If you need to move water to your well, you need to dig/build a reservoir. A reservoir is basically a big hole intended for the storage of large quantities of water.

When digging a reservoir, you need to consider your needs and the space you have available. Do you really need a 20x20x20 reservoir, holding 56,000 tiles of water, requiring 560,000 uses of the well to fully dry up? Frequently, in well-managed fortresses, wells are really only used for the care of sick or imprisoned dwarves and animals. As a result, it doesn't really need to be anything special, unless it's a meeting hall, in which case dwarves will drink from it at random.

Another consideration is safety. (See Below) Specifically, dwarves can fall into wells. You may wish to place some sort of escape rout from the well, should anyone do so. At the least, this just needs to be a staircase going up the side of the well to the surface. The shorter the distance they need to go, the better off they are. Keep in mind, of course, that if any wildlife is able to access your reservoir, and if any of them are able to leave the water, they may wander into your fortress through the escape rout. If they're particularly malicious, they may even path their way in to attack your dwarves.

If you are filling the reservoir by aqueduct, consider the fill point. If you are using only gravity to fill the well, but the water needs to flow up to do so, you may experience problems when it comes time to refill your well. Specifically, water floods upwards into empty space very easily, but for some reason doesn't like to flood through still water. Thus, it may be more appropriate to have the reservoir fill from it's top, though keep in mind that this is a very fast fill method and can flood a bit if you aren't watching and have a small reservoir. (As a side note on that, it is possible to fill a well by pouring water directly through the well opening itself)

Finally, you may find some circumstance where you'd wish to make changes to the well. For example, building a statue in it's reservoir, or recovering a lost loved one who fell in and cracked his skull open. In these instances, you may wish to construct a manual drain. All it requires is a hatch or floodgate at the bottom of the well, connected to a lever, covering a tunnel leading to an appropriate dump site... Like your subterranean farming operation. Or your obsidian factory. Or a room full of captured <s>nobles</s> goblins. If you already have a drain for the aqueduct, you can easily connect the two.

== Filling the Well ==

If you've had to construct a well separate from a pre-existing water source, you need to move that water to the well itself. There's two main ways to go about this.

=== Bucket Filling a Well ===

If you designate your well as a pit/pond and have empty buckets, dwarves will fill the well manually. Keep in mind that this is slow, time-consuming and occupies dwarves who could be doing something else. Of course, for particularly small wells, it may be of no concern. If the walking distance is quite far, (Like STUPIDLY far- your fortress would need to be a truly tangled maze for this to happen) the water may evaporate faster than dwarves can fill the well.

=== Piping water to your reservoir ===

If the water is not where you want to build the well, you can dig a tunnel or channel and/or otherwise create an {{L|aqueduct}} to bring it to where you want it. You should consider adding a door or floodgate somewhere near the water source so that you can dry out your tunnels for future projects, repair, or recovery of lost items.

Channels are open to the sky, and if not done properly, (taking advantage of some weird quirks in game functionality) they are subject to evaporation and freezing. As a result, they aren't normally an optimal method of moving water. Of course, there's nothing stopping you from digging a moat, then filling your well from that. Keep in mind, however, that open water frequently becomes a random hazard, as dwarves can be quite careless at times. If you do have open water set up somewhere, make sure your dwarves have some way out of it. You never know when a random goblin will kick your elite stonecrafter into your moat.

Digging tunnels, then, is generally a better way of moving water from place to place. You need to be careful about how you dig such aqueducts. Water can move through diagonal openings, so be sure to avoid flooding nearby rooms from accidental corner intersections. Make sure that any unnecessary access points to your aqueduct are properly sealed before letting the water flow.

The generally accepted method for digging an aqueduct has five steps.

1. Dig out the reservoir where you want to store the water.

2. From the reservoir, dig a tunnel up to your water source, but leave one space of earth to prevent water from flooding in and killing your dwarf.

3. Build a door or floodgate in the aqueduct, either at the end of the tunnel or at the entrance to the reservoir. Or both if you're fancy. (Doors are better, because the dwarf can walk through it if he builds it from the wrong side)

4. Connect the door/floodgate to a lever, and make sure any dwarves stuck in the tunnel are safely evicted.

5. Channel out the final tile from above, pull the lever. Let the water fill the reservoir, then pull the lever again, sealing the water source.

Keep in mind, when you command the lever to be pulled to end filling, it may take some time for an available dwarf to actually do it. Even then, there is some lag time between the lever pull and the action it causes. Finally, if your plug is at some point in the aqueduct, but not at the entrance of the reservoir, any water in the aqueduct above the water level in the reservoir will continue to pour in.

If you want to empty the aqueduct, use a similar method to build a drain to some reasonable dumping location, like a carvern. Make sure you can control it with levers, however, or it will constantly drain instead of filling your well.

== Safety ==

A well is not an obstructing object. That is to say, it doesn't stop things from passing through it's space. This is why wells can function through other wells, why water will flood out of them, why a (very) few monsters may be able to climb out through them if you're tremendously unlucky, and why dwarves and animals frequently fall in.

=== Flooding ===

More fortresses have fallen at the hands of a flooding well than they have to megabeasts, seiges or demons. If you are going to be shifting water around in any form other than buckets, be prepared for the worst.

There are several solutions to the flooding problem.

1. Overflow Drainage. At the top of a reservoir, dig a tunnel to drain water out the side, and have it dump out into some appropriate sump, like a cavern full of armok-knows-what.

2. Emergency auto-plug. You can make pressure plates sense water. If you set up a pressure plate beside your well, and connect it to a hatch or door blocking your reservoir, it will automatically seal the reservoir off from it's flow source, should the thing flood.

3. No Exits. The safest and easiest way to do it, is to dig out the reservoir, ''but not the opening for the well itself''. This way, you can fill the reservoir completely, and because there's nowhere for it to flood out to, it simply WON'T! Then you can seal off the reservoir at your leisure and dig the opening without concern! (Though not without caution. Make sure you turned the taps off first.)

=== Falling ===

The main problem is that while dwarves will normally walk around random holes in the ground, a well is treated as a "passable" tile. It's what allows them to use the well itself. However, this doesn't stop them from simply walking across it's space and falling through the hole it was built over. And because there's no such thing as buoyancy or water resistance yet, dwarves fall through water at the same rate they would through air. Meaning the deeper your reservoir, the bigger the splatter they make at the bottom. The following are all suggestions which decrease the likelyhood of anyone falling into a well. Keep in mind what you want to use the well for, however. There's little point of making a high value well if nobody will ever see it.

1. Put it somewhere out of the way. If your dwarves don't have any reason to path over it, they won't fall into it.

2. Surround it with restricted traffic control. Then dwarves will be less likely to actually walk over it, even if they do go through that area.

3. Don't make it a meeting hall, or people will throw parties at it, and dwarves don't really care about traffic, when they're on break/partying/nojob, because they aren't trying to find the fastest rout to their task, because they don't have a task. Also, animals like to ignore traffic control.

4. For the same reasons, don't put it ''in'' a meeting hall.

5. Don't put it in a barracks, or around other places where dwarves may be fighting for any reason, as dwarves don't look before they leap.

6. Making a well so it's at the end of a hall, with only one tile dwarves can stand on next to it, will dramatically decrease the chances of anything ever falling in. because then the only reason anything could have to go there, is to use the well, which does not involve standing ON the well.

7. Making a well's reservoir shallow, but wide, is also a good idea, I think. A wider reservoir holds a LOT of water, and takes a LONG time to dry out. If a reservoir is shallow, that means a dwarf will only fall one level or so, which can only cause momentary unconsciousness at the worst. That means your dwarves won't fall down the well, break their leg and drown.

8. Making an escape rout from a well is probably also a good idea.

=== Monsters ===

You don't need to worry too much about monsters crawling out of your well to gobble down your hairy friends these days, but that doesn't mean it's impossible. It all depends on what beasts may be lurking around- and how you build your well.

First off, if you're bucket-filling a well, you need to make sure that their inital water source is safe. Make sure it isn't full of crocodiles or carp. (Or other dangerous fishy things)

If you are draining water through an aqueduct, and you know there may be dangerous animals (Or even just unwanted regular animals) living in it, there is a way to stop them from wandering in. You can place upright bars or fortifications in the aqueduct. These allow water to pass through, but animals cannot. It has been observed that in very rare occasions, animal may be pushed through. If you're that concerned about it (Or have HORDES of angry crocodiles in your river) putting two stoppers in a row pretty much eliminates any chance of this happening.

Even if monsters do get into your well, they're rarely a genuine threat, and at worst can give your dwarves an unhappy thought by scaring them. However, if your reservoir is filled right to the brim, carp and other fish CAN attack your dwarves, just as they would from a river. Also, any amphibious creatures may be able to use an escape passage to make their way into your fortress and make a mess. (Keep in mind, zombified fish are amphibious) And, of course, anyone who falls into a well full of predators is pretty much doomed.

To prevent amphibians from getting out of your well, should they somehow get there, simply put a lockable hatch over the escape rout.

Finally, if you are drawing directly from a cavern lake, and have simply opened a hole in it's ceiling for the well, any flying creatures in the cavern may be able to use the well as an access point to your fortress. You could potentially construct a wall surrounding the pathway of the bucket. This would prevent flying creatures from entering, unless they are also capable of swimming. Do not forget the perils of dwarves falling into a well, however, falling into a cavern lake full of cave crocodiles is quite a dangerous risk.

== Above Ground ==

The previous sections focused mostly on subterranean wells and gravity-filling reservoirs. Now we need to consider the special circumstances of wells built at ground level, above ground level, and simply outdoors.

The main problem is that anything above what was ground level at embark is considered "above ground" and has different behavior, even if enclosed to be indoors. In particular, it will freeze and evaporate according to the temperature. This includes everything on level 0 and -1, unless there is something about them preventing the temperature from removing them, like rivers flowing faster than the water can evaporate out of them.

Enclosing the water, so that it is "indoors" will decrease the rate of evaporation, but there isn't much you can do to prevent water from freezing above ground. (There is a way, but if you're new, you may not enjoy the prospects of actually constructing it. See below in style and design.)

=== Outdoor Wells ===

There are plenty of good reasons to build a well outdoors. First and foremost, to be decorative or thematic. The wells don't necessarily need to be functional if this is your intent. But another use would be as a functional source for an outdoor meeting hall... Or in other words, a vomitorium. Because dwarves will clean themselves in a well, having one in such a vomitorium would just make things more efficient!

Of course, as with any outdoor meeting place, you need to be certain that it is a safe place, where goblins and giant eagles are unlikely to descend upon your sickly party-goers.

=== On The Level ===

Now, about ground level, or specifically, the place where "above ground" and "below ground" meet. Z-levels 0 and -1 on flat maps. If you are on a very cold or very hot map, any water open to the sky on these levels will freeze or evaporate very quickly. As said before, you can minimize this by simply roofing in the water and making it "indoors".

Also keep in mind the floor type. Murky pools, even when roofed over, will behave as though they are open to the sky. This is because murky pools, rivers, oceans, etc. all have a special floor tile which modifies the behavior of any water above it. Simply putting floor tiles on the basin of a murky pool can minimize evaporation, but it will eliminate rain refill.

If you dig a channel down to z-2, the water in it will not evaporate very quickly at all, as it's "under ground".

=== In the Sky ===

And now for the final type of well, and this one is very uncommon, you may wish to build a well high above ground. A well tower may indeed be a cool, though completely non-functional idea. Be aware what the environmental conditions are before you do this, of course, as the only real way of dealing with ice involves pumping magma up the tower as well.

In all honesty, a sky well would be built and function pretty much the same as a subterrranean well. The only diference is that it is very difficult to get the water up there. You need to build a pumpstack, lifting the water, level by level, pump by pump, up to your reservoir. And you need to lift the water to the top of your reservoir, as pumps will not pump upward naturally.

== Step by Step ==

A guide explaining the exact processes to go through when building the main well types and their infrastructure.

=== The Well Itself ===

So you're really new, you've read the well page, and you're still a little lost? Well, not to worry! We like our newbies! So we're gonna' show you exactly what needs to be done to just build a well from scratch. Keep in mind that a lot of this can be sped up by buying the materials at embark or from a caravan, rather than making them yourself. This is especially true with the restraint component.

Essentially, the components are: '''Rope | Bucket | Block | Mechanism'''

1. Start digging up stone. You need a dwarf with the miner skill enabled and a pickaxe. You need to dig through stone layers to get stone, as dirt yeilds nothing. The miner will leave rubble behind him. These are your primary building materials.

2. Start chopping down trees. You need a dwarf with the woodcutter skill enabled and a battle axe to do this. Each tree chopped down leaves a log. You'll need this for other components.

3. Set up an underground farm plot and cover it in water. It only needs a dusting of 1/7. Once it's been covered, drain it. It should now be muddy and will allow you to plant things on it. In order to plant seeds and make the farm plot, you'll need a dwarf with the grower skill enabled. Make sure you have pig tail seeds.

4. The pig tail seeds grow into pig tails, which can be processed into thread and turned into ropes for the well. Alternatively, if you run into metal ore, you can make a chain. But that process is even more complex, and there are plenty better uses for chains, so we'll stick with the rope.

5. Now you need a dwarf with the thresher skill enabled and a farmer's workshop set up. Set it to process plants. He will take any available pig tails and turn them into thread.

6. Next you need a weaver and a loom. The weaver will automatically turn thread into fabric at a loom. Yes, you need to make sheets of fabric into ropes, no it doesn't make much sense.

7. Now you need a dwarf with the clothier skill and a clothier's shop. Have the clothier make ropes. He'll use whatever fabric is available to him.

8. Have a mason make a stone block at the mason's workshop.

9. Have a carpenter make a bucket at the carpenter's workshop.

10. Have a mechanic make a mechanism at the mechanic's workshop.

11. Channel out a one-square hole in the ground. This is an example location, to show how a well is to be oriented to actually be built.

12. Build the well. It needs to be placed on the hole. Not in the hole, not above the hole, but directly on it. A well needs at least one adjacent floor tile, and must be built over empty space. Select your block, bucket, mechanism and rope. (Or chain if you went that rout)

13. Once that's done, the well designation will just sit there. You need a dwarf with the architect skill to design it. Once he's done, the appropriate worker will drop in and finish building the thing.

It takes 10 skilled dwarves and 6 workshops to build the base materials for one well from scratch. Of course, all of it's materials can simply be bought, speeding the process up a fair bit. However, keep in mind that all of it's components have value. Value which can be increased. A gem-encrusted masterpiece bucket with a gem encrusted masterpiece platinum chain, with a gem encrusted masterpiece mechanism, with legendary architectural skill and legendary construction, can be of insanely high value. As a result, you can engineer them to artificially increase the value of your fortress very quickly, once you have the infrastructure to do so.

=== Murky Pools ===

The pitfalls of using murky pools directly. We'll show you how to do it right and keep your dwarves smiling.

=== Brooks ===

Brooks are nice. We'll show you why!

=== Rivers ===

Rivers are different from brooks, in that they have things living in them and are a little more dangerous to be around.

=== Oceans ===

This explains the salinity glitch with oceans again, and discusses how to safely draw water from an ocean.

=== Aquifers ===

This section explains why the only thing aquifers are good for, are wells.

=== Flooded Caverns ===

This will discuss different methods of utilizing water from flooded caverns, specifically for the construction of a well, safely.

=== Water Falls ===

If you have a waterfall on your map, you are truly lucky. You can do so many cool things with waterfalls, it's enough to make a dwarf consider crying, just this once, maybe, if nobody's looking. But, here, we'll show some step-by-step ideas for how to use waterfalls to make awesome wells.

=== Reservoirs ===

So, you've decided you need to store water elsewhere, eh? Well, I can't blame you. Here's some discussion about the traits a reservoir can have, how to build them without trapping your dwarves, safety concerns, escape routs, and a discussion on effective filling methods.

=== Bucket Filling ===

This talks about how to go about bucket filling a well, the benefits of doing so, and the problems therein.

=== Aqueducts ===

This talks about how to build several generic aqueducts, drawing from different types of sources. Specifically, gravity-draining above-ground sources and pumping upward from subterranean sources.

=== Drainage ===

This talks about what drains are used for, why you might want them, and then how to build several types of functional drain mechanisms.

== Style and Design ==

This section discusses purely aesthetic and functional decisions people have made in the past with their wells, as well as advanced designs.

=== Fighting the Ice ===

So you have a frozen well, and you want to know how to keep it liquid do ya? You're going to need to build a heated reservoir.

First, have magma on your map. If you don't, dig deeper and be prepared for demons.

Next, you need some magma-safe materials. You'll need this to build floodgates and pumps.

Now, you need to pipe and pump the magma with the magma-safe pumping equipment. Be sure to use mechanical power for these, as dwarves are too likely to kill themselves.

The magma needs to be piped under your reservoir. That is to say, there needs to be just one floor tile between the two, just enough to keep them from touching and turning into an accidental obsidian factory.

The magma needs to be piped around under your water, it needs to keep on moving or the water will freeze again. That means it needs an infinite, cyclical flow.

And even if you get all of this built and working, it will only melt one level. Which means the reservoir can only be 1 level deep.

That's a lot of work to have an above-ground well in a frozen environment. Probably easier to melt a pool and drain it.

=== Ultimate Party Machine ===

It is possible to pour water through the mouth of a well from above. This frequently causes water to spray out in a mist, which pleases dwarves. If you power it, you could have a pump stack draw water from beneath the well and pour it back in from above, turning your fancy meeting hall into a FANCIER meeting hall! Throw in some platinum statues while you're at it.

=== Well Stacking ===

Have you ever needed to have more than one well on multiple z-levels and disliked the work of setting up multiple reservoirs? Well fret no more!

Because a well can function through the opening of another well, it's possible to stack well openings through z-levels! So long as they're all in a perfectly straight line above each other, and there's at least 3/7 tiles of water somewhere directly below them, they will all be perfectly functional!

Of course, if you go too far, this may become something of a safety concern, as dwarves would plummet mile after mile, through dozens of well openings before finally hitting the bottom.

=== Multitasking Wells ===

Because wells aren't actually USED all that often, and are usually more valuable as decorations, there isn't really any reason to keep it's reservoir completely full all the time. So, what can you do with a giant bucket of water in the middle of your fortress? Well, luckily, there are a few other reasons you could have for piping water around.

First, you need to "irrigate" underground floors before you can actually farm on them. Instead of making a separate, elaborate irrigation system for just one use, (To my knowledge, mud doesn't dry) why not just drain it out of your well?

You could also use your well as a water reservoir for an obsidian factory. Fill a chamber with a single layer of magma, then pour your well's contents over it!

You could use your well to dispose of unwanted life forms, such as siegers, elves, goblins, nobles and other miscellaneous things that wandered into your cage traps. (This only works on non-amphibious creatures)

=== The Dwarven Toilet ===

I built this in an experiment. At the top of the reservoir is a platform with a pressure plate on it. When the pressure plate senses 5/7 water, it triggers, closing the fill pipe, and opening the drain. So, when you pull the lever to fill the thing, it fills up to the top, then drains. Just like a giant toilet. I have not found any functional use for this. In all honesty, it was a simple accident I made, connecting the pressure plate to the drain as well as the plug. But, hey, what the heck, I made a giant toilet. There ya' go. Perhaps you could use this to get rid of the crud that accumulates in a well as dwarves clean themselves in it?

v0.31:Well guide

2010-12-03T07:14:06Z

RadGH: /* Pre-existing sources */

{{quality|Exceptional|04:49, 17 October 2010 (UTC)}}{{av}}
''This guide assumes you've read the main article on '''{{L|well}}s''' and are familiar with the basic information found in that article, of what a well does and what is required to build one.''

A well can be vital to any fortress, but deciding that you need one and building one are two different things. Draining water from the surface can flood your fortress if you aren't careful, and building a well only to see the water source dry up or freeze is beyond frustrating. This guide will walk you through a number of different situations, and explain solutions that have been found for these problems.
If you are looking for the step by step guide: [http://df.magmawiki.com/index.php/DF2010:Well_guide#Step_by_Step]

== Why Build a Well? ==

Honestly, not every fortress NEEDS a well. But they all need some form of safe ''water source'' to bring water to patients and prisoners. If they do not have this and you find yourself in a siege with six injured dwarves, you're in trouble... But a hole full of water can be just as good for that as a well.

=== Why You Might Not ===

1. Wells are currently a little wonky, like everything else, but in a not-so-friendly way. There are plenty of opportunities to flood a fortress through a well, and even if you don't, dwarves and animals might still occasionally fall in.

2. They take a lot of time and effort to construct, especially when compared to alternatives.

3. Because of the way wells are, a single hole in a flat ceiling, it makes it more difficult for creatures to get out, should they find themselves in your water source.

4. Technically, a trench full of water can be designated as a water source just as easily as a well, and dwarves will sanely path around such a thing, as well as bathe in it more easily.

5. If you do make a shallow pool as a water source, and have a meeting hall designated therein, unoccupied dwarves will hang out in the water, gaining swiming skill.

=== Why You Might ===

1. While a trench full of water can be used as a water source, a well can draw water from a source that is 30+ levels below. Also, a trench water source can only be one level deep, dwarves will not draw water from any level deeper than that. A well will.

2. Wells can be made to have extraordinarily high value, due to the various skills and materials, each with their own quality levels, which go into it's construction. Thus, as the center piece for a meeting room, even if they have no water, wells can be very handy in making dwarves very happy.

3. As far as the well itself goes, they take up very little space in your actual fortress. With a water-filled channel, the reservoir is equivalent to the floor space occupied.

4. This is a glitch, but wells are the easiest method for making salt water drinkable. Wells will ignore salinity and allow dwarves to drink salt water directly from it's source without a glitch. So long as it isn't murky.

== Choosing a Location ==

Once you've decided it's time to construct a well, you need to consider where the well needs to be. It helps if you've been planning for this while building the rest of your fortress, and have made room for it.

You want a well central to your dwarfs, so they'll all get good thoughts from seeing it, and near any {{L|Health_care_(labor)|hospital}} beds you have, but you want it off the main traffic routs. You can have more than one well, which solves that problem, but raises the one of engineering water to feed them all. If it's indoors (or behind walls), then there's little threat from {{L|carp}}, {{L|goblins}}, or {{L|animal}}s, and it can provide a safe source of drinking water during a {{L|siege}}.

Depending on your start location, you may already have a pre-existing water source, such as a flooded cavern, which you can just build a well over. Or, as is usually the case, you may need to transport water from some other location to where you want your well to be. This is where things get complicated.

== Water sources ==

A well needs a water source of at least 3/7 depth, at least 1 {{L|z-level}} somewhere directly below it's opening, with no obstructions between itself and said water. Pre-existing water is safe because it's the most predictable - what you see is what you've got, no surprises. You can instead use dwarven engineering to bring water from a distant source to beneath your well, with a safety factor based on your experience and the complexity of the project. (See {{L|flood}}.)

The important part about the well is to make sure that you don't create a situation where the water will {{L|flood}} your fortress, due to {{L|Water_pressure|pressure}} from a source at a higher level. If the water is stable before you build the well above it, it will be safe (unless your dwarfs change things), but if you are introducing a flow, make sure you understand how pressure works and will not fall victim to its surprises. (See {{L|Water_pressure|pressure}}.)

=== Pre-existing sources ===

A {{L|brook}}, {{L|river}}, {{L|murky pool}}, or {{L|cavern}} lakes can provide water under a well. The surface of a brook tile will have to be channeled out, but it works just fine. Murky pools can dry up in warm seasons, and the well will be useless until they refill from {{L|rain}}. On hot maps, this may never happen - it's quite possible to see your murky pools (which are always full at {{L|embark}}) {{L|evaporate}} away before you ever get a chance to build a well.

Using stagnant water directly from murky pools or brooks is not optimal, as it will give dwarves negative thoughts, "Has complained about the nasty water lately". To avoid this, moving water from these places on to floor tiles that are not identified as riverbeds or ponds, and building a well over ''that'' will work just fine, so long as the final depth is 3/7 or greater.

=== {{L|Aquifer|Aquifers}} ===

If you have an aquifer, just channel a 1x1 square in any open stretch of floor above it and build the well. It will automatically fill and never flood. You'll have other construction projects to worry about.

=== {{L|Ocean|Oceans}} ===

Oceans and aquifers near oceans carry salty water. This is normally unpleasant to dwarves, but for some reason, drinking that water through a well is perfectly fine. This is a bug. But, if you really want to, it is possible to desalinate water by running it through a pump, (This is ''also'' a bug.) BUT, if that water touches any natural surfaces it will turn salty again. The floor, walls and ceiling of the aqueduct and reservoir all need to be constructed.

=== {{L|Reservoir|Reservoirs}} ===

If you need to move water to your well, you need to dig/build a reservoir. A reservoir is basically a big hole intended for the storage of large quantities of water.

When digging a reservoir, you need to consider your needs and the space you have available. Do you really need a 20x20x20 reservoir, holding 56,000 tiles of water, requiring 560,000 uses of the well to fully dry up? Frequently, in well-managed fortresses, wells are really only used for the care of sick or imprisoned dwarves and animals. As a result, it doesn't really need to be anything special, unless it's a meeting hall, in which case dwarves will drink from it at random.

Another consideration is safety. (See Below) Specifically, dwarves can fall into wells. You may wish to place some sort of escape rout from the well, should anyone do so. At the least, this just needs to be a staircase going up the side of the well to the surface. The shorter the distance they need to go, the better off they are. Keep in mind, of course, that if any wildlife is able to access your reservoir, and if any of them are able to leave the water, they may wander into your fortress through the escape rout. If they're particularly malicious, they may even path their way in to attack your dwarves.

If you are filling the reservoir by aqueduct, consider the fill point. If you are using only gravity to fill the well, but the water needs to flow up to do so, you may experience problems when it comes time to refill your well. Specifically, water floods upwards into empty space very easily, but for some reason doesn't like to flood through still water. Thus, it may be more appropriate to have the reservoir fill from it's top, though keep in mind that this is a very fast fill method and can flood a bit if you aren't watching and have a small reservoir. (As a side note on that, it is possible to fill a well by pouring water directly through the well opening itself)

Finally, you may find some circumstance where you'd wish to make changes to the well. For example, building a statue in it's reservoir, or recovering a lost loved one who fell in and cracked his skull open. In these instances, you may wish to construct a manual drain. All it requires is a hatch or floodgate at the bottom of the well, connected to a lever, covering a tunnel leading to an appropriate dump site... Like your subterranean farming operation. Or your obsidian factory. Or a room full of captured <s>nobles</s> goblins. If you already have a drain for the aqueduct, you can easily connect the two.

== Filling the Well ==

If you've had to construct a well separate from a pre-existing water source, you need to move that water to the well itself. There's two main ways to go about this.

=== Bucket Filling a Well ===

If you designate your well as a pit/pond and have empty buckets, dwarves will fill the well manually. Keep in mind that this is slow, time-consuming and occupies dwarves who could be doing something else. Of course, for particularly small wells, it may be of no concern. If the walking distance is quite far, (Like STUPIDLY far- your fortress would need to be a truly tangled maze for this to happen) the water may evaporate faster than dwarves can fill the well.

=== Piping water to your reservoir ===

If the water is not where you want to build the well, you can dig a tunnel or channel and/or otherwise create an {{L|aqueduct}} to bring it to where you want it. You should consider adding a door or floodgate somewhere near the water source so that you can dry out your tunnels for future projects, repair, or recovery of lost items.

Channels are open to the sky, and if not done properly, (taking advantage of some weird quirks in game functionality) they are subject to evaporation and freezing. As a result, they aren't normally an optimal method of moving water. Of course, there's nothing stopping you from digging a moat, then filling your well from that. Keep in mind, however, that open water frequently becomes a random hazard, as dwarves can be quite careless at times. If you do have open water set up somewhere, make sure your dwarves have some way out of it. You never know when a random goblin will kick your elite stonecrafter into your moat.

Digging tunnels, then, is generally a better way of moving water from place to place. You need to be careful about how you dig such aqueducts. Water can move through diagonal openings, so be sure to avoid flooding nearby rooms from accidental corner intersections. Make sure that any unnecessary access points to your aqueduct are properly sealed before letting the water flow.

The generally accepted method for digging an aqueduct has five steps.

1. Dig out the reservoir where you want to store the water.

2. From the reservoir, dig a tunnel up to your water source, but leave one space of earth to prevent water from flooding in and killing your dwarf.

3. Build a door or floodgate in the aqueduct, either at the end of the tunnel or at the entrance to the reservoir. Or both if you're fancy. (Doors are better, because the dwarf can walk through it if he builds it from the wrong side)

4. Connect the door/floodgate to a lever, and make sure any dwarves stuck in the tunnel are safely evicted.

5. Channel out the final tile from above, pull the lever. Let the water fill the reservoir, then pull the lever again, sealing the water source.

Keep in mind, when you command the lever to be pulled to end filling, it may take some time for an available dwarf to actually do it. Even then, there is some lag time between the lever pull and the action it causes. Finally, if your plug is at some point in the aqueduct, but not at the entrance of the reservoir, any water in the aqueduct above the water level in the reservoir will continue to pour in.

If you want to empty the aqueduct, use a similar method to build a drain to some reasonable dumping location, like a carvern. Make sure you can control it with levers, however, or it will constantly drain instead of filling your well.

== Safety ==

A well is not an obstructing object. That is to say, it doesn't stop things from passing through it's space. This is why wells can function through other wells, why water will flood out of them, why a (very) few monsters may be able to climb out through them if you're tremendously unlucky, and why dwarves and animals frequently fall in.

=== Flooding ===

More fortresses have fallen at the hands of a flooding well than they have to megabeasts, seiges or demons. If you are going to be shifting water around in any form other than buckets, be prepared for the worst.

There are several solutions to the flooding problem.

1. Overflow Drainage. At the top of a reservoir, dig a tunnel to drain water out the side, and have it dump out into some appropriate sump, like a cavern full of armok-knows-what.

2. Emergency auto-plug. You can make pressure plates sense water. If you set up a pressure plate beside your well, and connect it to a hatch or door blocking your reservoir, it will automatically seal the reservoir off from it's flow source, should the thing flood.

3. No Exits. The safest and easiest way to do it, is to dig out the reservoir, ''but not the opening for the well itself''. This way, you can fill the reservoir completely, and because there's nowhere for it to flood out to, it simply WON'T! Then you can seal off the reservoir at your leisure and dig the opening without concern! (Though not without caution. Make sure you turned the taps off first.)

=== Falling ===

The main problem is that while dwarves will normally walk around random holes in the ground, a well is treated as a "passable" tile. It's what allows them to use the well itself. However, this doesn't stop them from simply walking across it's space and falling through the hole it was built over. And because there's no such thing as buoyancy or water resistance yet, dwarves fall through water at the same rate they would through air. Meaning the deeper your reservoir, the bigger the splatter they make at the bottom. The following are all suggestions which decrease the likelyhood of anyone falling into a well. Keep in mind what you want to use the well for, however. There's little point of making a high value well if nobody will ever see it.

1. Put it somewhere out of the way. If your dwarves don't have any reason to path over it, they won't fall into it.

2. Surround it with restricted traffic control. Then dwarves will be less likely to actually walk over it, even if they do go through that area.

3. Don't make it a meeting hall, or people will throw parties at it, and dwarves don't really care about traffic, when they're on break/partying/nojob, because they aren't trying to find the fastest rout to their task, because they don't have a task. Also, animals like to ignore traffic control.

4. For the same reasons, don't put it ''in'' a meeting hall.

5. Don't put it in a barracks, or around other places where dwarves may be fighting for any reason, as dwarves don't look before they leap.

6. Making a well so it's at the end of a hall, with only one tile dwarves can stand on next to it, will dramatically decrease the chances of anything ever falling in. because then the only reason anything could have to go there, is to use the well, which does not involve standing ON the well.

7. Making a well's reservoir shallow, but wide, is also a good idea, I think. A wider reservoir holds a LOT of water, and takes a LONG time to dry out. If a reservoir is shallow, that means a dwarf will only fall one level or so, which can only cause momentary unconsciousness at the worst. That means your dwarves won't fall down the well, break their leg and drown.

8. Making an escape rout from a well is probably also a good idea.

=== Monsters ===

You don't need to worry too much about monsters crawling out of your well to gobble down your hairy friends these days, but that doesn't mean it's impossible. It all depends on what beasts may be lurking around- and how you build your well.

First off, if you're bucket-filling a well, you need to make sure that their inital water source is safe. Make sure it isn't full of crocodiles or carp. (Or other dangerous fishy things)

If you are draining water through an aqueduct, and you know there may be dangerous animals (Or even just unwanted regular animals) living in it, there is a way to stop them from wandering in. You can place upright bars or fortifications in the aqueduct. These allow water to pass through, but animals cannot. It has been observed that in very rare occasions, animal may be pushed through. If you're that concerned about it (Or have HORDES of angry crocodiles in your river) putting two stoppers in a row pretty much eliminates any chance of this happening.

Even if monsters do get into your well, they're rarely a genuine threat, and at worst can give your dwarves an unhappy thought by scaring them. However, if your reservoir is filled right to the brim, carp and other fish CAN attack your dwarves, just as they would from a river. Also, any amphibious creatures may be able to use an escape passage to make their way into your fortress and make a mess. (Keep in mind, zombified fish are amphibious) And, of course, anyone who falls into a well full of predators is pretty much doomed.

To prevent amphibians from getting out of your well, should they somehow get there, simply put a lockable hatch over the escape rout.

Finally, if you are drawing directly from a flooded cavern, and have simply opened a hole in it's ceiling for the well, any flying creatures in the cavern may be able to use the well as an access point to your fortress. So, though it may be easy, and kinda' cool, it isn't exactly the safest option.

== Above Ground ==

The previous sections focused mostly on subterranean wells and gravity-filling reservoirs. Now we need to consider the special circumstances of wells built at ground level, above ground level, and simply outdoors.

The main problem is that anything above what was ground level at embark is considered "above ground" and has different behavior, even if enclosed to be indoors. In particular, it will freeze and evaporate according to the temperature. This includes everything on level 0 and -1, unless there is something about them preventing the temperature from removing them, like rivers flowing faster than the water can evaporate out of them.

Enclosing the water, so that it is "indoors" will decrease the rate of evaporation, but there isn't much you can do to prevent water from freezing above ground. (There is a way, but if you're new, you may not enjoy the prospects of actually constructing it. See below in style and design.)

=== Outdoor Wells ===

There are plenty of good reasons to build a well outdoors. First and foremost, to be decorative or thematic. The wells don't necessarily need to be functional if this is your intent. But another use would be as a functional source for an outdoor meeting hall... Or in other words, a vomitorium. Because dwarves will clean themselves in a well, having one in such a vomitorium would just make things more efficient!

Of course, as with any outdoor meeting place, you need to be certain that it is a safe place, where goblins and giant eagles are unlikely to descend upon your sickly party-goers.

=== On The Level ===

Now, about ground level, or specifically, the place where "above ground" and "below ground" meet. Z-levels 0 and -1 on flat maps. If you are on a very cold or very hot map, any water open to the sky on these levels will freeze or evaporate very quickly. As said before, you can minimize this by simply roofing in the water and making it "indoors".

Also keep in mind the floor type. Murky pools, even when roofed over, will behave as though they are open to the sky. This is because murky pools, rivers, oceans, etc. all have a special floor tile which modifies the behavior of any water above it. Simply putting floor tiles on the basin of a murky pool can minimize evaporation, but it will eliminate rain refill.

If you dig a channel down to z-2, the water in it will not evaporate very quickly at all, as it's "under ground".

=== In the Sky ===

And now for the final type of well, and this one is very uncommon, you may wish to build a well high above ground. A well tower may indeed be a cool, though completely non-functional idea. Be aware what the environmental conditions are before you do this, of course, as the only real way of dealing with ice involves pumping magma up the tower as well.

In all honesty, a sky well would be built and function pretty much the same as a subterrranean well. The only diference is that it is very difficult to get the water up there. You need to build a pumpstack, lifting the water, level by level, pump by pump, up to your reservoir. And you need to lift the water to the top of your reservoir, as pumps will not pump upward naturally.

== Step by Step ==

A guide explaining the exact processes to go through when building the main well types and their infrastructure.

=== The Well Itself ===

So you're really new, you've read the well page, and you're still a little lost? Well, not to worry! We like our newbies! So we're gonna' show you exactly what needs to be done to just build a well from scratch. Keep in mind that a lot of this can be sped up by buying the materials at embark or from a caravan, rather than making them yourself. This is especially true with the restraint component.

Essentially, the components are: '''Rope | Bucket | Block | Mechanism'''

1. Start digging up stone. You need a dwarf with the miner skill enabled and a pickaxe. You need to dig through stone layers to get stone, as dirt yeilds nothing. The miner will leave rubble behind him. These are your primary building materials.

2. Start chopping down trees. You need a dwarf with the woodcutter skill enabled and a battle axe to do this. Each tree chopped down leaves a log. You'll need this for other components.

3. Set up an underground farm plot and cover it in water. It only needs a dusting of 1/7. Once it's been covered, drain it. It should now be muddy and will allow you to plant things on it. In order to plant seeds and make the farm plot, you'll need a dwarf with the grower skill enabled. Make sure you have pig tail seeds.

4. The pig tail seeds grow into pig tails, which can be processed into thread and turned into ropes for the well. Alternatively, if you run into metal ore, you can make a chain. But that process is even more complex, and there are plenty better uses for chains, so we'll stick with the rope.

5. Now you need a dwarf with the thresher skill enabled and a farmer's workshop set up. Set it to process plants. He will take any available pig tails and turn them into thread.

6. Next you need a weaver and a loom. The weaver will automatically turn thread into fabric at a loom. Yes, you need to make sheets of fabric into ropes, no it doesn't make much sense.

7. Now you need a dwarf with the clothier skill and a clothier's shop. Have the clothier make ropes. He'll use whatever fabric is available to him.

8. Have a mason make a stone block at the mason's workshop.

9. Have a carpenter make a bucket at the carpenter's workshop.

10. Have a mechanic make a mechanism at the mechanic's workshop.

11. Channel out a one-square hole in the ground. This is an example location, to show how a well is to be oriented to actually be built.

12. Build the well. It needs to be placed on the hole. Not in the hole, not above the hole, but directly on it. A well needs at least one adjacent floor tile, and must be built over empty space. Select your block, bucket, mechanism and rope. (Or chain if you went that rout)

13. Once that's done, the well designation will just sit there. You need a dwarf with the architect skill to design it. Once he's done, the appropriate worker will drop in and finish building the thing.

It takes 10 skilled dwarves and 6 workshops to build the base materials for one well from scratch. Of course, all of it's materials can simply be bought, speeding the process up a fair bit. However, keep in mind that all of it's components have value. Value which can be increased. A gem-encrusted masterpiece bucket with a gem encrusted masterpiece platinum chain, with a gem encrusted masterpiece mechanism, with legendary architectural skill and legendary construction, can be of insanely high value. As a result, you can engineer them to artificially increase the value of your fortress very quickly, once you have the infrastructure to do so.

=== Murky Pools ===

The pitfalls of using murky pools directly. We'll show you how to do it right and keep your dwarves smiling.

=== Brooks ===

Brooks are nice. We'll show you why!

=== Rivers ===

Rivers are different from brooks, in that they have things living in them and are a little more dangerous to be around.

=== Oceans ===

This explains the salinity glitch with oceans again, and discusses how to safely draw water from an ocean.

=== Aquifers ===

This section explains why the only thing aquifers are good for, are wells.

=== Flooded Caverns ===

This will discuss different methods of utilizing water from flooded caverns, specifically for the construction of a well, safely.

=== Water Falls ===

If you have a waterfall on your map, you are truly lucky. You can do so many cool things with waterfalls, it's enough to make a dwarf consider crying, just this once, maybe, if nobody's looking. But, here, we'll show some step-by-step ideas for how to use waterfalls to make awesome wells.

=== Reservoirs ===

So, you've decided you need to store water elsewhere, eh? Well, I can't blame you. Here's some discussion about the traits a reservoir can have, how to build them without trapping your dwarves, safety concerns, escape routs, and a discussion on effective filling methods.

=== Bucket Filling ===

This talks about how to go about bucket filling a well, the benefits of doing so, and the problems therein.

=== Aqueducts ===

This talks about how to build several generic aqueducts, drawing from different types of sources. Specifically, gravity-draining above-ground sources and pumping upward from subterranean sources.

=== Drainage ===

This talks about what drains are used for, why you might want them, and then how to build several types of functional drain mechanisms.

== Style and Design ==

This section discusses purely aesthetic and functional decisions people have made in the past with their wells, as well as advanced designs.

=== Fighting the Ice ===

So you have a frozen well, and you want to know how to keep it liquid do ya? You're going to need to build a heated reservoir.

First, have magma on your map. If you don't, dig deeper and be prepared for demons.

Next, you need some magma-safe materials. You'll need this to build floodgates and pumps.

Now, you need to pipe and pump the magma with the magma-safe pumping equipment. Be sure to use mechanical power for these, as dwarves are too likely to kill themselves.

The magma needs to be piped under your reservoir. That is to say, there needs to be just one floor tile between the two, just enough to keep them from touching and turning into an accidental obsidian factory.

The magma needs to be piped around under your water, it needs to keep on moving or the water will freeze again. That means it needs an infinite, cyclical flow.

And even if you get all of this built and working, it will only melt one level. Which means the reservoir can only be 1 level deep.

That's a lot of work to have an above-ground well in a frozen environment. Probably easier to melt a pool and drain it.

=== Ultimate Party Machine ===

It is possible to pour water through the mouth of a well from above. This frequently causes water to spray out in a mist, which pleases dwarves. If you power it, you could have a pump stack draw water from beneath the well and pour it back in from above, turning your fancy meeting hall into a FANCIER meeting hall! Throw in some platinum statues while you're at it.

=== Well Stacking ===

Have you ever needed to have more than one well on multiple z-levels and disliked the work of setting up multiple reservoirs? Well fret no more!

Because a well can function through the opening of another well, it's possible to stack well openings through z-levels! So long as they're all in a perfectly straight line above each other, and there's at least 3/7 tiles of water somewhere directly below them, they will all be perfectly functional!

Of course, if you go too far, this may become something of a safety concern, as dwarves would plummet mile after mile, through dozens of well openings before finally hitting the bottom.

=== Multitasking Wells ===

Because wells aren't actually USED all that often, and are usually more valuable as decorations, there isn't really any reason to keep it's reservoir completely full all the time. So, what can you do with a giant bucket of water in the middle of your fortress? Well, luckily, there are a few other reasons you could have for piping water around.

First, you need to "irrigate" underground floors before you can actually farm on them. Instead of making a separate, elaborate irrigation system for just one use, (To my knowledge, mud doesn't dry) why not just drain it out of your well?

You could also use your well as a water reservoir for an obsidian factory. Fill a chamber with a single layer of magma, then pour your well's contents over it!

You could use your well to dispose of unwanted life forms, such as siegers, elves, goblins, nobles and other miscellaneous things that wandered into your cage traps. (This only works on non-amphibious creatures)

=== The Dwarven Toilet ===

I built this in an experiment. At the top of the reservoir is a platform with a pressure plate on it. When the pressure plate senses 5/7 water, it triggers, closing the fill pipe, and opening the drain. So, when you pull the lever to fill the thing, it fills up to the top, then drains. Just like a giant toilet. I have not found any functional use for this. In all honesty, it was a simple accident I made, connecting the pressure plate to the drain as well as the plug. But, hey, what the heck, I made a giant toilet. There ya' go. Perhaps you could use this to get rid of the crud that accumulates in a well as dwarves clean themselves in it?

v0.31:Well

2010-12-03T06:34:21Z

RadGH: /* Building a well */

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional}}

'''Wells''' are structures that provide access to a water source for your dwarves. A well can be an important feature of a fortress, providing a clean and usually safe water supply compared to rivers, pools and cavern lakes.

Wells provide an emergency drinking source in case the alcohol runs out (don't let that happen!). A well is a water source that (if constructed correctly) will not freeze in the coldest weather, and should last in hot. Water from a well will still be considered stagnant unless the contaminants are removed with a grate{{verify}}. Build a wall grate into your inlet to remove contaminants. Enemies that can swim can and will path into your fort through a well. Grates will not stop building destroyers.

A well constructed above-ground, even indoors, will not prevent the water tile beneath it from freezing. When this happens, the "empty space" requirement for the well is no longer met as the space is occupied by the ice, and the well will be dismantled into its original components. Using the well (10 times) will take a small amount of water from the water tile below (1/7 from that one tile), so it will eventually dry up if not replenished. A well can be defined as a meeting area with the q key. Un-defining the meeting area will break up any party that is currently formed around a well, and it can immediately be re-defined if you wish.

Using a well provides that dwarf with a happy thought, especially if you make the well with high-quality chains and buckets, or the building designer produces a high quality result. Drinking stagnant water from a well will still lead to a bad thought. Badly wounded dwarves will drink only water while recuperating, never booze, so you better have a well or water zone ready for when anyone gets injured, and certainly before the first goblins show up. Ensure you have enough buckets as well, injured dwarfs will not go to the well themselves even if it is next to their hospital bed, but require someone to bring them water in a bucket. Dwarfs can (and will) fish from a well if that labor is designated. This does not harm the well.

Dwarves will use the well to wash themselves. This means that if dwarves are exposed to [[contaminant]]s such as blood, it may accumulate around your well. Deadly contaminants from Forgotten Beasts can and will accumulate around your wells, too. Wells in highly trafficked areas can become death traps this way, quickly spreading the syndrome to your entire fort. One approach to decontamination is to build wells off the beaten path, in a nook limiting access to one tile, and placing a drawbridge atom smasher over that tile. Whenever a dwarf leaves a mess by a well, lock the access doors and smash that mess with a bridge. Another approach involves flooding the area around the well and draining the excess water off screen somehow. Removing the contaminants from the map is the only sure way to deal with them permanently and stop them from killing your FPS, and your dwarfs if they are deadly.

==Building a well==
When constructing a well, it is important to consider placement, safety, the source of the water, and any {{L|water pressure}} to avoid flooding your fortress by accident. For a wider discussion of adding a well to your fortress, see the (recommended) {{L|well guide}}.

Wells must have a clear vertical pathway straight down to their water source. That source can be an artificial channel, an [[aquifer]], a [[river]], a [[brook]], a [[lake]], or an artificial [[reservoir]], so long as it has water in it that's at least 3/7 deep. The water can be any distance directly below the well. If there is 7/7 deep water somewhere directly below the well, then the depth of the top tile of this water does not matter.[[Image:Well_illustration.png|right|thumb|154px|Wells must be built over the water, though they can be many levels higher than the water.]]

The more common well will be created underground and draw water from a source even lower, but above-ground sources can also be used; you just have to build constructions first (typically up-stairs, walls and floors) that provide support at least one z-level ''above'' the water's level where you can then place the well.

To build a well you will need the following components:
:* 1 {{L|block}}
:* 1 {{L|bucket}}
:* 1 {{L|chain}} or 1 {{L|rope}}
:* 1 {{L|mechanism}}
:* an 'open space' tile (usually channeled by you) to place the well on

To place a well, press the {{k|b}}, {{k|l}} keys. That will take you through the various components, and you can choose specifically from among the parts you have available in each category. A well needs to be placed over an open space with adjacent floor tiles, there does not need to be water underneath a well for it to be built, only for it to be active.

It requires a dwarf with the {{L|architecture}} {{L|labor}} designated to design, and then a {{L|mason}}/{{L|carpenter}}/{{L|metalsmith}} to finish the construction. Because it's designed, high-value materials can be multiplied by a high-quality effort on the part of either or both the steps involved, and can result in an extremely valuable piece of architecture for your fortress.

If a well is working properly, meaning it has direct access to water, it will display "active" when examined with {{k|q}}. If there is something obstructing the well, or there is not enough water, it will display "dry". If the well is flooding, it will display "bucket is full of water".

While in use by a dwarf, you can see the actual rope and bucket travel through the z-level. Although interesting, if your water source is very deep it may take awhile for a single dwarf to obtain his or her ration of water. This becomes especially annoying if you do not have a steady booze supply, as thirsty dwarves will swarm the well awaiting their turn.

It is possible to build wells directly above one another, and they will still function if there is water below, they will not obstruct one another, as they are not impassible structures, as evidenced by dwarves falling in. Hatches, floor bars and floor grates will block well functionality, if they are between it and the water, but grates and bars will not stop water from flooding out. Grates, bars and hatches will allow functionality again if opened with a lever. It is perfectly reasonable to have multiple well openings drawing from a single water source, as a well only cares about the tile in a straight line below it. Wells cannot function through a stairwell. It is possible to have obstacles beneath a well, with the well continuing to function, if the surface of the water is above the obstacles.

==Removal==
When removing a well, the components will generally be scattered around the channeled tile, not fall down into the well. One exception is when the bucket is stuck somewhere on the way down which probably happens when a water hauling job is interrupted by a hostile creature. In this case the bucket will drop down into the water source, but the rope, block and mechanism are saved.

{{buildings}}

v0.31:Well

2010-12-03T06:30:22Z

RadGH: /* Building a well */

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional}}

'''Wells''' are structures that provide access to a water source for your dwarves. A well can be an important feature of a fortress, providing a clean and usually safe water supply compared to rivers, pools and cavern lakes.

Wells provide an emergency drinking source in case the alcohol runs out (don't let that happen!). A well is a water source that (if constructed correctly) will not freeze in the coldest weather, and should last in hot. Water from a well will still be considered stagnant unless the contaminants are removed with a grate{{verify}}. Build a wall grate into your inlet to remove contaminants. Enemies that can swim can and will path into your fort through a well. Grates will not stop building destroyers.

A well constructed above-ground, even indoors, will not prevent the water tile beneath it from freezing. When this happens, the "empty space" requirement for the well is no longer met as the space is occupied by the ice, and the well will be dismantled into its original components. Using the well (10 times) will take a small amount of water from the water tile below (1/7 from that one tile), so it will eventually dry up if not replenished. A well can be defined as a meeting area with the q key. Un-defining the meeting area will break up any party that is currently formed around a well, and it can immediately be re-defined if you wish.

Using a well provides that dwarf with a happy thought, especially if you make the well with high-quality chains and buckets, or the building designer produces a high quality result. Drinking stagnant water from a well will still lead to a bad thought. Badly wounded dwarves will drink only water while recuperating, never booze, so you better have a well or water zone ready for when anyone gets injured, and certainly before the first goblins show up. Ensure you have enough buckets as well, injured dwarfs will not go to the well themselves even if it is next to their hospital bed, but require someone to bring them water in a bucket. Dwarfs can (and will) fish from a well if that labor is designated. This does not harm the well.

Dwarves will use the well to wash themselves. This means that if dwarves are exposed to [[contaminant]]s such as blood, it may accumulate around your well. Deadly contaminants from Forgotten Beasts can and will accumulate around your wells, too. Wells in highly trafficked areas can become death traps this way, quickly spreading the syndrome to your entire fort. One approach to decontamination is to build wells off the beaten path, in a nook limiting access to one tile, and placing a drawbridge atom smasher over that tile. Whenever a dwarf leaves a mess by a well, lock the access doors and smash that mess with a bridge. Another approach involves flooding the area around the well and draining the excess water off screen somehow. Removing the contaminants from the map is the only sure way to deal with them permanently and stop them from killing your FPS, and your dwarfs if they are deadly.

==Building a well==
When constructing a well, it is important to consider placement, safety, the source of the water, and any {{L|water pressure}} to avoid flooding your fortress by accident. For a wider discussion of adding a well to your fortress, see the (recommended) {{L|well guide}}.

Wells must have a clear vertical pathway straight down to their water source. That source can be an artificial channel, an [[aquifer]], a [[river]], a [[brook]], a [[lake]], or an artificial [[reservoir]], so long as it has water in it that's at least 3/7 deep. The water can be any distance directly below the well. If there is 7/7 deep water somewhere directly below the well, then the depth of the top tile of this water does not matter.[[Image:Well_illustration.png|right|thumb|154px|Wells must be built over the water, though they can be many levels higher than the water.]]

The more common well will be created underground and draw water from a source even lower, but above-ground sources can also be used; you just have to build constructions first (typically up-stairs, walls and floors) that provide support at least one z-level ''above'' the water's level where you can then place the well.

To build a well you will need the following components:
:* 1 {{L|block}}
:* 1 {{L|bucket}}
:* 1 {{L|chain}} or 1 {{L|rope}}
:* 1 {{L|mechanism}}
:* an 'open space' tile (usually channeled by you) to place the well on

To place a well, press the {{k|b}}, {{k|l}} keys. That will take you through the various components, and you can choose specifically from among the parts you have available in each category. A well needs to be placed over an open space with adjacent floor tiles, there does not need to be water underneath a well for it to be built, only for it to be active.

It requires a dwarf with the {{L|architecture}} {{L|labor}} designated to design, and then a {{L|mason}}/{{L|carpenter}}/{{L|metalsmith}} to finish the construction. Because it's designed, high-value materials can be multiplied by a high-quality effort on the part of either or both the steps involved, and can result in an extremely valuable piece of architecture for your fortress.

If a well is working properly, meaning it has direct access to water, it will display "active" when examined with {{k|q}}. If there is something obstructing the well, or there is not enough water, it will display "dry". If the well is flooding, it will display "bucket is full of water".

While in use by a dwarf, you can see the actual rope and bucket travel through the z-levels. Nifty!

It is possible to build wells directly above one another, and they will still function if there is water below, they will not obstruct one another, as they are not impassible structures, as evidenced by dwarves falling in. Hatches, floor bars and floor grates will block well functionality, if they are between it and the water, but grates and bars will not stop water from flooding out. Grates, bars and hatches will allow functionality again if opened with a lever. It is perfectly reasonable to have multiple well openings drawing from a single water source, as a well only cares about the tile in a straight line below it. Wells cannot function through a stairwell. It is possible to have obstacles beneath a well, with the well continuing to function, if the surface of the water is above the obstacles.

==Removal==
When removing a well, the components will generally be scattered around the channeled tile, not fall down into the well. One exception is when the bucket is stuck somewhere on the way down which probably happens when a water hauling job is interrupted by a hostile creature. In this case the bucket will drop down into the water source, but the rope, block and mechanism are saved.

{{buildings}}

v0.31:Embark

2010-12-03T01:04:01Z

RadGH: /* Skill Sets */

{{av}}
{{Quality|Exceptional}}

'''Embark''' is the moment at the very beginning of the game, before actual game play begins (but after {{L|World generation|generating a world}}), when you and your initial 7 dwarves:
# Choose a site.
# Assign starting {{L|skill|skills}} to each dwarf.
# Select an initial load of {{L|supplies|supplies and equipment}}.
# Arrive at the site with your wagon full of supplies.

= Choosing a Site =
The process of choosing a site in DF2010 is much less involved than prior versions due to the ubiquitous presence of magma, gems, and ore, but that said there are still several considerations to keep in mind, namely aquifers, ore types, wood, climate, and neighbors.
There is just ONE BIG RULE: when your home civ is too small, you will first recognize after the 2nd winter that you won't get more immigrants, which can be [[Fun|extremely fun]]. Your home civilization will need more than one dwarven place on the map.

[[File:Embark.jpg]] 
The Choose Fortress Location screen shows four separate sections, with three of them being three views of the land at three different levels of magnification: Local, Region, and World. A section of highlighted tiles in the Local view indicates the current embark location within the region. The local view constitutes a 16x16 grid of embark area tiles (each representing 48x48 tiles when you are playing the game) that is within a single region tile. The world map cannot be directly controlled, and exists only to give you the overall view of where, relative to the rest of the features of the world, the region map is focused on.

The arrow keys control the X cursor in the center "Region" view while {{K|u}}, {{K|m}}, {{K|k}}, and {{K|h}} move the embark location around within the Local view. {{K|Shift}}-{{K|u}}, {{K|m}}, {{K|k}}, and {{K|h}} will resize the embark location.

The size of the embark location directly affects how much data about a map the game will have to store in your computer's memory, the size of your save files, and correspondingly, will dramatically affect the save and load times for your map, potentially make pathfinding more resource-intensive, and may generally slow your game down. As such, smaller maps are recommended, especially for less powerful computers. Remember that each tile on your embark screen is 48x48 tiles large.

On the far right of the screen is a list of local features in the dominant biome. Individual biomes, which form at least one map-tile of your embark location, can be cycled with the {{Key|F#}}-keys; for example, an area with 3 biomes present can be cycled using {{Key|F1}}, {{Key|F2}} and {{Key|F3}}. The selected biome will be highlighted with flashing Xs on the Local Map, and the biome's information will be displayed on the right side of the screen. The list at the bottom of the biome information indicates the dominant soil/stone composition from top to bottom for the first eight layers.

== Biomes ==
Main article: {{L|Biome|biome}}

A '''biome''' is a biotic area with homogeneous features, characterized by distinctive {{L|plant|plants}}, {{L|creatures|animal species}} and {{L|climate|climate}}.

In the above image, the biome is "Temperate Broadleaf Forest", and the region the biome is part of is given a specific name: "The Oily Forest".

Biomes will also contain only one set of stone layers, though these usually expand beyond a single biome. Your {{L|dwarves|dwarves}} will find different resources depending on which biomes they select when starting a fort.

Biomes are important when choosing a fortress location in order to understand your {{L|surroundings|surroundings}}.

=== Climate ===
Main article: {{L|climate|climate}}

Climate determines the maximum temperature range of the region, which in turn impacts the severity of exposure to the outside, whether water will freeze in winter, and how quickly water evaporates.

The climate is displayed as "Temperature: Hot" in the above image.

Very hot and very cold biomes bring their own challenges which may be further compounded with overlapping features, such as a glacier being frozen for half the year, and being devoid of trees, and lacking a river. Very hot climates may see all its surface water quickly evaporate, making finding a water supply more dangerous, as underground caves filled with hostile creatures may be the only supply of water.

=== Plant Life ===
Main article: {{L|Tree|trees}} and {{L|Shrub|shrubs}}

Seen in the above image as "Trees: Heavily Forested" and "Other Vegetation: Thick".

Trees are useful for the {{L|wood}} they provide, and wood is a basic building material, important for being the only material that beds can be made of, and, as metal bins and barrels require three times as much of less common metal resources as wood bins and barrels do, they are preferred materials for that, as well. Wood is also a renewable source for {{L|charcoal}}, the {{L|fuel}} used in forges to make metal products in smelters or forges that are not magma-powered, and is needed to make steel even when you have magma forges. Wood is finally also useful in making {{L|potash}} for soap or fertilizing farms.

In spite of wood's many uses, it is entirely possible to play in this version without any trees in your biomes, as trees can be farmed in muddied underground areas regardless of how barren the surface is. Due to the inexpensive nature of wood, it is possible to simply embark with enough wood to last until you are ready to set up tree farming operations underground. Wood is also a common good that elves, humans, and dwarves alike will sell to you.

Shrubs can provide some quick food through the {{L|herbalism}} skill, {{L|still|brewable materials}}, and {{L|seeds}} for some very helpful above-ground {{L|Crops|crops}} which are generally only available through trading with Elves.

=== Surroundings ===
Main article: {{L|surroundings}}

Surroundings affect how powerful and hostile local wildlife will be, and some forms of plants are available only in specific types of surroundings.

The surroundings of the example image are listed as, "Surroundings: Calm".

Any biome can have any set of surroundings; for example a glacier could be haunted, wilderness or mirthful. However, a named region (which is a contiguous area of one category of biomes, such as forests or wetlands) will be either good, neutral, or evil.

There are two axis for surroundings: Savagery and alignment. Calm and neutral savagery are functionally identical. Savage lands are like normal lands, except they will frequently have giant or hostile humanoid versions of normal animals, for example you might have a {{L|Tigerman}} instead of "merely" a {{L|tiger}} in a savage jungle.

Good biomes are similar to neutral biomes, except have more fanciful (and generally benign) creatures like {{L|pixie}}s, {{L|fluffy wambler}}s, or {{L|unicorn}}s, and are generally no more dangerous than neutral biomes. Evil biomes are home to many dangerous creatures, often dead vegetation and even including undead versions of normal creatures, making for a far more hostile environment specifically for players who want to face a greater challenge to stay alive, especially early on. Trees might not grow in an evil area.

It is possible to start a fortress that overlaps multiple alignment types (for example good, evil, savage, and benign). Some players consider this desirable, as it provides diversity in your little corner of the world, but it also has its dangers in the form of more ferocious wildlife.

=== Layers ===
Main articles: {{L|Layer}}, {{L|Ore|ore}} and {{L|Stone|stone}}

At the bottom right of the biome view is the data on stone layers, displaying the top eight layers of stone or soil.

Each type of layer stone has certain kinds of ores, gems, and other minerals that will appear within that form of layer. Layers are color-coded by the type of rock they are, with brown indicating {{L|soil}} (useless for raw materials, but easy to dig through), white indicating a {{L|metamorphic layer}} (good for gems, coal, and steel production), light grey indicating a {{L|sedimentary layer}} (indispensable for producing {{L|steel}}), and dark grey indicating either an {{L|igneous extrusive layer}} or an {{L|igneous intrusive layer}} (which may indicate magma pools in the caverns, as well as being good for various metal ores). Igneous layers will never be found in the same biome as sedimentary layers, but it is possible to have both in the same map by embarking over two or more different biomes.

It is very difficult to produce {{L|steel}} without a [[sedimentary layer]]. ([[Steel]] makes nearly the [[Metal#Weapon_.26_Armor_Quality|best weapons and armor]], and the materials are fairly easy to acquire if you have sedimentary layers.) For steel, ideally, look for a site with [[chalk]], [[limestone]], or [[dolomite]], which are not only sedimentary stones, but [[flux]] stones as well. Any site showing some sedimentary stone should contain all of the necessary ingredients, however.

To forge [[steel]], you will need [[iron]] ore, [[flux]] stone, and [[fuel]]. The three ores of [[iron]] (hematite, magnetite, and limonite) can only be found in sedimentary layers, with the exception of hematite, which can occasionally be found in [[igneous extrusive]] layers. Furthermore, four of the five [[flux]] stones (calcite, chalk, dolomite, and limestone) are also only found in sedimentary layers, as well as both [[coal]] ores (bituminous coal and lignite) for making [[coke]] fuel.

If you have no sedimentary layers, your only hope to make steel is with:
* hematite in [[igneous extrusive]] layers
* marble in [[metamorphic]] layers
* wood for making [[charcoal]] fuel
Even if you find and exploit magma for your furnaces, you'll still need the fuel in the smelting process, so you'll be cutting down two trees and burning them to make charcoal for every unit of hematite you are lucky enough to find.

=== Aquifer ===
Main article: {{L|aquifer}}

An aquifer is a layer of soil or stone saturated with water, and a biome may contain upwards of 3 aquifer layers (theoretically more, but such would be rare to say the least). These are represented with ≈≈≈≈≈ symbols in the soil layers. Embarking on an aquifer brings up a warning before embark as an aquifer can significantly raise the difficulty of starting a fort. For specific tactics on working with an aquifer see the main page.

== Changing Views ==
Pressing {{K|Tab}} will cycle the presented information through a variety of different views and panels.
*Neighbors - other civilizations that are closest to your current location. Proximity increases the chance of interaction, though at present this largely means "nearby goblins are more likely to attack you." If any race is not represented on this page, it means that the civilization cannot reach you if you are in that location. Embarking on an {{l|island}}, or a location completely surrounded by mountains will make it impossible for any civilization but your own dwarven civilization to reach you, as world map travel across oceans or mountains is impossible. If not even "Dwarves" appears, it means that your home civilization is dead, and there will be no {{l|migrants}} or {{l|trade}} with your home civilization. (If this is the case, it is recommended you change to a still-existent civilization unless you want the challenge of having no support from the mountainhomes.) Races that are hostile to you are represented by a series of red "-" marks. In vanilla DF, goblins are always hostile, but humans or elves may also be at war with particular dwarven civilizations (and if you choose your starting civilization in the "Your Civilization" screen, they may not be at war with you).
*Your Civilization - indicates all Dwarven civilizations in the world. {{K|*}} and {{K|-}} will cycle through the civilizations allowing you to choose which your settlers will be embarking from. It may be worth looking at your choice of starting civilizations in {{l|Legends}} Mode before embarking, as there is much information about your civilization that is not shown directly at embark, and there is no way short of abandoning a fort to change your civilization once you have embarked. Civilization choice will affect who is at war with you, what goods are available for trade (Dwarven caravans will only have the goods in the region of the city that is trading with your fort. These will be the same goods that are available for you to purchase at embark. Metals or stones, for example, that are not available for you to purchase in the "Prepare Carefully" screen will never be available for trade with the dwarven caravan.), who your regent will be (considering [[Cacame_Awemedinade|one might be surprised by who turns out to be one's regent]], this might be of note, but is only viewable in Legends Mode), and if there are any surviving members of your civilization left to migrate to or trade with your fort.
*Relative Elevation - Shows the land height relative to the lowest point in the region.
*Cliff Indicator - Shows the severity of cliffs. Unless you have turned erosion off, then, with the exception of rivers that cut through mountains, even apparently very steep cliffs will still have ramps that make it perfectly accessible for any creature or even the wagons in caravans.

== Reclaiming a fortress ==

If you reclaim the site of an abandoned fortress you may see goods, materials, and corpses left from the previous effort. These items will initially be [[forbid|forbidden]] and you will have to [[reclaim]] them before your dwarves will acknowledge their existence, for example to haul them to a graveyard or refuse [[stockpile]].

= Creating Your Settlers =

== Play Now! ==
You can forgo the process of assigning skills and supplies and instead select '''Play Now!''' This option will give you a selection of Dwarves with the following profiles:

Updated for 0.31.13:
* Miner: Adequate Miner
* Woodworker: Novice Carpenter, Bowyer
* Woodcutter: Novice Wood Cutter, Brewer, Cook, Grower, Herbalist, Furnace Operator, Wood Burner, Lye Maker, Potash Maker
* Stoneworker: Novice Engraver, Mason, Mechanic, Building Designer
* Jeweler: Novice Gem Cutter, Gem Setter, Wood Crafter, Stone Crafter, and Bone Crafter
* Fisherdwarf: Novice Fisherdwarf
* Fish Cleaner: Novice Fish Cleaner, Butcher, Tanner, Weaver, Clothier, and Leatherworker

One of these will be randomly flagged as Expedition Leader at the start.

From 0.31.12: The default embark value for a custom embark is 1274: 974 in pre-chosen goods and 300 unassigned. The Play Now! embark only uses 1038 points. While a Play Now! embark is no more doomed than any other embark, it is always better to Prepare Carefully once you know what you're doing with the set up of an early fort since Novice Butcher is hardly better than a Dwarf you manually flagged for the job. The only good reason is if you really want the Super Doctor, given the hazards of learning medical skills on-the-job.

Note: In 0.31.13, you no longer embark with any medical skills.

== Prepare Carefully ==
Preparing allows the player to customize their embarking party and supplies by spending a pool of points which is shared between skills and equipment, with each skill rank and equipment item having a set value. The total value of embarking is set at 1,274 points, though all but 300 of these are pre-spent on an array of basic equipment (the same equipment Play Now! uses.) It stands that one should try to maximize the value of their embark by spending all available points.

=== Skills ===
Main article: {{L|Skills|skills}}

The seven settlers you begin with can be assigned up to ten skill ranks picked from the entire Dwarven skill list, including military, though only a maximum of 5 ranks (giving them a rank of "Proficient") can be bought in any one skill. Skill ranks are bought from the shared pool at a cost of 5 for the first rank, 6 for the second, 7 for the third, and so on. Maxing out a skill thus costs a total of 35 points. Although this is already fairly involved, between the long skill list and the floating cost, the value of a rank is subject to further scrutiny given the early-game value, or lack thereof, of certain skills as well as the relative ease or difficulty of training ranks in a given skill. Many skills are performed just as well (or with little functional difference) by a Novice or even a Dabbler as they are by a Legendary. A Novice Furnace Operator won't produce Coke as fast as a Legendary Furnace Operator, but they will produce it fast enough to keep their neighbor smelting hematite until the cows come home.

For a more complex example, there is much overlap between what can be produced out of wood and what can be produced out of metal, but wood is plentiful in the early game (often throughout if a tree farm is established, and caravans will bring in several pages worth of wood if you request it) while metalworking can take much longer to establish, or would take several times longer to produce a given product in early game due to the multiple steps required, especially without a magma smelter. Metalworking also skills up slower than woodworking and metal products have a longer base production time than wood products.

From one point of view, the Woodworking skills would be of more immediate use in producing quick goods of higher value in the early game, especially given the high volume needed; however furniture quality is of little concern in the early game, and the high volume of value-independent goods (such as barrels which you won't be trading away on their own or using to furnish chambers) will cause your carpenter to skill up fairly quickly. Even on a strictly functional level even a Novice carpenter can produce beds, barrels, and bins fast enough to keep up with a fledgling base. Lastly, once metal production is up and running, it can be agonizingly slow if a Farmer or Peasant has to be re-assigned to learn from scratch, thus a proficient Metalsmith stands to pay off much more in time than starting with a proficient Carpenter.

=== Supplies ===

The default array of supplies covers a broad range of foodstuffs, seeds, drink, tools, and medical equipment, and is reasonable, though extra food and drink never hurt anyone.
:* 2 Copper {{l|pick}}s
:* 2 Copper battle {{l|axe}}s
:* 1 Iron {{l|anvil}}
:* 60 units alcohol (20 each of 3 random types1, 12 free barrels)
:* 6 bags containing 5x dimple cup, cave wheat, plump helmet, sweet pods, pig tail, and quarry bush {{l|seed}}s
:* 15 units of meat (one random type, 10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 15 units of fish (one random type, 10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 15 units of plump helmets (10 + 5 units in 2 barrels)
:* 5 pig tail fiber thread
:* 5 pig tail fiber cloth
:* 5 pig tail fiber bags
:* 3 pig tail fiber ropes
:* 3 wooden buckets
:* 3 wooden splints
:* 3 wooden crutches
:* 2 dogs (random sex)
:* 2 cats (random sex)
:* 1 random cow/ox/mule/horse (random sex)

Lower forest embark sites should definitely consider bringing extra logs to cover the early demand for beds, &c. Also do not overlook the value of bringing animals. Dogs in particular can provide an excellent early warning system, good fighters against kobolds and other thieves, and a healthy supply of meat and bones.

== Embark Strategies ==
The strategies below are suggestions. They are not universal, and many are even contradictory. This is because there is no One True Way to play Dwarf Fortress. Some may not work for you because of unstated assumptions about priority, value, fun, or procedure. However, since Losing is Fun, it's always worth it to try something out, even if it doesn't go well.

=== Picking the Right Location ===

'''Need More Dirt (and Its Inverse)''' - three layers of soil before the stone layers begin provides a very large area that can be used to quickly carve out efficient storage rooms and large tree farms of the colorful underground trees without the need to flood/muddy large areas of stone. Remember, the embark screen only lists the first eight layers, and the total number of layers is highly random. More dirt does not necessarily mean less stone.

'''Flowing Water (and Its Inverse)''' - flowing water (river or stream) is a must have for the infinite power it supplies for working machinery and because underground water supplies are too dangerous to tap into. There is no guarantee of infinite water underground, you could embark on a map with completely dry caverns. However, rainier climates will always have murky pools, which with careful management can be refilled from the rain. Infinite power for working machinery can be created using a limited amount of water in a perpetual motion machine. Although, being limited in quantity, murky pools simply do not have the capacity to permanently flood your fortress, while a single mistake with an infinite source can easily do so.

=== Preparation Strategies ===

'''Free Barrels''' - many products are stored in bins, barrels, or bags and do not stack with other items even if they're in the same broad classification. Plump Helmets and Horse Meat come in separate barrels even though they're both food. Purchasing a single item of food (or increasing the number to one above the storage limit of the barrel i.e. 11, 21, 31) will also produce a free barrel for it to be stored in. As barrels have a cost of 10 to buy empty, buying a single unit of cost 2 foodstuffs gets you a value of 5. Anything above cost 2 bought for the express purpose of getting barrels would be better off just buying barrels empty or raw logs. This concept can be extended to many different goods, and for any stored good you were "going to buy anyway" you should avoid buying exactly a containerful. Do not get 20, get 21.
* Note that meat products from the same animal will store in the same barrel, thus 1 unit of Horse Meat and 1 unit of Horse Tripe will only get you one barrel, not two.

'''Cheap Bags''' - while even the cheapest bags (made from cave spider silk and low-value leather) cost 10 points each, you can instead simply bring several units of {{L|sand}} costing 1 point each, as each unit of sand will be stored in its own bag made from a randomly selected material (including giant cave spider silk and valuable creature leather).

'''Don't Really Need That''' - unless you have tailored your embark for metal production quick and early, an anvil is typically unnecessary and the 100 points you get from refunding it can be better spent on skills or additional foodstuffs (can't really have enough foodstuffs). By the time the Dwarven caravan arrives in the fall, a 100☼ iron anvil, or even a 300☼ steel anvil, should be little more than an inconvenience. This can sometimes be problematic if you are unlucky and the caravan does not bring an anvil.

'''REALLY Don't Need That''' - For players more familiar with the game. Bring no pre-constructed goods (weapons, buckets, etc.), just the materials to make them with. This requires several (3-10, though you're likely to bring way more) logs, some fire-safe stone, some bars of copper, and an anvil. Upon arrival, build a Wood Furnace and a Forge, make charcoal, then picks for the {{L|miner}}s and an axe for {{L|wood cutter}}s. Medical supplies should be unnecessary to start with, because if you need them you're screwed. You may want to bring some rope along though.

'''Yes, I Do Need That''' - never leave without alcohol unless you bring a dedicated {{L|herbalist|plant gatherer}}/{{L|brewer}}.

=== Skill Sets ===
Here are some sample skill distribution sets.

'''Ashery'''
*Military: 5 armor use, 5 dodge. Possibly a mix of dodge and shield use instead of max dodge, but that's up in the air. Set to start training the moment goods are hauled inside the fort's entrance. Also does woodcutting as needed.
*Doctor/Leader: 1 appraise, 2 diagnose, 2 bone doctor, 2 surgeon, 2 wound dresser, 1 suture. Also serves as one of my primary miners and, once replacement miners come, the fort's first bookkeeper as well.
*Farmer/Cook: 4 farming, 5 cooking, 1 armorsmith. Does most of the early hauling grunt work, but eventually is restricted only to food related activities. No mining is done in order to keep armorsmithing as the highest moodable skill.
*Farmer/Brewer: 4 farming, 5 brewing, 1 armorsmith. Same as the cook.
*Weapon/Armorsmith: 5 armorsmith, 5 weaponsmith. Does a sizable amount of the early mining, but is removed from duty before the mining skill gets too high.
*Mason: 5 mason, 5 building design. Can help out with mining if necessary, but is usually busy constructing buildings or helping the farmers haul goods.
*Carpenter/Mechanic: 5 carpentry, 5 mechanic. An odd mix, but mechanisms are my primary export.

'''Tarran'''
*(every skill has five points put into it)
*2 miners/engravers (when they are not mining they are engraving)
*1 mason/carpenter (deals with all that stuff)
*1 mechanic/stonecrafter (when he is not making mechanisms he is making crafts)
*1 woodcutter/architect (when not cutting wood he is designing buildings)
*1 grower/brewer (deals with all my needs this early in the game)
*1 adequate armorsmith, weaponsmith, and metalcrafter. novice furnace operator, and wood burner (remove wood burner if you have magma)

'''Ancient Enemy'''
*Leader with all his points distributed through negotiation/bookkeeper/appraiser/etc.
*3 dwarves with proficient mining
*1 proficient grower
*1 proficient brewer
*1 proficient cook

'''Proteus'''
*Leader/Miner: 6-7 points into things important to become leader and broker (appraisal, negotiation, judge of intent, organizing and others, all at least with 1 pt), rest into mining
*Doc/Recordkeeper +at least another productive job: 1-2pts into diagnostics, 1pt in each other medical skill, 1pt in recordkeeping, rest into 1-2 jobs
*Cook: 4-5pts in cooking, 2-4pts in brewing, rest in fish cleaning and butchery
*Farmer: around 3-4pts in Growing, at least 1pt in milling, plant processing and brewing
*Crafter: Usually 5pts in stone crafting, rest in other crafting jobs (although that might change, as now bone carving has become next to worthless)
*Clothier: 2-4pts in leatherworking and clothier, rest into weaving and tanning
*Builder: Most of his points into Masonry, Engraving and Mechanics, as well as a few points into Carpenter (if no other dwarf already has pts in this job)

'''Cronus'''
*Miners/Mechanics: 2 dwarfs with max points in mining and mechanics; get the fort, then those traps, up quickly.
*Woodcutter/Carpenter: points in woodcutting and carpentry; chop during initial dig then start pumping out beds and barrels
*Farmer/Brewer: points in farming and brewing; get the wheat and helmets in and brew during the off-season. Can also serve as butcher in a pinch.
*Crafter: points dispersed into stonecrafting, bonecarving, weaving, and leatherworking.
*Mason/Architect: points into masonry and building design. Allows a focus on walls, doors, and bridges.
*Leader/Trader: spread points among appraisal, negotiator, conversationalist, consoler, and comedian.

= See Also =
*New players may find the [[Quickstart guide]] useful.
*The [[Starting build|Starting Build]] article has more detailed embark strategies.